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How to install and repair a siphon under a sink

A siphon is a plumbing element that is installed under the sink or bathtub and connects them to the sewer pipe.

Its main purpose is to prevent sewer gases from entering the room. Thus, with its help, the air in the bathroom and kitchen is fresh. This part is made in the form of a curved pipe. Its fold retains water from the sink. Thus, a water seal is formed, which prevents the penetration of gases from the sewer into the room, trapping them in the pipe.

If the siphon is leaking, this indicates that it is not installed correctly or needs cleaning. Indeed, during operation, it accumulates fat and dirt, which must be periodically removed using special means or mechanically. To connect several items, use one element with many branches. This applies to cases where, for example, you need to connect a shower stall, sink and washing machine at the same time.
Types of siphons

An example diagram of cleaning a sink.

Today two siphon systems are known. This is a bottle and knee siphon. The first type is usually installed under the sink or sink in the bathroom. It looks like a flask. Its drain pipe is connected at one end to the sewer, and at the other end it is connected to the plumbing.
The knee element has a slightly different design. It is installed under the bathtub, urinals, shower stalls, and built into the toilet. Varieties of the knee siphon are revision siphon and corrugated siphon. The first model has a socket at the top, and the second model is a corrugated hose, which you need to bend yourself and fix the bend with a clamp. By the way, this model leaks very rarely, since it has a minimal number of connections.

To ensure that this plumbing element does not cause inconvenience during operation, it must be installed correctly and provided with proper care. Many people think that installing it is quite difficult. But that's not true. Having carefully studied general recommendations and armed with a tool, anyone can solve this problem home handyman. The easiest way is to install a bottle siphon under the sink.
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Siphon installation

Today, the siphon is usually made entirely of plastic, so you should not tighten the nuts with great force, otherwise you may simply strip the threads. Because of this, it will not be possible to completely seal the seam, and this will lead to the part starting to leak.

First of all, you need to install a drain grate in the sink. Next, you need to screw it from below and attach the siphon to the drain, properly tightening the locking nut.

If the kitchen sink has two compartments and two drain holes, then you need to install two siphons. If you plan to connect a washing machine or dishwasher, then you should purchase this part with required quantity branches in order to subsequently attach drainage hoses to them. While this hole will not be used, it must be plugged with a plug.

In order to install, you should purchase a model with an overflow. This is necessary in order not to “flood” the neighbors when the bathtub overflows. Before the connection point of this element To sewer pipe install a tee to which the overflow pipe is connected.

Currently, you can purchase a model equipped with an automatic drain. This is quite convenient, since the overflow grid and drain grid are connected via a cable, which opens the plug when the bath is overfilled. That is, the moment the water reaches the drain device, the hole will open automatically.

The siphon must also be connected to the sewer pipe. First, its outlet pipe must be unscrewed. Then it should be inserted into the sewer pipe and screwed back. Since the diameter dimensions of the pipe of this part and the sewer pipe do not match, it is necessary to use an o-ring, which is made of rubber or plastic. The thickness of the ring is approximately 15 mm. The outer diameter is 7 cm, and the inner diameter coincides with the diameter of the outlet pipe of the installed equipment.

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Checking the tightness of connections

As for sealing the seam between the siphon and the sewer pipe under the sink, a sealant is used for this. If we're talking about When sealing a seam for a toilet or urinal, cement mortar is used for this. When installing, you need to carefully ensure that the threads are not stripped and the gaskets are not damaged. In order to check how tight the connection is, turn on the water.

When performing sealing, professionals recommend additionally “winding up” the threads. This especially applies to those cases when it is observed loose fit. To do this, tow or special silicone tape is wound around the thread. In this case, the nut should fit tightly. Then the thread is coated with paste and the part is screwed on. At the end of the procedure, you should conduct a leak test by turning on the water for 2–3 minutes. If this part does not leak, the work is done efficiently.

Question: What tools are needed to repair a faucet?
Answer: The only tools you need are a plumbing (or regular adjustable) wrench that can be used to unscrew a faucet of any size. To avoid damaging the chrome finish of the faucet, wrap a piece of thick fabric around the twist-off unit. If the top of the faucet cannot be unscrewed, the following will help: wrap the faucet with a cloth and pour on top hot water. As a result of heating, the metal will expand slightly and the screw connection will yield to the connector. Sometimes it is enough to tighten the top of the faucet a little more tightly to separate both threads.

Question: How to fix a leaking faucet?
Answer: In this case, it is necessary to change the gaskets between the unscrewing top part of the faucet and the fixedly mounted body. First of all, you should turn off the water. To do this, turn both valves on the pipes supplying cold and hot water to the apartment (usually called risers) all the way. The riser can be located in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet. Stock up on time with a set of various gaskets and seals so that you can carry out repairs in one working step. Remove the old gasket, insert a new one and, if necessary, secure it with a nut.

Question: While replacing a leaking faucet, it was discovered that the screw securing the faucet handle was rusty. What is the reason?
Answer: Any steel screws installed in plumbing fixtures should be replaced with brass ones, even if they have an anti-corrosion coating. If there are no brass screws, unscrew the steel screw, lubricate with thick lubricant (grease, technical petroleum jelly, lard etc.) and wrap again.
If the rusty screw cannot be unscrewed, then the faucet handle (experts often call it a flywheel) will have to be sawed or broken. So it is better to avoid such situations.

Question: What is “pumping water” in faucets?
Answer: This is often called the phenomenon when, when you open the tap head, say for hot water, cold water comes out of the spout. The cause of the problem is a broken jumper in the middle of the mixer gasket. Another reason is the appearance of a through sink in the middle common wall of the mixer. The formation of such a shell is possible during operation, although poor quality faucet sometimes comes straight from the factory. That is why, when you open the tap head in the mixer above the bathtub, hot and cold water begin to get confused. Not only that, but the same will happen to our closest neighbors.
How to find the location of the breakdown? Turn off the hot water valve in your apartment and open the tap head cold water on your mixer. If after a long period of draining the water continues to flow hot or warm water, then the neighbors have a problem. To determine exactly which of the neighbors had a breakdown, you should repeat the experiment with them by closing one of the valves.

Question: How to eliminate a leak at the junction of sewer pipes?
Answer: If a leak occurs at the junction of the pipes, you need to cover the entire joint around the circumference over cement sealing with gum arabic ( liquid glass), better known in everyday life as office silicate glue. After this, the cracks in the cement will be guaranteed to be “patched.”

Question: How do you remove blockages in bathtub (sink) drains?
Answer: Here, as in medicine, it is easier to prevent a disease than to cure it. Prevention is necessary. First, you need to use additional grates for the drain holes of the sink and bathtub. Secondly, wash it with boiling water once or twice a month.
To clear the blockage, you can use a strong solution of soda or lye, special remedy"Mole". Scoop out from the bathtub (sink) standing water and pour one of these products for 1-1.5 hours, after which hot water is poured and pumped with a plunger.
You can also clean the drain by connecting a flexible hose to the blowout hole of the vacuum cleaner and pressing it firmly against the drain hole. For better sealing The hose is wrapped with a wet rag or a special rubber washer is made.
You can also clear a clogged drain using a stream of water supplied under pressure from the tap. To do this, put a rubber hose of a suitable length on the tap, and the joint between the hose and the drain hole is also tightly sealed (to increase the pressure).
If the problem cannot be resolved by any of the methods described above, remove the siphon, depending on where the blockage occurred, and clear the drain using a stiff wire or cable.

Question: How is a flush cistern built into the wall repaired?
Answer: There is no need to dismantle the wall. And not at all because these tanks do not break. Sooner or later you will have to repair them too. The point is different: inside such a tank is arranged differently. There are no rubber bulbs, no rusty wires, and there is a block inside the built-in tank - drain device. And nothing more. Accordingly, only this block can fail. It is easily and simply removed through the button hole of the built-in tank. Simply put, if something happens, you need to remove the button and pull out the block by hand through this hole. But, most importantly, after repair the part is simply lowered back down. No additional installation is required.

Question: Although there are no visible leaks, puddles of water often form on the floor under the flush tank. How to deal with this?
Answer: Uninsulated cisterns often become covered with water droplets due to the temperature difference between warm room air and cold air. tap water cooling the tank, promotes the formation of moisture on its surface. In other words, the tank “sweats.” But this does not indicate a malfunction of any component in the tank.
You need a tank with foam insulation. Or just periodically wipe the tank and floor.

Question: How to replace taffeta?
Answer: Taffeta is wooden plank on which the toilet is installed. Here are some tips for replacing taffeta. To make a new taffeta, measure the dimensions of the old one or determine these dimensions from the notch. Taffeta is made from well-dried durable wood. Anchors are installed at the bottom of the taffeta to ensure its secure fastening to the floor. The simplest anchors can be nails driven in in a checkerboard pattern and protruding from the taffeta by 20-30 mm. The hole in the floor is filled cement-sand mortar, in which taffeta with anchors is recessed, flush with the floor. After the solution has set, the toilet is fixed with screws, which must be lubricated with grease (or any other lubricant) so that they can be easily removed later. It is advisable not to put lateral loads on the toilet for a day or two.

Question: What should I do if water does not flow well from the sink and bathtub?
Answer: This usually occurs as a result of clogging of siphons or sewer outlet pipes with objects that do not dissolve in water (hair, pieces of fabric, etc.), as well as from the accumulation of a layer of dirt and grease on the walls of the outlet pipes. A small blockage can be cleared by using a plunger. To do this, it must be installed above the outlet so that the edges of the plunger bowl are tightly pressed to the surface of the sink (or bathtub). You need to pour water into the sink so that it covers the bowl of the plunger and then, with sharp pushes of the handle, bend the bowl several times, pressing it to the surface of the sink. If the clog is removed, water will drain from the sink to form a funnel above the outlet. If you perform a similar operation with a bathtub that has an overflow that protects it from overflowing, then when pumping with a plunger, the overflow hole should be closed by pressing a wet rag against it. If you cannot clear the drain, you need to open and rinse the siphon.

Question: How to clean the siphon?
Answer: To do this, you need to unscrew its bottom cover (sump) and use a long sliver of wood, wire or a screwdriver to clean the inside of the siphon. Before unscrewing the sump, it is recommended to place a basin or bucket under the siphon so as not to stain the floor of the bathroom or kitchen. After cleaning the siphon, screw the sump into place, first making sure that the rubber o-ring has not fallen out of it. Often, after such cleaning, the siphon begins to leak precisely at the place where the thread connecting the siphon body and the sump is located. The fact is that rubber sealing rings become deformed over time, so after disassembling the siphon you need to replace the old ring with a new one. It happens that replacing the o-ring will not help, then you can use sealant and cover the joint between the siphon and the sump. If you don’t have any sealant on hand, you can use plasticine for this purpose.

Question: How to fix a leak from under the sink?
Answer: If water is dripping from under the sink, something has happened to the rubber o-ring located between the surface of the sink and the outlet: it has either stretched, cracked, or moved out of place due to the fact that the union nut that secures the outlet to sink, poorly screwed. If water flows from under the bathtub, it means the same thing has happened, or the overflow tube has burst. In the latter case, a new overflow is installed in place of the broken one.

Question: What tools are needed to repair a faucet? Answer:

The only tools you need are a plumbing (or regular adjustable) wrench that can be used to unscrew a faucet of any size. To avoid damaging the chrome finish of the faucet, wrap a piece of thick fabric around the twist-off unit. If the top of the faucet cannot be unscrewed, the following will help: wrap the faucet with a cloth and pour hot water on top. As a result of heating, the metal will expand slightly and the screw connection will yield to the connector. Sometimes it is enough to tighten the top of the faucet a little more tightly to separate both threads.

Question: How to fix a leaking faucet? Answer:

In this case, it is necessary to change the gaskets between the unscrewing top part of the faucet and the fixedly mounted body. First of all, you should turn off the water. To do this, turn both valves on the pipes supplying cold and hot water to the apartment (usually called risers) all the way. The riser can be located in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet. Stock up on time with a set of various gaskets and seals so that you can carry out repairs in one working step.

Remove the old gasket, insert a new one and, if necessary, secure it with a nut.

Question: While replacing a leaking faucet, it was discovered that the screw securing the faucet handle was rusty. What is the reason? Answer:

Any steel screws installed in plumbing fixtures should be replaced with brass ones, even if they have an anti-corrosion coating. If there are no brass screws, unscrew the steel screw, lubricate it with thick lubricant (grease, petroleum jelly, lard, etc.) and tighten it again. If the rusty screw cannot be unscrewed, then the faucet handle (experts often call it a flywheel) will have to be sawed or broken. So it is better to avoid such situations.

Question: What is “pumping water” in faucets? Answer:

This is often called the phenomenon when, when you open the tap head, say for hot water, cold water comes out of the spout. The cause of the problem is a broken jumper in the middle of the mixer gasket. Another reason is the appearance of a through sink in the middle common wall of the mixer. The formation of such a sink is possible during operation, although a low-quality faucet sometimes comes straight from the factory. That is why, when you open the tap head in the mixer above the bathtub, hot and cold water begin to get confused. Not only that, but the same will happen to our closest neighbors. How to find the location of the breakdown? Turn off the hot water valve in your apartment and open the cold water tap on your faucet. If after a long period of draining the water, hot or warm water continues to flow, then the fault is with the neighbors. To determine exactly which of the neighbors had a breakdown, you should repeat the experiment with them by closing one of the valves.

Question: How to eliminate a leak at the junction of sewer pipes? Answer:

If a leak occurs at the junction of the pipes, you need to cover the entire joint around the circumference over cement sealing with gum arabic (liquid glass), better known in everyday life as office silicate glue. After this, the cracks in the cement will be guaranteed to be “patched.”

Question: How to remove blockages in bathtub (sink) drains? Answer:

Here, as in medicine, it is easier to prevent a disease than to cure it. Prevention is necessary. First, you need to use additional grates for the drain holes of the sink and bathtub. Secondly, wash it with boiling water once or twice a month. To clear the blockage, you can use a strong solution of soda or lye, a special “Mole” product. The standing water is scooped out of the bathtub (sink) and one of these products is poured in for 1-1.5 hours, after which hot water is poured in and pumped through with a plunger. You can also clean the drain by connecting a flexible hose to the blowout hole of the vacuum cleaner and pressing it firmly against the drain hole. For better sealing, wrap the hose with a wet rag or make a special rubber washer. You can also clear a clogged drain using a stream of water supplied under pressure from the tap. To do this, put a rubber hose of a suitable length on the tap, and the joint between the hose and the drain hole is also tightly sealed (to increase the pressure). If the problem cannot be resolved by any of the methods described above, remove the siphon, depending on where the blockage occurred, and clear the drain using a stiff wire or cable.

Question: How is a flush cistern built into the wall repaired? Answer:

There is no need to dismantle the wall. And not at all because these tanks do not break. Sooner or later you will have to repair them too. The point is different: inside such a tank is arranged differently. There are no rubber bulbs or rusty wires, and there is a block inside the built-in tank - a drainage device. And nothing more. Accordingly, only this block can fail. It is easily and simply removed through the button hole of the built-in tank. Simply put, if something happens, you need to remove the button and pull out the block by hand through this hole. But, most importantly, after repair the part is simply lowered back down. No additional installation is required.

Question: Although there are no visible leaks, puddles of water often form on the floor under the flush tank. How to deal with this? Answer:

Uninsulated cisterns often become covered with droplets of water, as the temperature difference between warm room air and cold tap water, which cools the tank, contributes to the formation of moisture on its surface. In other words, the tank “sweats.” But this does not indicate a malfunction of any component in the tank. You need a tank with foam insulation. Or just periodically wipe the tank and floor.

Question: How to replace taffeta? Answer:

Taffeta is a wooden board on which the toilet is installed. Here are some tips for replacing taffeta. To make a new taffeta, measure the dimensions of the old one or determine these dimensions from the notch. Taffeta is made from well-dried durable wood. Anchors are installed at the bottom of the taffeta to ensure its secure fastening to the floor. The simplest anchors can be nails driven in in a checkerboard pattern and protruding from the taffeta by 20-30 mm. The recess in the floor is filled with cement-sand mortar, in which taffeta with anchors is embedded flush with the floor. After the solution has set, the toilet is fixed with screws, which must be lubricated with grease (or any other lubricant) so that they can be easily removed later. It is advisable not to put lateral loads on the toilet for a day or two.

Question: What should I do if water does not flow well from the sink and bathtub? Answer:

This usually occurs as a result of clogging of siphons or sewer outlet pipes with objects that do not dissolve in water (hair, pieces of fabric, etc.), as well as from the accumulation of a layer of dirt and grease on the walls of the outlet pipes. A small blockage can be cleared by using a plunger. To do this, it must be installed above the outlet so that the edges of the plunger bowl are tightly pressed to the surface of the sink (or bathtub). You need to pour water into the sink so that it covers the bowl of the plunger and then, with sharp pushes of the handle, bend the bowl several times, pressing it to the surface of the sink. If the clog is removed, water will drain from the sink to form a funnel above the outlet.

If you perform a similar operation with a bathtub that has an overflow that protects it from overflowing, then when pumping with a plunger, the overflow hole should be closed by pressing a wet rag against it. If you cannot clear the drain, you need to open and rinse the siphon.

Question: How to clean the siphon? Answer:

To do this, you need to unscrew its bottom cover (sump) and use a long sliver of wood, wire or a screwdriver to clean the inside of the siphon.

How to fix a siphon leak

Before unscrewing the sump, it is recommended to place a basin or bucket under the siphon so as not to stain the floor of the bathroom or kitchen. After cleaning the siphon, screw the sump into place, first making sure that the rubber o-ring has not fallen out of it. Often, after such cleaning, the siphon begins to leak precisely at the place where the thread connecting the siphon body and the sump is located. The fact is that rubber sealing rings become deformed over time, so after disassembling the siphon you need to replace the old ring with a new one. It happens that replacing the o-ring will not help, then you can use sealant and cover the joint between the siphon and the sump. If you don’t have any sealant on hand, you can use plasticine for this purpose.

Question: How to fix a leak from under the sink? Answer:

If water is dripping from under the sink, something has happened to the rubber o-ring located between the surface of the sink and the outlet: it has either stretched, cracked, or moved out of place due to the fact that the union nut that secures the outlet to sink, poorly screwed. If water flows from under the bathtub, it means the same thing has happened, or the overflow tube has burst. In the latter case, a new overflow is installed in place of the broken one.

Water is leaking from under the sink.

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The problem seems trivial at first glance - puddles began to form in the kitchen under the sink. I discovered a leak from under the rubber gasket under the sink. I took it apart and it turned out that the nut that, together with the screw, secures the drain hole to the siphon had fallen apart. Just in case, I purchased a new gasket (although the old one shows no signs of physical wear), replaced the screw and nut, and reassembled it. The leak from under the gasket continues. I experimented with the old gasket, turned it over, installed two gaskets at once - the leak continued. I will be grateful for advice.

Is your siphon or drain accidentally clogged? There simply shouldn’t be any pressure there. Look for cracks in the siphon or plastic nuts. When I attach the siphon to the sink, I don’t rely too much on gaskets; I additionally use silicone sealant.

Pay attention to the intensity of the flow. If the pipes are just wet, it could be condensation, but if it’s really dripping, then it makes sense to disassemble the entire system again and reassemble it dry. Silicone sealant It will be very useful, there is a leak at the joints.

We had a similar story, but the water did not flow, and sometimes collected.

What to do if the siphon under the sink is leaking

I still couldn’t figure out where it was coming from and they installed a new mixer and the hoses held up well and were always dry. It turned out that in the sink the hole for the faucet was slightly larger than the faucet itself and the gap was small. When the dishes were washed, the splashes got into this gap and flowed under the sink.

Thanks for the advice, I did it. Now the problem is different - water is flowing from under the gander. The cartridge in the mixer was changed not long ago. And is that really the point? After I pulled out the cartridge, that’s it, nothing else can be understood in the mixer. Already knocked and wrench twisted it through a rag. I tried to disassemble the mixer from below, where the studs are - also a bummer. Maybe he doesn’t intend to look into it further? I watched a video on the Internet, and it talked about some kind of horseshoe-shaped rubber gaskets in the gander area. But maybe this is not my version of the mixer? Anyone who has encountered such a dilemma, please clarify.

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Well, even such a seemingly eternal element as a sink drain can also break and require replacement. But it would seem, after all, it’s an ordinary hole, why would it break?

But the passage of time is inexorable, and like any plumbing equipment, the drain is also vulnerable to breakdowns.

Varieties of plums

In general, there are Various types plum. One of the most common options in Europe and the USA is a drain, which is secured with a large lock nut. This is enough old method fastenings, so it is found in houses built more than 15 years ago.

This drain is secured with a fixing nut. Plumbing mastic is used as a sealant.

Sink.
Drain body.
Rubber gasket.
Metal washer.
Locking nut.
Adapter.
The nut that screws onto the drain body.
Shank.

Plastic drain pipes located under the sink. This design will last for many years and is not afraid of rust.

Pipes for draining two sinks, with connected cable for dishwasher. And again the kingdom of plastic.

Of course it is old version plum, but still quite popular. Another old option is a fixing pad, which is secured with a nut.

The old version of fastening the drain using a fixing plate and nuts. Requires the use of rubber gaskets and plumber's mastic where the drain borders the sink.

Sink.
Drain body.
Cover with plumber's mastic.
Rubber gasket.
Flat iron washer.
Protrusions.
Grooves in the overlay.
Mounting plate.
Screws.
To attach the mounting plate to the drain body, the grooves of the plate are put on the protrusions, after which the screws are tightened.
Adapter.
Screw.
Shank.

Modern drain options are a simple overhead cup with an extremely simple design.

Design of a modern sink drain. Plumbing mastic won't hurt either.

Drain body.
Plumbing mastic.
Sink.
Pad.
Cup overlay.
Locking nut.
Shank washer.
Shank.
Nut for attaching the shank to the drain body.

Connecting the sink drain pipes takes place in 4 simple steps.

Two sink drain options - with a lifting lid and a perforated surface.

Whatever drainage option you use, time inexorably leads to the fact that sooner or later the drain begins to leak.

The leak occurs where the drain is attached to the sink. Repairing a drain is quite simple.

Fixing a leak in the sink drain

It is not difficult to get rid of a leak, but the drain must first be removed.

First of all, unscrew the nut that secures the drain shank.

To remove the drain with the lining, simply unscrew the fixing nut using a pipe wrench or pliers.

Unscrew the nut that secures the shank.
Unscrew the drain cup lock nut.
Use a pipe wrench or pliers.
Washer.
Bottom of the sink.
Cup cover.
Unscrew the nut.
Shank nut.
Shank.
Unscrew or tighten the shank.

Pipe wrench - indispensable tool, allowing you to dismantle the sink drain.

Unscrew the nut securing the drain or the mounting screw. If the drain has a cup design, you cannot do without a pipe wrench or pliers. When the diameter of the nut is too large, you can turn it by placing a piece of wood or a chisel and gently hitting it with a hammer. Do not overdo it and remember that the nut is unscrewed counterclockwise.

This drain is secured with an extremely large nut. Often you can unscrew it only using a screwdriver (even better, a chisel) and a hammer. However, a pipe wrench should also work if you try hard enough.

Metal washer.
Rubber gasket.
Nut for fastening the drain.
Chisel or screwdriver.
To remove the nut, turn it counterclockwise.
Screw.
Unscrew the nut to secure the shank.
Shank.
P-shaped shutter.

Often the entire drain rotates along with the nut. It must be secured in place with wooden block, which can be inserted between the wall and the nut. Now follow these steps sequentially.

Once the nut or screw is unscrewed, everything else is simple. Remove the rubber gasket and metal washer.
Now we remove the drain itself from the sink.
Clean it thoroughly to remove mineral deposits and old mastic.
Apply a layer of fresh mastic to the area where the drain is installed. Now press the drain against it.
Reinstall the gasket and washer. Sometimes, if they are very worn out, it is better to replace them.
Tighten the fixing nut or mounting screw.
Clean any remaining mastic in the sink to keep the drain looking nice and tidy.

Before screwing the machine screw back in, be sure to use sealing tape to wrap it around the threads of the shank mount.

Done - now the drain will not leak.

Sink Drain Cover Repair

As a rule, the drain in our sinks is closed with a regular plastic stopper, which prevents any debris and food waste from entering the pipe.

However, in the USA and Europe there are often sinks where the drain is closed with a special lifting lid. It opens by pressing the lever located next to the faucet valves.

This is what the mechanism for lifting the sink drain cover looks like. The lid lift level can be adjusted within a fairly wide range.

To adjust, unscrew the screw and move the lever.
To adjust, squeeze the clamp and move the lever.
Sink.
Drain cover.
Hinge nut.
Articulated lever.
Lifting lever.
Adjustment screw.
Lift arm clamp.
Spring clamp.

An example of a typical sink drain, equipped with a lever that allows you to conveniently lift the lid.

The mechanism that lifts the lid is usually mounted behind the sink. The lifting lever is connected to the adjustment screw by means of a corresponding clamp. In this case, the lifting arm is controlled by a hinged arm via a spring. Pressing the hinged lever allows the drain cover to lift.

The lifting height can be controlled using an adjustment screw. If you loosen it, just move the clamp up or down and select the position of the cover that you need, after which the screw will lock.

Sometimes the lid is attached directly to the hinged arm, and sometimes it just sits on the drain.

Sink drain covers come in many different types.

Rotate and lift the cover to remove it.
Pull the hinge lever and lift the cover.
Lift the hinge arm and remove the cover.
Tilt and rotate when lifting.
Iron cover.
Pad.
Articulated lever.

If the cover is not fixed in any way, then it can be simply removed for cleaning.

Some lids have a special hook that connects it to the hinged arm. To remove such a cover, just twist it.

In other models, the lever passes directly through the cover itself, so it can only be removed by unscrewing the pivot arm retaining nut and pulling the lever out of the cover. When you tighten the nut back, do not forget to use sealing mastic or tape.

Adjusting the Sink Drain Cover

As we already described in the previous article, many sinks use special lift-up lids rather than regular plug-in lids.

Lifting such a cover is very simple - just press the lever located next to the mixer valves. The process of raising and lowering the lid is carried out through a spring mechanism hidden under the sink.

Chrome plated drain cover with lever for the sink.

The so-called plunger mechanisms have become widespread, when the lever rotates on a hinge and, thereby, moves the lifting lever up or down. At the end of this lifting arm is a weight that closes the drain.

Lever design of the drain cover.

Pad.
A cover located on the drain of an overflow pipe.
Tension spring.
The lid is closed.
The lid is open.
Overflow.
Pad.
Thread for changing the location of the lever.
Lifting lever.
First nut.
Bath wall.
Plastic element with nuts.
Second nut.
Overflow pipe.
Drain.
Plunger.
Plastic element with thread.
Drain hole.
Nuts.
A plunger seat that, when blocked, shuts off the water.
To the trap that is under the floor.

Part of the mechanism for lifting the drain cover located under the sink.

As a rule, the weight should completely cover the drain. However, if water still flows out, it means that the hole for the weight is very clogged. Cleaning it is not difficult at all.

Video on installing a faucet on a sink

Draining alone is not enough - of course, the sink requires a faucet, also known as a mixer. This video discusses in great detail the issue of installing a faucet in the kitchen with your own hands.

How to clean a drain hole

Both the hole itself and the weight blocking the drain are often cleaned.

Let's see how this can be done.

Remove all screws from the sink drain hole.
Remove the entire plunger mechanism from the pipe.
The weight should be properly cleaned by placing it in apple cider vinegar or regular vinegar for a while.
The drain itself is simply washed with water.
Now insert the plunger mechanism into place.
Secure the drain hole with screws.

Clean the lid lifting mechanism.

Unscrew the overflow cover from the bathtub.
Pull the lift lever and plunger out of the overflow pipe hole.
Threaded lift lever.
Plunger.

Often water leaks into the drain hole because the weight in the closed position does not reach the drain hole. This problem can be solved by lengthening the lift arm.

Replacing and repairing a siphon under the sink: 5 useful plumbing tips

There is no need to do any special chemicals, since the possibility of extending the lever is provided on the lever itself. Just unscrew the nuts and move plastic part lever to the desired position.

How to adjust the length of the lift lever in the mechanism for lifting the drain cover.

To decrease the length, move the nut up, move the plastic piece, and move the second nut up. To lengthen the lever, all the same steps are performed in reverse order.
The lift arm that leads to the pivot arm is threaded.
First nut.
Plastic element.
Lever to plunger.

There are, of course, lifting levers of other designs, however, the method of changing the length of the lever remains approximately the same.

Scheme of the lifting mechanism for draining

As for the lifting mechanism that is used to lift the drain cover, it is shown in the following drawing.

When you turn the handle, the spring is compressed, after which the drain hole opens. Otherwise, the spring is released and the lid opens, blocking the drain. The exact mechanism may vary, but general principle the operation of the mechanism remains unchanged.

A rotary handle is used to open or close the drain cover.
Turn the handle.
Back view.
Front view.
Pad.
Cover for overflow pipe.
Pen.
Earring.
Overflow pipe.
Spring.
Lifting lever.
Pipe wall.
Drain cover.
Sealing ring.
Flange.
Drain.
Rolling lever.
Nuts.
To the shutter, which is located under the floor.

Typically, the bottom of the lift arm is a spring. In this case, the handle with which the lid lock is controlled interacts with the lifting lever. At the end of this lever there is a spring, which is in contact with another swinging lever.

When you turn the handle, the lever presses on the spring, and the lid rises, opening the drain. As soon as you turn the handle in a different direction, the pressure is released from the spring, causing the lid to “automatically” close. The device, frankly speaking, is very primitive, but effective.

The lever mechanism can also be cleaned if desired. In addition, the sink drain cover is often equipped with sealing rubber, which wears out quickly and also requires replacement.

If you lift the lid, it is easy to pull the swing arm out. To put it back, you need to carefully turn the lever so that it fits into the horizontal plane of the drain pipe.

The lever is pulled up and to the side and inserted in the same way.
Lid.
Flange.
Drain.

To get the levers, you need to unscrew the mounting screws in in the right places. These levers are then easily removed, similar to how a plunger mechanism can be removed. To change the force with which the spring presses on the lever, it is enough to change the length of the lifting lever. To do this, you need to turn the nut that secures the spring. As a result, the lid will tightly close the drain hole and there will be no leaks for you.

Do not forget to clean all parts of the mechanism using a regular table or apple cider vinegar, which perfectly dissolves mineral deposits. All levers should move smoothly and without problems.

Drain cover with spring

Continuing the conversation about lifting lids for sink drains, let’s say a few words about such a variety as spring lids.

This cover works very simply and conveniently. To open it, just press the top. In this case, you will not need to use complex lever mechanisms, which are very difficult to repair.

The spring cap has a surprisingly simple design, without the need for levers or other mechanisms.

The lid is closed.
The lid is open.
Press to close the lid.
Washer gasket.
Round drain cover.
Spring mechanism.
Round plastic tube.
Press to open the cover.
Mechanism for lifting the lid.
Water flow.
Spring mechanism.
Round plastic tube.

Designer sink drain cover from BLANCO. A very simple and affordable solution if you are confused by the complex lid lifting mechanisms described in our article. But the good thing about choosing topics is that no one can impose someone else’s point of view on you. Choose what you like.

To install such a cover for a sink, just purchase it at any plumbing store. Everything comes with it necessary details, and this kind of cover can be installed in just a few minutes.

A siphon looks like a curved pipe that holds water from the sink in the bend. This water is precisely a water seal that prevents penetration unpleasant odors to residential premises. The siphon leaks for a variety of reasons. However, this phenomenon is unpleasant and requires urgent action. So, if there is a malfunction, then first of all it is highly advisable to turn off the taps responsible for supplying water to the apartment.

The most common causes of siphon leakage under the sink are improper installation of this equipment or failure to follow operating rules. For example, when owners neglect the need to clean a given plumbing element, this often leads to the siphon under the sink leaking.
With constant use of plumbing fixtures, dirt and grease accumulate in the siphons; from time to time they need to be cleaned using special products. Another cleaning option is to simply open the siphon and remove foreign contaminants. Sometimes one siphon can be connected for several items at the same time. For example, on washing machine, sink and shower. It is important to remember that in this case cleaning will be required more often than if only one plumbing element was connected.
Metal or plastic is most often used to make a siphon. However, today most manufacturers are ready to offer exclusively plastic siphons. This design consists of several parts connected union nuts, the joints are additionally sealed with rubber gaskets and cuffs. You can assemble a modern plastic siphon with your hands, without using any additional tools. But, unfortunately, plastic is not as strong as metal and therefore can leak even due to mechanical damage. All it takes for a leak to occur is a small chip or crack, especially if it occurs at the joints. Chips can be caused by an impact, a sudden movement, or strong loads on the part, for example, due to a poorly secured sink or due to leaning on it.
Another reason for a leak in a sink in a kitchen or bathroom is a factory defect. It sometimes occurs when purchasing a product on the market or simply from an unverified manufacturer. IN in this case cracks, chips or simply incorrectly selected parts may be present initially, which will ensure leakage during operation.
The most common reason why a siphon leaks is considered to be dried out gaskets. The fact is that the rubber used to connect parts can only be used for a certain period of time. After some time, due to exposure to water at different temperatures, it hardens, shrinks, changes shape, and as a result, cracks appear in the siphon.

Incorrect installation is one of the most common reasons siphon leaks

A damaged siphon can either be replaced or repaired. But replacement takes much longer and will require additional expenses from the owner. If you wish and have some knowledge, repairs can be done at home using available tools.

Features of diagnosing a faulty siphon

Most often, the cause of the leak is determined after disassembly. By the way, it is highly desirable to disassemble and assemble the siphon without the use of special tools. After disassembly, each part must be inspected and, if necessary, cleaned of dirt. It is better not to use wrenches when assembling and disassembling the siphon, even if we are talking about metal element, and even more so if it’s plastic. The plastic is quite fragile and a wrench can damage it.

Before disassembling a faulty siphon, it is recommended to take the following measures. Buy a special cleaning product drain pipes and pour the mixture into the drain, then after a while rinse with boiling water. This will slightly clear the siphon of contaminants and simplify the disassembly process in the future.

Before disassembling the siphon, it is advisable to take into account that liquid will drip or even flow from it, so you need to stock up on buckets and rags.
During disassembly, a plug that must match the diameter of the drain pipe where the siphon is attached will save you from the smell of sewer gases during disassembly. Most common standard diameter– 50 cm.
You will also need liquid soap, they will need to lubricate the rubber cuff to slightly extend its life.
The next step is to determine the location of the water leak. To do this, use a plunger to pump out all the available liquid from the drain, wipe it dry, and insert a sealed plug into the sink.
Next, collect several liters of water from the tap. Before draining the water under the sink, it is advisable to place a container or rag to collect the liquid so that the water does not leak onto the floor, this will help prevent a possible flood.
Then the plug is removed and the water flows out, while you need to look at the siphon and mark the place where the liquid is pouring from. Both a marker and a photo on your phone will do here.

If the siphon is leaking under the sink, don’t forget about a bucket and rags

After determining the location where the malfunction occurred, the water supply is shut off and the siphon can be removed. Plastic version It is better to disassemble only by hand, and when disassembling metal, you can use power tools. In a metal siphon, the nuts can stick tightly to the metal, so it is better to cut off their caps with a grinder so as not to damage the structure, and simply drill out the remaining fragments. When the drain is disassembled, it is advisable to wash every part of it in hot water with soap. No strangers chemical substances should not be used as there is a risk of damaging the equipment. The cleaned parts are wiped and dried, and then repairs can begin.

Methods for eliminating leaks

As a rule, repairing a siphon is not a difficult task. And the materials necessary for this can be found in the pantry of almost any home. Below are some recommendations on what to do if the siphon is leaking.

Required Tools

Plastic siphons can be disassembled by hand, so no special tools are needed. Although in some cases a screwdriver, a cable for cleaning drain pipes may still be useful (a metal brush with a long handle or even an ordinary wire brush will also work), and it is advisable to stock up on a rag and a container for water. To restore the tightness of spare parts and their joints, silicone glue or sealant, a “liquid nails” type composition, and sometimes even a regular medical bandage are useful.

A siphon leak can be eliminated using “ liquid nails”

If you have to disassemble a metal siphon, especially one that has already been in use for a long time, then you may need tools such as a grinder and a drill. With their power, it will be possible to disassemble the siphon by sawing off the caps of the bolts, and then drilling out what is left. In order not to damage the metal siphon during disassembly, it is recommended to use power tools.

Restoring the tightness of gaskets

Abrasion or other changes in the condition of the gaskets can cause the siphon to begin to leak. Rubber parts that have hardened during use are best replaced. Usually they are available in any specialty store. To ensure that purchased parts last longer, they are lubricated. liquid soap or Vaseline, which makes the installation process easier.

However, there is not always the desire or opportunity to purchase new gaskets. In this case, you can try to restore the old ones. To restore them, they must be lubricated with silicone glue, sealant, or a compound called liquid nails, and then put in place. When the applied composition dries, the plumbing fixtures can be used. This measure will extend the life of the rubber gaskets for several more years.

Repairing cracks

If the pipe is cracked at the seam, then repairing it is quite simple. First, the place of the split is cleaned sandpaper, and then lubricated with pre-diluted epoxy glue. If desired, dyes can be added to the composition used.

When the surface is lubricated, it is wrapped with a medical bandage. This event is performed two or three times. This creates several layers of epoxy glue and bandages on the pipe. The drying time for this design is about six hours. After drying, the siphon can be put back in place and the plumbing can be used. A pipe reinforced in this way becomes much stronger than the one originally purchased.

Sealing connections

Sealing of connections may be necessary due to manufacturing defects or during operation. Sometimes it becomes necessary to additionally seal the joints of the siphon parts. For example, a worn thread prevents the rubber gasket from being pressed tightly against the hole. In this case, tow or silicone tape is used for compaction. It is important to remove excess sealant after securing the nut. In some cases, if the thread is seriously damaged, you can apply cold welding, however, this will extend the service life for only a short time, since the fragile plastic will soon continue to crumble. In this case, it is better to take care of purchasing a new siphon.

Recommendations for the operation and prevention of siphon leaks

The siphon, like many other household items, needs maintenance. It must be disassembled and cleaned at least once a year. At the same time as cleaning, it is recommended to check the parts for scuffs and other damage. Also at this moment it is worth changing the gaskets or lubricating the old ones with sealant.

It is very important to assemble the siphon without allowing bevels, both during initial installation and after disassembly for cleaning. If you plan not to use plumbing in the house for a long time, then add any vegetable oil. This will protect the rubber parts from drying out, and will serve as an additional barrier against unpleasant odors in the home when all the water has evaporated.

It is important to remember that to prevent contamination of the siphon, you should not pour food waste, tea leaves, or even just dirty water into the sink, as the water will go away, and all other impurities will remain on the walls of the structure and, at best, will lead to the need for quick cleaning. Before you pour anything with foreign particles into the sink (everything except water, including even ordinary soup), you need to install a special strainer that will protect the siphon from waste. The stuck particles are removed from the strainer and thrown into the trash.

By the way, when pouring out a fatty liquid, it is worth considering that fat can also settle and accumulate on the walls of the siphon. This can be partly saved by special chemical mixtures for cleaning drain pipes. They, of course, will not replace a full cleaning procedure, but they will allow you to perform it a little less often. The main thing when using such household chemicals Read carefully and follow the instructions on the package, otherwise the procedure may not have any effect.

Forum / Plumbing / Water flows from under the sink.

Find out details

BobaJune 14, 2015
at 0:21 The problem seems trivial at first glance - puddles began to form in the kitchen under the sink. I discovered a leak from under the rubber gasket under the sink. I took it apart and it turned out that the nut that, together with the screw, secures the drain hole to the siphon had fallen apart. Just in case, I purchased a new gasket (although the old one shows no signs of physical wear), replaced the screw and nut, and reassembled it. The leak from under the gasket continues. I experimented with the old gasket, turned it over, installed two gaskets at once - the leak continued. I will be grateful for advice.
Seryozha

June 14, 2015
at 5:59 Is your siphon or drain clogged by any chance? There simply shouldn’t be any pressure there. Look for cracks in the siphon or plastic nuts. When I attach the siphon to the sink, I don’t rely too much on gaskets; I additionally use silicone sealant.
zarabbo

June 14, 2015
at 7:04 Pay attention to the intensity of the flow. If the pipes are just wet, it could be condensation, but if it’s really dripping, then it makes sense to disassemble the entire system again and reassemble it dry. Silicone sealant will be very useful, there are leaks at the joints.
serge

June 14, 2015
at 9:04 We had a similar story, but the water did not flow, and sometimes collected. I still couldn’t figure out where it was coming from and they installed a new mixer and the hoses held up well and were always dry. It turned out that in the sink the hole for the faucet was slightly larger than the faucet itself and the gap was small. When the dishes were washed, the splashes got into this gap and flowed under the sink.
BobaJune 18, 2015
at 23:57 Thanks for the advice, I managed it. Now the problem is different - water is flowing from under the gander. The cartridge in the mixer was changed not long ago.

Error 404

And is that really the point? After I pulled out the cartridge, that’s it, nothing else can be understood in the mixer. He already knocked and twisted it with an adjustable wrench through a rag. I tried to disassemble the mixer from below, where the studs are - also a bummer. Maybe he doesn’t intend to look into it further? I watched a video on the Internet, and it talked about some kind of horseshoe-shaped rubber gaskets in the gander area. But maybe this is not my version of the mixer? Anyone who has encountered such a dilemma, please clarify.

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What to do if the siphon under the sink is leaking

Installing a siphon in a sink with your own hands - instructions for installing and connecting the siphon

It would seem that a sink siphon is a very simple plumbing element, and installing a siphon in a sink is a very simple operation. However, as practice shows, many problems often arise with the siphon. In most cases, these problems are caused by improper assembly of the siphon and incorrect installation. This article will describe the installation procedure and highlight the main points due to which the siphon may not work properly or leak.

The siphon consists of three main elements: the part that is attached to the sink, the siphon itself and a tube for connecting to the sewer.

Fig.1. Siphon disassembled

The first place to start installing the siphon is from the part that is attached to the sink.

Fig.2. Drainer

To do this, take the cover, insert a screw into it and place it in the drain hole on the sink.

Fig.3. Drain hole view from below

Then we screw the mating part onto this screw.

Fig.4. Attaching the siphon to the sink

Here you should pay attention that the mating part is equipped with a special gasket. If the gasket is not installed evenly, this joint will leak. To eliminate these problems, you should proceed as follows.

Screw the mating part onto the screw by hand, while ensuring that the gasket lies in its place and does not move. After the connection is assembled, it is necessary to tighten it. This should be done using a screwdriver, i.e. You need to turn the screw, but the mating part must remain motionless. Otherwise, the gasket may move and the seal of the connection will be compromised.

Fig.5. Siphon assembly, first stage

This pipe also has a gasket, which you should not forget about, otherwise the connection will leak.

After this, it is necessary to install a connection pipe with the sewer. Depending on the diameter of the sewer pipes and the diameter of the pipe, various rubber spacers can be used, the purchase of which must be taken care of when purchasing a siphon.

Fig.6. Rubber insert in the sewer

The spacer is installed in the sewer pipe instead of the existing O-ring. Those. The sealing ring must be removed from the sewer pipe and a spacer installed in its place.

The last stage of installing the siphon is connecting the siphon to the sink and to the sewer pipe. Cone-shaped gaskets are used at these connection points.

Fig.7. Connecting a siphon to the sewer

To prevent the connection from leaking, it is advisable to proceed as follows. It is necessary to put the clamping nut on the pipe, then the gasket with the narrow end towards the siphon. Next, install the pipe into the siphon cavity and tighten the nut.

If you simply insert the pipe into the siphon and tighten the nut, then the likelihood that the gasket will move is very high and the connection will not be airtight.

The last thing you should pay attention to when installing a siphon in a sink is the position of the siphon relative to the sink, i.e. How far does the pipe attached to the sink fit into the siphon?

Fig.8. Siphon assembly and installation

This pipe should enter into the siphon no more than 5 cm. If the pipe goes in more or the entire length, it will block the flow section of the siphon. As a result, the siphon will quickly become clogged, and water will not drain well from the sink.

How to fix a siphon leak?

The siphon is leaking under the kitchen sink - what to do?

Where to start fixing a leak
If a pipe leaks at the connection
Repairing leaks at pipe joints using cement
Installing the bandage
Using a wooden wedge in the bathroom
Sealing a pipe in a toilet
What to do if a plastic pipe is leaking
If a metal pipe is leaking

Pipe leaks accompany their operation from time to time: most often, the causes of such phenomena are corrosion or deformation. Thanks to the use of polypropylene, polyethylene and metal-plastic pipes the corrosion problem has been solved, but the threat of mechanical damage remains relevant in this case.

Where to start fixing a leak

Standard situation - it was discovered that a pipe is leaking: what to do in such cases? The first step is to determine exactly where the pipe is leaking. If a sink, washbasin or bathtub drain is leaking, the cause of this phenomenon is usually a poor-quality connection of the drain hole, siphon and entrance to the pipe.

In this case, to fix the problem, you will need to tighten all the threaded connections through which the sewer pipe flows. Sometimes it helps to replace the gaskets at these joints.

If a pipe leaks at the connection

Using the caulking method for cast iron pipelines

If leaks are detected at the junction of cast-iron sewer pipes, you should prepare for a rather complex procedure for eliminating the problem (read: “How to repair a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe - reliable and proven methods”). In this case, much depends on the quality of the docking work.

If caulking is carried out with lead, the procedure is as follows:

Clean the joint area until clean metal appears.
Caulk the gap using lead cones. This is done with a blunt chisel, since in this case it is quite easy to seal the gap with soft lead.

What to do if the pipe in the toilet is leaking:

Clean the joint from the old mortar using a narrow chisel and hammer. You need to act carefully so as not to damage the pipe.
After removal old stuff The gap must be thoroughly cleaned.
For new driving, use tarred strands and an aqueous solution of cement in a ratio of 10:1 to water. Before driving, the strands are treated with a special substance, which includes cement and asbestos in a ratio of 7:3. While kneading, add a little water: ready solution should be like plasticine.

Repairing leaks at pipe joints using cement

What to do if a pipe is leaking, and at hand from all possible materials Is there only cement?

In such a situation, work is carried out as follows:

The pipe junction area is cleaned, with the obligatory removal of the old seal. To avoid damaging the pipes, it is better to refrain from using heavy tools.
Next, you need to get a wide gauze bandage. Cement is mixed with water to form a slurry. A bandage is immersed in the resulting solution.
The same cement mortar treat the place where the pipes join, and then wrap a bandage there.
The hardening of the seal usually lasts for two hours, after which it can be sanded and painted.

In cases where a leak was detected directly on the pipe body, a completely different algorithm of actions will be required.

Installing the bandage

If a pipe in the bathroom is leaking, a temporary solution to the problem is to install a bandage. Before this, you need to determine what type of damage you will have to deal with (fistula or leakage), and where exactly it is located.

The rubber band is applied as follows:

A rubber gasket is installed in the emergency section of the pipe.
After pressing tightly to the pipe, fixation with a clamp is applied.

You can easily purchase a clamp in a store, but it happens that you don’t have it at hand at the right time. In this case, you can make the clamp yourself, or use wire, a harness, rope or hose instead.

The bandage rubber can be an old rubber boot, from which the boot is cut off. The same goes for a rubber hose and a bicycle tube. The width of the bandage is made depending on the diameter of the pipe being repaired.

Using a wooden wedge in the bathroom

There are situations when a high-pressure leak occurs, but there is no possibility of shutting off the water: how can you prevent the pipe from leaking? A bandage usually doesn’t help in such a situation either.

If the leak is caused by a fistula, it can be eliminated using a small wooden peg in the form of a wedge. The size of its tip is made the same as the resulting hole in the pipeline.

The peg with its sharp end is inserted into the fistula, after which it is hammered in with a hammer. This temporary measure allows you to gain time needed to call emergency services.

Sealing a pipe in a toilet

A leak in a pipe can also be eliminated with an adhesive bandage.

What to do if the siphon under the sink is leaking

The procedure in this case is as follows:

The water in the pipe is shut off by a valve.
You will need a hairdryer to dry the damaged area.
Selection of dense flexible embedding material is carried out required sizes. It can be rubber, plastic, fiberglass, etc.
To glue the fabricated patch to the leak site, you will need epoxy glue.

When using fiberglass, the cut piece should be enough to wrap the pipe at least 5-6 times. The width of the bandage should exceed the diameter of the pipe by at least one and a half times. It is more convenient to apply glue to the bandage with a brush or spatula.

After wrapping the bandage fabric around the pipeline, it is secured with a tie or clamp until it dries completely. The glue usually dries within 24-72 hours. The air temperature must be at least + 15 degrees.

What to do if a plastic pipe is leaking

If a pipe in a bathroom is leaking on a plastic pipeline, the gluing method is usually used for repair. To do this, take a piece of pipe with the required diameter, followed by cutting it in the longitudinal direction. Having cut off a longitudinal section from the finished cut (about 1/3 of the surface), use the resulting gap to put it on the damaged pipe. Read also: “How to fix a leak in a plastic pipe - options for sealing a leak.”

The area to be repaired is first cleaned, degreased and lubricated with the required amount of glue. A clamp is used to secure the patch until it dries.

If a metal pipe is leaking

It often happens that a pipe in the bathroom leaks: what should you do to avoid flooding the apartment and the neighbors below?

In this case, proceed as follows:

The first step is to shut off the water supply.
Cut off the damaged section of the pipeline using a hacksaw or grinder. The cut is made with an indentation of 30 cm in both directions.
Unscrew the threaded connection of the pipeline adjacent to the damage site.
Threading is carried out on the cut off fixed end of the pipe. It is convenient to use a gas wrench to hold the end of the pipe.
The coupling is screwed onto the threaded end.
A measurement is made of how long the new pipe should be, taking into account the threaded section.
To make the insert, use a pipe of exactly the same diameter as the old one. The manufactured segment must be equipped with threads at both ends.
To connect the new section to the pipeline, a coupling is used, which can be held using a pipe wrench.

Before screwing on the coupling, it is necessary to seal the threaded sections of the section using flax, sealing putty, or a special tape-fuser. In addition to repairing metal pipelines, leaks on pipes made of other materials can be repaired in the same way. If it is not clear what to do if a pipe is leaking, it is best to turn to professional plumbers for help.