How to make steps from concrete. How to pour monolithic concrete stairs? How to make a reinforced concrete staircase with your own hands

For the construction of concrete staircase structures can be used different technologies, a lot of stairs have been erected using each of them: monolithic, combined, prefabricated and type-set. But despite the general advantages of reinforced concrete products, only the monolithic one has the most complex configuration and any dimensions that do not contradict the standards.

From left to right: monolithic structure, structure with metal frame elements, serial factory flights, stacked steps

The MONOLITHICSTAIRS company offers its customers exactly this technology. Moreover, we were the first to use a self-supporting welded frame in the production of our structures, which increased the quality of our products many times over. We invite all our potential customers to familiarize themselves with the 4 stages technological process to ensure its thoroughness and reliability.

Only monolithic technology the device of stairs allows you to create structures of such complex geometry

Being the strongest of all existing ones, a monolithic staircase can have more than fantastic appearance

1. Calculation of concrete stairs and drafting

The technology of monolithic stairs requires careful calculation of all structural elements. This is due not only to the need to determine the size of the structure, but also to ensure the comfort and safety of its use.

Straight U-shaped stairs Straight L-shaped stairs Straight winder U-shaped stairs Semi-spiral staircases Main, facade stairs Atypical stairs

Important characteristics are:

  • Climbing angle. It determines what the length of the stairs will be. Having the same height, the one with the least slope will be longer. And this entails the use more materials for its construction.
  • Step size. Having decided on the length, calculate the dimensions of the steps. Their optimal height (H) is 16-20 cm, and width (L) is 27-30 cm. These parameters correspond to the physiological capabilities of a person making ascent and descent. The formula that the dimensions must meet is 2H + L = 60-64 cm.
  • Stair width. It provides convenient movement and also allows you to carry large items and furniture. It is not recommended to build ramps narrower than 0.9 m.
requires mandatory presence construction project, which begins to be drawn up only after the considered calculations.

2. Assembling formwork for concrete stairs

When the project is ready, the installation of the stairs begins; the technology involves the construction of high-quality formwork. It will serve as a kind of form for pouring concrete. For its production use:
  • Boards (usually 3 cm thick), covered with film, or waterproof plywood with a thickness of 18 mm or more.
  • Beam 100x100 mm.
  • Reinforcement and binding wire.
  • Self-tapping screws.

The base of the formwork is the so-called central shield, and the shields for the steps are already attached to it


Boards or plywood are knocked down using the staircase drawing from the project. To make the formwork as strong as possible, use supports at the bottom and sides. Next, it involves laying reinforcement inside the resulting frame. In those places where the railings will be installed, wooden plugs are secured.

3. Pouring concrete stairs

Having built reliable formwork, you can continue making stairs; the technology then requires pouring high-quality concrete. The grade should be no lower than B15, and in order to make it not too mobile (protection from leakage), crushed stone is added to the composition in fractions of 10-20 mm. Concreting begins from the lower steps, and one flight is completed at a time. To strengthen concrete, it is necessary to compact it, best with an electric construction vibrator. But this must be done carefully so as not to touch the reinforcement. To prevent excessively rapid drying, the poured solution is covered with plastic film. You can see the filling process in the video: The formwork is removed when the concrete has acquired at least 80% of its strength, i.e. no earlier than 3-4 weeks. With this staircase technology, it can be lined with any material. Moreover, the monolithic base ensures the absence of squeaking even with a wooden finish.

4. Finishing concrete stairs

When constructing a concrete staircase, a variety of design and finishing technologies can be used. The choice of option should depend not only on the preferences of the future owners, but also on the style and decor of the environment monolithic design. You can use:
  • Tree.
  • A natural stone.
  • Porcelain tiles.
  • Laminate.
  • Carpet.
  • Clinker tiles, etc.

The classic concrete entrance staircase is one of standard designs used almost everywhere. Thanks to the use standard materials and the reliability of the entire structure, do-it-yourself concrete stairs are often made in private homes. At the same time, its type and shape are often limited only by the availability of free time for the calculation and production of formwork. If it is possible to order work on the side, then only standard solutions there is more than enough in company catalogs.

What you need to know before installation - pros and cons

Before making a concrete staircase, you need to know its advantages and disadvantages - this will help you finally decide on the choice of shape and material.

Comparison of materials on video:

Advantages of concrete structures:

  • The strength of the structure will give odds to any others made of wood or metal. If you correctly reinforce a concrete staircase, then its safety factor allows you not to think about the load on the surface.
  • After complete drying, a rough concrete staircase can be used for moving or carrying building materials, and after all work is completed, the final finishing can be done.
  • Repair of a concrete structure will not be necessary during its entire service life. It requires minimal care, often cosmetic.
  • The monolithic reinforced concrete staircase is completely silent - it does not make creaks or other sounds.
  • Concrete is a moisture-resistant, fireproof and temperature-resistant material. Not susceptible to rotting or damage by insects.
  • There are very few restrictions on the shape of the structure and other design solutions.

Concrete structures have much fewer disadvantages, but they must also be taken into account:

  • Weight. Depending on the size, monolithic concrete stairs can weigh up to two or three tons - if the steps extend beyond the foundation of the house, then the possibility of their uneven shrinkage must be taken into account.
  • Labor intensity. Before you make a concrete staircase with your own hands, you need to create wooden formwork, which, in fact, is a rough wooden stairs– Concrete will then be poured into it.
  • Price. To pour concrete stairs, you need a frame pre-made from formwork, in which the reinforcement is laid and only then concreting is done. Therefore, the production of concrete stairs will cost more than any other analogues.

Types of staircase structures

The main division is into entrance (front) and high-rise. In the first case, they are used to simply get into the house, and high-rise ones are used for direct access to the second floor or to the cellar (basement). Each of them, in turn, has its own varieties and forms.

Even a standard concrete staircase in a private house can be anything geometric shape: usually rectangular, but there is no difficulty in creating rounded, polygonal or combined designs, the choice of which depends on general design the buildings.

Depending on the height to which you need to ascend or descend, the second type of staircases is divided into single-flight and rotary, with two or more landings. A separate category are rotary semicircular or screw varieties. If you are making a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands, then you must take into account the need for an exit platform. The only exception is if there is already a terrace on the top floor, to which the upper flight of stairs will be adjacent.

The staircase to the basement is made according to the same principle as to the second floor, but its manufacture is a little simpler - by making the steps to the basement with your own hands, you can install the formwork directly on the ground. Before this, it is recommended to thoroughly compact its surfaces and cover it with sand. If you have time, it is recommended to do this work in the fall and pour the concrete in the spring. If everything needs to be done at once, then Special attention must be given to compaction. The better it is done, the less likely it is that voids will occur due to soil subsidence.

Various types of structures in the following video:

Self-installation of concrete stairs

To take on the production of a concrete staircase, you need the skills of a carpenter, welder and mechanic, and in addition, know how to calculate the impact of massive structures on their support points. Even standard entrance concrete stairs without any special frills will be an additional load on the foundation, which must be taken into account if they are built separately.

The work order is as follows:

Calculation of a flight of stairs

The first step when calculating a staircase is not even calculating its dimensions, but assessing the place where it will stand. The weight of one cube of concrete is about 2.5 tons, so concrete stairs for a house, depending on the design, will weigh about 2-3 tons. If there is no load-bearing slab in the place where the lower steps will rest, then installation will be a big question. IN ideal, the staircase must be designed when drawing up the house plan and the foundation strip must pass through the place where it is installed.

You also need to think in advance about how the finishing will be done - if you choose decorative stone, then this solution will additionally make the entire structure heavier.

Next, you need to decide on the angle of elevation - comfortable movement is possible with a slope of 30-40°. In this case, the height of one step will be about 17 cm and the width 28-30. In rare cases, it is allowed to make steps at an angle of 45°. Considering the high cost of dismantling concrete structures, it is recommended in this case to find a staircase with such a slope in advance and evaluate for yourself whether it is worth walking on it from year to year or looking for an alternative.

In the case where a slope of 45° is still considered appropriate, it is worth adding so-called overhangs to the design of concrete steps for such stairs - they will increase their width.

If you plan to create a spiral concrete staircase, then the width of the step along the inner radius will be less than with outside. In this case, the calculation is carried out taking into account the fact that most often people will move along the steps a little further than their middle, closer to the outer radius.

It should also be taken into account that spiral staircases can often have a shifted center of gravity - this is especially true for half-turn structures. In such cases, it is advisable to “support” them against a load-bearing wall or column. To accurately calculate such structures, you must have knowledge in theoretical mechanics– if they are not there, then it is better to entrust the construction of such a massive structure to specialists.

Installation of formwork

This is the most critical stage, the quality of which determines the appearance of the finished product and the accuracy of concrete pouring. In fact, the formwork copies the structure of a concrete staircase, repeating its shape.

In private housing construction, a concrete staircase becomes the main type of access to front door at high base, on upper floors. Compliance with design and manufacturing requirements will ensure safety in use, strength and durability of the structure.

Monolithic concrete stairs have considerable weight. Floors and walls bear additional load on the staircase structural elements until the concrete polymerizes. As a result, the concrete staircase turns into one of the structural rigidity elements of the building. An ascent angle steeper than 45 0 is impractical. 30 0 is accepted as optimal. If the climb is too steep, it will be difficult, and the descent from the stairs will become dangerous.

Requirements for the size of steps and treads:

  • Depth – 27–30 cm;
  • Height – 15–20 cm;
  • Width – 1–1.2 m.

The staircase elements are monolithic with the floors and adjacent wall during the construction process. Release of reinforcement and embedded elements from floors and load-bearing wall planned at the project stage. Street stairs rest on the foundation with their lower part.

For a two-flight staircase, you will have to build an intermediate platform with stationary intermediate supports.

Monolithic connections will strengthen the structure of the house

Formwork assembly and reinforcement

The next step in construction is the construction of formwork. Concrete stairs need to create a strong frame for pouring. The base is made of moisture-resistant plywood with reinforcement at the bottom with boards to prevent the formwork from deflecting.

Vertical supports are installed with support on shoes to prevent shifting. The racks are made from boards 50–60 mm thick coniferous species. On the wall side, the base rests on metal brackets. The side board is attached to reinforced corners to provide rigidity to the structure.

Before pouring concrete, care should be taken to eliminate leaks of cement laitance and adhesion of the concrete mixture to the formwork. The joints and joint gaps are sealed with sealant. The surface of the formwork is treated with compounds that prevent sticking.

As one of the means, formwork coating is used plastic film with tension. This will lead to a reduction in the subsequent finishing of the stairs. Reducing the cost and reducing the amount of finishing work is laid down at the stage of preparatory work.

When pouring concrete, concrete stairs do not experience serious dynamic loads. Therefore, it is advisable to assemble the formwork using self-tapping screws. The screed will leave fewer gaps between the parts; after dismantling, the structural elements can be reused.

The basis for the strength of a concrete staircase is at least a double reinforcement mesh. Steel period and fiberglass ø 12–14 mm are used. Grid pitch 100–200 mm. The lattice is fastened with knitting wire or tightened with plastic clamps. Vertical bars at the edges will replace the upturned ends of the excess length crossbars. A distance between the gratings of 5–10 cm will provide sufficient bending resistance.

A clear example of reinforcement and hardening

Plastic supports under the lower part of the lattice hold the structure above the formwork. Holes are drilled in the wall into which crossbars are inserted to prevent displacement reinforced frame. The ends of the formwork reinforcement are not allowed to touch.

The reinforcement of each flight of stairs is carried out separately, but before pouring, the parts of the metal frame are tied together by overlapping and adding rods. The frame is connected with special care to the reinforcement outlets from the floor slabs.

Completes the assembly of the formwork monolithic staircase installation of level dividing risers that determine the depth of the step. Fastening to the wall and board is carried out reinforced corners or vertical bars.

We are waiting for concrete

Difficulties with concrete

We refuse to buy ready-made ones. We purchase granite crushed stone fractions 15–30 mm. If it is not planned to finish the staircase with other materials, marble chips are added. Coarse river sand is required. Quarry is not suitable - clay inclusions will reduce the strength. Cement grade 400 will do.

Mixing proportion:

  • Cement – ​​1;
  • Sand – 1.3;
  • Crushed stone – 2.6.

The monolithic staircase will be reinforced with polypropylene fiber in the concrete mixture. The fibers are evenly distributed in the solution. Concrete acquires remarkable qualities:

  • No shrinkage is felt;
  • Internal stresses are smoothed out;
  • Strengthening the product;

Adding plasticizers will speed up the setting of concrete. The concrete staircase formwork is filled from below in 2-3 steps with a gradual rise upward. Preliminary compaction of the mass is carried out by bayoneting.

Tamping does not give the same result that we can achieve using an electric vibrator. Vibration results in an even distribution of gravel filling. Air bubbles in the thickness of the concrete and shells in areas adjacent to the formwork will disappear. Manual seal will reduce the strength of the product by 10–12%

Vibration causes the mass to slide along the concrete stairs. The steps are filled without pouring cement laitance under the edge of the riser formwork. Filling the cavity signals the transition to the next level. Avoid underfilling the formwork.

Filling proceeds without stopping, regardless of the amount of work. A delay of 2 hours will lead to layering of the monolith. The planned strength is lost. The joint is comparable to a crack running the entire depth of the stairs. The embedded elements for fastening the balusters are installed into the filled steps according to the template.

After 1–1.5 hours, as the concrete sets, the steps of the stairs are smoothed with a float or trowel. It is recommended to trim the mass along the formwork and blunt the right angles to avoid chipping.

Bringing beauty

Decoration and finishing

The concrete staircase was built with our own hands. We waited until the ladder under the shelter gained the necessary strength. There is room for imagination. Ceramic tile, natural wood and imitations, carpet - available materials finishing is not with honor.

What if you surprise yourself and your family with the beauty of concrete? There will be more work, but the rough concrete staircase will turn into a work of art. Want to try? We'll have to go back to kneading and pouring. Adding pigments to a concrete mixer will turn the gray mass into a colored one.

Buying white or light cement will allow you to diversify your palette in addition to rich colors and pastel tones. The steps will turn from faceless attacks into decoration. But the work of polishing the steps of the concrete stairs will be added.

Imprinted into unhardened upper layer treads, fragments of multi-colored glass, flat stones, even shavings after metalworking with ordered pretentious ornaments or the chaos of inconsistency in the arrangement of waste decorative elements will hit.

Self-deception or desire for traditionalism?

Below is an example of how a staircase made of ordinary ready-mixed concrete without finishing already attracts attention. Enterprises willingly accept orders for the production of concrete products. You hand over a sketch on a piece of paper, and you get an improved version of the idea.

The developer's gain is obvious:

  • No cracks or internal stresses in the product after the steaming chamber;
  • Reduced labor intensity - installation and embedding take several hours;
  • Time saving - no need to wait for concrete to polymerize;
  • No chipping guarantee;
  • Does not require processing.

It is uneconomical to do this with your own hands.

Concrete stairs without wet processes

And this is possible. In a home where there is mostly wood around, moisture evaporation is the enemy. We order the frame modular or welded. And we cast the steps in a multi-seat mold ourselves in the garage or at the dacha.

The only peculiarity of such an amateur activity is that the front side will be at the bottom. Patterns and ornaments will appear upside down. But there will be no restrictions on imagination in any form.

The photo below shows a composition on a concrete surface made of broken bottle glass. The battle was poured into the mold, leveled and poured cement mixture. The fine chintz pattern is colorful and it wouldn’t hurt to dilute it with several solid bottle bottoms for a logical completion of the composition.

The industry cannot do this, only a craftsman

The thickness of homemade and purchased tread after processing does not exceed 50 mm. The weight is small, so the frame can be lightened. There is no need to prepare a powerful one. Installation does not require the use of lifting devices and powerful fasteners.

Lightweight format for lifting into the attic

Brief summary

Street and interfloor concrete stairs are similar in manufacturing technology. There would be a desire, free time and the necessary amount of money. Design features screw and curved were not considered due to the fact that each configuration needs to be devoted to a separate article, and not several general words.

Video

Stair frame

Concrete staircase (rough = two flights + platform) with formwork made from forest residues.

If your dream is a monolithic staircase, start work by developing a detailed drawing that will allow you to determine the number of steps, their width and height.

The following step sizes are considered optimal:

  • width – 25–30 centimeters,
  • height - 15–17 centimeters.

All steps must have the same dimensions.

If you decide to make a curved monolithic staircase, then in the narrowest part of the step its width should not be less than 12 centimeters (otherwise there will be a high probability of tripping, falling and getting injured during its operation).

When making a drawing, also pay attention to its width. A staircase already 80 centimeters long will be inconvenient both for climbing it and for carrying furniture or a stretcher with a person lying on it. The most convenient width is considered to be 1 meter.

Also, do not forget about intermediate platforms. It is advisable to do them every 12–15 steps so that the person climbing can rest a little. If the configuration of the opening does not allow making an intermediate platform where the stairs turn, you can create winder steps there.

Stair reinforcement

A do-it-yourself monolithic staircase must be made of high-strength concrete with mandatory mesh reinforcement of its lower part (on which all steps are located). For the mesh, you can take reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10–12 mm and arrange them in increments of 15 cm. The bars should be tied together with wire.

If the staircase is large in height and width, then it is better to lay the reinforcing mesh in two layers, between which leave a space of two centimeters in height.

The ends of the horizontal reinforcing bars should be driven into the wall.

Formwork

The lower (flat) part of the formwork should be made of thick, moisture-resistant laminated plywood, supported from below with boards five centimeters thick. The pitch of the supports usually corresponds to the size of the step. Boards should be laid between the plywood and the vertical supports to strengthen the entire structure.

On the side, the edge of the stairs is also limited by plywood, which will not allow the concrete to leave its intended place. The edging is additionally reinforced by longitudinally laid boards (with outside formwork), since the plywood itself cannot withstand the pressure of concrete without deformation (but it ultimately gives a flat surface on the side and bottom of the stairs).

Reinforcing mesh must be laid on top of the lower part of the plywood formwork, securing them in such a way that they are raised above the plywood by about 2 cm. Such a gap will create a protective layer of concrete above the reinforcement, which will prevent its damage and oxidation.

To create risers (vertical parts of the step), boards (5 cm thick) are also installed, which, using metal corners They are attached on one side to the wall, and on the other to the plywood flange.

The bottom step of the ladder should be secured by strengthening it with a horizontal stop made of boards.

Pouring concrete

Concrete for a monolithic staircase should be ordered from RBU (prepare this volume of concrete High Quality doing it yourself in a small concrete mixer is problematic, since by the time you make the next batch, the previously poured concrete will have already set).

Pouring concrete is done as follows:

  1. First, the two or three lower steps of the staircase are poured. Be sure to compact the poured concrete by piercing it with a piece of reinforcement to remove the air remaining in its thickness and fill all the space between the formwork and the reinforcing mesh. The concrete squeezed out during this procedure from the lower steps should be transferred to the upper steps.
  2. Having formed the lower steps, proceed to filling the steps above.
  3. Do not forget to level the surfaces of the steps as they are finally filled and the concrete sets.

Removing formwork

Removing formwork from a monolithic staircase should be done in several stages:

  • after about 5–7 days, the step formwork and flanging should be removed (then the steps should be sanded using a concrete sanding disc to give them a smooth, even surface);
  • after 14–21 days, you can remove the vertical supports and remove the lower plywood formwork.

If you plan to further rely on the newly created monolithic staircase to support the formwork above the floor, you will have to first wait for the concrete to gain full strength (this will happen no earlier than 28 days from the moment the stairs are poured). In this case, you should not rush, since it will be almost impossible to repair the damage caused by the excessive weight of the formwork and concrete.

Concrete stairs have long ceased to be used only in the construction of multi-storey panel or brick houses. Planning construction own home with two or more floors, many, even at the design stage, decide to build a strong and reliable concrete staircase indoors to move between different floors with their own hands.

This option for lifting to a height is very convenient to use, and when planning, you can take into account your own wishes. For example, design the height of the steps, depending on whether there are children or elderly people in the family, or set other desired parameters.

In this article you will learn how to pour concrete on a staircase.

Advantages and disadvantages of concrete stairs

If the main criterion when choosing a construction method flight of stairs is the durability and reliability of the entire structure, then the most likely solution would be to pour the stairs from durable concrete. Such structures have a number of undeniable advantages:

  • moisture resistance of the structure both inside and outside the house;
  • resistance to fire, especially if the decoration and finishing are also made of fire-resistant materials;
  • in terms of reliability and durability, they are comparable to the service life of the house itself;
  • silent, the steps of this design will not begin to creak, like wooden steps;
  • the possibility of a variety of designer finishes, decoration with wooden elements, marble;
  • There are many options for location, shapes and designs when making concrete stairs.

Concrete in the construction of private houses is several times superior to all other materials used for such purposes.

In this video you will learn how to pour formwork:

They are able to withstand huge loads and do not require special care or repairs during operation.

Of course, such connecting structures have some disadvantages. These include:

  • high labor costs during DIY construction;
  • relatively higher price than simple wooden structures;
  • significant weight of the concrete structure, requiring reliable foundations below and above, support on the floors, which makes it impossible to erect such a staircase in light frame and wooden houses;
  • the long period of construction of the staircase, due to the long hardening of the concrete;
  • the need for preliminary calculations and volumetric preparation for the pouring process, which involves the production of formwork for the steps.

Despite all the listed disadvantages, the popularity of monolithic concrete stairs in private housing construction does not decrease. Especially when building two- or three-story houses made of aerated silicate bricks.

Necessary calculations of material and dimensions of the structure

Before you begin calculating the parameters for the construction of a concrete staircase in a private house, you should determine its location. Since the concrete structure will be heavy, it must rest on concrete base, so there is a need to pre-fill the foundation for the stairs. It is better to immediately provide a place for constructing a staircase when designing the entire house before starting construction.

You can calculate other parameters of a concrete staircase and understand how to make it yourself. The height of the rise is already known and is equal to the height of the ceilings, so it is necessary to determine the length of the future staircase and its angle of inclination. The maximum permissible angle for constructing a safe structure is considered to be 45°, but for convenience it is better to take this figure around 26-33°.

Having determined the angle of inclination, it is easy to calculate the length of the staircase itself and its projection onto the floor. This can be done using a special calculator or independently, using the formula for calculating the hypotenuse of a right triangle, knowing the value of the angle of inclination and one of the legs (the height of the room).


Based on the obtained value, the length of the space under the stairs is calculated. If the room does not allow for such a long structure, it is worth considering an option that includes several flights of stairs.

It is more difficult to build a spiral concrete staircase to the second floor, especially with an offset center, so it is better to trust a specialist.

Moreover, for carrying out correct calculations Knowledge of theoretical mechanics will be required.

It should be placed in such a way that the height of the ceiling above the flight of stairs is approximately 2 meters or more. This will make climbing to the upper floors convenient even for tall people. The recommended width of the structure for a private house is from 80 to 100 cm.

At the next stage, the width and height of the steps are calculated. The steeper the rise of the flight of stairs, the higher and narrower they will be. For a staircase with a small angle of inclination, on the contrary, the steps can be wide and their height smaller. You can determine the optimal parameters using tables, a special calculator, or by calculating yourself using a formula showing the relationship between a person’s step length, the height and width of the steps.


You need to calculate the quantity correctly the required material

Knowing the height of one threshold, you can calculate their number based on the height of the stairs. And, accordingly, based on the data obtained, determine the width of the step. The main thing is that the parameters of the steps must meet the requirements for ease of movement along them as much as possible.

The obtained values ​​can be adjusted within 5 mm. If the width of the tread is too small and does not allow you to place your foot normally, then so-called overhangs are made.

An important value for a heavy concrete structure is the thickness of the supporting screed. Its width is determined based on the height and length of the flight of stairs.

Stages of creating a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands

When building a concrete staircase with your own hands, after preparation and calculations, you only have to complete several stages of its creation:

  • formwork for the concrete staircase is installed;
  • reinforcement is being installed;
  • risers are placed (partitions for forming steps);
  • pouring concrete;
  • stripping.

Preparatory work

Having decided on the dimensions of the staircase and calculated the main parameters, before starting to pour the concrete staircase, prepare all the necessary materials:

  • plywood with a thickness of 20 mm;
  • edged board – 30-35 mm;
  • reinforcement – ​​10-14 mm;
  • wire for tying reinforcement;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • metal corners;
  • concrete mixer;
  • cement, sand, crushed stone, plasticizer C-3.

Installation of the main formwork

How to make high-quality formwork for stairs? For correct installation formwork for the purpose of subsequent pouring of a monolithic concrete staircase, you should step by step follow all the recommendations specified in the instructions. If the staircase rests on one side of the wall, then before installing the formwork, you can mark the parameters of the future structure on the supporting wall. When designing several flights, it is worth making a groove (recess) in the wall of about 10 cm, on which the transition platform will then rest. The reliability and appearance of the future structure depends on the correct installation of formwork.


At the first stage, a board is installed perpendicular to the floor with a height equal to the height of one step and the planned floor screed. A flat, continuous moisture-resistant plywood with a length equal to the length of one flight rests on it, which will become the basis for concrete slab. Installation of plywood under the right angle performed using bars or special telescopic racks. The beams with parameters 100×100 mm will fully support the weight of the future structure. And to strengthen the formwork you can use metal corners.

The side parts of the formwork for the stairs are mounted to the plywood with self-tapping screws, and all wooden elements should fit tightly against each other so that the filling solution does not get into the existing cracks.

If non-moisture-resistant plywood and boards are used, they should be moistened with water or covered with film to prevent concrete from absorbing into the wooden structure.

Reinforcement

Reinforcing any concrete structure with reinforced concrete increases its strength. The first layer of reinforcement is laid at a distance of about 30 mm from the base of the formwork, and a mesh of rods with square cells 150-200 mm wide and long is constructed. You can place small steps or bricks under the structure. Longitudinal rods can be thicker than transverse ones, since they bear a greater load. Although most often they use reinforcement of the same diameter, for example, 14 mm.


It is recommended to connect the reinforcement together with a special wire; welding can weaken the entire structure. To strengthen the flight of stairs, you can lay out metal mesh in two layers. In this case, the second row needs to be placed 30-40 mm higher than the first, and it can be made from rods with a diameter of 6 mm with a cell width of 150 × 150 mm.

When laying down reinforcing mesh you need to ensure that its edges are at a distance of 20-50 mm from the side formwork. Thus, the rods will be protected by a thick layer of concrete from external influences, which can lead to corrosion and destruction of the reinforcement.

Completion of formwork installation, installation of partitions and risers

After laying the reinforcement, they begin to install risers, which will help to pour the concrete steps evenly and correctly. To do this, a rectangle is cut out of a sheet of plywood with a height equal to the height of the future steps or 10 mm more. All panels are cut the same, since all the steps on the stairs will also be the same size. Three parts are attached to the resulting rectangle - a support board and two side wooden parts.

The length of the support board will be exactly the same as the length of the plywood riser, and the side parts (lintels) with a board thickness of approximately 100-150 mm are needed in order to attach the resulting part to the sidewalls or wall of the finished formwork base.


Don't forget about the installation of formwork

Having made one riser, you should try it on at the installation site and, if necessary, make changes, and then complete the remaining parts for the formwork of exactly the same size. Attach the jumpers to the sides and wall using self-tapping screws or dowels. The installation of each panel should be accurately measured and adjusted so that all risers are positioned strictly perpendicular to the floor.

The risers should be installed strictly along the upper edge of the step, but they can be located slightly below the lower edge.

This is done in order to create a small barrier to concrete mortar, which will facilitate the filling process.

Pouring concrete

Having figured out how to make formwork for pouring a monolithic concrete staircase, you can begin preparing the concrete solution and pouring the frame. For construction durable structures choose concrete grade M250-300. And for the construction of a porch made of concrete, it is worth choosing frost- and moisture-resistant materials. The solution for pouring a flight of stairs is prepared as follows:

  • half of the water;
  • one part of cement M400;
  • two parts sand;
  • four parts of crushed stone;
  • superplasticizer S-3, 0.7% by weight of cement.


Pouring concrete begins with the first stage and gradually moves upward. Having filled the first two stages, it should be treated with a vibrator to remove the air inside the mixture. You can also lightly tap the formwork with a hammer, so concrete mixture It will settle and you can add another portion.

The surface is leveled with a trowel and wait 10-15 minutes, during which time the mixture will harden a little and the next two steps can be poured. If, during further pouring of concrete, the first steps begin to rise under the pressure of the upper ones, they need to be leveled by removing excess concrete.

After finishing the concrete pouring work finished staircase Cover with polyethylene to prevent rapid hardening. The slower the concrete mixture hardens, the better it will set and the stronger it will be in the end. During the first week, the polyethylene is removed several times a day, and the surface is sprayed with water to avoid cracking of the concrete.

The order and timing of stripping

In order for the concrete structure to set and reach its strength, it takes at least 3-4 weeks. Until the mortar has completely dried and the formwork has been removed, you should not walk along the flooded stairs; to do this, you need to provide other ways to move between floors. For example, using a simple wooden staircase.


A week after pouring, you can remove the formwork boards from the steps. This will allow you to evaluate the quality of the work done and, if necessary, fill the cracks again. After 2 weeks, the side boards are removed, and after another week and a half, you can remove the support in the form of beams and the lower part of the formwork. Now the ladder is completely ready to move along it.

Features of making a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands

When it is already clear how to make a concrete staircase for your own home with your own hands, you need to think over a work plan. Since all spans and flights should be poured at one time, it is worth purchasing or renting a suitable concrete mixer and taking care of attracting help.

The process of installing formwork is also very labor-intensive, therefore, by inviting a specialist with experience in this field, you can avoid many problems in the future. Having made a mistake on preparatory stage or during calculations, it is almost impossible to correct it later.


Deciding to build a reliable house concrete structure to climb to the upper floors, you can consider a lot of options possible finishing. And after removing the formwork, the staircase can immediately be used to move along it, even without finishing. Possible options construction makes the concrete structure suitable for houses small area, and in a huge cottage it can become a real decoration.

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