Royal pelargonium is an original plant for a bright landscape! Pelargonium flower

Royal pelargoniums are a beautiful flowering indoor plant. The flower is often called geranium, but this is a misnomer. Despite the general similarity, these are 2 different plants.

Royal pelargonium belongs to the genus Pelargonium, which has 250 plant species. Most representatives of the genus are unpretentious plants, which grow well in rooms, open ground and on balconies.

Royal pelargonium, or large-flowered pelargonium, is most often grown in a flowerpot indoors. This is due to the capriciousness of culture. The flowering period of Pelargonium grandiflorum is much shorter than that of geranium, and not proper care leads to its complete absence.

Neat bushes with large flowers serve as decoration for any room. The pelargonium flower is similar to viola flowers. Viola is called pansies. The upper petals of the flower are larger and have spots and streaks of dark color. The lower 3 petals, arranged in a fan shape, may be of a lighter shade and without dark spots. Color range: pink, purple, white, burgundy and red. The diameter of the flowers is 7-8 cm, and in some species reaches 15-16 cm. They are simple or double. The edge of the petal can be wavy or corrugated.

The plant is a compact bush 50-70 cm high. Pelargonium branches well, but the branches are quite fragile and should be handled carefully so as not to damage them.

Pelargonium grandiflorum has serrated and rough leaves. They are shaped like maple leaves and the color is solid green. Royal pelargonium does not have the characteristic smell of geraniums.

Pelargonium is planted in balcony containers, but it feels better in cramped pots. Therefore, it is better to plant it in hanging flowerpots. One of the varieties of the royal geranium flower is called angelic pelargonium, it is no higher than 30 cm.

Home care

Royal Pelargonium blooms less than other types of geraniums, 2-4 months. Moreover, the plant is so capricious that if the conditions for its wintering are not met, it will not bloom. On winter days, pelargonium should be organized additional lighting and temperature environment+15 °C. This crop does not like rainy and windy weather. Therefore, it is better to grow it on a balcony, veranda or terrace, where there is no wind and plenty of fresh air.

Royal pelargonium loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. Any bright places and windows, except the north side, will suit her.

In winter, the crop needs to rest; the pots are placed in a bright and cool place, and additional lighting is provided. Otherwise, the shoots will stretch and the plant will not produce buds.

To ensure normal growth of the flower, it should be watered regularly and correctly. The culture does not tolerate waterlogging. In summer, the soil in the pot should be moist. Water, focusing on upper layer soil. If it has dried out, then the plant can be watered. In winter, water 2 times a month. The water is settled, its temperature should be room temperature or higher. Water pelargonium through a tray, it will take it itself required quantity water. Before the buds appear, the leaves are sprayed 1-2 times a week.

All species of the genus Pelargonium do not like spacious pots. New dishes for planting plants, choose only 1.5 cm larger in diameter than the old one.

The soil mixture for planting royal pelargoniums consists of turf soil, peat and sand. Fertilize the flower with a special fertilizer for pelargoniums. During the growing season, fertilizing is applied 2 times a month, the rest of the time - 1 time a month.

Pruning Pelargonium grandiflorum

You can get a lushly flowering bush using correct pruning. Main mistake For many beginning gardeners, pruning is done in the spring. The best time for crown formation indoor pelargonium- late autumn and early winter.

Incorrect pruning leads to the growth of very long stems, which is why the bush loses its decorative effect.

For correct formation crowns, the following rules must be followed:

  • pruning is done as close as possible to the point where the branch begins to grow;
  • shorten the branches with pruning shears or a sharp, disinfected knife at the level of the leaf node;
  • Bushes should be pinched with clean hands;
  • cuts and pinched areas are treated with ground cinnamon or charcoal;
  • The stems growing inside the bush are cut off completely; cuttings can be made from them for planting pelargonium.

The plant should rest for at least 2-3 months. During this period, it cannot be cut or pinched.

Reproduction and transplantation

The plant does not like frequent transplants, as a result of which flowering is not abundant and its period is shortened. Experienced gardeners recommend replanting the crop every 2-3 years. It is better to replant in the spring, after a dormant period.

You can propagate a flower in 2 ways:

  • stem cuttings;
  • seeds.

It is better to sow seeds in spring. Seeds are purchased in specialized stores. They are sown in peat. Shoots appear within 7 days. After the first leaves appear, the seedlings are transplanted into pots of suitable diameter. To prevent the plant from damaging the roots and to take root faster, it is replanted with a lump of earth.

The flower can be propagated by cuttings all year round. The material used is cuttings obtained by pinching royal pelargonium. The cuttings for planting should be 5-7 cm long and have 2-3 leaves. The cut of the cutting is treated with charcoal or ground cinnamon. Planting material pre-dried for outdoors 2-12 hours. The pot for planting the cutting should be small so that the plant does not grow large root system, but formed a bush.

Since Pelargonium grandiflorum does not tolerate high humidity, cuttings should not be soaked in water to grow roots. In water they turn black and disappear. Plants planted from cuttings bloom the next year.

Problems during cultivation

The main problems that gardeners may encounter when growing crops:

  • stems are pulled out, the bush becomes unattractive, weakened, growth and budding stops;
  • high soil moisture leads to the appearance of yellow leaves and their fall, to a black leg, as a result of which pelargonium disappears;
  • overdrying of the earthen clod leads to yellowing of the leaves and cessation of flowering;
  • appearance rust spots on the leaves - this is the first sign of aphid or whitefly infection, or sunburn, so the plant should be protected from direct sun rays.

Before planting royal pelargonium, the pots should be washed laundry soap, you should wash used containers especially carefully. Pots should have one or more drainage holes. Clay containers are more suitable for pelargoniums.

A drainage layer of clay shards is poured onto the bottom of the pot. The cuttings are rooted in a substrate consisting of peat and sand or a mixture of peat and perlite in equal quantities. Can be used peat tablets. The plants are transplanted into permanent pots in a mixture of turf and leaf soil, peat and sand.

The capriciousness of royal pelargonium is not a reason to refuse to grow it. By following the rules of care, you can enjoy its flowering for up to 4 months.

Popularly known as royal geranium, and in scientific literature as pelargonium, it has long been used to create landscape design: for landscaping window sills and balconies, decorating gardens and roofs of houses. Such widespread use is explained not only by the beautiful appearance, the delicious aromas of plants, but also some special positive energy that they bring into the house.

Pelargonium royal: a brief description

The name of the flower was not chosen by chance. This is truly a royal plant. It is presented in the form of an evergreen shrub. This culture is different maximum dimensions at 50 cm.

Royal geranium grows in a wide bush, and the peduncles are placed at the same level as the shoots. The plant is characterized by large flowers, up to 15 cm in diameter. The larger petals, which are located on top, usually have dark green spots. During flowering, a geranium bush has densely dotted open buds, sometimes resembling a lush bright ball.

Pelargonium royal: decorative properties

It should be noted that for many years, breeders have been putting a lot of effort into developing new varieties of this plant. They differ in the color of the flowers, their size and shape. The shades of royal geranium today are a mass of different tones: from white to inky purple. For example, white-pink pelargonium (Imperial), pale red with small brown spots (Aristo Shoko) and others are especially interesting for lovers of the flowers of this plant.

Also, the leaves of royal geranium have their own characteristics. These are rather large or small (in new species), jagged and rough leaves. Dark spots often stand out against their background and sometimes even contrasting stripes run along the veins.

The shape of the plant’s flowers is in most cases complex: their petals are double, and in some varieties they are corrugated or wavy. They are collected in several pieces and look like thick umbrellas.

Main features of the plant

Royal geranium is truly an aristocrat among other types of pelargonium. She is whimsical and light-loving.

This plant does not bloom for long: about a few months a year. Yes, and this only happens if throughout the winter she was provided with everything the necessary conditions. Royal geranium loves it if it receives additional lighting at this time.

It should be noted that this culture is afraid of wind and rain. Due to this the best option its placement will be a cozy corner of the veranda, balcony or terrace with plenty of fresh air.

Growing conditions for royal geranium

In order for royal pelargonium to successfully take root on the windowsill of the house and delight the eye with wonderful flowers for a long time, it is very important to provide it with the necessary conditions:

  • Correct placement. Flowers love the sun, but in hot weather they need to be removed from the windowsill, since direct hot rays of the sun can cause burns on the plant.
  • Compliance temperature regime royal pelargonium. It does not tolerate high temperatures, especially heat, this explains why royal geranium does not bloom. No higher than 15 degrees Celsius is the most favorable temperature for the plant. If this condition is not observed, then whiteflies or aphids may appear on the leaves of the crop.
  • The peculiarities of preserving flowering for a long time are ensured by two basic rules: additional lighting in winter and rare watering.

Royal geranium: propagation

Royal pelargonium can be propagated in two ways:

  • stem cuttings (throughout the year);
  • seeds (the best time for planting is spring).

It should be noted that royal geranium is very popular among gardeners. Plant seeds can be purchased at almost any specialty store. They are quite large. The seeds are planted in a peat mixture in the spring, and within a week the first green shoots appear. As soon as the leaves appear, they need to be transplanted into pots. To avoid damaging the roots, they should be taken with a small lump of earth.

Stem cuttings of royal geranium are recommended to be planted in August-September. They are taken at a certain length, which ranges from 5 to 7 cm, with 2 or 3 leaves. Before planting, it is very good to wilt the plant a little and sprinkle it with crushed wood charcoal. Pots for cuttings should not be too large, as this will cause them to grow weak, including the royal geranium flower itself over time. The propagation of this crop and its excellent growth are ensured by well-prepared soil:

  • peat mixture, with the addition small amount compost;
  • garden soil, where it is recommended to add a little sand.

Wet soil is not at all suitable for planting cuttings. It should only be wet. It is advisable to make drainage in pots from small pebbles. When watering them, you should avoid getting water on the stems and leaves, as they quickly rot.

It is important to know:

  • It is not advisable to germinate cuttings of royal pelargonium in water. In most cases, they still do not take root or simply rot.
  • During the first 12 months of growth, the royal geranium drives out runs and grows its roots, and pleases the eye with flowers only the next year.

It is recommended to replant royal geranium when the root system has developed to such an extent that it begins to penetrate outward through the drainage hole. New peas are taken only about one and a half centimeters larger in diameter than the old ones. Tight dishes provide best growth and flowering of culture.

Problems with growing royal pelargonium

Royal geranium - very capricious plant. When growing as a result of non-compliance with basic care rules, the following problems may occur:

  • stretching of internodes, which leads to weakening of the plant, it becomes weak and does not grow;
  • waterlogging of the soil or its drying out, and as a result, yellowing of the leaves;
  • damage to leaves by rust, the formation of aphids or whiteflies on them;
  • rotting of the plant under frequent watering.

Lack of flowers in royal geranium. Causes. Ways to solve the problem

Pelargonium is a rather capricious plant that requires careful attention. Therefore, very often many gardeners have the same question about why royal geraniums do not bloom. This may be due to the following reasons:

  • improper care of the plant;
  • the use of frequent transplants;
  • the presence of bacterial and fungal infections.

The second question that concerns many lovers of this plant: “What to do if the royal geranium does not bloom?” The first step is to carefully examine the royal geranium to detect the following problems: the presence of fuzz on the stems, dark spots on the leaves or rot, especially in the root part. Secondly, if the above signs of the disease are obvious, you should thoroughly clean the entire root system of royal pelargonium from the soil. Then it is placed for up to three days in a solution of potassium permanganate (it should be weak). After this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean all affected parts of the plant. It is recommended to remove them.

It is not advisable to use an old pot, and soil is strictly prohibited. Should be prepared new ground, which is very good to steam with boiling water. The old pot must be disinfected. To do this, use a solution of bleach.

Also, the plant does not bloom if the air in the room is too dry. This leads to the falling off of flower stalks and buds.

The soil used for planting cuttings of royal pelargonium must contain a sufficient amount of useful elements (phosphorus, manganese and potassium). But if there is too much nitrogen in the soil, then the plant will experience speed dial greenery, but in this case there is no flowering.

Royal geraniums do not grow and bloom well in large containers, since this does not promote budding, but leads to the growth of greenery. Wide pots are not suitable at all.

Royal geranium: care

Having such a whimsical queen on your windowsill, the first thing you need to do is provide her with normal conditions existence. The following rules will tell you how to care for royal geraniums correctly:

  • replant the plant every two or three years (depending on the variety);
  • provide an optimal temperature range: from 8 to 15 degrees Celsius;
  • adhere to moderate watering and air humidity;
  • arrange additional lighting when necessary;
  • It is contraindicated to place a pot of royal pelargonium in a hot place;
  • in pots (it is recommended to use ceramic containers), it is necessary to make a drainage hole;
  • protect the plant from wind and rain;
  • timely application of fertilizers with useful minerals.

Also, to ensure normal growth and active flowering of royal geranium, so-called rejuvenation should be carried out: cutting off the tops (up to 2 cm). Only a systematic approach to caring for royal pelargonium contributes to the normal development of the flower.

Royal geranium, otherwise called pelargonium, received such a majestic name for a reason. This plant is distinguished by its amazing beauty, elegance and grace. However, it also requires royal care. Unlike its counterparts of other varieties, this representative of the flora needs specific care and constant attention. If you don’t give the flower what it needs, you may never get lush buds.

The beautiful royal is a native South America, where humid and hot climate. That is why it feels great in warm rooms with high humidity. This amazing flower was brought to Europe only at the end of the 18th century. IN as soon as possible it has gained immense popularity among gardeners. Since that moment, breeders have been carrying out continuous work, as a result of which more and more new varieties of royal pelargonium are being born. It is difficult to name the exact number of species known today.

At home, this noble representative of the flora grows to a height of 60-80 cm. Growing taller bushes is not considered advisable, since flowers appear only at the highest points of growth. If geranium reaches 1 m in height, it completely loses its decorative qualities. However, if you are a fan of experimentation, you can try growing a 1.5 m tall bush in open ground. It will be an excellent backdrop for low-growing garden inhabitants.


Description of the royal plant

home distinctive feature royal geranium - gorgeous inflorescences. They can reach 25 cm in width. But to achieve such splendor, it is necessary to provide proper care for the plant. The more fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus you apply during preparation for flowering, the larger the buds will be. Typically, medium-sized inflorescences are found - about 15 cm.

All royals have oval spots in the central part of the petal. They are darker and more saturated than other areas. There are both classic and double royal pelargoniums. The latter look more advantageous. The shades of the buds amaze with their diversity. There are specimens of yellow, dazzling white, purple, red, pink and even orange flowers.


The petals of plants can be either flat, concave, or slightly wavy. The ruffled flower varieties of the royal plant are rare. The leaves are serrated, oval or round in shape. Their surface is usually rough and quite pleasant to the touch. The shade of the leaves depends on the general condition of the royal individual. If the flower is healthy and provided with everything necessary, its foliage has a rich emerald color. The central trunk and all shoots are tightly covered. And if the plant feels unwell, the foliage fades and parts of the bush become bare.

Unlike other varieties of geranium, the royal individual has a rather short flowering period. As a rule, it does not exceed six months. The indoor plant blooms in early spring.

Royal pelargonium (video)

What maintenance conditions does the flower need?

Like all representatives of the nobility, royal geranium makes high demands on living conditions. To make your pet feel comfortable, you must follow 4 basic rules.

  1. Royal geranium absolutely does not tolerate either waterlogging or drying out of the soil. In addition, it suffers from direct sunlight and winds. Therefore, experienced gardeners strongly do not recommend summer period plant this flower in open ground. Unlike his relatives, he will not be happy with such hardening. The only thing you can do in the summer is to take the pelargonium directly in a pot onto the balcony or garden. It is important to ensure that the plant is in partial shade and does not stand in a draft. Geraniums living on a windowsill need shading in the summer. If this is not done, sunburn may form on the leaves.
  2. Another rule that a gardener should write down in his diary: the royal specimen should not experience a lack of light throughout the year. Unlike zonal geraniums, which accumulate sunlight over the summer for the entire coming year and winter well even in rooms with poor lighting, the royal plant cannot live in the dark. With a lack of lighting, it stretches upward and also does not have the strength to lay buds for the next flowering. Therefore for lush flowering For fastidious beauty, flower growers are advised to purchase special fluorescent lamps.
  3. In order for geraniums to begin to bloom, care must be taken to maintain a special temperature regime. In winter, the plant feels great at 12-15°C. In such conditions, it lays buds for flowering next season. If the temperature is elevated and exceeds 24°C, the flower begins to experience discomfort. IN best case scenario it stops blooming, or at worst, stops growing completely.
  4. When caring for a royal specimen, special attention must be paid to watering. It is necessary to select the intensity of soil moisture taking into account the temperature regime. In summer, watering should be moderate and regular, in winter - sparing and quite rare. Experienced gardeners It is recommended not to pour the liquid from above, but to pour it into the pan. This is due to the fact that royal geranium does not tolerate soil compaction quite well. For watering it is better to take rainwater, or clean, settled liquid.


When and how to replant a plant?

Unlike its fellow plants, which endure annual replanting to and from the garden, the royal specimen is not a fan of such movements. It’s better not to disturb him with a transplant again. You only need to change the pot if the overgrown root system no longer fits into the old one. Until this point, you can limit yourself to only periodically adding fresh soil to the container.

It is recommended to replant pelargonium once every 2 years. If this procedure is not completed in time, the plant may not bloom or there will be very few flowers on the bush. It is better to transplant as early as possible. Optimal time- beginning of February. Afterwards, the flower begins to form buds and blooms.

The soil for the royal individual is no different from the soil that is suitable for other representatives of the species. You can prepare it yourself by mixing in equal parts:

  • der new land;
  • peat;
  • deciduous soil;
  • river sand.

Care must be taken to create a drainage layer. Otherwise, the plant risks dying due to stagnation of water at the roots. Expanded clay, crushed stone, and crushed sand can be used as drainage. Ceramic pots are best suited for growing hydrangeas. They ensure uniform distribution of air and maintain a suitable temperature of the earth ball. After transplantation, attention to the flower should be increased.


What fertilizers does geranium need?

Royal geranium needs fertilizer during the period of active growth, bud formation, and flowering. Nutrients must be added every 2 weeks from late March to mid-November. It is better to use liquid fertilizers, for example, good remedy is an iodine solution. To prepare it, add 1 drop of the substance to 1 liter of water. About 50 ml of the prepared composition is carefully poured over the walls of the pot. When removing a larger volume of fertilizer, there is a risk of damage to the root system.

You can also use store-bought ones to feed the plant. mineral fertilizers. However, it is important to ensure that nitrogen does not predominate in their composition. Otherwise, the stems and leaves will actively grow, but there will be noticeably fewer buds. It is better to choose mixtures with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. They will ensure long and abundant flowering.

It is not recommended to use fresh organic matter as fertilizer for geraniums. The royal plant simply does not accept such feeding.


When and how is pruning done?

Improper pruning is one of the most common mistakes made by beginners when growing royal geraniums at home. Most gardeners believe that the optimal time for this procedure is the beginning of spring. However, this opinion is wrong. It is better if pruning is carried out immediately after flowering has completed, that is, at the end of August or beginning of September. If you treat the bush in the spring, it is unlikely to bloom next season.

It is optimal if pruning is carried out in 2 steps with an interval between sessions of 1-1.5 months. In this case, the royal person will experience less stress and will endure the procedure more easily. After removing excess parts of the plant, be sure to pamper the geranium with fertilizers.

If pruning is done correctly and on time, young shoots will begin to appear on the geranium in the fall. They must be pinched over 4-5 pairs of leaves. In this case, new stems will grow even more actively. Professional flower growers, who create excellent exhibition specimens, carry out an average of 3-4 pinchings per season. As a result, by spring the decorative bush takes on a compact shape and blooms profusely. The number of pinchings for amateur gardeners largely depends on the conditions under which the plant is kept. Don’t forget: in any case, the last procedure must be carried out no later than the beginning of February. If within winter period the bush has become very elongated; it will be better if, instead of final pinching, the overgrown shoots are pruned.

Proper care of geraniums (video)

Plant propagation methods

Cuttings are the simplest, most effective and common method of propagating royal geraniums. For it, you can use the tops with 3-4 pairs of leaves obtained during pruning. However, you need to know that cuttings of this plant cannot be rooted in water. In conditions high humidity they do not grow roots, but only rot.

To propagate a bush, you need to create cut points with charcoal, dry it a little and immediately plant the cuttings in the ground. Optimal soil composition: a mixture of equal parts of perlite and peat. It is recommended to immediately plant young plants in separate pots; you can also use peat cups. This will prevent the mass death of green pets if care and reproduction were carried out incorrectly.


After about 1-2 months, the plants will take root completely, after which they can be transplanted into a nutrient mixture consisting of turf and deciduous soil, sand and peat, mixed in equal parts. There is no need to cover the cuttings with jars or polyethylene; it is enough to keep them in a warm room with moderate lighting, ensuring timely watering.

For lush flowering and full growth during the growing season, young bushes must be fed periodically. It is better to use mineral fertilizers with low nitrogen content. During flowering, which, if properly cared for, occurs approximately 6-9 months after rooting, it is recommended to use fertilizers for flowering indoor plants. You can purchase them at any specialized store.

The royal specimen, unlike other types of pelargonium, does not like to reproduce by seeds. Usually, when using this method, the characteristics of double and semi-double quality of the most beautiful mother varieties are not transmitted. However, if you are a fan of experiments, be sure to try growing wonderful geraniums from seeds. You may be able to create a new look.

Why doesn't royal geranium bloom?

Amateur flower growers who have become owners of a beautiful royal geranium are looking forward to the moment when the beautiful green pet blooms. However, they often have to experience disappointment: instead of the most beautiful large inflorescences, the fastidious royal geranium produces only abundant foliage, and the rapidly growing shoots stretch out and spoil the whole appearance. Why is this happening? Most likely, when caring for the plant, the basic rules were violated:

  • the bush suffers from lack of lighting or due to incorrectly selected temperature conditions;
  • the flower lives in a pot that is too large;
  • applied fertilizers have an unbalanced composition;
  • the transplant was not carried out on time;
  • pruning was performed in violation of basic rules or was completely absent.

All reasons for the lack of flowering can be eliminated quite easily. Once this is done, the wondrous royal will delight yours with lush blooms.

What diseases and pests are dangerous for geraniums?

Like any others houseplants, royal pelargonium is susceptible to diseases and pests. Typically, illnesses attack a green pet due to violations of the conditions of detention. However, if you constantly monitor the plant and take timely measures, dangerous consequences the invasion will be avoided.

  1. If your indoor beauty's leaves have turned yellow, she may be suffering from a lack of moisture or nutrient deficiency. The same symptom indicates that the pot is too crowded and even overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers.
  2. The leaves have become limp and drooping, and mold or mildew has formed on them. brown spots? Look for the cause in excessive watering. Excessive moisture can also cause the appearance of depressed dark spots on the stems.
  3. The falling of the lower foliage, the exposure of the stem and the stretching of the top of the bush are clear signs that the green pet is suffering from a lack of lighting. If an incorrectly selected temperature regime is added to this, you may not expect lush flowering of geraniums.

Sick and depressed plants become easy prey for pests. Royal pelargonium can be attacked by whiteflies, aphids,. Action must be taken immediately after uninvited guests are discovered. It is necessary to isolate the affected plant from other indoor pets and treat its leaves with a soap solution. If this does not help, spraying with insecticides is required.

The name royal pelargonium fully justifies itself. This is a truly luxurious and capricious flower, truly a royal person among pelargoniums or simply geraniums. Caring for royal pelargonium has its own characteristics, and getting it to bloom is not always easy; you need to know some nuances. The plant is light-loving. In winter, its shoots become very elongated due to insufficient lighting, and the plant needs to be shaped by pruning every spring. At the same time, the top layer of soil in the pot is replaced with fresh one, without replanting the plant.

Royal pelargonium does not tolerate waterlogging; it can even make it sick. But the soil should be constantly moist in summer, and watering should be sufficiently abundant. In winter, water less frequently, only a couple of times a month. The water should be settled and at room temperature. Watering is carried out through a tray. This prevents soil compaction, which royal pelargonium cannot tolerate. And the roots will receive a sufficient amount of moisture through the pan. Caring for royal pelargonium should include a dormant period in the winter months with scanty watering and an air temperature of 13-15 degrees. In this plant, bud formation occurs only at low temperatures.

Another little secret concerning pelargonium. All geraniums, including royal pelargonium, bloom better in cramped containers, so they are transplanted only when the root system is so developed that it penetrates out through the drainage hole. But even then, you need to choose a new pot only slightly larger than the old one, 1.5 centimeters in diameter. To fertilize, buy special fertilizers for pelargoniums and apply them twice a month during the growing season.



Growing royal pelargonium

The main whim of this aristocratic beauty is that, compared to other types of pelargonium, it does not indulge us in very long flowering.
Royal pelargonium blooms very little - only a few months a year. And even then it pleases with flowers only on the condition that in winter it was provided with the correct maintenance: a cool temperature (not higher than +15 degrees) and additional lighting.
However, those flower growers who once saw the enchanting bloom of this beauty and fell unconditionally in love agree to all her whims. Providing the nuances of caring for noble pelargonium begins to seem like a small thing to them compared to the long-awaited celebration of its flowering!

So, in order for royal pelargonium to successfully take root in the house and delight you with regular flowering, you must follow several important rules:

1. Accommodation. Royal pelargoniums love to bask in the gentle rays. But in extreme heat, you need to additionally protect this plant from the hot sun, because otherwise it can easily get burned.

Unlike other types of pelargonium, which live safely in the garden during the warm season, royal pelargonium is afraid of rain and wind. Therefore, it is better to leave it at home or place it in a cozy corner of a glassed-in terrace, veranda or balcony with plenty of fresh air.

2. Temperature conditions. Aristocratic pelargonium does not tolerate heat. Having given all my strength to exist in conditions high temperature, royal pelargonium then does not grow for a long time and, moreover, does not bloom.

It is advisable that the winter and night temperature of keeping it in a bright, cool place does not exceed 15 degrees (which is easy to arrange in winter garden, but not always possible in a living room).

In unfavorable conditions, especially in the heat, pests (aphids, whiteflies) appear on the leaves of royal pelargonium.

3. Flowering. Considering the relatively short period of flowering of noble pelargonium, I want to observe this beauty longer!
As emphasized above, for longer and more luxuriant flowering you need to winter time provide the correct temperature conditions and additional lighting and infrequent watering. Then many flower buds will form on the bush.

Royal pelargonium will bush better and bloom more luxuriantly if you regularly pinch the tops of the plant's shoots in advance. But this procedure should be stopped long before flowering begins, so that the buds have time to form on the bush.

Fertilizing the plant during the period of active growth, in spring and summer, helps prolong the flowering of noble pelargonium. Ideal use liquid fertilizers For flowering plants high in potassium and microelements.

From March to August, noble pelargonium requires abundant watering, but without stagnation of moisture!
And, of course, to prolong the flowering of the pelargonium bush and maintain a neat appearance, you need to remove fading flowers.

Reproduction of royal pelargonium

Royal pelargonium is propagated vegetatively, by cutting the tips of the shoots. Best time for this procedure - late summer and early autumn, August-September.

The ends of the cut apical cuttings of noble pelargonium with 2-3 internodes should be sprinkled with charcoal powder with the addition of “Kornevin”, and then dry them a little (a couple of hours).

After this, I place the cuttings prepared for planting in moistened sand or a mixture of sand and peat (in equal parts).
Under no circumstances should you cover rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium!

The classic method by which vegetatively zonal pelargoniums are usually propagated - rooting cuttings in water - is not suitable for noble pelargonium. Because royal pelargonium cuttings placed in water inevitably rot. Yes and mature plant It does not tolerate excessive watering: its roots rot and gray mold appears on the shoots. For this reason, rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium need to be watered very carefully: only as the substrate dries, and only along the edge of the pot.

I transplant the rooted young plants into pots with drainage holes and a drainage layer filled with light nutrient substrate.
Well-groomed royal pelargoniums grow their root system well, develop successfully, and form beautiful bush and bloom the next year.






Orolevo geranium requires careful and attentive care, as the plant is quite capricious. In insufficient light it blooms poorly or does not bloom at all. In addition to intense lighting, it also requires sufficient coolness (10-15 degrees). Therefore it is recommended in summer time keep outdoors for years. This delicate plant has a brittle stem with beautiful flowers. To enhance flowering, the plant must be fed once a week during the period when buds appear with standard fertilizer for flowering plants. Removing dried flowers and leaves will also encourage flowering.

Royal geranium grows well. After the end of the flowering season, it is necessary to form a crown, i.e. trim branches and pinch out buds. This cannot be done in the spring, because the plant is entering the flowering phase. In summer, the plant needs to be watered abundantly, and in winter – sparingly. The temperature in winter should be maintained around 10-15 degrees Celsius, for which it is moved closer to the glass or placed on closed veranda(loggias).

There is no need to replant geraniums often, because they need loose, light, nutritious soil that drains well. It is better to use soil from a mixture of sand and turf soil in a 1:1 ratio or a mixture of equal parts of sand, perlite and high peat, previously disinfected. As the plant ages, it loses its attractiveness - the stems grow and fall apart, so there is a need for pruning, that is, rejuvenation, which involves cutting off the apical cuttings of the flower.

Many types of geranium take root easily at any time of the year, but not royal geranium, it requires special conditions.

Since propagation by cuttings occurs at the beginning of spring and end of summer, the air temperature in spring should fluctuate in the range of 18–20 degrees, and in summer no more than 25 degrees. If the temperature regime is not observed, rooting becomes weak and not all cuttings take root. In cold summers, the entire period of active growth is suitable for reproduction. And in the spring, the plant from which cuttings are taken for propagation should enter the active growth phase.

Cuttings cut with a sharp knife and dried are planted in the ground. Rooting lasts about 3 weeks, and they are not watered, but only sprayed. After rooting, the central stem of young plants is pinched for branching.




I’m afraid to disappoint you, but I don’t have any special secrets in growing royal pelargoniums. Everything is like everyone else.
Previously, royal pelargoniums grew on my windowsills and bloomed wonderfully.
The varieties that performed best at home were Aztec, Dark Secret, Eileen Postle, Fareham, First Blush, Hazel Candy, Imperial, Lord Bute, Mont Blanc (this is generally a very hard-working variety), Peter's Choice, Roussilion, Vampires Kiss, Bold Candy and RAS varieties. But this is my observation regarding these varieties. They did not stretch much and bloomed profusely.
This year we have the most comfortable conditions for wintering pelargoniums. Now they winter at a temperature of +15 degrees (too much, they need it cooler). On a sunny winter day the temperature is daytime reaches +30 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly ventilate, for which vents in the roof were specially equipped. Last winter, the pelargoniums overwintered in a film greenhouse, where the temperature did not rise above +10 degrees, and in severe frosts it was +4 degrees. This is what they need. Plants from this temperature become very stocky, many buds are laid in the axils of the leaves. And the color of the flowers becomes more intense. Moreover, along with the royal ones, both zonal and ivy-leaved ones spent the winter there. Everyone felt great in such conditions. Regarding pruning, I can say that I am a supporter of coordinated measures. Sometimes I trim so that lignified stumps remain without a single leaf. The main thing is not to be afraid, otherwise it will be more expensive for yourself later. The plant will stretch out and bloom somewhere on the top of the head. After a while (you will have to wait for a while), these stumps begin to overgrow and turn into fluffy bushes. And every time after pruning you wonder, will they really grow back? And they grow - small buds, begin to wake up along the woody stem. And one more main point. After pruning, you need to be careful with watering, since there is little leaf mass, as a result of which evaporation and photosynthesis are slowed down. Due to excess moisture, there is a possibility of soil acidification and, as a result, rotting of the root system. I do the pruning at the end of September - beginning of October and immediately replant it in new soil. I make the soil mixture myself. The main part is pine needles, fortunately they grow around the city pine forests. I also add purchased Terra Vita soil, coarse white sand (precisely coarse) and a little humus (just a little, because if you overdo it, the soil will turn out heavy, it will sour and quickly cake). Instead of sand, you can use perlite or vermiculite, but sand is cheaper, since my husband brings it to me from the Don River. The earth mixture turns out airy and very crumbly, and main role sand plays in this. I replant my “Queens” every year - there are enough nutrients in such soil for full growth and flowering for a year. I have never fertilized anything before. Pelargoniums bloomed, so to speak, from their own potential and received all their nutrients from the ground, which was already moderately fertilized with humus. Now I’m conducting a small experiment: I water one part with Kemira Lux fertilizer (I read a lot about the miraculous properties), and the other part with plain tap water, as I did before. I want to see who will bloom faster and more luxuriantly, and in general what the differences will be. I will definitely write about the results of my experiment.
And the main thing that is our mistake is that, having received a cutting of a new variety, we are looking forward to its flowering (well, now, it seems like the buds have already appeared). But there are no buds, they turned out to be leaves, and then again leaves. And the end result is a plant that looks like a “giraffe” with flowers on the top of its head. But you don’t need to do this, otherwise it will be more expensive for yourself and a lot more fuss. This is what happened to me with the Marchioness of Bute variety (well, I really wanted to see how it blooms). In two years it grew into a meter-long stick and did not bloom - alas. Yesterday I got angry with him and gave him a blow to the head. Maybe he’ll get scared and decide to please me with flowers someday. I don’t make such mistakes anymore and I don’t advise you to.
Oh, sorry, it turned out to be a whole poem.

Http://pelargonium-club.ru/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t781.html

Royal pelargonium is a flower that can easily be grown at home. It is often confused with geranium. The main difference between pelargonium and geranium is that the latter has all the petals same size. The care and propagation of this plant is quite simple.

Royal pelargonium: plant features

Besides the fact that a flower has petals different shapes(the lower 3 petals are longer than the upper 2), it has several main features:

  1. The flowers of this plant reach 15 cm in diameter.
  2. Variety of colors. Today there is a wide variety of colors of this type.
  3. The size and number of flowers depends not only on timely watering, but also lighting. This factor must be taken into account when planning plant care.
  4. The flowering period of this plant lasts much less than that of other species. In addition, the plant may not bloom at all if you choose the wrong care for this flower.
  5. You can grow pelargonium both in the garden or on the balcony, and at home. It is worth noting that growing a flower on a windowsill is the safest and most comfortable for the plant, since it is sensitive to soil and air humidity.

Flower propagation also occurs in a special way. In order to know how to care for this plant, you need to know the basic favorable conditions for his existence.


How to propagate and transplant pelargoniums?

It is recommended to replant pelargonium at least once every 2-3 years. If you replant too often, the flowering of the plant will slow down. The optimal time for transplantation is spring. It is worth noting that during this same period it is advisable to carry out reproduction.

The note! When replanting a flower, it is also necessary to trim the shoots and remove dry leaves and stems.

It is necessary to replant pelargonium into a small pot where the roots will be a little cramped. It is advisable to prune and replant pelargonium for the first time in the fall. During this period, weak shoots need to be pruned. In spring, dry leaves are removed from the stems and the shoots are pruned. This must be done so that the flower grows faster. Pelargonium stops pruning 6-7 weeks before flowering.

Reproduction (cuttings) of pelargoniums

  1. Propagation by cuttings begins with cutting off stems 7-11 cm long. After which the cuttings are planted in the ground.

    Important! The stems should be planted in the ground after they have been left in the open air for 2-4 hours. As soil, it is necessary to use a mixture containing peat and sand in equal proportions.

  2. In order for the stems to take root, you need to put a plastic bag on the pot with the cuttings.
  3. It is necessary to water the soil in the pot with cuttings periodically, maintaining constant humidity.
  4. After independent roots appear in the plant, it can be transplanted into a separate pot.

Thus, replanting a plant with cuttings at home is quite simple.

Secrets of rooting geraniums

Diseases

If you don't know why your plant isn't blooming? Or why strange spots appear on it and it dies, make sure that the correct care of the flower is observed.
The main common manifestation of plant disease is rotting of the root and drying of the lower leaves of the plant. In order to protect a flower while it is blooming, it is necessary to provide it good care accompanied by sufficient light and water.


Usually, yellow leaves appear on the plant when it blooms with insufficient watering, as well as when it is exposed to direct sunlight.

A large amount of water can lead to dropsy or rotting of the root.

Based on the above, you can determine why your pet is not blooming. Remember, flowering depends on how well you care for the flower.

And a little about the author’s secrets

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