Dendrobium nobile orchid blooming. How to propagate dendrobium orchid by children and cuttings. Which pot to choose

You never cease to be amazed that in their homeland - somewhere on the islands of Indonesia, orchids grow like simple weeds. In Russia, they seem to be the standard of sophistication and require personal care, like capricious ladies. A flower called Dendrobium Nobile stands out somewhat among other orchids. Firstly, this plant is less whimsical than other orchids. Secondly, its flowers do not crown a long, dry stem, but grow along it, which is very beautiful.

An orchid is not cheap, and it would be a pity to destroy a beautiful and expensive flower with improper care. So, let's learn how to treat an orchid according to all the rules.

Substrate: special soil for planting

Before you start transplanting Dendrobium nobile into another pot, you need to purchase a “light” soil mixture, that is, one that conducts air and water well. Pine bark is perfect as the basis for such a mixture. You can add pieces of moss to it, and, if available, coconut fiber. Remember that the orchid does not tolerate acidic soils. To prevent such a disaster, include some coal in the mixture.

For a plant such as an orchid, the composition of the soil is related to illumination. If you place your Dendrobium nobile on the windowsill of a south window, then the soil (and, therefore, the roots of the orchid) will need to be protected from drying out. Therefore, more moss is added to the soil mixture.

If the orchid is to move to the north window, it will have to take preventive measures so that moisture does not stagnate in the soil. You can crumble some polystyrene foam and mix it with the soil mixture.

Lighting and temperature conditions

Lighting is an important factor in itself, even without its influence on the soil. If the window where the orchid stands faces south, or southwest, or southeast, then on sunny days the orchid will need to be protected from direct rays. This can be done using matte paper that you use to cover the window, thin muslin, and gauze.

The plant will also need fresh air, so the house will have to be ventilated. But at the same time, the flower pot should not be in a draft.

Particular attention should be paid to Dendrobium nobile when the plant is preparing to bloom. At this time, if you are going to move the pot, you need to make sure that the lighting angle does not change. Otherwise, a capricious orchid may simply drop its buds.

The orchid must be illuminated at least 10 hours a day. In winter, when the days are short and cloudy, you can turn on a fluorescent lamp for your flower as evening approaches.

It is advisable to maintain the room temperature at least 20 C in summer and 16 C in winter.

And here wet air Orchid just loves it. In the cold season, when the central heating radiators make the air in the rooms dry, you can keep a spray bottle ready and from time to time give the flower a shower. A wet terry towel hung on the radiator will also help to avoid dryness.

Watering and fertilizing Dendrobium nobile

Watering is what the plant needs regularly, throughout the year, so let's start with that. Recommendations depend on the air temperature in the apartment. The hotter and drier it is, the more often the flower will need to be watered. For this purpose, it is preferable to use water other than the one you just collected from the tap. At a minimum, the water must be allowed to settle. It is even preferable to pass it through a filter or boil it. In winter, if you live in an ecologically clean area, you can use water obtained after the snow melts and warmed to room temperature.

An unusual tip from experienced gardeners: orchids like to take a fairly hot shower from time to time. The water temperature can reach 45 C. With this care, the orchids will bloom especially generously. Just remember to blot the leaves with a clean cloth so that moisture does not stagnate in them.

In winter, during the dormant period, watering is reduced and the soil is slightly loosened, all this is done so that the roots do not begin to rot.

Now about fertilizers. Since your flower lives in a rather cramped pot, and the soil remains the same day after day, the plant needs to be fed. Nowadays, specialized stores sell a lot of fertilizers intended specifically for orchids.

They begin to feed Dendrobium nobile in the spring, when the orchid is just about to bloom. Fertilizers can be applied according to the system: after two waterings, on the third.

In preparation for flowering, it is best to use fertilizers that contain phosphorus rather than nitrogen.

Reproduction and transplantation of orchids at home

You can propagate your orchid in several ways:

• separating the “babies” from the plant;
• dividing the bush itself into several parts;
• preparing the cuttings for planting.

“Children” are separated from the “mother” when their roots reach several centimeters. As a rule, they successfully take root in a new place, and after 2 years they begin to bloom.

If the orchid is already “adult” and has grown considerably, then once every 4 years or even less often, it can be divided into parts. In this case, all the “received” plants will soon bloom.

Cuttings from Dendrobium nobile are obtained from those flower stalks that have already stopped flowering. The length of the cuttings should be approximately 9-10 cm. They are planted, having previously sprinkled the cut areas with crushed chalk, in pots filled with damp moss. Actually, they don’t even plant them in the usual sense, but lay them on moss and cover the pots with film on top.

Warm and humid. If such an atmosphere is maintained under the film, then after 3 weeks the cuttings will take root. And after a couple of months, young orchids can be transplanted into the soil that is most suitable for adult Dendrobium nobile.

It is best to use special pots designed for orchids for breeding capricious beauties. Flower shops always have a selection of them.

When replanting an orchid, be careful not to damage the roots. If any root does break, then, to avoid rotting, sprinkle the damaged area with coal or chalk.

There should be a small layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot, under the soil. When planting an orchid, they try not to bury the orchid too much so that the pseudobulbs do not disappear underground. If the flower is tall enough, provide support for it in advance.

The transplanted plant is not kept in bright light for some time.

Possible content issues

What worries orchid owners most is when the plant refuses to bloom.

There may be many reasons for this:

• excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizers applied;
• shaded room;
• excessive moisture, due to which the roots begin to rot;
• low air temperature.

The “sissy” orchid will not want to bloom even if it is in the room of a heavy smoker.

Diseases and pests characteristic of Dendrobium nobile

It would seem, what kind of pests can there be? indoor flowers? But orchids have both pests and diseases characteristic of these plants.

Leaf spotting. Dry spots of dark color appear on the leaves. In this case, diseased leaves must be removed. Bordeaux mixture can be used for spraying.

Root rot. A common and very dangerous disease. Sometimes you can only notice what’s wrong when replanting the plant. Characteristic sign– it starts to go from the potty bad smell. The orchid needs to be replanted, during which the damaged parts of the roots will be carefully cut out and the sections sprinkled with chalk or charcoal. You can also use an unsaturated solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

Powdery mildew. A white coating appears on the leaves and even on the buds. First, it is recommended to spray the affected areas with a soap solution, then you can use Fitosporin.

Aphid. All gardeners and gardeners know what these insects look like. Aphids can be washed off with water. And then use onion or garlic tinctures to preserve the orchid.

Spider mite. Orchids are covered with silver threads. In this case, wiping the leaves will help. alcohol tincture. Just don’t forget that in a quarter of an hour the orchid will have to “take a shower.”

Features of care after flowering

In hot climates, plants may bloom several times a year. With proper care, this can be achieved from an orchid.

In spring, up to 2 dozen flowers may appear on Dendrobium nobile. When the long flowering period ends, the orchid enters the growth phase and the “babies” begin to develop.

At this time, it is advisable to apply fertilizers, and nitrogen ones replace phosphorus.

Winter can be called a “rest period” for an orchid. Even if you use fluorescent lamps, the flower will “feel” that the light intensity has decreased compared to summer. The air temperature in the room at this time can be reduced to 16-17 C, watering should be very moderate.

The “resting phase” is an important time for a flower. Its spring flowering depends on how well the orchid is provided with the necessary conditions.

In fact, growing Dendrobium nobile on your windowsill is not difficult. You just need to master the necessary skills to care for the plant. For this it will thank you with abundant and long-lasting flowering.

The herbaceous perennial plant Dendrobium orchid is a member of the Orchidaceae family. From Greek “dendrobium” is translated as “living on a tree”, this is due to the fact that this plant is an epiphyte, but among the species of this genus there are also lithophytes that live on stones. This genus unites more than 1200 species, which natural conditions can be found in the Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, China, Oceania and New Guinea. All these species can differ greatly from each other in both the shape and color of foliage and flowers, the manner in which the flowers are arranged on the stem, the time of flowering, and much more.

1. Bloom. Its duration is from 2 to 3 months.
2. Illumination. It needs a lot of bright light, which must be diffused; do not allow direct rays of the sun to hit the bush. The duration of daylight should be at least 12 hours.
3. Temperature. During active growth in the daytime - from 20 to 25 degrees, and at night - from 16 to 21 degrees. Types of cool keeping in the spring-summer period require a temperature of 15 to 18 degrees during the day, and about 12 degrees at night. In winter, the air temperature is daytime should be about 12 degrees, and at night - about 8 degrees. The night temperature should differ from the day temperature by 5–7 degrees.
4. Watering. In the spring-summer period, the substrate in the pot should be moistened abundantly, and during the dormant period, watering should be sparse.
5. Air humidity. Required high air humidity (from 50 to 80 percent). Therefore, the bush must be frequently moistened with lukewarm water from a sprayer. In winter, it is best to place the container with the flower on a tray filled with damp crushed stone.
6. Fertilizer. During the growing season (April–September), the flower is fed every 15 days with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for orchids.
7. Rest period. It occurs after the bush has faded, and the timing depends on the type of dendrobium.
8. Transfer. Systematically every 3 or 4 years. Autumn-flowering species are replanted immediately after the appearance of young shoots, and spring-flowering species - when flowering ends.
9. Reproduction. By cuttings or dividing the bush.
10. Harmful insects. Spider mites, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs and whiteflies.
11. Diseases. Root rot, leaf spot, powdery mildew and brown rot.

Features of cultivation

Since there are so many different types of dendrobium orchids, which differ from each other in agricultural technology, because of this it is simply impossible to describe the rules for growing indoors for all types of such a plant at once. The fact is that almost each species has its own “whims” that must be taken into account when growing it. However, dendrobium has several general requirements:

1. Growing any species at home is a very complex process.
2. Each species should be grown according to the agrotechnical rules that apply specifically to it, otherwise the plant may die.
3. All species prefer bright light, which must be diffused. The flower must be protected from direct sunlight.
4. Also, all species react extremely negatively to drafts.
5. Flowers growing in natural conditions do not need a rest period.

Temperature

Remember that each type of this plant has its own requirements for air temperature. For example, they are all divided into 6 groups according to conditions optimal temperature growing. Moreover, each of these groups special requirements to the temperature regime. However, on average, for those species that are considered heat-loving, during the growing season in the warm season, the optimal air temperature during the day is from 20 to 25 degrees, and at night - from 16 to 21 degrees. In winter, during the daytime the room should not be warmer than 20 degrees, and at night - colder than 18 degrees. Types of cool maintenance in the warm season during the day do not need too much high temperature air (from 15 to 18 degrees), at night it should be about 12 degrees. And in the winter months, during the daytime it is about 12 degrees, and at night - about 8 degrees.

Illumination

Most species and varieties of this plant need bright lighting, but the flower must be protected from direct scorching rays of the sun. In order for it to grow and develop within normal limits, the duration of daylight should be only about 12 hours.

Dendrobium is watered in almost the same way as other types of orchids. In the spring-summer period, watering should be plentiful, but liquid stagnation in the substrate should not be allowed, as this may cause rot to appear on the root system. Watering should be done with filtered or well-settled water at room temperature.

Such a plant needs high air humidity, the level of which should be from 50 to 80 percent. In order to provide the plant with the necessary level of humidity in summer time, it is recommended to move it outside and moisten the foliage as often as possible. In winter, the container with the flower is placed on a tray filled with moistened gravel.

Dendrobium transplants are extremely painful, so they are carried out as rarely as possible, approximately once every 3 or 4 years. Species that bloom in spring are replanted immediately after they have finished flowering, and those that bloom in autumn are transplanted only when young shoots begin to grow. The pot chosen is not very large, and it can be made of any material. Experienced flower growers, as a rule, choose unglazed clay pots, and those who grow an orchid for the first time usually plant it in translucent plastic pots.

Be sure to place several heavy small stones at the bottom of the container to make it more stable. A layer of drainage made of polystyrene foam or expanded clay is made on top of the stones. Then pour a layer of coarse bark and carefully roll it into new pot flower, all voids are filled with new substrate. To plant orchids, experienced gardeners advise using commercial orchid substrate. As a rule, to plant such a flower, they take a mixture consisting of charcoal, sphagnum, pine bark and coconut chips. However, it can also be grown in a substrate consisting of only bark.

Fertilizer

The orchid is fed only during intensive growth in April–September once every 15 days. To do this, use liquid complex fertilizer for orchids. Please note that the concentration of the nutrient mixture used should be half as strong as recommended by the manufacturer. If you use a nutrient mixture of a higher concentration, the root system may suffer, which will lead to the death of the plant. In addition to this general rule For all dendrobiums, warm-kept varieties and types require regular fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, even in winter; this nutrient mixture is added to the substrate once every 4 weeks. In this case, cool-kept species are fed with nitrogen fertilizer twice or thrice a month.

Care rules during flowering

Each type of dendrobium orchid blooms at its own time, and the duration of flowering can vary from 2 to 3 months. In order for the plant to bloom in a timely manner, a temperature difference between night and daytime of 5–7 degrees is recommended. This is easiest to achieve in the summer, but in winter the matter is complicated by round-the-clock heating of the room.

When growing dendrobium nobile in winter in order to make it bloom, some gardeners resort to in an unusual way. They do not water the bush until new growth appears. When this growth reaches 20–30 mm in height, and its own roots grow, watering the flower is resumed. After the growth is equal to the old bulbs, a gradual reduction in watering is carried out until it stops completely, while the temperature is reduced to 12 degrees. Watering is resumed only when the formed buds begin to bloom, otherwise babies will develop instead of flowers.

Care after flowering

After flowering ends, they begin to gradually reduce watering until it stops completely, the peduncle is cut off, and the bush itself is transferred to a place where it is always cool. In this case, he will be able to have a good rest and gain strength before another flowering. Dendrobium growing in nature does not stop growing even in winter, however, in mid-latitudes during the cold season, due to poor lighting, it goes into hibernation, at which time its growth stops. Of course, he won’t die from this, but experts do not recommend allowing this to happen. In winter, when daylight hours are very short, the bush must be illuminated, and it is best to use a phytolamp for this. The fact is that an orchid growing in nature does not have a rest period; it is constantly busy with something; as a rule, the flower grows either foliage, roots, or peduncles. If your flower goes into hibernation in the autumn, then you should not disturb it. In this case, stop watering for a while and move the bush to a cool place.

Reproduction methods

Dendrobium orchids grown indoors can be propagated by dividing the bush. The plant is divided during transplantation after it has flowered. An adult large bush is taken out of the container and divided into parts after the root system is freed from the substrate. In this case, first you need to carefully untangle the roots, and then those that are very tangled are cut with a sharp, disinfected tool. During division, it is necessary to take into account that each division should have 2 or 3 mature bulbs and the same number of young growths. The cut sites are processed garden varnish or sprinkled with coal powder.

Cuttings

Cut the pseudobulb from the parent bush and cut it into cuttings, which should be about 10 centimeters long. The cut areas are coated with garden varnish. Take a resealable plastic bag and fill it with moistened sphagnum moss. Place one or two cuttings in each bag, then zip them tightly and put them in a warm (22 to 25 degrees) and well-lit place, keep in mind that the light must be diffused. Ventilate the cuttings every day and make sure that the sphagnum moss is always moist (not wet). The cuttings will take root after 15–20 days, after which they can be planted in separate pots. The bushes grown from them will bloom for the first time after 2 or 3 years.

Types of dendrobium with photos and names

There are many different types and varieties of dendrobium orchids, so it is very difficult to select the best or most beautiful ones. Below we will describe those species and varieties that are most popular among gardeners.

Dendrobium nobile

This species is one of the most beautiful, native to Vietnam and the Himalayas. The length of the shiny thick pseudobulbs is about half a meter; in the second year of growth they form peduncles, on which 1–3 large (about 10 centimeters in diameter) flowers of rich color are formed. In the natural species, the petals are white and have lavender tips, the lips are cream with pink edging, and the throat is dark purple. Flowering in hybrid varieties can be observed several times a year.

Dendrobium moniliforme

This species is endemic to Japan. It is a smaller copy of the noble dendrobium, the height of the bush is only about 15 centimeters. This species, compared to others, is less demanding in terms of care, so it is recommended that inexperienced gardeners pay attention to it.

Dendrobium densiflorum

This epiphyte is native to the Eastern Himalayas. Its drooping lush racemose inflorescences reach about 0.3 meters in length; up to 50 very fragrant flowers can form on them, the sepals and petals of which are deep yellow, and the lip is orange-yellow, shaggy and fringed along the edge. This species has a variety, Dendrobium thyrsiflorum: its petals are cream or white.

King's Dendrobium (Dendrobium kingianum)

This plant is native to Australia. The almost cylindrical stems are thickened in the lower part, and in the upper part they form wide leaf plates. Five or more fragrant pinkish flowers with a spotted lip grow on a peduncle. The growth of the bush continues throughout the year, and its flowering is observed in February–March.

Dendrobium parishii

The hanging shoots of this epiphyte reach a length of about 0.3 meters (sometimes more). The length of the leaf plates is from 7 to 12 centimeters, they are pointed and have an oblong-lanceolate shape. The amethyst-purple single flowers have a heavily pubescent, rounded lip with brownish-purple spots. The column is painted white, and the anther is painted purple. Flowering occurs in June–July.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis

In nature, this species is found in Australia; its flowers are very similar to the phalaenopsis orchid, which influenced the choice of the name. The length of the pseudobulbs with powerful leathery leaf plates is about 0.7 m. About 10 (sometimes more) large burgundy flowers reaching up to 80 mm in diameter are formed on a high peduncle. Each of the flowers blooms for about 8 weeks, while older pseudobulbs can bloom several times. The bush blooms in November–December.

The best species for novice gardeners is Dendrobium phalaenopsis or Dendrobium nobilis.

The Dendrobium orchid is an epiphytic plant that in its natural environment lives not in the ground, but on mossy stones, trunks, roots and branches of tropical trees. Experts say that if you know how to care for the Dendrobium orchid, the exotic plant will actively grow new shoots and delight you with fragrant buds every year. Advice from experienced orchid growers will help beginners to properly care for varieties of Dendrobium orchids and to transplant or propagate Dendrobium according to all the rules.

The Dendrobium orchid is an epiphytic plant that in its natural environment lives not in the ground, but on mossy stones, trunks, roots and branches of tropical trees.

Orchid Dendrobium nobile

The most popular among lovers of exotic plants is an orchid called Dendrobium nobile. In various sources, this variety is mentioned under the name Dendrobium nobile, or noble Dendrobium.

The plant belongs to the group of sympoidal orchids, in which new stems (growths) appear from the rhizome throughout its life, called pseudobulbs in the scientific literature. In these thickened stems, reed-like in structure, Dendrobium stores moisture and nutrients, which it gradually consumes during drought or uses to form young shoots and buds.

Dendrobium nobilis has erect or drooping shoots 45-90 cm long. At the tops of old pseudobulbs, children, or keiki, are formed, which can be used to produce new plants. Like other varieties of Dendrobium, the nobile orchid, when properly maintained, annually forms new buds on mature stems: during its life cycle (2-4 years), one pseudobulb produces from 10 to 70 buds with a diameter of 5-9 cm.

In stores and garden centers you can see many varieties of Dendrobium: their descriptions are so diverse that every orchid grower can collect a whole collection, including specimens with delicate or richly colored petals. Orchids bloom for several weeks or months, which occur in spring and summer. With the onset of autumn, the exotic plant should organize a period of rest, necessary for the formation of future pseudobulbs and buds.

Growing conditions

Dendrobium differs from other types of orchids in its relatively unpretentious nature and ability to adapt to lack of light or humidity. However, it blooms only under favorable conditions, as close as possible to a tropical climate.

For the first time after purchase, the plant will feel great in its usual indoor conditions, since when grown in a greenhouse or greenhouse it was constantly fed with special long-acting fertilizers and growth stimulants. When the supply of strength and nutrients is exhausted, the orchid in an unsuitable climate and without proper attention will not be able to bloom, it will begin to hurt and wither.

To enjoy beautiful buds for several years, the plant needs to be cared for: maintain optimal temperature and air humidity, take care of sufficient lighting, take into account the rules of watering and fertilizing. Based on the advice of experienced flower growers, even an amateur can care for Dendrobium.

Lighting

In their natural environment, Dendrobium epiphytes grow under the openwork shade of tropical trees. Therefore, at home, they need to be provided with bright, diffuse lighting and long daylight hours. When placing orchids on windows, it should be taken into account that direct sunlight can leave burn spots, provoke a weakened immune system, and even lead to the death of tropical plants.

When caring for Dendrobium, experts advise adhering to the following recommendations:

1. During the period of greatest solar activity (from May to September), place the orchid near the eastern and western windows. With the arrival of autumn, move the flower to the southern windowsill.
2. If all the windows of the apartment are located on the south side of the house, the plant must be protected from the scorching sun - place fine mesh tulle, an organza curtain, translucent film or paper between the glass and the flower.
3. In the cold season and cloudy days, when the lack of natural light is especially acute, the tropical flower should be provided additional lighting fluorescent, LED or special phytolamps. The optimal length of daylight for Dendrobium is 12-15 hours. Only under such conditions will the plant be able to produce a large amount flower buds.

It is believed that orchids with white, soft pink or pale yellow buds react less sensitively to lack of light, and if supplemented with LED lamps, they will feel good on northern, north-eastern and north-western windows. Varieties

Dendrobium with bright flowers(red, orange, deep yellow or pink) are more demanding on lighting. It is better to place them on window sills on the southwest or southeast side, and in winter they must be illuminated for at least 10-12 hours a day.

Air temperature and humidity

The heat-loving orchid tolerates standard room temperature and its seasonal fluctuations well. The following indicators are favorable for Dendrobium:

To set buds, the plant must provide a difference in night and day temperatures of 3...7°C. A slight decrease in ambient temperature helps accelerate photosynthesis, active growth of green mass and abundant flowering. In consistently warm summer weather, Dendrobium can be placed on a balcony or loggia, taking care to protect it from cold drafts and gusts of wind.

Dry room air will negatively affect your well-being exotic plant, so you will have to make sure that the air humidity in the immediate vicinity of the pot is 50-70%. Modern hybrids are more tolerant of humidity and perform well at levels of 40-60%.

The easiest way to maintain the desired microclimate is to use an electric household humidifier.

The easiest way to maintain the desired microclimate is to use an electric household humidifier. If the house does not have such a device, then you can increase the humidity level in two ways:

1. Spray Dendrobium daily with filtered water at room temperature. It, unlike settled tap water, does not leave white spots and stains. When spraying, you need to use a fine nozzle, and carry out the procedure itself in the morning or evening to eliminate the risk of burn spots.
2. Place the orchid pot on a tray filled with wet pebbles or damp moss. Add water to the pan every day and make sure that it does not come into contact with the bottom of the flower pot.

Some orchid lovers prefer to place them in homemade or store-bought florariums and orchidariums - glass vessels different forms and sizes. In such devices, water evaporates slowly, so it is easier to maintain high humidity. However, when breeding Dendrobiums, you can get by with improvised means - a spray bottle or an additional container of water.

How to make Dendrobium bloom at home

Young specimens that have not reached the age of 4-5 years are unable to form buds. When an adult orchid has enough light, moisture and nutrients, and temperature and humidity are maintained at the desired level, bud formation occurs naturally. But if the Dendrobium does not bloom more than a year, this indicates care errors after flowering or during the dormant period:

1. One of the reasons for the lack of buds is lack of lighting. Bright diffused light - solar or artificial - should fall on the plant for at least 10-15 hours a day. This basic condition must be observed regardless of the development phase of the orchid.
2. Experts call another reason why Dendrobium does not bloom is the lack of fresh air. In the warm season, when outside temperature does not fall below acceptable values, it is useful to expose the plant to fresh air or keep it near an open window. Daily ventilation of the room is also necessary in the autumn-winter period. Only while the window is open should the orchid be moved to another place, protected from the flow of cold air.
3. A serious mistake is frequent and abundant watering during the period of ripening and swelling of the buds. When deciding how many times a week you need to water the plant, it is worth considering that the substrate must dry completely between the next addition of moisture. And even after the soil becomes dry, it is recommended to wait 2-3 days and only then water the orchid. During the dormant period, it is recommended to make watering more rare and sparing, but do not allow the pseudobulbs to shrink.
4. A good incentive is a periodically arranged warm shower (+38...+40°C). Several procedures carried out at intervals of 7-10 days are enough for the appearance of buds.
5. To set buds, the plant must provide a difference in day and night air temperatures of 5...9°C.

Beginning orchid growers often don’t know what to do with wilted buds, whether they need to cut off bare shoots or whether they can leave everything as it is. Experts advise that healthy but completely bare pseudobulbs should not be removed until they die off. naturally.

How to feed Dendrobium

In the process of caring for a Dendrobium orchid, you cannot do without regular feeding. Mineral and organic fertilizers are the key to the active growth of green mass and the laying of many buds. As a source of additional nutrition, it is recommended to buy ready-made liquid fertilizers intended for orchids.

You can feed Dendrobium in two ways:

1. Root feeding. Liquid fertilizer add to water and combine watering with fertilizing. Dilute the complex fertilizer in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations indicated on the product packaging. The recommended frequency of fertilizing is 2-3 times a month. You can apply fertilizer with each watering, but then you need to use a weaker concentration - 1/3 or 1/4 of the recommended rate.
2. Foliar feeding. Spray the nutrient solution prepared according to the instructions evenly onto the orchid, avoiding any liquid getting on the blossoming buds. Thanks to this feeding, she will receive a large amount of essential microelements. This stimulating procedure can only be carried out in a room with an air temperature of at least +17°C. After spraying the nutrient solution, it is necessary to inspect all the sinuses and growth points, remove any remaining moisture by carefully blotting with a paper napkin.

The feeding regime for Dendrobium depends on its development phase. Fertilizers need to be applied only during the active growing season, that is, from April to September. In mid-autumn, the amount and frequency of fertilizing should be reduced, and with the arrival of winter it should be stopped completely. If you ignore the advice of experienced gardeners and continue to feed the orchid, its usual development cycle will be disrupted, and this will lead to diseases or the active growth of daughter rosettes rather than peduncles. Sick and recently transplanted specimens should not be fed.

Watering Dendrobium

To water the orchid, you must use soft water, the temperature of which is 2-3 degrees higher than room temperature. The best option is purchased filtered water, passed through a reverse osmosis system and purified from mineral salts and unwanted impurities. If it is not possible to buy filtered water, you can take tap water, but before watering it should be softened with any in a convenient way:

1. Pass through a household carbon filter (jug).
2. Boil in advance and cool to room temperature.
3. Leave in an open container for at least 1-2 days.

The last method is the most common, but less effective: regular watering with settled water will lead to salinization of the soil and blockage of the channels through which the juices move inside the plant.

Flower growers do not have a consensus on how to water Dendrobium: some use the immersion method, others use traditional surface watering. For beginners, it is better to use the safer first option:

1. Place the orchid pot in an empty deep container.
2. Gradually add water until its level is equal to the surface of the substrate.
3. Leave the Dendrobium for 10-20 minutes until the soil is completely saturated with moisture.
4. Remove the pot from the container, let the water drain and return the Dendrobium to its place.

The approximate frequency of watering in the warm season is 1-3 times a week. It depends on many factors: the volume of the pot, the age and size of the plant, the structure of the substrate, humidity and air temperature.

In order to prevent waterlogging of the soil and the development of infections, it is necessary to maintain an interval between waterings so that the substrate has time to dry completely. There is no need to worry that the orchid will wither due to lack of moisture: its pseudobulbs contain a supply of water and nutrition, which will be gradually used up during the drying period of the substrate.

Dendrobium requires regular watering during flowering and the growth of new shoots. During the dormant period, the introduction of moisture should be minimized, and with the arrival of spring it should be gradually increased. If you resume frequent and abundant watering in mid-winter, this will be a signal for the plant to form daughter rosettes. With their help, it will be possible to propagate the orchid in the future, but in this case, the appearance of flower stalks in the current season is no longer worth waiting for.

Dendrobium in winter: how to properly care for an orchid during the dormant period

From November, Dendrobiums begin their dormant period. At this time, they must be kept at a low air temperature of +8...+10°C at night and +16...+18°C during the day. The difference between day and night temperatures should be +3...+7°С - this is the main requirement, without which it will be impossible to wait for the buds to appear in the spring.

Autumn-winter care should also include:

• keeping the orchid in a bright, well-lit place;
• rare watering;
• complete absence of fertilizing.

At the end of winter, the plant can be moved to a warmer place and gradually return to the previous regime of watering and fertilizing.

Dendrobium orchid propagation

The tropical orchid is propagated at home in three ways: by dividing the bush, by cuttings or by daughter rosettes (cakes). Young Dendrobiums should not be used for these purposes. To obtain new plants, it is recommended to take adult specimens from big amount pseudobulb or with aerial roots. It is better to carry out the work in the warm season, while the plants have a sufficient reserve of strength for active growth and the formation of well-developed, strong roots.

How to separate and transplant Dendrobium babies

Keiki propagation is the easiest way to get a new orchid specimen. Sooner or later, the pseudobulb will produce a daughter rosette instead of buds. Can sharp knife cut and plant the baby in a separate pot when aerial roots and at least 2-3 leafy shoots have formed on it, and the total length reaches 5-7 cm.

In the future, the container with the planted daughter rosette must be kept in a warm, well-lit place and the substrate must be periodically moistened by spraying.

Keiki propagation is the easiest way to get a new orchid specimen.

How to divide a Dendrobium bush

Dividing the bush can be used when the house already has a large, overgrown specimen of Dendrobium:

• during a planned replanting, remove the plant from the pot, remove pieces of old bark from the roots;
• carefully cut the rhizome (rhizome) into the required number of parts;
• sprinkle the sections with crushed activated charcoal or charcoal, which will act as an antiseptic and prevent infection from penetrating into the tissue;
• Plant the divisions in small pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm (in small containers they take root faster and develop better).

During the process of dividing the mother plant, care should be taken to injure it as little as possible. This method of propagating Dendrobium orchids is recommended to be used no more than once every 4-5 years, since the plant will need at least 1 year to fully recover.

Propagation of Dendrobium by cuttings at home

All varieties of Dendrobium can be easily propagated by cuttings in two ways:

1. Leafy apical shoots are cut off from well-developed pseudobulbs.
2. Old pseudobulbs are cut out and divided into fragments 10-12 cm long (2-3 nodes in each).

Propagation by cuttings is considered the simplest and most in a safe way obtaining new orchids, since the root system is not injured and the plant is not stressed.

Experienced orchid growers use plastic bags with ziplock fasteners:

• pour pre-moistened sphagnum moss into the bag;
• place a cutting in it;
• The bag is sealed tightly and placed in a warm, bright place.

Roots and daughter rosettes on the cuttings appear only after a few months, so when propagating Dendrobium orchids in this way, you will have to be patient.

Transplanting Dendrobium at home

For active growth and the appearance of buds, Dendrobium must be kept in small pots. Unlike most indoor crops, it is not advisable to replant this orchid frequently, since when the substrate is changed, the roots suffer, and the plant itself experiences stress and then takes a long time to recover. Dendrobium transplantation is necessary in the following cases:

• he stopped growing green mass;
• the plant does not have enough space (new pseudobulbs hang over the side of the pot);
• the roots filled the entire interior space of the flowerpot;
• there are clear signs of salinity, compaction or decomposition of the substrate ( white coating, the bark turned into dust);
• signs of root rot appeared.

1. Before the procedure, soak the roots well to make them more flexible. Use surface watering or submerge the pot in a container of water.
2. Remove the root ball from the flowerpot. If the roots have grown to the inner walls of the pot, try to carefully separate them. To injure the orchid less, it is better to cut the plastic pot into pieces, and break the ceramic pot.
3. Free the roots from pieces of the old substrate and rinse under a gentle stream of cool water (24...26°C).
4. Inspect the roots, remove soft, hollow and blackened fragments with a sterile instrument. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal.
5. In heavily overgrown specimens, cut off old pseudobulbs.
6. Place a layer of drainage on the bottom of the new pot so that its thickness is equal to 1/3-1/4 of the total height of the container.
7. Place the Dendrobium rhizome in the prepared pot and straighten it with your hands, lay the long roots, wrapping them in a spiral. Place the plant closer to the edge of the flowerpot so that future shoots have room to grow.
8. Holding the orchid with your hand, fill the voids with fresh substrate, shaking the pot periodically. The soil cannot be compacted specifically - there should be a small space between the roots and pieces of bark for air access. A correct planting is considered to be one in which the root collar is above the surface of the substrate.
9. Give the plant stability (tie it to a support, secure it with a special clip for Dendrobiums).
10. Do not water for 3-5 days. During this time, the wounds on the roots will have time to heal, and the orchid will not hurt after transplantation.

If, simultaneously with replanting, you plan to divide a large specimen to obtain several plants, then it must be carefully cut into 2 or more parts and planted in different pots in a similar way.

What pot is needed to transplant Dendrobium

Dendrobiums can be planted in transparent and opaque pots. Experienced orchid growers keep tropical plants in heavy ceramic flowerpots, which can protect the overgrown, weighty bush from accidentally tipping over. It is better for beginning flower growers to use containers made of transparent polymer: this will allow them to control the health of the root system and avoid overmoistening or overdrying the substrate - the main mistake of beginners.

Each new pot for Dendrobium should be 2-3 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. Don't buy flowerpots fancy shapes(narrowed at the top, cylindrical or spherical), since during the next transplant it will be difficult to remove the rhizome from them without damaging it. The best choice for replanting and planting orchids are traditional pots in the shape of a truncated cone.

Substrate for Dendrobium

To plant or replant a Dendrobium orchid, you cannot use traditional soil based on garden soil and peat. Under natural conditions, the plant's roots cling to the bark of tropical trees, extracting moisture and nutrients from the environment. At home, a special substrate based on pine bark is used, imitating natural environment.

Self-harvesting and processing the bark requires a lot of effort and time, so it’s easier, cheaper and safer to buy ready-made soil at a garden center. Store-bought soil does not require pre-treatment, since during the preparation process it undergoes thermal and insecticidal treatment.

Before purchasing, you should carefully study the composition of the substrate indicated on the packaging. It should not contain moss, peat and other hygroscopic additives, otherwise the soil will retain moisture for a long time and provoke the development of fungal, bacterial or viral diseases.

To prevent the development of infections, it is recommended to add several pieces of charcoal to the soil - a handful per 1 liter of pine bark. For planting small Dendrobiums, it is advisable to take fine bark (no more than 1-1.5 cm); for large specimens, it is permissible to use bark fragments up to 2.5-3 cm in size.

It is recommended to lay inert materials as drainage natural materials, which do not absorb mineral salts and do not disturb the acid-base balance of the substrate: river pebbles, granite crushed stone, pellets or broken red bricks. These heavy elements will give the plant additional stability and protect the flowerpot from tipping over. Before placing in the pot, the drainage must be thoroughly washed and doused with boiling water for additional disinfection.

How to save Dendrobium if it turns yellow and withers

If not maintained properly, the orchid will sooner or later begin to hurt. Signs of the disease are yellowed or wilted parts of the plant, light and dark spots on their surface. Treatment depends on what infection caused the disease.

Root rot

The problem with roots appears due to frequent waterlogging of the substrate or rare replacement of it, overheating of the Dendrobium or overfeeding with complex fertilizers. To make sure that the orchid has been affected by root rot, just try to move the plant by holding the base of the shoots with your hands. A healthy specimen will sit tightly, while a sick one with damaged roots will move freely in the pot.

When affected by rot, the roots of Dendrobium become brown, hollow and slimy to the touch. If only part of the roots has been affected by the disease, there is no need to worry: even 1 healthy root is the key to the survival and health of the orchid. The affected roots should be removed, the sections should be dried in the fresh air, the plant should be sprayed with Fitosporin or any other fungicide and planted in a fresh substrate.

Dendrobium trunk is rotting

Root rot can spread up the shoots and affect individual pseudobulbs. Weakening of the immune system and the appearance of a secondary fungal or viral infection can lead to infection of the entire specimen. To avoid losing your Dendrobium plant, at the first signs of stem rot you must:

• cut out and dispose of all affected segments;
• treat the sections with crushed wood or activated carbon;
• Treat the entire specimen with a fungicidal solution.

Since this disease occurs against the background of putrefactive processes in the root system, it is advisable to inspect the roots, remove damaged fragments and transplant the orchid into new sterile soil.

Dendrobium withers

Withering, yellowing and death of green tissues can be caused by various reasons:

If signs of improper maintenance appear on the Dendrobium, it is necessary to determine the cause of the ailment and make changes to the watering and fertilizing schedule. Softened and limp fragments of the plant should be cut off, and the bush itself should be treated with a fungicide. If pests are detected, it is necessary to treat the orchid 2-3 times with an acaricidal or insectoacaricidal agent.

Dendrobium becomes covered with cracks

The main factors causing cracks in an orchid are:

• excess nitrogenous fertilizers;
• a sharp change in room temperature that coincides with the watering schedule;
• hypothermia (for example, an orchid stands next to a cold window glass in winter);
• rare and poor watering;
• mechanical damage.

If, despite the cracks, the Dendrobium looks healthy and strong, it is enough to carry out restorative procedures that will help prevent further tissue cracking:

• stop fertilizing with nitrogen for 2-3 months (use only potassium-phosphorus fertilizers);
• maintain the air temperature optimal for the current time of year and the development phase of the exotic crop;
• Avoid frequent waterlogging or prolonged drying of the substrate.

Mechanical damage cannot be cured, so care should be taken when watering, fertilizing, replanting and transporting the orchid.

Dendrobium leaves turn yellow if

The main problem that orchid lovers face is the yellowing and falling of Dendrobium leaves. There are many reasons for this behavior of plants:

Cause	Remedy
Natural aging process (the oldest leaf blades turn yellow and fall off)	Not required
Chemical burn from concentrated fertilizers, growth stimulants, fungicidal or insecticidal solutions	Do not feed or treat for the next 3 months chemicals, water only with soft water (filtered or a mixture of distilled and tap water), provide adequate lighting
Lack of potassium (old foliage turns yellow and dies en masse)	Feed with high potassium fertilizer
Iron deficiency	Transplant into a fresh substrate, feed with iron-containing fertilizer, water with filtered water
Lack of lighting for several months	Move to a brighter place or add artificial light daily
The air is too dry	Increase air humidity using a household humidifier, a tray of expanded clay, or daily spraying
Dendrobium overheating	Keep away from direct exposure sun rays
Diseases and pests	See recommendations below

If the leaves on an orchid turn yellow, which always indicates incorrect maintenance, you need to analyze where the mistakes were made and make the necessary changes.

Dendrobium sheds buds and flowers

The Dendrobium flower pleases with its blossoming buds for 2-3 months. But they may fall off ahead of time if the plant is in unfavorable conditions:

• suffered stress (transplantation or relocation to another place);
• lacks light or moisture;
• overheats in the sun;
• standing next to heating system or operating heating devices;
• regularly falls under a cold draft;
• watered before the substrate dries completely.

To prolong the flowering of an orchid, you should not make the listed mistakes. In addition, you should not keep fruits that can release ethylene (apples, pears, apricots, bananas) near the plant. This gas shortens the life cycle of the buds and causes them to fall off prematurely.

Dendrobium orchid diseases

When improperly maintained, representatives of the Orchidaceae family are susceptible to viral, fungal and bacterial infections. To restore the viability of a diseased plant, you need to act comprehensively: isolate it from other indoor crops, remove damaged parts, treat it with Dendrobium fungicide, bring care and climatic parameters into line with the recommendations of specialists.

Viral diseases of Dendrobium

Viral diseases pose the greatest danger to orchids. The virus can “sleep” for several months or years and manifest itself when the plant’s immunity is weakened. The cause of stress and decreased protective forces Dendrobium most often becomes:

• sharp fluctuations in air temperature;
• long-term nutritional deficiencies;
• irregular or frequent watering.

The main signs of a viral infection are various spots, rings, dots and stripes - large and small, light and dark, depressed or located flush with the surface of green tissue. It is impossible to cure an infected orchid. If the virus has captured individual fragments of the plant, you can try to completely remove them and hope for recovery. But in most cases, sooner or later the infection will spread to other parts of the bush and can spread to neighboring plants.

Dendrobiums are affected viral infections much less common than phalaenopsis or cattleya. But in order to prevent a dangerous disease, a number of precautions must be observed: buy plants from trusted suppliers, keep them in optimal conditions, and follow all maintenance recommendations.

Dendrobium fungal infections

Fungal diseases(compared to viral ones) are not so dangerous for orchids. They develop much faster and are always accompanied by the appearance of spores, conidia, dusty or fluffy coating. Diseases are constantly provoked wet soil and frequent spraying in combination with low air temperatures.

The main fungal infections and their symptoms are presented in the table:

Disease	Symptoms
Fusarium spot	Red, brown, or orange spots
Gray spot	Dirty gray spots covered with an ashy, easily erased coating
Black spot (phyllosticosis)	Light spots, diamonds and stripes, which are pressed into the surface of green fabrics over time, darken and become thinner. As the spots grow, they are surrounded by a brightly colored rim (yellow-red, red-violet) and form bizarre patterns
Phomopsis	The same spots appear on the orchid as with phyllostictosis, but much larger. Over time, the zones affected by the fungus grow and lead to complete drying out of the diseased fragment of the bush.
Cercospora	The green part of the plant acquires a “marbled” yellow-green color.

If signs of infection appear, it is necessary to remove the affected parts and treat the entire Dendrobium with a fungicidal solution. Experienced orchid growers recommend using Fitosporin, Ridomil Gold or their analogues. Until complete recovery, the orchid should be isolated from other indoor plants to prevent the spread of fungal infection.

Bacterial rot of Dendrobium orchid

Another danger that awaits Dendrobium in conditions excess humidity, – bacterial rot. It appears as yellow, tan, brown or black spots appearing on green tissue. Over time, the spots become wet, become thinner, merge and cause the affected part of the orchid to die.

To stop the disease and prevent the infection from taking over neighboring plants, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures at the first signs of bacterial rot:

• isolate infected Dendrobium;
• remove all affected fragments - cut with a sterile instrument, capturing at least 1-1.5 cm of healthy tissue;
• treat the cut areas with brilliant green or iodine (charcoal in in this case may be ineffective);
• Treat the dendrobium with a copper-based fungicide, for example Bordeaux mixture;
• spray all the plants standing next to the infected orchid with the same preparation;
• Wash the window sill and window glass thoroughly with a chlorine-based disinfectant solution.

Repeat this treatment at least 2-3 times with an interval of 10-12 days.

Dendrobium Pests

Pests that attack tropical plants include:

• spider mite;
• mealybug;
• thrips;
• scale insect;
• whitefly

• manually remove adult specimens (remove with a cotton swab dipped in soapy water or medical alcohol);
• Wipe all parts of the plant with soapy water, after covering the surface of the substrate with plastic or cling film;
• spray the orchid with any insecticidal preparation.

Traditional insecticides will not help to kill spider mites. Since ticks belong to the subclass of arthropods, it is necessary to use acaricides and insectoacaricides:

• Actellik;
• Akarin;
• Bitoxibacillin;
• Borneo;
• Vertimek;
• Demitan;
• Kleschevitis;
• Neoron;
• Sunmite;
• Fufanon;
• Fitoverm.

The second treatment should be carried out 10-14 days after the first to prevent re-infection. In order to prevent pest attacks, caring for Dendrobium should include treating the plant with the listed preparations at least 1-2 times a year (especially in the summer, when maximum insect activity is observed).

Types of Dendrobium with photos and names

The species of Dendrobium orchids that inhabit the tropical and subtropical zones of the globe are striking in their diversity. But in indoor culture, only a few varieties are used, the most attractive in appearance and most adapted to room conditions.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis, or Dendrobium two-humped, Australian orchid Dendrobium phalaenopsis

Species of Dendrobium phalaenopsis received their name for the similarity of the structure of the buds with the orchid of the same name. Their buds most often bloom in late autumn and last about 4-8 weeks. The traditional color of the petals varies from soft lilac to deep lilac, and the diameter of the open bud is 6-9 cm. In modern hybrid varieties, the petals can be colored white, yellow and pink.

Dendrobium densiflorum

The natural habitat of the orchid is the Eastern Himalayas. The buds are white or cream in color and emit a pleasant fruity aroma. The plant forms numerous drooping clusters, on each of which from 10 to 50 buds bloom simultaneously.

Dendrobium nobile, or noble (Dendrobium nobile)

One of the most beautiful and unpretentious species found on the territory European countries from Vietnam and the Himalayas. Thickened erect pseudobulbs with a glossy surface annually delight with fragrant buds of delicate or rich shades. Modern hybrids can bloom 2-3 times a year.

Dendrobium moniliforme

Coming from Japan and the countries of Indochina, Dendrobium clairvoyant has a non-capricious character and tolerates dry room air more easily than other orchids. It is distinguished by low-growing, thin shoots and delicate, fragrant buds.

Beautiful Dendrobium (Dendrobium bellatulum)

For the first time, Dendrobium beautiful was discovered in the vastness of Southeast Asia. The orchid prefers to settle on the trunks and branches of conifers. Its drooping pseudobulds bear delicate, fragrant buds with a diameter of 2-3 cm.

Dendrobium parishii

This species is distinguished by thick, hanging pseudobulbs, reaching a length of 30-35 cm. In June-July, each shoot produces several single buds of lilac-violet color.

King's Dendrobium (Dendrobium kingianum)

The orchid is endemic to Eastern Australia. Its cylindrical, thickened pseudobulbs are covered with fragrant buds in February-March. Blooming Dendrobium Kinga is light in color with various combinations of white and pink shades.

Dendrobium nobilis (nobile) is a very beautiful representative of the family. During the flowering period, the tall pseudobulbs are completely covered with fragrant Orchids. The orchid has been in cultivation for a long time; numerous interspecific hybrids and varieties have been created. By the way, it is precisely because of this diversity that two specimens of different colors can behave completely differently, it seemed under absolutely identical care conditions. Many species of the genus took part in hybridization, primarily Dendrobium nobile, D. linawianum, D. heterocarpum, D. regium and others. Therefore, as in the case with, nobile is the name of the group, only in contrast to the first, deciduous or semi-deciduous dendrobiums. Orchid in care. In addition, pseudobulbs gradually lose their leaves, so the old plant has a rather “exotic” appearance. Sometimes owners are not ready for this, because old leafless bulbs cannot be removed.

Lighting.

Dendrobium nobile is very demanding of good bright colors all year round. This is the most important problem for a florist. In summer, an absolutely healthy bush can easily tolerate even midday sun. The length of daylight is very important. It should be about 12 hours a day, both in summer and winter. In our country, unlike in its native habitat, natural light in winter is greatly reduced, and the day becomes much shorter. The problem is partially alleviated by additional artificial light. They can also regulate the duration of illumination.

Temperature.

In summer, dendrobium feels quite comfortable at normal room temperatures. It is worth noting that heat is not advisable. This factor can also become problematic for the gardener, since the average apartment is either light and hot, or dark and cool. Air-conditioned rooms are most preferable. In them you can adjust the optimal ratio of bright sun and desired temperature (max +25⁰C). In winter, a cool rest period is necessary. The optimal temperature at this time is +12 +15⁰C.

Rest period.

In addition to the cool winter dormant period, into which the orchid is forced to go due to lack of lighting, rest is necessary at the end of pseudobulb maturation for the formation of flower buds. If you do not provide a dry rest period at this time, the orchid may periodically produce several flowers, or it may produce babies in completely unexpected places, for example, on the top of the head. You need to start reducing watering without waiting for the pseudobulb to fully mature, otherwise new growths may awaken and the dormancy will be disturbed. After the bulb has become round, watering must be completely stopped until flower stalks appear.

Watering.

In summer it is necessary to water generously with warm and soft water. It should be taken into account that Dendrobium Nobile means its roots cannot tolerate stagnant moisture. Before each watering, make sure that the bark in the pot is completely dry. Pay attention to the drying period; the substrate should not hold water for more than a week. During the winter dormant period, it is necessary to significantly reduce watering. At this time, you can get by with rare spraying of the bark, instead of full watering, or it is better to abandon this altogether. It often happens that Dendrobium nobile was kept in more humid conditions than necessary, for example orchids recently. In this case, the dry dormant period leads to massive death of the root system. Therefore, before sending it to rest, it is necessary to take this factor into account and gradually accustom the plant to the variable humidity of the bark. Adaptation is very slow; it often happens that a new root system will form only the next year after the dendrobium.

Humidity.

Ideally, dendrobiums require high humidity during the period of active growth. It must be taken into account that high humidity must be accompanied by good air circulation around the plant. Failure to comply with this rule inevitably leads to the development of all kinds of rot. Orchids adapt well to normal air humidity in the apartment. This makes caring for them much easier. Spraying will only be required during the summer heat. The rest of the time it is better to refuse them. In addition, it is necessary to spray only in the morning and only at a time when the orchid is not exposed to direct sunlight. Like other orchids, Nobile tolerates fresh air well, so we recommend ventilating the room more often. It should be taken into account that drafts negatively affect the health of the orchid.

Feeding.

During the period of active growth, fertilizing with fertilizer for orchids or cacti is necessary. They have the optimal combination necessary for the plant macro- and micro-elements. Fertilizers are applied every third watering. No fertilizing is needed during flowering and dormancy.

Transfer.

Dendrobiums are replanted as needed and due to the loss of its properties by the substrate. How to determine the need for a transplant? Pay attention to how long it takes for the bark to dry. This period should range from 4-6 days. Accordingly, if the substrate dries out for more than a week, it is necessary to completely replace the bark. The only exception is when the heating is not working in the fall and spring. The substrate is selected exclusively for specific conditions. Can be planted in clean bark. If after replanting the substrate dries out too quickly even in the depths of the pot (for example, within 2 days), you can add chopped sphagnum moss, coconut chips, or take the bark in a smaller fraction. These components increase moisture holding capacity. If you need to reduce it, then you need to use the bark of a large fraction, charcoal or other non-wettable materials. We do not recommend using polystyrene foam, since during heating (for example, in summer heat) it releases toxic substances.

Reproduction.

The simplest way is to divide an overgrown bush into parts. Each new plant should have 2-3 formed bulbs or 2 bulbs and new growth. You can also separate the new growth with roots and plant it in a separate pot, but then development will be slow. In addition, Dendrobium nobile can be taken from cuttings. To do this, the old pseudobulb is cut into pieces, the sections are dried and placed in a greenhouse in damp sphagnum moss. After some time, new plants form on the unflowered nodes. After they grow and form their root system, they can be separated and planted in separate pots.

Pests and diseases.

If there are errors in care, dendrobium nobile can be affected by various fungal diseases, rots or pests. Well recommended against fungal diseases systemic fungicides, such as foundationol, vitaros, phytolavin and others. We do not recommend using phytosporin, since this drug is effective only when plants are kept in soil. For minor damage, you can do without fungicides by simply ensuring proper care. You can keep the plant a little drier than necessary. After all, a humid environment is most comfortable for the development of organisms of this kind. Systemic insecticides, such as actara, have proven well against pests. To combat ticks, you can use Fitoverm, Actellik and others.

If you have long dreamed of an orchid on your window, but have heard about the capriciousness of these flowers, start with the Dendrobium Nobile orchid. This exotic beauty is rightfully considered the most unpretentious of orchids.
Follow these simple recommendations, and you will enjoy the luxurious and fragrant blooms of dendrobium for three months a year.
How to make a dendrobium orchid bloom for 12 weeks in a row?
How to ensure the required level of humidity in the summer heat?
How to determine when is the best time to replant dendrobium?

• What pot is ideal for this epiphyte?
• Is it true that nighttime temperature changes have a positive effect on the flowering of dendrobiums?
• What watering trick will help speed up the flowering of dendrobium?
• Does dendrobium need a rest period?
• What to do if the orchid does fall asleep?
• Which types of denrobium are easier to care for?

The answers to all these questions are in our article.

Listen to the article

Planting and caring for dendrobium

• Bloom: 8-12 weeks.
• Lighting: bright diffused light without direct sunlight. Daylight hours are at least 12 hours.
• Temperature: during the growth period, 20-25 ˚C during the day, 16-21 ˚C at night, in winter, during the day no higher than 20 ˚C, at night no lower than 18 ˚C. Cool species prefer day temperatures in the summer of 15-18 ˚C, night temperatures of about 12 ˚C, in winter about 12 ˚C during the day, and about 8 ˚C at night. The difference between day and night temperatures should be 5-7 degrees.
• Watering: in the warm season it is plentiful, during the rest period it is scarce.
• Air humidity: 50-80%. Frequent spraying with warm water is required. In winter, it is recommended to keep the pot with the plant on a tray with wet crushed stone.
• Feeding: during the period of active growth (from April to September) 2 times a month with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for orchids.
• Rest period: after flowering. Each type has its own timing.
• Transfer: once every 3-4 years. Spring-flowering species - after flowering, autumn-flowering - with the beginning of the growth of young shoots.
• Reproduction: vegetatively (by dividing the bush or cuttings).
• Pests: spider mites, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs, whiteflies.
• Diseases: root rot, leaf spot, powdery mildew, brown rot.

Read more about growing dendrobium below.

Dendrobium (lat. Dendrobium)- a genus of herbaceous perennials of the Orchidaceae family. Translated from Greek, “dendrobium” means “living on a tree,” which indicates the epiphytic mode of existence of the plant, although among the species of Dendrobium there are also lithophytes (living on stone). In nature, the dendrobium flower grows in Japan, the Philippines, China, Australia, Oceania, New Zealand and New Guinea and has more than 1200 species, which sometimes differ very much not only in the color and shape of flowers and leaves, but also in the time of flowering, the manner of arrangement flowers on a stem and many, many others.

Dendrobium orchid - growing features

This variety of species and differences in their agricultural technology do not allow us to describe the rules for keeping all dendrobiums at home, because each species has its own whims, but there are some general requirements that an amateur gardener needs to know about:

• breeding dendrobiums is a labor-intensive process;
• the cultivation of each species must be carried out according to the rules of agricultural technology specifically for this species, otherwise you risk destroying the flower;
• from the general rules: dendrobiums love bright diffused light without direct sunlight;
• Dendrobium flowers, like any orchid, do not tolerate drafts;
• Dendrobiums in nature do not require a period of rest.

Caring for dendrobium at home

Dendrobium orchid care

Growing a dendrobium is a troublesome, albeit rewarding task, but it is important to know how to care for your particular dendrobium, because they are all so different! For example, according to the optimal growing temperature conditions, dendrobiums are divided into six groups, each of which has its own temperature requirements. But on average, for heat-loving dendrobium species during the growth period, the most comfortable temperature in summer during the daytime 20-25 ºC, and at night 16-21 ºC. In winter, during the day no higher than 20 ºC, at night no lower than 18 ºC.

Types of cool dendrobiums prefer temperatures of 15-18 ºC during the daytime in summer, about 12 ºC at night, about 12 ºC during the day in winter, and about 8 ºC at night.

Most species and varieties of dendrobium prefer good lighting, but without direct sunlight in the afternoon. In general, for normal growth and development, orchids need twelve hours of daylight.

Watering dendrobium not much different from watering other orchids: in warm weather, the substrate is moistened abundantly, but without the risk of rotting the orchid’s roots. During the rest period, hydration is symbolic. Water for irrigation should be at room temperature, purified or at least settled.

As for air humidity, the optimal humidity for dendrobium is 50-80%. To achieve such indicators, in the summer it is best to take the dendrobium out into the open air and spray it as often as possible, and in the winter keep the orchid pot on a tray with wet gravel.

Dendrobium transplant

Orchids do not like replanting, but since this has to be done once every three to four years, it is better to still have an idea of ​​how to replant a dendrobium. Species that bloom in autumn are replanted when young shoots begin to grow, and those that bloom in spring are replanted at the end of flowering. The container should not be large, and what material it will be made of is a matter of your taste.

Experienced gardeners prefer unglazed clay flowerpots, while amateurs most often choose translucent plastic ones.

Several heavy pebbles are placed at the bottom of the pot to stabilize the small pot, then a drainage layer of expanded clay or polystyrene is poured, coarse bark is placed on top, then transferred from the old pot to a new dendrobium and a fresh substrate is added, which is best purchased at a specialty store. Typically, the substrate for dendrobium includes pine bark, charcoal, coconut chips, sphagnum moss, but you can limit yourself to just bark.

Dendrobium fertilizer

Dendrobium is fed during the period of active growth, twice a month from April to September with liquid complex fertilizers for orchids. The concentration of fertilizing should be twice as weak as indicated in the instructions, since a stronger concentration can destroy the roots of the plant.

In addition to this general rule for all dendrobiums, warm-kept species and varieties should be fed monthly with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, even in winter, and cold-kept dendrobiums should be fed 2-3 times a month with nitrogen fertilizers.

Pictured: Dendrobium Jenkins

Dendrobium bloom

Caring for dendrobium during flowering

Each type of dendrobium has its own flowering time, and the duration is approximately 8-12 weeks. A difference in day and night temperatures of 5-7 degrees has a good effect on preparing the plant for flowering. In the summer this is a completely natural course of things in nature, but in the winter, in a room heated around the clock...

To achieve flowering, gardeners have this trick: do not water the orchid until new growth appears, but as soon as this growth stretches to 2-3 cm and takes root of its own, start watering the plant again; when growth catches up with the old bulbs, reduce watering until it stops completely, lower the temperature to 12 ºC (note that we are talking about a species like dendrobium nobile, and this happens in winter) and do not water until the buds that appear begin to open, otherwise instead of buds you will get babies.

In the photo: Dendrobium phalaenopsis

Dendrobium after flowering

When the dendrobium has bloomed, watering is gradually stopped, the peduncle is removed, and the flower is transferred to a cool place so that it can rest a little and prepare for a new flowering. The difference between winters in our latitudes and tropical winters can lead to the fact that on our dark winter windowsills the dendrobium simply goes into hibernation: it stops growing and freezes. This, of course, is not fatal for him, but it is better not to allow this to happen.

In winter, when it dawns late and gets dark early, which is unnatural for dendrobiums, use a phytolamp to artificially illuminate your orchid. After all, in nature there is no dormant period for the dendrobium; it is always doing something: it is growing roots, then leaves, then peduncles. If your orchid does fall asleep in the fall, let it sleep: stop watering it and move it away from the heat source.

Dendrobium propagation

Propagation of dendrobium by dividing the bush

Propagation of dendrobium at home is carried out only vegetatively - for example, by dividing a bush. This is done after the dendrobium has flowered, simultaneously with replanting: a large adult bush is removed from the pot, cleared of the substrate, divided into parts, and the roots of the plant are first carefully unraveled, and then what does not unravel is cut with a sharp sterile knife. Each division should have 2-3 mature bulbs and the same number of young growths. The sections are powdered with crushed coal or treated with garden pitch.

Propagation of dendrobium by cuttings

The pseudobulb is separated from the mother bush, cut into cuttings 10 cm long, and the sections are treated with garden varnish. Then wet sphagnum moss is poured into plastic bags with a zipper, 1-2 cuttings are placed in each bag, the bag is zipped and stored in bright, diffused light and a temperature of 22-25 ºC, ventilating daily and keeping the moss moist but not wet. After 2-3 weeks, the cuttings will take root and can be transplanted into a pot. Flowering of plants will occur in 2-3 years.

Dendrobium species

There are a great many species and varieties of dendrobium, and determining which ones are more beautiful is too responsible. We offer you a choice of several species that seem to gardeners the most attractive for home growing:

Dendrobium nobile

One of the most beautiful views, originating from the Himalayas and Vietnam. Thick glossy pseudobulbs up to 50 cm in length produce peduncles with one to three large (up to 10 cm), bright, fragrant flowers in the second year. The petals of the natural species are white with lilac tips, the lip is cream-colored with pink edging and the throat is dark purple. Hybrid varieties can bloom several times a year.

In the photo: Dendrobium nobile (Dendrobium nobile)

A Japanese endemic, a miniature copy of Dendrobium nobilis - reaches only 15 cm in height. Not as demanding of care as other orchids, it can be a successful experiment for a novice gardener.

In the photo: Dendrobium moniliforme

Dendrobium densiflorum

Epiphyte from the Eastern Himalayas. Its dense drooping inflorescences, up to 30 cm long, sometimes bear 50 fragrant flowers with bright yellow petals and sepals and a yellow-orange, shaggy fringed lip. A variety of this species, Dendrobium thyrsiflorum, has white or cream-colored petals.