Of all the ways to propagate dahlias, cuttings - the most productive. If all the rules are followed, 40-50 independent plants can be obtained from one tuber. What advantages and disadvantages does the method have, when and how to do cuttings, read in this review.
What is the cutting method?
Propagation of dahlia by cuttings is used when you need to get as many new plants as possible, for example, when planting a flower bed for cutting, rejuvenating old tubers, breeding a rare variety, or in the event of the death of most of the planting material during wintering.
The essence of the method is to plant tubers in winter or in early spring at home, followed by cutting off young shoots and rooting them. The method is not the easiest and rather time consuming, so it is not suitable for everyone. In addition, plants will need to create comfortable conditions and provide additional lighting.
Advantages and disadvantages of propagation by cuttings
The most common and easiest way to obtain new plant specimens is by dividing the tuber. But many gardeners prefer cuttings, since this method has a number of advantages over the tuberous method:
Dahlias obtained by cuttings bloom faster than those propagated by other methods, since they germinate and take root in March.
It is enough to purchase one tuber to receive several dozen flowering bushes in the same season.
When germinating tubers at home, you can identify diseased plants and remove them before planting in the garden.
The sprouts are planted already strong and better resistant to pests.
A tuber planted in the soil in the spring can rot from excess moisture and destroy the entire plant. The root system of cuttings without tubers is less likely to rot. 95-97% of all young specimens survive.
Some types of dahlias grow new tubers very slowly, which leads to aging and degeneration of the variety. In this case, the only way to preserve the characteristics is cuttings.
Cuttings produce plants with larger, healthier flowers and stems.
The method is not ideal; in addition to the fact that it takes a long time, it also has other disadvantages. By the end of the season, only small tubers have time to grow and in small quantities, but they are quite suitable for storage and planting. next year. A young cutting damaged mechanically or by pests will most likely die, whereas new shoots would grow on the tuber from dormant buds. During rooting in small pots, root system the cuttings become intertwined, which can cause the formation of twisted tubers. To propagate dahlias using this method, you will need a large space, many containers and equipment.
Even with these shortcomings, most professional gardeners accept cuttings the best way, allowing you to receive in the same year beautiful flowers, with pronounced varietal characteristics. For example, cuttings according to the method of Marina Chernoivanova- a famous florist - provides early, abundant flowering and the ability to cut buds to create bouquets.
Instructions for propagating dahlias by cuttings
Tubers should be prepared for cuttings in the fall. You need to remove the remaining soil from them, treat them with a solution of potassium permanganate, cut off the rotten parts, old tubers and long roots. Then store for short-term storage in a cool, dry place, such as a cellar. You can separate large root tubers autumn or spring. The first option prevents rotting, while the second option allows the buds to be better visible.
When and how to plant mother tubers
Transfer root tubers from storage to room temperature possible from January to early February. Planting of mother material at this time is due to the fact that March-April is optimal for rooting. temperature regime and humidity, and the daylight hours also increase, which makes it possible to abandon artificial additional illumination of young shoots. A later forcing is also possible, up to summer, but in this case there will be no early flowering.
For planting dahlias, a store-bought soil mixture or fertile soil from the site, harvested in the fall, is suitable. The purchased substrate does not require additional processing. Peat should be added to the garden soil and disinfected in one of the following ways:
- Freezing outdoors for several weeks.
- Steaming in a water bath or calcination. This method kills all microflora, including useful ones, so it is rational to use it only as a last resort.
- Treatment special drugs for soil disinfection. The simplest and most effective option.
Containers for planting and tools also need to be treated: sterilized or wiped with alcohol. Planting material must be inspected, damaged areas removed, and rotten tubers discarded. Treat with fungicides or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. It is allowed to use growth stimulants.
There are two ways to plant them:
- One at a time in separate pots, 10-20 cm high. In this case, the neck should be located above the soil.
- Group in one container, laying in a horizontal position. This method is simple, but the roots of the plant will be intertwined.
Note! Good tubers should be strong, not too light and small, without root shoots.
Optimal conditions for tuber germination
Containers with tubers should be placed in a well-lit place. If planting is done in winter, a fluorescent lamp should be installed to compensate for the lack of sunlight.
The ideal temperature for awakening the kidneys is +20…+25°C. Humidity should be increased. To ensure conditions close to a greenhouse, it is recommended to cover the tubers with transparent plastic cups. Irrigation with water from a spray bottle is necessary daily. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out, as this can lead to the death of the awakened bud.
Subject to all conditions being met, young shoots will appear 3 weeks after planting mother tubers. From this point on, you should reduce the frequency of watering and lower the temperature to +18... +21°C - this is the optimal microclimate for growing strong shoots with thick stems. Additional lighting should be provided for 2 hours in the morning and evening. The lamp should be placed at a distance of 40 cm from the plants.
When and how to separate cuttings from tubers
The height of shoots suitable for cuttings is 7-10 cm. These must be strong and healthy shoots. There are two ways to separate them from the tuber:
- Cut with a sharp knife at an angle at a distance of about 5 mm from the internode. In this case, the process of growth of new cuttings will become continuous and several more shoots can be obtained from the same bud.
- Separate along with part of the tuber. According to the observations of gardeners, cuttings obtained by this method produce roots better and faster and rot less often.
If there are many shoots on one tuber and it is impossible to separate them without damaging the neighboring ones, it is worth cutting off the entire group along with part of the tuber, and then dividing it.
Planting cuttings and caring for young dahlias
Small containers with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of no more than 15 cm are suitable for planting separated sprouts. To create comfortable temperature and humidity, transparent caps should be provided to cover cuttings, for example, trimmed plastic bottles or glass jars. Acceptable use plastic film, if you place the plants next to each other, but their leaves should not touch.
The substrate for planting must be well moistened and the lower part of the sprout stem must be deepened into it and the soil around it must be slightly compacted. It is not advisable to plant all the cuttings in one container, since their roots are intertwined and can be damaged during subsequent transplantation.
Advice! To stimulate root formation, the cutting site can be treated with a product such as “Kornevin”.
How to properly cut young shoots, choose a container for planting and ensure an optimal microclimate, watch the video.
After planting, it is important to provide a suitable microclimate for rooting. Drying out of the substrate and excess moisture, which contributes to the development of fungus, can be dangerous for plants. Watering and spraying should be regular, but the caps of the sprouts should be removed daily to ventilate and remove excess water.
The shoots also need to be illuminated: two hours in the morning and evening. The air temperature should be kept at +20°C. Roots form after 10-12 days of maintenance in such conditions. Complete rooting takes 3 weeks. When the first roots appear, the plant is adapted to the room microclimate; to do this, it is enough to remove the caps or remove the film. 
Replanting grown plants and adapting to street conditions
2-3 weeks after final rooting, with the beginning of active growth of foliage and stem, the cuttings are again transplanted into larger separate containers. It is necessary to deepen them into the substrate up to the bottom node with leaves. Plants that are too large can be unsustainable. To prevent them from breaking, it is recommended to tie the stem to a support.
In May, the pots should be taken out onto the balcony, veranda or outdoor greenhouse. The temperature should be kept at +17°C. To adapt to the conditions of an open flower garden, the windows are first opened only in daytime, then at night. You cannot take them outside until summer weather sets in, since any drop in temperature can ruin the dahlias.
10 days after the last transplant, a complex mineral fertilizing. Next, fertilize at least once a month with organic matter and mineral compounds.
Planting dahlia in open ground
At the end of May or beginning of June, when summer temperatures have set in, the pots with cuttings should be taken to the future planting site. The selected area should be well lit, best soil– sandy loam or loamy. It is not recommended to fertilize the soil for dahlias with manure, mullein or bird droppings, due to the fact that these fertilizing sharply increase the number of microorganisms, among them there may be pathogens, to which tuberous plants are especially susceptible. It is better to add complex minerals, peat or compost.
Step-by-step instructions for planting dahlias in a permanent place:
1. Dig holes at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other.
2. Water thoroughly.
3. Install supports. It is better to do this before planting than after, so as not to damage the root system.
4. Deepen the cuttings to the first developed leaves.
5. Water the sprouts with weak stems again and tie them to the supports.
The first days after planting, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture. Further watering should be organized as needed, taking into account weather conditions. During the process of plant growth and development, it is enough to loosen upper layer soil and remove weeds.
Tubers grown from cuttings can be small and weak. To preserve them during the period of the first frosts, in the fall the root zone should be mulched with sawdust or peat. At the first sub-zero temperature, cut off the stems, leaving no more than 10 cm. After a week, the root tubers can be dug up, dried and stored.
Cuttings of dahlias according to the method of Marina Chernoivanova
The method of propagating dahlias using cuttings from florist Marina Chernoivanova is based on the described method, but is somewhat improved. It allows you to get a larger number of sprouts from one root tuber, and the grown plants are healthier and bloom earlier.
Features of the method:
- Root tubers need to be divided in the fall, before being sent for storage, while Marina Chernoivanova recommends removing as much of the lignified stem as possible and cutting the trunk across so that it dries out and does not begin to rot.
- You can plant from the beginning of December and by the end of the month you will have sprouts ready for planting. According to the observations of the gardener, during this period they rot less and take root better.
- Cuttings should be separated from the tuber until the petals have opened and the length of the plant is about 7 cm.
Vegetative propagation is a valuable way to preserve the species characteristics of a plant, the early flowering period and obtain high-quality and large flowers. Cuttings of dahlias are recommended for those who are seriously involved in growing flowering crops. To plant 2-3 bushes on a plot, simply dividing the tuber is enough.
The most common in gardening hybrid species dahlias, which are propagated by seeds, dividing tubers and propagation by cuttings. Let's look at the methods of propagating dahlias in more detail at each stage of this process.
Propagation of dahlias by dividing tubers is the most common and least labor-intensive method. The advantage of this method of propagation is the prevention of aging of the culture.
How and when to divide tubers
The division procedure is carried out as desired: in the fall during the preparation of planting material for storage or in the spring immediately before germination. Dividing tubers in the fall may seem difficult for beginners, since the root buds in the embryonic phase are practically not visible.
In this case, it is better to postpone dividing the tubers until spring, when the buds begin to sprout. But you can use a little trick: in the fall, two weeks before digging up the bush, cut off the stem. This will provoke the growth of the buds, they will become more noticeable. The buds are located, as a rule, along the circumference of the stem, on the upper section of the tuber.
Experienced gardeners prefer autumn division, explaining this fact:
- better preservation of planting material;
- ease of working with the material - the tubers have not yet hardened and have an elastic skin;
- in the fall there is enough time to work with tubers - you can carry out a thorough inspection and processing of the cuts;
- saving time in the spring to do other work in the garden.
Dahlias are dug up with stable sub-zero temperatures established. For most regions, this period falls in the second half of October - the first half of November. You can tell when it’s time to dig up dahlias by looking at a wilted or slightly frozen stem; the flowering period should be completely over by this point.
Dig up dahlias at a distance of 25 cm - 35 cm from the root, around the circumference. This technique allows you to trim long root shoots without damaging the tuber itself.
- The stems are cut, leaving shoots no longer than 2 cm - 3 cm; a larger length will lead to rotting and damage to the tubers during storage.
- The tubers are washed running water, careful processing will eliminate subsequent infection by infections and pests that are in the soil.
- Dead tubers, long suction roots, and any dried and flaccid parts of the rhizome are removed.
- Parts that are too light and thin are removed, as they are not shelf-stable and will not produce shoots in the spring.
- All rusty and yellow spots are cut out; discoloration of the neck also indicates damage to the plant.
- The tubers are separated with a sharp, disinfected knife. Disinfection of the instrument is carried out for each excavated rhizome (group of tubers).
- The separated tubers are washed again to avoid infection during storage.
You can check the viability of dahlia tubers by placing them in water. The floating tubers are discarded. Heavy tubers that have sunk to the bottom are prepared for storage.
In spring, tubers are taken out of storage 14–20 days before planting and inspected. The main sign that the tubers are ready for the division procedure is the awakening of the buds. If the buds (flower growers call them eyes) are not yet visible, the tubers are sprayed with water and placed in a lighted place for germination at an air temperature of +18°C - +23°C. Instead of water, industrial growth activators can be used.
After about two weeks, the tubers are divided using the same algorithm as in the fall. It is desirable that each separated tuber have several eyes.
Processing slices
Before storing for winter storage, tubers with fresh cuts are treated with systemic fungicides or a sulfur preparation according to the instructions. The tubers are soaked in the solution for 15 minutes, dried and placed in storage. The same is done after germination of tubers in the spring before planting.
Some gardeners add insecticides to fungicides to eliminate the risk of pest infestation. Even with the most careful inspection, you may miss an insect larva.
In case you don’t have it at hand special means, but you need to act quickly, a solution of pharmaceutical manganese is used.
Cuttings
Cuttings are considered the most productive method of propagation, because from one dahlia you can get 35 - 45 cuttings, each of which will become an independent plant in the future.
Cuttings have a number of advantages over tuberous propagation of dahlias:
- in the process of taking cuttings, early culling of planting material is carried out, whereas when propagated by tubers, a diseased plant can be identified only at the stage of emergence;
- dahlias from cuttings increase their vegetative mass and bloom earlier;
- dahlias removed from cuttings have higher immunity;
- dahlias from cuttings better retain their species characteristics and are distinguished by the purity of the variety;
- flowers are more lush and abundant flowering.
True, there are also disadvantages to propagation by cuttings. Due to the peculiarities of germination technology, the plant’s tubers are deformed, the root shoots are bent and intertwined. Several shoots always appear from the tuber, even if it is damaged. An injured cutting never survives.
The number of tubers and their size in a cutting dahlia is much smaller than in a flower planted by dividing the tubers. In addition, cuttings are a rather complicated method, especially for beginners. Propagation by tubers is easier, but the quality of the resulting plants is often worse.
Timing for planting queen cells on cuttings
Royal tubers are planted in winter, around the first ten days of February. The timing of the work must be calculated in such a way that the rooting period of the cuttings occurs no earlier than mid-March. It is from the second half of March until the beginning of July that cuttings take root best.
On preparatory stage prepare containers and instruments: wash with soda solution, disinfect either by sterilization or using an alcohol solution. The mother tubers are sorted and the highest quality ones are selected.
Preparing the substrate and preparing the queen cells
The soil mixture for royal tubers is prepared in the fall. This can be fertile garden soil, to which a little peat is added. If the soil has not been stocked since the fall, it will have to be purchased at the store. An important point is to disinfect the soil before planting. Purchased soil may not be processed, but garden soil may contain weed seeds, pathogenic flora and pest larvae.
There are several ways to treat the soil, the simplest and most effective of which is freezing. To do this, the soil is left on the loggia or in the courtyard for several weeks. low temperatures.
A more labor-intensive method is steaming in a water bath. Containers with soil mixture are placed on a pan of boiling water and kept for several hours. The advantage of the method is the preservation of beneficial microorganisms and the destruction of pathogenic ones.
Calcination in the oven is an old method that has long since exhausted its usefulness. Calcined soil is depleted and dehydrated, there is no pathogenic flora in it, but beneficial microorganisms will also completely die.
From modern methods It may be advisable to treat the soil with biologically active preparations, which can be purchased in specialized stores.
Royal tubers are placed in a lighted place. If there is not enough light, additional lighting is carried out with lamps. Before this, the tubers are treated with fungicides or a low concentration manganese solution. To accelerate the awakening of tubers, growth stimulants and activators are used, for example, the drug "Epin".
If you buy queen cells in a store, select clean tubers without traces of putrefactive lesions and root shoots. They should not be too light or small.
Queen cells are planted in two ways:
- Single planting in a container 10 cm – 20 cm high.
- Group planting in a container.
When planting a single planting, it is necessary to ensure that the neck of the queen cell is above the level soil mixture. When planting in groups, the queen cells are placed in a horizontal position. The second method is less labor-intensive, but has a drawback: the roots of the tubers can get tangled.
Optimal temperature for germination of mother tubers +20°C – +25°C. The soil should not be allowed to dry out. After about three weeks, young shoots appear, and preparations for cuttings can begin.
With the appearance of the first shoots, the conditions for keeping the mother tubers change. Watering is reduced, and the temperature drops to +18°C – +21°C.
Pots for cuttings
For rooting cuttings, small containers with a height of 15 cm and a diameter of no more than 10 cm are used. Since dahlia is a heat-loving crop, greenhouse conditions are created for the cuttings. To do this, you need to prepare glass jars that will be used as a cap. Instead of glass jars you can use cut plastic bottles or containers from drinking water.
To root cuttings, you can purchase a home mini-greenhouse. It consists of a plastic tray with high sides, into which cassettes with soil and cuttings are placed. The top of the device is covered with a voluminous lid. The greenhouse is easy to use and designed for reusable use. Only the plant cassettes will require replacement.
Caring for cuttings
Cuttings are performed when the shoots on the mother plant (usually there are two) reach 7 cm - 10 cm. They are cut at an angle clean tool: kitchen or stationery knife. After cutting, a few millimeters of shoot should remain at the base of the queen cell; in this case, forcing the cuttings will continue continuously. Each cutting is buried in a well-moistened soil substrate, after which it is necessary to take care of the growing conditions.
Spraying and watering
During the period when the cuttings are in greenhouse conditions, it is necessary to monitor the level of soil moisture. The soil should not be allowed to dry out, as waterlogging will lead to the development of fungal diseases. To prevent the appearance of fungus, airing is carried out daily, for which the lids are removed from the containers for half an hour.
To speed up rooting, before planting, the cuttings are dipped in a solution of the drug “Kornevin” or in a self-prepared solution: 5 ml of honey/100 ml of aloe juice/1 liter of water.
Temperature and light mode
The cuttings will need additional illumination with fluorescent lamps for two hours in the morning and evening hours. The optimal temperature during the rooting period is +20°C. After approximately 10 - 12 days, the first roots appear on the cuttings. At this time, the greenhouse caps must be removed so that the planting material can adapt to room conditions content. With the onset of active growth, the plants are transplanted into larger containers, and after 10 ten days the first mineral fertilizer is applied.
Propagation by seeds
Reproduction of dahlias by seeds is carried out to obtain new specimens with the exception of preserving species characteristics from the perennial mother bush. Seeds are also propagated annual crops dark-leaved and dwarf species.
We prepare seeds
If the goal is to obtain a new variety of dahlias, the seeds are purchased at the store. Most often, they are already prepared for planting and etched with special solutions in industrial conditions. All that remains is to soak the seeds and plant them in containers.
If you want to get a variety that is already in the garden, you can prepare the seeds. For this, inflorescences with almost ripe seeds are cut off and left to ripen (ripen) in a dry and warm room. After ripening, the seeds are removed, dried and packaged for storage until March, when planting will take place.
Preparing soil and pots for planting seeds
In the northern regions and middle lane Dahlias are grown as seedlings. Containers are prepared for seedlings and filled with sandy loam soil. Sprinkle the planted seeds with a layer of sand, which is disinfected in advance by calcination.
With the appearance of one or two true leaves, the seedlings are picked in separate containers with a height of 15 cm - 20 cm and a diameter of 8 cm - 10 cm. Picking can also be carried out in spacious boxes, maintaining a distance between plants of at least 7 cm. Nutrient soil is prepared in the container for picking from loamy soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1.
Before planting, the seeds are pickled in a manganese solution for 15 minutes, then washed and quickly planted. Embedding into the soil is carried out to a depth of 5 mm - 1 cm.
Planting and caring for crops
After picking, the seedlings are fed with complex fertilizers. Flowers are kept in pots until May, and only after that they are transferred to a greenhouse before the end of the month. This is due to the fact that for dahlias subzero temperatures are destructive, they simply will not survive the return of spring frosts.
From mid-June, dahlias are planted in open ground. At this time, the plants are already beginning to budding, but the crop tolerates replanting when the temperature stabilizes.
Standard care for dahlias includes:
- moderate and regular watering;
- loosening and timely removal of weeds;
- fertilizing;
- pinching - pinching shoots to form a bush.
Ten days after planting and before flowering, fertilizers are applied to the dahlias every two weeks. Considering late dates planting in open ground, fertilizing begins at the stage of growing in pots during the period of active growth.
Add organic solutions from mullein or chicken manure. For abundant flowering under dahlias apply nitrogen fertilizers: urea or ammonium nitrate. Experienced gardeners recommend alternating organic and mineral fertilizers to get maximum results.
Pruning of bushes is carried out immediately after the plant has adapted to permanent place until the end of the growing season. All side shoots and part of the buds are pinched. The flower stalk of dahlias usually consists of three inflorescences, from which the bud on the shortest stem is removed. The lower leaves are also removed to provide light access to the tubers.
Rejection of dahlias planted with seeds is carried out in the first season. Usually, out of a hundred plants, no more than five remain worthy of bearing the name of the variety.
Reproduction of dahlias by stepsons
Reproduction by stepsons is a method rarely used in dahlias. Correct name- propagation by sports, but since the lateral branches are sprouted for the procedure, this name has stuck. The method is used to breed new types of dahlias.
An unusual branch is found on the bush, with characteristics atypical for this variety. These branches are called sports. From the sport, cut a stalk 9 cm - 12 cm long and plant it in a pot with moistened soil. Since sports usually appear at the end of the growing season, the cuttings are overwintered in a pot at home.
In order for the plant to go into winter, watering is gradually reduced from the end of October, and increased again in February. In March nitrogen fertilizing, planted in open ground with dahlias obtained from cuttings or tubers.
There are several ways to propagate dahlias, they all have their advantages and disadvantages. But whatever method you prefer, remember that dahlias are responsive plants; they will definitely respond to your care with abundant flowering.
Propagation of dahlias by green cuttings. By using the method of green cuttings of dahlias, you can obtain a large amount of planting material for the new season, as well as rejuvenate old plants.
To obtain cuttings of dahlia tubers, you need to plant them for germination at the end of February. At this time, dormant buds located on the root collar are ready to activate their development.
Preparing and planting dahlia tubers
The first thing you need to do is carefully examine the dahlia root tubers. Very large specimens can be divided into several parts. Each resulting division should contain part of the root collar with 2-3 dormant buds and several fleshy tubers.
The substrate for the germination of root tubers can be prepared from sand or sawdust and peat, taken in equal parts. You can also use coconut fiber. Dahlia root tubers are planted in it without deepening the upper part of the root collar, on which the regenerating buds are located. After planting, the substrate is watered abundantly, trying to prevent water from entering the root tubers.
Favorable conditions for germination of dahlia root tubers
Containers with root tubers are placed in a sunny window. The optimal temperature for their germination is about 22C.
The upper part of the tubers must be periodically sprayed with water using a spray bottle. This will stimulate the development of shoots from regenerating buds located on the root collar.
As soon as they are activated and begin to grow, the frequency and rate of watering is reduced. It is necessary to allow the substrate to dry out a little to prevent rotting. From this point on, the temperature should be reduced to 16C by placing the planting containers, for example, on a glazed balcony.
To obtain high-quality shoots suitable for cuttings, they will need to be illuminated, increasing the daylight hours by 10-12 hours. For these purposes, you can use a fluorescent lamp or a specialized phytolamp. The artificial light source should be located above the plants at a height of 40 cm.
Cuttings of dahlias
After 2-3 weeks, shoots with several internodes will develop from the buds. Their height will be about 10-15 cm. At this time you can begin cuttings.
Cuttings can be harvested in two ways - break them out with a piece of root tuber or cut them with a sharp knife. Cuttings obtained using the first method take root much faster. First of all, you need to pay attention to powerful, more developed shoots. They take root much better and develop faster.
So, using a sharp knife, the shoot is carefully separated from the root tuber, capturing a small area of the rhizome. The cut line should be located along the leaf node, 5 mm away from the leaf petioles. This will promote accelerated root formation.
If the shoots are located close to each other on the root tuber, it is convenient to first cut off the entire group and then divide it into individual petioles.
With a limited amount of dahlia planting material, weak shoots can also be taken from cuttings. The main rule: when cutting cuttings, capture at least a small fragment of the rhizome.
In the process of preparing cuttings, you need to remember about the safety of root tubers. In their rejuvenated state, they will replant and produce flowers. Therefore, parts need to be separated from them meaningfully and rationally, and preferably away from the root collar.
After cutting the green petioles, the lower leaves are removed from them. The bases of the petioles should be powdered with a root formation stimulator, for example, “Kornevin”. After this, they are placed to a depth of 2 cm in a container with a well-moistened substrate of a similar composition. In addition, perlite can be used as it.
The soil at the base of the cuttings is carefully compacted for improved contact with the substrate. When planting a large number of cuttings at the same time, they can be planted in a common container. In this case, they are placed obliquely (at an angle of 45 degrees). The planting density should be such that the leaves of adjacent petioles do not touch.
Next, the planted cuttings are covered plastic bag and put it in a warm (25C), well-lit place. Periodically, as the substrate dries, the cover is removed, the cuttings are ventilated and watered, and inside film, condensation is removed.
Over time, new shoots grow from the axillary buds of the mother plant, which after a few more weeks can be used to cut the next batch of cuttings.
Thus, green cuttings of dahlias can be continued right up to April, cutting cuttings not only from shoots growing on the tuber root, but also from already rooted cuttings of the previous cut.
Again, you need to remember that some of the shoots for flowering must be preserved on the mother tuber root. After cutting the cuttings, these plants are kept in a cool (up to 16C), bright room, where they will remain until planted in the flower garden. If necessary, supports are installed for highly developed shoots.
Caring for cuttings
After final rooting of the cuttings, the polyethylene cover is removed. After a few more weeks, they can already be planted in separate small pots (9 cm in diameter).
When transplanting, they are buried in the substrate to the level lower leaves. If the cuttings become very elongated during the rooting process, they will need to be tied to supports so that they do not break or bend before planting in the flower garden.
If mother plants were used for cuttings different varieties, then it is better to mark the cuttings.
Cuttings transplanted into pots are placed in cooler conditions (on indoor balcony) with a temperature within 17C. Here they are kept until transplanted into the garden. During this period, the plants must be gradually hardened, accustomed to open conditions.
You can’t immediately expose plants to straight lines. Sun rays, you also need to get used to them gradually.
Dahlia seedlings will need regular but moderate watering and spraying. Before planting, they need to be fed twice (once a month) with organic and mineral complex fertilizers.
Planting dahlias in a flower garden
Dahlias obtained from cuttings can be planted in open ground when the threat of return and night frosts is guaranteed to have passed. This is best done at the end of May.
Before planting, the holes are watered abundantly, and supports are installed near them. When installing them after planting, there is a risk of mechanical damage to the roots.
When planting, plants are buried to the level of the first pair of developed leaves. As a rule, by this time the seedlings should have formed a well-developed root system, so if the earthen ball collapses during transplantation, it’s okay. Dahlias easily tolerate transplantation, quickly adapting to a new place.
Propagation of dahlias by tubers is one of the most effective methods, which experienced gardeners often resort to. It allows you to get beautiful and large inflorescences with bright colors. And in order for the result to please you, you must adhere to certain rules and recommendations.
Choosing a tuber for growing a flower
Many people are happy to buy cut dahlias and admire them in their home. These flowers are truly worth admiring.
There are more than 30 species of annual and perennial dahlias the most different sizes, colors and varieties (about 15 thousand). The main advantage of this flower is the duration of its flowering. After all, dahlias continue to bloom continuously from July until the first autumn frosts, decorating the yard with their splendor and variety of colors.
Lovers garden flowers What often stops them is that, in their opinion, it is difficult to grow dahlias, since the dahlia tuber cannot overwinter in the soil. And store it in winter period difficult and troublesome. And caring for flowers is too complicated. In general, dahlias are not flowers for the lazy.
Indeed, storing dahlia tubers requires certain conditions and knowledge. To grow beautiful and healthy plant, the flower tuber should be dense (not soft, but not dried out or wrinkled).
When is the best time to buy planting material? You should not do this in autumn or winter. Especially if you are just starting to grow these wonderful flowers.
It is best to leave the purchase of tubers until late spring, when it is time to plant them in the ground. And if the time for planting has not yet come, then until then the dahlia tuber should be stored in a box with damp sand or peat.
It is also important that the tubers or parts thereof have eyes. If the eyes are not visible, then it is unlikely that anything will grow from such tubers. And you can plant dahlias as tubers only after the earth has completely warmed up to the entire depth of the fertile layer. This is usually the end of May or even the beginning of June.
Executing the procedure
One of the methods that allows you to efficiently propagate dahlias is to use tubers. This method not applicable in all cases. A signal that the tubers are ready for reproduction is the presence of buds on the neck of the dahlia. After a certain time, they should transform into so-called sprouts.
How to propagate the flower in question using the tuberous method in order to achieve a positive effect? Most professional flower growers focus on the timeliness of the procedure.
- Until the end of March, tubers are usually stored in special storage facilities, where special conditions have been created to prevent them from deteriorating. In early April, they are moved to a room where it is warm enough for them to warm up.
- Tubers should be dealt with additionally only in cases where their condition is unsatisfactory. Quite often it happens that they become lethargic. This does not mean that such tubers are no longer suitable for propagation. The situation can be saved. The tubers must be placed in cool water for 11-12 hours. Then they are taken out of the water and left for 10-15 minutes to dry.
- Next comes the planting of the prepared material. For this you will need special boxes. They are filled with earth and sand. Tubers are placed there and covered with soil. The dahlia neck, which has a root nature, should not be covered with soil. This part of the tuber must be open, otherwise the flower will not be propagated using the method under consideration. To implement this stage as correctly as possible, you can watch how specialists do it.
- Boxes with planted tubers are placed in a greenhouse. If this condition cannot be met, then you can use alternative option- a greenhouse. Caring for planted tubers involves ensuring the correct level of soil moisture. The first watering is done immediately after planting them; it should not be abundant.
- In the first days, experts recommend carefully ensuring that the soil is not very wet. This parameter should fluctuate within moderate limits. After 3 days, the humidity level is increased, as the tubers are already moving to a new stage of development.
How to prepare dahlias for spring planting (video)
Further actions
This indicator indicates that they are ready for the main stage. The tuber reproduces by division. Beginning flower growers can watch a special video to better understand how this event takes place. First you need to free the root collar from the ground.
But damaged tubers cannot be propagated, so if necessary, additional measures must be taken to remove rotten and other damaged parts. A mandatory action at this stage is to sprinkle the cut parts with special coal, which must be crushed in advance.
The dahlia neck allows reproduction only with dispersed placement of the eyes. In cases where they accumulate close to each other, it is better not to use the tuber and wait until other sprouts appear on it.
Division is initially carried out by peeling off those parts that easily yield when pressed with fingers on the side areas. The rest of the part is cut with a regular knife, but the event is carried out carefully, which can be seen in the video. A prerequisite is that a sprout must be present on all obtained parts.
The resulting material can be stored for 2-3 weeks. To prevent it from being spoiled, it is covered thin layer soil, which is a mixture of sand and earth. Watering in in this case not required. Planting of prepared parts of dahlia tubers is carried out either directly in open ground or in a pot. It all depends on what the temperature is outside. If the weather is quite warm, then the first option will be very suitable.
Before implementing the planting process itself, it is planned to carry out one more additional event. It involves processing the root system. The roots are shortened. This procedure is carried out for the appearance of other tubers. They can also be divided during development.
Many gardeners often say that propagating dahlias by seeds is more effective, but experts do not entirely agree with this. It is the use of tubers that makes it possible to get gorgeous flowers.
Dahlias: dividing tubers (video)
Propagating dahlias using tubers may seem like a difficult task to an inexperienced gardener. This will require certain training, knowledge and skills. However, if you take the advice of specialists and carry out the necessary steps step by step, then beautiful bouquet will definitely please you.
A dahlia must have a maximum of two stems for it to form large flowers. If there are more stems, many flowers will be formed, but their size will be small, there will be fewer petals, the color will become dull, and from luxurious decorative flower The result will be an unremarkable plant. In addition, dividing dahlias helps rejuvenate the bush. This is why it is necessary to propagate dahlias.
We dig up planting material before severe frosts
Before dividing the dahlia, it must be dug up. This must be done before frost begins. If severe frosts suddenly begin and the dahlias are not dug up in a timely manner, the fleshy stem will die, and when it gets warmer, it will rot. This process can then affect the tubers. Therefore, it is necessary to dig up the flower before severe frosts occur so that the plant does not die.
Low-growing dahlias, when compared with other flowers, for example, gladioli, are less picky about weather conditions. This means that digging up tubers can be carried out in rainy weather.
Important! In order for the tubers to last until the warm season, and there is nothing left to separate, it is necessary that they ripen. To do this, two to three weeks before digging up the plant, you do not need to water it.
How to divide dahlias
Reproduce perennial varieties Can the following options: tuber division or cuttings. Although it is possible to combine two methods at once, due to which one is strong and healthy flower will turn into three or more dahlias.
How many divisions will come out will depend on the number of buds. They can be seen at the top of the tuber and are usually found around the stem of the flower. It is quite difficult to examine such buds when they are in a state of formation.
In this situation, you can resort to the following methods:
- Divide dahlias not in the fall, but in the spring. At this time, the process of bud germination will begin, so they will be easier to notice.
- A couple of days before digging up the plant, trim its stem. This measure also promotes bud germination.
Cuttings, in fact, have no other function than propagation of dahlias. This method is also very effective - from one rhizome you can get as many cuttings as there are buds on it.
How to properly divide dahlia tubers
Tubers are divided in spring or autumn. But, nevertheless, the latter option is preferable, since in this case it will be easier for the roots to endure storage; processing and dividing the tuber is easier, since it is not yet as rough as in the spring, its peel is thin. In addition, in the fall, gardeners usually have big amount time than in spring. Therefore, they can carefully examine the tubers, process and disinfect the cut areas.
Before cutting dahlias or separating tubers, the rhizomes are dug up and processed.
Important! The first cold weather can harm the leaves of the plant, however, they do not pose a danger to the tubers.
Tuber preparation
Dahlias should be dug up during the period when severe frosts begin. In most regions of Russia, this period falls in mid-October. By this time, the plant will wither or freeze, and the inflorescences will fade. To prevent the flower from rotting, becoming infected with a fungus, and to better withstand storage during the cold season, the plant is stopped watering a couple of weeks before the tubers are dug up.
In order not to injure the tubers when digging, you need to step back from it by about 30 centimeters along the entire diameter and carefully dig in. Thanks to this, you can trim very long roots without damaging the root system.
After this, the tubers must be carefully turned with their roots up and left to dry for several hours. At high humidity outside, the tubers must be brought into a room where it is warm and dry.
Attention! If it rains when digging up the plant, the dahlia should be covered with waterproof material, this will help avoid rotting of the roots.
Tuber division
For the division procedure, it is advisable to select strong and intensive flowering bushes. The tubers are divided as follows:
- Before digging up the bush, the stems are cut off, leaving parts of about 30 centimeters. The stems are not left long because they can break and injure the root. When the bush is dug up, part of the soil is carefully removed from the tuber, then it is washed with water. When washing, small unformed nodules are cut off, as well as tubers that are bent and intertwined. They preserve the main tubers that extend from the root and have growth buds. They are the ones who will separate.
- Long tubers are reduced to 15 centimeters. If the plant consists of several trunks, the tuber is divided into several bushes depending on how many there are. The division is carried out carefully, the rhizome is loosened. It may be necessary to cut the mother tuber.
- The roots are washed again, the stems are shortened to two centimeters.
- You can leave the tubers on the veranda for two or three days, but if there are frosts at night, you need to put them in a dry and warm place.
How to properly divide dahlia root
When the bushes are dug up and washed, they need to rest for two to three days. Then you can separate them or remove them for the winter and divide them in the spring.
Autumn division
To divide the rhizome you will need sharp scissors or a knife. The procedure is carried out as follows:
1. The remainder of the stem is divided in half using sharp knife so that there are buds on both sides. This must be done carefully so as not to break off the stem from the rhizome. If this does happen, it’s okay.
2. The rhizome is stretched so that it breaks in two. After this, the resulting pieces are inspected. If there are more than two buds on them, this stage can be gone through again, dividing the rhizome into two parts and stretching the tubers. Thanks to this procedure, several parts are obtained from one large root, capable of becoming full-fledged bushes in the future.
3. Ideal option planting material is a whole tuber or a part of it with a bud. If the tuber has two buds, you can divide it in two using a sharp knife.
Spring division
When dividing in spring, the tubers are removed from storage a few days before the planting season begins and the buds are examined. Separation can be carried out if the kidneys are awakened. It happens that they are impossible to see because they have dried out during the cold season. In such a situation, you need to sprinkle water on them and leave them to germinate. When this happens, carry out the division procedure using the method described above.
Propagation of dahlias by cuttings
Propagation can be done by cuttings. Such shoots are obtained at the stage of tuber germination. Cuttings should be carried out in the spring. With the onset of warmth, the buds on the tubers awaken and sprout.
Tubers are removed from their storage places, inspected, withered and bad specimens are thrown away, and good ones begin to germinate.
To grow cuttings you should purchase special device or plant in coconut substrate. The container is filled to the middle with the mixture. The tuber is also not placed completely in the substrate - the top, where the buds are located, should remain above the surface.
After a couple of weeks, the flower stem will begin to grow. Once its height exceeds 10 cm, carefully cut it between the kidneys using a well-sharpened knife or scissors.
For the cutting to take root, it must be placed in a glass with a small amount water. After some time, the first roots form. Another option is to immediately plant in a substrate of coconut fibers, sand and peat.
Propagation of dahlias by tubers
Dahlias can also reproduce by tubers. Unlike cuttings, dividing by tubers is preferable to be done in the fall. The rhizomes are prepared, washed, dried, examined, and the buds are counted. It is more convenient to first divide a large root in two so that the same number of buds remains on both parts.
You only need to cut the tuber with a sterile, well-sharpened knife. To disinfect, you can use alcohol or ignite the knife over a fire.
First, an incision is made on the top of the tuber, where the stem is located. Then you need to take two edges and carefully stretch them to the sides, thereby breaking the rhizome into two parts.
To soak the cuttings, you can use a saturated manganese solution. Then they are laid out on newspaper to air and dry.
Germinated cuttings and tubers can be planted into the soil when the risk of severe frosts has disappeared.
Usually this is done no earlier than May.
Rules for storing dahlia tubers
If the tubers are stored incorrectly, the dahlia may rot or dry out. This happens due to temperature changes or high or low humidity. To store dahlias, you should choose places where the temperature and humidity values are stable. It is preferable to use cellars and basements for this.
There are several options for storing dahlia tubers:
- In sand or sawdust. With this method, the roots are preserved until the next season, however, it is necessary to strictly control the level of moisture in the substrate. If the climate is dry, it must be additionally moistened, otherwise the tubers will dry out.
- In vermiculite. The substance retains water well, but when the temperature rises, tubers begin to sprout.
- In clay. You can preserve dahlia tubers using clay. It needs to be diluted with water to a creamy consistency and the tubers should be immersed in it. In the spring you will need to hit the crust that has formed, the clay will crumble and the buds will sprout.
- In paraffin. Especially valuable specimens that can germinate in the middle of winter are usually stored in this substance. To do this, paraffin is heated to 70°C and the tubers are immersed in it one by one. After the crust has hardened on them, the dahlias are placed in boxes or crates for storage.
If you follow all the rules, you don’t have to return to the issue of purchasing new tubers. Dividing and propagating dahlias is a fairly simple task that even an inexperienced gardener can handle.
