We plant cherries. Cherry - planting and care in central Russia Crown formation, pruning

Cherry - growing and care in central Russia

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the crop.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and Moscow region good harvests They produce the following varieties: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Growing cherries will be successful if the seedling for planting is chosen correctly. His age should not exceed three years (optimally two years). The recommended height of the purchased seedling is at least 80 cm, and it has 3-4 strong shoots. There must be a grafting site on the trunk, which indicates the varietal identity of the seedling. The bark of a healthy plant is smooth, without signs of disease or freezing.

The root system of cherry planting material is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If the root system of the seedling is very dry - a light brown core is visible when cut, you can revive the seedling. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop and bear fruit well on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils are not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to reduce the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. Optimal timing of spring planting in open ground- end of April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. The fertile layer of surface soil is tilted in one direction, and the deep layer in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime to the planting hole, as they can cause burns to the roots.

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound of fertile soil is formed, on which the seedling is placed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After planting, you need to water the tree abundantly and mulch the tree trunk.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvest

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application of organic fertilizers, which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers(superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring they carry out sanitary pruning, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. For repelling, you can buy special nets at fruit trees, summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries, early spring (during bud swelling) spraying with a urea solution is used as a preventative measure. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Askarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.

Young seedlings need shelter. Don't wrap them around artificial materials(lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Bottom line

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest an excellent harvest of juicy and sweet berries every year.

Cherry is one of the most ancient fruit plants, loved by many for its wonderful berry taste and health benefits. It was known 2000 years ago; the Romans gave it the name “Curasunta fruit”.

Cherry is a capricious tree, it has many nuances in cultivation, and a gardener needs to know: when and how to plant cherries correctly, what varieties to choose and how to achieve abundant fruiting.

The sweet cherry is considered the closest relative of the cherry. Many people confuse cherries and cherries; only in 1491 did botanists determine that these are different crops, although they belong to the same family. Sweet cherries are often called “bird cherries,” and in Europe even Chekhov’s famous play is called “The Cherry Orchard.”

The tree can reach up to 20-30 meters in height, blooms profusely, and the flowers appear before the leaves. Breeders have bred and dwarf varieties up to 3-5 meters, which provides more convenient fruit collection.

The color of the fruit varies depending on the variety: yellow, pink, dark red. According to the condition of the pulp, it is divided into 2 types: bigarro - with hard pulp and late ripening and guini - with soft pulp and early fruiting. Cherry is self-sterile; for pollination it is necessary to plant 2-3 other varieties nearby. The Iput cherry is especially good for pollination.

The lifespan of a tree is about 100 years, but most often it is used for 15-20 years. Cherries can produce up to 25-30 kg of fruit per tree in a short fruiting period. There are 4,000 varieties of cherries in the world, of which 46 varieties were created by breeders from Russia.

When to plant: autumn or spring?

It is believed that the cherry is a tree that is more suitable for the south of the country, since it is very vulnerable to low temperatures and freezes slightly during the first permanent frosts, but nowadays, thanks to the efforts of breeders, the cultivation of cherries has become possible in other regions.

Cherry varieties have been created that correspond to different climatic conditions, are resistant to freezing and begin to bear fruit in required deadline for this region.

In the southern regions, cherries are planted mainly in autumn during leaf fall. Spring planting threatens the seedling with high temperatures already in March - April, dry winds and a large number of pests. In the fall, the tree manages to take root well and by spring it is already a strong plant, especially since there are no severe frosts in the winter in the south.

For the Central regions of Russia, Siberia, and the Far East, it is recommended to plant cherries in the spring in order to summer period the seedling has grown stronger and taken root. Spring for planting a tree has another undeniable advantage: throughout the summer, the gardener monitors the development and condition of the plant every day. He will be able to quickly take the necessary measures in case of drought or excess moisture, pest attack or plant disease.

Preparing berries for planting in spring

Variety selection

A mistake for many cherry lovers is choosing a variety that is not zoned for a given region. Gardeners are seduced by beautiful descriptions, bright labels and do not take into account the survival rate of seedlings, the effects of climate and biological features cherries.

This is especially true in areas with harsh and long winters. Moreover, when choosing a variety, it is necessary to take into account not only sub-zero winter temperatures; changes are very dangerous temperature regime in spring – recurrent frosts.

For the death of seedlings, a decrease in temperature after a thaw to -2°C is sufficient, if it does not high level winter hardiness. Experienced gardeners in this situation additionally use smoke from fires.

The yield can also be affected by the composition of the soil in a given region, the duration and intensity of daylight hours, and the presence of stable cold winds.

The result is small yields, freezing, poor taste, and sometimes the death of the plant.

central region	Siberia	Far East	Leningrad region, North-West region
Pink sunset	Tyutchevka	Sakhalinskaya	Leningradskaya black
And the way	Symphony	Rechitsa	Zorka
Italian	Revna	Ordynka	Revna
Beauty Zhukova	Bryansk pink	Bigarro Bulat	Bryanochka
Valery Chkalov	Fatezh	Francis	Bryansk pink
Teremoshka	Northern	Dragana yellow	Rechitsa
Revna	In memory of Astakhov	Ariadne	Teremoshka
Bryanochka	Kozlovskaya Michurina	Sweet pink	Fatezh

No special zoned varieties have been bred for the Leningrad region and the North-Western regions; gardeners successfully grow the most frost-resistant and unpretentious varieties intended for the Urals and Siberia.

Now 2 varieties are being developed for this region - Seda and Yurga. A serious disadvantage for growing cherries in these areas is the cold winds from the Baltic Sea.

Planting dates for different regions

Requirements for soil and planting site

The soil for cherries should have a breathable structure, well heated, moderately moist, and slightly acidic.

The groundwater level is very important, since already at a level of 1.5 m from the surface of the ground gum begins to flow and the cherry dies. It is preferable to plant it on loams rich in nutrients; peat soils, clay, and sand are absolutely not suitable.

It is better to choose a planting site for cherries on the southern and southeastern slopes, well warmed by the sun. Lowlands from which water does not drain for a long time are not suitable for it; in addition, it must be protected from northern winds.

Soil preparation

When planting in the fall, the soil is completely dug up 2-3 weeks before planting, adding humus at the rate of 10 kg per 1 sq. m. meter.

When planting in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall by digging it up and adding fertilizer. Many gardeners prepare planting holes in the fall.

If the land on your site is not suitable for planting cherries, then this can be corrected. IN clay soil sand is added, and clay is added to the sandy one. Additionally, add soil mixture, which is sold in specialized stores, manure or humus. The soil is dug up and after a few years it is ready for planting cherries.

Light mode

Cherry is very demanding on light conditions. It feels good next to low-growing trees, forming a crown in the middle and upper tier for better absorption of sunlight.

Shading of cherries in orchards with tall fruit trees leads to the fact that fruiting switches to the upper branches, the fruits become smaller and their number decreases. For cherries, it is better to choose an open, sunny and warm place. For better crown lighting, annual pruning is used.

Cherries are contraindicated high humidity air, the fruits begin to crack and rot, but excessively high dryness leads to the fact that the leaves begin to fall off.
Cherry does not tolerate proximity to walnuts, rowan berries, pears, peaches, and black currants. Apple, plum and cherry trees are recommended as neighbors.
The distance between trees should be at least 4-5 meters, due to the highly developed root system of the surface.
Once every 5 years, the soil around the cherry tree must be limed.
Do not buy 3-year-old seedlings, they practically do not take root.

When planting cherries, care must be taken to protect them from birds. Otherwise, most of the berries will be pecked and not suitable for use. To do this, many people hang shiny, rustling foil ribbons or old computer disks on the tree. As a rule, this does not help, therefore, it is necessary to prepare a mesh net (50x50 mm) in advance and throw it over the cherries during the period of fruit ripening.

Preparing the planting hole

Early planting can destroy the seedling due to recurrent frosts, and delay can lead to prolonged survival due to high sun activity. The best time is mid-April, before the buds begin to awaken.

Preparation instructions:

The hole for planting cherries should be 80 cm wide by 100 cm and 70 cm deep; narrowing the hole downward is unacceptable. With such dimensions of the hole, the root system should fit freely in it. A stake is driven in nearby - a support up to 80 cm high for tying the seedling.
The planting hole is filled with a nutrient mixture to 1/3 depth: 2 parts of the top layer of soil; 1 part humus; 1 part peat; 100g superphosphate; 50g potassium sulphide;

You can use another composition for the mixture: 2 buckets of compost, 1 kg of ash and 400 g of superphosphate. Nitrogen fertilizers are not added to avoid root burns.

The hole is filled with the mixture 10 days before planting, mixed, the composition should settle.

Preparing a seedling before planting

The further development of the plant depends on the selection and preparation of the seedling:

The seedling must be grafted and have a strong trunk that dominates the side branches.
You should not buy a seedling with a forked trunk; under the weight of the fruits, they may break in the future.
It must have a developed root system without defects, with roots 15 cm long. If the root cut has brown tint, then this is a sign of frostbite.
A day before planting, the seedling is placed in a bucket of water to activate the root system.
Before planting the seedling in the planting hole, cut off damaged roots.
Long roots are trimmed, since the root system must completely enter the planting hole.
Before planting, remove all leaves, otherwise the seedling will dehydrate.

Step-by-step planting instructions

Pour a bucket of water into the planting hole.
Place the seedling in the recess of the hole next to the support; the neck of the seedling should be 4-5 cm above ground level.
Cover the roots with soil.
Compact the top layer and secure the seedling to the support with soft tape. The figure-of-eight loop is made loose so as not to damage the tree bark.
Make a circular depression around the perimeter of the hole for watering.
Pour out 2 buckets of water, make sure that after the soil settles, the root collar is at ground level.
Trim the main trunk to 80 cm, and the side branches to 50 cm. This is necessary to form the correct crown.
It is advisable to plant cherries in cloudy weather.
Seedlings take root best when they are 1-2 years old.
To attract bees, mustard is planted next to the cherries, experienced gardeners spray the tree with a solution of water and honey

Further care for cherries

Watering

Cherries require watering 3 times per season: in May during the period of growth of green mass, before flowering, in June, when the fruits begin to ripen, and before winter.

20 days before harvest, watering is stopped, otherwise the fruits will crack and rot. Watering is carried out to a depth of up to 40 cm, and pre-winter - up to 70-80 cm. In dry weather, the frequency of watering is increased. In the second half of summer, watering is not recommended, as this reduces the tree's frost resistance.

Top dressing

Fertilizing should not be applied in the first year, since the seedling received all the necessary substances during planting. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied during the 2nd year of tree growth. In the spring, 120 g of urea should be scattered around the perimeter of the tree trunk, embedded in moist soil.

In the fourth year of growth, the roots will extend beyond the trunk circle, so fertilizers are applied further from the trunk into the furrows made. In the spring, 120-200 g of urea are placed in moist soil, at the end of summer - 400 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate.

The width of the trunk circle is increased to 1 meter in the second year, and 50 cm is added every year. Cherry trees respond well to additional fertilizing with ash.

Throughout the summer until autumn, weeding and loosening of the tree trunk circle is necessary, since cherries cannot stand being in the vicinity of weeds.

Crown formation, pruning

Cherries require mandatory annual pruning, otherwise there will be no good harvest. It comes in 3 types: formative - in spring, sanitary - in autumn, and rejuvenating when the tree ages. For all options, it is mandatory to remove branches 40 cm from the ground. When pruning, the cut areas are treated with garden varnish.

Formative pruning creates the correct crown, this is especially important for young cherries. Before the buds open, shorten the main trunk and upper branches by 1/3 of the length, cut out the branches growing inward, leaving only those that grow at an angle of 45 degrees in relation to the trunk from the side shoots.

This type of pruning is called cupping. It provides good lighting for the tree, stimulates fruiting and simplifies harvesting.

Sanitary pruning involves removing dried, broken, diseased branches.

Rejuvenating pruning helps cherries to restore productivity

Diseases of young cherries

Sweet cherries are quite resistant to diseases, but there are exceptions. Verticillium is a fungal disease for many stone fruit crops; it is also dangerous for cherries.

First, the bark bursts, then the flowers fall off, the leaves turn yellow and gum appears on the trunk. You can use drugs such as Polychrome, Fundazol, Topsin. Clean the cracks and cover them with clay containing 2% copper sulfate. But, as a rule, treatment is ineffective; the tree dies within a year.

During a cold and rainy spring, cherry trees may be damaged by bacteriosis (tree cancer). It is not possible to save cherries; scientists have not yet created a remedy against this disease. The tree must be cut down and burned.

Errors during cultivation

Error	Cause
Buds do not bloom in a timely manner	The root collar is buried during planting
Reset of ovary and foliage	Untimely watering during the growing season
Freezing of a tree	Incorrect variety selected for this region
There is no regular and abundant harvest	No annual pruning
Lack of fruits	No cross pollination
Cracking of trunk bark	Sunburn, the trunk was not whitewashed in spring and autumn
Gum discharge, tree death	Rocks, crushed stone in the soil, diseases
Yellowing, purplish coloring of leaves after planting	Irrigation with cold water from wells
No side branching	The trunk was not trimmed during planting

Cherries are not only tasty, they are also very healthy.

It regulates cardiac activity, “fights” anemia, helps improve immunity and lowers blood sugar levels, improves vision and relieves irritability.

Women especially appreciate cherries for their properties to rejuvenate the skin, relieve swelling, and the ability to use them in various diets.

Growing cherries is a labor-intensive process, but the tree will thank you with a bountiful harvest.

Cherry is still not widespread in central Russia. To successfully cultivate cherries, one cannot neglect agrotechnical rules, which, unfortunately, not everyone knows about. We will talk about the intricacies of growing this southern woman.

Cherry is a crop whose cultivation in the middle zone is risky due to the insufficient winter hardiness of the trees.

In Russia, its plantings are concentrated mainly in the Nizhnevolzhsky and North Caucasus regions. However, thanks successful work Cherry breeders managed to push cherries much further north. Now it can be grown even in the Moscow region (except for the northern regions). Varieties have already been tested and proven themselves Fatezh, Chermashnaya, Revna, Iput and etc.

Cherries from the Moscow region have smaller fruits than those from the south, but they are not inferior in taste. However, compared to imported goods, which are collected in an unripe form due to long transportation, cherries grown in central Russia may turn out to be tastier.

New varieties of cherries are not inferior to cherries in winter hardiness, and even surpass them in yield. In addition, cherries in last years susceptible to dangerous fungal diseases (coccomycosis, monilliosis, clusterosporiasis, etc.), and cherries turned out to be the most resistant to them. Thanks to all these qualities, cherries from the Moscow region confidently take their place in the home gardens of the middle zone.

The most typical question: Why do cherries grow well but not bear fruit? In this case, there can be two options: either the cherry tree grows well, but does not bloom, or the tree grows and blooms, but does not produce a harvest. In the first case, there can be many reasons: insufficient age of the tree, imbalance of soil nutrition, “fatification” due to excess nitrogen fertilizers, freezing of flower buds (if there were any), etc.

The most common reason is insufficient lighting due to improper placement in the garden or dense plantings. You need to know that cherries are a fast-growing, large and very light-loving plant. For its normal development there must be free space of no less than 5 x 3 m (in extreme cases 4 x 3 m). Thickened planting can also lead to a decrease in potential winter hardiness, especially flower buds.

A common mistake is the desire to plant cherries closer to home or outbuilding in the hope that they will protect the tree from the effects of winter cold (1). This also leads to a lack of sunlight and improper plant formation. As a result, it stretches upward, the lower part of the trunk becomes bare due to the dying off of the branches, and fruiting begins only in the upper part of the crown, when it manages to reach the light above the roof. It is difficult to harvest from such a height, and the birds get it.

Lack of harvest abundant flowering This is most likely due to the fact that there were no pollinating varieties nearby or there was bad weather during the fruit set period (rains, spring frosts, etc.). If the weather is favorable and the tree blooms every year but does not bear fruit, then the reason is probably the absence of a pollinator. It is important to know that cherries do not have self-fertile varieties; they require mandatory cross-pollination. In this regard, it is necessary to provide for the presence of at least two, and preferably three or four varieties on the site for mutual cross-pollination. You can get by with one only if other varieties grow nearby. The main thing is that their flowering dates coincide.

If there is no place for a second tree, then it is better to plant only one, but spaciously growing tree, and make several grafts of other varieties into its crown. This is enough for pollination. It is better to plant a fast-growing variety as the main one. Fatezh(2), which is the most reliable for central Russia both in terms of winter hardiness and yield. Not as tall as other varieties, the tree with a strong spreading crown (branches extend from the trunk at right or obtuse angles) in July will delight you with tasty fruits weighing 4-4.5 g. They are good both fresh and for various preparations. Can be grafted into the crown Chermashnaya(with yellow berries of dessert flavor that ripen earlier than others), etc. A set of different varieties will allow you to create a conveyor according to ripening dates from the end of June and almost the whole of July.

By the way, vaccinations can be done by cuttings in the spring and by budding (for stone fruits this method is preferable). It is carried out at the end of July - beginning of August in the branches of young plants as thick as a pencil or a little more.

Gardeners often ask why two trees planted bloom profusely, but do not produce a harvest. In this case, the reason may lie in the selectivity of the pollinator. For example, according to Doctor of Agricultural Sciences M. Kanshina, the author of many varieties of cherries, such selectivity is typical for varieties Raditsa And Bryansk pink. However, most varieties pollinate well with each other while flowering at the same time. Two growing nearby and blossoming tree are left without a harvest, most likely if they were of the same variety, although they could be sold as different. Varietal identity is determined by leaves: one leaf is taken from the middle part of shoots of identical development from each tree and compared. For identical varieties, all the characteristics (for example, jagged edge of the leaf, shape of the base and tip of the leaf blade, etc.) are the same. There are many such signs, but they require professional knowledge. However, I will give my author’s hint: cherry leaves have glands called nectaries. They are located at the base of the leaf blade and on the leaf petiole; they look like small tubercles about 1-3 mm in size. The most important thing is that each variety has its own nectary color, which basically matches the color of the fruit. In yellow fruits ( Chermashnaya) they are light yellow (3), in varieties with pink or yellow fruits with a reddish blush (Fatezh) - pinkish, in red-fruited ones ( Sinyavskaya) - red (4).

Of course, the signal characteristics will be the same in different varieties with the same fruit color. But here we must remember that the leaves of all varieties are necessarily different.

I hope that such a professional tip will help you purchase seedlings of different varieties. True, for this, the plants must have leaves, which are removed (sniffed) before the autumn digging, leaving them only on the tops. However, this is quite enough to conduct a comparative inspection.

Sometimes gardeners follow the wrong recommendations and harm their trees. Once at a lecture, an amateur gardener said that in order to speed up the fruiting of a large cherry tree, he bent back the branches and nailed their ends to the trunk. The result was disastrous: giant shoots grew on the branches, and resin growths formed on the trunks near the nails, and then the bark cracked. However, fruiting never occurred.

The recommendation gleaned by the gardener from one of the books turned out to be wrong in general, and even more so for cherries. With such bending, an arched curvature of the branch occurs. At the highest points of this arc, vertically growing wen shoots always grow, outstripping other branches in terms of growth strength. This reaction to too sharp a bend is characteristic of all tree crops. Bending should be carried out to the horizontal level of the branch.

Every third summer resident has cherries on his plot. But planting cherries, its closest relative, is much less popular, although many people like its juicy and sweet berries. The reason for this is the established opinion about the exceptional heat-loving culture. For a long time it was true: trees bore fruit generously only in southern gardens.

Summer residents whose plots are located in the middle zone do not dare to grow cherries, considering this activity unpromising due to the high risk of its freezing. But not all crop varieties are susceptible to it. Its zoned varieties are successfully cultivated in the cold climate of the Leningrad region, in the Urals and even in the gardens of Siberia.

Site requirements

Cherry loves the sun and does not tolerate drafts. It is better to place its seedlings in an area that is maximally illuminated and not blown by cold winds. The tree will be comfortable near a fence or near the southern walls of buildings. But tall varieties of cherries have a spreading crown, so it is important to leave them enough free space to develop. A hole for the seedling is dug at a distance of at least 3-4 m from the building.

Trees grow best on small (up to 0.5 m in height) hills that can be artificially landscaped, and in areas slightly inclined towards the south, southwest or southeast.

Here they do not experience a lack of light and warmth. You should not plant cherries in lowlands and in places where water stagnates for a long time in the spring. In such conditions, trees quickly die. The roots of the cherry tree are deep (up to 2 m long), and some of them are located vertically in the soil, so it does not tolerate close proximity to groundwater.

The crop grows and bears fruit well in loose soil. Light and fertile sandy loam or loamy soils are ideal for it. They should be fairly moist, but not waterlogged. On peat bogs, in heavy clay soil, on quickly drying sand with a meager supply of nutrients, planting cherries will not be successful.

Planting dates and scheme

The timing of placing trees on a site depends on the climate of the area. In the southern regions, autumn planting is more often practiced, carried out several weeks before the soil freezes. In Siberia and the Urals, it is better to postpone the procedure until spring. If the seedling does not have time to take root, severe frosts will destroy it.

Cherry is a cross-pollinated crop. It will bear fruit abundantly only if there are neighbors. It is recommended to plant 2-3 trees on the site, representing different varieties of crops. You can get by with just one, but only if you place a couple of cherries with the same flowering time next to the cherries. This guide also applies to partially self-fertile varieties.

Leave 4-5 m of free space between neighboring trees. Saving space is not here the best option. When planted closer, the trees will shade each other. Caring for them will also become more difficult. If the cherry tree is columnar, the distance between plants is reduced to 1 m. When planting such trees in rows, the interval between them should be 2-3 m.

Pit preparation

When planting cherries in the fall, the site is prepared 2-3 weeks before the procedure. The soil is dug deep and enriched with fertilizers:

compost (10 kg);
superphosphate (180 g);
potassium nitrate (100 g).

These dosages are calculated for 1 m² of surface area. You can add a special complex preparation intended for cherries and cherries to the soil. Soil with an acidic reaction is limed. It is recommended to do this in advance - 7-10 days before adding nutrients. Clay or sandy soil for growing cherries is prepared over several years. The first is dug up, scattering sand over the surface of the site, clay is added to the second. In the next 3-4 years, fertilizers are added to the soil. This can be done in spring or autumn.

The planting hole is dug 2 weeks before the tree is placed in it. It should be deep (60-80 cm) and wide (1 m). A support is installed in the center. Correctly, if it rises 30-50 cm above the ground surface. Fertile soil is poured into the bottom of the hole, adding the following components to it:

rotted compost;
superphosphate;
potassium sulfate;
wood ash.

The thoroughly mixed substrate should form a small mound around the support.

Adding nitrogen-containing compounds and lime into the planting hole can cause burns to the roots of the seedling; at this stage it is better to do without them.

After lightly compacting the soil mixture, sprinkle it with infertile soil on top. Having leveled it well, pour a couple of buckets of water into the hole, after which they forget about it for 2 weeks. During this time the soil will settle.

If cherries are planted in the spring, the plot and pit are prepared in the fall. Humus or compost is added to the soil. It is recommended to do this from October to November depending on weather conditions. In the spring, when the snow has melted and the soil has dried out slightly, mineral fertilizers, including nitrogen, can be added to the pits. They begin placing seedlings in them within a week.

Selection of seedlings

Cherry seedlings take root best when they are 1-2 years old. The height of the former should reach 70-80 cm, the latter – 1 m.

When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to the following signs:

characteristics of the crop variety (winter hardiness, immunity to diseases and pests);
appearance young tree.

A high-quality seedling must be grafted. This indicates that he belongs to varietal plants. Such a tree begins to bear fruit earlier, and its berries will taste better.

It is worth choosing a seedling that has many branches. It will be easier to give the correct shape to its crown. The tree must have a well-developed and straight conductor. Young cherries grow quickly. If the conductor is weak, stronger branches will compete with it. The presence of several guides is extremely undesirable: if there are too many berries on a tree, it may break between them, and the cherry will die.

The roots of the seedling are also carefully examined. There should be no dry or damaged areas on them. A viable seedling has a developed and strong root system. If it is open, after purchase it is placed in a damp cloth and wrapped with oilcloth (polyethylene) on top. This will protect the roots from drying out. Leaves from the branches of the seedling are immediately removed to prevent dehydration.

Buy a seedling better in autumn. At this time, the range of varieties in nurseries is the widest. For the winter, the tree is dug in, and in the spring (April) it is planted permanent place. You can do this directly into the dirt. There is no point in delaying planting cherries. It is important to carry it out while the buds on the tree have not yet awakened. This way it will take root faster. Seedlings growing in containers can be planted in May and even June.

How to plant cherries

Before being placed in the planting hole, the cherry roots are carefully inspected again. Diseased and injured areas are cut out. You can shorten shoots that are too long if they do not fit into the prepared pit. Then underground part young cherries are dipped in a bucket of water, where they are kept for 2 to 10 hours, depending on the degree of dryness of its roots. Planting begins when they swell.

The tree is placed in a hole so that its root collar protrudes from it by 5-7 cm. Carefully spreading its roots over the mound, they are sprinkled with infertile soil taken from the bottom of the hole. This should be done gradually, lightly shaking the cherry by the trunk from time to time. This way, there will be no air-filled cavities near its roots.

Having completely filled the hole, pour 1 bucket of water into it. When it is absorbed and the soil settles, the tree trunk circle is well compacted. A hole with a radius of 30 cm is made around the tree, fencing it from the outside with a rampart of soil. WITH inside A shallow (5 cm) furrow is made near it and watered well again. As the soil settles in the tree trunk circle, it will have to be added. The final stage is mulching the surface of the hole. Peat or humus is usually used for it.

If the buds on the tree have not yet begun to bloom, it is pruned after planting. 2-3 skeletal branches are left on the cherry tree, and the rest are removed into a ring. This should be done flush with the trunk so that there are no stumps left. The wounds are covered with garden varnish. When placing a cherry tree on the site that has already begun to flow sap, pruning its crown is postponed until next year.

Feeding and watering

For summer residents who already have fruit trees in their garden, caring for cherries will seem familiar. It includes the usual activities:

watering;
loosening the soil;
weeding;
removal of root shoots;
feeding;

If cherries are planted correctly, the need to re-apply potassium-phosphorus compounds to the soil will arise only after 3 years. They begin to feed the tree with nitrogen fertilizers earlier, when they enter their second year of life on the site. They are applied in dry form in the spring, as soon as it gets warmer. At the end of May, fertilizing is repeated, but in liquid form. When the tree is 4 years old, the soil under it is enriched with phosphorus, potassium and other microelements. Compositions containing them are applied in mid-summer.

Closer to autumn, trees are watered with organic fertilizers - mullein dissolved in water or bird droppings. IN last time During the season, cherries are fed before winter - in September-October. Here they focus on the appearance of the trees: if the leaves turn yellow and begin to fly off, the time has come to add nutrients. They are embedded in the soil during the digging process, going 10 cm into the soil.

Carefully monitor the cleanliness of the soil under and between the trees. When loosening, you need to treat an 8-10 cm layer of soil. This care is repeated 3-5 times per season. It is advisable to carry it out the next day after each watering or rain. It is convenient to use a garden hoe or cultivator for loosening.

During the growing season, cherries need at least 3 waterings:

before flowering;
in midsummer, especially if it is dry;
in the fall, simultaneously with the last feeding.

Before the procedure, it is recommended to loosen the soil under the trees, and after it, mulch. Autumn watering is required. It should be abundant so that the water saturates the soil to 70-80 cm. This will protect the cherries from freezing. Cold-resistant crop varieties do not tolerate drought well. In extreme heat, such cherries often dry out. Having discovered such symptoms, you cannot hesitate, otherwise you will not be able to save the tree. Will help him withstand unfavorable weather regular and abundant watering.

Crown formation

Gardeners have the most questions about pruning cherries. Professional guidance will help you do it correctly and as painlessly as possible for the tree. Whatever the purpose - sanitary or formative - pruning is pursued, it is better to do it in early spring, while sap flow has not yet begun. In summer and autumn, you can continue what you started, getting rid of shoots that thicken the crown and pinching the tops of improperly growing branches. Root shoots are removed throughout the growing season so that they do not draw strength from the tree.

Annual pruning of cherries allows you to:

increase its productivity;
improve the quality of berries;
prevent the development of diseases;
increase the lifespan of the tree.

In the gardens of Siberia, cherries are shaped into bushes. This makes it easier for the tree to withstand harsh winters. The optimal number of trunks is 3-5. The top of an annual seedling is shortened above the 5-6 bud. This pruning stimulates the development of lower lateral branches. Cherries are naturally prone to tillering. If you do not get rid of the strong shoots growing above the graft, it itself will quickly acquire the desired appearance.

A young tree is formed during the first 5-6 years. During this time, you need to lay several tiers (usually 3). In the future, pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes. The height of the tree is maintained within 3-3.5 m, and the length of its skeletal branches is maintained at 4 m. Chopping the berries and forming ovaries only on the periphery of the crown indicates the need for anti-aging pruning. It is carried out at the end of winter and beginning of spring.

Features of autumn care

With the arrival of autumn, it is necessary to take preventative measures against diseases and pests. Fallen leaves are raked and burned. Trees and the soil under them are sprayed with special preparations, their trunks are whitened to the level of the trunk. It is advisable to treat the bases of the skeletal branches as well.

When the trees are completely exposed, the last pruning of the season is carried out. In order for cherries to withstand frosts more easily, they are removed from weak, injured and improperly growing shoots. Annual shoots are cut to ⅓ length. Non-skeletal branches are shortened to 30 cm. At this time, it is better to use a saw instead of pruning shears. The remaining cuts heal faster. The procedure must be completed by the end of September. Late pruning is fraught with long-healing wounds, which will make it difficult for the tree to winter. Seedlings are subjected to it in the second year of life on the site. It is dangerous to prune younger trees before winter; it is better to postpone the procedure until spring.

A cherry tree damaged by frost dries out in the spring, and its trunk may become covered with cracks, through which infection can easily penetrate. To protect the seedlings, they are fenced with a kind of fence made of stakes and, after carefully pulling the branches together, they are placed under covering material.

With a competent approach to choosing a variety, growing cherries in orchards in the middle zone, the Urals and Siberia will not be difficult for their owners. If you care for it correctly, the tree lives on the site for a whole century, entering the fruiting period early. A recent seedling will bear its first berries in 5-6 years. Another 4-5 years will pass, and the harvests will be full. Watering, fertilizing and regular pruning trees will allow him not to reduce their volumes until the end of his long life.

Fruit trees (cherry, apricot, peach and others) are particularly demanding of climatic conditions and soil.

Despite this, there are many varieties of stone fruits that do well not only in southern regions, but also in cooler climates. In central Russia, growing cherries is not at all difficult if you provide the tree with proper care.

Compliance with certain rules will help not only to get a healthy, strong tree, but also to increase its yield. Thanks to large selection varieties of cherries, you can choose the most suitable for any climate zone.

Following the advice of care experts, growing this fruit tree won't cause much trouble. Some simple secrets They will help you grow a magnificent cherry orchard in just a few years and get an excellent harvest.

The best varieties

When choosing seedlings for growing in the garden or country house, it is very important to pay attention to the zoning of variety and species. Southern varieties may not tolerate frost and die, so it is best to pay attention to breeding varieties.

Bred specifically for the conditions of the middle zone (Moscow, Tula, Ivanovo and other regions), cherry varieties have all the necessary qualities to obtain a good harvest.

Factors to pay attention to when purchasing a seedling:

Frost resistance level. The higher this indicator, the better.
Tallness. U low growing plants lower chance of freezing. These varieties are also characterized by high productivity.
Timing of flowering and fruit set. It is recommended to choose seedlings of not too early varieties. This reduces the risk of freezing during spring frosts.
The need for pollination. It is recommended to give preference to self-fertile varieties. Even when planting one plant, there is no need for cross-pollination, so you can get a good, abundant harvest.

Taking into account all the factors, as well as the characteristics of the soil and the size of the plot, you can decide on the most suitable varieties of cherries for growing in the garden.

"Adeline"

The medium-ripening variety is perfect for growing in small garden plots. The tree grows up to 3 meters in height, has a comfortable pyramidal crown and does not thicken. The productivity of "Adelina" is above average - a healthy adult tree produces up to 60 kg of juicy berries.

The advantage of this variety is its good winter hardiness and disease resistance. At good care Cherries very rarely get sick with coccomycosis and moniliosis. In dry summers it may be vulnerable to pests.

The first fruits appear in the 4th year of the seedling’s life. The yield will increase as the cherries mature to 45-60 kg. The heart-shaped berries have an average size weighing 5-6 g. The pulp is juicy red and easily separates from the seed.

The cherry variety "Adeline" takes root well in the Middle Zone and in the climate of the Central Black Earth Region. For planting, it is recommended to choose 2-3 year old seedlings - this will ensure their better survival rate and reduce the risk of contracting diseases from other fruit crops.

"Gronkavaya"

The medium-sized variety is characterized by high yield and increased resistance to disease. Excellent for growing in large gardens. The “Gronkavaya” cherry was bred by Belarusian breeders from the “Severnaya” variety.

The large, dark red fruits are quite shelf-stable and easily transported. Suitable for universal use.

Due to the fact that the variety calmly tolerates even very low temperatures, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone and other regions with cold climates.

Varietal characteristics and features:

High yield (up to 70 kg per mature tree);
Winter hardiness index - above average;
Early ripening, self-fertility, high disease resistance.

Care requirements:

Since the tree is tall with a spreading crown, it is recommended for growing in large areas. To obtain maximum yield, it is advisable to provide good lighting and regular soil moisture.

"I put"

The cultivation of Iput cherries in the Middle Zone and the Central region began in the early 90s. The variety was obtained by crossing the hybrid forms “Leningradskaya Chernaya”, “Pobeda” and “Zhabule No. 15”.

Thanks to excellent varietal characteristics and simple care, has gained wide popularity among gardeners. Medium-sized trees have high yields and are capable of producing more than 90 kg of juicy berries.

Sweet cherries have large, juicy, dark red fruits. The stalk is short, thick, the stone is separated with part of the pulp. The average weight of berries is 6-7 g, can reach 9 g. The pulp is juicy, sweet, of medium density.

Caring for and growing cherries of this variety does not require special skills or conditions. Due to its high winter hardiness and resistance to coccomycosis, it is excellent for growing in the Middle Zone.

Planting seedlings

The place for planting cherry seedlings should be prepared in advance. A well-lit place, protected from drafts, is selected on the site. In the autumn, even before the onset of frost, a hole is dug 70 by 70 cm or more, depending on the growth of the selected variety.

It is advisable to plant several seedlings of different varieties at once, but at the same flowering time, so that they are natural pollinators of each other.

The soil should be fertile, light, well permeable to moisture. The most suitable areas are with loamy or sandy soil. It is not advisable to plant any variety of cherries on clay or peaty soil!

Drainage is poured into the bottom of the hole prepared for planting to avoid stagnation of the inputs. A third of the hole is filled with a soil mixture of fertile soil and humus. In this form, the planting hole remains until spring - the most optimal time for planting cherries in the Middle Zone.

In early spring, when there is no longer any danger of frost, fertilizers are added to the hole and mixed well with fertile soil. 2-3 year old seedlings are planted so that the root neck protrudes several centimeters above ground level.

After planting the tree, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly. For better survival of cherries, the top of the soil is covered with mulch.

Caring for young and mature trees

Young seedlings should be pruned immediately after planting (at approximately 100 cm height). Next season, side shoots will develop from dormant buds to form a harvest.

In the 2nd year after planting, the tree is pruned by about 1/3, leaving only well-developed skeletal branches at a level of 90-110 cm. In the next season, the crown is formed depending on the plant variety.

Most an important condition for caring for cherries is proper watering. It is very important to provide the tree with moderate moisture so that it develops properly and to avoid the development of diseases.

Stagnation of moisture can be detrimental to the plant, so in case of high groundwater, it is recommended to choose varieties with a small root system. Most optimal solution There will be columnar and ornamental trees.

Cherry is a fairly common crop in Russia in general and in the middle zone in particular. This is the oldest variety of cherry. In modern conditions, dozens of varieties have been bred with different size, taste and color of berries, height and spreading of the crown, and timing of fruit ripening.

Sweet cherries: the best varieties for a personal plot

When choosing seedlings, you need to pay attention to its zoning, since southern varieties will freeze or dry out in colder climates with high snow cover. Therefore, before going to the nursery, you should pay attention to some points:

Frost resistance. The higher it is, the better.
Stunting. Such plants are less likely to freeze and have higher yields.
Late flowering. It allows you to escape from the returning cold.
Self-fertility. Such varieties do not require cross-pollination, therefore, harvesting is guaranteed even when planting one plant.

Taking into account all factors, you can decide on the variety.

And the way

A tree of medium height (4-5 m) of pyramidal shape with a dense crown. Thick shortened petioles with three to four flowers white. Flowering early. Fruits of universal use up to 9 g (considered large) are glossy, burgundy to black in color. Juicy, sweet pulp.

Self-sterile, productive (up to 30 kg) variety, resistant to fungal infections.

Lapins

A variety of Canadian selection with low frost resistance, productive with simultaneous ripening of fruits that do not fall off for a long time. The fruits are large – up to 8 g, transportable.

With enhanced agricultural technology, they reach 13 g. Orange-red color and dense pulp. A variety with great vigor, highly productive, self-fertile, late-ripening. Fruiting begins at the end of July. Universal berries.

Leningradskaya black

The height of the tree usually does not exceed four meters. The crown is spreading. Under good agricultural technology, fruiting can occur in the third year after planting the seedling.

The dark burgundy berries (up to 6 g) do not fall off for a long time, ripen in July, and are picked dry. Used for processing, freezing and fresh.

Summit

The variety is frost-resistant, early-bearing. Berries (10 g) with a wine aftertaste. Transportable. Good fresh and processed. The variety is used for cross-pollination of many types of cherries.

Poetry

Tree up to 3 m with a pyramidal crown shape. Yellow fruits (6 g) with dense creamy pulp. The taste is sweet and sour. Average winter hardiness and drought resistance. The yield is high, the quality of the berries is excellent.

In addition to these varieties, the cherry varieties presented in the table are grown in the middle zone:

Name	Ripening time	Weight	Color	Taste	Tree height	Winter hardiness, productivity
Julia/Julia	mid-early	large, 8 g	Yellow-pink	dessert	average	No
Fatezh	Early July	4 g	Rose red	dessert	average	Yes
Bryansk pink	End of July	4-5 g	pink-mottled	sweet	average	winter-hardy, early-fruiting
Valery Chkalov	Early July	9 g	raspberry	excellent dessert	medium height	winter-hardy, early fruiting, very productive
Veda	July	4-5 g	dark red	the pulp is dense, sweet	low-growing (2.5 m), spreading crown, rounded	Yes
Olenka	early	Up to 10 g	red to black	dessert	stunted	increased
In memory of Chernyshevsky	June	4-5 g	Red to black	sweet and sour	tall	winter-hardy
Revna	mid-late	5 g	Bordeaux	sweet	Medium height	winter-hardy
Motherland	June July	6 g	Bordeaux	sweetish	Medium height	very winter hardy
Rossoshanskaya Gold	June July	6 g	yellow	sweet with honey aftertaste	low-growing	Yes

Video review of fruitful cherry varieties

When to plant cherries

Spring planting is practiced in Siberian regions with a sharply continental climate - short summers and harsh, long winters. In the middle zone, where the climate is temperate, more humid and warm, cherry seedlings are planted in the fall - in September-October.

This period is considered the most optimal, since the gardener’s task is to allow the seedling to take root well and go into the winter before the growing season (growth and development) begins. If the deadline for autumn planting is missed, then you have to wait for spring. During this period, seedlings are buried in a shallow trench with a slope of 45 degrees until warm days. In winter, to prevent them from freezing, you need to periodically throw snow on them, and cover them from sunburn with plywood, boards, and non-woven material. Polyethylene cannot be used to avoid spring damping.

If it is necessary to preserve several shoots, they are tied together in 4-5 pieces and placed in a groove with their upper part to the south, with their roots in the deeper part, to the north.

Advantages of autumn planting cherries in the middle zone:

During this period, there is no need for frequent watering, since there is enough rain.
Seedlings are sold fresh, recently dug up. They still retain young roots and leaves that have not dried out, by which one can determine the condition of the seedling, the presence or absence of infections.
Large selection and relative cheapness.

And finally, in the fall the gardener has more free time than in the spring.

How to choose and plant cherries correctly

Before purchasing, you need to decide in advance whether this plant will be rooted or on a rootstock. If the second option, then when purchasing, you need to find the grafting site - it has a pronounced thickening just above the root collar.

In addition, the tree must have a main conductor, which will subsequently become the main trunk, and pruning will be done with an eye on it. If there is no central conductor, then the result will be a highly branched plant with a high risk of breaking the crown during the fruiting period.

The root system should be 15 cm long, moist and without obvious damage. It is better to choose annual or biennial seedlings.

Immediately before planting, the plant is inspected again to identify any shortcomings and:

remove “soaked” roots;
trim very long root ends;
cut off those roots that do not fit into the planting hole;
tear off remaining foliage.

Under no circumstances should branches be cut, unless they are broken during transportation.

If there are dried roots, before planting they are placed in water for several hours (from 2 to 10) to become saturated with moisture.

When the seedlings are dealt with, you need to determine a favorable place for planting cherries. This should be a well-lit area, protected from the north wind.

Cherry does not “like” low-lying areas with high groundwater levels, clayey and acidic peat soil.

It “feels” best on loams and sandy loams with good aeration.

The planting site is carefully dug up, weeds removed, and leveled with a rake. Planting pits are planned at a distance of 4-5 meters from each other. Their diameter and depth are 80-90 cm. When the cherry orchard is planned and the holes are ready, the following is added to them:

humus - 3 buckets;
ash – 1 l;
superphosphate – 0.2 kg;
potash fertilizers – 0.1 kg.

In addition, if the soil is clayey, a bucket of sand is poured into the hole; if the soil is sandy, a bucket of clay is poured into the hole. Mix everything with a shovel and form a small mound in the center for convenient placement of the roots.

Nitrogen fertilizers at autumn planting do not apply to avoid premature growth.

You can start planting. First, a support peg is stuck into the hole, then the seedling is placed strictly vertically and the roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound. It is necessary to ensure that the root collar and place the scion (if any) was 3 cm above the ground surface. The roots are sprinkled with soil, periodically shaking the tree. When the process is half completed, a bucket of water is poured into the hole and planting is completed. The earth around is carefully compacted.

Then, they tie the plant to a support and, stepping 30 cm around the circumference from the trunk, make a small depression into which another bucket of water is poured. It is advisable to mulch the planting site with rotted sawdust or compost. If the soil settles after a few days, it should be added to the general level.

How to care for cherries

Caring for cherries after planting is practically not required:

The main thing is to protect it from rodents, frostbite, damping off and sunburn. To do this, the trunk should be whitened, wrapped in burlap and toxic chemicals should be spread out. In cold winters, it is better to add snow.
In the spring, when the snow melts, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitened - for reflection sun rays and for disease prevention purposes.
During the growing season, cherries require watering 1-2 times a month: young ones require 2 buckets, adults – 5-6 buckets of water.
The first 2-3 years in the spring they add only nitrogen fertilizers– they stimulate the growth of branches and green mass.
Starting from the 4th year, the full mineral complex is added.

The soil under the trees can be mulched, turfed, or kept fallow.

Pruning and shaping cherries

One of the mandatory procedures for caring for cherries is pruning and shaping the tree. It allows you to achieve regular abundant harvests. Improper implementation of these measures inevitably leads to weakening and death of the plant.

Spring pruning of skeletal branches before the start of sap flow is preferable, since they are clearly visible, and with the onset warm period there is no risk of freezing. The wounds heal quickly.

For the middle zone, the optimal time for the procedure is the end of March-beginning of April. In the autumn, after leaf fall and until October, sanitary pruning is carried out and the crown is thinned out.

Young seedlings begin to form from the first year when they reach 50-55 cm. If the trees have not yet grown to this height, then pruning is postponed until next year. So:

It is not allowed to remove skeletal branches if they have active buds.

If all agrotechnical practices are followed and with proper formation, the cherry tree will delight you with its flowering and abundant harvests from year to year.

Cherries are valued by gardeners for their high yield and unsurpassed taste of the berries. Many people consider this crop to be too demanding in terms of growing conditions, but this is a misconception. In order for cherries to develop well and bear fruit abundantly, the planting and care of which are covered in detail in our material, you only need to choose the right variety, protect it from frost and ensure timely watering and fertilization.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and the Moscow region, the following varieties produce good harvests: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Cherry seedlings from the nursery prepared for transplanting

The root system of cherry planting material is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If the root system of the seedling is very dry—a light brown core is visible when cut—the seedling can be revived. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

Sweet cherries bear fruit well sunny area from the south side

Soil preparation

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. The optimal time for spring planting in open ground is the end of April, before the buds swell.

Preparing a planting hole for cherries

Cherry - care after planting and before harvesting

Watering and weeding

Pollination

It is recommended to grow several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application of organic fertilizers, which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers (superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

Cherry trees are pruned in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring, sanitary pruning is also carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees; summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Protecting cherry fruits from birds using old computer disks

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

Cherry affected by clasterosporiosis

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Autumn whitewashing of cherries

Young seedlings need shelter. You should not wrap them with artificial materials (lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.