How to replace a slate roof with corrugated sheets yourself. How to cover an old roof with corrugated sheets How to lay corrugated sheets over slate correctly

Have you decided to replace your heavy slate roofing with a lighter, modern material? Don't rush to hire expensive professional roofers. In this article, RMNT will tell you how to do all the roofing work yourself.

Until recently, asbestos-cement slate sheets, invented back in 1901, were considered the main roofing material. Such an “eternal” roof met all the necessary qualities that were relevant at that time, but it also had one significant drawback - its impressive weight. Today, with the advent of new roofing materials on the market, slate is rapidly losing its position. The population massively covers their roofs with ondulin, corrugated sheets or. At the same time, hired construction teams, in order to increase the estimated cost of work, as well as make their lives easier, often convince the customer to carry out complete dismantling and make the roof from scratch. Others believe that it is enough to simply remove the old roofing material and you can safely lay a more modern one. The truth, as always, lies somewhere in the middle. Let's try to explain what you really need to do.

Dismantling works

In order to build something new, we must first remove all the old things that interfere with us. That is, to carry out dismantling work. And, of course, you need to start dismantling with... a weather forecast. Before you start roofing work, you should find out if the weather forecasters promise us long and lingering rains. After all, we are already covering a living space, with all the internal work, so getting precipitation inside is categorically undesirable.

Important! Even if the weather forecasters give the go-ahead, still stock up on film, tarpaulin or other waterproofing.

To dismantle we need a nail puller, wooden block, ropes and a pair of hooks the thickness of a slate nail, as well as two guide bars that will serve for the safe raising and lowering of roofing materials.

Dismantling should begin in the reverse order of installation, that is, first remove the ridge, then the top row of slate, and so on until the bare sheathing. We pull out the nails using a nail puller, placing a wooden block in the place where the latter stops. Asbestos-cement sheets should be lowered along wooden guides, having previously hooked them onto the holes made with nails with hooks. Simply lowering slate along a rope is unsafe.

Do not try to dismantle the slate from the entire roof at once, if the team is small and you do not have time to cover the roof in one day, replace it in stages, first repairing one slope, then the next.

Following the slate, we also dismantle the old sheathing, leaving only the bare rafter system on the plane.

Rafter system repair

Since the requirements for the plane of slate and corrugated board are different (installation of corrugated board requires a perfectly flat surface), we will build this plane.

First you need to pay attention to the condition of the outer rafters and the presence of a plane as a whole. To do this, we tighten the screws in all four corners of the rafter slope we are repairing so that all 4 caps are 3 cm short of the beam. We pull the lacing from corner to corner diagonally, as well as along the rafters. Thus checking whether the plane is even and whether there is a bump on the wooden structure. The threads stretched diagonally should barely touch each other at the intersection. If there is no plane, we build it by unscrewing (but not tightening) the necessary screws.

Now, using the outer rafters as beacons, we stretch the lacing between them in increments of 1.5-2 m and inspect the rest of the rafter system. If necessary, we level the rafters with an edged board, and in case of severe damage to the wood, we completely replace them. In any case, such work can be completed without much labor by 2 people who simply have the skills to handle construction tools, whereas making a new one rafter system We need the strength of an entire construction team with the participation of truly professionals in the roofing business.

Manufacturing of sheathing

The next step is laying the waterproofing membrane. It is laid horizontally on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom and rising to the ridge. The waterproofing should overlap so that water flows over it. We nail the film to the rafters using a stapler.

Important! Waterproofing should not be laid stretched; it should sag slightly, thereby increasing the size of the ventilated space.

In parallel with the hydraulic barrier, we install the sheathing. If this is not done, then problems will arise with how to get onto the plane of the rafter system without damaging the waterproofing membrane.

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of a support beam (50x40 mm), which is attached on top of the waterproofing film along the entire length of the rafters. For installation we use a 4.2x75 self-tapping screw. The installation step is 35-40 cm. It is not necessary to use a beam that is long over the entire rafter; blanks of 1-1.5 m are quite suitable.

For transverse sheathing, an edged “shalevka” is suitable - a board measuring 25x150 mm. We start installation from the eaves itself and ending with the ridge. The first and last boards should go along the very edges of the rafters, the rest should be located in increments of 450 mm, that is, a 30-centimeter template must be installed between the boards (the lathing is designed for C21 grade corrugated sheets, for other types of iron the lathing pitch will be different).

When the sheathing is finished, we move on to the second slope. We also carry out all the above operations there. The only difference is in the installation of the last ridge board. It should cover the corresponding board of the opposite slope; for this, the latter is planed using an electric planer. Both boards are protected with one piece of waterproofing membrane, secured with a stapler.

Lastly, we install the wind board. It is attached to the end of the sheathing and should protrude above it to the height of the corrugated sheet wave, maybe a couple of millimeters lower.

Installation of corrugated sheets

When the work with the wood is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of corrugated board. It would be good to purchase it in a size equal to the length of the slope. This is the distance from the ridge to the end of the rafter, plus another 5-8 cm.

The sheets are carefully removed from the stack and fed onto the roof along inclined guide bars; for convenience, in the part of the sheet that will be covered by the ridge, a couple of holes for hooks can be made in the outer wave.

Important! Sheets of corrugated sheets need to be removed from the stack, not pulled off. The polymer coating is very easy to scratch.

The first sheet is laid out very carefully. How the rest of the iron will be laid will depend on it. To do this, we screw flags to the outer rafters, small slats 20-30 cm in length, which are installed in the same plane with the rafter system and protrude 10-15 cm beyond its limits. At a distance of 5-8 centimeters from the cornice, a self-tapping screw is screwed strictly perpendicularly into such a strip so that its head is higher than the wave height of the corrugated sheet. Further between the two outer flags along the wave height metal sheet tighten the lacing. If it sags, the flags can be duplicated. Aligning with the thread, setting the iron is much easier.

Important! Any trimming of corrugated sheeting should be done from the ridge side; on the eaves side there should only be a factory cut.

The corrugated sheeting is mounted to the sheathing using screws with press washers at the rate of 6-8 pcs/m3. It is useful to calculate and mark the attachment points on the ground.

Important! We tighten the screws without fanaticism, the press washer should press the iron to the sheathing, but not be greatly deformed.

We install wind corners and a ridge. It is much easier to do this work right away than to later climb on slippery iron, with the risk of denting it or scratching it. To secure the ridge, long drills with a press washer are used, which can penetrate the thickness of the corrugated board and secure it in the tree. Installation is carried out through an external wave.

Important! All high-altitude work are carried out only with the use of insurance and when the master is in good health. Violation of these simple rules can lead to tragic consequences.

Video on the topic

IN last years For roofing work, along with expensive materials, profiled decking, or corrugated sheeting, is increasingly being used, which is not only attractive and reliable, but also allows you to cover the roof yourself, without having special knowledge and skills for this. Corrugated sheeting is available with polymer coating various colors, its cost is much lower than other analogues, which, however, does not affect the quality.

In our article we will tell you how to cover it using corrugated sheeting, taking into account all the features of this process.

Transportation of corrugated sheets

This roofing material, despite its strength and durability, requires proper and careful transportation. If the profiled sheet is loaded incorrectly, it will become deformed during transportation, and this will lead to an increase in the cost of work.

You can properly cover the roof using corrugated sheeting by taking material at least half a millimeter thick. This will allow you to save all the necessary performance characteristics, the roofing covering will reliably protect the house from precipitation, strong winds, and heat loss.

In order to organize the correct transportation of corrugated sheets, use these simple tips:

• The material should be loaded only on a solid and durable base; ordinary wooden logs, which will be longer than the sheets themselves, are excellent for this;
• During transportation, the cargo must be secured with slings to prevent friction of the sheets during transportation;
• The recommended speed of transport should be up to eighty kilometers per hour.

If the above conditions are met, the corrugated sheet will be delivered undamaged. Care should also be taken when unloading. It is advisable that the sheet be carried by two people; dragging or bending it is strictly prohibited.

When covering, it is important to lift it up correctly. It also has its own technology, which consists of the following:

• the material should not be lifted in windy weather to avoid damage;
• Logs are stretched from the roof to the ground, along which the sheets rise to the top. It is advisable that three people perform this work;
• lifting should be carried out exclusively on one sheet.

Materials and tools for laying corrugated sheets

Covering is quite simple; there is no need to purchase expensive tools or a lot of additional materials. We will only need metal scissors that are capable of cutting a sheet up to 0.6 millimeters thick; we will also need a hacksaw with fine teeth, jigsaw, you can also use electric scissors.

And here abrasive wheels and grinders are strictly prohibited; they can cause severe damage to the metal.

Features of laying corrugated sheeting on the roof

The corrugated sheeting technology has some features, which we will now list:

1. Roof rafters are covered waterproofing membrane and thermal insulators that prevent heat loss. This is especially true for residential attics, where such losses can be significant.
2. WITH inside At home, it is necessary to hem a layer of vapor barrier and tightly seal all its joints. In general, during such work, you need to make sure that there are no holes, gaps, or defects. If found, they should be carefully eliminated.
3. When covering with corrugated sheeting, it is very important to create a “cold triangle”, that is, to ensure the movement of cold and warm air flows.
4. When installing a roof, it is important to remember the need to create through slots for air to escape, which are made in the eaves.

Installed only on a layer of waterproofing. It is made from a wooden beam with dimensions of fifty by fifty or from a board 32x100; all wood must be treated with antiseptics.

Important! A counter-lattice made of timber is nailed to the rafters, on top of which the boards are laid. Where important nodes pass, that is, valleys, chimneys, fences, continuous sheathing should be done in increments of fifty centimeters.

Selecting the angle of inclination

To cover the roof with corrugated sheeting, you need to accurately determine the angle of inclination in advance; this determines what the overlap and fastening of the material will be like:

1. An overlap of two hundred millimeters is recommended at an angle of up to fourteen degrees.
2. If the angle is up to thirty degrees, then horizontal and vertical overlaps are recommended to be treated with waterproof silicone sealant. At angles of more than thirty degrees, overlap is preferable within one hundred and seventy degrees.

Scheme for selecting the angle of inclination for rafters.

The type of sheathing also depends on the angle and height of the corrugation:

• at angles up to fifteen degrees you can use C21 corrugated sheeting, the overlap will be in two waves, and the sheathing will be continuous;
• with the same angle and C35 corrugated sheet, the sheathing pitch is three hundred millimeters, the overlap is one corrugation;
• sometimes, with corrugated sheeting C44 or more, the sheathing pitch reaches five hundred millimeters. In general, in this case, the step can be up to 650 millimeters.

Roof covering

The process is quite easy, now we will talk about the main stages of this work.

First, you should purchase soft shoes to avoid damaging the corrugated sheets. You should try to step only on the deflections of the wave at the points of attachment to the sheathing. You will also need protective gloves for your hands to protect them from cuts during work.

After preparatory work We are starting to install the sheathing and heat and waterproofing of the roof. For this we use special self-tapping screws with rubber seals that will prevent damage to the material.

The chips formed when tightening the screws must be removed immediately - this will quickly begin to rust, and this will lead to damage to the flooring. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the wave only.

The norm when fastening corrugated sheets is to use six to eight fasteners per square meter of material. Follow the rules for installing profile sheets for roofing:

• when laying adjacent sheets, it is necessary to ensure that the fasteners for the joined elements (waves) are offset by five millimeters;
• fastening is carried out from the side of the wind strips into each individual batten;
• the fastening pitch should not be more than five hundred millimeters in order for the roof to be strong and reliable;
• the sheets must be attached to the upper and lower boards of the sheathing in each trapezoid (wave).

Nails cannot be used during installation, just like aluminum rivets; they cannot ensure the stability of the roof under strong wind loads. It is not recommended to use gas or electric welding when working with corrugated sheets.

When covering a roof with corrugated sheeting, you need to know some of the subtleties of the work. Laying should be carried out parallel to the cornice, with an overhang of approximately forty millimeters. In the case where the sheet is shorter than the slope, it can be laid in rows along the length of the roof.

Before laying, the roof sheathing is carefully treated using special means(to protect the wood from mold and insects), after this it is necessary to carry out work on hydro- and thermal insulation.

The sheets are laid here only overlapping; all remaining gaps are filled with bitumen sealants. When attaching to the sheathing, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws with rubber seals, and the pitch of the sheathing depends on the angle of the roof slope in the region of twenty to forty millimeters. As the angle increases, the distance between the individual slats should also increase.

An important condition is the presence of a ventilated space between the laid corrugated sheet and the waterproofing layer of the roof. In addition, experts recommend treating the sections with a primer after cutting the sheet.

That's all the secrets of installing corrugated sheets. Such work can be completed in a couple of days by two people who do not have special knowledge. Why don't you try it too!

Several decades ago, slate was considered the most popular and practical roofing material, and many private homes and industrial facilities still have such a roof.

Today, many people prefer to replace outdated material with more modern and convenient ones.

In this article we will talk about the features of roof replacement.

Replacing slate with profiled flooring

Invented at the beginning of the last century, asbestos-cement sheet was considered the most revolutionary and impeccable material for that time. The roofers were confident that by making a roof, they would provide reliable protection for the house for centuries.

With all their advantages, slate sheets had one, but very significant drawback.

The weight of such a roof was very significant and required the installation of beams and other load-bearing elements to be treated with special care. Massive logs and beams or metal bases were used.

Slate roofing

Today, the positions of yesterday's sales leader are being pushed back. Innovative, strong, durable and lightweight roofing materials have appeared.

We can say that andulin is more actively used by builders at present.

It is necessary to have a good understanding of roof installation technology in order to independently replace the outdated covering. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to involve proven, well-trained professionals who can give practical advice on installing and remodeling the roof.

Advantages of using corrugated sheets

• The most significant advantage for the owner is the low weight of the sheets, and therefore the minimum number of workers to carry out work to replace the old material with corrugated sheets.
• Another significant advantage is the high bending strength of the sheet, thanks to the stiffening ribs, which makes it possible to carry out installation with minimal effort to preserve the material during construction.
• The service life, subject to the installation technology of the roof structure, is almost unlimited.
• The affordable price allows people with average incomes to use it when repairing or building a roof.
• However, it should be noted that corrugated sheeting requires good quality, which is especially evident during precipitation in the form of rain or hail.

What to do with old slate

Help: In order to make the structure as light as possible and examine the system of rafters and beams, it is necessary to remove the obsolete roofing material.

Some owners believe that it is possible to cover old slate new material and thus make the roof more reliable, while it is assumed that savings can be made on sound insulation.

Important! This approach is fundamentally wrong. You load the structure with a weight that was not provided for in the design, and in winter, during heavy snowfalls, the roof may not be able to withstand the additional load. Need to remove the old one asbestos cement material and replace it with a new, more durable and convenient one.

Dismantling old material

The first step to begin removing outdated and worn-out slate is to carefully familiarize yourself with the nearest weather forecast. We need to make sure that there is no heavy rain in the coming days.

Important! Even after making sure that weather forecasters guarantee clear, dry weather in the coming weeks, stock up on film and, just in case, cover the attic with waterproof protection.

The main tools when replacing a roof are

• nail puller
• several strong hooks
• ropes
• wooden bars.

This simple set is needed for safe work when removing and lowering old roofing sheets slate. The order of work is the reverse of installation, that is, you need to start by dismantling the ridge and the top row of slate, gradually going down until the old covering is completely removed.

The sheathing should remain completely bare so that you can verify its integrity and, if necessary, replace failed segments of the structure.

Pulling out nails is carried out using a regular nail puller, under which, for convenience, a small wooden block or a piece of board is placed.

To lower the slate, you should insert special hooks into the holes left by the nails and place wooden beams for better sliding. You need to remember that shooting with ropes alone is much more dangerous.

Removing the entire mass of the old roof is not rational, because if you cannot immediately lay new material, then no matter what forecast the weather forecasters guarantee, there is always a chance of unexpected precipitation.

Help: Break down the upcoming work into stages.

Remove the slate from one slope and lay new corrugated sheeting. This will eliminate weather-related surprises.

Actions to repair rafters

To install profile sheets, you will need a flawless, flat surface, so special attention should be paid to the quality of old rafters.

It is necessary to check to what extent the design has retained its performance qualities: it meets the requirements for reliability and safety. Make sure that all beams do not have cracks and are not attacked by insect pests (bark beetles, longhorned beetles and lumberjacks, wood borers and house borers).

If necessary wooden structures must be replaced and treated with products to prevent the penetration of insects - pests, mold and fungi.

Checking for a level surface:

• screws are screwed into the corners of the disassembled slope so that the caps rise several centimeters above the rafters;
• pull the lace. You can use a level to check how smooth the surface of the future roof is, and whether there are any bumps or recesses in the plane of the slope;
• if the threads stretched diagonally barely touch each other, then the plane is perfectly flat, otherwise you need to unscrew the screws and bring the plane to the desired state;
• final leveling is carried out using an edged board attached to the beam with bolts.

After this, you can use the outer rafters as beacons and conduct an audit of the entire structure.

To level out defects, you can use an edged board, and elements that have become completely unusable must be replaced, not forgetting to pre-treat them with a special compound.

A couple of people with minimal experience in construction work can quickly handle the repair.

Conclusion: Independent inspection and repair of the rafter system will save significant funds on materials and payments, which are expected when completely replacing it important node roofs.

Installation of sheathing

Is waterproofing necessary when replacing a roof from slate to corrugated board?

The answer is obvious - it is necessary. For more details see

Laying it down. The membrane is attached horizontally in relation to the rafters. You need to start from the bottom and overlap the work to prevent leakage. The material is fastened using a construction stapler.

Help: There is no need to tighten the membrane too much, let it sag a little, this will ensure good ventilation under-roof space.

Installation is underway at the same time; if this is not done, it will be impossible to get onto the roof without damaging the waterproofing.

• The first step is to install timber to support the sheathing.
• The second step will be to attach the transverse boards; edged “shalevka” is well suited for these purposes.
• Work is carried out from the cornice to the ridge. The edge boards should go exactly along the edge of the rafters. Other boards are attached in increments of forty-five centimeters.
• The opposite slope is mounted in the same way, only the ridge board should overlap the opposite board, after which the ridge is covered along its entire length with waterproofing, tightly attached with a stapler.
• The final stage of installation of the sheathing will be the attachment of wind boards; they are attached to the end and should protrude slightly above the wave of the attached corrugated sheeting.

Installation of sheathing under corrugated sheets

The stages of work are no different from installing structures for other types of roofing materials.

The only difference will be the choice of brand and wave of profile sheets. The pitch of the sheathing boards depends on the brand of materials used.

Set of tools for laying corrugated sheets

To carry out quality work, you must have on hand:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Manual riveting set for processing joints. Only steel rivets can be used.
3. For cutting metal, scissors or a jigsaw with special files are suitable.
4. In addition, you will need a standard builder's kit - a ruler, meter, level, twine, hammer, and with special wide caps and a rubber seal.
5. To ensure good waterproofing, you need a special one, and in case of damage to the top layer protective coating aerosol with special paint.

Installation of corrugated sheets

The sheets are lifted along bars or boards; several holes for hooks can be made in the outer wave. You just need to make sure that they overlap later

Before covering the roof with corrugated sheeting, it is necessary to dismantle the previous covering. It is important to start doing this on days when rain is not expected. It is equally important to do this in virtually windless weather. But even if weather forecasts promise dry, windless weather, it’s better to stock up on film with which you can cover it just in case. attic space.

When removing slate covering you will need the following materials and tools:

• nail puller;
• several wooden blocks;
• ropes;
• a pair of strong hooks.

You will need all these materials to effectively and safely dismantle and lower the old roof covering. We carry out the work in the reverse order of installation, that is, dismantling the covering must begin from the ridge. Next, they begin to remove the top rows of slate. This is how all the rows are removed sequentially, reaching the eaves overhang. Roofing nails are removed with a nail puller, under which a wooden block or piece of board is placed for ease of work. When the sheathing is completely exposed, it is inspected and, if necessary, the exposed and rotten sections of the structure are replaced.

To lower slate from the roof with your own hands, use the holes in the material that are left after the roofing nails. Hooks are inserted into these holes, and wooden blocks are placed under them to facilitate sliding.

Attention! Lowering slate sheets on ropes alone without using hooks is much more dangerous.

It is better to replace slate with corrugated sheets not on the entire roof at once, but in separate sections. For example, you can first dismantle the slate from one slope and lay profiled flooring on it, and then carry out the work on the other slope. This way you will be insured against weather surprises.

Rafter system repair

If the roof is being replaced, then before doing so it is necessary to check the integrity and condition of the old rafter system. It is important that the rafter system meets the requirements of reliability and safety. It is necessary to inspect all rafter legs. They should not show signs of damage by insects, cracks or rotten areas.

If worn rafters are identified, they need to be replaced with new elements that have been treated antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants. Before replacing the slate with a new coating, you need to check the evenness of the slopes. To do this, do the following:

1. Screws are screwed into the corners of the slope so that their heads are a couple of centimeters higher than the rafters.
2. We stretch the cords diagonally across the slopes. You can also use a level to check the evenness of the surface and identify the presence of protrusions and recesses.
3. If at the point of intersection the cords barely touch each other, then the slopes are perfectly smooth.
4. Otherwise, you need to take measures to level the roof slopes. To do this, use an edged board, which is attached to the beam with bolts.
5. After leveling the outer rafters, they can be used as beacons and checked for the evenness of the rest of the rafter system.

Small unevenness in the roof can be leveled using edged boards. And those elements that are completely worn out are replaced with new ones, treated with special compounds. You can inspect and repair the roof truss system yourself if you have minimal experience in the field of construction and repair.

Installation of sheathing

It is necessary to completely dismantle the sheathing if the old waterproofing has become unusable. The waterproofing carpet is attached directly to the rafter system using a stapler. Strips of waterproofing material are rolled out and laid across the direction of the rafters and fastened with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Advice: to ensure good ventilation of the under-roof space, you need to lay the waterproofing carpet not stretched, but with a slight sag.

1. First, a counter batten is nailed to the rafters over the waterproofing. To do this, use a beam with a height of 30-40 mm. He will provide the necessary ventilation gap under the roof covering.
2. Next, the sheathing is filled across the counter-batten and the direction of the rafters. To do this, you can use a board that is attached in increments of 30-40 cm. Work begins from the eaves overhang, moving towards the ridge. It is better to perform a continuous sheathing above the ridge and along the edges of the eaves overhang.
3. The ridge part is covered with an additional layer of waterproofing.
4. After this, wind boards are installed.

Installation of profiled sheets

The roof is covered with corrugated sheets, lifting it along specially laid boards or bars. To make climbing easier, you can drill a couple of holes in the outer wave for the rope. It is important to choose a location for the holes that will then be covered by the wave of the top sheet.

Important: when transporting the corrugated sheet, try not to damage the polymer layer, as this will contribute to corrosion of the coating.

Installation is carried out in compliance with the following rules:

1. The sheets begin to be installed from the eaves overhang, having previously installed a drip line.
2. The next row of sheets should overlap the previous one by 20 cm with a roof slope of 15-45°. And with a slope of less than 15 degrees, an overlap of 30 cm is made. The overlap of adjacent sheets in a row is 1-2 waves.
3. To make it easier to fix the metal profile on the sheathing, you can mark the rows.
4. We fasten the corrugated sheet with self-tapping screws and a rubber sealing washer.
5. After installing the profiled sheets, a ridge element is attached to the slopes. To ensure ventilation of the under-roof space, a porous sealing tape is placed under the edges of the ridge trim element. It tightly fills the corrugated sheeting, protecting against debris and insects from entering the ventilation gap, but does not impede the passage of air.

Requirements for roofing

The vast majority of developers choose material according to certain criteria, namely price and durability. This is true to some extent, but it is far from effective. In order to choose the right roofing covering for a particular case, you must first study the requirements for such products.

• Moisture resistance. This indicator will indicate how the product copes with repelling moisture. Some materials do not have high values, so they are mainly used in arid regions.
• Durability. The longer the service life of the material, the better, this is understandable. But it is worth noting that this parameter is influenced by many factors, so it is better to look at the average value and rely on stability.
• Sustainability. This parameter shows how effectively the material copes with the negative impact of the environment on it. This refers to precipitation, wind and other external loads.
• Strength. A coating may have good rigidity, but at the same time have low strength. To use it effectively, you need to look for something in between these qualities.
• Tightness. Everyone knows that a lot of water gets on the roof. atmospheric precipitation. To prevent them from penetrating into the interior of the roofing pie, it is very important to create a sealed plane.

If you have access to regulatory documents, then you can find a more detailed list of requirements there, but this is quite enough to select high-quality roofing products.

Now, let's move on to the materials themselves.

Asbestos wave slate

If you are looking for something to cover the roof of your house inexpensively, then this product is just for you. However, it has some disadvantages, but let's talk about everything in order.

Asbestos slate is made from asbestos fibers and a binder mixture. The output is a high-quality product, with good rigidity, which is determined by waves. Their number can be from 6 to 8. Of course, you can find other types of slate, but they are unlikely to meet the requested requirements. In addition to all this, the canvas can have standard dimensions or reduced ones.

Not so long ago, the roofs of all private houses were covered with slate sheets, but what actually led this product to such high popularity? Let's look at the advantages of asbestos slate.

• Cheapness. This is the first thing developers look at when trying to find a cheaper way to cover a roof. The price for this material is really not high. The fact is that all components for its production are taken from natural resources Therefore, a lot of such material can be made.
• Strength. As already mentioned, due to the waves, the canvas is given optimal rigidity. In addition, asbestos sheet has good strength indicators, but is very fragile.
• Durability. A slate covering can lie on a roof for about 30-40 years without maintenance, and more than this period if the surface is periodically cleaned of build-up and the sheet is painted. The use of paint will not only protect the material from the harmful effects of the environment, but will also reduce the emission of asbestos dust.
• Resistant to sun rays and doesn't burn. Due to the inclusion of non-flammable components, the material is completely resistant to open fire and ultraviolet radiation.
• Good sound insulation performance. There are special strips on the surface of the sheet that reflect noise coming from outside and do not let it into the attic.

Reading the above points, you probably thought that this is an ideal material for roofing. This is true, but it depends on what kind of building it is used to cover. Numerous studies have shown that during the operation of asbestos slate, a certain amount of harmful substances are released that negatively affect the human body. Decide this problem can be painted surface. In addition, you can highlight the simple type of roof, and this often scares off many developers.

Ondulin

This material began to be produced in France in the 1945s, but it became widespread only a few decades later, since ordinary people after the war had no time to select roofing materials. In European countries, ondulin has taken root very well, and many developers abandoned slate and switched to it without hesitation. But the overwhelming majority of Russians confidently abandoned bitumen slate, citing the high cost of the product.

The material is made from natural cellulose mass, which is mixed with a bituminous substance and special thickeners are added to everything. The output is a wavy material with small dimensions and weight. Color is set by adding an admixture of pigments. In appearance, it vaguely resembles asbestos slate, which is why some roofers call this product Euroslate.

To date, ondulin has undergone a number of significant changes in composition and quality and is practically a new material, but in an old shell. The advantages include such properties as:

• Moisture resistance. Due to the high bitumen content in the product, this parameter is very high level. Moisture coming from above has no chance of getting into the roofing pie. Of course, if serious mistakes were made during installation, then water can still get inside.
• Ecological cleanliness. Since the sheet does not contain harmful toxins, Euroslate is safe for the environment.
• Small mass. Due to the use of natural cellulose, a thin sheet weighs almost nothing, so the canvas cannot create serious loads on the base, and this is an excellent reason for saving.
• Easy to install. Laying a rectangle that is small in size and weight is much easier than laying a heavy sheet of metal.
• The coating can be used as an additional coating. To do this, lay on the old coating wooden frame, essentially a crate. Euro slate sheets are mounted on it and the roof is ready.

Well, of course, you can’t ignore the minuses.

• Deformation of the canvas. If a discharged sheathing is used as a base, then after a few seasons you will notice some deformation of the sheets. There will be indentations in places where they are not supported by boards.
• Flammability. Due to the large amount of bitumen included in the material, it burns well. Due to this feature, this product is strictly prohibited from being used on public buildings and buildings.

• Low service life. If you purchase products from well-known and quality manufacturers, then the average duration of use of such a canvas will range from 15 to 25 years. As for fakes, the canvas will not last even 10 years.
• Loss of pigment saturation. Discoloration occurs after just a couple of years and this is naturally not good.
• Installation restrictions. To install such a roof, it is very important to choose optimal temperature. The fact is that in cold weather bitumen becomes brittle, and in extreme heat it practically flows. Optimal conditions for installation of ondulin it is 10-20 degrees above zero.

In general, the material is good, but it is highly undesirable to use it in regions with high rainfall.

Corrugated sheet

Today, profiled sheets can be compared in price to asbestos slate, so I put them in second place as the cheapest coatings. If you immediately rejected slate and are still looking for something to cover the roof of your house inexpensively, then corrugated sheeting is the best solution.

Profiled sheets are produced from rolled steel using high-quality European equipment. One sheet contains several layers. The price range of the product depends on their quantity. For example, if a sheet is covered with a protective layer and nothing else decorates it, then it will be as cheap as possible. And if polymer layers are added to it, then the price naturally increases.

It is worth noting that not all polymer layers can set good quality coverings. Some of them are low quality, they will peel off the metal after a couple of seasons. In addition, when installation work the likelihood of violating the integrity of this layer is significantly higher compared to using high-quality polymers. As you understand, the price for high-quality products is significantly higher, therefore, you will have to choose for what purpose to use this coating.

At first, profiled metal sheets were not very attractive to private developers due to their low quality. But over time, when production began to use new technologies, everything changed in better side. Today, this material can be confidently called universal. It is used not only in the roofing industry, but throughout the construction industry.

I won’t go far from the topic and will go directly to the advantages of profiled sheets.

• Strength. When a steel sheet is rolled, stripes remain on it; they are called waves. The higher the wave, the greater rigidity the sheet of metal will have. In addition to the wave height, it is important to pay attention to the thickness of the metal itself.
• Does not burn. As you know from the laws of physics: metal is not a flammable material, therefore, such a coating can be used as a roof on public buildings and structures.
• Relatively cheap. I already spoke about price jumps a little higher. Essentially, the fewer layers a sheet includes, the cheaper it costs. And of course, their quality also influences the price.
• Long-term operation. Although the metal itself cannot withstand prolonged exposure to moisture, additional layers protect it. First of all, adding zinc to the metal immediately reduces the likelihood of corrosion. As additional protection Polymer layers are applied to the metal.

• Light sheet weight. Roofing grades of corrugated sheets are very light in weight, so there is no need to create a reinforced rafter frame; you can get by with something simple.
• Long sheet length. Thanks to this fact, you can safely purchase a sheet of metal that will fit your slope. A minimum number of joints will ensure good roof tightness and, as a rule, long-term operation.

The metal roof itself is a good thing, but do not forget about the disadvantages.

• The roofing sheeting has smooth surface. Of course, this is not bad in a sense, because removing sediments in winter time years will happen naturally, but all this will be a disadvantage. If you live in snowy regions of the country, then you will have to install snow guards to prevent the snow from falling like an avalanche.
• High thermal conductivity. A thin sheet is not able to retain heat escaping from the roof space, therefore, a large amount of energy will have to be spent on heating the premises.
• Low sound insulation. Noise coming from outside will echo throughout the attic space. You will even hear the birds that land on the roof, not to mention the rain.

The last two drawbacks can be eliminated by laying thick insulation, but then the final cost of the entire roofing system will increase significantly.

Metal tiles

Metal tiles can be classified as already in the middle class of building materials. It looks good on absolutely any home. In addition, imitation of natural tiles allows residents to rise in the eyes of neighbors or guests.

This product is still produced from rolled steel, but using a different technology than corrugated sheeting. This sheet of metal has a more pleasant appearance, but otherwise I don’t see a difference. All the same protective components made of polymers and zinc. The only thing is that metal tiles can be made from non-ferrous metals, such as aluminum or copper. However, such enthusiasts are few.

I would like to note that today there is a lot of this coverage on construction markets. If you don’t know what to cover the roof of your house with, then choose metal tiles from the following options:

• Andalusia
• Shanghai
• Monterrey
• Cascade
• Valencia

All of the above types have good feedback from different classes of developers. But you shouldn’t blindly rely on advice; study the material yourself and only then decide whether to buy it or not. If you do not know what material to cover the roof of your house with, it is better to seek help from specialists. This product is very similar to corrugated sheeting, so I will not consider its positive and negative sides, if something is not clear, then see the previous paragraph.

Before considering the following coatings, I would like to tell you a little about condensing moisture, because this is the main enemy of metal roofs.

Condensation occurs due to excessive humidification of the air in a certain room. Since the rafter system is the skeleton of the entire roofing system, first of all we will protect it. The attic space must be well ventilated, otherwise all elements will rot and fail. The same applies to roofing pie. Here the materials will not rot, but will lose all their useful qualities.

In order for natural ventilation to cope with its responsibilities, it is necessary to calculate the vents and ensure unhindered air outlet. Vents should be located under eaves overhangs. Their height, as a rule, ranges from 5 to 8 centimeters. Having ensured the influx of air masses, you need to take care of the removal of humidified ones. For this, a perforated ridge is installed. It helps remove steam from inside the room and also blocks access to the attic space for various pests.

If you are considering this particular material as a covering, then keep in mind that it is better to cover the roof in warm and dry weather. Then the wood will not be able to become saturated with moisture and will remain dry for a long time. Otherwise, you will start using the roof immediately with a large amount of moisture, and this can seriously undermine the quality of the rafter system.

Many developers do not understand one detail. It seems like they have chosen the material, but they still don’t know what is best to cover the roof of the house with. There is only one answer - whichever suits you best. Rely on individual preferences and create the custom home of your dreams.

Bituminous shingles

It is cheaper to cover the roof of a house with bitumen shingles, but you should take care of creating a high-quality foundation.

As you understand, asphalt shingles are made mainly from the bitumen component. But it contains many impurities that protect the material from external influence. I would like to note the mineral coating, which does not allow the sun's rays to affect the bitumen parts of the material.

Varieties soft tiles quite a lot, but differing not in the composition of the product, but only in its appearance. For example, some manufacturers produce material in 1 meter lengths, while others have a maximum length of only 0.8 meters. Thanks to the pigments used, manufacturers achieve beautiful patterns on the surface of the shingles, which significantly increases the aesthetic properties of this product.

Advantages of bitumen shingles:

• The shingles are small in size and light in weight, so the installation process can be carried out by one person.
• The rough surface repels extraneous noise, therefore, if you are planning a residential attic, then there is no need for additional sound insulation.
• Due to the low density of the material, heat does not quickly escape through the roof.
• Bitumen products are not subject to rotting and corrosion, so they will last their stated life without any problems.
• The service life is about 30-50 years. Everything will depend on the quality of the material itself and its manufacturer.
• Wide range of colors.

To look at the full picture you need to look at both sides of the coin, so let's look at the disadvantages of soft shingles.

• Contains bitumen. From the previous paragraphs you already know how bitumen behaves in cold and heat, so you will have to carefully choose the moment to install such a roof.
• Roofing systems with a slope of 12-18 degrees should be equipped with an additional waterproofing sheet, especially in serious units such as valleys or eaves overhangs.

• It is unlikely that you will be able to move on the roof in the summer, as you will simply damage the roof.
• Due to the rough surface, quite a large amount of precipitation will accumulate on the roof and to remove it you will have to take up a shovel.
• Flammability. This has already been mentioned, so there is no need to repeat it.

As you can see, there is a lot to think about here. Many developers cover the roof of the house with other materials, but is it effective?

Other coatings

The only roofs that remain are standing seam roofing and tiles. I won’t talk too much about them since they are laid out extremely rarely.

Seam roofing is a roof made of ordinary straight sheets of steel. It is brought to the site in rolls, and only then rolled out and adjusted to size. In addition to steel, any other metal can be used that will not greatly burden the roofing system with its weight. The whole essence of this coating lies in its installation, or rather the creation of folds. Seams are the joints between strips of metal.

In appearance, such a roof is not very attractive, although in the first years it looks solid. The use of cheap metal destroys the entire canvas and over time it becomes corroded. And look at rusty metal, and even on your roof, an unpleasant thing, isn’t it?

Now let's move on to the shingles. If you decide to make such a purchase, but still want to save money, then it is better to cover the roof with cement rather than clay. There will be no differences in appearance, except perhaps in color. It is worth noting that to install these roofs you will have to assemble a serious rafter system, otherwise everything will simply collapse.

If we draw a conclusion based on everything described above, then it will not be possible to say for sure what is the best way to cover the roof in a private house. For some residents, asbestos slate will be quite enough, but for others, natural tiles will not be enough. However, if you do not strive for sophistication, then you can consider slate, corrugated board or ondulin. In other cases, purchase bitumen shingles or metal tiles.

Flat roof coverings

So, I told you about coverings for pitched roofs, and now let’s move on to flat ones.

Many developers, when constructing a building with a flat roof, immediately run to consult roofers or contact a design bureau. Almost all people ask the same question: “what material is better to cover the roof of a house?” Here the case is exactly the same as with pitched ones, fortunately there are fewer materials.

Bitumen roll materials

A prominent representative of rolled materials can be called roofing felt. To date, it has undergone major composition changes, which has led to an increase in its service life. Previously, the service life was about 5-7 years, but a modern product can last on the roof for more than 15.

Bitumen roll materials are laid using the fusing method. For this purpose it is used gas cylinder and a special burner. This work is unsafe, so if you plan to do it yourself and for the first time, it is better to invite an experienced partner.

The structure of the material is thin, so you have to lay it in several layers, ideally if their number is 3-4. All layers are laid perpendicular to each other in order to reduce the likelihood of moisture leaking into the seams. Upper layer roofing should be laid with a special roofing material with mineral dressing. It will protect the canvas from the harmful effects of UV rays and mechanical influences.

Bulk, mastic and sprayed materials

If the roofing surface is not in use, then self-leveling, mastic or sprayed products can be used as a coating.

These coatings provide the surface with 100% waterproofing and adhere well to the surface. When installing such materials, it is very important to make a high-quality slope, otherwise puddles will form on the roof, creating additional load on the underlying elements.

Mastic materials are applied using a roller or other hand tools. When laying such a roof, you can lay a reinforcing mesh so that the substance is distributed more evenly over the surface. The result is an effective, but far from attractive roofing surface, and even with a serious drawback: you cannot move on it. However, it is quite suitable for temporary structures.

Sprayed materials include coatings such as liquid rubber. Implement self-installation You are unlikely to be able to apply this substance to the surface of the roof, since it will require expensive equipment and the ability to distribute the amount of rubber over the plane.

Membranes

Membranes are still considered modern products, although they were invented quite a long time ago. These products are made on the basis of polymers that perfectly resist moisture and do not allow it to pass through their thickness. It is worth noting that using such a coating in small areas is not effective, so membranes have found great popularity in industrial construction.

Membrane roofing is divided into three types:

• TPO. The base consists of thermoplastic olefins with admixtures of antioxidants, plasticizers and synthetic rubber. The result is a strong and durable material with increased fire resistance.

• EPDM. Expensive coating with a reinforced body. This material justifies its cost due to its long service life.
• PVC. IN modern world Almost everything is made from polyvinyl chloride. This connection makes roofing material cheaper than similar analogues, which greatly attracts developers.

If you are trying to figure out what is the best way to cover a flat roof of a house, and to do it cheaper than others, then pay attention to roofing felt or mastic. Well, if aesthetics are important to you, then naturally choose polymers.

Safety precautions when removing slate from the roof

Dismantling the roof should be carried out observing certain safety measures:

Removing old slate from the roof

The easiest way is to remove the old slate covering with your own hands if the material is no longer suitable for further use. Traditionally, such a roof was installed using regular or rough nails, so the work requires only a nail puller, a hammer, a knife for cutting waterproofing, a ladder and a long ladder.

First of all, you need to get to the ridge of the roof and, using a nail puller, remove the fasteners that hold the ridge element from wooden planks or bars, roofing felt or sheet metal. This will free up the top of the top row of slate. Then the sheets of roofing material are removed, starting with the one that was last installed - it can be easily identified by the overlap with the adjacent element.

Since the integrity of the old slate does not need to be preserved, to free the sheet it is enough to hit the heads of the nails with a hammer, recessing them into the wood. Holes form at the fastening points and the entire sheet or parts can be thrown down. Next, the fasteners remaining in the sheathing are pulled out using a nail puller.

Dismantling slate without damaging the sheets

If the old sheet material is suitable for reuse, the roof should be disassembled with the utmost care. In this case, work also begins with the removal of the ridge element. Then the slate sheets are removed in the opposite order of laying the roofing. The principle is simple: carefully, without damaging the sheet, the fastening elements are removed, and the removed roofing element is carefully lowered to the ground.

You can remove the fasteners without any problems if the roof is mounted on self-tapping screws. They are unscrewed using a wrench (if the fastener has a hex head) or a screwdriver with a suitable attachment (for a straight or Phillips slot). But this option is only possible when disassembling sufficiently new roof.

Smooth nails are pulled out using a nail puller, under the heel of which it is necessary to place a board - this will prevent the sheet from splitting under a point load. If a nail goes right through the sheathing and its tip is bent, then you can remove it in two ways:

• remove layers of vapor barrier, insulation and waterproofing from the inside of the rafter system, bend the free part of the nail and tap it from bottom to top, then pull it out with a nail puller from the outside;
• bite off the nail head with a suitable tool (lever pliers, mini bolt cutter, etc.) or cut it off with a grinder.

Rough roofing nails (there are special corner notches on their body) are essentially permanent fasteners - they cannot be pulled out using a nail puller without breaking the nail itself or damaging the slate material and sheathing. Therefore, their caps are bitten off or cut off.

How not to damage slate when removing it to the ground

The easiest and fastest way to dismantle is with three people:

• one person stands on a ladder or on the sheathing of that part of the roof where the covering has already been removed and dismantles the fasteners;
• the second person sits on the skate or is nearby, holding the sheet, helping to tie it with a rope and remove it, carefully lower it to the ground;
• the third assistant is on the ground, he unties the rope from the removed sheet and takes it to the side, neatly folding it.

When working alone, it is more convenient to dismantle the roofing with your own hands from the outermost element of the bottom row. Having removed the fastenings from it, the sheet must be moved and tugged, releasing it. Be sure to immediately cut off the waterproofing material so that you can easily move along the sheathing, using it as a ladder.

It is not advisable to use a rope to lower sheets - it is difficult to handle a slate sheet weighing more than 20 kg alone. In addition, you will have to constantly go down the stairs to untie the rope.

In this case, you need to take two or three long boards and install them at an angle of about 40-60 degrees, resting one end on the ground and placing the other on the cornice. Along these parallel guides, the sheets can be easily lowered to the ground, “accumulating” three elements one after another - the slate sheets will rest against the end of each other. As a result, you will have to descend to the ground less often, which will save strength and reduce work time.

To prevent the slate from splitting, you should provide the sheets with a “soft landing” - place bags, rags or other soft material at the base of the descent!

When constructing a roof, they are used as roofing different materials: this includes slate, and tiles, and many others. But iron roofing remains the most popular. If you have the material, you can do the roofing work yourself.

Preparatory stage

Covering a roof with iron yourself begins with preparing sheet steel. When transporting, you need to be extremely careful to avoid scratches and chips.

1. The grease layer is removed from the metal sheet.
2. Drying oil, which is enriched with dyes, is applied on top.
3. After the drying oil has dried, you need to identify unpainted areas and paint over them.
4. Along the edge of the steel sheet, you need to bend a fold - a technological fastening element, which is also called a lock.

There are two types of folds: standing and lying. The sheets can be connected both longitudinally and transversely. And only in metal tiles are the sheets overlapped.

Making a fold

To make a fold yourself, you will need the following tools:

• calipers;
• comb bender;
• wooden mallet;
• metal scissors;
• a workbench with a steel angle, a metal hammer with a flat side;
• ruler.

With this set of tools you can make a rebated fold.

1. Place a sheet of iron on the edge of the workbench.
2. Mark the edge line, holding the sheet so that the line goes straight and does not move.
3. Using a mallet, bend the corners of the edge exactly along the line, you should get a beacon bend. It will allow further work to be done more accurately.
4. After the bend is made along the entire length of the edge, you need to turn over the sheet of iron and bend the edge to the end.
5. Process the other sheet in the same way, then it will be possible to connect them together.
6. The connection points must be secured with a hammer.
7. The longitudinal edge provides the necessary scar.

The standing seam is made using the same technology on the roof. To make a lock for ordinary sheets, you need to use a comb bender.

Roof covering technology

You can prepare iron sheets for roofing work in a workshop, but they need to be mounted on the roof itself. Before you start working at height, you need to make prefabricated elements from steel sheets directly on the site. This will make it easier to install later.

What to produce correct coverage roofs with iron, you must follow the instructions:

1. With the help of ready-made lying seams, the sheets of iron are connected to each other on one side. The prefabricated element must at a minimum consist of two sheets on the short side, and, at a maximum, the entire height of the roof slope.
2. Secure the bend between the sheets, observing one direction.
3. Check whether the sheets are positioned correctly relative to the vertical.
4. Use a steel strip and a hammer to strengthen the connections.
5. The bend over the ridge should be done so that the edge on one slope bends by 6 cm, and on the second by 3 cm.
6. You need to fix the iron by first fastening the bend at the ridge, and then fastening the entire strip.
7. The sheets are fixed with clamps, which are attached to the roof sheathing and beams.
8. If the sheets are profiled, then they need to be secured to the roof with special nails with rubber seals.

A roof made of materials with a polymer coating will not need to be covered with anything on top for all the years of operation. But ordinary steel will need to be primed and painted. This must be done immediately after completion of the roofing work. Paint steel sheets you need it twice. You can see what an iron roof covering looks like in the photo.

Every mistake made during roofing will inevitably make itself felt in the future.Samplelemscan beinsignificant, eliminatetheirNotwill belabor, but suchmeetsvery rarely. More oftenTotalariseaverage and sometimes criticaldamageroofing system.Developersmustunderstand, which is to preventerrorsgets lostmuchlesstime than forliquidationtheirconsequences. This is not to mention the material side of the matter. The cost of repairs in some cases may exceed the cost of building a new roof, and this does not take into account possibleeliminating internal damagepremises.

The quality, durability and reliability of a corrugated roof depends on several factors:

• accuracy of compliance with recommended technologies, building codes and rules. Only experienced roofers can make changes to generally accepted technologies and only to increase the stability of the rafter system;

  

• experience and responsibility of roofers. You can't take on complex work, if in practice even the most simple roofs A general recommendation is that inexperienced developers can only cover the roofs of their outbuildings and outbuildings with corrugated sheets. It’s better not to do residential work; this work should be done by professionals. There is no need to follow the example of the heroes of numerous videos that describe the successful first experience of roofing. None of them publish the results of their work after 3-5 years, and for the most part they are very sad;

  

• quality and completeness of roofing materials. Very important factor, requires a careful approach. The fact is that you can ruin the roof of the most expensive metal profile for the roof, but it can be done very high-quality coating from cheap profiled sheets for wall decoration. There are several construction secrets on how to save financial costs and at the same time increase the tightness and durability of the roof; we will talk about them a little below.

  

  Important factors are the quality and completeness of roofing materials

The coating technology must take into account the characteristics of the roof: the type of rafter system, the purpose of the building, the type of attic space.

Prices for corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheet

To make the right decision, you need to have objective information about profiled sheets and the impact of each characteristic on performance properties. All profiled sheets are conditionally divided into three large groups: for vertical structures(wall), universal (for walls and roofs) and roofing. This is a very conditional classification; if you have certain knowledge, then each type of corrugated sheet can be used for any of the above purposes.

Sheets option	Impact on performance
	The linear parameters of the sheets are regulated by the provisions of GOST 24045-94. For roofing sheets (N) and universal sheets (NS), the length is a multiple of 250 mm for 3–12 m. For wall (C) lengths are 2.4–12 m, a multiple of 300 mm. Width 800–900 mm. The longer the sheet, the less overlap, the more airtight the roof. But we must keep in mind that working with very long profiled sheets is quite difficult due to their large windage. In addition, there are risks of sharp bends and fractures, and in these places anti-corrosion coatings are damaged and oxidation processes are significantly accelerated. For the roof of a house, it is recommended to buy sheets no more than three meters long. Another advantage of long sheets is minimizing material loss by reducing the number of overlaps.
	The thickness of sheets for roofing (H) is 0.6–1.0 mm, for universal use (NS) 0.6–0.8 mm, and for walls (C) 0.6–0.7 mm. The physical parameters of bending resistance at the same thickness are adjusted due to various types profiles in height and width, the presence of additional elements of increase mechanical strength. note that standard thicknesses sheet metal cannot be less than 0.6 mm. In fact, modern manufacturers produce profiled sheets with a thickness of 0.45 mm. In order to avoid problems, they write out special technical conditions for their substandard products, approve them in higher organizations and sell non-standard products to consumers quite officially and legally.
	The profile height of roofing sheets is 57–114mm, universal 35–44mm and wall sheets 10–21mm. You can immediately see the difference between the requirements of the standard and the actual technical parameters of the profiled sheets. For some manufacturers, the profile height starts from a few millimeters. Why do manufacturers do this? The lower the profile height, the less the metal is deformed. This means that it is possible to degrade the quality of the metal (use cheap alloys), the thickness of galvanizing and paint coating. The small thickness of the metal and the height of the profile should be compensated by the rafter system - reduce the pitch of the slats or make it continuous. Experienced builders claim that such a roof will cost much less than buying thick profiled roofing sheets that are of very high quality in all respects.
	The highest quality sheets have modern aluminum-silicon anti-corrosion coatings; electrolytic zinc protection is allowed. The mass of zinc on both sides must be at least 414 g, aluminum zinc at least 170 g. with each on one square meter. Pay the most important attention to this parameter. The service life of the roof depends 80% on it.
	The type and thickness of the paint coating is regulated by the provisions of GOST 30246; in some cases, the parameters may change after agreement with consumers. The service life depends on the quality of the paint coating by approximately 15%. We do not recommend choosing matte and rough paints. The fact is that dust accumulates faster on such surfaces and is not completely washed away by rainwater. As a result, after a few years, mosses begin to grow on the roof, their roots penetrate into the thickness of the paint and destroy it. Water gets into the microcracks with all the negative consequences.

Unfortunately, theseimportantdata cannot be obtained frommarkingssheets.It indicates only the letter conditional classassignment identification (C, NS or N), profile height, usable width and thickness of the metal sheet.Eg,S15-800-0.6.Race informationis encrypted as follows- Withshadow sheet withprofile height 15mm, useful width 800mm and thicknessmetal 0.6mm.

Corrugated sheet S-15 roofing and wall (useful width 1120 mm)

The rest are very important technical specifications haveon certificates of conformity,Andx alwaysneed todemand fromseller.

An experienced roofer can roughly determine the thickness of the sheet by touch, sometimes micrometers are used for this.But this way you can find outbto the general meaningnno, but measure itseparately the thickness of the metal,tsinca coveringI can use a coat of paintonlyin specializedlaboratoriesIX.As we mentioned above, these are the parameters I provideTmain influence on qualitymaterialroofing, don’t be shy about asking for documents. If sellers for some reason do not show technical certificate sheets, tObetter byAndWithkick othersthe shops.

Preparatory activities

The roofing process will be quick and successful if you prepare for it in advance. What should be done for this?

1. Count the number of sheets. If the roof is an ordinary gable roof, then the calculation is simple. Find out the length and width of the slopes. The length needs to be increased by about 30 cm - the amount of overhang of the sheets. Calculate the roof area. Divide the resulting value by the effective width and length of the sheet; they are indicated in the designation of the material. A complex hip roof is divided into separate slopes, and the area of ​​each is calculated taking into account its geometry. Such roofs require an increased supply of sheets, in most cases it amounts to 10% of the total area. The more complex the roof, the greater the amount of waste.
   Important. If the roof area is calculated in meters, then the sheet area should be converted into the same units.

   

2. Find out the number of metal end (wind), cornice and ridge strips. You need to remember that each joint should overlap by about 10 cm and buy elements with a margin of length. For a complex roof, you need to have valley strips (internal and external).

   

3. If there are square or round chimneys on the roof, then you should buy special ones elements for sealing joints at junctions.

   

   Prices for roofing master flash

   Roofing master flash

4. Count the number of elements and decide on nomenclature of the drainage system. Some elements need to be fixed before installing the sheets; doing this after covering the roof is very difficult; in some cases, already fixed sheets will have to be dismantled. Any dismantling has negative consequences, you should remember this and plan your actions several steps ahead.

   

5. When settling in warm roof need to buy thermal insulation materials, steam and wind protection.

   

Of course, you need to prepare the tools and check their technical condition.

List of necessary tools and devices

For work you will need measuring instruments and accessories, metal scissors, screwdriver, hammer, marker, stapler. If you need to cut a large footage of sheets, then many roofers use grinders with metal discs.

Prices for popular models of angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders

You should not pay attention to warnings about the appearance of rust at the cut site, as written by incompetent “specialists” who have never done anything themselves. Why?

1. Firstly, the cut is never located in open space; it is always hidden under whole sheets or additional roofing elements. It is dry and oxidizes very slowly.
2. Secondly, working with an angle grinder is much faster and easier than using hand scissors. This is very important, especially if, due to the characteristics of the roof, you have to trim a lot of sheets.
3. Thirdly, cutting with scissors is very inconvenient - your hands and arms rest against the metal, it bends, and your fingers hurt. It is especially difficult to work across or at an angle to the waves of a metal profile.
4. Fourthly, the overlap of sections is at least 10 cm; even if it starts to rust, it will take several decades for such an area to deteriorate. This is much more than a coverage guarantee.
5. Fifthly, if concerns remain, the cut area can be covered with paint.

Step-by-step instructionpreparation for installationprofessional sheets

Let's consider the most difficult option for arranging a roof - warm.

If the width of the rafter legs is not sufficient for insulation, then slats must be nailed to the rafters in such a way that not only the insulation layer fits, but also there is at least 4-5 cm between it and the wind barrier for ventilation.

Otherwise, the natural processes of getting rid of excess moisture will be disrupted, the mineral wool will become damp and lose its original heat-saving properties. But this is not all the negative consequences. Wet wool has an extremely negative effect on all nearby wooden structures of the rafter system. If the lumber was not treated with antiseptics before the construction of the rafter system began, then this error must be corrected.

Practical advice. The quality of impregnation is much improved if color is added to the solution. It allows you to detect omissions and eliminate deficiencies.

First you should make an insulating cake; it consists of several layers.

Step 1. Nail the vapor barrier from the inside with a stapler, do not forget to overlap by about 10 cm. The joints must be glued double-sided tape. As a vapor barrier, you can use expensive modern materials or ordinary cheap plastic film. The physical effect is the same, and the money savings are tangible. The film has another advantage - big sizes. There are sleeves with a width of 3 m, if you cut them, it turns out to be 6 m. Such wide material speeds up the installation process and minimizes the number of joints. The fewer joints, the more effective protection mineral wool from steam.

Step 2. Nail horizontal slats to the rafters. They will hold mineral wool and provide natural ventilation between the roof and finishing attic walls.

Step 3. Lay mineral wool. You can use both rolled and pressed types. Each has its own styling features, but operational indicators it is not reflected.

Step 4. Nail on the windbreak. Can be found various names of this layer: hydroprotection, hydrovapor protection, membrane protection, etc. But correct name– wind protection.

It performs two tasks.

The first one prevents warm air from escaping from the wool, otherwise the effectiveness of roof insulation is sharply reduced. Mineral wool has many positive characteristics. There are, unfortunately, three negative ones. The first is the cost, there is nothing you can do about it. The second is airflow. Mineral wool easily allows air to pass through and almost does not interfere natural ventilation. And she carries away into the atmosphere warm air and serves fresh cold. The third is a negative reaction to increased relative humidity.

The second task of wind protection is to prevent an increase in the moisture content of the wool; with increasing humidity, the thermal conductivity increases sharply. A modern membrane is used that allows steam to pass through, but does not allow the wind to remove warm air and condensate to accumulate back into the mineral wool.

Advice! To make it easier to attach the boards, you should use a template - a piece of slats. The template is placed between two horizontal boards before fixing the top one

With this the insulation cake is complete, you can nail the gable boards and begin laying the roof.

Prices for windproof membranes

Hydro-windproof membrane

InWithTinstallation instructionsprofessional sheets

The main thing here is to lay the first row correctly. Subsequently, all sheets are aligned according to it. We have already said that the presence of markup greatly simplifies the process, so don’t be lazy to do it.

Step 1. Attach the gutter fixing brackets. Before this, you should install a metal strip and screw the brackets to it.

The ebb can be made from sheet steel. The steel strip is bent with hammer blows

Finished plank (low cast)

Fixed metal strip

The slope is about a centimeter per linear meter. It is not recommended to do more. Why? If you make a slope of 2 cm, then on a slope 10 m long the difference in height will be 20 cm. This is very bad - the gutter will be too low from the edge of the sheets, rainwater will flow past him. How to properly prepare the mount? Lay all the parts on a flat area, mark a difference of 10 cm between the first and last (for our example), draw an angle line through all the brackets.

Now all that remains is to carefully bend the metal strip along this line. To avoid mixing up the brackets during installation, number the elements.

Step 2. Screw it on cornice strips. These are not only decorative elements, they protect the under-roof space from slanting rain and snow. Do not forget to overlap approximately 10 cm.

Important. The minimum dimensions for overlaps must be strictly maintained, due to this the boards are protected from moisture. If the overlaps are insufficient, water will get into the gap and wet the board. And it takes a very long time to dry under the plank, which increases the risk of fungal diseases and rot.

Step 3. Lift the first sheet onto the sheathing and accurately install it according to the marks.

Practical advice. In order to facilitate the installation process of profiled sheets and make it safe, it is recommended to make a special ladder. It is fixed to the ridge with two legs and allows you to safely move along the slope to screw in self-tapping screws.

Place the self-tapping screw in the center so that the sheet can be rotated slightly. The position has been selected - add a few more screws, but do not forget to leave free space to overlap the waves of the profiled sheet. You can start installation from any side; alignment is done along the eaves. To ensure this, it is recommended to pull the thread along the line of the future installation of the gutter.

Step 4. Lift the second sheet of corrugated sheeting, put it in place and check the position. If everything is normal, then you can record both. Self-tapping screws should be screwed in in a checkerboard pattern at the rate of 10 pieces. per 1m2.

Important. It is recommended to start the second row with half a sheet, as a result of which the four corners will not converge at one point. This rule is mandatory for thick sheets; thin sheets do not need to be displaced. The decision is made by the foreman on the spot.

Self-tapping screws are screwed through the wave, if the thickness is approximately 0.8-1.0 m, then it is possible through two. But roofs are very rarely covered with such thick profiled sheets; they are too expensive. At the ridge and at the cornice, every deflection is recorded.

Practical advice. The work will be much easier if you fix the wind strips immediately after attaching the first row of sheets, and finish the ridge as the worker moves along the slope. Moving on already installed profiled sheets is difficult and unsafe. In addition, there is a high probability of mechanical damage.

Each chimney is finished, the sheets are cut. Special metal strips are used to seal joints and decorate.

All additional elements must be purchased simultaneously with the sheets and from the same manufacturer. This ensures that the ridge, windshield and eaves trims have the same appearance.

If everything is done slowly, responsibly and taking into account the recommendations, then a roof made of profiled sheets will serve for a long time and reliably.

Video - Installation of corrugated sheets