Laying wall panels with your own hands. Correct fastening of wall panels - a detailed guide! Features of PVC wall panels

Plastic panels today are considered universal material for decorating wall surfaces. Such finishing can be installed in almost any room - with high humidity, low temperature, high traffic, etc., the choice of places for installation is huge. At the same time, every time there is an opportunity to create an absolutely unique interior, thanks to the widest range of this product. The article will talk about decorating walls with plastic with your own hands.

Plastic wall panels are products made by extrusion from polyvinyl chloride (PVC). The process consists in the fact that a molten thick mass of substance, using special equipment, is squeezed out through profiled holes, which in shape correspond to the panel being produced. The pieces are then cooled at a certain temperature and cut to size.

There are two standards for panel thickness - 5 mm and 8-10 mm. The second size option, although it differs by several millimeters from each other, is still considered the same, since the same components are made for it, in particular moldings.
The width of sheet plastic for wall decoration can vary from 20 to 37 cm. The standard height of products is 260, 270 and 300 cm. There is also such a variety as plastic lining, the size of which is 10x300 cm, a sheet version, up to 120 cm wide and up to 245 high cm and panels in the form of square or rectangular tiles, with dimensions of 30x30 cm, 30x60 cm or 90x90 cm.

Selection of plastic panels

Before proceeding to the direct installation of products, they must be purchased, firstly, from the right amount, and secondly, in decent quality. In order to do right choice, the features should be taken into account different types plastic panels.

For example, when planning to decorate walls with plastic in the bathroom, kitchen or hallway, you should give preference to moisture-resistant products, with a high degree of strength and without protruding elements or ornaments.
For balconies, panels that are insensitive to sudden temperature changes and also resistant to mechanical stress are suitable, since due to the small space, frequent collisions with the plastic surface cannot be avoided.

Advantages:

long service life;
good moisture resistance, and thanks to the reliable connection of the panels to each other, water also does not get between the seams;
the material has improved soundproofing qualities;
resistance to mechanical stress and abrasion;
there are heat-insulating properties due to the internal cellular structure, in addition, it is possible to install an additional layer of insulation under the panels;
manifold design solutions, including imitation various surfaces(wood, ceramics, leather);
easy installation that does not require special equipment or special knowledge; in addition, when working with the products, practically no dust or dirt is generated;
Easy to care for, just wipe with a damp cloth or cleaning cloth decorated walls once a month, and in case of severe contamination, wash with warm soapy water, do not use abrasive detergents or solvents;
there is the possibility of installation on any surface, regardless of the degree of its evenness and smoothness (due to the installation of frame sheathing), and it practically does not matter what kind of cladding was used before;
can be used as finishing in unheated rooms (for example, on loggias or balconies), as well as in rooms with elevated temperature(interior decoration of baths, saunas);
increased fire resistance (withstands temperatures up to 400 degrees);
during operation they do not emit harmful substances;
low price of plastic for wall decoration.

Of course, there are also disadvantages, and the most important thing is the ban on use in places intended for the evacuation of people in case of fire, since when burning plastic releases caustic substances and strong smoke. Such places mainly include stairwells and landings.

Types of plastic panels for wall cladding

The top layer of PVC panels can be made in one of three main ways.

Lamination. The method involves gluing a special film onto the surface of plastic panels using a two-component adhesive, which, due to its special texture, can imitate many natural materials - wood, marble, leather. The film is resistant to moisture, light and abrasion, so that even after long-term use the products look like new.

Offset printing. A two-stage printer is used to apply the image. The first stage involves printing the pattern using paints, and at the second stage the panels are coated with antistatic varnish. Most often, this method is used to apply designs that imitate a marble surface. The main advantage of the offset method is that the resulting product is moisture-resistant, resistant to physical impact and chemical agents.
Thermal transfer/thermal printing. Transferring designs and patterns onto the surface from thermal film, which is pressed against the panel and then rolled with a hot silicone roller. The temperature at which the process occurs is in the range of 150-180 degrees; under the influence of heat, the varnish and colorful pigment on the film are transferred to the PVC blank. The film becomes transparent and is wound onto reels for subsequent use. This method does not provide an additional protective layer of varnish. At the same time, the resulting surface is resistant to external influences, UV rays, has a rich color and an original design.

Accessories for plastic panels

starting bar;
finishing strip;
profile for internal corner;
profile for outer corner;
connecting strip;
ceiling and floor plinth;
F-profile;
universal soft corner (for internal and external corners).

In order to install moldings (components), galvanized nails or self-tapping screws are used. At least 5 mm deviate from the edge of the element. You should buy accessories to match the color of the panels. Such elements can be easily cut with a regular construction cutter. External accessories are simply glued to the lined surface, but do not press the products too tightly against each other, as you can damage the plastic and create a dent that is almost impossible to remove.

What to look for when buying plastic panels

Product appearance. It is best to purchase products from one batch and, if possible, check products from different boxes to match the color scheme. The paint must be applied in an even, continuous layer and the surface must be smooth and free of damage.
Condition of stiffeners and their number. The more partitions inside the product, the stronger it is, while the stiffening ribs should not be deformed or damaged, in quality product they are smooth and often spaced. If it is difficult to visually determine the quantity internal partitions, then you can rely on the weight of one panel - it should be large enough, but not too heavy.

Lock connection. The tongue and groove must fit exactly with each other and, when connected, do not form gaps or irregularities, and can be easily connected without applying excessive force.
Price range. You should not purchase products at the lowest price, High Quality It definitely won’t be possible to get it out of her, which means that in the near future she will need a replacement and, as a result, overpay money. You should not give preference to a product that is too expensive; most likely, the price includes an additional payment for the brand. Most panels produced by lesser-known European manufacturers have a decent price/quality ratio.
Raw materials. If possible, find out the chalk content in the manufactured product, so if there is too much of it, then when the product is bent, a noticeable mark will remain, and sometimes dents.

Calculation of material quantity

In order for the repair to be minimally problematic, the required material should be purchased based on the calculations made.

Calculation of the profile for the sheathing

Calculations can be made in several ways; the simplest is considered using the example of a wall 245 cm high and 400 cm long. Optimal distance between the installed profiles is 30-50 cm. It must be taken into account that the sheathing strips are fixed perpendicular to the panels, that is, if the planks are horizontal, the panels are installed vertically and vice versa.
Having decided on the position of the cladding, you can calculate the required number of profiles. To find out how many racks are needed when the sheathing is positioned vertically, you need to divide the length of the wall by the distance between the racks and add one outer profile, that is, 400/50+1 = 9. This means that you need to purchase 9 racks 2.45 m long.
Do not forget that the lathing is done around the perimeter; accordingly, we add at least two guides, the length of which corresponds to the length of the surface to be decorated. This way you can find out the total length of the required profiles. You should definitely add 5-10% to this figure to take into account any undercuts or errors.
When the sheathing is horizontal, calculations are made based on the height of the ceilings. In addition, you need to take into account door and window openings, if any, their area is subtracted from the resulting figure.

Calculation of fasteners

When installing the sheathing on concrete or brick walls, you will need to calculate the number of dowel nails. The calculation is made based on the total length of the wall. For every 50 cm, 1 dowel-nail is consumed. You should also add a few percent in reserve.
If installation is carried out using clamps, then it is recommended to use 20 pieces of fasteners per 1 m2; as a rule, manufacturers supply them in packages of 100 or 200 pieces.

Calculation of PVC panels

First, the length of the wall is determined (in the example, 400 cm), and then the resulting figure is divided by the width of the plank (for example, 20 cm), that is, 400/20 = 20 pieces, the height of which corresponds to the height of the ceiling. This amount of material will be needed for wall cladding, mounting the panels vertically.
When installing panels in the form of individual tiles, it is easier to calculate by square meters, remembering to add 5-10% to the amount of material each time. Calculation around windows and doorways It is best to do it separately, subtracting this value from the total figure.

Calculation of components and accessories

As a rule, the length of most components corresponds to 3 m. If corner profiles are used during installation, then it is necessary to count the angles found on the surface to be decorated, and this is the number of components that should be purchased.
Calculation of ceiling and floor plinths is carried out based on the perimeter of the room, the size of which is divided by the length of the plinth (3 m) and rounded up.
Also, do not forget about the connecting internal and external corners for skirting boards, which are calculated based on the number of corners.

Methods for installing plastic panels

Almost no construction process is complete without the use of certain tools; installation of plastic panels will be no exception.

Materials and tools:

PVC panels;
solid sheathing or frame (depending on the chosen option, you may need: wooden blocks, slats, metal profiles, chipboard or fiberboard);
components for plastic panels;
insulating material (if you plan to install an additional layer of heat and sound insulation);
glue, screws, nails or staples (depending on the chosen fastening method);
sealant;
measuring tape, building level; ruler, pencil;
screwdriver, hammer, fine-toothed hacksaw;
screwdriver, hammer drill, construction stapler.

There are several in various ways installation of plastic panels. Each of them has its own advantages and features. In some cases, you can choose the simplest and least labor-intensive, but in other cases there is no such choice and the products can be installed only in one specific method.

Installation on the lathing

Preparatory stage

This stage involves taking measurements and making marks for subsequent fastening of the sheathing. You also need to make sure that all the required materials are available in the proper quantities. You can prepare profiles for the frame, but each plank should be numbered, since the height or length of the walls may not always be the same in each specific place. If the plastic panels have just been purchased, then they must be allowed to rest for 12 hours unpacked.
When installing panels on profiles or wooden planks The wall is not supposed to be cleaned, but if there is serious damage to the surface, mold or mildew, then it must be treated properly.

If you plan to install a wooden frame in wet rooms, then all parts should be processed special compounds, preventing the development of bacteria and wood rotting.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing is necessary when the wall has large differences in height and unevenness, and an additional layer of insulation can be laid between the wall and the panels. It can be performed in three main options: from wooden slats, from plastic profiles and metal guides. In general, the only difference between them is the way the cladding is attached to them.

Tip: when fixing the panels in a vertical plane, the lathing is performed in a horizontal direction. The smaller the distance between the guides, the stronger the entire structure. A step of 30-50 cm is considered optimal.

Wooden sheathing

To install a wooden frame, bars with a cross section of 4x4 cm or 4x2.5 cm are used. The slats can be attached to the base with self-tapping screws or dowels.
At vertical installation panel installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the right and left guides. Then horizontal crossbars are installed between them, maintaining the same distance between them.
For greater structural rigidity, additional vertical posts can be mounted. Each installed beam is checked using a level so that the location of the entire sheathing is in the same plane.

Metal sheathing

This type of lathing is somewhat more expensive than wooden lathing, but it is considered to be the most reliable and durable. The profiles are made of aluminum.
The U-shaped starting profile is installed first under the ceiling, then the same one is installed near the floor. They contain perforated guides on which the panels will be attached.
The guides are attached to the base with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 90 cm. It is allowed to increase the pitch of the frame sheathing to 80 cm.
To save money, we recommend combining aluminum profiles and wooden (metal perimeter and wooden stands).

Plastic sheathing

This is a modern type of frame, a little more expensive than a wooden one and more demanding on the evenness of the surface. Due to the fact that plastic does not rot, mold or mildew does not form on it, and due to the special method of fastening, the installation of panels occurs in record time, this type of lathing is increasingly gaining popularity among consumers.
The plastic guides have special fasteners that snap the panel and hold it securely; this also allows for quick dismantling of the cladding and reuse of the panels, since they are not damaged by staples or screws.
When installing a plastic profile, special attention should be paid to the location of the racks in a single plane, since even a small deviation leads to the fact that the clips simply do not snap into place. Most often, this design is used to decorate walls with plastic in the kitchen, bathroom or sauna.

Installation of panels

Installation of the panels begins from the corner, where a special corner element (or finishing profile) is installed into which the panel is tightly inserted and screwed using self-tapping screws or secured with a construction stapler to staples to a wooden sheathing and using clamps to metal frame. Then, precisely connecting the groove and the ridge, the second panel is joined and so on until the end of the wall or corner.

When completing the installation or moving through a corner to the next wall, you should install special components so that the tiled surface looks as harmonious as possible.
The final panel is not attached to the sheathing; it snaps onto the finishing piece, which holds it securely. If there are switches or sockets on the wall, then the plastic is simply cut through and a box is installed on top of it.
The installation is completed by installing accessories, such as ceiling and floor plinths and plugs for them, as well as corner elements that are glued to the surface of the plastic panels. If necessary, the joints between the panels can be treated with sealant.

Wall decoration with plastic video

Installation directly on the wall using adhesive

If you have smooth walls, you can install PVC panels directly on the base. The cladding can be secured using liquid nails. It should be remembered that the adhesive for plastic should not contain solvents.

Preparatory stage

This stage involves cleaning the wall surface from the existing cladding (wallpaper, painting). After which the walls are puttied with antibacterial putty or additionally covered with a layer of primer, which contains protective components against mold and fungi.

Panel installation

After the wall has been properly prepared and dried, you can begin finishing the walls with plastic. The adhesive composition is diluted strictly according to the instructions. The solution is applied to the wall using a roller, brush or notched trowel (depending on the structure of the adhesive composition). As adhesive composition Tile adhesive or liquid nails are used.
It is not advisable to apply the product directly to large area, it is enough to cover an area equal to 1-2 panels with glue.

First of all, the corner elements are installed, then the first panel is inserted into them and pressed tightly against the wall, long enough for the glue to set. Next, all subsequent strips are installed. The installation ends with a finishing element.
If plastic panels are fixed to a plasterboard base, then they can be mounted on small galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.
On final stage are installed decorative elements and, if necessary, the seams are coated with a special sealant.

In addition to the main fastening methods, there are several less popular methods. So, professionals use a method in which the panels are not fixed directly to the sheathing. Finishing or corner elements are mounted on self-tapping screws to the frame and all panels are tightly inserted between them. Then the ceiling is mounted and floor plinth, which also press the panels to the sheathing. This installation takes a maximum of 2 hours in a room of 45-50 m2. Of course, this method is more suitable for office buildings than for walls in the bathroom or kitchen.

To summarize, we can say that self-installation of plastic panels is quite simple; the main effort must be applied when installing the sheathing. By observing all the basic requirements and rules, cladding occurs in record time and at minimal cost.

PVC panels for walls - the simplest, fastest and economical way finishing. Polyvinyl chloride has a number of properties that contribute to its long-term use as a finishing material for any premises (bathrooms, balconies, living rooms, offices and shops). Wall decoration with PVC panels is not so hard work, anyone who knows how to use a hammer, level and screwdriver can handle it.

This article will tell you how to attach PVC panels to a wall, how to install the sheathing, and what qualities PVC tiles for walls have.

What are wall panels

PVC panels are often used in modern renovations, they are mounted both on walls and ceilings. Finishing walls with clapboard can be done very quickly, and the cost of such repairs will be significantly lower than tiles or drywall, for example.

The panels consist of a top decorative layer, dense plastic on the reverse side and thin plastic partitions, acting as stiffeners.

Among the advantages of PVC panels as wall decoration, the following can be noted:

the material is suitable for finishing any premises (with high humidity, with temperature fluctuations, with high traffic);
slats are easy to clean damp cloth, do not absorb odors, there are no stains left on them;
the low weight of the material facilitates its transportation and installation;
a huge range of textures and colors (you can find wood, stone, tile cladding, plain, multi-colored, glossy or matte lamellas);
compliance with sanitary standards - the material is not susceptible to infection by mold and mildew, living microorganisms do not develop in it, and bacteria do not accumulate;
the ability to hide communications and electrical wiring under the finishing;
fire safety - the material does not burn, but melts;
simple installation of PVC panels, which is easy to do yourself;
long service life - the finish does not fade over time, does not turn yellow or deform;
Thanks to the internal chambers, the panels soundproof and insulate the room.

Advice! If the room needs additional insulation, the air gaps inside the lamellas can be filled with any heat-insulating material.

When purchasing material for wall decoration, you need to pay attention to its quality:

panels should not be too light;
the shade and pattern on the decorative surface must be uniform and clear;
each lamella must contain a sufficient number of internal partitions, because they ensure the rigidity of the material;
it is better to choose material from the same batch so that there are no color mismatches;
Along with the panels, you need to buy moldings - decorative elements covering joints, corners, slopes and cutting lines of polyvinyl chloride.

The main and probably the only drawback of PVC panels is their fragility - the material is quite easily damaged by mechanical stress. Therefore, the cladding must be transported with care and the PVC panels must be fastened carefully.

How to install PVC panels

Wall covering with plastic panels can be done in two main ways:

Directly on the wall with glue.
On a wooden or metal sheathing.

PVC panels can only be glued onto a very flat and smooth surface. If the wall in the room is exactly like this, then covering the walls will take very little time and effort. You can’t say much about how to glue the panels - they are simply applied to the wall, placing the top edge in ceiling molding, and coat the joint line and back wall special glue for plastic.

How to properly attach plastic to the sheathing

The type of lathing largely depends on the purpose of the room and the climate inside it. For damp and cold rooms (bathtub, kitchen, balcony, pantry), metal profile sheathing is more suitable. The same profile that is used for installing plasterboard sheets is suitable.

For other rooms, you can use wooden blocks. In this case, you will need a special tool to cut the wood to the desired size.

Attention! For wet rooms you can also use wooden frame, but before installation it must be treated with an antiseptic and dried thoroughly.

When installing the sheathing, it is especially important to maintain the level. Regardless of how the panels are positioned (vertically or horizontally), the frame must be absolutely level. Then there will be no distortions, crooked joints and protrusion of plastic.

Installation of lathing on the wall

Before attaching profiles or wooden blocks to the walls, the surface must be prepared. To begin with, the wall is cleaned of the old finish: wallpaper is removed, paint is removed, etc.

Tap the plaster and identify weak points; they must be removed and replaced with a new layer. plaster mixture. They also repair cracks, chips and other major damage to walls. The surface does not have to be perfectly smooth, however, the smoother the wall is, the easier it will be for the craftsman to fill the sheathing with high quality.

The metal profile or bars are cut to size, having previously determined the location of the PVC panels.

Attention! If you decide to mount the panels horizontally, then the guide battens should be located in the opposite direction, that is, vertically. The opposite rule also applies: when the “lining” is positioned vertically, the profiles are mounted in a horizontal plane.

It is necessary to start installing vertical sheathing from the corner of the room. To do this, use a plumb line to draw a straight line in one of the corners. The profile will be mounted relative to this straight line.

When lathing horizontally, the zero strips should be fixed at a level of 1-2 cm from the floor and ceiling. If you plan to also cover the ceiling with clapboard, you need to leave a margin of a few extra millimeters.

Most often, PVC panels are mounted vertically, this reduces material consumption and simplifies installation. In addition, the range of such panels is much wider.

A special molding is attached under the ceiling, into the grooves of which the upper edges of all panels will be inserted. Then you need to drill holes in the wall with a hammer drill relative to the drawn line. The pitch between the holes should be no more than 15 cm.

The first profile or block is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels. Its evenness must be checked with a building level. Having retreated 50 cm from the first profile, you can install the second one. Installation continues until the opposite edge of the wall is reached - the floor or ceiling line.

How to install panels on sheathing

The “lining” begins to be mounted from the corner opposite the doorway. It is this corner of the room that will always be in sight; it needs to be tiled with special precision.

Corner molding is installed directly into the corner (there are moldings on sale for both internal and external corners, as well as universal parts). The part is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Now you need to secure the first panel. First they measure the desired height lamellas (distance from floor to ceiling) and bring its upper edge into the ceiling molding. There are latches on both sides of the panel: on the left - narrow, on the right - wide. The narrow latch is inserted into the groove of the corner molding until it stops, and the wide locks are intended for installing fasteners. A self-tapping screw is screwed into them, a nail is driven in, or special clips are used.

The installed panel is checked using a level. If all is well, you can install the second part. Thus, continue installing PVC panels until they reach the opposite corner of the wall.

Here the panel will almost always have to be cut vertically. A hacksaw is used for this. The edge is brought into the end, corner or universal molding to hide the cutting line. The last panel is not secured with screws or clamps - it is enough that the molding holds it.

To further strengthen the joints, the edges of each panel can be lightly coated with silicone sealant.

To beautifully process door and window slopes, the panels are carefully trimmed and their edges are covered decorative overlays. Places for sockets and switches are pre-cut out in the panels with sharp scissors or a hacksaw, and after installation they are covered with decorative overlays.

After all the walls are lined, you need to once again check with a level that the installation is correct. The lower edges of the plastic panels are covered with a plinth.

Installing PVC panels is quite simple. Absolutely no difficulties will arise if the walls in the room are even and smooth - the panels are simply mounted with glue. However, you need to understand that replacing a damaged panel and, moreover, completely dismantling the cladding during next repair It will be quite difficult - the panels will have to be torn off along with pieces of plaster.

Installing plastic panels on a frame is more difficult, it will take more time and require increased costs. But, if necessary, you can remove the damaged panel very quickly and “painlessly” for the rest of the coating. In any case, decorating walls with PVC panels is the easiest and cheapest way to update a room.

PVC panels are a practical and durable material, and therefore are widely used in. They are suitable for any room, and the variety of textures, shapes and colors allows you to make the interior not just cozy, but also very stylish. The fastening technology is quite simple, so decorating walls with plastic panels is an excellent option for a novice craftsman.

Selecting panels for finishing

The range of plastic panels is so large that it is very difficult for an inexperienced buyer to understand. To avoid mistakes, you should familiarize yourself in advance with the characteristics of this material and its varieties. You should only consider certified material, because low-quality panels do not have the required strength and quickly fade.

The main advantages of plastic panels:

The disadvantage of this material is its low impact resistance, so the panels should be handled with care during transportation and installation. Depending on the coating, the panels are divided into matte and glossy, and according to the technology of applying the pattern - into film and printed.

Standard sizes:

width from 200 to 350 mm;
length from 2700 to 3000 mm;
thickness from 8 to 10 mm.

The strength of the material depends not only on the thickness of the walls, but also on the number of stiffeners located inside the panel. To check how durable the material is, you need to press your finger on the surface - if the plastic bends, the panel will not last long.

Besides, You should not buy panels if:

comparison table characteristics of PVC panels (for comparison, plastic panels with a flexo printing coating type, 0.25 m wide and 3 m long, are taken)

Indicator/panel	PVC panel TM Decomax	Average Chinese panel	Average European panel
Front surface thickness, mm	2,5	1,5	2,0
Number of stiffeners, pcs.	29	20	29
Condition of the stiffeners	smooth, without deformation	smooth, there are minor deformations	smooth, without deformation
PVC panel weight, kg/sq.m	2,2	1,7	2,0
Appearance		The coating is smooth, but with obvious gaps in the stiffening ribs, there are slight deformations	The coating is smooth, without the appearance of stiffening ribs
Raw materials		after slight pressure the panel becomes deformed, which proves the high chalk content	after slight pressing, the panel returns to its original appearance, which indicates a low chalk content

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Preparatory stage

Preliminary calculations

You need to start by calculating the amount of finishing material so that you don’t have to overpay or go to the store for an additional batch. The panels can be mounted both vertically and horizontally, depending on the wishes of the apartment owners. When mounting vertically, the number of panels is calculated as follows: measure the length of the perimeter of the room, subtract the width of the openings and divide by the width of one panel. To the resulting number add 2-3 lamellas in reserve.

At horizontal installation measure the area of the room minus doors and window openings and divided by the area of one panel. Here the margin should be at least 10%, since the consumption of material for trimming increases. Additionally, you need to calculate the number of slats for the sheathing and fasteners. First, the height of the walls is divided by the sheathing pitch, which is usually 0.5 m, and multiplied by the perimeter of the room. The resulting number indicates the length of the slats in linear meters. By measuring the height of the corners and multiplying it by their number, we obtain the total footage of the corner profiles; to this number you need to add the perimeter of window and door openings.

Methods for attaching lamellas

There are three ways to secure the panels to the wall - using glue, self-tapping screws and clamps. The first method is suitable for very even and smooth walls; glue is used special for PVC, universal “Moment-installation” or “liquid nails”.

The use of this method simplifies and reduces the cost of the installation process, since there is no need to attach the sheathing. Disadvantages: it is impossible to replace a damaged panel; during subsequent repairs it is difficult to remove the covering from the wall.

Fastening with self-tapping screws is reliable and convenient option, which does not require a perfectly flat surface. To screw in the screws, you definitely need a screwdriver, otherwise the installation process will take a long time. Disadvantages of this method: a wooden frame is better suited for self-tapping screws, so additional time is spent cutting the timber and processing it

The third option is the most optimal. The clamps are conveniently and quickly attached to the sheathing and securely fix the panels to the wall. The lathing is mounted from a metal profile, assembly of the covering is carried out effortlessly. A damaged lamella can be easily replaced with a new one; dismantling the finish also does not take much time.

Tools and necessary materials

During the work, everything should be at hand, so materials and tools for installation are prepared in advance. You will need:

fine-toothed hacksaw;
pencil and tape measure;
level;
square;
plastic panels;
slats or plastic profile;
dowel-nails, screws or clamps;
screwdriver;
perforator;
antiseptic composition;
sealant;
ceiling plinth.

Preparing the walls

Before covering the walls with panels, you need to clear the old coating, seal every single crack, noticeable defects and treat the surface with an antifungal agent. Thanks to this, dust will not accumulate under the plastic and mold will not develop, which negatively affects the microclimate in the room. If the installation will be carried out on a frame, it is not necessary to additionally level the surface.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Installation of plastic panels

Step 1. Marking the walls

The sheathing should be fastened strictly according to the level, this will help to avoid distortions. In order not to measure out each rail, you should make markings on the walls. The bottom row of the sheathing should be located 1-2 cm above the floor, so mark a point at this height on the wall with a pencil, and then use a level to draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter. Exactly the same line is drawn under the ceiling or along the edge of the trim if the walls are not sheathed to the full height. Next, measure 40-50 cm upward from the bottom line, place a beacon, and so on until the very top. Strictly parallel lines are drawn through the beacons along the perimeter of the walls. The marking is ready.

The panels must be attached to the sheathing perpendicularly, so the horizontal frame is sheathed vertically, and vice versa. To make markings for vertical sheathing, the first line is drawn in the corner from ceiling to floor using a plumb line. Next, mark the second corner, and then draw the remaining lines in increments of 50 cm.

Step 2. Installation of the sheathing

If wood is used for the sheathing, all slats must be primed with an antiseptic agent in advance. Along the marking lines, holes for dowels are drilled with a hammer drill at a distance of 50 cm, then slats are applied, leveled horizontally and secured to the wall. Where the walls have unevenness, lay them under the sheathing wooden wedges. If wiring runs along the wall, it must be hidden under the trim. To do this, take measurements, drill holes in the wall and secure the wires with clamps so that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the sheathing.

Step 3. Attaching the slats

The first lamella is installed in the far corner from the entrance, which is considered the most noticeable.

Take measurements and, if necessary, cut the panel to length with a hacksaw. One edge of the panel is inserted into the side molding, applied to the corner and secured to the sheathing from the back.

The second lamella is inserted into the mounting groove of the first, the joints are pressed tightly and fixed to the frame slats.

To achieve maximum sealing of the joints, the side edges are lightly coated with silicone before insertion. All subsequent elements are mounted in exactly the same way.

For switches and sockets in panels sharp knife cut holes, and after installation close these areas plastic boxes. The last lamella most often requires cutting in width, so first try it on the wall, mark the cutting line with a pencil and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.

Step 4. Installing moldings

After installing all the elements, the surface should look monolithic and smooth, without gaps at the seams and around the perimeter. To do this, all corners, joints and connections are covered with special plastic moldings. Their design allows you to carefully insert the edges of the panels on both sides, making the corners look much more attractive.

Finally, decorative molding is installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and plastic molding is attached around the perimeter of the floor. At this point, finishing the walls with PVC panels is considered complete. With careful use, the panels do not lose their attractiveness for a long time and do not require repairs.

Video - Wall decoration with plastic panels

It is not for nothing that polyvinyl chloride has gained such wide popularity in the construction industry. A wide variety of materials are made from it, which are used in construction and decoration. Installation of PVC panels on walls and especially ceilings is a fairly common occurrence, and today every team of builders offers similar services. However, due to the simplicity of the device and installation, it is quite possible to independently install PVC slabs.

Where to begin?

The first thing that sometimes receives insufficient attention is measurements and planning. It is not enough to measure the length and width of the ceiling and simply buy the required number of panels; all aspects of preliminary preparation must be taken into account. If the surface is perfectly flat, then simple gluing of slabs on the ceiling or walls will be enough for unpretentious tastes. In the case when the plans include giving the room not only aesthetic appeal, but also practicality, it is worth thinking about installing a full-fledged frame in which it is possible to hide various types of communications, for example, lighting.

Of course, it is difficult to imagine a job in which there is no need to use a tool. IN in this case you will need the following:

a hammer drill or drill with a hammer function to the delight of all neighbors during installation work,
stepladder (for working in apartments with a standard ceiling height of 2.5 meters optimal choice there will be an inexpensive aluminum stepladder 1.8 meters high),
hacksaws for wood and metal (a hacksaw for metal is best suited for cutting PVC panels, allowing you to make the edges of the cut as smooth as possible),
tape measure and building level,
a painter's knife or shoemaker's knife (a well-sharpened piece of steel will also work; the blade should be tilted at 60 degrees, optimal width blades - 10 centimeters),
hammer,
self-tapping screws or wallpaper nails with which PVC panels are fastened to the frame.

Finishing with PVC panels requires the mandatory use of the specified tools for work, since without them it is impossible to accurately perform the installation (the only exception is a hammer drill, which is needed to quickly level the problem surface). After selecting the tool, you should proceed to the first stage of work, marking.

Preliminary preparation and measurements

First, the markings are applied to the entire work surface. Since PVC ceiling slabs have standard sizes slats, it all depends on preference. The most popular solution is “lining” - long strips that are 10 cm wide. It is necessary to draw lines to install the profile every 400 millimeters. The first mark is made along the width of the PVC panel, starting from the lowest point on the ceiling. After this, using a building level, marks are drawn along the perimeter of the surface for attaching anchors or dowels, depending on preference, with the help of which the frame will be installed to the surface of the wall or ceiling.

Please note that the profiles of the main load-bearing frame always attached perpendicular to the location of the PVC plates. Experts recommend using not only a system of marks and a level for marking, but also an ordinary thin rope for quick marking. How to make it? Simple enough. You should simply “color” the rope with colored chalk and press its ends to the surface - in this case, the marks made with chalk will remain on the wall. This method will significantly speed up the marking process, which will save time spent on preliminary work. Finishing any surface with PVC panels, be it a wall or a ceiling, begins with assembling the frame.

Frame assembly

Initially, the frame consists of profile connections made from different materials. The following types of frames are distinguished:

wooden frame,
plastic sheathing,
metal profiles,

Each variety has its own advantages and is used depending on preference.

A wooden frame is built infrequently, since such a design has more disadvantages than practical advantages. Wood is afraid of moisture and freezing, as well as drying out due to heat, for this reason the question of the need to install a wooden frame, especially in those rooms in which the influence of climate is noticeably felt (balcony or loggia, for example) is quite controversial.

If there are no contraindications, wooden beams are attached to the covering every 60 centimeters using dowels or impact screws; a lining must be used to level the placement of the boards. In general, this type of frame is inferior in its properties to similar structures made of plastic and metal.

Plastic U-shaped profiles have many advantages, among which are:

low cost,
light weight (which is especially important when carrying out installation work on the ceiling),
ease of fastening,
insensitive to moisture and heat.

Such profiles are attached quite easily. According to pre-drawn lines, every 30 centimeters, dowels or screws are installed, which are screwed in every meter. It is important to pay attention to the fact that when joining profiles, especially at an angle, it is necessary to use a hacksaw and a miter box (which is a tray for cutting boards at an angle of 45, 30 and 90 degrees). In this case, the cut will be barely noticeable, and the joints will be smooth and tightly adjacent to each other. Another advantage plastic sheathing They highlight the fact that the internal grooves form cable channels for laying communications (wiring for lighting, for example).

A frame made of a metal profile is most suitable for the construction of vertical areas and is most often used for finishing walls with plasterboard (since sheets of this material have significant weight). Due to their light weight, PVC wall panels do not require a powerful and strong frame; for this reason, preference when choosing a design is given to plastic. When using metal, the cable for lighting must be laid in corrugated polyvinyl chloride pipes (PVC) to ensure fire resistance and prevent damage to the braid of power cables from the sharp edges of the metal frame.

Installation requirements

Despite the ease of working with polyvinyl chloride products, the panels also require compliance with certain requirements. Among them the following stand out:

before installation, the material must be allowed to rest for a period of time, this is especially true for those conditions when it was stored at a temperature below 10 degrees Celsius,
PVC slats are positioned perpendicular to the frame slats,
if the room humidity is high, it is necessary to make ventilation cuts in the frame,
When installing, gaps of 5 millimeters must be taken into account to take into account temperature changes in PVC coverings,

when installing coverings with a pattern, work is always carried out from the left corner to the right (this does not apply to plain coverings),
installation work cannot be carried out in those rooms whose internal temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius (that is, the specified PVC panels are categorically not suitable for creating interiors in steam rooms and baths),

Installation of ceiling panels

After the frame has been mounted, it is worth starting to install the PVC panels. The strips are cut along the length of the ceiling and installed in order, starting with the outermost one. The first strip is attached to the very corner, using self-tapping screws, to the transverse profiles, which form additional rigidity of the frame. The next panels are already inserted into the grooves of the previous ones, so the installation is carried out to the end.

There is a possibility that difficulties may arise during the installation of the last panel, since the material will need to be cut to width. There is another option for attaching the final panel: when it is turned over with a fastening lock in the other direction and the groove is trimmed from the side to the required length.

After the installation of all panels has been completed, it is time for the final work, namely installation ceiling plinth. It is installed quite simply: a layer is applied to the inside liquid nails, after which the plinth is pressed against the finished ceiling and held for 10 seconds for the glue to dry. After that, all that remains is to remove excess glue from the surface and the ceiling is mounted.

It is worth noting that liquid nails on moldings dry out almost instantly, so removal of sagging should be done as quickly as possible.

PVC panels are suitable for the design of any room, since there are a huge variety of models with a wide variety of external styles, but the greatest advantage is their use for interior decoration of the bathroom and toilet due to the distinctive ability of polyvinyl chloride to resist moisture. This is a significant plus in case of flooding of the bathroom by neighbors above. The panels will withstand the load and there will be no need to make major repairs. In addition, PVC boards are easy to clean and are not susceptible to the formation of mold and bacteria, which allows them to be used for kitchen decoration. Soot and grease resulting from cooking can be easily washed off using simple products. household appliances, so the choice of such material will be correct.

Installation of PVC plates on walls

PVC wall panels allow you to create spaces in a short time and at no particular cost. cozy interior. The installation process is not too different from similar works on installing the ceiling, and described literally step by step:

a frame made of metal profiles(this is due to the fact that PVC slabs for walls are thicker and heavier, and to hold them requires a more powerful frame than a plastic one),
then the first panel with a corner is inserted into the profile and mounted against the wall. The second and third panels are inserted into the groove at an angle and attached to the first using gluers (this is the name given to plastic brackets with jagged latches that allow you to securely fix the panel on the metal frame guides),
after that, all subsequent panels are mounted on the guides in the same way,
the last panel is inserted into the U-shaped corner and installed together with it on the frame.

After which finishing work is carried out related to fastening the corners and cornices. It is often possible that the wall should have access to electrical sockets and light switches, which will add some complexity to the installation process. In this case, the installation of boxes and laying of power cables must be done before the installation of PVC boards begins. Then, when covering with panels, it is enough to simply cut out the required size hole for the sockets.

It is important to remember the following at any stage of working with panels:

PVC material is quite fragile, so you should not apply significant external force to it when laying the panels. A strong hand press on the panel is enough to cause a crack to appear on its surface that cannot be repaired.
The panels must be carefully placed one against the other without any force. If necessary, it is possible to use improvised tools, for example, stationery knife, the narrow blade of which will allow you to guide the edges plastic PVC panels.

At the moment, PVC board, which can be purchased without difficulty in almost any variation and color, is one of the most popular materials for finishing a room, both internal and external. Before purchasing, you just need to check the quality of the product by looking at the absence of transverse uneven stripes and the number of stiffeners - to make sure that the product meets the stated expectations, and then the installation of such a coating will not cause trouble, and the PVC panels themselves will last long enough.

What are the different ways to attach plastic panels to the wall? How to choose material? What tools will you need? All this and step-by-step instruction installation of plastic panels.

Advantages of plastic panels

Polyvinyl chloride - practical and durable material. It is widely used to decorate the surfaces of walls and ceilings. With the help of a wide variety of its shades, shapes and textures, the interior can be made stylish and beautiful. Advantages:

immunity of the material to moisture;
simple fastening system wall panels, which is suitable for beginners;
long service life;
fire safety;
hygiene;
ease of washing and cleaning;
low cost;
resistance to mold and mildew.

The disadvantage of polyvinyl chloride panels is their low impact strength. It is necessary to carefully check the delivered building materials and carefully install them.

Tools for fixing PVC panels to the wall

Before installation, it is necessary to prepare the tool and auxiliary materials that will help you in your work:

for marking - a tape measure with a pencil or washable marker;
for cutting the canvas - a hacksaw with fine teeth;
building level, plumb line;
triangle;
for processing corners - plastic profile or slats;
for fixing to the surface - self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, clamps;
hammer drill, screwdriver;
antiseptic solution, sealant, glue.

Accessories that will be needed in the process:

external and internal corners;
docking, starting and F-shaped profiles;
ceiling and floor plinths.

To save time, choose a store where the entire set can be purchased in the same place as the main material.

Choosing plastic panels?

The characteristics of polyvinyl chloride depend on the manufacturer. Panels from Europe and China are available on the market. In terms of quality, the participants of the first group overwhelmingly win. The strength of the panel depends on the thickness of the walls and the number of rigid ribs located inside. Optimal indicators: thickness of the front side of the panel - 2-1.5 mm, number of stiffeners - 20-29, total weight of the lamella 2-1.7 kg/m2.

You should not make a purchase if:

stiffening ribs are deformed or damaged;
the lines of the drawing are unclear, the edges are blurred;
the shades of panels from the same stack differ from each other;
surface scratched;
the sizes of the segments are different (in this case, attaching plastic panels to the wall will be complicated due to loose fixation).

In order to check how reliable the material is, you need to press its surface with your finger. The front side should bend and return to its original state. If the panel is deformed, this indicates that its composition has a high chalk content and its service life will be short.

Calculation of the required number of plastic panels

Calculations are necessary in order to avoid overpayments due to additional purchases of material. It will also waste time if there are not enough building materials. PVC fastening panels to the wall assumes their vertical or horizontal arrangement. The choice depends on taste preferences. The calculation for the vertical is carried out as follows:

1. We measure the room (perimeter length);
2. Subtract the width of door and window openings;
3. Divide the remainder by the width of one panel.

The result is the number of panels required to decorate the room. You definitely need to add a few extra units to it in case the material is accidentally damaged.

Calculation for horizontal:

1. Measure the area of the room;
2. Subtract the area of door and window openings;
3. Divide the resulting number by the area of one panel from the kit offered in the store.

We add 10% to the resulting value - as a reserve. At horizontal installation the material will need to be cut, resulting in a small residue in the form of scraps.

PVC lathing: material calculation

When decorating the walls with plastic, you will need to hide the electrical wires. To do this, mount the panels on the sheathing. In order to buy the optimal amount of materials, calculations will also be required here. The lathing is made of metal profile elements and wood slats.

Procedure for calculation:

1. Measure the height of the walls in the room;
2. We divide the resulting indicator by the step of placing the slats in the future sheathing (recommended 50 cm);
3. We multiply the result by the perimeter of the room - we get the length of the profile in linear meters;
4. We measure the height of the corners in the room;
5. Multiply by their number - we get the total footage of the profile for processing corners;
6. Add the perimeter of door and window openings.

As a result, you will receive two values - the length of the slats for the sheathing and the corner profile. Be sure to add extra in case the material gets damaged during installation.

How to install wall panels in a bathroom

For rooms with high humidity, in particular, bathrooms and bathrooms, PVC panels are best suited because they are not afraid of moisture, mildew and mold. With the help of modern decor options, the design of these rooms can be made stylish and laconic without breaking the bank. To do this, you don’t have to buy expensive collectible tiles - use PVC.

The process can be presented in three options:

using adhesives;
using self-tapping screws;
using clamps.

The adhesive is suitable for perfectly smooth and smooth surfaces. Choose any of those sold on the market: liquid nails, universal “Moment” or a specialized composition for PVC panels. Glue will simplify and reduce the cost of bathroom renovation, because there is no need to construct a sheathing. The disadvantage of this option is the difficulty of replacing a damaged panel with a new one, since it will be firmly glued to the wall. You will have to dismantle it along with the outer layer wall decoration, which will then need to be restored.

It's easier with self-tapping screws. This option is convenient for masking pipes and wires. To speed up the process, it is recommended to use a screwdriver. There is no need to level the surface. The disadvantage is the need to construct a lathing base from wooden slats. This is an additional cost of time and money. Before attaching wall panels to clamps, a metal sheathing must be installed on the wall.

Finishing a bathroom with glue

Before installing plastic panels, you need to prepare the base. To do this, you need to thoroughly clean the walls, putty them, let them dry and level them. Before this, the old covering - wallpaper, tiles or peeling paint - is completely removed from the wall.

The putty will hide all the cracks, cracks and unevenness on the walls well. The size of the differences is allowed within five millimeters. If plastic is glued to deep pits or bumps, then over time it will become deformed or come off. Why remove the old coating from the wall? It contains dust, dirt and grease. All this will interfere with the normal adhesion of the adhesive coating. If whitewash is applied to the wall, it is thoroughly washed off, the grease is removed using detergents. Then a primer is applied and the wall is leveled.

Step by step instructions:

1. Preparing the wall: remove the old coating, clean, putty, sand;
2. Clean the back side of the panel with a damp cloth and dry;
3. Apply glue to the back side of the building material using the dot method in increments of 20 mm;
4. Carefully attach.

When using liquid nails as an adhesive, the panel is then tapped and lifted off the surface for 5-7 minutes. The composition requires airing. After a short break, the PVC returns to the wall.

The frameless method does not involve the formation of corners. As a finishing touch, cladding using ordinary plastic corners is suitable. They do not have grooves, so use transparent silicone to install them.

When finishing around the outlets, first cut holes for them. Take the necessary measurements and mark the place where you need to make the cut. During work, you must turn off the electricity.

Skirting boards are installed last. Self-tapping screws are used for this - with the help of them the material is attached to the wall, before which holes are drilled. The joint areas between the segments of the lamellas are filled with silicone sealant or regular polyurethane foam. This must be done to prevent moisture from getting under the plastic surface of the renewed wall.

Choice of glue?

The modern market offers universal adhesive compositions:

Moment Crystal;
Kleiberite 636;
Emfikol 34012A.

They are suitable for fixing PVC without professional help. Experts use glue for plastic. The basic rule of choice is to buy in a specialized store. This will protect you from purchasing a counterfeit or expired product. If you decide to buy PVC glue on the market, pay attention to the date of manufacture and the appearance of the packaging. Good quality adhesive composition will be ensured by:

its quick adhesion to surfaces;
long-lasting and reliable fixation;
resistance to temperature changes, moisture, frost.

Kitchen "apron": technology of mounting in a spacer

Most often the so-called. The "apron" in the kitchen is made using expanded clay or tiles. But you need to know how to lay tiles. Those who do not want to spend money on calling a specialist and are confident in their abilities can equip their kitchen using PVC panels. Modern options plastic materials successfully imitate expensive collections of ceramic tiles.

The “in-spacer” technology does not require the use of lathing, adhesive or special fasteners. It is suitable for small kitchens, where the working area is covered with one panel sheet. Step-by-step instruction:

1. Place the panel on the tabletop with the bottom edge, cut the material taking into account the required dimensions of the intended “apron”;
2. Place the upper part behind the hanging cabinet so that it securely presses the sheet against the wall; fixation can be improved using fasteners in the form of staples;
3. Secure the bottom of the panel with a plinth - it must be securely fixed to the tabletop; it is better to choose a massive and durable option for the floor.

The advantage of this method is that the “apron” can be easily changed to another at any time.

We attach PVC to the lathing frame

Before covering, the wall must be cleaned, but without seriously leveling the surface. Redecorating a bathroom, toilet or kitchen requires additional treatment of the walls with an antiseptic composition and waterproofing.

To make the lathing, wooden blocks of 2x2 cm are taken. For rooms with high moisture content - bathtubs and showers - they are recommended metal elements. Before using wood, the material is thoroughly dried to avoid possible deformation. The bars are treated with an antiseptic. If you decide to use metal, then choose a profile element marked UD (main part of the contour) and CD (contour guides).

The construction of the lathing structure must begin with markings. First, we determine the lower level - it can be on the floor or higher, depending on the design idea. This is where the bottom plinth will be installed. Take the most protruding section of the wall as a guide - it will determine the overall indentation of the sheathing. When adding 2-3 mm to the indentation. This must be done because Wood becomes deformed even under the slightest influence of moisture.

Then the top line of the sheathing and the side levels are determined. Use a building level to level the top and bottom, and a plumb line for the sides. Fixation is carried out using direct hangers. We place screws in increments of up to 25 cm for wood and up to 15 cm for metal. We attach the bars first to the edges, then to the center. This helps avoid design distortions and inaccuracies.

After attaching the upper, lower and side guides, we proceed to installing the internal ones. This is done taking into account the choice of the type of arrangement of the lamellas themselves - vertical or horizontal. Subsequently, the slats will be attached perpendicular to the internal guides.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. We install moldings - external, internal (corner, lower, upper);
2. We fasten the first panel and fix it with a clamp (the edges of the lamellas fit into the upper and lower profile);
3. The second panel is inserted into the groove of the first, fixed in the same way, and so on;
4. We install the material to the end of the wall;
5. We fasten the last panel, taking into account that it fits tightly into the corner area until it stops.

If there are pipes in the room that need to be hidden behind the panels, the sheathing is formed in such a way that they will be located under its frame. Additional angles will be required. Counters, valves and other elements to which access must be opened periodically can be hidden behind a decorative door. To do this, the panel to the guide needs to be “seated” on small hinges.

When choosing and installing a room, bathroom, kitchen, follow the rules:

You shouldn’t combine plastic with expensive ones finishing materials- stone, tiles, granite, it will look tasteless;
for small rooms, choose panels in light shades or with photo printing;
for rooms with high humidity, smooth materials are suitable; pronounced and deep texture will require constant cleaning, otherwise mold or mildew will appear;
when choosing panels, try to adhere to the general ensemble and color range in decor.

Plastic panels are a unique modern product with which you can create incredible images. With a little imagination, you can make your home unique and original. Study the instructions provided and feel free to start repairing!