Installing a bathtub is a responsible task, because this piece of plumbing requires a very large load. An incorrectly installed and poorly secured bathtub can leak, and in worst cases, tip over and injure its owners. Therefore, before installation, read our article, from which you will learn about methods of attaching a bathtub and correct order production of work.
Features of the material
Regardless of the type, there are basic principles for installing a bathtub:
Installation of various baths
As we mentioned earlier, the type of fastening depends on the chosen bathtub.
In general, we can distinguish the following steps on how to install a bathtub to the wall:
- the bathtub is laid on its side and a drain pipe is mounted to it;
- the floor siphon is connected to pipes, most often these are flexible plastic pipes;
- legs are attached to the bathtub, and it is installed so that the siphon pipes can be connected to the sewer;
- check the tightness of the connected sewage system;
- if necessary, build a frame from plasterboard, a podium from foam blocks and install spacers.
How to seal a large gap in a wall
Usually, after installing a bathtub, there may be a large distance between the end and the wall. This will not allow the bath to be securely fixed on three sides, and it will move around. In this case, you can turn a disadvantage into an advantage and create a framework. As a result, you will have a shelf between the bathtub and the wall on which you can place shampoos, powder and other accessories.
There are several ways to seal a large gap:
- Create a frame from profiles, then sheathe it moisture-resistant plasterboard. Don't forget to make a hatch for access to the plumbing.
- Attach a block to the wall and make a shelf. One side of it will be supported on a block, the other on a bathtub or frame.
- If you don't have a hammer drill, another solution is to cut a strip of extruded polystyrene or polystyrene foam and insert it tightly into the slot. This is necessary so that the solution does not fall when sealing. Make a layer of plaster on top and cover all the cracks. You can also use polyurethane foam for this. Thus, in literally 15 minutes you will seal a large gap and get rid of rattling and knocking on the walls. If you already have tiles laid, seal them masking tape so as not to stain the surface.
When creating a shelf near the bathtub, make it sloping so that water does not accumulate there, but flows down. In addition, it is important to install the bathtub itself with an inclination towards the drain so that the water does not stagnate.
Installation on a podium
To install the bath on a podium made of bricks or foam blocks, an elevated platform is created. The bathtub is placed on the podium, while the legs remain on the floor. Before laying, the podium, walls and bottom are generously coated polyurethane foam.
Instead of a brick podium, you can fill plastic bottles water, close them tightly and place them on the floor. They will serve as a space filler when you need to create a “thick pillow”. Treat them liberally with foam and place the “belly” of the bath on them. This method is much cheaper and faster than a brick podium.
Homemade podium from polyurethane foam and bottles.
Another option is to create a wall that will support the side and hide internal communications. This method is especially suitable if you have adhesive legs, as they will not be able to reliably support the weight of the water and your body.
Lay tiles on top of the wall, or choose a different finish.
If you have any questions, watch the video instructions on installing and attaching the bathtub to the podium:
After installing and securing the bathtub, be sure to make sure that the seal is secure so as not to accidentally flood your neighbors.
The bath, despite the recent appearance of shower stalls, remains an unchanged and favorite attribute of many of us. If you are going to replace an old bathtub with a new one, and purchased a steel bathtub, then installing it will not be difficult, you just need to know some of the subtleties associated with installing this type of bathtub. In addition, installation steel bath in the market (the cost of services) costs money, and if you want to save an amount of money, it’s time to figure out how to install a steel bathtub with your own hands.
How to install a steel bathtub with your own hands?
Before installing a steel bathtub, it would be useful to learn about its advantages and disadvantages. As you know, the market mainly offers such types of bathtubs as cast iron, acrylic and steel. True, newfangled quaril bathtubs have recently appeared, but they are rarely found in stores, and there is no need to talk about installing them yet.
Installing a steel bathtub is much easier than for example, since a hot tub will require the knowledge and skills of not only a plumber, but also a good electrician. In addition, steel baths, unlike hydromassage baths, are not equipped with all sorts of “bells and whistles” in the form of water pressure regulators for massage or additional devices in the form of radios or game consoles. As you may have guessed, installing such a bathtub is a little troublesome, but also quite within the capabilities of an ordinary person.
Each of the baths has its own pros and cons. And before buying a steel bathtub, you need to pay attention to some of its technical features.
- 1. Firstly, a steel bathtub weighs heavier than an acrylic one, but much lighter than a cast iron one (up to 30 kg). Therefore, installing a steel bathtub with your own hands will require not two bathroom walls, but three. Only in this case, the steel bathtub, tightly adjacent to the three walls, will not sway and “ride” on the floor.
- The distance between two opposite walls must exactly match the dimensions of the steel bathtub minus 3-5 cm. For example, the distance between the opposite walls of the bathroom is 1540 mm, then the size of the bathtub itself from edge to edge should be no more than 1500 mm. Otherwise, if this condition cannot be met, you will have to choose another bathtub in size.
- Next, you need to note on what mounts the bath will be installed. Includes all steel baths Adjustable feet are included, and it would be better if they had self-adhesive pads rather than tie-down bolts. The fact is that during operation, the enamel will peel off in the places where the bolts are attached under load on the bathtub.
- And finally, you need to pay attention to the fasteners. Self-adhesive supports come in pairs and are attached to the bathtub using a common arc, shaped like a channel. So, you need the supports to be shorter than the length of the mounting bolts, and not vice versa.
- If it so happens that there is no choice, and only bathtubs with a certain type of fastener are available for sale, then for installation you must strictly follow the instructions included with the bathtub. In any case, installing a steel bathtub with your own hands will depend on the type of fasteners.
The obvious disadvantages of steel bathtubs include loud noise when filling the bathtub with water, as well as rapid cooling hot water. There's nothing you can do, a metal bathtub should have these properties. But these apparent disadvantages are easily eliminated when installing a steel bathtub, but it has no fewer advantages than other bathtubs.
Advantages of a steel bath:
- The light weight of the bath makes it easy to transport alone and easy to install. Before fixing a steel bathtub, you will not need to look for assistants and professional plumbers, since the installation, installation and fastening of such a bathtub can be easily done by one person.
- The metal base allows the bath to warm up quickly and does not take much time.
- The price of a steel bathtub is much lower than that of acrylic or cast iron bathtubs, which makes it accessible to most buyers.
- The enamel coating, produced in a factory, has a high degree of strength and does not chip when using a steel bathtub.
As already mentioned, minor shortcomings in the form of noise and rapid cooling of water can be easily eliminated with the help of special soundproofing materials. Naturally, this process is carried out before the steel bath is secured.
For insulation in production, rubberized material is usually used, which is glued to the outer surface of the bathtubs. For insulation at home, you can use a bitumen-based material, which is usually used by motorists to soundproof a car. The material is called “vibroizol” and is sold in special stores for spare parts for cars.
One of the sides of such material has an adhesive backing and easily adheres to metal surface at room temperature, which will allow you to complete the work quickly and without problems. Moreover, for insulation there is no need to cover the entire bathtub; it will be enough to do this in the place where the water falls into the bathtub, as well as in the place where the body is closest to the bathtub during bathing (the bottom and sides of the bathtub).
Insulation can also be done using ordinary polyurethane foam, which even layer The outer surface of the steel bath is coated. After applying the foam, a polyethylene layer is applied to the surface, which is pressed with your hands. After the foam has dried, you can turn the bath over and continue the installation process.
Installing a steel bathtub - instructions
The installation requires the following work steps:
When installing a steel bathtub, you can use building materials, which can withstand the weight of a bathtub of water and do not rot. These include materials such as brick, stone or metal. One of these materials is placed under the bottom of the bathroom so that the distance between them remains no more than 1 cm.
The most common on the market are steel bathtubs. One of the advantages of such containers is their relatively low cost and light weight, which makes installing a steel bathtub with your own hands quite possible.
The most common shape of steel bathtubs is rectangular. And such a container always comes with legs. Bathtubs with curved shapes are also available; in this case, you need to pay attention to the presence of additional supports or a special reinforcing frame.
The first step is to bring the pipes to the installation site of the mixer. For this it is better to use metal-plastic flexible pipes. Laying them along the bottom of the wall will not be difficult, securing special devices, which are installed on the wall with self-tapping screws and dowels.
Laying pipes in the bathroom
At the point where the pipes turn in the vertical direction, approximately 50 cm from the floor, you need to make two grooves along the thickness of the pipes and place the pipes in them. Secure with staples. Immediately screw the corners to the ends of the pipes to install the mixer. The axial distance between the corner outlets must correspond to the average axial distance between the mixer eccentrics.
Seal the grooves with pipes using alabaster to speed up the hardening process of the mass. Clean the bathtub installation site from debris and dirt.
Installation options for a steel bath
First of all, you need to make sure that dimensions The bathtubs correspond to the size of the bathroom, otherwise installation will be labor-intensive or even impossible.
On standard legs
As a rule, bathtubs are equipped with supports, which also need to be paid attention to. The desire of manufacturers to reduce the cost of their products in order to make them more attractive often has the opposite effect - the legs can only be used theoretically:
- the container must be dragged into the bathroom and placed upside down directly at the installation site;
- install a siphon - to do this, screw the bushings of the upper and lower drain into the holes of the vessel. In this case, you must not forget to install the rubber gaskets from the bathtub kit, having pre-treated them silicone sealant. Connect both holes with a corrugated tube. Install a corrugated pipe at the siphon outlet, which, after installation is completed, will be connected to the opening of the gravity sewer pipe;
Bath siphon with overflow drain system
- we install the legs - the most practical and reliable supports are “P” - shaped on a self-adhesive base. They have a slight deflection along the length, which eliminates unnecessary contact with the bathtub body. The places where the self-adhesive plates come into contact with the body must be degreased with acetone, followed by drying for 7 - 10 minutes;
Legs for steel bathtub
- assemble a control system consisting of threaded rods with plastic supports and nuts. Screw the studs almost all the way to the body. By turning out the studs when installing bathtubs, you can level the level of the bathtub. Place the assembled legs on the bottom of the bathtub and press it for strong gluing to the body;
It is better to attach the legs on an inverted bathtub
Adjusting the legs of the bathtub
Bathtub grounding
- turn the bathtub over and put it in place;
- check the horizontalness along the diagonals of the bathtub. To do this, you need to take a rule or a long ruler, place it diagonally across the bathtub and apply a level. It should be slight slope towards the drain, the same for both diagonals.
Installing a clawfoot bathtub
If adjustment is necessary, you need to use the adjusting screws that are equipped with the legs, and then secure their position with locknuts.
Bath installation diagram
To the corner of the room
With this arrangement of the container, two sides of the bath will be in contact with the walls. In order to achieve a reliable installation of a steel bathtub along the short side of the bathtub, it is necessary to make an additional support.
The procedure is as follows:
- drill 5 holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm in the support shelf of the corner 32x32 mm;
- Using the resulting holes, mark the locations for drilling holes in the wall and drill them with a 6.5 mm drill;
Special brackets for attaching the bathtub to the wall
- insert bushings (dowels) into the holes and screw the corner to the wall;
- move the bathtub into place, seal the gaps between the wall and the container with silicone sealant;
- In the future, install ceramic skirting boards in this place.
Fastening the bathtub with special brackets
Between the walls
Bathroom designers take into account standard sizes containers, so such a coincidence is very likely. There are three contact lines and support angles are installed on both short sides of the bath. The execution procedure is the same as described above.
Installing a steel bath between walls
In the middle of the room
In this design, bathtubs are installed in own homes, where it is possible to arrange a non-standard drainage system. The container is installed on bricks and lined with brickwork, which ensures its stability, and then tiles. A special feature of this installation is the presence of a niche at the bottom of the lining, half the length of a person’s foot in depth. In this case, the legs are not used.
Installing a steel bathtub on bricks
Many people consider this method preferable, especially those who are well acquainted with brickwork, and also if the height of the bathtub on standard legs for some reason does not suit the owner.
To raise the bathtub to the desired level, you can place bricks under the legs
An option for installing a metal container is to install it on decorative legs, if the bathtub is designed with a designer design on the outside.
Installation materials and tools
The necessary materials and tools are summarized in the table.
| Name | Application area | Conditions of use |
| Tools and accessories | ||
| Electric drill | Drilling holes in the wall for support corners. | When installed near walls without the use of brickwork |
| Drill with a diameter of 6.5 mm for concrete | Is the same | Ibid. |
| Drill with a diameter of 5.5 mm for metal | Drilling holes in the support corners | Ibid. |
| Marker | Marking locations for installing support corners on the walls, marking holes in the corners | Ibid. |
| Dowels | Attaching the support corners | Ibid. |
| Screwdriver or power screwdriver | Installation and fastening of support corners on walls | |
| Gas key | Puff threaded connections when installing a drainage system | In all installation options |
| Construction level | In all accommodation options | |
| Rule (a level bar is longer than the bathtub) | Control of horizontal installation of the container and adjustment of the slope | In all accommodation options |
| Construction trowel | Execution of brickwork when installing with tiling | When using brick supports and lining the bathtub with bricks |
| Notched spatula | Applying tile adhesive to tiles | When performing cladding |
| Wrench | Height adjustment of legs | In all locations |
| Materials | ||
| Corrugated pipe | Connecting the siphon to the sewerage system | In all installation options |
| Corner 32x32mm | Manufacturing of support devices on walls | When located near walls without the use of brickwork |
| Masonry mortar | Laying brick supports and cladding | When placed in the middle of the room or lining the bathtub with bricks |
| Sealant | When placed near walls | |
| Ceramic plinth | When sealing joints between the bathtub and the wall | When placed near walls |
| Tile | Facing device | When using brickwork |
| Tile adhesive | Facing device | Facing |
When installing a bathtub, you should follow some rules:
- before replacing a bathtub, it is better to consult with specialists, because innovations are constantly being introduced in this matter that will be useful when performing work;
Correct connection of the bathtub to the sewer
- Be sure to ground the bathtub, because the use of electrical appliances in the bathroom is by no means uncommon, including hair dryers and electric shavers and much more. No one has yet canceled the safety rules;
- the space under the bathtub must be thoroughly treated with antiseptics before placing it;
- requires the same processing brickwork when it is used for mounting a container. Otherwise, damage to the masonry is inevitable. A bathtub completely enclosed with masonry must have ventilation to allow moisture to escape.
Acrylic bathtubs today are gradually replacing other types of similar plumbing fixtures. They are made from lightweight, practical material. At the same time, the cost acrylic bathtubs remains acceptable to buyers. For them to last a long time, you need to install the bowl correctly. You can perform this procedure yourself. How to mount acrylic bathtub to the wall, will be discussed later.
Features of acrylic
It is quite possible to install an acrylic bathtub yourself. This is explained by the characteristics of this material. It is lightweight and practical. Therefore, products made from it are much easier to install in the bathroom than, for example, cast iron or steel bowls.
The advantage of acrylic bathtubs is the variety of their shapes and sizes. If desired, you can purchase a straight, angular, or shaped bowl. For any interior style you can choose suitable option. Therefore, when wanting to repair and replace a bathtub, owners of houses and apartments most often opt for acrylic plumbing fixtures.
It is also worth noting that bathtubs are on sale different sizes. They can be quite small. In this category, the most commonly purchased acrylic bathtub with a frame is 150x70 cm. However, other sizes are also in demand. The choice depends on the dimensions of the bath.
Acrylic has a high ability to retain heat. The water in such a bowl will not cool down quickly. Wherein inner surface easy to clean and does not turn yellow during use. This is true for products made from high quality acrylic. Baths in this case last for several decades.
During the installation process, it is important to correctly fix the bathtub in its intended place. If this work is not done correctly, the bowl will become deformed. This is a shortcoming of the material presented. However, it can be easily fixed by running correct installation.
Sustainability
The installation of an acrylic bathtub does not have to be trusted to professionals. You can do this work yourself if you wish. To do this, you need to take into account that the stability of this product in different planes is not the same. Thus, in the vertical direction, the structure on legs is stable. Manufacturers create supports that can withstand the weight of a bowl of water. This is easy to feel if you stand inside the bathtub.
However, in the horizontal plane the material cannot boast of stability. Acrylic and steel bowls quickly come out of balance in this direction. If the bathtub is left to move horizontally during installation, the sewer connection may be damaged.
It is also worth noting that an acrylic bathtub 170 cm long in a bathroom with dimensions, for example, 180x200 cm, can only be adjacent to the wall on one side. In this case, its side parts remain unfixed. The tightness of the joint between the wall and the bathtub will certainly break down over time if other fastening options are not provided.
For a bowl made of acrylic, it is important to choose one of correct options installations. This will allow you to securely fix the bowl in a horizontal plane, avoiding troubles in the future.
Wall mount
If you need to fasten an acrylic bathtub 170, 180, 150 cm wide or another size, you can position it in one of four positions. Possible the following options:
It is believed that the most durable installation option is to install the bathtub in a niche. This can be done in typical Khrushchev buildings. In such apartments the bathroom is very small. Therefore, by purchasing an acrylic bathtub 150x70 with or without a frame, you can ensure reliable fixation of plumbing between three walls. If the room is spacious, such an installation will be more difficult to complete. It will be necessary to build another partition to create a niche of the required size.
However, there are many ways to firmly fix the bathtub. It may not be in contact with the walls at all. True, it is much more convenient when the plumbing fixtures are not located in the center of the room. This option is suitable only for owners of very spacious premises.
To perform correct installation, you need to use special clamps. The fastening material must hold the bath firmly in the wall. Its main element should be bent upward. This will allow him to get closer to the wall below. The side of the bathtub is put on the fasteners. This way he can press closely to the wall below.
In order for the clamps to perform their intended functions, it is necessary to carry out precise markings, as well as control the position of all components during the installation process.
Factory fasteners
How is an acrylic bathtub attached to the wall? There are several options for such fixation. The delivery set may include reinforced steel frame. This is a prefabricated structure made from steel profile(square section). This frame is attached to the bottom of the bathtub. The design takes on the weight of the bath, water and people, evenly distributing the load across support posts, horizontal structural elements.
Installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame with your own hands is easy. The design allows the bowl to be firmly fixed. It can even be installed in the center of the room. She won't get loose. However, such a frame is not always included in the package. Sometimes, in order to save money, the manufacturer replaces it with two transverse bars. They have short legs. In this case, installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame with your own hands should be done next to the wall.
It is worth noting that simply propping the bowl up against a vertical surface will not be enough. Over time, it will begin to move away from the wall. A gap will appear between it and the bathtub. To prevent this from happening, the acrylic bathtub is fixed using special brackets. They can be purchased at a specialty store.
Before fixing the bathtub with brackets, it is recommended to glue the side double-sided tape or sanitary sealant. After this, the product is attached to the wall using brackets. This option is also suitable if the owners want to decorate the outer edge of the plumbing with tiles.
Insert into a niche
Considering existing methods mounting the bathtub to the wall, an option worth noting is inserting it into a niche. It is suitable for a room that does not even have a rough finish yet. To perform such an installation, a groove is cut into the wall. It needs to be created at the correct height.
To do this, the structure is assembled and installed on legs. Next it is placed against the wall. The installation height of the bath is determined. A line is made along the level of its side. Moreover, you need to take into account that tiles can still be laid on the floor, which will cause the height of the base to rise. The edge of the side of the bathtub will have to fit into the groove and rest on its edge inside the wall. The depth of the cutout should be at least 5 cm.
When the bathtub is installed in its intended place, the tiles are installed on the wall. The joint is coated with sealant.
Metal corners
If the finishing of the room has already been completed, you can use metal corners. First, the installation height of the bath is determined. Holes are created at the required level using a perforator. Dowels are inserted into them. Next, corners are applied to the wall (if necessary, holes are also made in them). The locking rod is screwed into the prepared seat.
The side of the bathtub is placed on this corner. He will lean on her. Next, you just need to coat the joints with sealant.
Step-by-step instructions for fixing to brackets
Fastening the side of an acrylic bathtub to the wall is most often done using brackets, corners or brackets. Installation in this case follows the same method. It is worth considering in more detail.
First you need to do correct markings. A line is drawn on the wall that corresponds to the location of the edge of the bathtub. To do this, the structure is assembled using a factory frame or cross bars with legs. The adjustment screws of the latter must be set to the middle position.
To attach an acrylic bathtub to the wall, the bowl is placed against a vertical surface. Markings are made on the wall along the side. It is important to find out the features of adjusting the legs horizontally. Subsequently, you will need to adjust the height to the height of the fasteners. The markings are checked using a level. It should be smooth. Otherwise, the bath will be skewed.
Completion of installation
Next, the selected type of fixture for the bathtub is installed. The clamps are embedded into the wall. To do this, use a hammer drill or a powerful electric drill. After this, the assembled structure of the bathtub and frame is installed on the brackets. The side should engage with the latches.
After this, use the adjusting screws on the legs to adjust the height of the bath. Its position is checked using a building level. Only after the cup has taken correct position, you can connect the siphon. Water communications are also provided. After this, finishing can be done in the room (if it has not been created previously). The joint between the bathtub and the wall is treated with sealant.
It is worth noting that similar recommendations apply to ordinary acrylic bathtubs. If the design includes hydromassage, it is better to entrust the installation to professionals. In this case, the operation of the system requires correct connection not only to plumbing, but also to electronics. Therefore, it will be difficult to carry out such installation with your own hands. Specialists will not only be able to correctly connect all the elements of the system, but will also firmly fix the bathtub against the wall.
Brick frame
In addition to attaching the acrylic bathtub to the wall with brackets and corners, you can resort to a more radical method. It allows you to firmly fix the structure, eliminating the possibility of it loosening. This method involves the construction of a brick frame.
In this case, from blocks and cement mortar a wall is being built required height. It should be taken into account that there should be a distance between the bottom of the bath and the floor. should not be monolithic. There should be a hole in it that provides access to the siphon.
Using bricks and cement mortar, a niche is built in the bathroom. A bathtub will be installed in it. Proceed to construction work possible only after purchasing a bathtub. The niche is created specifically for the specific dimensions of the plumbing fixtures. This method involves inserting bolts into the wall on which the bathtub will rest on the opposite side.
It is recommended to lay a layer of polyurethane foam between the bottom of the bathtub and the base of the room. In this case, damage reverse side bowls will be almost impossible. Also put down a special mounting film. When installing a bathtub in a prepared space, you need to fill it with water. This way it will fit better in the niche.
The bathtub is installed in the created niche only after the solution and foam have completely dried. All seams are then treated with sanitary silicone.
Some rookie mistakes
Fastening an acrylic bathtub to the wall can be done by inexperienced craftsmen. To install the bowl correctly, you need to consider several simple tips. Some beginners make mistakes when fixing plumbing fixtures to the wall. As a result, the bathtub wobbles, and the joint sealed with sealant begins to leak water. If no action is taken, the drainage system or bathtub body may be damaged.
To avoid problems later, you should not think that by moving the bathtub close to the wall and covering the joint with sealant or a special solution, you can achieve good fixation. To achieve this, you need to use brackets, brackets or other suitable fasteners. You can also make a cut into the wall, creating a groove. However, ordinary mortar or sealant will not be able to firmly fix the bathtub against the wall.
It is also worth noting that many craftsmen cover joints using gypsum-based solutions. Of course, such compositions are distinguished by their whiteness. But gypsum mixtures are absolutely not suitable for wet areas. Therefore, when creating finishing you need to use special white or transparent sealants. They must contain antiseptic components. Thanks to the use of sanitary sealant, fungus and mold will not form at the joints.
Having considered how to mount an acrylic bathtub to the wall, you can install it yourself correctly. In this case, the plumbing will last a long time and will not become loose or collapse.
When selling a bathtub, it includes legs or a more or less complex frame designed for its secure installation on the base. The design of any manufacturer is designed so that stability is not lost under the most unfavorable combination of loads - in the form of a full volume of water and a person sitting, standing on the bottom or climbing over the side.
With the advent of steel, and later acrylic bathtubs, many users of such sanitary equipment began to have doubts about the sufficient stability of the lightweight structure. People reacted simply - instead of standard legs or frame supporting structure They began to build a brick bed or several supports, on which the body of a bathtub of any shape was installed. There was a need to secure light bath to Wall.
Bath stability
The stability of the bathtub in the vertical direction is beyond doubt with any design of standard legs - they will all withstand the weight of water and this is felt by users. The only understandable concern is the stability of the body in the horizontal direction - in fact, light steel and acrylic bathtubs can be thrown out of balance in this direction.
One of the typical products is a bracket designed for attaching a bathtub to a wall. You can see how securely the hooking of the curved edge of the side of the acrylic bathtub is secured to this bracket
Users' concerns are not unfounded. Even the smallest degree of freedom of movement in any direction is dangerous by violating the integrity of the sewer drain connection. In some cases - a violation of the tightness of the seal connecting the housing to the wall.
That is why, to ensure complete inviolability, you need to ensure that the bathtub is secured to the wall. In this case, the possibility of horizontal vibrations disappears. The bathtub becomes completely stable regardless of the force applied to it.
Attaching the bathtub body to the walls
In a bathroom, the bathtub can be located in four layout positions:
- Island position - in the middle of the room.
- Near one wall.
- In a corner, in contact with two walls.
- In a niche, close to the walls on three sides.
It is important to mount it to the wall when placing the bathtub with only one side to the wall, sometimes in a corner position. The body, pinched on three sides, is completely unshakable.
The only technical possibility of attaching a bathtub to a wall is based on the fact that its sides of any design are bent downwards. This bend is what needs to be kept from moving the bathtub. The complexity of this operation lies in the fact that the natural place where you need to secure the side to the wall is inaccessible - it is covered by the housing.
Any way to secure the bathtub to vertical plane is to pre-install on this plane such fastening elements that will securely engage with the side bent downwards - when this side is lowered into place.
For such fasteners, you can use branded factory-made brackets, with the possibility of adjustment and rubber gaskets. Home master can install a homemade profile from a steel angle - such a fastening can be much more reliable than a branded one. You can even use L-shaped dowel fastenings. You can make rubber gaskets yourself - the fastening will be more reliable.
Wall mounting technology
Any fastener must provide several important conditions for reliable and durable operation:
- strong retention in the wall;
- The main retaining element of the fastener, bent upward, should have a slight downward approach to the wall. This is necessary so that the side of the bathtub, put on such fasteners, goes down during installation, and is pressed close to the wall;
- must be ensured high accuracy marking and installation of all components of such a system.
After determining the level of the lower edge of the bathtub, mark it on the wall with a line. Fasteners - staples, dowels or corners must be secured so that the side of the bathtub engages with them and the canvas is pressed against the wall. It is necessary to attach the side so that it cannot be moved by hand under the strongest impact.
Here is an approximate sequence of actions for installing a bathtub and attaching it to the wall:
- You must first completely assemble the entire structure of the bathtub including the legs and support frame. The adjusting screws of the legs should be positioned in the middle position.
- By assembled bathtub The side level is marked on the wall and the selected fasteners are installed. Before making such markings, you need to put the bathtub in place and find out the features of its horizontal adjustment.
- The bathtub complex with the support part is carefully lowered from top to bottom so that the side engages with the fasteners.
- The adjusting screws are used to finally level the bathtub body.
When the bath has taken its position, you can connect utility networks, and after that - lay out brick supports that will ensure the complete inviolability of this structure.
The difficulty of installing brick supports when installed bathtub is compensated by the fact that the master will not be able to place these supports where it would interfere with connecting the bathtub - all connections have already been made and are in plain sight. The brick supports do not extend up to the bathtub body by 10-20 m and this gap is filled with polyurethane foam, having first filled the bathtub with water.
However, you can secure the bathtub using another sequence of actions. The main thing is to make sure that the invisible downward-curved edge of the bathtub side is securely engaged with the fasteners.
Bathtub installation practice has shown that homemade devices fasteners and supports made of brick, concrete, and designer steel structures most often surpass in reliability the standard structures of the most famous manufacturers. Thoughtful rationalization of this type allows you to consider the bathtub absolutely reliable, without worrying about its stability and even operate it in any mode.
