Window slopes made of ceramic tiles. Tiling in corners, niches, slopes. Covering the opening with brick or stone tiles

When repairing or replacing a window, questions regarding the finishing of slopes always arise quite acutely. And the main one is what material to choose.
There can be many options from simple plastering and painting to finishing with plasterboard or sandwich panels. No less popular is covering windows with tiles - tiled, ceramic or imitating natural stone.
This will be discussed further.

The choice of one or another tile and the method of its installation depends on factors such as the purpose of the room, requirements for its sanitary condition, overall design, personal preferences of the owner.
For example, an artificial stone with a chipped surface is unlikely to be appropriate in the kitchen, since it will be difficult to wash off grease and soot. But in a living room decorated in the appropriate style, or on a loggia, it will look great.
But smooth tiles or ceramic tiles for covering windows are great for kitchens and bathrooms; they can also be used in residential and public spaces for finishing slopes, if this fits into the overall concept of the interior. The advantages of this material are obvious.
This:

Excellent appearance, variety of colors and textures of decorative surfaces;
Resistance to mechanical damage;
High hygienic properties, ease of care;
Strength, reliability and durability of the coating;
Additional fixation window frame in the doorway.

Unfortunately, the advantages of tiles do not include low price and ease of installation - this will require some experience, patience and accuracy. But the result compensates you for all costs and labor.

Methods for tiling window openings

Depending on the type of tile chosen, it can be used to cover only the slopes or the slopes and the perimeter of the opening. Often the entire wall with a window is tiled.
Let's start with the simplest option.

Covering the opening with brick or stone tiles

The basis of the raw materials for the production of such tiles is gypsum or cement mixed with various fillers and dyes. It can imitate brick or sawn stone with smooth edges and standard sizes, or maybe deliberately rough, with torn edges and a “chipped” surface.
Finishing slopes with textured tiles is quite easy to do with your own hands, since it is not necessary to level the surface for this. And special corner elements eliminate the need to join tiles at external corners.

Advice. Choose decorative tiles, painted throughout the entire thickness, and not just on the front surface. In the event of a chip, scratch or other damage, these defects will be almost invisible.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Make notches along the entire surface to be coated to ensure good adhesion to the glue;
Prime the window slopes;
Apply to the surface the adhesive recommended by the manufacturer for the selected material. This can be either cement-based tile adhesive, liquid nails or sealant;
Glue the tiles in horizontal rows, starting at the corners and fitting them tightly together without leaving seams;
If the tiles need to be cut to length, use a regular hacksaw (for gypsum products) or a circular saw (for cement ones);
Any glue that gets on the front surface should be removed immediately with a rag.

With this type of finishing, as a rule, you only have to cut the tiles adjacent to the window frame. And on the plane adjacent to the slope of the wall, it is laid out in a free order, forming an uneven edge.

Cladding slopes with ceramic tiles

If you plan to only tile the window openings and decorate the walls with another material, then you will have to decide how to decorate the joints in the corners. But first, the slopes must be carefully leveled, ensuring that the sides are vertical and the top plane is horizontal (and the bottom, if tiles will also be laid on the window sill).
Alignment can be done as plaster mixture, so sheet materials– plasterboard, chipboard, DSP, OSB, etc.

Advice. If you are attracted only by the appearance of tiled slopes, you can simplify your task by using moisture-resistant, lined fibreboards to level and at the same time decorate window openings decorative film under the tiles.

When starting finishing, consider the following recommendations:

After leveling the slopes, it is necessary to lay out the tiles without glue to determine its best location. Narrow elements at the junctions of adjacent surfaces should be avoided - it looks unsightly.
For example, if the height of the side plane is not a multiple of the size of the tile, then you will have to start facing not with a whole tile, but with a tile cut to the height so that the top piece has the same size.
If the width of the slopes is greater than the width of the tile, then the whole one is laid along the outer edge, and the space between it and the window frame is filled with pieces cut to size.
The tiling of the window sill is carried out last, when the top and side slopes are already covered.
Some difficulties may arise when tiling the upper surface - the tile may not be held in place by the glue under its own weight. To prevent this from happening, use wooden struts that should support the tiles until the glue sets.
Grout the joints after the glue has completely dried - the next day.

As for decorating the junction of the tiles with the wall, this can be done in two ways - using overhead corners or special layouts.
In the first case, corners made of plastic, aluminum or MDF are cut to size and filed along the front side at 45 degrees. Then they are glued with acrylic sealant.

Aluminum or plastic layouts, which can be the most different colors, are selected taking into account the thickness of the tile. They are placed on glue along the entire perimeter of the opening even before laying the tiles, as shown in the figure.

The entire process of finishing slopes with tiles is clearly shown in the video posted in the article. If you want to do this job yourself, be sure to check it out.

Tiling a wall with a window

The most difficult thing to do is tiling a window opening if the entire wall with the window is also finished with tiles. Here it is very important to choose a layout scheme such that the width of the tiles on both sides of the window is the same, and you do not have to glue very narrow strips on top and bottom.
In this article we will not describe in detail how to properly glue a wall so that all horizontal and vertical seams match perfectly - instructions for performing this work are given in the corresponding material on the site.
Let's move on to window decoration:

When the entire wall to the window sill is tiled, continue laying on the sides of the window, using only whole tiles, until the horizontal row rises above the top edge of the opening.
Take a flat piece of wood and secure it above the opening so that its top edge coincides with the line connecting the bottom edges of the entire tiles located above the level of the opening.

After laying the whole tile around the window, you can begin tiling the areas around the slopes with cut pieces. You need to start from the bottom, pasting the wall under the window sill. Here the outer tiles will have to be cut at an angle, so a tile cutter will not help you - use a grinder.
Then the sides are lined. While you do this, the adhesive under the top row of tiles will set and the support strip can be carefully removed and sealed over the area above the window.
Next is the direct tiling of window sills, side and upper slopes according to the scheme indicated in the previous chapter.

It should be noted that in addition to the two methods of decorating corners already described above, in the case of tiled walls, a third option is also possible. This is a joining of perpendicularly located tiles at an angle of 45 degrees.
It is important to say that this method is only available to experienced professionals, since only a specialist who has performed this procedure more than once can accurately remove the chamfer without damaging the facial decorative enamel.

Conclusion

There is no doubt that window covering tiles are a very practical and beautiful material that allows you to refine your interior and simplify window maintenance. But not everyone will undertake to work with it, guaranteeing an ideal result.
If you like this particular finishing option, but you are not confident in your abilities, do not take risks - use the services of an experienced craftsman.

Before you start facing the slopes using ceramic tiles as a finishing material, you need to make sure that the slopes are smooth.

If the slopes have any flaws, they must be corrected. You can level slopes using various methods and materials; in any case, you can choose the best option that meets certain price and quality characteristics.

There are several ways to finish slopes with tiles, specifically methods for joining tiles at the corners.

First way. This method applies to finishing the outer corners of the tiles. On the back side of the tile, a chamfer is removed at an angle of 45 degrees so that the enamel with a thickness of one and a half millimeters is preserved on the front side. This method is time-consuming and requires maximum accuracy. The joining at the corners done in this way looks good. But there is one flaw, namely, it is not known how the one and a half millimeters of enamel remaining on the corners of the tile will behave during operation.

Second way. Finishing slopes with tiles can be done using a special layout - corners. These layouts are available for internal and external corners. There are also layouts various colors and sizes. The layout material can be either aluminum or plastic. You can view various types of layouts on the website of the company Otkosik, which also deals with finishing slopes. Next, the corners must be selected taking into account the thickness of the tiles.

The tiles should fit tightly into the layout, without cracks or gaps, so that in the future there will be no need to eliminate any shortcomings in the joining corners. During the installation process, the first step is to cover one corner plane. The second step is to secure the layout tile adhesive in the corner. In the third step, another surface is tiled. There may be other ways to finish the corners with tiles using layouts, it all depends on the specific situation.

Third way. First, the tiles are laid on the slopes. Then the tile is grouted with a special grout, and excess grout is removed from the surface of the tile. When the tiles are installed, the outer corners are decorated with plastic, aluminum, bronze corners, of which there is a wide variety in both color and size options.

The corners are secured using acrylic sealant. Here acrylic sealant is the best option. It is easy to use, has good adhesive properties, and can be easily removed using water and a rag if the surface of the tile suddenly gets dirty. Slopes made in this way are good for use. Also, the corners used can be easily changed to others if the need arises.

Fourth way.

When decorating slopes with tiles and when joining tiles on internal corners few problems arise, but joining at external corners is quite difficult moment. And problems arise mainly due to the fact that the base of the tile, or otherwise the end part, is a different color than the outer enamel of the tile. Consequently, the corners may not look neat, and this sloppiness will need to be hidden or repaired with something.

And the fourth method of designing slopes is aimed at ensuring that the external corners immediately turn out well and beautifully. This can be achieved by using certain types of tiles whose enamel color almost matches the color of the end part. These tiles are made using dry pressing. If you select the right tile, then the design of slopes can go quickly and will not require additional work and costs, especially that the range of such tiles is only increasing every year.

Here are the basic and fairly simple ways to decorate slopes with tiles.

And finally, a couple of tips on making slopes.

Tile adhesive is not always the best option when tiling slopes. Sometimes it is better to replace glue with sealant, liquid silicone or acrylic nails, which are convenient to use and can be easily removed from the surface of the tile.
You always need to carefully think through all your actions, calculate costs when starting finishing, repairs, construction, etc. To obtain additional skills, you can refer to information on the Internet on performing a particular job.

The dimensions and location of borders are presented in the diagrams (click to enlarge):

Considering the fact that there are several types of these auxiliary structures on the market for materials for construction and repair, one cannot help but say that they differ not only in color, but also in size. So, among the most widespread are the following sizes:

Dimensions (in millimeters)	The main purpose
10x20, 5x17 and 15x25	For arched solutions, it is best to choose corners with different side widths. This design ensures better installation.
50x50, 25x25, 20x20	In cases where you need to finish the slopes on window openings, strengthening them, it is advisable to use profiles with a square section.
7, 9, 12. Length - 2500	Indoor and outdoor plastic profiles for tiles.
22x10, 18x10, 12x10 or 20x10	If we are talking about sealing the seams that form at the point of contact between the slope and the wall, then it makes sense to opt for a T-shaped border.
30x25, 25x17, 25x25. Length - 1830	External PVC border for bathtub.
20x20, 30x30. Length - 3400	Self-adhesive border tape, also designed for bathtubs.

How to glue a corner and what glue is better to use

Of course, choice, size and appearance are important concepts. Nevertheless, correct selection glue is also extremely important. What glue is best for gluing plastic corners? A universal option that has become widespread is the so-called “liquid nails”. You can use this method, which can rightfully be called “folk”, in any room or area of your apartment: from the bathroom and toilet, to the kitchen, living room, bedroom and even the nursery. Of course, we must not forget about the hallway and balcony (loggia), which are also important rooms. When gluing, you need to remember that the best option is such glue, which then, as it dries, will gradually become transparent.

It is important to understand that such glue also requires a certain additional equipment. It's about about the so-called pistol, which is used to apply liquid nails on the back surface of the plastic corner

By the way, this adhesive composition must be applied with a thin “sausage” (line), which, if possible, should be located closer to the middle of the plastic threshold. This approach will help to avoid excess glue getting on the front (decorative) surface of the corner. If the glue does end up on the front side, it is recommended to first wait for it to dry completely, and only then begin to remove its remnants. To do this, by the way, you can use some of the sharp objects at hand: a knife, a scalpel, a spatula, and so on.

To fix the plastic finishing corner while the glue dries, you can use tape. Among the most common types of tape that can be used, mention should be made of standard packaging tape (can be either transparent or colored - blue, brown, red, etc.), as well as masking tape, which in appearance vaguely resembles paper. So, the best solution would be to use a type of masking tape.

Description of material

In interiors living rooms you can find the slopes of openings decorated with mosaics - it always looks unusual and bright. This interior is distinguished by individuality and special beauty. The tile can be ceramic or figured, imitating artificial stone.

Ceramics

Decorative ceramic tiles can be used to decorate the slopes of windows and doors in the bathroom and kitchen. Thanks to high hygienic qualities this material is used to make a kitchen apron.

Ceramic tiles are highly durable

Ceramics has many positive qualities:

strength;
high wear resistance;
durability;
minimal water absorption;
hygiene;
it does not allow electric current to pass through;
fire safety;
environmental friendliness;
affordable cost;
decorativeness and a wide selection of colors, shapes and sizes.

Tile

Tile is a type of ceramic, from which it differs in its durable glossy glazed surface. The cost of these products is higher than ceramic ones, but their service life is measured in decades.

The tiles are resistant to temperature changes

has high strength;
is resistant to chemicals and alkali;
withstands temperature changes and exposure to direct sunlight;
retains its appearance and quality throughout the entire operational period;
waterproof;
easy to care for and has high level hygiene;
has a wide range of colors, patterns and shapes;
common and affordable.

Stone effect tiles

This finish perfectly imitates masonry made of any natural and artificial stones. This material is based on fusible clay and quartz sand. Thanks to this, the products are lightweight, unlike ceramics and tiles. Finishing windows with such tiles will avoid excessive load on the window opening.. In a private house, external slopes can be finished with this material. You just need to choose products for outdoor facing works.

Decorative stone is light in weight

The tiles on window slopes with imitation stone are different:

light weight;
various surface options - textured, matte, glossy;
compactness;
simple installation and ease of processing;
can be used when finishing a door arch is required;
firmly fixed to tile adhesive.

Products that imitate old masonry, are expensive. This must be taken into account when choosing material.

Mosaic

Window decoration with ceramic mosaics looks unusual and original. With its help you can make interesting doorways in living rooms.

The most original way to finish slopes is mosaic

This type of window decoration is made using ceramic elements small size, from which a strict ornament or a chaotic pattern is formed.

Working with slopes requires great care, and tile adhesive does not meet this criterion well. Instead, it is better to use silicone sealant or liquid nails, which are much easier to remove from the ceramic surface.
To ensure that the tiles are laid out along the slope as evenly as possible, use a building level.
If you are going to lay ceramic tiles on a slope using the chamfering method, then select thicker tile options for this. The minimum recommended thickness of tiles for slopes is 17 mm.
Before cutting tiles for finishing slopes, take all the necessary measurements and mark the material.

Finishing window slopes ceramic tiles is a task that requires not so much special skills and tools as attention and patience. In this matter, the main thing is not to mess it up due to haste or carelessness - the better the work is done, the neater the slopes will look.

External.

But still, to be on the safe side, we will still take a level and cut the tiles onto the slope. The average width of the slope is 15-20 centimeters. Measure your slope, cut all the tiles to fit the width of the slope and begin to carry out the preparatory work for the slope. Dismantling old plaster prime the base. Then we mix the tile adhesive and begin laying the tiles on the slope. Laying tiles on a slope is very simple. Glue is spread on the tile in equal proportions and first one side slope is glued, the whole one at once:

Place the tile against the slope and press lightly. We carry out such actions to the top of the slope. Then we take a level and level the laid tiles onto the slope with the level itself until the required level is reached for the tiles on the slope. In the same way, we improve the next slope and move on to the upper slope.

We improve the upper slope using tiles as follows.

Mix the tile adhesive solution to a denser consistency and apply even layer onto the slope itself, and then we glue the tiles, all at once. In some cases, the tiles may peel off; it is worth coming up with spacers for the upper slope of the tiles. It's time to refine the tile slope edges. To do this, we need an F-shaped plastic profile, simply an ef-sample. We cut it along the length of our slopes, not forgetting to add the width of the F strip on both sides and simply insert it into the solution. So our external tile slope is ready. It's time to decorate the internal slope with tiles.

Sequence of work

You need to start laying tiles on the side surfaces. Moreover, only whole tiles should be used. Work continues until the horizontal row is above the upper end of the opening.

A flat strip is attached above the opening. The top edge of the plank should match the line that connects the bottom edges of the entire tiles above the opening line.

When the laying of solid tiles is completed, you can begin tiling near the slopes with additional pieces. Work should start from the bottom point

It is very important that the edge tiles are cut at an angle. I'll have to use a grinder

After this, the facing of the side planes begins. During the work, the glue on the top will set well. You can remove the support bar. All that remains is to close the consolidated space remaining above the door.

Tiling door slopes in the bathroom

Arched profile

As it becomes clear, this type of construction is intended to complete the finishing of arches in apartments. If we divide this type of corner into two main subtypes, then we can designate them as, on the one hand, decorative profiles, and on the other, as those intended for plaster. According to their purpose, arch covers, like other analogues, perform 2 functions: protective and aesthetic.

A plastic corner for wallpaper, as well as paint and other types of materials is designed to protect the finishing material from abrasion. Indirectly, it even protects the putty, even though it is inside, from possible mechanical damage. In addition, it is able to hide various sloppy places and flaws in the arched opening. The sizes of the arched plastic corner vary. If the length, in most cases, is quite standard, then the cross-section, as a rule, is different. The choice depends on your preferences, as well as on the design features of the arched opening. If we talk about color, then there is plenty to choose from, since the range offered in stores is practically unlimited.

Speaking about the profile, which is intended for plaster, it must be said that this is a perforated corner. It received this name for the reason that during production, special technological holes are made on its surface along its entire length. It is quite flexible, which helps when working with rounded arches, especially if they have a small diameter.

The purpose of this design is somewhat different. It should give the ideal edges that the corner of the wall should have before plastering. By the way, if we talk about the material of the arches for which the corner is used, then it must be said that it can be completely different, from wood to plasterboard, from which, by the way, you can make not only arches, but also partitions.

Photo: perforated corner for plaster

Craftsmen recommend that everyone who finishes and decorates slopes adhere to several rules.

On leveled slopes, you must first lay out the parts to determine the best location. It is advisable that narrow elements are not located at the junction of adjacent surfaces. The appearance deteriorates.
When the size of the side surface does not allow laying a whole part, cladding should begin with a trimmed piece. Moreover, the upper segment should be the same dimensions.
If the width of the part exceeds the width of the slopes, the whole figure must be laid out along the outer edge. The free space formed between the parts and the door frame is closed with additional pieces cut to the required dimensions.
Sometimes the part does not stay on the top surface. Its mass cannot be held by glue. To solve the problem, you can use wooden struts. They must hold it until the applied glue has completely set.
Grouting should be done the next day. During this time the glue will dry completely.

Decorated stone slopes for an arched opening without a door

Finishing the slopes of the entrance door with stone

Lining door slopes with natural or artificial stone(made from a gypsum mixture) gives the interior an original appearance. In addition, stone is a practical material with a long service life. Laying stone over slopes involves preliminary preparation surfaces. This can be done in two ways.

Facing slopes with stone over a plasterboard base

A step-by-step description of the method consists of the following points.

The sheathing is constructed from wooden slats or metal profiles of type UD-27.
Moisture-resistant drywall is attached to the sheathing. Such material will not be deformed under the influence of moisture contained in tile adhesive.
Natural or artificial stone is glued to a plasterboard base. For this, mastic or tile adhesive is used. The product is applied to the drywall with a notched trowel, after which the stone is pressed firmly against the base surface of the slope for a few seconds.
If necessary, the stone is cut with a grinder.

Advice: if the texture of the stone allows, the joining of adjacent elements is done seamlessly. In this case, the surface will look solid and there will be no difficulties filling the seams.

Installation of drywall on the surface of the opening is possible without installing sheathing. For this, glue for gypsum plaster boards is used: it is applied in large pieces in a checkerboard pattern and pressed onto a surface previously treated with a primer.

Facing slopes with stone over plaster

The technology involves performing work in the following order.

The base surface is cleaned of weak plaster and treated with a deep penetration primer.
“Beacons” are installed - special metal profiles. They are fixed with a thick cement-sand mortar, first aligned vertically and horizontally.
The cement-sand mixture is mixed.
The leveling layer is applied with a spatula. If it is necessary to apply a thick layer, the solution is applied in several stages. In this case, a plaster mesh is laid between the layers.
The last thin leveling layer is applied with a solution of a thinner consistency.
After complete drying cement-sand mortar(after 2-3 days) you can start gluing the stone using the method described above.

Tip: a thick plaster layer will hold up better if you drive dowel nails into the wall in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface of the slope so that they are shorter than the thickness of the plaster. The nails are randomly entangled with wire 1.8 - 2.0 mm thick. The plaster will adhere better to such a “skeleton”.

In the event that stone gluing is not intended, the plastered surface of the slope is additionally leveled with finishing gypsum or decorative plaster. The corners are formed with a corresponding metal profile.

Design of window slopes: how to make joints correctly

Cladding slopes with ceramic tiles is not the most popular option interior decoration premises, although not the rarest. To implement it, you only need the tile itself, glue, the appropriate tool (including for cutting tiles), a little time and, most importantly, knowledge.

Most of the work involved in tiling slopes is gluing the tiles to the wall. Difficulties begin when you need to join the tiles at the corners. There are several options here.

The first one is to chamfer the back of the tile at an angle of 45 degrees. This will allow you to join the tiles as neatly and almost imperceptibly as possible. The difficulty is that a very thin layer of enamel remains on the edge of the tile, which can easily break off.

You can also use special corners. They exist for outdoor and internal slopes, made of metal or plastic, come in different colors and sizes.

You can attach the tiles to the corners using tile adhesive or acrylic sealant.

The last option is good because, if necessary, the corner or the ceramics attached to it can be easily replaced.

When choosing corners, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the tiles used, and in terms of the amount of time and effort spent, this method is the most economical. The only downside is the additional costs for corners.

To make the external slopes look more neat, you should use tiles whose enamel color is the same as the color of the end part.

By the way, it is not at all necessary to form window slopes with tiles from top to bottom - often finishing only in the lower part is sufficient, but in the upper part you can use another method, combining various options finishing - for example, as in this photo.

Plastering

The slope is primed and pendulum profiles are installed along the opening. Next, apply plaster from a cement-sand mortar. Alabaster can be added to improve adhesive properties. The prepared solution is applied to the surface with a trowel and leveled with a spatula, focusing on the beacons.

If you plan to paint, the slope must be carefully prepared. To do this, plaster with large fractions is applied to a reinforcing mesh, followed by a finishing layer. To strengthen the slopes, a perforated profile (corner) is installed. It is pressed into the wet plaster.

The plaster must dry completely, after which the slope is painted. Plastering is a cheap finishing method, but requires careful leveling of the surface.

Main varieties

Now let's look at the most popular types of PVC profiles that are used in arranging the interiors of a particular room or place in the apartment.

The variety of types, including perforated, indoor/outdoor, colored (brown, white, etc.), as well as decorated with wood and metal, is not all that you might think of at first.

For bathroom

Usage decorative corner for the bathroom is easy to explain. The fact is that the place where the joint between the bathtub and the wall tiles is located is, as a rule, quite poorly sealed. When water from the shower and bath gets there, it provokes the appearance of mold and the development of fungus. Solving this problem, however, is not so difficult. However, to do this, you need to know exactly how to properly install a plastic bathroom border. In addition to sealing the seam, you will also get a beautiful appearance that will replace unfinished repairs. So, what do you need to know about bathroom baseboards? There are 2 most common varieties:

Plastic plinth. Made from PVC, this structural element is durable and in an inexpensive way solutions to the problems mentioned above.
Profile that can be glued without additional use adhesive composition. This self-adhesive material is flexible. In addition, it already has everything you need, since it has a sealant and sometimes silicone. However, as some professional craftsmen note in their reviews, this option is not optimal for those places that are in constant and prolonged contact with water. It is better to use it at the joints between the floor and the wall. Although, if the bathtub is rarely used, then it will do just fine.

On a note! Since we are talking about the bathroom, we advise you to read the article “How much water is in the bath: how to save by using it.”

As for the installation of a self-adhesive border, there should not be any problems with this, since it is almost ready for installation. So let's talk about step-by-step installation plastic corner for the bathroom. There are 2 common installation methods PVC profile: under tiles, as well as on tiles. For greater clarity, we will briefly consider each of them.

Tile installation

If you follow the instructions, then it is quite possible to do such an installation yourself, without the need for an invitation professional specialists. Here's a quick guide:

First of all, clean and degrease the work surface, then dry it.
Using masking tape, seal the areas of the bathtub adjacent to the work areas.
Measure and cut the border into pieces of the required length.
After spreading special glue (by the way, “liquid nails” will also work), place the plastic corner to the required place and press it with proper force.
After drying, use special plugs to give a more attractive appearance.

Attention! In any case, read the instructions for installing the plastic corner supplied by the manufacturer. . Glue under the tile

Glue under the tile

In addition to the first method, the second can also be used, which involves installing a PVC border under the tiles. So, when laying tiles, its base is covered. It should be noted that many believe this method even somewhat more reliable compared to the first one, since it is capable of providing increased level waterproofing.

Installing a border under the tiles yourself in a high-quality and beautiful manner is not as easy as it might seem. As a rule, only an experienced person who has had extensive practice in carrying out such work can cope with such work. It is difficult to speak unambiguously about service life, since there are many various types corner. So, if we consider the first method of fastening (on top of the tile), it is not as durable as installation under the tile. On the other hand, it’s hard to call this a clear disadvantage, and here’s the reason. Many people would like, if possible, to change the interior design of their bathroom.

So, we noted some points about laying the corner under the tiles. Now let's talk about the plastic border designed for arches.

Examples of our tile laying work

Tiling slopes

Before starting cladding work, the surface should be pre-prepared: cleaned of old finishes, dust and other contaminants, and treated with a primer mixture.

The next step is the application of cement-sand mortar. If the depth of the cracks and defects are significant, sealing them with a solution is carried out in several stages. work surface can be considered completely ready for cladding only after the cement has completely dried. Modern ceramic tiles are considered the most practical and popular material for decorating slopes. It is attached using special adhesive mixtures.

Thanks to the wide selection of ceramic products on the market, you can choose the option that will fit most harmoniously into the interior of the room. The only inconvenience when tiling using ceramic tiles is the difficulty of facing horizontal slopes, since under the influence of its own weight the tiles simply fall off. When carrying out such work, our specialists use special struts that support the tiles until they are completely secured.

Tiling door slopes: advantages

The use of tiles for facing door and window slopes has many advantages, among which it is necessary to highlight:

Attractive appearance;
Fortress;
Durability;
The material performs the functions of additional fixation of the door or window frame;
High resistance to damage;
Ease of care;
High hygienic qualities.

The few disadvantages of the material include the risk of damage during installation. However, it is very easy to avoid this if you entrust the work to our specialists.

Tiling window slopes: what affects the cost

The cost of tiling window and door slopes is determined by many factors, including:

Costs of purchasing and delivering materials;
Leveling the surface of slopes (plaster) horizontally and vertically;
Direct facing work;
Grouting;
Complexity and volume of work;
A number of other factors.

Finishing entrance door slopes with MDF boards

MDF panels come in two types: intended for finishing slopes (special L-shaped) and wall panels. To install special panels, it is necessary to precisely adjust the installation depth of the door frame and the leaf itself in the opening, since the width of the decorative element is strictly specified. At this stage, difficulties often arise and therefore door slopes are often decorated with wall MDF panels.

Finishing technology entrance slopes MDF panels provide the following.

Using a plumb line and level, the base surface is assessed.
We construct a sheathing from wooden slats with a cross-section of 20×40 mm: we fasten the slats to brick or concrete using dowel nails.
We cut the MDF panels into pieces of the required length (using a jigsaw) and attach them to wooden sheathing, covering unsightly areas. Fastening methods: using self-tapping screws, using clamps or staples, using construction stapler. Sections of MDF panels are connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove principle.
We decorate corner joints, places where MDF panels join a door frame or the inner surface of a wall with a universal element. Depending on the surface, it can serve as an internal, external corner or straight plank.
Universal elements are attached using liquid nails.

Tip: if the depth of the opening does not exceed the width of the MDF panel, it can be installed vertically, without sawing into pieces. In this case, the slopes will look more attractive.

Similarly, you can decorate the door slopes with wooden lining. Natural wood can be painted in any color with a special paint that emphasizes the texture of the material.

Mosaic slopes

To install a mosaic covering on the slopes of windows and doors, you can use special soft canvases on which ceramic pieces are glued. The base can be paper or in the form of a mesh. Their convenience lies in the fact that you can cut the canvas to the required size.

The installation process is simple. The surface of the slope must be dry, clean and level. On preparatory stage Preliminary markings are made on the slope, according to which the mosaic canvas is then glued.

the glue is applied with a notched trowel; To apply the glue, use a notched trowel
When gluing the mosaic canvas, you do not need to put too much pressure on it so that the adhesive does not squeeze out through the seams; It is necessary to glue the mosaic canvas without strong pressure
for sealing joints, it is recommended to use grout based on epoxy resin; For grouting joints, use epoxy resin
with help rubber spatula the grout is distributed in an even layer; To distribute the grout evenly, use a rubber spatula
After the grout has dried, its excess is removed with a damp sponge.

Window and door slopes, finished with one of the listed materials, will decorate any interior and retain their original appearance for many years.

Initial conditions and materials

The finishing of the bathtub was carried out some time after the installation of the doors, the doors of which are narrower than the walls by several centimeters. How did things go?

1. To cut strips for the slope, broken or damaged tiles with a solid edge were used.

2. In order not to spoil or not to buy new tiles in inconspicuous places, for example, below eye level or closer to the floor, you can use fragments cut off on both sides the right size, only they need to be treated with abrasives, a file or coarse sandpaper.

3. It is much more convenient to finish the slope when the wall tiles have already dried and are therefore motionless.

4. Before finishing the upper part of the slope, the support rail is leveled. But if the adhesive layer is small or it is made thicker due to good adhesion to the wall, the tile strips will remain motionless, so such a strip may not be useful.

This is what the top corner looks like, all that remains is to clean it up a little. On a modern door sash there is a special groove on both sides and on top where, if necessary, extensions are inserted, that is, strips used to finish the slope in cases where the slit width is not enough. to cover the entire opening. The tile is inserted into this groove, you just need to make sure that it is not filled with anything, such as polyurethane foam.

A gap is visible between the louvre and the tile, which can be sealed

The photo shows that the tiles fit closely to the loot and there is almost no gap between them. If desired, you can use elastic sealant to match the color of the tile or door. It is better not to fill this gap with grout for joints, since over time it will still crumble from vibration and spill out.

These are just the main points; details can be discussed in personal correspondence. The email is indicated in the channel description. From another article on the Master-OK channel you can find out. And to regularly receive practical materials, subscribe to the channel and give your ratings.

For finishing slopes

As practice shows, slopes are often finished using PVC panels. The point, first of all, is the price: it is very affordable. However, besides the cost, this solution has its advantages. However, if we talk about the areas that are located at the ends of the plastic panels, then it must be said that they do not look very good, to put it mildly. It is for this purpose that plastic corners for window slopes are used. Considering that one of its sides of such a border covers the wall, we can say that at the same time it is also a plastic corner for wallpaper.

Let's see how to stick it correctly. Here's a quick guide:

First, prepare the main surface.
Cut the corner to the required size. This is done sharp knife or a hacksaw, so be careful.
Using glue (read below about how to glue a plastic corner), apply it to the wrong side of the fastener.
Attach to to the right place and press firmly. Secure with masking tape if necessary.

By the way, in order to hide irregularities, especially those that may be noticeable in areas of trimming, it is not recommended to use silicone or acrylic sealant. This can be explained by the fact that over time, such silicone areas begin to gather dust, which spoils the overall appearance.

By the way, a few words about appearance, and to be precise, color range. A colored decorative element is not only reliable and practical, but also especially beautiful, since it takes into account various features one or another style in the interior. If we talk about the main shades, here are the most common options:

Classic white.
Wenge.
Transparent.
Brown.
Grey.
Black.

By the way! In those rare cases when you were unable to find the color you needed and you can find something suitable, painting is an option.

It’s easy to glue the corner for window openings with your own hands

Performed tasks

The main role of this design, which was noted just above, is to be able to provide protection for the corners of various structures and finishing materials in apartments and country houses. residential buildings. The arched corner made of PVC, as well as its “assembly” for tiles, wallpaper and baseboards, are designed so that during operation it is possible to significantly reduce the likelihood of mechanical damage to certain problem areas. It is no secret that the exploitation of almost any structural elements in the interior modern apartment is associated with the risk of receiving certain injuries. They can be applied by both your beloved child and pets (cats, dogs, etc.)

And in general, something can be broken or damaged simply through negligence.

Reliable protection against moisture penetration and fungus formation

However, the plastic threshold is not only “occupied” with purely practical tasks. The fact is that with its use this or that element of design or decor becomes more complete and attractive. Numerous examples, which are presented in the photo for this article, show how beautiful slopes can look in places of contact with wallpaper, a wall with tiles, at the junction with a bathtub, or arched structures, if you glue a flexible plastic threshold.

Main advantages

Of course, there are several different types of plastic corners. Arched, for the bathroom, windows, wallpaper and baseboards, it nevertheless has some common features. As a matter of fact, the advantages that this type of additional structure has are also common. Let's briefly list the main ones:

It has a variety of shapes, colors and, in general, types.
Processing it is quite easy, just like cutting it to the desired length.
Due to its light weight, as well as softness, fastening the plastic corner, including in places of plugs and joints, is quite simple. You can do everything yourself, with your own hands.
Hides some imperfections in the interior.
It's cheap. Including affordable price makes it so popular.
The ability not to remove (if necessary), but to slightly pull it back, and then, after completing repairs or other work, simply put the plastic corner back in its original place. This is not typical for any profile, but only for removable ones, which are produced by a number of manufacturers.
Durable during use.

What are the types of slopes of plastic windows, the best options and their photos

The installation of modern plastic windows cannot be considered complete if the slopes have not been finished and the canopies and ebbs have not been installed.

The slopes relate to the inside of the window. The need for their installation is due to the fact that PVC windows are smaller in thickness than the wooden structures installed during the construction of the building, so an untreated area 5-30 cm wide is formed on the slopes of the window opening.

To solve this problem, you can use the following methods. For example, do plaster slopes plastic windows that are suitable for finishing any type of room in concrete, block, brick and panel houses.

However, in the latter case, preference should be given to plastic slopes, which have a number of advantages compared to plaster. These include speed of installation and additional thermal insulation between the room and the street. In addition, this finish does not require additional maintenance, does not fade, fade or crack over time. A window opening with slopes has a complete and attractive appearance.

Slopes come in several varieties. The best slopes for PVC windows - plastic, this is a new word in installation technology. They appeared on the Russian market in 2005 and are currently considered ideal option when installing plastic windows. Installation is carried out as quickly as possible: usually on the same day as window installation.

The window itself and the slopes are made of the same material, so they are an integral part of the efficient structure and logically complete it. As a result, the window acquires a modern and attractive appearance. Slopes also act as additional thermal insulation between the room and the street.

The plastic type of slopes for windows has the following advantages:

high level of insulation that prevents moisture penetration;
slopes made of plastic do not need additional finishing, they have a shiny surface, they do not need to be painted, they are easy to clean, and dust does not accumulate on them;
ease of installation.

Their disadvantages include inconsistency color palette some PVC profiles.

Less popular plasterboard option slopes for plastic windows, which is explained by the complexity of installation. They are used for plasterboard walls if finishing work has not been carried out inside the room. This material is characterized by rigidity and good thermal insulation properties.

The main advantage of plasterboard slopes is their low heat absorption coefficient, so they are warm to the touch. Disadvantages include instability to moisture and the need for periodic repairs and painting. In addition, sometimes a layer of air remains between the wall and the structure. If moisture gets in there, it can cause the slope to bend and cause stains.

Installation of plastic slopes is carried out immediately after installing the window. Before installing the plastic panel, you need to level the window opening using a level and a wooden batten that is attached to the wall. This allows you to get perfectly even plastic slopes and right angles.

Pay attention to the photo - when installing slopes of plastic windows, the joints are processed silicone sealant, which provides reliable insulation:

The joints are almost invisible. After completing the installation work, the window opening is sealed, durable, well insulated and aesthetically pleasing.

Modern PVC windows cannot be imagined without high-quality slopes.

When choosing a material for panels, you should pay attention not to their cost, but to the quality and reliability of the material used: after all, the windows should serve you for many years.

In the next section of the article you will learn which window sill to choose for a plastic window.

Methods for joining surfaces

The first option is to cut the tiles with reverse side at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, theoretically, a high-quality monolithic joint will be obtained. In practice, everything is much more complicated - cutting tiles at the same angle is very problematic, the process itself takes a lot of time, and the weakened edge may begin to collapse over time.

The second option is to use special fittings. There are special plastic or aluminum corners on sale that securely hold the edges of the tiles and cover the joint. Options are offered for both external and internal joints; the corners have different dimensions, shapes and colors. When using corners, first the slope is lined, then the corner is mounted, then the other side is lined

It is important to fix the tile tightly in the corner, otherwise the connection will be flimsy and may move away from the wall.

Technology for tiling slopes/video:

The third option is to use corners together with grout. In this case, the door and window slopes are first tiled, then the wall is tiled, after which all joints are thoroughly rubbed. Excess grout is removed and the corner joint is closed. plastic corner, attached to liquid nails.

The fourth option is the most expensive, but the most basic. It consists of using tiles that have the same color throughout the entire thickness. In this case, the joints will not be noticeable, and cover them additional funds not required.

Finishing the bathroom with tiles around the bathtub - details of the work

The biggest, but surmountable problem that craftsmen usually face when tiling a bathroom is the bath itself - its presence in the room affects the technology of laying tiles. If without it the tiles can be laid evenly on all walls, starting from the very bottom of the floor, then with it present the technology changes as follows.

First of all, the part of the floor on which the bath will be installed is laid.
They begin to lay the first row of tiles, resting it on the bathtub itself - this is where all the other problems arise. Firstly, a good third of the walls have to be clad in reverse order– from bottom to top, going down one row each time. Secondly, this is the cladding of the side areas under the bathtub - in most cases, no one solves this problem, and they leave it to chance. The maximum that the craftsmen bother to do is to place one, or even half a tile on each side under the bathtub. If you go this route, then the walls under the bathtub at a minimum need to be puttied with tile adhesive, even if the front part of the bathtub will be finished with tiles. Tiling a bathroom photo

In principle, tiling a bathroom in the presence of a plumbing fixture such as a bathtub causes difficulty only for beginners. Masters are familiar with this whole thing, and they don’t even ask such questions. Yes, in general, almost no one reads articles like this, so if you find yourself here, then draw the right conclusions and take all these nuances into account.

There is another approach to solving this problem, but it is not always possible to implement it - the room can be tiled first, and only then a bathtub can be installed. I will say right away that in small bathrooms, in which the bathtub fits from wall to wall, this option will not work - you simply will not put the bathtub in place without damaging the finish. The other side of the coin of this approach to business is the tightness of the joint between the wall and the bathtub - by installing tiles on top, you reliably protect the space under the bathtub from possible leaks. Otherwise, the sealing of this gap by any means will be compromised over time.

Finishing a bathroom with ceramic tiles photo

What you need for finishing

Improving your apartment doesn’t stop just with installing a new window. During installation, the window opening is partially destroyed. To eliminate all chips that have appeared in the walls, to extend the service life of the window system, you will need to finish the slopes in own home. If desired, you can do it yourself.

Nowadays it is fashionable to live or spend a summer vacation in an environmentally friendly wooden house. In such a home it is possible to install both plastic and wooden windows. In a wooden house, they are used for interior and exterior decoration. wooden lining, natural wood or practical plastic.

For plastic windows installed in a wooden house, experts advise choosing plastic panels. To independently decorate your favorite wooden house with plastic panels, you will need the material itself, corners, sealant, a reliable screwdriver, and a special construction stapler with staples.

In a wooden house built from logs, finishing the window with clapboard is relevant. It is environmentally friendly, strong, durable, and frost-resistant. For this type of finishing in a wooden house, prepare a screwdriver, the required amount of material, sealant, screws and corners with your own hands.

A starting set of tools and materials for finishing any of the materials discussed below includes a painting knife, fleas and profiles (for frame method), screwdriver, hammer drill (for frameless method), plasterboard glue, putty, plasterboard, level, screws, spatula, glue container, serpyanka, perforated corner, acrylic, construction gun.

Advantages of corners

Before the advent of specialized means for sealing the joints between the bowl and the wall, craftsmen used improvised means, trying to isolate them using moisture-resistant cement or thickened oil paint. But the effect of such measures was temporary; the gap had to be covered regularly. Bathroom corners made of plastic have become an effective solution to the problem of water flowing into the resulting gap. They have the following advantages:

Easy to install. You can fix the plastic corners to the bathtub with your own hands at any phase of the installation of plumbing equipment, since they are attached using liquid nails or sealant without making holes in the walls.
Plastic corner in the bathroom
Resistant to bathroom microclimate. Plastic is a practical material that is not afraid of dampness, contact with water and detergents, and mold. Therefore, plastic borders will last quite a long time.
Easy to care for. Plastic products are undemanding in care, so it is enough to wash the bathroom corners made of polyvinyl chloride occasionally with a soap solution and a simple sponge.
Reliability. The plastic corner prevents moisture from flowing into the gap between the bathtub and the wall. Thanks to the design with a smooth angle of 45 degrees, the water does not stagnate in it, but flows into the bowl.

Important! To properly seal the gap between the wall and the washing container, you need to choose the right corners for the bathroom. To ensure that knocking is protected from water or splashes when using a shower, the width of the side should be 2-4 cm greater than the width of the gap

Slopes of niches and doors: how to solve some problems

In most cases, door slopes in the bathroom are not tiled - with almost any option for finishing a bathroom with tiles, craftsmen try to avoid this moment by increasing the thickness of the door frame by any means. But to stretch it to the limit, even with the help of so-called telescopic extensions, it doesn’t always work out - sometimes it’s cheaper, and most importantly, it’s more reliable to finish the slopes with tiles, and the first problem that beginners in this business face is uneven trimming. Use a hand tool (even a tile cutter) to cut several tiles completely same size is impossible, and the resulting millimeter or smaller steps greatly spoil the overall picture.

What to do with such steps? This is a matter of technique. First, you need to realize the fact that it is better to direct the cut edges of the tiles towards the door frame - believe me, they look much worse on the corner, but near the door they simply overlap. If the differences are within 1mm, then this can be done with colored acrylic, choosing this material to match the door or tiles. For large deviations in cutting uneven edge The tiles can be covered with a small corner, which is usually used to connect tiles in the inner corners, or with a narrow strip, which can be cut from the same door frame.

Finishing a niche with tiles in the bathroom photo

In conclusion, a few words about cutting the tiles itself - it is a real problem for a novice tiler. To learn how to cut tiles efficiently, and most importantly accurately, you will have to ruin more than a dozen tiles - without this, as you understand, high-quality finishing of the bathroom with tiles will not work. You can solve the problem of oblique, crooked and inaccurate trimming different ways, but the most common are installing joining corners, covering the cut edge of the tile with a factory edge and trimming in the most obscure corners of the room. The first option is aesthetically not very good, the latter is not always possible, but the second is the most optimal - to implement it, the tiles need to be laid in a circle, row by row.

← Bathroom design with a window: interior design features

Slopes made of tiles or ceramic tiles

If necessary, finish the slopes of windows or doors with elements with precise geometric dimensions you must follow the instructions below.

Laying

Before starting work, the slopes must be carefully leveled. The tiles will be laid with high quality only on a smooth, flat surface. This must be controlled using a building level.

There are several methods for leveling slopes: using plaster, drywall or chipboard.

You can line the window opening with plasterboard

Below we will tell you how to lay tiles on a previously plastered and primed slope.

Before gluing the tiles, parts are laid out on the prepared slopes to assess their future position. Lay out the tiles starting from the corner. The principle is the same as when laying tiles on a wall - the first bottom row is laid out first.

Laying tiles begins from the bottom row

The glue is applied to the wall using a metal spatula. The texture obtained in this way will contribute to better adhesion of the adhesive and tiles. The joints are grouted after a day using a rubber spatula.

How to make a corner connection

At the preparation stage, it is necessary to install metal or plastic perforated corners under the plaster mortar to give the corner edges of the window opening a clear geometric shape.

The layout scheme must be selected in such a way that the width of the tiles on both sides coincides and the seams between the tiles coincide in all planes.

The seams between the tiles must coincide in all planes

The corner can be finished using grout. Therefore, fixing the tiles at the corners should be done in the manner shown below.

Corner finishing is done using grout

In another case, you can use a decorative corner.

Installation of new window and door units requires mandatory finishing of the slopes, because... Without this, the reliability of the installation will be much less, and you can’t count on a beautiful appearance - a bare wall with traces of polyurethane foam is unlikely to fit into the interior. Various materials can be used for lining slopes:

plastic cladding is the most economical option, however, the appearance leaves much to be desired;
plasterboard cladding – standard option, moderately complex, pleasant to look and feel;
cladding with natural or artificial stone - used only when the interior design concept requires it; this is the most expensive and complex type.

Something in between standard and elite cladding is the cladding of door and window slopes with tiles; this option can be used in a wide variety of interiors; a wide variety of colors and textures of tiles allow you to create either just a flat, monochromatic surface or entire compositions. This type of cladding is much simpler than working with stone, but certain nuances of the work must be taken into account and observed.

Tiling door and window slopes - the main subtleties

An important requirement when facing slopes is that they must be level. Therefore, the surface must be pre-prepared, leveled and dried. Particular attention should be paid to the corners. When choosing a material for leveling, you need to take into account that the tiles will be laid on top of it.

It is unlikely that you will be able to do without cutting the tiles, so you need to start the job correctly. You should tile from the outer corner, only the whole tile should be laid here, and when you reach the junction with window block or door frame, lay cut tiles. If the opening is located in the middle of the wall being tiled, then you need to calculate the installation in such a way that there are no narrow fragments of tiles along the edges of the wall and at the door slopes.

Direct tiling of door and window slopes with tiles can be done in several ways, offering various options for joining the treated surfaces. This is perhaps the most difficult process, because In itself, laying tiles on slopes does not have any special conditions. But joining two surfaces - a wall and a slope - can create many difficulties.

Methods for joining surfaces

The first option is to cut the tiles from the back side at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, theoretically, a high-quality monolithic joint will be obtained. In practice, everything is much more complicated - cutting tiles at the same angle is very problematic, the process itself takes a lot of time, and the weakened edge may begin to collapse over time.

The second option is to use special fittings. There are special plastic or aluminum corners on sale that securely hold the edges of the tiles and cover the joint. Options are offered for both external and internal joints; the corners have different dimensions, shapes and colors. When using corners, the slope is first lined, then the corner is mounted, then the other side is lined. It is important to fix the tile tightly in the corner, otherwise the connection will be flimsy and may move away from the wall.

Technology for tiling slopes/video:

The third option is to use corners together with grout. In this case, first the door and window slopes are tiled, then the wall is tiled, after which all joints are thoroughly rubbed. Excess grout is removed, and the corner joint is closed with a plastic corner attached to liquid nails.

Tiling window and door slopes in the kitchen and bathroom can become one of the most noticeable “highlights” of the created interior. In this case, all requirements will be taken into account, and practicality will become one of the main advantages of the design.

Ceramics has many positive qualities: strength, high wear resistance, durability, minimal water absorption, hygiene, does not allow electric current to pass through, fire safety, environmental friendliness, affordable cost, decorativeness and a wide selection of colors, shapes and sizes.

The main condition, without which the work will not be completed efficiently, is good preparation bases for tiles. Slopes and other surfaces to be finished must be smooth. It is necessary to prepare them in advance. There are several methods for leveling slopes: using plaster, drywall or chipboard. It is especially important to do proper insulation and eliminate the possibility of freezing of corners or any other sections of the slope. In bathrooms and others damp places at home, you will need to pre-treat the base with impregnations or primers that create additional protection from moisture.

It is impossible to do without trimming some parts and therefore it is necessary to have a special tool and skills in handling it. If you lack experience, it will not be possible to perform high-quality finishing and in such a situation it is better to entrust the matter to professionals, or pay attention to the mosaic or details small size. In most cases, they are easier to work with and virtually no trimming is required.

In general, “tile” can mean many types of coating. Some of them are more suitable, others less so. You have to choose from the following types of tiles:

Tile. Traditional ceramic tiles, suitable in all respects. Easy to clean, looks beautiful, huge range of colors. Sometimes you can get by with a minimum number of cut parts if you choose the right size.

Porcelain tiles are more difficult to process; almost all elements will require trimming due to large sizes. However, you can also search suitable model. Finishing with such tiles is suitable mainly for wide door slopes, where a minimum of parts will need to be cut. Looks beautiful and lasts a very long time. It is worth choosing models with a glossy or glazed finish.

The design of doors and windows with brick tiles looks beautiful. If the interior is decorated in a style that involves the presence of brick surfaces, such decoration of a window or doorway will be very appropriate.

It is better not to use tiles that imitate stone for internal slopes in the kitchen. The surface of such tiles, as a rule, has a complex texture and gets very dirty. Grease and soot, typical of kitchens, will quickly ruin the appearance of the surface. If you coat the parts with varnish, it will be easier to clean them, but still this is not the best suitable option.

Mosaic. One of best options in the absence of experience in finishing work and laying tiles. Dimensions individual elements are small, which allows for precise adjustment without trimming parts and simplifies work. At the same time, it looks original and beautiful. This type of tiling of door slopes looks good in the bathroom.

Finishing slopes with clinker tiles is most often used when exterior decoration. Some types of exterior home design involve framing windows and doors with brick or stone; clinker in this case will be excellent choice. You just need to choose products for external cladding work.

Before starting work, try on the parts in place and decide on the layout. The layout scheme must be selected in such a way that the width of the tiles on both sides coincides and the seams between the tiles coincide in all planes.

Lay out the tiles starting from the corner. The principle is the same as when laying tiles on a wall - the first bottom row is laid out first.

Before gluing the tiles, special metal or plastic perforated corners are attached to the corners, giving the edges the correct shape.

To make corners look nice, you can use trimming elements at an angle to create even corner connections(the joint will be almost perfect) or use special decorative elements for corner joints.

Do not forget to pre-prime all surfaces to be tiled. start from the corner. When laying, the masonry elements are pressed tightly against each other, leaving no seams. If there is a desire for seams, plastic pegs are inserted between the parts.

The seams are filled grout mixture using a construction syringe. The grout is distributed along the seam using a brush.