Finishing the steam room in stages. What is the decoration of a bathhouse inside, photo examples. Requirements for insulation of a bath room

Interior decoration is the most important stage in the design of any bathhouse, and the Finnish sauna is no exception. You can handle the finishing work yourself. You just need to understand the basics of the work ahead and carry out all the activities step by step in accordance with the most important recommendations.

First of all, you must choose materials that are optimal for the interior. Finnish sauna. In the steam room, the air temperature will rise to high values. The materials must be such that sauna visitors cannot get burned.

Finishing can be done using materials that heat up to a maximum of 50-60 degrees. Only wood and ceramic tile. The walls near the stove and the stove unit itself are lined using various natural materials.

Application paints and varnishes for finishing a Finnish sauna under the strictest prohibition.

Wood must be treated with special water-repellent compounds that can prevent excessive moisture and rotting of the material. Such hydrophobic compounds do not change the color and texture of wood and are completely safe for human health.

Features of different types of wood

On modern market presents a huge selection of a wide variety of wood materials, suitable for interior decoration baths Be sure to study the features and basic properties of the available options.

Abashi

This is an African oak. Among the main advantages of this type of wood, the following points should be highlighted:

high strength;
durability;
relatively light weight;
absence of knots and resinous discharge.

The oak finish does not burn the skin. The only one significant drawback material is its high price.

Cedar

Altai, Ussuri and, of course, Canadian breeds are suitable. Advantages:

resistance to excess humidity, high temperatures and temperature changes;
resistance to fungi, insects, rot;
excellent aesthetic qualities;
good aroma.

In alternative medicine, cedar takes pride of place and is considered a healing material that has a calming effect on the body and destroys pathogenic bacteria.

Linden

One of the most widely used finishing materials. Main advantages:

high strength and sufficient hardness with relatively low weight;
normal tolerance of high temperature and excess humidity;
pleasant aroma;
beautiful colour;
medicinal properties.

Alder

An excellent material with healing properties and a pleasant, non-burning surface. Alder does not emit resin, which is very important advantage in conditions of elevated temperature.

When heated, the material changes color slightly, and when cooled, the color returns to its previous state. This gives additional aesthetic pleasure during bath procedures.

Larch

Tree of the pine family. It has high strength and a pleasant-to-touch surface. When heated, it gives a pleasant aroma and releases many useful substances. Larch is characterized by a long service life even in conditions of high temperature and humidity.

Pine

If you want to use pine or spruce wood to decorate your Finnish sauna, pay attention only to wood from the northern regions. Spruces and pines from Finland stand out against the general background.

Wood has a high density and does not lose its original properties for a very long time. Pine normally tolerates contact with moisture, does not rot and is not affected by fungi if handled correctly. High-quality pine fills the steam room with a pleasant smell.

Aspen

Budget finishing material. The wood contains no resins. Aspen is easy to process. The new material has a nice White color. However, after a while the aspen begins to darken. Also, the disadvantages of the material include the tendency to various tree diseases.

Birch

It has a strong and uniform structure. When exposed to high temperatures, it may become slightly deformed. To prevent this from happening, you need to buy high-quality dried material. It has a pleasant color and healing properties.

Sequence of finishing work

Domestic Finishing work In a Finnish sauna, they begin with the arrangement of the floor. Then the ceiling is decorated, and finally the walls.

If possible, wooden floors in the sauna should be avoided. Of course, with a plank floor, the interior of the steam room will look more organic and intact, however, drying such floors is very difficult. Usually, owners do not pay due attention to drying, as a result of which the steam room quickly begins to smell unpleasantly of rotten wood.

That is why it is best to use ceramic tiles for tiling the floor in a steam room.

First step. Level the base for the tiles. To do this, pour a regular concrete screed. At the same stage, arrange the foundation for the future stove. Select the dimensions of the base in accordance with the dimensions of your furnace unit. Make the height such that the foundation rises above the floor by about 10 cm.

Fill the screed so that the finished base for the tiles is tilted approximately 1% towards the location of the water collection pit.

Second step. Make a pit near the location of the stove. From the pit, lay it on the street drain pipe with a diameter of 5 cm.

Third step. Lay the tiles on a dry base. It is best to use clinker tiles - they do not slip even when wet.

Start tiling from the corner furthest from the entrance to the steam room. To fix the tiles, use a special heat-resistant adhesive. Apply adhesive composition onto the base using a comb spatula. Optimal thickness glue layer – 1.5-2 mm.

The joints between the tiles must be identical. To comply with this requirement, use special plastic crosses. Make seams up to 4 mm wide. Remove excess glue from seams immediately.

Fourth step. After the glue has dried (usually it takes 1-3 days), start grouting the joints. It will help you with this rubber spatula and special grout. Choose the grout color at your discretion. After grouting, wipe the floor with a damp sponge.

Fifth step. Place wooden grates on the floor.

The ceiling of a Finnish sauna is subjected to the most intense thermal effects. The best option for such premises is a suspended ceiling structure.

First step. Assemble the frame of the structure from boards measuring 15x5 cm.

Second step. Attach to frame boards plastic film. A construction stapler with staples will help you with this.

Third step. Place the selected insulation into the cells of the frame. Usually mineral wool is used.

Fourth step. On top of the insulation, attach a vapor barrier membrane material to the frame boards.

Fifth step. Attach perpendicular slats about 3 cm thick to the frame boards. These slats need to be attached in increments of about 6 cm.

Sixth step. Attach clapboard boards to the slats. For fixation, use clamps or other convenient fasteners.

If a stove that requires the installation of a chimney will be used in the bathhouse, install a special flange or a passage unit into the ceiling. These elements are sold in specialized stores of furnace equipment and accessories for steam rooms.

Wall cladding

Before you start decorating the walls, ensure that the steam room has sufficient ventilation. To do this, create in the walls through holes for air supply and exhaust.

Arrange the supply channel at a height of up to 50 cm from the floor, preferably not far from the stove. Place the hood on the opposite side to the supply duct at a distance of about 50 cm from the ceiling. Install on the holes ventilation grates, preferably wooden. After this, you can proceed directly to finishing the walls.

First step. Attach vertical support posts. To fix these elements, use screws or nails. Fasten first corner posts, stretch a rope between the outer supports and, using it as a guide, position all the internal beams in increments corresponding to the width of the selected insulation.

Second step. Place waterproofing film on the wall and attach it to the studs using a stapler.

Third step. Place insulation on top of the film into the cells of the frame.

Fourth step. Cover the insulation vapor barrier material. Attach the vapor barrier to the studs using a stapler.

Fifth step. Nail perpendicular slats over the posts.

Sixth step. Attach the clapboard to the slats. Place the sheets vertically. To secure the sheathing, use clamps or other convenient fasteners.

If you decide to fasten the lining in a horizontal position, do the work in the same order, but do not stuff the perpendicular slats, but attach the sheets directly to the racks. In such a situation, you will need to use racks that protrude 2-3 cm above the thermal insulation. Start the sheathing from the bottom.

Cover the walls near the stove with non-flammable materials. The best option is natural minerals such as soapstone, jadeite, etc. These same minerals are perfect for finishing a stove.

Finishing work

Install the door. Basswood canvases are usually used. The size of the door to the steam room should be at least 190x70 cm. A door made of tempered glass is also perfect.

If your sauna design includes windows, give preference dual systems to provide better thermal insulation. If possible, windows should be placed at a short distance from the floor.

To illuminate the sauna, use lamps that are resistant to high temperatures and excess humidity. Most the best option– fiber optic lighting devices.

At the end, all you have to do is lay out or install a ready-made stove unit and very soon you will be able to enjoy the warmth of a Finnish sauna you have finished yourself.

Good luck!

Video - DIY bathhouse interior decoration

Video - Exclusive steam room, top-level bath finishing

The bathhouse can be built from any material: wood, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete and much more. To do this, you can involve specialists in this field.
But decorating the inside of bathhouses with your own hands can be not only economically profitable, but also of high quality.

Where to start finishing work? After all, there are several surfaces in the room that need to be done aesthetically beautifully.
This includes finishing:

Stan.
Paula
Ceiling.

Floor finishing

The whole process starts from the floor. As a rule, no subfloor is made during construction.
It is for this reason that it is worthwhile to initially tackle floor structures. For this, a concrete screed is made.
For the solution used:

Cement grade 400.
Crushed stone (not too large).
Sand (cleaned).
Water.

Stages of work:

Wooden beacons are installed along the entire perimeter of the room, and the solution will be poured along them. After this, a backfill is made of sand and crushed stone, and expanded clay can also be used.
This represents insulation and waterproofing work. It is especially important to do this if the room does not have a basement.
Myself concrete mortar mixed in a concrete mixer. This way you can save time and effort. It is necessary to fill in such a way that the surface of the subfloor is as smooth as possible.

The use of a bathhouse has long been considered not only a hygienic, but also a health-improving procedure. People who visit the sauna are less likely to suffer from colds, cardiovascular diseases and diseases nervous system. Considered traditional wooden sauna: the walls of the steam room “breathe” in it, which contributes to improved ventilation of hot air.

Peculiarities

Today there are many different options for interior decoration of a bathhouse - this and gas silicate blocks, and brick, and so far only gaining popularity, magnetite. However, finishing made from natural materials, namely wood, continues to be considered the most suitable. Thanks to wooden lining, it becomes possible to create the specific microclimate and cozy atmosphere necessary for a bath or sauna. When planning to cover a bathhouse with clapboard yourself, you need to take into account not only all the nuances, but also carefully follow the rules for such finishing indoors.

Selection of lining and calculation of area

For quality work it is necessary to select the right material and calculate its quantity.

It is necessary to sheathe the inner surface of a room such as a bathhouse only with materials that can withstand:

large temperature changes;
high humidity;
constant contact with water and various substances.

Board type and material grade

Today, the building materials market is filled with a variety of linings from many manufacturers. The lamellas are produced as Russian production, and foreign. Eurolining is produced with various options profile sections. Also, wooden lining can vary in the surface quality of the back and front sides of the board, the shape of the lock and its dimensions, the type of material and other equally significant parameters.

Most often, lining of several popular profiles is used.

Eurolining, which has clear sharp edges and forms seams visible to the naked eye when covering.
Softline with more rounded corners.
Calm. The seam with this finish is almost invisible, because it does not have recessed shelves. It can imitate timber and have both quite sharp and smoother rounded edges.

A lawnhouse, the front side of which is not smooth, but with various patterns. The design on the lamella of the lawnhouse is applied using figured milling on more expensive materials and using hot stamping on cheaper ones.
Blockhouse (siding).
Double-sided lining. Both the groove and the tenon of such a board are located exactly in the middle, so both sides turn out equally smooth - you can choose between them. However, this material has almost no ventilation (the ability to “breathe”), so it is not very well suited for interior decoration of such wet areas like a bathhouse, swimming pool or sauna.

To determine the type of purchased lining, you can use the European DIN standard. The difficulty is that many manufacturers use various GOSTs and even their own specifications, so first of all it is necessary to look at the surface quality of the material itself, and not at the markings. All lining is produced using the same equipment and using the same technology, so the grade of material is determined during inspection after the completion of the manufacturing process.

Premium (or extra). Almost perfect quality of the lining. Neither branches nor cracks are allowed on the slats. Easy blue tint, small chips, roughness and imperfections are possible only from the inside.
Class A. The branches on such a board should not be more than 1 cm in diameter and should not occur more often than once in an area one meter long. Cracks, if any, should be very small and, of course, not through. It is advisable that the manufacturer putty them himself. All other defects are allowed only on the inside.
Class B. Knots in diameter can be no more than a third of the lamella, but in any quantity. The presence of through cracks and open pockets is also allowed.
Class C- this is all the remaining lining, on which blue spots and a large number of large knots are visible. There may even be gaps on the surface of the side that is visible after installation. However, it is believed that lining of this class cannot be used for finishing walls

Wood

A bathhouse is not only a steam room, but also a wash room, a dressing room or even a swimming pool. For each room it would be more appropriate to choose wood of a certain species.

Wood is divided into two categories:

coniferous: pine, spruce, cedar;
deciduous: linden, aspen and others.

One of the most popular material options for eurolining is linden board. Linden is quite durable, does not change the fiber structure for a long time and is resistant to various negative factors. The atmosphere of the linden bathhouse is full of freshness and cleanliness.

Aspen lining is easy to work with; time only makes this material stronger. If the surface of such a lining darkens, it is easy to return it to its original appearance by sanding the surface. Both linden and aspen are used for finishing the hottest and wet room in saunas - steam room.

It is also possible to use cedar for its finishing, however, due to the fact that cedar heats up very quickly, discomfort may occur when touching the sun loungers and walls made of this material. Coniferous trees are used mainly to cover the washing room or dressing room. Pine and spruce produce resin abundantly and, like cedar, have high speed heating, but using this material will save money and choose from a wide range of decorative linings. It should be noted that coniferous wood It is imperative that you remove the resin first in order to avoid a large number of drips on the walls.

Mounting options

There are two options for placing elements when tiling a sauna. You can upholster a wall with eurolining by placing the boards both horizontally and vertically. For each of the options, a certain type of frame is required, which is also made of timber connected to each other with ordinary nails. Each method has both advantages and disadvantages.

Benefits horizontal version are:

reducing the chance of water getting into and stagnating in the seams, since the fastening is carried out with the tenon facing up, which allows the water that has already got inside to drain down;
the frame for this method of fastening the lining is made vertically and allows air to circulate more evenly in the room;
even the highest quality wood is subject to rotting processes, and the horizontal method of attaching the lamellas will allow you to replace only the material that is located below and is more damaged, without dismantling the entire wall;
When laying the lining horizontally, drying out of the wood is less noticeable, which will inevitably occur with any type of material.

Vertical finishing Saunas with eurolining are faster and easier to install than horizontal ones. This method also has its advantages:

rapid flow of moisture along vertical seams in the wall;
when using the tongue-and-groove system, the risk of water stagnation and destruction of material fibers from constant humidity is reduced;
This finish better maintains the high temperature of the room.

Step-by-step instruction

Before you begin the sheathing itself, you need to calculate the area of the surface to be sheathed and choose exactly how the lining will be attached to the walls: horizontally or vertically. The floor and ceiling of the sauna can be insulated from the inside using cotton wool or another type of insulation. Any insulation must not only be correctly selected and installed, but also covered on top with a layer of insulating material with foil to avoid exposure to moisture. Such material must be nailed to the wall before installing the sheathing. It is also necessary to install a ventilation system and a stove, and only then can a frame be nailed to the walls on which the eurolining itself is attached. First of all, they install the sheathing and cover the ceiling with clapboard, and only then they begin to work on the walls.

Lathing

After all preparatory work you can proceed to creating wooden frame- laths. First you need to carefully prepare the timber itself. It can be either planed or left in its original form, the main thing is that the timber is treated with impregnations. First of all, the racks are attached - they are installed perpendicular to the future location of the lining. In some cases, it is necessary to clearly calculate the location of the beam in advance, since the vertical and horizontal diagram locations can be combined on one wall. The profile can be fastened with ordinary nails if the bathhouse frame is also made of wood, but it is better to mount it to the wall using dowels. It should be noted that the length of the beam needs to be made slightly longer than the length of the insulation nailed to the wall.

Next, the racks are mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For more accurate calculations, you can use a plumb line, tape measure or level. If the wall is not level enough, you can lay down an additional piece of board or use a hanger for the frame made of plasterboard slabs.

Ventilation

For the full functioning of a bathhouse or sauna, as well as for safety reasons, good ventilation is required.

The technology for its installation is as follows.

Already during the installation of the sheathing, it is necessary to mark in advance those places that are intended for ventilation holes. One hole is placed near the ceiling, and the second - no higher than 150-300 mm above the floor level. It is better if the second hole is located near the stove.
For the air duct, it is better to use aluminum corrugation with a cross-sectional diameter of 100 mm. Holes for installing corrugations should be placed in easily accessible places in order to be able to quickly adjust the flow of fresh air.

Using foam plastic as thermal insulation material It is strictly not recommended when installing ventilation. Better to use non-flammable materials, for example, basalt (mineral) wool.

Insulation

It is necessary to dwell in more detail on the insulation of walls. The bathhouse is constantly high humidity requires special fastening and multi-layer insulation.

First, you need to lay waterproofing material on the wall so that moisture does not begin to destroy the insulation. You can nail the waterproofing to the wall itself or additionally fix it on the wall surface wooden slats. The wool itself must be laid between the frame (beams) of the sheathing with an overlap of 10 mm.

On top mineral wool it is necessary to lay a foil film, which not only protects the insulation from moisture and steam, but also reflects the escaping heat into the room. Such a vapor barrier can be attached with a construction stapler directly to the overlapping beams of the sheathing.

You can also use more in a simple way and insulate the walls of the sauna using already foil basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining.

Installation

Fastening eurolining in baths and saunas is done only using a hidden method. Firstly, the hardware that attaches the slats to the frame gets so hot that it can cause pain when you touch its head. Secondly, the fastening metal can rust from constant contact with water and damage the surface of the lamella. And finally, thirdly, these fasteners look too sloppy, especially when using very light-colored lining.

The lining of the steam room in the bath should always be done on the ceiling first. It starts from front door. The lining is attached either with nails or with the help of a clamp, since a small finishing nail will not be able to withstand the weight of the lamella hanging on the ceiling in this position. A clamp is a kind of clamp (clothespin, bracket), which is made of stainless materials and better preserves the lining board from damage during installation. The last boards are quite difficult to nail into a groove or place on clamps, so you can use a hidden nail without a head. When driving such a nail, it is very easy to hit the board itself and damage it, so you need to use a hammer. It is necessary to leave a gap of 40-50 mm at the joints with the walls so that air circulates freely and the lamellas, slightly swollen from humidity, do not break each other.

The cladding of the walls of the steam room is carried out by analogy with the cladding of the ceiling. It is better to start from the corner, leaving a gap of 10-30 mm near the floor to avoid rotting of the boards at the junction with the floor. It is not worth joining individual parts of the lining closely when finishing a room such as a bathhouse. It is better to leave a small margin so that when swelling occurs, the entire wall cladding does not deform and “wave” due to constant contact with water.

The gap is made as follows:

Initially, the lamella is driven all the way into the groove of another lamella already installed, small marks are made along the seam line of the connection of the two boards with a sharp object;
the board is slightly removed relative to the marks made and leveled;
the algorithm is repeated with each subsequent lamella;
The joints of the lining will look more neat if you maintain equal indentations both on all walls and on the ceiling lining.

Using slats, you can also trim doorways by cutting the boards to the required length. The openings themselves can subsequently be framed with platbands.

Window slope installed using a starting strip attached to a plastic lamella. In this case, the wooden lining is attached at one end to wooden beam, and the rest - to plastic. This simple option is suitable for metal-plastic windows. You can also use a more complex method: install a separate frame on the slope and lay it on it wooden lining. This method is good for wooden windows, having decent depth. If the slope of the wall is not very wide, you can simply cover it with a wooden strip.

The finishing of the washing room is carried out similarly to the finishing of the steam room, however, the lower ends of the boards (or the boards themselves, which are laid near the floor when horizontal way installation) should be fixed at a height of at least 30 mm from the floor. You can also use PVC lining or plastic panels, which are decorated with wood to create a unified design. Tile and ceramics are also perfect as alternative option finishing.

Installing a dressing room is no different from installing a wash room, but lining cannot be installed near the firebox. It is better to line the walls near the stove with brick or stone. Sheets of metal or other non-flammable coating are often used. The chimney pipe must not be connected to anything other than metal screen, fixed to the ceiling. It is advisable to wrap the chimney behind the screen with mineral wool.

After the construction of the bathhouse is completed, you should think about the interior decoration. This is almost the most important work, since it includes heat, hydro and vapor barrier, which will ensure the proper functioning of the building. It is the interior decoration that determines how cozy your bathhouse will be and how pleasantly you will spend time in it.

It is very important to consider step by step each element of the work interior design baths in general and steam rooms in particular. Any mistake at this stage may result in inconveniences in the future that will be very difficult to correct.

Requirements for insulation of a bath room

The most important quality of a steam room is the preservation of hot steam and heat inside the room for a long time. That is why thermal insulation comes first in finishing. There are many methods for such work, but we will consider the simplest and most common ones, which can be easily done with your own hands, without the help of specialists.

When choosing materials for insulation, you should be guided by their safety under normal conditions for a steam room. high temperatures, that is, fire resistance and resistance to sudden temperature changes. The most common materials are mineral wool as insulation and aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. They are highly reliable and easy to operate.

Before you begin work on insulating the walls of the bathhouse, you should carefully prepare the surfaces. Carefully examine the walls and ceiling, remove gaps, knots, and roughness. All wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, which will provide protection against fungus and mold.

By insulating and equipping a bathhouse, you will get walls in the form of a so-called “sandwich”, consisting of layers alternating in a certain sequence: a waterproofing layer, an insulating layer, a vapor barrier, and, finally, an internal lining.

Preliminary preparation

As you know, the main thing in a Russian bath is a properly installed stove. It must be built before you begin interior decoration. And in in this case It is better to seek the help of a professional stove maker, who will determine where the hearth should be, set the correct direction of the outlets and build the body.

Installing a traditional brick or stone stove will require special attention to such features as the soil on which the bathhouse is built, the materials used in the construction of the walls, the type of roof, and even the climatic conditions of the area. To make your task much easier, you can contact modern technologies. On construction markets and in specialized stores there is a huge selection of boilers and stoves, which in their functionality are in no way inferior to classic stone sauna stove, but in comparison with it, they are completely safe, and also economical and easy to use.

Such a heating device will not require any special skills from you; you can install it yourself, or with the help of a specialist, quite quickly and without subsequent removal of accumulated construction waste. Manufacturers provide customers with a complete set necessary equipment and additional devices.

After the stove is installed, install the electrical wiring, provide its insulation and the necessary terminals, and then proceed directly to the interior decoration.

More about skin layers

Insulation of the walls of a bathhouse, and especially a steam room, should begin with a layer that provides waterproofing. It will help avoid condensation on external walls when in contact with hot air and constant temperature changes. Should be paid Special attention any possibility of exposure to dampness on the walls: the occurrence of mold and mildew not only has a detrimental effect on wooden surfaces, including rotting, but can also have bad influence for your health.

The materials most commonly used as a waterproofing material are foil or polyethylene film. You should pull evenly measured parts of the material from the roll, leaving allowances of about 10-15 cm, carefully stretch the film or sheet of foil to avoid tears and damage, and secure them with construction stapler. At the junction of individual sheets there should be an overlap of 10-15 cm, which will not allow moisture from the outside to enter the gap and settle on the insulation layer.

After the waterproofing of the walls, floor and ceiling is completed and all possible gaps have been sealed, proceed to install the insulating layer. To begin with, sheets of clean, thoroughly dried paper are attached to the surface. To minimize the loss of hot air, the sheets should be fastened with a sufficiently large overlap.

After this, a pre-fabricated frame is installed on the insulated surface. For it you will need wooden blocks with a cross section of 50 X 50 mm, properly impregnated with an antiseptic. The width of the step between the beams must exactly match the width of the roll of material that is used.

A few words about the choice of thermal insulation material. In the modern construction and repair market you can find a lot of options of different properties, quality and price category. But still the most common and in demand is mineral wool. Synthetic soft slabs are also gaining popularity. These inorganic materials are durable, fire-resistant, are not subject to moisture absorption and subsequent rotting, and are also not of interest to small rodents and insects.

We install a heat and vapor barrier layer

Layer thickness heat-insulating material directly depends on the design of the insulated surface. It should be noted that the floor of the bathhouse, both wooden and concrete, is insulated using a certain technology, and this work is labor-intensive enough to devote a separate article to it. Now we are considering insulation of walls and ceilings traditional bath made of wood.

The ceiling is subject to much more thorough insulation than the walls, so the layer of mineral wool on it should be twice as thick. This is due to the fact that the hot air in the steam room rises, and it is through the ceiling that maximum heat loss occurs.

So, the frame previously made from beams is installed on the surface and carefully secured with screws or bushings. An even piece of insulating material is placed in the space between the beams. It should lie tightly, without free spaces or overlaps. The edges of the material are secured using a construction stapler.

Once the installation of mineral wool is complete, it’s time for the next stage – vapor barrier. Aluminum foil is most often used in this capacity, since it not only protects the insulation from steam and moisture, but also has reflective properties. Thanks to this quality, foil creates the so-called “thermos effect” in the steam room, retaining heat inside the room for a long time.

So, to install the vapor barrier layer you will need:

Aluminum foil in the required quantity;
Thin slats for sheathing;
Small wallpaper nails or a construction stapler;
Scotch tape or adhesive tape.

For vapor barrier, it is preferable to take foil with a thickness of 65 microns. This is a material that is optimal in density and strength and is easy to work with.

First of all, you should prepare the sheathing. Since the room of the bathhouse and steam room is small, it will be easy to make the lathing by stuffing slats to the frame of the heat-insulating layer.

After this, sheets of foil are secured to the sheathing using wallpaper nails or a stapler. At the same time, they should be well, but not too tightly, and carefully aligned. The overlap of the sheets on each other should not be more than 5 cm. Since the vapor barrier layer must be continuous, the sheets are connected with tape at all joints.

The main condition for the materials used: they must be environmentally friendly, and when exposed to heat and moisture they must not emit foreign odors of a chemical nature. This is why such common types of baths are not used in interior decoration. Construction Materials, such as roofing felt, roofing felt or glassine.

Steam room interior lining

After the “sandwich” of hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier is ready, we will proceed to the final stage - cladding the walls and ceiling in the room using lining. Traditionally, natural wood is chosen for cladding, mainly hardwood, such as linden, maple, aspen and alder. These materials are optimal in quality, properties, and besides, their price is low. Wood planks coniferous species can release resin when exposed to heat, and this is unpleasant for the skin. If, after all, the pine aroma in a bathhouse is very important to you, then choose cedar. It has high density and low resinity.

The high density of wood will ensure resistance to high humidity and protection from rotting;
The lowest content or complete absence of resins;
The surface of the board must be absolutely smooth, without gaps or knots;
The wood should have low thermal conductivity, that is, it should not heat up too much so as not to cause burns on the skin.

On the installed vapor barrier layer, install a frame made of bars, which will hold the lining on itself. After this, fill the boards one by one, carefully adjusting them using wooden hammer. For fastening, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, the main condition is that the caps must be buried in the surface, so that later lovers of bath procedures do not get hurt in the process.

Typically, the location of the lining during cladding is horizontal or vertical. The vertical method is simpler and can be used in any direction. When using the horizontal method, the lining should be filled from the bottom up to prevent water from getting into the joints and grooves.

Most often, the lining is fastened flush. To do this, grooves are cut on each board and overlap each other. This will provide a tighter fit, which means protection from moisture and temperature changes for the insulation layers and inner surface linings.

Video about the interior decoration of the bathhouse

After all stages of arranging your bathhouse are completed, there will be finishing touch– creating a convenient and cozy interior. This is an excellent opportunity to show your imagination, so that later your vacation will give you exceptional pleasure, and bath procedures will be not only aesthetic, but also health-improving. We wish you a light steam!

From time immemorial, not only the Slavs, but also Finnish, Ugric and even nomadic tribes made a considerable contribution to the creation, which over time began to be called “Russian bathhouse”. In those days, the technology was very simple: a massive log house was used, which did not have any insulation inside. In our technological world, this option is not very practical, since it will require a significant amount of firewood and a lot of time to fire the bathhouse. Wood was once the cheapest material - this is no longer the case. Modern bathhouse easier to sheathe. There is enough information and photos for this. How to do it inexpensively and beautifully? This will be discussed further.

A quick guide to material selection

What sauna lining should I use and is it needed at all? An important question for steam room owners. Let's first figure out what functions it performs. The main task of the cladding is to reduce heat energy consumption and reduce the combustion time from 4 to 1-1.5 hours. Although, perhaps, this does not apply to bathhouses that were competently built using old technologies - from solid timber. In this case, no insulation is required. However, construction costs will be completely different.

So, when choosing a material, first of all, you need to think about the properties it should have. Of course, it must be non-flammable, steam-resistant and, undoubtedly, harmless to your health. Not recommended for cladding interior walls baths are unnatural materials.

The favorite material for interior decoration is lining; a little less often they prefer spectacular appearance block house, or magnetite that is just developing on the market. What, after all, should you prefer? Let's look at all the options in more detail.

Cladding

Builders associate lining with beauty, practicality and reasonable cost. High Quality the lining partially regulates the air humidity in the steam room, prevents the appearance of fungal mold and condensation, and allows the walls to “breathe.”

Advice. Eat little secret when choosing lining, which allows you to significantly reduce the cost of its purchase. Very often on the building materials market, lining up to 1.5 m long costs much less than 2 m and above. And covering a bathhouse with material of this length is quite simple - you just need to make a strip in the middle.

Most often, lining is preferable for finishing the interior of a bathhouse, since it has a number of undoubted advantages:

Saves heat. Lining significantly reduces heat loss and, accordingly, the amount of firewood (electricity, gas) used.
Gives the room an aesthetic appearance, hiding communications and uneven finishes.
Prevents the formation of dampness.
It lasts a long time.

You should also take the choice of wood for lining seriously, because the level of reliability of the material and the degree of financial costs depend on it.

Linden - perfect option for the steam room. Highlighted by her essential oils have a disinfecting and anti-inflammatory effect. It enhances sweating without burning the skin and respiratory tract due to low thermal conductivity.
A less costly alternative to linden will be aspen. It draws diseases out of the body and is not susceptible to rotting after prolonged contact with water. This wood is very soft and cuts easily.
The best option for shower walls would be larch. It has a positive effect on well-being and increases resistance to infections. And floors made from this wood will be extremely durable and reliable. Even various small rodents and bugs will not be afraid of them.
The leader in strength among wood species is undoubtedly white share. It is even stronger than oak and will only get stronger over time. Acacia is not subject to deformation and rotting. Products made from this wood will be very durable and wear-resistant, so acacia is perfect for finishing doors and floors in a steam room.

Choosing a block house

Block house for a bathhouse - the optimal combination of price and quality. This material is so close in its external characteristics to a log house that it is almost impossible to distinguish a bathhouse lined with a block house from a log one. This material undergoes special drying, so it is not afraid of deformation or cracks. But periodic (once every few years) bactericidal treatment is still desirable.

There is a classification of block houses according to quality:

Class "C" - low quality material, processed only superficially. Various types of deformations are allowed (cracks, remains of bark, etc.);
Class “B” - average quality block house, allowing only a limited number of deformations (small cracks, knots up to 3 cm, etc.);
Class “A” - perfectly processed material, without any irregularities (except for small knots - up to 3 cm);
"Extra" class - the most high level quality material with perfect surface finish.

For the interior decoration of the bathhouse, a block house of the last two classes is recommended. Deciduous and coniferous wood is used as material for the block house, with the exception of spruce and pine (since they have high thermal conductivity and can cause burns when touched).

Advice. In a steam room, you should never use chipboard or fiberboard, as they release toxins when heated.

MAGELAN

A self-confident newcomer to the building materials market is a glass-magnesium sheet. It is made from fine wood chips, magnesium and other components reinforced with fiberglass mesh. This is acceptable, but not the best best material for interior decoration. However, certain advantages of this material cannot be denied:

Insensitive to temperature changes and combustion.
Does not rot and is impervious to moisture
Easy to install.

We introduced you to this material With possible options finishing interior spaces baths starting from natural wood and ending modern materials. Now, knowing the advantages of certain materials, it will be easier for you to make a choice depending on your wishes and financial capabilities.