Ventilation and heating are systems responsible for creating a comfortable microclimate inside a living space. But property owners often think about ventilation only in extreme cases. This usually happens when it becomes difficult to stay in a living space, and your health and sleep deteriorate. Then people turn to specialists, who, at the first inspection of the building, indicate poor air exchange.
Why is ventilation needed in a private house?
The process of indoor air exchange is closely related to people’s life activities. Ventilation provides the sanitary and hygienic conditions necessary to keep a person in good shape, maintain his health and well-being. It also performs the following functions:
- removes accumulated volumes of carbon dioxide and fills the room with oxygen;
- maintains air purity by reducing the level of particles hazardous to human health;
- removes unpleasant odors from the room - physiological secretions of the body, perfume aromas, the smell of cosmetics and household chemicals;
- normalizes the overall humidity level in the room.
Constant high humidity is the main cause of the formation of mold and fungi, which are dangerous to human health, and also reduces the service life of electrical appliances and worsens the appearance of finishing materials and furniture.
The list of problems caused by lack of ventilation or its incorrect operation can be continued, but the above is enough to understand the importance of this system. Its type and installation methods are thought out at the design stage of a residential building. If for some reason a private house or cottage is not equipped with a ventilation system, we recommend starting to install it as soon as possible.
The ventilation system is thought out at the design stage of a residential building
Types of ventilation systems
In a private house, the following types of systems are used (a set of air ducts and equipment for cleaning, heating, cooling, transportation, supply and replacement of air):
Types of forced ventilation systems
According to the method of air exchange, forced ventilation is divided into two types:
- Local (a set of air ducts that provide a flow of fresh air to a specific place). Delivery of clean air and removal of contaminated air occurs only in the room where the channel is installed.
- General exchange (allows you to create the same conditions in all rooms of a residential building due to a system of combined air ducts connected to each room).
According to purpose, it is classified into the following types:
- supply air - used to supply a volume of air that can be heated or cooled to a certain temperature;
- exhaust - used to remove contaminated air, combustion products, steam;
- - provides simultaneous supply of fresh air and removal of exhaust air.
Supply and exhaust ventilation in the apartment ensures the simultaneous supply of fresh air and removal of exhaust air
Design and arrangement of supply ventilation
According to the design method, the supply system can be:
- duct (air is delivered to the room through pipes and metal ducts);
- ductless (compact equipment in the form of a valve that is mounted in a hole in the wall).
Set-up and monoblock systems
Duct supply ventilation includes structures of the stacked type (consists of separate equipment that is mounted along the path of the duct) and monoblock type (the parts are placed in a closed housing protected by sound-proofing material).
Stacked supply ventilation consists of various equipment that is attached along the path of the channel
The typesetting installation is usually installed under a suspended ceiling, in the attic or in a special space reserved for laying communications. It allows you to purify the air in rooms of any type and size. The only drawback is the complexity of its design and large dimensions. Supply ventilation of the stacked type consists of the following elements:
- Air grille. It is mounted on the outside of the building and is necessary to take in fresh air and protect the channel from large debris.
The air grille protects the channel from foreign objects
- An air valve is a device that controls the volume of air taken in. Prevents the entry of cold air when heating equipment is turned off. According to the method of operation, the valves are divided into mechanical (spring) and automatic with an electric drive (more efficient and reliable, as they are guaranteed to shut off the air supply after the heater is turned off).
An automatic air valve is more reliable than a spring valve
- The filter protects equipment and ventilated rooms from particles of small debris, dust, bird and animal fluff. According to the degree of purification, they are divided into coarse filters (retains particles larger than 10 microns), fine filters (up to 1 micron) and extra fine filters (up to 0.1 microns).
Fine filter traps particles up to 1 micron in size
- Heater - electric or water air heater. It is mounted in the ventilation duct and serves to heat cold air to the desired temperature. The electric type is used in low-power systems, and the water type is used in the ventilation of a country house, office or other large premises.
The water heater is used in systems for supply ventilation in large areas
- The evaporator serves to cool the supply air. Typically used in a combination system. Based on the type of coolant, a distinction is made between freon and water units.
- The fan is the main element of the system, ensuring a uniform supply of fresh air in the required volume. It is selected taking into account air exchange standards, system power and pressure.
- The noise suppressor prevents the spread of noise through the ventilation duct from the operation of the fan and other equipment.
To prevent noise from spreading through the ventilation duct, a silencer is added to the system.
- An air duct is an element of an air network (channel) used to transport air. It is selected taking into account the cross-sectional area, shape and rigidity of the element.
- Distribution devices are used to manually adjust air flow volumes. They are mounted at the outlet of the air duct on the room side and represent a grille or diffuser.
The diffuser is mounted on the room side at the outlet of the air duct
- Automation system - ventilation system control device. Consists of a fan speed regulator, temperature control unit, thermostat, hydrostat, etc.
The monoblock installation produces less noise, which makes it possible to install it indoors. All its components are selected and tested at the assembly stage. This eliminates the possibility of power drawdowns and other problems during equipment operation.
This design is a supply valve, inside of which there is an air filter, an air heater and a fan. Its advantages are low cost, low power consumption, and ease of installation. Compact systems vary in performance, device complexity, design and size.
Compact supply ventilation system designed for small areas
There are installations with the ability to connect them to a centralized ventilation system. The following types can be roughly distinguished:
- ventilator - an air supply unit without automatic adjustment of temperature and power, the room is ventilated only in the mode selected by the user;
- aerogiver - a ventilator with the ability to automatically maintain temperature conditions;
- Breezer is a compact device in the form of a wall unit that adapts to changes in the external environment, which is equipped with a step-by-step air purification system and has a digital panel and remote control.
Video: organizing supply and exhaust ventilation in a wooden house
The principle of operation of supply ventilation
Air exchange in the supply ventilation system occurs due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. This is a natural process that occurs without the participation of additional equipment. The scheme has both positive and negative aspects. If a residential building is located near a highway or an industrial enterprise, then the air taken from outside will have a pronounced odor and contain a lot of harmful particles. To solve the problem in private buildings, it is recommended to use duct-type forced ventilation. In this case, air will be taken from the street using special equipment.
Supply ventilation with air heating
The principle of operation of the system with an air heater is similar to the scheme described above. Air from outside the room enters the ventilation duct due to natural draft or a fan, undergoes cleaning and enters the heater. Depending on the coolant used, there are two types of air heaters:
- water - consists of heat-transfer tubes and bimetallic grilles, connected to the central water supply or heating equipment through a mixing unit;
- electric - the heating element is a heating element, the maximum temperature of the heated air is no more than 50 °C with an air flow of up to 1.5 m/s.
An electric heater is recommended for use in apartments and private housing with an area of no more than 100 m2. In larger houses, it is more economically feasible to install a water heater, since it will work in conjunction with underfloor heating and central heating.
Supply and exhaust ventilation with a water heater is designed for rooms up to 100 m²
Air heating with forced ventilation
Air heating through ventilation with a heater is one of the modern methods of heating a home. Its peculiarity is that heating, ventilation and air conditioning are connected into a single system. In the cold season, the air is heated in the air duct system, and in the summer it is cooled there to a comfortable temperature. This is a universal and economically feasible approach for small and medium-sized houses.
If a residential building does not have underfloor heating or central heating, an air heating system, coupled with one of the listed options, will allow you to heat the house without special financial costs.
Modern supply ventilation systems are equipped with automation that allows you to regulate air heating to the desired temperature. For example, if residents are away from home for a long time, then the operation of the equipment can be switched to an economical mode. This will allow you to heat the room to 10–12 °C, and after returning to full operation, quickly warm the house to a comfortable temperature of 18–20 °C.
Disadvantages of fresh air ventilation systems
The disadvantages of supply ventilation include:
- energy consumption, which entails financial costs;
- high noise level;
- cost - the price of equipment and installation of ventilation directly depends on its type, design and total power of the system.
It is unlikely that you can install stacked ventilation with a large amount of equipment yourself. Installation is carried out by specially trained personnel. Otherwise, the manufacturer (official dealer) may refuse warranty obligations.
The supply ventilation system has a high noise level
Design and calculation of a supply ventilation system
Before purchasing equipment and components for installing ventilation, their technical parameters are calculated taking into account the size of the room - air capacity, size of the air duct cross-section. At the last stage, the appropriate equipment is selected: fan, heater, etc.
Air performance
Air performance is measured in m³/h and means how much air will pass through the room per unit of time. The calculation is carried out only for premises where residents will be for more than two hours a day. These rooms include the bedroom, children's room and living room.
For corridors, kitchens, bathrooms and toilets, calculations are not carried out. In these rooms, polluted air is removed through exhaust valves.
This value is regulated by SNiP number 41–01–2003: for one person in rooms without natural ventilation, an air flow of at least 60 m³/h must be established. The circulation of incoming air occurs due to single or double air exchange. This term means that within one hour in a ventilated room the air mass will be completely replaced. Taking into account productivity and air exchange, air flow is calculated:
- by the number of residents: L1 = N * LN, where L1 is the ventilation capacity in m³/h, N is the number of residents, LN is the normalized air flow;
- by multiplicity: L2 = n * V, where L2 is the ventilation capacity in m³/h, n is the air multiplicity, V is the volume of the room.
For example, for a living room with an area of 10 m2 and a height of 2.3 m for one person, L1 = 60 m³/h, L2 = 46 m³/h and a ventilation capacity of 60 m³/h is required.
When calculating supply ventilation, first determine the air performance of the system
Duct size
After determining the optimal ventilation power, we proceed to the calculation of the distribution channel system, consisting of air ducts, splitters, and valves. At the design stage, you will need to draw up a diagram of the route of the air ducts. It is optimal if several options are compiled. Based on these drawings, the best solution is selected that allows the required volume of air to be supplied to a specific room with a minimum length of the ventilation duct.
The cross-section of the air duct is calculated using the formulas:
- calculated area: S1 = K * 2.778 / V, where K is the air flow through the air ducts in m³/h, V is the air flow speed in m/s, 2.778 is a constant coefficient;
- actual area for round air ducts: S2 = π * D 2 / 400, where π - 3.14, D is the diameter of the air duct;
- actual area for square ducts: S3 = L * H / 100, where L and H are the width and height of the duct, respectively.
For air ducts of standard size, you can use a table with already calculated parameters.
Table: air flow for round and rectangular ducts
| Duct parameters | Air flow in m 3 /h at air speed | ||||||
| Diameter of round air duct, mm | Dimensions of rectangular duct, mm | Air duct cross-sectional area, cm 2 | 2 m/s | 3 m/s | 4 m/s | 5 m/s | 6 m/s |
| 80x90 | 72 | 52 | 78 | 104 | 130 | 156 | |
| 100 | 63x125 | 79 | 57 | 85 | 113 | 142 | 170 |
| 63x140 | 88 | 63 | 95 | 127 | 159 | 190 | |
| 110 | 90x100 | 90 | 65 | 97 | 130 | 162 | 194 |
| 80x140 | 112 | 81 | 121 | 161 | 202 | 242 | |
| 125 | 100x125 | 125 | 90 | 135 | 180 | 225 | 270 |
| 100x140 | 140 | 101 | 151 | 202 | 252 | 302 | |
| 140 | 125x125 | 156 | 112 | 169 | 225 | 281 | 337 |
| 90x200 | 180 | 130 | 194 | 281 | 324 | 389 | |
| 160 | 100x200 | 200 | 144 | 216 | 324 | 360 | 432 |
| 90x250 | 225 | 162 | 243 | 360 | 405 | 486 | |
| 180 | 160x160 | 256 | 184 | 276 | 369 | 461 | 553 |
| 90x315 | 283 | 204 | 306 | 408 | 510 | 612 | |
| 200 | 100x315 | 315 | 227 | 340 | 454 | 567 | 680 |
| 100x355 | 355 | 256 | 383 | 511 | 639 | 767 | |
| 225 | 160x250 | 400 | 288 | 432 | 576 | 720 | 864 |
| 125x355 | 443 | 319 | 479 | 639 | 799 | 958 | |
| 250 | 125x400 | 500 | 360 | 639 | 720 | 900 | 1080 |
| 200x315 | 630 | 454 | 680 | 907 | 1134 | 1361 | |
| 300 | 200x355 | 710 | 511 | 767 | 1022 | 1278 | 1533 |
| 160x450 | 720 | 518 | 778 | 1037 | 1296 | 1555 | |
| 315 | 250x315 | 787 | 567 | 850 | 1134 | 1417 | 1701 |
| 250x355 | 887 | 639 | 958 | 1278 | 1597 | 1917 | |
| 350 | 200x500 | 1000 | 720 | 1080 | 1440 | 1800 | 2160 |
| 250x450 | 1125 | 810 | 1215 | 1620 | 2025 | 2430 | |
| 400 | 250x500 | 1250 | 900 | 1350 | 1800 | 2250 | 2700 |
Air heater power
To calculate power, you need to know the minimum air temperature outside the building in winter and the required air temperature at the outlet of the ventilation duct. Nominally, the comfortable outlet temperature is taken to be 18 °C. The minimum temperature is selected taking into account the region. The heater power is calculated using the formula:
- P = T * L * 0.336 / 1000, where T is the temperature difference at the entrance to the ventilation duct and the outlet from the heater, L is the power of the ventilation system in m³/h, 0.336 is the heat capacity of the air without taking into account its humidity and temperature;
- Taking into account the data from the example above: P = 44 * 120 * 0.336 / 1000, to supply warm air at a temperature of 18 °C to a living room with an area of 10 m2, ventilation with an air heater with a capacity of about 1.8 kW will be required.
If the power exceeds 5 kW, then it is advisable to choose water equipment, since water from central/autonomous heating will be used for heating, which will reduce the cost of maintaining the system as a whole.
If the power exceeds 5 kW, then it is advisable to choose water equipment
Do-it-yourself installation of a fresh air ventilation system
The technology for installing supply ventilation depends on its power and design. Installation is best carried out at the stage of interior finishing of the building, since ventilation will consist of a system of ducts and equipment that are located under the ceiling or in the attic. For apartments and small houses, compact supply ventilation in the form of a recuperator ventilator is ideal. The unit operates in supply and exhaust mode, and its installation can be done independently using a simple tool.
A supply ventilator for private housing can be installed independently
For installation work, you will need to prepare a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a screwdriver, a household vacuum cleaner and scissors. Installation technology:
- Before starting installation, select the location where the ventilator will be installed. It is recommended to install the device at the top or bottom of the wall.
The supply ventilator is installed at the top or bottom of the wall
- In the selected location, make a hole in the wall using a hammer drill. In this case, an air duct with a cross-section of 150 mm is used, so the hole diameter should not exceed 160 mm.
- If the installation of the ventilator is carried out at the rough finishing stage, it is more advisable to make hidden wiring. To power the device, a power cable with a core thickness of 1–1.5 mm is sufficient.
- Insert a plastic air duct into the hole made in the wall and adjust it in length so that the pipe protrudes 1–3 mm from the outside of the room.
For an air duct with a cross-section of 150 mm, the hole diameter should not exceed 160 mm
- After trimming, insert the air duct into the channel. From the street side, attach the casing from the protective cap to the façade of the building. To do this, drill four holes and hammer in the nails included in the delivery kit.
Installation of the protective cap on the facade of the building is carried out with a protrusion of 1–3 mm
- From the side of the room, attach a cardboard template to the hole and make markings for mounting the indoor unit.
- Before attaching the unit, fill the space between the air duct and the channel with foam. After hardening, cut off the excess with a sharp knife flush with the wall.
- To attach the unit, remove the front panel, which is secured with latches on the sides of the device, and the left protective cover by unscrewing two self-tapping screws.
- After this, you can proceed to installing the rear part of the indoor unit: run the power cable if hidden wiring was previously done. For open wiring, a special plug is provided at the bottom of the unit.
- Place the back of the block against the wall according to the pre-applied markings and screw it onto four self-tapping screws. Then connect the cable to the terminals according to the diagram in the instructions. Attach the protective cover to its original place.
- Install the cartridge into the air duct. To connect it to the board, connect the connector to the contacts on the right side of the block. After this, install the front part of the indoor unit.
After connecting the ventilator cartridge, a protective cover is installed in the air duct
- Install the sound insulator from the street side: twist the material into a roll along the diameter of the air duct and insert it into the ventilation duct until it stops, and cut off the protruding part taking into account the edge of the duct and install the adjusted sound insulator back into the air duct.
- Secure the outer ventilation hood and fine-tune the device. To do this, remove the rubber plug that hides the two-position switches. Perform the settings according to the decoding sticker located to the left of the switches.
Installing the outer hood and fine-tuning the ventilator is the final stage of installation
After configuration, the indoor unit is closed and the system’s functionality is checked.
Video: installation of a supply ventilator for private housing
System Maintenance
Maintenance of supply ventilation is carried out at least twice a year:
- in the fall (before the first frost);
- in spring (after the average daily temperature is 3–5 °C).
During this, a complete diagnosis of the system’s performance is carried out - an external inspection of the equipment, checking the voltage at the electrical connection nodes and cleaning the filtration system. The cost of servicing fresh air ventilation for a private home depends on its power. On average, one service costs no more than 4 thousand rubles.
Modern ventilation systems designed for use in the private sector create comfortable living conditions. Before purchasing and installing equipment, consult with specialists. This will help not only save your own money, but also less frequently maintain the system during its operation.
The secret dream of many of our compatriots is a beautiful country house. Professionals know that at the design stage it is necessary to provide for every little detail, especially communication solutions for the future building. And few people know how to make ventilation in a private house in such a way that it is comfortable to live in at any time of the year.
A well-organized system for the influx and removal of air masses in a living space can provide:
- additional protection of premises from fungal and mold spores, dampness;
- circulation of oxygen in each room;
- comfortable conditions for work and relaxation at home.
- natural;
- mechanical (forced);
- mixed (the first type is supplemented with a forced exhaust device).
- functional purpose;
- method of moving air masses (ducted, ductless);
- device that moves air.
- 1. Since the air temperature indoors is higher than outside, the air becomes light. Due to this, it moves through the ventilation duct to the street.
- 2. A partially rarefied mass is formed inside the room, facilitating the influx of fresh oxygen through small openings located in the structure of the object.
- 3. The received masses are heavier in structure. They are located in the lower part of the premises, which is why floor ventilation in a private house is so important and is an integral part of the air exchange system.
- No emergency situations. Structural simplicity eliminates the slightest breakdowns or malfunctions.
- Economical. Ventilation in a country house is carried out automatically; additional equipment (and with it financial costs) is not required.
- Flexibility. The device can be easily complemented with air conditioning and filtration solutions.
- Silence.
- 1. Oxygen can be pre-humidified and heated, thereby creating a comfortable environment.
- 2. The ventilation of a country house is autonomous and does not depend in any way on the environment.
- To organize such a system, additional equipment is required, implementation at the design stage, and electricity costs;
- regular maintenance during operation.
- exhaust - “old” air is removed from the room using appropriate mechanical solutions;
- supply air - a private house is saturated with air from the street forcibly;
- supply and exhaust - supply and removal of air masses is carried out mechanically.
- determine the volume of clean air required to ensure compliance with accepted sanitary standards;
- calculate the diameter and cross-sectional size for the air duct system - this value will determine the atmosphere in the living space;
- choose the optimal ventilation scheme in a private house (carefully weighing all the advantages and disadvantages of each of them);
- prepare a plan diagram for air channels (a competent approach will ensure effective operation);
- determine where ventilation will be installed in a private house;
- the next step is to install zones for the influx and removal of air masses;
- build the system itself for multi-apartment living space.
- object area;
- number of permanent residents;
- volume of air in each room.
Show all
Which rooms require ventilation?
Without access to clean air, the human body is unable to function normally. In a residential building, it is necessary to ensure the flow of oxygen primarily in the nursery, bedroom and living room. Don't neglect the kitchen and bathroom. These small rooms often contain a high concentration of humidity, as well as characteristic odors (most of them not very pleasant), which require release to the external environment.
note! A properly implemented ventilation device in a private home will eliminate the likelihood of dirt, accumulation of dust, condensation, stuffiness, and will also prevent mold and harmful microorganisms from spreading throughout the home..
Features of the implementation of the air exchange system
Traditionally, experts distinguish two types of implementation of air exchange systems in residential buildings:
From the technical side of the issue, home ventilation systems are classified into the following categories:
But how not to make a mistake in choosing? What kind of cottage ventilation provides comfortable conditions for those who live in it? Note that each option has both obvious “pros” and obvious “cons”. To better understand the problems of the issue, we should dwell on them in more detail.
Natural ventilation of a residential building is determined by the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. The entire process is based on physical laws and does not require human intervention. Its essence is as follows:
note! As the temperature rises, the exchange through the wall occurs faster, especially if it is supplemented by wind.
Modern residential buildings are practically devoid of cracks and small holes, so natural ones, as a rule, do not work in a private house. Inflow is possible exclusively through small valves built into walls and windows.
System advantages:
Natural ventilation in a private house
The natural ventilation system of a private house is not able to provide a forced flow of air, which greatly increases the risk of the formation of fungi, mold, and unpleasant odors. Such “neighbors” not only destroy the building, but also harm people’s health. It is not surprising that in the 21st century they are practically not used. Forced ventilation of the cottage is much more effective.
Forced ventilation system
Photo of forced ventilation
A mechanical system through which air masses are set in motion artificially - through injection devices (compressors, pumps, fans). Such ventilation in a cottage is much preferable. Forced air exchange has the following advantages:
As for the shortcomings, they are obvious:
Mechanical ventilation in a private house can be implemented using several methods. Experts distinguish the following types:
Ventilation of a private house. Forced ventilation (general overview).
If we are talking about a fairly large brick house or cottage, it is advisable to choose a mixed type option. Its main advantage is the excellent combination of forced and natural systems.
Proper organization of ventilation in suburban housing
So, how to properly make ventilation in a house and is it possible to carry out all the activities yourself? Proper organization of the air exchange process will improve the microclimate in the living space, as well as maintain the integrity of all structures. Regardless of the room, do-it-yourself ventilation installation in a private house is carried out in several stages:
Deciding on the optimal system
Photo of a typical project
Professionals emphasize that in a private home it is customary to start at the stage of preparing documentation for future housing. A qualitative criterion for any modern project is the presence of all communications necessary for a comfortable life for people. And in this context, the presence of fresh air is an important component of harmonizing the surrounding space.
note! Not only the ventilation itself in the house is important, but also the speed of movement of the oxygen itself.
Many cottage owners do not perform any preliminary calculations, but equip their homes with powerful mechanical systems. In this case, fans can forcefully cool the interior space. Experts emphasize that exhaust hood in a private home should be natural if there is no need for additional air exchange. Due to its natural nature, it guarantees a natural humidity regime for everyone within the living space.
Proper ventilation in a private house is created with your own hands based on a given norm of volumetric air velocity. If we are talking about a mechanical solution, the corresponding value can vary from 3 to 5 m 3 /hour. The natural system provides a run of up to 1 m 3 /hour. The difficulty is that if the housing has basements, then a compulsory system cannot be avoided.
note ! To pass 300 m 3 /hour of fresh air, you will need a channel with dimensions of 250x400 mm, which corresponds to the standard d 350 mm. However, if you equip a mechanical system, you can stop at a channel of 160x200 mm or d 200 mm.
The video below provides information on how the ventilation system in a country house works:
Ventilation in a private house: calculated data
Ventilation of a private house is based on careful calculations. The determining factors for this approach are:
Advice! Professionals strongly recommend taking into account all household appliances and technical equipment operating in living rooms, since they actively absorb clean air.
Installation of ventilation in a cottage is possible only if all the listed factors are taken into account. For proper calculations, you should use special tabular data and diagrams. The easiest way to equip a hood in a private house with your own hands is to carry out calculations by taking into account the area of a specific object.
This method is most often used for residential properties. In accordance with the standards for such premises, each “square” must have at least 3 m 3 /hour of clean air, and this does not take into account people. To calculate this value, it is necessary to calculate the air norm per area of the object.
Example ! How to make a hood in a private house with an area of 90 square meters? The air exchange rate value is set using the following formula: 90x3 = 270 m 3 /hour. This will be enough for living space.
Ventilation duct and its cross-section
Having calculated the optimal level of oxygen exchange, they select the best ventilation scheme in a private house to implement with their own hands, and count the ventilation ducts. Regardless of where such a system is planned to be installed, in the underground or in the ceiling area, there are only 2 types of air ducts with a rigid structure - round and rectangular.
Ensure an average air exchange rate of 5 m/s, if we talk about branches - no more than 3 m/s. In a natural system, the indicated value does not exceed 1 m/s.
You can read about the pros and cons of plastic pipes for ventilation in the article: Plastic pipes for ventilation
To organize effective ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to decide on the optimal cross-section of the channel. To do this, use a special diagram that takes into account the flow of air masses and the speed of their passage. Before making ventilation in the house or carrying out installation activities, please note that the standard value of air exchange is 360 m 3 / hour for forced-type systems. Therefore, the optimal value for air ducts will be d200 mm or 160 x 200 mm.
Rectangular plastic air ducts in the video below
Ventilation in the house, plastic air ducts - installation and installation
When thinking about how to ventilate a house, many of our compatriots forget that their homes have metal-plastic windows, whose design is absolutely airtight. In this case, care should be taken to ensure that the frame of metal-plastic solutions contains supply valves, through which air masses flow into the interior space.
note! If there is no hole in the windows, you can make one in the wall. We are talking about a standard pipe having a round shape, which is placed in the hole made. On both sides it is covered with protective metal grilles with a small cross-section.
Ventilation of the basement of a private house is carried out in a similar way. It is enough to follow simple recommendations and creating a favorable microclimate within the living space will not be difficult. In such a room, every person will feel as comfortable as possible.
A properly installed ventilation system is the key to comfortable living in a home. Fresh air, optimal humidity and the absence of unpleasant odors are its main tasks. Today we will talk about how to install the system yourself. , a diagram that is optimally suited for each room, and recommendations from professionals - all this is in our material.
Read in the article:
Why are ventilation systems needed in a private home?
For those who still doubt whether installing ventilation in a private house is necessary, we will give a simple example. Breathable air contains about 60 percent oxygen. The remaining 40 are gases that either have no effect on the body or cause harm to it. Our body consumes oxygen from the air and returns carbon dioxide to the atmosphere.
In addition, in a room with insufficient air circulation, harmful bacteria and viruses actively multiply.
Many parents, who wrap up their children too zealously and close all the windows and vents, cannot understand why their child, nevertheless, is constantly sick. The answer is simple - in the stuffy atmosphere of a sealed room, pathogenic organisms feel excellent and successfully attack their prey. They take as their allies the smallest particles of dust, which freely enter the tissues of the lungs and nasopharynx and settle there, causing a cough and a constant runny nose.
Sometimes diseases take a chronic form. But installing ventilation in a private home will help solve all these problems, and the entire structure will cost much less than a full set of medications for treating family members.
In addition to harm to humans, the tightness of premises also causes damage to the structure itself. The lack of normal air exchange leads to the growth of mold and mildew, the destruction of all natural finishing materials and walls. Excessive moisture affects the plaster, which cracks and peels off from the base. Ventilation projects for private houses provide for the specific purpose of each room and create the necessary microclimate in the bathroom, kitchen, boiler room and living rooms.
Types of ventilation systems
According to the basic principle of operation, ventilation systems can be divided into three types:
| View | Description |
|---|---|
| Active | This system works using electrical appliances - fans. The flow of air flows is carried out naturally through channels protected from dust, insects and rodents. The waste streams are removed by exhaust fans. All ventilation ducts are combined into one common pipe. This design is not difficult to install, but does require energy costs. |
| Passive | This version of the ventilation system does not need to be connected to the mains and works due to the natural movement of air flow. Such a system will require the installation of several ventilation ducts in each room of the building. |
| Supply and exhaust | A system that combines the advantages of natural and active ventilation. The incoming air duct is equipped with a filter and a fan that draws in air from the street, and the outgoing air duct is equipped with an exhaust device. This is an economical system; it is enough to install one such device in a room. |
Let's take a closer look at the design principles of each of these systems.
Natural ventilation device in a private house
Installing natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands should be considered at the stage of designing the house. During the construction of walls, ventilation shafts are laid or pipes are fixed if the house is not made of brick. The system works effectively due to the difference in air pressure and temperature inside and outside the building. Advantages and disadvantages of the system:
For natural air exchange, the diameter of the air duct must be at least 13 centimeters. The installation holes are located under the ceiling.
An approximate diagram of natural ventilation in a private house:
The optimal option is one in which a common air duct is located inside the central wall, to which ventilation ducts from all rooms are connected.
Ask a specialist“The fewer horizontal bends in the system, the more efficient it works.”
Another important point is that the exhaust pipe must be sufficiently insulated. If it is made of brick, then the recommended thickness of the masonry is two and a half bricks. Metal and plastic hoods are insulated with mineral wool. This is necessary so that on frosty days the air duct does not cool down and continues to operate effectively.
The height of the ventilation duct is selected relative to the height of the ridge. To determine the dimensions of the pipe, you need to draw a horizontal line from the ridge, and then another straight line with a rise of 10 degrees. The top point will be the desired value.
Important! The natural ventilation channel for a fireplace or gas boiler must be larger than usual, at least 13 by 26 centimeters. Its masonry is made as airtight as possible.
Features of forced ventilation in a private house
Equipment for forced air exchange is in most cases located in the attic. But there are cases when forced ventilation is installed in the basement of a private house. Usually one powerful device is installed, which will provide exhaust throughout the entire system or be placed in each air duct. In this case, the influx of fresh atmosphere is carried out through windows and vents.
Advice! If doorways in rooms are equipped with baseboards, they should have grilles for unimpeded air penetration.
The system requires installation of additional equipment:
- protective grilles and nets against insects and rodents;
- filters that trap dust, pollen and other allergens;
- cold air flow control valves;
- exhaust fans;
- material that absorbs vibration and sounds;
- air heaters (work in winter);
- air ducts;
- automation units for system control.
To obtain the desired effect, you should choose a forced air exchange system that is most suitable for your home. Here are some possible options:
| System | Description |
|---|---|
| Combined system | Combines natural and forced air supply. Does not require special maintenance and is easy to install. |
| Forced supply with cooling effect | Installed complete with air conditioner. It is quite expensive and requires regular maintenance. |
| Forced with heated air flow | The system components include recuperators. They use the heat of outgoing flows to warm up incoming air masses. Recuperators are not cheap devices, but they can be assembled with your own hands. |
| Recirculation system | Requires the installation of complex devices that mix outgoing exhaust air flows with the street atmosphere and return them to the house. Installation of such a device should only be carried out by qualified personnel. |
Expert opinion
HVAC design engineer (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) ASP North-West LLC
Ask a specialist“A large general ventilation unit should be located as far as possible from living rooms. Even very good insulation will not make it silent.”
The main requirement for arranging forced ventilation: air masses must move from residential premises (rooms) to non-residential premises (kitchen, bathroom).
Types of systems and their schemes
It is not easy to draw up a diagram of a ventilation system in a private house. This task requires special knowledge and understanding of the correct placement of air ducts, heat exchangers and fans. The efficiency of air exchange depends on the correct layout.
Ask a specialist“If you do not have experience in designing such systems, entrust this task to professionals. You can carry out the installation on your own, but only a specialist can plan everything correctly.”
Basic rules to follow:
- in the chain of ventilation ducts, non-residential premises should be the last;
- the exhaust pipe must be higher than the roof ridge;
- the dimensions of the air ducts are calculated using special formulas;
- Air ducts must be carefully warmed and soundproofed, otherwise the wind will howl in the house.
Supply ventilation in a private house: operating principle and diagram
The supply air exchange system includes several components: an air duct, fittings and the supply chamber itself. The dimensions of the device are relatively small, and such ventilation will not spoil the external and internal appearance of the house.
Important aspect! Incoming air flows must have a temperature of at least 18 degrees. Such an air flow will not disturb the comfortable atmosphere in the room and will not cause colds or drafts. In the case of forced air supply, elements must be built into the system to heat it to the required temperature. Previously, such devices were installed, but in modern construction they have been replaced by recuperators. The principle of their operation is the heat exchange between incoming and outgoing flows through a system of filters and plates.
In a private house, the forced ventilation system has its own characteristics. Usually in a country house there are many household premises with special functions. Unlike a city apartment, it contains a boiler room, a basement, a residential attic, a swimming pool or bathhouse and other objects necessary for the owners. These rooms have different humidity and temperatures, and combining them with one air exchange system is not easy.
It is for this reason that special requirements are put forward in the house:
- It must be powerful enough to serve the entire house.
- An extensive system must provide for the characteristics of different rooms.
- The home owner must have the ability to remotely or manually control air exchange.
- The design must take into account seasonal temperature changes and heat the house in winter and cool in summer.
Related article:
In the article we will consider in detail the types of structures, the principle of operation, how to choose a place for installation, how to properly install the device with your own hands, useful tips and recommendations from specialists.
Principles of exhaust ventilation in a private home and video instructions for installing the hood
Hoods are used to remove exhaust air. It is especially important to install them in rooms where odors actively spread and an unhealthy atmosphere reigns - in the kitchen, in the boiler room, in the bathroom. To forcefully eliminate air masses, you will need a fairly powerful fan and an exhaust hood directed toward the street.
One hood can be installed on a maximum of two heating devices, but representatives of regulatory authorities have the right to require you to install separate chimneys for each device. It is better to do just that, because we are talking about your safety.
Important! If exhaust ventilation through the walls to the street is installed in the boiler room, it must have a sealed air duct so that combustion products do not penetrate into other ducts and rooms. All seams and joints are additionally treated with sealant. In places where the chimney comes into contact with the roofing material, fire-resistant gaskets are installed to prevent fire.
For forced ventilation of the chimney, a fan with a check valve and a fire-resistant asbestos-cement pipe are used. It is acceptable to use metal pipes.
Important! Under no circumstances should plastic pipes be used for exhaust hood in a boiler room or kitchen; they are not heat-resistant and burn easily, releasing toxic fumes.
Nuances of supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house
It is believed that this principle of organizing air exchange is the most productive. Removal of used air masses and injection of new ones occurs simultaneously.
There are two schemes for supply and exhaust ventilation. In the first case, two air ducts are simply installed in the room under the ceiling. Air enters through one hole, and out through another. Both processes occur with the help of fans. In the second case, the supply flow is located at the bottom of the wall. The fan blows in fresh air, and the exhaust air is removed through the air duct by the ceiling naturally. This system works especially effectively in houses with unusually high ceilings.
We focus on each room - what is needed for ventilation?
As already mentioned, in a private house there are many rooms with different purposes. Their features should be taken into account when planning the ventilation system. Let's take a closer look at each case.
Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen: the main thing is the hood
The kitchen is a hot shop, in which there is always a lot of steam, heat, smoke and odors. If you are preparing a festive dinner for guests or the oven is running at full power, you literally can’t breathe.
Advice! You shouldn’t limit yourself to just a kitchen hood in a private home. It must be combined with a general ventilation system. This will prevent food odors from entering other rooms.
Setting up ventilation in the kitchen is not difficult. Here are some recommendations from practitioners:
- It is better to select the hood body from aluminum.
- The filters in the device above the stove must be cleaned at least two to three times a year.
- It is best to choose a device with adjustable fan speed. This will allow you to use different methods of air purification depending on its pollution.
- You should periodically check the efficiency of the ventilation duct using a burning match or piece of paper. If the flame draws in or paper sticks to the grill, the ventilation is working properly.
- For large kitchens with an area of more than 15 square meters, several exhaust ducts are provided.
Video instructions on how to properly install a hood over the stove:
Installation of ventilation in the toilet and bathroom
The atmosphere of the bathroom and toilet is saturated with bacteria and microbes, which, accumulating in a small space, attack not only the human body, but also finishing materials. After taking a bath, the walls remain damp for a long time, and in the absence of a high-quality exhaust hood, the smell in the toilet is unbearable.
To install bathroom ventilation you will need:
- ventilation shaft that goes to the roof. The ventilation duct must be straight and even; only this shape will allow air flow to move unhindered. Its optimal dimensions are from one to two meters;
- external grille with inclined louvres, which protects the channel from atmospheric moisture;
- internal grille with adjustable flap.
For your information! In the bathroom you can install a natural and forced ventilation system. Forced, of course, is more effective.
Important points in installing ventilation in the toilet of a private house:
- For installation, low-noise devices with a maximum value of 30 decibels are used.
- The ventilation duct is placed opposite the front door. This ensures maximum draft and proper distribution of fresh air.
- All duct equipment is placed at a safe distance from heating devices. Ventilation materials cannot withstand temperatures above fifty degrees, unless it is a specialized device for baths and saunas.
- The power of the ventilation device is selected depending on the intensity of use and the size of the room.
- In the bathroom, it is justified to install motion and air humidity sensors and timers on the fans.
Advice! Before designing an air exchange system in a bathroom, read the requirements of SNiP 01/41/2003. This document describes all the requirements for ventilation in a bathroom in a private house.
Ventilation in the basement of a private house: important points
All owners of country houses are interested in the question: how to make ventilation in the basement of a private house? A workshop, laundry room, and boiler room can be located in the basement of a country house. In the basement, many housewives store homemade canned food and vegetables for the winter.
Dampness provokes the development of mold and destruction of the walls of the basement and basement. In order to create a normal atmosphere in the basement, it is necessary to provide vents or vents even at the stage of pouring the foundation of the house. They are located on opposite sides of the base. If there are partitions inside the basement space, there should be vents in them too. The vents are located under the ceiling of the basement, at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the ground level and must be equipped with rodent bars, otherwise your winter supplies will not be preserved until serving.
For your information! Another real threat to the basement is an explosion of heating equipment if the boiler room is located in this room. Only high-quality ventilation will prevent the accumulation of dangerous gases in the event of an emergency and prevent the fire from spreading throughout the entire house.
The area of the vents can be easily calculated by dividing the area of the basement by 400. The recommended diameter of one hole is 12 centimeters. And it is worth remembering that the effectiveness of their work will directly depend on the prevailing winds on the site, so they should be positioned accordingly. Among other things, when planning vents, one should take into account the characteristics of groundwater, seasonal temperature changes and the amount of precipitation.
Important! To prevent water from pouring into the vents during a rainstorm, install canopies on them and make an inclined blind area that removes moisture from the foundation.
Important information about boiler room ventilation
The main tasks of ventilation for a gas boiler in a private house:
- regulation of carbon monoxide levels. Even if its percentage exceeds 0.2%, this threatens with serious consequences for the human body, including respiratory arrest;
- preventing the occurrence of reverse draft, in which combustion products enter the room;
- providing the room with the oxygen necessary for breathing. In addition, oxygen is also important for the operation of the boiler, because it is in its presence that combustion processes are possible.
An object with a high level of fire risk must be equipped only with a forced air exchange system. Natural ventilation is not suitable here due to its low efficiency.
In order for the heating device to operate normally, the atmosphere in the room needs to be changed three times per hour. Each chimney is equipped with two openings. The upper one is intended for removing gases, the lower one is for periodic cleaning of soot and soot.
Ask a specialist“Before installing the ventilation duct, study the boiler data sheet. It specifies all the requirements for chimney installation. Calculate the boiler room ventilation taking into account all the recommendations.”
All chimney elements are made of fire-resistant materials. To increase the efficiency of the device, a coaxial chimney with two air ducts is installed on floor-standing boilers.
Proper organization of air ducts in the attic
Unobstructed air exchange will prevent the formation of condensation under the roof. This will extend its service life and save you from the need for constant repairs. In winter, the roof will not be covered with ice, and in summer, good ventilation will prevent it from overheating from the sun's rays.
To properly organize attic ventilation in a private home, use perforated soffits. They look neat and decorative, and in addition, they do not allow insects to pass through. In addition to these elements, roof aerators and ventilated ridges are used.
Advice! If soft roofing material is used for the covering, small gaps are made in the counter-lattice to allow air to penetrate.
In the most difficult areas of the roof with a complex geometric shape, point aeration devices are used.
Some tips from roofing professionals:
- attic ventilation should be protected from dust; it quickly absorbs moisture and adversely affects the insulation of the roof;
- all attic vents must be equipped with protection against birds, insects and fallen leaves;
- ventilation ducts must have the same size along their entire length. Any restriction will adversely affect the efficiency of the system;
- When the roof length is over 10 meters, it is recommended to use forced ventilation of the space under the roof.
How to make ventilation ducts for sewers and cesspools
Many people believe that the main task of cesspool ventilation in a private house is simply to eliminate unpleasant odors. This is only partly true. Proper air exchange promotes rapid decomposition of waste and reduces pressure in the local sewerage pipeline. Excess methane, a product of organic matter decomposition, can lead to fire.
To remove exhaust gases, high risers are installed in the right place. They are installed not only in the country toilet, but also in an autonomous waste processing system - in septic tanks and closed tanks.
Important! The height of the sewer ventilation riser should exceed the height of the roof by at least 70 centimeters, and the riser itself should not be located near windows.
If it is not possible to install a riser above the roof, use ventilation valves that open as the atmosphere becomes thinner. The ventilation duct for sewerage can be made of plastic; ordinary sewer pipes are suitable for this.
Air exchange in the basement and foundation
We have already talked about how to improve air exchange in the basement. But what about foundation ventilation in a private house without a basement? In fact, in this case it is necessary to ensure normal air exchange. It will protect floor joists from rot and prevent the accumulation of harmful gases and dampness under the floor.
To ventilate the basement floor of a private house, the same vents with protective grilles are used. They are laid at the time of pouring the foundation on opposite sides. For this purpose, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes are used. At the time of pouring, they are filled with sand so that they do not deform and the solution does not get inside.
How to ventilate a pool
A swimming pool is a special room in which there will be high humidity and temperature. These conditions dictate special requirements for ventilation of a swimming pool in a private home. Only properly organized air exchange will prevent the growth of fungus, which will like the climate of this room. If its growth is not stopped, the spores will cause severe allergic reactions among home owners, and all finishing materials will be destroyed literally before our eyes.
For your information! Favorable air temperature in the pool is 28-32 degrees Celsius. Permissible humidity is 64 percent.
There should be no draft in the room with the pool; this is important for a comfortable stay in it. A swimming pool is one of the most difficult areas to design. For this reason, it is better to entrust the development of a ventilation scheme to specialists.
How to make ventilation in a private house: calculations and step-by-step installation
To calculate ventilation in private houses, you will need some basic values. These are the parameters of each room, its purpose and performance standards for natural and forced air exchange.
Ventilation ducts for passive air exchange are located vertically and go from each room to the roof. In a living space, the atmosphere must be completely renewed every hour.
Ask a specialist“To calculate forced ventilation, you will need to sum up the required air exchange rates for each room, taking into account its area, and based on the resulting amount, select equipment that will cope with this task.”
For example: a house has three rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom and a boiler room. We calculate the productivity for each room in accordance with its purpose and area:
- kitchen -90 cubic meters per hour;
- bathroom – 50 cubic meters per hour;
- boiler room - 70 cubic meters per hour;
- children's room - 40 cubic meters per hour;
- living room - 120 cubic meters per hour;
- bedroom - 60 cubic meters per hour.
Total - 430 cubic meters per hour for the whole house. Therefore, for the successful operation of the ventilation system, an installation capable of handling such a volume of air will be required. You can install one unit or divide the power according to the needs of each room and install the units separately.
An example of how to properly make ventilation in a private house in the following video:
Before deciding how to make a hood in a private house, read the standards SNiP 02/31/2001 and ABOK 2/1/2008. They suggest using it to calculate the air exchange rate. The indicators in these documents differ somewhat, so for independent calculations it is better to choose a larger value.
Features of do-it-yourself ventilation schemes in a private house, depending on the specifics of the building design
- If the air exchange system is combined into one, the design of the ventilation system in a private house should provide for the movement of air from “clean” rooms to “dirty” ones. That is, from living rooms to the bathroom, boiler room and kitchen.
- Supply valves are placed in every room where there is no hood.
- If the building has two or more floors, ventilation ducts are placed according to the basic principles.
- Natural ventilation through vents is provided for the basement, basement, and foundation.
- Passive ventilation exhaust ducts are located strictly vertically.
- For uniform draft, the exhaust channels must be of the same length without narrowing or widening.
To minimize heat loss, ventilation shafts are carefully insulated, especially in places where they open onto the street.
Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in the house
Some difficulties may arise during the work. The main problem is the weight of the equipment for forced ventilation. Sometimes one craftsman is not able to lift and install the unit. That is why take care in advance of an assistant and a lifting mechanism that will make the task easier. You can assemble the unit step by step. The structural units are assembled on the ground and installed sequentially according to the diagram. Do-it-yourself supply and exhaust ventilation is installed using some special equipment.
In a frame house the task is greatly simplified. Installing fresh air ventilation with your own hands will only require the use of a stepladder, drill and jigsaw.
Features of installation work
If ventilation in a private house passes through brick walls, it is better to install ventilation ducts during the construction process, so as not to have to deal with labor-intensive and expensive drilling later. Use templates made of cardboard or wood during the laying process so that all air ducts have the same cross-section. Lay out the inside of the air duct with solid bricks, carefully sealing all joints.
To bring the ventilation outlet to the roof of a private house, you can use asbestos-cement pipes. They are connected to the ventilation duct in the wall and carefully secured, cementing the entire structure.
Important! Make sure that the cross-section at the joints of the ventilation duct does not change. To do this, remove excess solution and make sure that the inner surface of the air duct is smooth.
And, of course, do not forget about your own safety while working:
- do not work on the roof in icy or rainy weather;
- if the roof slope is more than 20 degrees, use insurance;
- when drilling walls, use a hidden wiring sensor;
- When using a jigsaw or drill, use protective glasses and gloves.
How to choose pipes for ventilation
When choosing pipes, the following basic requirements should be taken into account:
- section size;
- heat resistance;
- tightness;
- compliance with sanitary standards.
Round pipes are an easily available material with good aerodynamics. Most often, ventilation in a private house is made from sewer pipes. Air ducts with a square and rectangular cross-section are more difficult to find, but you can make them yourself from a stainless steel sheet. It is easier to install such pipes for ventilation in private houses in right angles and under the ceiling.
Now about the pipe material. Galvanized steel air ducts are resistant to corrosion and temperature changes. Stainless steel is suitable for hoods in “hot” rooms – boiler rooms and kitchens. A plastic vent hood is the cheapest option and is ideal for wet areas.
Article
Air exchange is necessary for any building. The cottage is no exception. Even in a wooden house, ventilation is important, because for its cladding and insulation, structures made not only of wood are used.
If this moment is missed, dampness will accumulate in the premises and conditions will be created for the development of unnecessary microflora, including mold fungi.
For this reason, even at the stage of designing a house, in order to create a healthy atmosphere for people and extend the life of the building, it is important to think through the ventilation system, choosing the right type and making calculations.
Depending on the complexity of the device and the method of supplying and removing air from the premises, ventilation is divided into three types.
Natural ventilation
This option is an air exchange system that occurs independently according to the laws of physics: due to the temperature difference inside the house and outside, or due to the creation of conditions for the occurrence of a through wind.
This option is the simplest and is carried out due to the presence of two elements:
- a vertical ventilation duct, which opens into the room on one side and outside on the other;
- window and door openings.
The advantages of such ventilation include:
- simplicity;
- low installation costs;
- independence from electricity;
- saturating the room with natural air.
However, it is precisely with the last point that the negative aspects of such a system:
- risk of excessive cooling of the air in the house;
- entry of dust, fumes and other pollutants from the street into residential premises.
Therefore, natural ventilation in a private house is recommended to be used only in ecologically clean areas remote from the city.
Forced ventilation
If the street air leaves much to be desired, then you should think about a more expensive, but at the same time reliable and safe air exchange option. We are talking about supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house. The essence of its work is that air is forcibly taken from the street, subjected to filtration, and, if necessary, humidification and heating.
The treated air masses enter the bedrooms, living room, kitchen and other rooms of the house through special ventilation ducts distributed throughout the house, and are removed from the rooms using an exhaust system.
The owner of the house can control such ventilation using a remote control, or control and adjustment is carried out automatically.
Mixed ventilation
This is a hybrid of the two systems described above, with a small caveat. A fan is often needed not at the stage of air intake from outside, but, on the contrary, for forced evacuation of air masses. This is usually required in bathrooms and kitchens, as well as in boiler rooms. An example is the familiar kitchen hood.
Any of these systems can be organized in your home either independently or by specialists.
Installing ventilation in a private house with your own hands
The installation of an exhaust system inside the house must be carried out during construction work. The arrangement of home ventilation includes several points:
- selection of system type;
- selection of the type of exhaust shafts;
- project preparation;
- direct installation.
The last stage is quite simple, especially for the natural system. The main thing is to do all the preparatory work correctly.
Which ventilation system to choose?
In addition to the environmental situation of the area in which you plan to build a house, to select the type of ventilation system you need to know what material will be used for the construction of the building.
Natural air exchange can be used in clean areas for a small house built from:
- bricks;
- wooden beam or log;
- foam block;
- cinder block;
- gas block;
- expanded clay block;
- ceramic block.
As an option for natural ventilation for a large house, which has a bathroom and an actively used kitchen, there is a mixed type with the installation of elements of a forced system.
In any case, when choosing natural ventilation, care must be taken to ensure there is an air flow either through gaps in windows, or through supply valves located in window frames or in walls facing the street.
If the house is of impressive size and/or is not located in the cleanest area, then you cannot do without a forced ventilation system. It is also used when the structure is made using Canadian technology, as well as from such innovative materials as:
- Sandwich panels;
- MDM panels;
- SOTA panels;
- 3D panels;
- SIP panels;
- expanded polystyrene concrete;
- vacuum panels.
After choosing the type of system, you need to decide on the type of duct.
Types of ventilation pipes
Pipelines used in air exchange systems may vary in cross-sectional shape and the material from which they are made. An important parameter is the cost of the product, but it’s not worth saving thoughtlessly and it’s better First of all, pay attention to the parameters and quality of the pipes.
- The shape of the pipe can most often be round or square (rectangular). Spiral air ducts have better aerodynamics. Rectangular air ducts with a rectangular or square cut are heavy and can create noise, but they are easier to install and hide when finishing a room due to the compactness of such products, which makes them more popular for use in private homes. Round air ducts are preferred for ventilation in industries where practicality is more important than aesthetics.
- Ventilation ducts can be rigid or flexible. The former are easy to operate and install, and are also more reliable, but they are heavier and require the use of fastenings that can securely hold them. Flexible products are metal or plastic corrugated hoses that are light in weight and easy to operate and install. But the inner surface of such an air duct is not smooth, and this increases aerodynamic resistance, which reduces the speed of air flow and leads to the accumulation of pollution. The corrugated hose is used in areas where it is necessary to turn the air duct several times, and also when there is no need for a high flow rate. Flexible ductwork is often used for kitchen hoods.
- Another important difference is the material from which the pipes are made. Plastic air ducts are often used in the construction of forced exhaust. These products have a smooth inner surface and are resistant to aggressive environments. They are also easy to install. However, the disadvantage of plastic is static electricity, which attracts dust to the inner surface of the pipe.
Plastic on metal base more advanced, does not require an additional thermal insulation layer. The main disadvantage is the high price.
Galvanized stainless steel air ducts are heat-resistant, they are heavier and more massive and are more often used in industrial enterprises. Galvanized stainless steel pipe tolerates high humidity well.
When comparing metal or plastic, then it is better to focus on polymer products, since they do not create noise when air turbulence occurs, are easier to install and cheaper, and also look more aesthetically pleasing. Sometimes they even use plastic sewer pipes rather than ventilation pipes to create ventilation at home. This is quite acceptable if you make smooth transitions at the pipe joints. But plastic is not fire resistant, so it cannot be used near chimneys.
Drawing up a project: how to properly make ventilation in a private house?
Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to make a drawing of the ventilation system of the house indicating the direction of movement of air masses, that is, where the air enters the room and how it is removed. It is better to entrust this to professionals, especially if we are talking about forced air exchange.
You can draw a natural ventilation diagram yourself. To do this, you need to take into account the universal rule. According to it, the room with the dirtiest air should be at the end of the chain. It is for this reason that the air outlet hole is placed in the kitchen or bathroom. The place of influx during natural ventilation is most often windows during ventilation, valves in window frames or walls. The air duct opening through which exhaust air will be removed is brought to the roof to a certain height.
At the system design stage, it is also important to calculate air exchange and, accordingly, the required pipeline cross-section. It is better to leave this work to specialists, especially when it comes to forced air exchange. The basis of a natural exhaust system is made up of vertical channels, the determination of the cross-section, height and number of which is reduced to the design stage.
When calculating, air exchange rate indicators are most often used. It takes into account how many times within an hour it is necessary to completely replace the indoor air. When calculating this indicator for a private house, you need to perform several actions:
- Determine the volume of each room in the house by multiplying the area and height of each of them.
- After this, you should calculate the air exchange rate for each room using the formula:
L=n*V, Where
L– required performance;
n– multiplicity of premises, which is a standardized indicator specified in Appendix 4 of SNiP 2.08.01-89* “Residential buildings” (FIGURE 1);
V– volume of the room.
The table indicates standards for either inflow or outflow of air, and in some cases simply indicates the recommended volume of air exchange.
For example, there is a bedroom whose area is 18 m2 and the ceiling height is 2.5 m. In accordance with the standards, the multiplicity for this room is 1. Thus, the ventilation performance is equal to the volume of the room, which can be calculated by multiplying the height by the area. In our case, L=45 m 3 /h.
You can also calculate air exchange by area, for example, for rooms that are not listed in the table. According to this calculation, for every 1 m 2 every hour you need to supply 3 m 3 of clean air. For the same bedroom, which is described in the previous example, the amount of air exchange over the area is 54 m 3 / h.
The performance values obtained for all rooms are summed up. At the end, the total inflow volume is compared with the total outflow volume. These indicators are rarely equal, but the larger one is selected and used to calculate the ventilation ducts.
The height of the shaft for natural ventilation depends on the height of the building itself. To simplify the determination of the number of channels, you can use the table provided for a standard air duct with a cross-sectional area of 204 cm 2. Using the simple proportion method, you can calculate the capacity for channels of any area. So, a pipe 4 meters long and 15 cm in diameter can pass about 33 m 3 per hour.
The previously calculated total volume of air exchange for the house will need to be divided by the throughput. The result will be the number of channels. The system's air ducts must be distributed in rooms such as a boiler room, bathroom, kitchen, etc.
This is a very simplified method of calculation. Professionals also take into account other parameters that affect efficiency, for example, the thermal insulation of the ventilation shaft, as well as the strength and direction of the wind.
To reduce the influence of the last factor, it is necessary to correctly position the ventilation shaft exit relative to the roof ridge. If the roof slope is less than 12 degrees, then the exit should rise above the ridge by 0.6 m. For pitched roofs, the height of the ventilation shaft depends on the distance to the ridge:
- if the pipe is located at a distance of less than 1 m from the highest point of the pitched roof, then it should rise at least 0.5 m from the ridge;
- at a distance of 1.5-3 m, the shaft exit should be at the level of the ridge;
- at a greater distance, the mouth should exit on a straight line, which is drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon.
Insulating the channels helps to avoid a decrease in draft during cooling and condensation in the pipe. This will also help increase vibration protection and sound insulation.
How to avoid mistakes when installing ventilation? Watch the following video:
These are the basic conditions that must be met for proper and timely arrangement. But even if the house has already been built, and the old air exchange system cannot cope, there is a way out.
Wall supply valve for room ventilation
You can improve indoor air exchange using an inlet valve and an exhaust outlet. This is a good solution when proper ventilation is not possible.
Supply device, which It is better to install near heating equipment, is equipped with a check valve that allows the outside air to pass through and remove dust. Due to the proximity to the battery, the air flows are heated.
The air is exhausted to the street using special hoods that run on electricity.
Both the wall supply valve and the exhaust hood are built into prepared through holes of the required diameter, made in the wall facing the street.
Cost of ventilation in a private house
It is impossible to state the number unambiguously. It all depends on the area of the house, the type of system and the cost of consumables, design and installation services. The last factor can be eliminated with independent arrangement.
If we are talking about installing natural ventilation on your own, then its final cost depends on the price of pipelines, ventilation grilles and other accessories.
So, a meter-long plastic channel with a diameter of 150 mm will cost about 400 rubles, and fittings for it, depending on the type, cost on average 150-250 rubles. Exhaust fans, for example, for a bathroom cost from 300 to 1000 rubles. Equipment for forced ventilation is much more expensive.
If you order work from specialists, then to provide a country house with an air exchange system you will have to pay from 1,500 to 4,000 rubles per 1 m 2 of space.
A project separately can cost about 300-400 rubles per 1 m2. But if installing a natural system yourself is not so difficult, then it is better to entrust the design to specialists, as this will significantly reduce the risks of ending up with an ineffective system. But for houses inside the urban system, it is better to choose forced air exchange, for the design and installation of which it is strongly recommended to contact a reliable specialized organization.
Natural ventilation channels
For effective ventilation, Each room of the house must have two ventilation devices: one is for air supply, the other is for removing air from the room.
Every room in a house or apartment equipped with a supply and exhaust natural ventilation device according to one of three options:
- Supply valve in a window or outside wall for air flow. Transfer hole into an adjacent room with an exhaust duct for air removal (hole in the door or internal wall, partition).
- For air flow - overflow hole from an adjacent room with an inlet valve, and exhaust duct
- Inlet valve for inflow, And exhaust duct ventilation to remove air.
Check whether in the house or apartment where you currently live, whether all rooms have supply and exhaust ventilation devices?!
In which rooms should exhaust ventilation ducts be installed?
Exhaust ducts for natural ventilation must be provided from the following areas of the house:
- Sanitary facilities - bathroom, toilet, laundry room.
- Kitchens.
- Dressing room, storage room - if the doors of the premises open into the living room. If the doors open onto a corridor (hall, kitchen), then you can do one of two things: arrange an exhaust duct from the premises or install a supply valve in a wall or window.
- The boiler room must have both a ventilation duct and a supply valve.
- From rooms separated from rooms with a ventilation duct by more than two doors.
- On the floor above the first, if there are entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, ventilation ducts are made from the rooms indicated above, and/or from the corridor, hall.
- On the floor above the first, in the absence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, a ventilation duct and a supply valve are installed in each room of the floor.
In other rooms of the house that do not have natural ventilation exhaust ducts, be sure to install a supply valve in a window or wall and a flow hole into the adjacent room.
In addition, natural ventilation exhaust ducts are used for ventilation:
- Sewer pipe riser.
Building rules (clause 6.5.8 SP 60.13330.2016) require that in residential buildings, for premises housing gas equipment (gas boilers, hot water heaters, kitchen stoves, etc.), provide mechanical forced exhaust ventilation and natural or mechanical forced ventilation.
Location and dimensions of ventilation ducts
The minimum side size of the natural ventilation channel is 10 cm., and the minimum cross-sectional area is 0.016 m 2., which approximately corresponds to the diameter of a standard ventilation duct pipe - 150 mm.
A channel of minimal size will provide air exhaust in a volume of 30 m 3 /hour with a vertical pipe length of more than 3 m. To increase the performance of the hood, the cross-sectional area of the channel or the length of the channel is increased. Channels less than 2 long m. do not provide the necessary intensity of natural ventilation.
In practice, the length of the ventilation duct on a floor is usually determined by design considerations - the number and height of the upper floors located above, the height of the attic, the length of the pipe above the roof. On the floor, the length of all channels must be the same. This is done so that the traction force in each channel on the floor is approximately the same.
The cross-sectional dimensions of the channels on the floor are often made the same, but for design reasons - it’s more convenient. The performance of the ventilation channel in a particular room on the floor is adjusted by choosing the size of the ventilation grille.
Ventilation ducts from the premises of the house on different floors are placed side by side, combining them into a block of ventilation ducts.
For design reasons, they try to lay several ventilation ducts from rooms on the same floor side by side, in one place - to create a block of ventilation ducts.
A block of ventilation ducts in stone houses is usually placed inside the load-bearing internal wall of the house or attached to the wall.
The block is laid out from masonry materials, for example, brick. In brickwork, it is convenient to make channels with a cross-section that is a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the joints - 140x140 mm. (1/2 x 1/2 brick, 196 cm 2) or 140x270 mm. (1/2 x 1 brick, 378 cm 2)
Double-channel expanded clay concrete ventilation block 390x190x188 mm. Flow area of one channel 168 cm 2 
Concrete blocks for laying ventilation ducts in a private house. Block height 33 cm., width 25 cm., wall thickness 4 cm. The flow area of one channel is 12x17 cm. (204 cm 2)
They produce hollow concrete blocks specially designed for laying ventilation ducts.
A block of ventilation ducts made of masonry materials must be supported on a foundation or on a reinforced concrete floor.
In other cases, for example, in wooden or frame houses, a block of ventilation ducts is assembled from plastic or galvanized steel pipes. The block of pipes is covered with a box.
How to combine several channels into one channel
In a private house, the number of channels is small, so there is no need to combine air flows from several channels (rooms or floors) into one, as is often done in apartment buildings. Each natural ventilation channel in a private house should begin in the room and end at the head on the roof. Any combination of two or more channels impairs ventilation performance.
In some cases, there is still a need to combine several channels, to combine them into one common natural ventilation channel.
Read: Ventilation channel performance
Performance of a single exhaust ventilation channel with a cross section of 12x17 cm.(204 cm 2) from concrete blocks depending on the channel height and room temperature:
Capacity of natural ventilation channels with a cross section of 12 x 17 cm.(204 cm 2) depending on the channel height and room temperature (at an outside air temperature of 12 o C)
To determine performance for intermediate channel heights, plot the channel height versus performance graph.
Similar tables can be found for ventilation ducts that are made of other materials.
However, for ventilation ducts of the same cross-section (204 cm 2), but made from other materials, the performance will differ slightly from that indicated in the table.
For a channel of a different cross-section, the performance value from the table can be proportionally increased or decreased.
To increase the performance of a ventilation channel of the same height, it is necessary proportionally increase the cross-sectional area of the channel. To do this, for example, choose a concrete block with a larger hole, or use two or three channels of the above size to ventilate one room.
Calculation of natural ventilation of a private house
The building regulations specify the minimum required capacity of natural ventilation ducts. Typically, people feel better when more fresh air is supplied to the room than specified in the standards. The performance of the natural ventilation channel very much depends on atmospheric and other variable factors (air temperature inside and outside, wind pressure and direction, resistance to air flow into the room). All this suggests that for a private house there is no point in carefully performing calculations accurately. I recommend rounding the calculation results towards greater productivity of natural ventilation channels. During operation, if necessary, the channel capacity can be easily reduced.
Calculation of natural ventilation is carried out in order to determine the size of ventilation channels based on the volume of air removed.
When determining the volume of air removed through natural ventilation ducts, it is taken into account that air enters rooms with supply valves from the street, then this air flows into rooms with exhaust ducts, and is removed through the ducts again to the street.
Calculation is being carried out for each floor at home in the following order:
- Guided by the standards (see), determine the amount of the minimum volume of air that should come from the street for ventilation all rooms with supply valves - Q p, m 3 /hour.
- According to the standards, the amount of the minimum volume of air that must be go outside for ventilation all premises equipped with an exhaust ventilation duct - Q in, m 3 /hour.
- Compare the calculated minimum values of air flow from the street (Q p, m 3 /hour) and going outside (Q in, m 3 /hour). Usually one of the quantities turns out to be greater than the other. The larger of the two quantities is taken as the minimum design capacity of all exhaust ventilation channels on the floor— Q r, m 3 /hour.
- Based on the vertical dimensions of the house, the height of the natural ventilation channel on the floor is determined.
- Knowing the height of the ventilation channel, and the overall estimated minimum performance of all channels on the floor (Q p, m 3 / hour), According to the table (see above), the total number of standard channels made of concrete blocks is selected. The total performance of the selected number of standard channels must be no less than the value of Q p, m 3 / hour.
- The selected number of standard ducts are distributed between the rooms of the house, which must be equipped with exhaust ventilation ducts. When distributing, take into account the need to ensure standard air exchange in each individual room with a ventilation duct.
An example of calculating the natural ventilation of a private house
For example, let’s calculate natural ventilation in a one-story house with a total floor area of 120 m 2. The house has five living rooms with a total area of 90 m 2, kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as a dressing room (storage room) with an area of 4.5 m 2. Room height - 3 m. The house is designed with natural ventilation of the underground space through a ventilation duct. Height of ventilated space under the floor 0.3 m. We use concrete blocks to install ventilation channels - see above.
Fan at the entrance to the natural ventilation channel
Continuation: for the next one
