Diseases of mock orange affect mainly when the rules are violated agrotechnical care for culture. It is important to promptly remove dying branches and burn falling leaves. If this is not done, then mock orange pests overwinter well in the depths of fallen leaves and in the spring they damage the crop to a significant extent.
This page presents the main diseases and pests of mock orange, accompanied by photos from detailed description symptoms and signs.
Look at mock orange diseases and their treatment in the photo, which illustrates the basic rules for carrying out agrotechnical measures.
All diseases and pests of mock orange can be effectively prevented using standard agrotechnical practices. You can find out which ones on this page.
Mock orange diseases and their treatment
Gray rot
Measures to combat gray mold. Collection of fallen leaves, thinning of plants, compliance with the requirements of agricultural cultivation technology, preventive spraying with one of the preparations: quick, pureflower, keeper, agromedicine. Let us further consider other diseases of mock orange and their treatment with available means.
Septoria spot
The causative agent is the fungus Septoria philadelphi Ell. et Ev. - causes the appearance on the leaves of round brownish spots with a thin dark border, up to 10 mm in diameter. Over time, pinpoint black fruiting bodies form, necrotic tissue becomes lighter, cracks and falls out. Affected leaves dry out and fall off prematurely. The infection persists in plant debris.
Control measures. Collection and disposal of plant residues, preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes.
Mock orange pests
bean aphid
Preventive and eradicating spraying with preparations in the spring: fufanon, spark, kinmiks, fitoverm, Inta-Vir.
Hawthorn Aporia crataegi L.
A large butterfly with a wingspan of 50-70mm and with characteristic black veins on white wings. The caterpillars are brownish-gray with short hairs. These mock orange pests overwinter in white cocoons in nests of dried leaves. In the spring they come out and feed, gnawing buds and young leaves. Having finished feeding, they pupate, attaching themselves to the branches with a web. The flight of butterflies is observed in June; they drink nectar en masse and openly flowering plants. After fertilization, the females lay eggs in heaps on the leaves; in July, the caterpillars emerge and feed for a whole month, skeletonizing the leaves, leaving only veins. At the end of July, caterpillars create winter nests and weave cocoons in them. Almost everything is damaged deciduous trees and shrubs.
Control measures. Spraying during bud break with drugs: fufanon, spark, kinmiks, Inta-Vir.
Click beetles
Several species of click beetles are widespread: dark (Agriotes obscurus L.), striped (A. lineatus L.), sowing (A. sputator L.). The beetles are brown and dark brown in color, ranging from 6 to 13 mm in length, and all make a characteristic clicking sound when they turn over. The larvae - wireworms - are long, yellow-brown, leathery, with three pairs of thoracic legs. The development of larvae, depending on the species, lasts 3-5 years; both beetles and larvae overwinter in the soil. The beetles skeletonize leaf blades, and the larvae gnaw off plant roots. They damage all plants and are especially dangerous for vegetable and ornamental herbaceous crops.
Control measures. Drainage of low areas, liming of acidic soils, removal of weeds, application of diazinon-based preparations: Barguzin, provotox, medvetox, zemlyan. Against beetles - spraying with drugs: fufanon, spark, kinmiks, Inta-Vir.
Every gardener sooner or later has a problem with one or more pets - the leaves of a houseplant turn yellow. Leaf color most often changes in autumn or winter. Before taking any action, it is necessary to establish the reason why the leaves of indoor plants are turning yellow.
1. Natural aging process. Depending on which particular plant has begun to turn yellow, rejuvenation is carried out using pruning or old, dying leaves are simply removed. With natural aging, it is very important to follow the rules of plant care.
2. The leaves of a houseplant turn yellow due to lack of moisture. In this case, yellowing can occur not only due to insufficient watering, but also due to very low air humidity in the room. It is necessary to carefully study the information about the conditions of a particular plant, watering and spraying regime.
3. Drafts. This reason most often leads to yellowing of the leaves of tropical plants, in natural environment growing in the depths of the jungle with still air. If an air conditioner is installed in the apartment, it can also cause the leaves of indoor plants to turn yellow. To combat leaf falling, you need to move the plant to another place, and maintaining light is an important factor.
5. Improper care. This situation is characterized by uneven changes in leaf color due to excess or deficiency of chemicals. So, when watering with hard water containing a lot of calcium, yellowing of the soft parts of the leaf may occur, while the veins retain their natural color. The leaves of indoor plants often turn yellow due to nitrogen starvation. In this case, fertilizing with organic fertilizer is necessary.
6. Diseases and infections. This reason is the most dangerous, since a diseased plant can infect surrounding flowers. First of all, a plant with signs of a viral infection must be isolated from the rest. Treatment depends on the type of disease and plant species.
We thank homecveti.ru for the material provided.
Jasmine
Jasmine: description, characteristics, photos. What does jasmine look like?
In appearance, this plant is easy to distinguish from other representatives of its genus: these are erect or climbing shrubs with a thin and smooth stem, which is covered with trifoliate, simple, dark green, odd-pinnate leaves. The stem ends with large flowers of regular shape. Jasmine flowers (umbellate or single) are collected in corymbs, which, depending on the type of plant, are lateral or apical. The aroma of jasmine is very pleasant and delicate, but in a small room (for example, at home), the smell can become highly concentrated and lead to headaches.
The corolla of a jasmine flower is long, resembling a narrow tube, inside which there are 2 thin threads that grow together and turn into a berry - this is the fruit of the plant, however, it is strictly prohibited to eat it. The color of the flower can be different - white, pink or yellow. The shade directly depends on the type of plant and the area where it grows.
Jasmine is a beautiful hanging plant. At proper care the lower part of its stem is gradually covered with wood, so the plant is often used as a decorative ornament, which blooms annually and does not require painstaking care.
Jasmine is often confused with the mock orange shrub, which belongs to the Hydrangeaceae family. Here is a photo of a mock orange:
The genus of jasmine currently has about 300 species, each of which has characteristics and nuances in care. The most common types are:
Flattened jasmine (lat. Jasminum decussatum).
This representative of the olive family is a small shrub. The leaves are light green, lanceolate and odd-pinnate. The flowers of this type of jasmine are fragrant, beautiful, and pale purple in color.
Shrub jasmine (lat. Jasminum fruticans) – an upright type of jasmine, which is a bush 1.5 meters high. The stem is flexible, twig-like; the branches are smooth and rather thin. The leaves are usually paired with two leaflets. Shrub jasmine blooms in semi-umbrellas, which are located on the side branches.
Multi-flowered or polyanthus jasmine (lat. Jasminum polyanthus ).
Medicinal jasmine (white jasmine) (lat. Jasminum officinale) – A climbing type of jasmine, which is endowed with thin, long and angular branches. Leaves are paired, smooth. The flowers are fragrant, white, growing on thin stalks. As the name suggests, some parts of this type of jasmine can be used as medicinal raw materials.
Jasmine sambac (Arabic or Indian jasmine) (lat. Jasminum sambac)- an evergreen climbing type of jasmine. Leaves are leathery, simple, oval or ovoid, from 2 to 10 cm long. Sambac jasmine flowers are white, very fragrant, simple, semi-double or double in shape, collected in few-flowered racemes. Single flowers are less common. The calyx of a jasmine flower is about 1 cm. In favorable conditions, the flowering of some varieties can last all year round. The following varieties of jasmine sambac are distinguished: – “Grand Duke of Tuscany”, “Arabian Knights”, “Belle of India”, “Maid of Orleans”, “Mali Chat”.
Chinese jasmine (lat. Jasminum grandiflorum) – an evergreen species of jasmine, which is a shrub or vine up to 10 meters high with bright green leaves and very fragrant white flowers.
Where does jasmine grow?
Jasmine grows in the tropical regions of Australia, South America, Africa, Asia and the Mediterranean region. The shrub grows only in warm climates, because it is only thanks to warmth that the flower blooms and reproduces. There are 2 types of jasmine growing in Europe and Russia - white medicinal jasmine and yellow bush jasmine.
When does jasmine bloom?
Jasmine: cultivation and care. Planting jasmine.
Many gardeners ask the question: “How to plant jasmine?” It is recommended to plant this plant in early spring or late autumn. The jasmine bush grows especially quickly and well on fertile soil, as it does not like stagnant moisture and excessive amounts of groundwater.
If you are planting a bush that is already large in size, you can immediately tie it to a stick dug into the hole so that the jasmine grows even and tall, because many of its species are endowed with flexible stems that initial stage growth may take the wrong position.
Jasmine: care, pruning, watering, feeding.
In both cases, mixed soil is required, composed of two parts peat and one part each of leaf soil and humus. Lignified cuttings of the first year's growth should be cut in the fall, storing them in a dry basement or cellar, and planting them in the ground in the spring. The lower cut of the jasmine cutting should be oblique, and only 2-3 buds should remain on the soil surface. The soil must be constantly kept moist, and if you place these cuttings in a greenhouse, they will take root even faster.
Indoor jasmine: care at home.
Many people ask the question of how to grow jasmine at home and how to care for this shrub. Growing jasmine indoors is not difficult at all. It is better to keep it in large rooms, but not in the bedroom. The strong scent of jasmine is very difficult to withstand for long. closed room, it immediately gives me a headache.
Indoor jasmine is not a very picky flower. TO temperature conditions It has no complaints, it can withstand direct sunlight, but not for too long. In summer, it requires abundant watering and spraying, since jasmine does not tolerate dry soil. In winter this is required to a lesser extent and depends on the room temperature. Water and spray homemade jasmine you need soft and warm water.
A young flower needs to be replanted annually, and an adult plant – once every 3 years. It is advisable to buy a ready-made soil composition, and be sure to provide drainage in the pot.
Homemade jasmine loves pruning and pinching, after which its appearance is immediately transformed, which in indoor conditions looks like a lush tree. This flower is propagated by layering and cuttings.
Why do jasmine leaves turn yellow?
Why doesn't jasmine bloom?
Jasmine: medicinal properties, uses and benefits.
Many people ask the question: “What are the benefits of jasmine?” This plant is widely used for medicinal, cosmetic and culinary purposes. Beneficial features The properties of jasmine are determined by its rich content of essential oils, formic, benzoic and salicylic acid. Crushed jasmine leaves and flowers are often used to disinfect wounds.
It is generally accepted that jasmine is a “female” plant that helps get rid of many diseases. Jasmine decoction promotes lactation, jasmine tea and warm baths can reduce pain during menstruation. The healing properties of jasmine are widely used to treat liver cirrhosis, hepatitis, rheumatism, bronchial asthma, hemorrhoids, and eye diseases. For cooking medicines all parts of this go useful plant– flowers, root, jasmine leaves.
The benefits of jasmine have been known for a long time. The healing properties of jasmine are used in cosmetology. It is an excellent anti-aging product and can also be used to care for dry and sensitive skin.
In cooking, special teas are prepared from jasmine petals, which have an invigorating and tonic effect on any person.
Jasmine: contraindications and harm.
Main contraindications for using jasmine for medicinal purposes:
- mulching ;
- annual thinning and pruning. Since a very dense jasmine bush with many shoots will bloom poorly, it needs to be thinned out, due to which strong young shoots will form, on which many flowers appear. Jasmine can be pruned either in early spring, before the plant has had time to bloom, or after flowering. To rejuvenate the bush, strong jasmine branches are cut to half their length, and less developed ones are cut off right at the ground. After this, the sections must be immediately treated with garden varnish. Throughout the summer, the bush needs to be watered and fed, and next spring, new shoots should be removed, leaving 2-3 sprouts on each stump. A completely renewed jasmine bush will begin to bloom only after 2 years.
- Feeding jasmine. In the spring, the plant should be fed, so you need to add wood ash and nitrophoska under the bushes. Jasmine also responds well to fertilizing with organic fertilizers - a bucket of manure should be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. For one plant, 15-20 liters of this fertilizer every 20-25 days will be enough. A solution of 10 g of urea, 30 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium sulfate diluted in 10 liters of water is suitable as a mineral fertilizer for jasmine.
- Protecting jasmine from pests and diseases. under unsuitable growing conditions, aphids or spider mites may settle on the shrub, which will infect jasmine leaves. To combat insect pests, the diseased plant must be sprayed with a fungicide. Read more about aphids and methods of combating them in this article.
- dividing the bush;
- cuttings;
- high blood pressure;
- pregnancy;
- peptic ulcer.
How to collect jasmine?
Jasmine flowers are collected in bulk containers without compaction. Then they are laid out on paper and dried in a warm room for several days, avoiding contact with the jasmine petals. sun rays. As the top layer dries, the collected buds are carefully turned over and any spoiled petals are removed.
Jasmine flowers can be dried in the oven (with the door open) at a temperature of no more than 35 degrees so that the essential oils are not destroyed.
- The aroma of jasmine is strongest at night, as the drop in temperature towards the end of the day leads to maximum flower bloom. In Indonesia, jasmine is the main flower in a wedding ceremony. In Asia, a potion is made from jasmine flowers, alcohol and sugar, which is believed to eliminate cowardice and make a person invulnerable to the bites of snakes and scorpions.
Yellowed leaves of ficus, dracaena, geranium
For example, the leaves of many tropical, heat-loving plant species begin to turn yellow due to constant drafts, running air conditioning and prolonged ventilation of the room in winter. In this case, it is enough to move the flower pot away from cold air currents.
Majority indoor species should not be placed in direct sunlight - in summer it is necessary to shade the flowers, as unsightly yellowish spots from sunburn may appear on the leaves and stems. But potted flowers should not suffer from a lack of lighting either. One of the signs of a lack of light is that the leaves begin to turn yellow on the shaded side. In the autumn-winter period, such plants require additional lighting using phytolamps.
Old leaves of ficus benjamina or rubber (elastic) gradually turn yellow and fall off for natural reasons after about 3 years;
Protect your ficus from sudden changes in temperature in the room and from constant drafts. The leaves turn yellow from too low a temperature and from direct sunlight;
¦ WHY DO DRACAENA LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
Dracaena does not like it when the substrate is poured and reacts by yellowing of the leaves. In winter, it is enough to water the plant once a week, and in summer - moderately, 3-4 times a week, when upper layer the soil dries out;
Pests can get onto dracaena through poorly sterilized soil mixture or from another plant. Inspect the top and bottom sides of the leaf frequently and remove any yellowed leaves. If yellowish spots appear from pest bites, then treat the entire dracaena with special products;
Bacterial rot. If yellow spots with a red-brown border appear along the edges and closer to the tip of the leaf, then it is possible that this is a bacterial disease. It is necessary to remove such leaves and eliminate the causes of bacterial rot (frequent watering, high humidity, lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil).
¦ WHY DO GERANIUM LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
Homemade geranium is sensitive to waterlogged soil and frequent watering. Before watering the flower again, the soil should dry out a little. Stagnation of water in the roots causes yellowing of the leaves and subsequent rotting of individual parts of the plant;
Leaves often turn yellow in winter when the heating is turned on. Place the pelargonium pot away from radiators and spray the plant if the air is too dry;
Royal geranium does not like too frequent fertilizing with fertilizers, especially those with a high nitrogen content. If the leaves turn yellow for this reason, then focus on potassium fertilizers, and do not feed them at all in winter;
¦ WHY DO ORCHID LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
Illumination. Orchids can react by yellowing leaves both to poor lighting and to excess sunbathing. Direct sunlight is especially dangerous - first, roughness appears on the surface of the leaf, turgor decreases, and then yellow spots appear, which increase in size. With a lack of sunlight, in partial shade, the leaf blades turn yellow and die;
The orchid is afraid of constant waterlogging of the soil. Overwatering and poor drainage can lead to rotting of the roots, after which the leaves and buds begin to turn yellow. Watering with cold and hard water is also dangerous, as this leads to the death of leaf tissue cells;
Dry air in the room and sudden changes in temperature can also cause yellowing of the leaf blade. A pot that is too tight does not allow the root system to develop normally, the roots are damaged, the leaves wither and turn yellow;
Fusarium rot causes root rot. Then the fungus actively spreads through the tissues, the leaves wither and turn yellow;
¦ WHY DO THE LEAVES OF A HOME ROSE TURN YELLOW?
Watering cold water leads to wilting of the bush and yellowing of the leaves;
The leaves of a potted rose turn yellow and fall off when water stagnates in the root system, which is a consequence of poor drainage and overflows;
Mistakes when feeding. If yellowness appears along the central vein, then possible reason- lack of nitrogen. Yellow shapeless spots between the veins are a lack of iron. Spots of different shapes on the leaf indicate a lack of potassium.
¦ WHY DO DIFFENBACHIA LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
Long breaks between waterings. Yellow spots appear due to lack of moisture;
Excess minerals after feeding. Yellowness appears on the leaves of homemade Dieffenbachia. It is necessary to replant into a new soil mixture;
The components were incorrectly selected when forming the soil mixture or the proportion was incorrect;
Dry air. First, yellowish spots appear, and then the yellowness spreads to the entire leaf blade. Be sure to spray the plant (especially in summer) and place a container of water next to the pot;
Direct sunlight. Spathiphyllum loves diffused light, and bright lighting causes burns in the form of yellowish spots;
Pests. Fleshy leaves Women's happiness’ are often affected by spider mites and flower thrips. After puncturing and sucking juices from the plant tissue, yellowish spots remain.
— photo: yellowed spathiphyllum leaves
¦ WHY DO YUCCA LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
Poor lighting in the background elevated temperature. Yucca noticeably stretches, young leaves begin to turn yellow;
Overmoistening due to low temperatures. The roots begin to rot, the leaf pattern loses its saturation and then turns yellow;
Pests such as spider mites and thrips leave wounds in the form of yellowish dots and spots on yucca leaves.
Natural reasons. On one shoot dollar tree There may be old yellowish leaves and green young ones. Gradually the old leaves wither and fall off;
Zamioculcas does not like waterlogged soil. If you water the plant frequently and water accumulates around the roots due to poor drainage, the roots will rot and the leaves will turn yellow;
In winter, during the heating season, the air in the room is too dry. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry;
— photo: yellowed zamioculcas leaves
Low air humidity (summer, heating season). Cyclamen drops its flower stalks, the leaves fade and turn yellow. It is advisable to move the flower pot to a cooler place, water it very rarely during the dormant period
Lack of nutrients. The leaves of European or Persian cyclamen will turn yellow if fertilizing is not applied on time. The best option— complex fertilizers with low nitrogen content;
Frostbite. Anthurium leaves may turn yellow if the plant was kept near an open window for a long time in winter. Watering with cold water can also lead to such consequences;
Can be called There are several main reasons that cause color changes.
4. Lack of light. In this case, the leaves turn yellow unevenly on different sides of the crown. The leaves on the darker side facing the inside of the room begin to change color and fall first. The plant must be moved to a brighter place or provided with additional lighting using special lamps.
Why do the tips of the leaves turn black and dry?
Leaf tips in plants turn black and dry. Large brown areas appear along the edges, they gradually become dry or soft, and the leaves wither. Even if they don’t wilt, the tips of the leaves on the rubber ficus are black. spoil the whole decorative picture.
Dry darkening leaf tips are associated with low air humidity. very hard water for irrigation. too much high temperature in the room. or vice versa, low. Also, dry darkening can also be a consequence of a burn.
In winter it is very good to use for watering indoor plants. melt water. To do this, collect snow in a container, leave it in the bathroom for a day, the snow will melt, and the resulting water will warm up to room temperature. For all indoor plants this is “living” water.
If the leaves darken and become soft, stop watering for at least two weeks. Loosen the soil in the pot more often to provide air access to the roots. Do the next watering no earlier than the top layer of soil has dried 3-4 centimeters deep.
If the dark areas on the leaves become wet and slippery, then the problem is most likely in the roots. Remove the plant from the pot and inspect its roots. Trim those areas of the roots where they are dark, limp, rotten, to white healthy tissue. Sprinkle the cut areas with crushed coal, treat the root system with root formation stimulants and replant into new soil.
Jasmine (lat. Jasminum) is an evergreen shrub that belongs to the angiosperm department, dicotyledonous class, order Lamiaceae, olive family, jasmine genus.
Types and varieties of jasmine, names and photographs.
In nature there are types and varieties of jasmine that differ in color scheme, the structure of the stem, leaves and flowers, as well as the height of the bushes.
Highlight following colors of this plant:
Jasmine Lerata (lat. Jasminum leratii).
The height of an adult jasmine bush can reach up to 3.5 meters. Unlike other types of jasmine, Lerata is endowed with green and long stems, dark green lanceolate leaves, and small white flowers that have a pleasant minty scent.
This shrub can be safely called climbing jasmine, since its branches are drooping and very wide. The height of an adult plant is 1-3 meters. The leaves, branches and stems of multifloral jasmine are covered with fine hairs, which give the shrub a gray-green hue. The flowers of this variety of jasmine look like stars and are collected in clusters. They are able to bloom along the entire length of the stem, as well as at its end. This type of jasmine blooms almost all year round, spreading a pleasant aroma.
Jasmine blooms at different times depending on its type, however, most often abundant flowering begins in early or mid-June. Newly planted jasmine bushes begin to bloom in the 2-4th year of their growth, but with proper care and constant feeding, the plant can begin to bloom a little earlier.
Before planting jasmine, it is recommended to dig up the soil well to mix the top and bottom layers. Then you need to dig a hole, the depth of which will be at least 50 cm. In order for jasmine to grow better, it is recommended to sprinkle the bottom of the hole with nitrophoska. When filling the roots, it is worth remembering that the root collar should be deepened no more than 3 cm. After planting, the jasmine bush should be watered abundantly.
In order for jasmine to delight you with magnificent flowering every year, it needs care, which consists of proper pruning, watering, feeding the bush and other measures:
Jasmine propagation.
Answering the question of how to propagate jasmine, it should be noted that there is nothing complicated in this process, because this can be done in several ways:
If the first two methods do not present any particular problems, then it is worth learning more about propagating jasmine by cuttings and seeds.
When propagating by seeds, they must first be stratified (hardened by cold). In March, jasmine seeds should be placed in a container with soil and then lightly sprinkled with sand. Place glass or thick plastic film which will prevent the soil from drying out. Jasmine seeds are often watered with a spray bottle or through a fine sieve, and the glass or film covering is wiped and inverted. After 10 days, seedlings will appear, which will later need to be pruned and protected from strong sun, and when they grow up, transplanted into open ground.
Incorrect watering and humidity conditions environment may cause the crown of the jasmine plant to turn yellow. Excessively hard water can also lead to this problem. Therefore, for irrigation it is necessary to use soft, settled water at room temperature. Direct sunlight is also dangerous for indoor jasmine; delicate greenery can get burned, which will cause yellowing and falling off.
If you want jasmine to delight you with beautiful fragrant flowers, it should be planted in acidic soil. In a neutral or alkaline environment, this plant can grow well, but never bloom. Improper planting of jasmine can also cause a lack of flowering. If the neck of the trunk is planted more than 3 cm into the soil, your pet will most likely not bloom. Replant your home jasmine so that the section of the trunk where the roots begin is located on the surface.
Jasmine root is consumed raw to relieve headaches and insomnia. Jasmine oil is used for massage; it perfectly moisturizes the skin and has a wonderful aroma. It is also used as an antiseptic to disinfect wounds. Jasmine essential oil is an excellent antidepressant, it calms and normalizes the functioning of the entire body, in particular the central nervous system.
Jasmine can also cause allergies, so people prone to allergic reactions should be careful.
Jasmine flowers have an interesting feature - they bloom not at sunrise, but at night. That is why jasmine is collected during mass opening. Because during this time period, all the beneficial substances are collected in jasmine flowers, and their concentration is quite high. It is worth noting that for long-term storage Jasmine buds should be collected if they are not fully opened. And if jasmine flowers are needed for use in the near future, then they can be collected at any stage of opening.
How to dry jasmine for tea?
From this material you will learn Why do the leaves of indoor plants turn yellow?. what causes the appearance of yellow spots on certain types of potted flowers. We would like to emphasize right away that these problems are often encountered by beginning flower growers who commit violations when organizing flower care at home.
Another common mistake gardeners make is wrong mode watering indoor plants. Many species have different frequency and amount of water for irrigation at different times of the year. Some plants cannot be watered at all in winter, during the dormant period. Other species cannot be sprayed at all, as this procedure can cause the appearance of yellow spots, which reduce the decorative value of the flower. There are also moisture-loving plants that suffer from insufficient watering frequency and the leaves begin to turn yellow when the substrate dries out. Watering with cold and hard chlorinated (not settled running) water also often causes yellow spots to appear on the leaves of domestic flowers.
Fertilizer feeding also differs depending on different types the ratio of nutrients in the solution, dosage, frequency of fertilizing. The leaves of indoor plants turn yellow both from a lack of nutrients (for example, chlorosis may begin) and from an excess. Usually, the leaves in the upper part of the plant begin to turn yellow first, and yellowish spots appear along the veins.
Yellowness on the leaf blades appears as a result of a fungal disease (anthracnose, fusarium, late blight) or when the plant is damaged by pests (spider mites, aphids, thrips, whitefly larvae). Viral infections and bacterial diseases (bacteriosis) can also cause yellowish spots on the leaf blades.
¦ WHY DO FICUS LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
Leaves may turn yellow after an unsuccessful transplant (or incorrectly selected soil mixture), as well as after moving a pot of ficus to another place (change of location);
Violation of the irrigation regime. Ficuses really do not like waterlogging of the substrate. If many of the leaves on the plant have turned yellow or yellow spots have appeared, carefully immerse a light-colored wooden stick into the soil mixture. If the stick becomes very wet, it means that water stagnation has formed at the level of the root system. It is best to transplant the plant into a new soil mixture, make good drainage and constantly pour water from the pan;
The fleshy leaves of the ficus (‘Kinki’, white ‘De Gantelle’, ‘Robusta’, microcarpa Ginseng, lyre-shaped) are very popular with a variety of pests. They damage plant tissues and suck out juices, and as a result, first small yellow spots appear, and then the leaf blade turns completely yellow.
For natural reasons. The lower old leaves gradually turn yellow and fall off (after about 2-3 years);
The air is too dry. The leaves begin to turn yellow and their tips dry out. It is advisable to place the pot in a tray with wet pebbles, spray it with warm, settled water from a spray bottle, ventilate the room more often or install a humidifier;
The leaves wither and turn yellow if the pot of dracaena is moved or turned too often. Constant temperature changes and drafts also worsen the decorative qualities of the leaves;
One of the common reasons for yellowing leaves in pelargonium is that the pot is too small for the measles system. Transplant the flower into a pot with a slightly larger diameter (but too spacious is also not advisable);
The plant may be affected by a fungal disease. Mycosis often causes yellowing of leaf blades;
The appearance of small yellowish spots on the leaves is a sign of possible pest damage. Carefully inspect the leaves (using a magnifying glass) and treat with an appropriate insecticide if pests are found.
Old orchid leaves turn yellow, dry out and die. In different species different terms'life' of leaves. For example, phalaenopsis leaves change within 2-3 years, and the lower ones begin to turn yellow and die annually. Dendrobium nobile leaves turn yellow every year and fall off after the flowering period;
Active stimulation with nitrogenous fertilizers. This is often done by unscrupulous flower sellers who overfeed the orchid to make it look brighter. But after a while the flower will be severely depleted, all the leaves will turn yellow and wither. Therefore, you need to immediately replant the plant after purchase;
Insufficient amount of potassium in the fertilizer. The plant begins to actively use the ‘reserves’ of the mineral from old yellowed leaves, after which the yellowness spreads to the young ones;
Bacterial spotting. This bacterial disease leads to a decrease in turgor, the appearance of oozing cankers and yellowness on the leaves;
Pests such as spider mites and whitefly larvae leave yellowish spots on the leaves, damaging and sucking the juices of the orchid.
In summer, pale yellow spots from sunburn may appear if drops of water remain after watering;
A natural phenomenon is yellowing and falling of leaves after 2 years;
Low room temperature. Turgor decreases, leaves turn yellow and dry out at the end. Then Dieffenbachia sheds its leaves;
Low air humidity, dryness. The leaves wither and turn yellow, the tips dry out;
Spider mite. It often affects the plant, leaving many small yellow spots.
— photo: yellowed Dieffenbachia leaves
¦ WHY DO SPATHIPHYLLUM LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
Natural reasons. After the flowering period, the plant is exhausted and gets rid of some old leaves to restore it. The leaves turn yellow and fall off, the dormant period of spathiphyllum begins;
The lower leaves of domestic yucca turn yellow and dry out for natural reasons. Gradually they fall off, and the upper young ones form a ‘palm’ crown;
Long intervals between waterings in summer. If the substrate constantly dries out at the root level, then during the growing season the leaves turn yellow and wither;
Dry air during the heating season. if the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, then you need to spray the palm tree more often and place a jar of water next to the pot;
¦ WHY DO THE LEAVES OF ZAMIOCULCAS TURN YELLOW?
Strong temperature changes and constant drafts also cause yellowing of the leaves of Zamioculcas;
Pests appear on fleshy leaves - spider mites or thrips. The presence of pests can be determined by small yellowish spots scattered on the outer surface of the leaf.
¦ WHY DO CYCLAMEN LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
A common cause is waterlogging of the soil. Too frequent and abundant watering leads to yellowing of the leaves and wilting. Remove such leaves, reduce the number of waterings, pour out all the water from the pan;
Pests (thrips, whitefly larvae, spider mites). Leaves small yellowish spots.
¦ WHY DO ANTHURIUM LEAVES TURN YELLOW?
Natural causes are yellowing and falling of old leaves. This is a gradual process - 1-2 lower leaves fall off and are replaced by young ones;
Lighting. When exposed to direct sunlight, yellow spots appear, and in poor lighting, the leaves turn yellow and fall off;
The pot is too deep. The roots rot, the turgor of the leaves deteriorates and they turn yellow;
Hard, unsettled water. If you use tap water for irrigation without standing it, yellowness appears on the leaves;
Chlorosis. A lack of magnesium or iron in the soil can lead to yellowing of the leaves ‘ Male Happiness’ while the veins remain greenish;
Fungal diseases (fusarium, septoria and anthracnose). With fusarium, the leaf becomes deformed in one direction and the plastic turns yellow. With septoria and anthracnose, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
If in our latitudes you come across a bush with a fragrant foam of white flowers, do not rush to call it jasmine - it does not grow here. Mock orange, an unpretentious shrub from the hydrangea family, is often confused with the southern beauty. Many of its species have a heady aroma, which is why mock orange, along with roses and lilacs, has been the main decoration of Russian gardens since ancient times.
The genus and its representatives
Olga Nikitina
Rod Chubushnik ( Philadelphus) belongs to the hydrangea family and has about 50 species native to Western Europe, eastern Asia and North America.
These are deciduous shrubs, mainly with an oval crown and straight shoots, branching only in the upper part. The leaves are ovate-lanceolate, opposite, light green, lemon yellow in autumn or remain green until they fall. They bloom after complete foliation, at which time white or creamy-white fragrant, or less often odorless, flowers appear at the ends of the shoots, collected in racemose inflorescences. The fruit is a capsule with small seeds.
The plant has very hard wood, and its hollow shoots were used to make smoking pipes, which explains its name.
Mock oranges grow successfully and bloom profusely in well-lit areas and in partial shade. True, they are considered shade-tolerant shrubs, since under natural conditions they are found in the undergrowth of broad-leaved and coniferous-deciduous forests.
Most species and varieties of mock orange prefer fertile soils with sufficient moisture. They tolerate temporary drought well; after watering, the turgor of the leaves is quickly restored. The only thing they cannot come to terms with is saline soils.
This breed is propagated by seeds (most often species mock oranges, with flowering occurring after 5–8 years) and vegetatively (by root suckers, layering, cuttings, dividing bushes). To preserve decorative characteristics, especially valuable varieties are propagated by summer (semi-lignified) cuttings, which are cut during or before flowering. Then they are planted on special beds or in cold greenhouses for rooting.
When planting mock oranges, you need to adhere to the following parameters: in group plantings, the distance between plants should be 0.5-1.5 m, and in a single-row hedge - 0.5 m. To avoid rotting of the root collar, it should not be deepened by more than 2-3 cm.
The best soil mixture for growing these shrubs is a soil mixture consisting of leaf soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 3: 2: 1, the optimal soil acidity is pH 6.5–7.5.
As a rule, all mock oranges have a great shoot-forming ability, so the bushes become very dense over the years, which weakens flowering. Experts recommend periodically thinning out old bushes (for this, the weakest and oldest shoots are cut to the ground), as well as promptly removing faded inflorescences. This crown rejuvenation leads to strong growth new shoots and more abundant flowering.
In addition to pruning, care also includes watering and fertilizing (mineral and organic fertilizers). As organic fertilizers Apply slurry (1: 10) at the rate of one bucket for each bush once a year. Mineral fertilizers(15 g of urea and potassium sulfate, 30 g of superphosphate) are diluted in 10 liters of water and applied to one or two plants in the third year after planting. Mock orange is demanding of moisture, in June–July trunk circle Two or three buckets of water should be poured per 1 m2. Young plants require more frequent and abundant watering during dry periods.
Mock oranges are highly decorative and very resistant shrubs; thanks to their abundant and exquisite flowering, they are very popular in landscaping, be it a city park or country cottage area. Their species and varietal diversity allows you to create wonderful fragrant compositions that bloom for two months.
Most species and varieties of mock orange prefer fertile soils with sufficient moisture. They tolerate temporary drought well, but cannot tolerate saline soils.
The most common and most winter-hardy species is h. coronal (Ph. coronarius), up to 3 m high, with a rounded-ovoid crown. Homeland - the south of Western Europe, cultivated almost everywhere from Arkhangelsk to the southern borders former Union and in Western Siberia.
Very similar to the previous look h. pale, or ordinary(Ph. pallidus), naturally growing in the same region as the previous species. A shrub up to 3 m high, with a dense, oval crown, blooms quite early - in the first ten days of June. But the earliest and longest flowering (up to 25 days) in the Moscow region is demonstrated by Part Schrenk (Ph.schrenkii), its flowers bloom at the end of May. Distributed in the forests of China and Korea, as well as in the Amur basin. It has hairy shoots and pubescent pedicels. The flowers have a strong aroma that intensifies in the evening.
Early flowering is characterized by h. small-leaved (Ph.microphyllus). This low shrub (up to 1.5 m) with small, graceful leaves is valued for its delicate pineapple aroma. From North America, very popular in culture, was used by the French breeder Lemoine to breed undersized varieties.
Gordon's mock orange (Ph.gordonianus) is one of the tallest species, can reach a height of up to 5 m, also a representative of the North American flora. Valued for its annual very abundant flowering, although its flowers have a weak aroma.
Chubushnik Leviza(Ph. Lewisii) is attractive with a spherical crown and spectacular flowering. Flowers up to 5 cm in diameter are collected in large racemes. Naturally grows in the forests of North America - from British Columbia to California.
Found in mixed forests of the Far East h. thin-leaved (Ph.tenuifolius). A shrub up to 2.5 m high, white, slightly fragrant, pure white flowers are collected in racemose inflorescences of 3–7 pieces.
Widely used in culture Part Caucasian (Ph.caucasicus), naturally growing in the forests of the Caucasus and reaching a height of up to 3 m. The leaves are bright green, creamy, highly fragrant flowers are collected in short dense racemes located at the ends of the shoots. Fast-growing, frost-resistant, undemanding shrub.
It is considered one of the most fragrant and profusely flowering species. part Lemoine (Ph.x lemoinei), which is a hybrid of common ch. and small-leaved ch. This shrub, up to 3 m high, has large, up to 4 cm, white, highly fragrant flowers, collected in racemose inflorescences. It has many varieties that are widely used in green building.
Gorgeous spreading bushes up to 5 m high form h. greyish (Ph. incanus). It received this name for its densely pubescent buds and the underside of the leaves. Simple pure white fragrant flowers are collected in gracefully curved loose racemes.
Very impressive including grandiflora (Ph. grandiflorus) grows naturally in eastern North America. During flowering, it is decorated with large white, up to 5 cm, odorless flowers. Widely used in landscaping in southern and central Russia.
Flowering time depending on the species and variety is from late May to early August.
Common mock orange 
Schrenk's mock orange 
Mock orange Lemoine 
Mock orange Lemoine 
Chubushnik Leviza
Mock orange diseases
Ella Sokolova,
Mock orange is one of the most disease resistant woody plants. It has a very small number of pathogens compared to other breeds of different origins, mainly mushroom. Diseases of leaves, trunks and branches during high level lesions lead to a decrease in the decorative value of the bush.
Leaf diseases
Powdery mildew (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllactiniaguttata). In July, a white cobwebby coating of mycelium (mycelium) with sporulation appears on the underside of the leaves. The spores re-infect young leaves until the end of summer. Over time, the plaque disappears or remains in the form of round spots. By the end of July, fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the mycelium, noticeable in the form of scattered small black dots. They persist in winter on fallen, infected leaves. In the spring, spores ripen in them, which produce primary infection of the leaves.
Brown spot (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllostictacoronata). In the second half of summer, separate, rarely merging light brown spots with a white border appear on both sides of the leaves. On the upper side of the spots, sporulation of the fungus forms in the form of small scattered brown dots.
Gray spot (the causative agent is a fungus AscochytaPhiladelphia). In July, large round ash-gray spots form on the upper side of the leaves. Sporulation of the fungus develops on the spots, looking like small brown dots located in concentric circles.
Blackish olive spot (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllostictavulgaris). In early July, round spots appear on both sides of the leaves, initially blackish-olive, later brown with a black border. On the upper side of the spots, sporulation of the fungus forms in the form of small black dotted tubercles.
By the end of July, fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the mycelium, noticeable in the form of scattered small black dots. They persist in winter on fallen, infected leaves.
Diseases of trunks and branches
Tubercular (nectria) necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Tuberculariavulgaris). The cortex and vascular system are affected. In the thickness of the dying and dead bark, mycelium formations are formed - stromas protruding from cracks in the bark in the form of pink, pinkish-red, brick-red, often darkening to dark brown, rounded pads with a diameter of 1-3 mm. Fungal spores develop on the stroma, which infect the shoots during the growing season.
Diplodia necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Diplodia philadelphia). Local or circular necrosis with reddish-brown bark forms on trunks and branches. In the thickness of the affected bark, sporulation of the pathogen is formed in the form of numerous scattered black tubercles protruding from cracks in the bark.
Hendersonia necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Hendersonia coronaria). The bark in the affected areas darkens, but is clearly distinguished from the healthy one. In the thickness of the cortex, sporulation of the pathogen is formed in the form of numerous small brown scattered or crowded tubercles protruding from breaks in the periderm.
Microdiploid necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Microdiplodiamicrosporella). The affected bark becomes red-brown in color. In the thickness of the bark, sporulation of the fungus develops in the form of small black crowded tubercles protruding from cracks in the periderm.
Bacterial necrosis (the causative agent is a bacterium Pseudomonassyringae). In spring, brown, moist necrotic areas in the form of spots form on young shoots. The affected bark and phloem rot. In the spring and autumn, spots of dead bast spread to the outer layers of wood, which, like the bark, turns brown and dies. Individual necrotic spots often merge, ringing the branches and causing their death. Watery, translucent spots of irregular shape appear on the leaves of the affected shoots, which darken over time, dry out and fall out.
To protect mock orange from diseases, a set of measures is carried out:
- systematic surveillance of the emergence and spread of diseases during the growing season, when signs of infectious diseases clearly appear;
- selection for planting of plants that do not have signs of disease on the shoots (change in bark color, sporulation, humidity);
- timely pruning of affected shoots with their immediate removal and destruction;
- destruction of fallen leaves or autumn spraying in order to eliminate sources of infection of powdery mildew and spotting.
Mock orange pests
Tamara Galaseva,Candidate of Agricultural Sciences
Only four types of pests are known on various types of mock orange, the occurrence and harmfulness of which varies greatly. All of them are polyphages that damage other species of trees and even herbaceous plants, and feed on leaves and non-lignified shoots.
Sucking insects and mites
Sucking pests suck out juices from leaves and thin shoots. On mock oranges you can find beet or bean aphids more often than others - Aphis fabae, sometimes incorrectly called jasmine aphid - Aphis Philadelphia. Aphids are broadly ovoid, 1.8–2.5 mm long, brown, black or greenish with a slightly noticeable waxy coating. In spring and early summer, aphids live and feed on mock orange and other shrubs (euonymus and viburnum), on which two or three generations are raised. In the second half of summer, they move to herbaceous plants (beets, poppy, beans, sunflowers, potatoes and many others) where up to 10 generations of aphids develop. In the fall (September), they again fly to the mock orange (the primary host) and lay eggs at the base of the buds. Due to damage, mock orange leaves curl, petioles and shoots become bent.
When aphids multiply massively, the leaves of the bush become covered with honeydew (sticky sugary secretions of aphids), on which sooty fungi develop, which reduces the decorativeness of the plants.
In some years, colonies of common spider mites can suck the juices from leaves and non-lignified shoots of mock oranges. Tetranychus turkestanica. Damaged leaves on the shoot become covered with a thin web and gradually turn yellow. Mite colonies multiply on the underside of leaves, under the web. The insects are very small, 0.5–0.6 mm long, colorless or light green. The defeat of mock orange is observed in the second half of summer, at the end of July - August. An increase in air temperature at this time is favorable for tick reproduction and promotes the development large number generations (up to 10). Before wintering, the color of the females changes to red. Only females hibernate. under fallen leaves and other plant debris, as well as in bark cracks and other secluded places.
An increase in air temperature at this time is favorable for the reproduction of spider mites.
Leaf-eating insects
The larvae and adults of the beetles gnaw holes of various shapes in the leaves or eat them completely, sometimes leaving only the veins intact.
Mock orange leaves are sometimes eaten from the edges by weevils of the genus Phyllobius. They are small, 5–7 mm long, the surface of the body is almost completely covered with light green scales with a metallic tint. Beetles actively feed on leaves and many other tree species in spring and early summer. The larvae of these weevils live in the soil and gnaw the roots of various types of herbal plants.
Very rarely, in the southern regions of the country, mock orange leaves are eaten by hawk moth caterpillars. (Acherontia atrops) . The larvae (caterpillars) of this species of hawkmoth are naked, lemon-yellow in color, with blue oblique stripes converging on the back at an acute angle. The caterpillar's body is covered with sticky black and blue dots. At the end of the body on the dorsal side, like most hawk moths, there is a horn in the shape of the letter “C”. The caterpillars of this hawkmoth also feed on the leaves of herbaceous plants of the nightshade family: belladonna (belladonna), wolfberry, oak, poppy, etc. The hawkmoth received its name because of the pattern of scales and hairs on the back of the butterfly, reminiscent of a skull.
Due to damage by aphids, mock orange shoots become bent, leaves curl, and when the pest multiplies massively, they become covered with honeydew, on which sooty fungi develop.
Mock orange in landscaping
Olga Nikitina
Everyone who is even slightly interested in gardening knows the exquisite aroma of mock orange. In addition, this plant is known for its numerous species and garden hybrids that can charm even the most discerning connoisseurs.
Usage
Very often, mock orange is called garden jasmine for the rich aroma of white flowers, similar to the smell of blooming tropical jasmine.
Mock oranges are widely used in urban landscaping; they tolerate smoke, dust and air pollution well. In parks and squares they can be seen in single and group plantings, as well as in hedges. Small species used in borders and mixborders. Dwarf varieties suitable for rockeries and slides. Mock orange can play an important and even leading role in creating white gardens, which is facilitated by the variety of crown shapes, color and texture of leaves, sizes and shades of inflorescences.
Others will be suitable as partners for mock oranges beautiful flowering shrubs, such as spirea, rose hips, weigels, lilacs. Interesting and spectacular compositions are obtained with pink-flowered apple trees blooming in May and early flowering species and varieties of mock orange. A yellow-leaved variety h. coronary ‘ Aure A' will be a bright accent in joint landing with green-leaved mock oranges and a wonderful companion to flowering lilac bushes.
The species and varietal diversity of mock oranges makes it possible to create an exquisite aromatic collection from these wonderful plants, taking into account their flowering dates. The very first to bloom at the end of May h. Schrenk, in the first ten days of June they begin to bloom Part Caucasian, h. pale, h. coronal, h. small-leaved. Flowering of late-flowering species begins in late June - early July and ends in early August. These include Part Magdalene, including grandiflora, odorless, part Lemoine, h. fluffy. If you add their varieties to the list of mock orange species, you will get a wonderful collection of fragrant, beautifully flowering shrubs.
When we talk about lilacs, we definitely remember Leonid Alekseevich Kolesnikov (not to be confused with A.I. Kolesnikov, a dendrologist, author of the famous textbook “Decorative Dendrology”), who created a huge number of unique varieties that have received worldwide recognition. But the greatest expert on chubushniks was Nikolai Kuzmich Vekhov. A well-known Soviet scientist, breeder and dendrologist, he headed the Lipetsk Experimental Breeding Station for thirty years and is the author of winter-hardy varieties of mock orange. His famous monograph Jasmines, published in 1952, is still very popular.
Russia can be proud of its domestic varieties, the best of which are considered to be mock orange varieties selected by N.K. Vekhova. He obtained abundantly flowering and, most importantly, winter-hardy varieties by seed from varietal Lemoine. As a result of hybridization and subsequent selection, Vekhov created numerous varieties, such as ‘Snow Avalanche’, ‘Moon Light’, ‘Ballet Motylkov’, ‘Pompon’, ‘Akademik Komarov’, ‘Airborne Landing’, ‘Arctic’ and many others.
Mock oranges tolerate smoke, dust and air pollution well.
Types and varieties
Among the abundant flowering varieties mock orange varieties of Vekhovo selection include non-flowering low-growing varieties - 'Dwarf' And 'Dwarf'. The breeder recommended using them as “green buttons” that “fasten” the lawn to the ground, as well as for creating low curbs, requiring almost no haircut.
Many types of mock orange and their varieties are quite winter-hardy and feel great in central Russia. Currently, Russian garden centers offer a variety of planting material these bushes. But you need to be extremely careful when choosing one or another variety, especially of foreign origin.
It is no secret that in severe winters, even winter-hardy species and varieties freeze to the level of snow cover. But since these plants have a powerful root system, the frostbitten bush quickly recovers after pruning the damaged shoots. Worse is less winter-hardy species and varieties, because their root system can also freeze.
Along with with the coronal part used in landscaping h. pale, but its varieties are of particular interest:
‘ Flore Plena ’ - with luxurious double flowers.
‘ Grandiflora ’ – with flowers up to 5 cm in diameter.
‘ Salicifolia ’ - with original narrow lanceolate leaves, similar to willow.
‘ Pumila ’ – shrub up to 50 cm high.
In landscape design, hybrids of the famous French breeder Lemoine are especially popular. Among them there are many varieties that have proven themselves well in conditions middle zone Russia:
‘ Alabastrite ’ – an upright growing shrub up to 2 m high. Large, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, semi-double snow-white flowers are collected in inflorescences of 7–9 pieces.
‘ Dame Blanche ’ - a shrub 1 m high and a crown diameter of 1.5 m; during flowering it is decorated with white fragrant flowers. Dark green leaves turn yellow in autumn.
‘ Erectus ’ - a spreading shrub with a crown height and diameter of up to 2 m. Simple white flowers have a strong, pleasant aroma. For planting it requires places well protected from the wind.
‘ Mont Blanc ’ - a shrub up to 1.8 m high with rather large leaves. Graceful semi-double pure white flowers have a strong aroma.
Lemoine varieties with two-tone flower colors are very impressive and original: ‘ Belle Etoile ’ , ‘ Bicolore ’ , ‘ Beauclerk ’ . They have fairly large white flowers (up to 5.5 cm in diameter) with a pink-purple center and long yellow stamens. Unfortunately, these exquisite varieties are not very frost-resistant, and they can only be recommended for cultivation in the southern regions.
North American species odorless reaches a height of 3 m, is distinguished by green shoots and large leaves up to 7 cm long. Its variety is magnificent ‘ Grandiflorus ’ 4 m high with large, up to 6 cm in diameter, white flowers, but, unfortunately, odorless. This variety has a long flowering period - up to 30 days.
Russia can be proud of its domestic varieties, the best of which are considered to be mock orange varieties selected by N.K. Vekhova.
Medicinal properties of mock orange
Marina Kulikova, Candidate of Biological Sciences
The medicinal and cosmetic properties of mock orange are still not very well studied; there is little information about them. But it is true that its smell can give you a headache and upset your heart.
From flowers and even leaves Many types of mock orange extract fragrant essential oil. Its flowers contain only 0.1–0.18% essential oil, the main component of which is anthranilic acid methyl ester. 7-hydroxycoumarin and 8-methoxycoumarin are also found in the plant.
Philadelphus tenuifolius), which is common in the Far East. Flowers and roots are used for medicinal purposes. The leaves and fruits of mock orange contain flavonoids. An infusion of flowers helps with neurosis, neurasthenia, and is used as a diuretic. A decoction of the roots is useful for hemorrhoids.
It is better to collect mock orange flowers in the morning in dry weather, since they begin to open at dawn and at this time contain the greatest amount of essential oils. Immediately after picking, the flowers must be dried in the shade or in the oven at a temperature not exceeding +40 ºС.
Recipes
Infusion of flowers: 2 tsp. Pour a glass of boiling water over dried flowers, leave for 1-2 hours, strain. Take 1/4 cup 3 times a day before meals.
Root decoction: 1 tbsp. l. crushed dry roots, pour 2 glasses of water, boil for 3-4 minutes, leave for 2 hours. Take 2 tbsp. l. 3–4 times a day. The decoction can be used for baths for hemorrhoids.
The most commonly used in folk medicine is the thin-leaved mock orange ( Philadelphus tenuifolius), which is common in the Far East.
The genus Jasmine (Jasminum) unites upright or climbing shrubs of the Olive family. They are densely branched plants with simple, odd-pinnate or trifoliate leaves and large, very beautiful flowers. The separate corolla of jasmine flowers is white, reddish or yellow. The tube of most is narrow and long; it contains 2 stamens with rather short filaments. The superior ovary is formed. The fruit is a berry.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The genus Jasmine (Jasminum L.) unites, according to various sources, from 210 to 300 species of plants of the Olive family. In nature, they are common in the subtropics and tropics of Asia, Australia, Africa, South America and the Mediterranean.
Jasmines are deciduous or evergreen shrubs, less commonly vines. On their numerous shoots, trifoliate or odd-pinnate leaves are arranged alternately and oppositely.
When flowering, jasmine forms single or umbrella-shaped inflorescences. They can be at the top and on the sides of the shoots. White or yellow flowers look like small stars and last up to 20 days. As the petals fade, they acquire a purple or reddish tint. The white, yellow or pink corolla looks like a saucer, the tube is cylindrical, with an open mouth.
Selection has produced many double and semi-double forms.
The following types of jasmine are grown at home and in gardens. Bees jasmine (Jasminum beesianum Forrest & Diels) is an evergreen shrub or vine up to 2 m long. There are grooves along all the shoots. Dark green, simple, slightly pubescent leaves grow opposite. They are lanceolate or ovoid in shape, slightly pointed. Bees jasmine blooms in May. Flowers are formed at the top of the shoots in groups of 1-3 pieces. Their color is pink or dark pink. They have a pleasant aroma.
Holoflowered jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum Lindl.) is a not very branching shrub with drooping long shoots, practically not covered with foliage. The bright green small trifoliate leaves mostly fall off in the winter. Large, egg-yellow flowers of naked jasmine are formed from January to April in the axils of leaves located along the entire stem. Grandiflorum jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum L.) is a species created by man. It is an evergreen shrub or vine, reaching 10 m in length, with bare shoots. Its pinnate leaves are arranged oppositely and consist of 5-7 elliptical or rounded-elliptic leaflets with a point at the top. Large flowers are laid in groups of up to 10 pieces at the top of the shoots. Inflorescences are umbrellas. Most often they are white and fragrant. This jasmine blooms profusely and for a long time (almost all summer and half of autumn). Its flowers are used as a flavoring for tea.
Officinalis jasmine (Jasminum officinale L.) - medium-sized perennial shrub with smooth, long, thin, climbing shoots. Its pointed, lanceolate, smooth leaves are light green on the underside and bright green on top. Their edges are ciliated. Jasmine officinalis blooms in April. Its flowers are white, on long stalks, and fragrant. They are combined in several pieces into umbrella inflorescences. Shrub up to 2 m tall, multi-flowered jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum Franch.) is a weakly branching plant with rather curly shoots and oval leaves, pointed at the top. These dark green leaves, slightly wavy along the edges, are arranged alternately. During flowering, jasmine multiflorum forms a huge number of pink buds, collected at the top of the shoots, 3-5 pieces in groups. They have a fairly narrow tube and a bend with 5 blades. The flowers are very fragrant.
Low or bare jasmine (J. humile L. var. glabrum (DC.) Kobuski) is a not very tall (up to 2 m) shrub with bare shoots and trifoliate leaves, consisting of 5-7 elliptical or ovate leaves. The foliage color is dark green on top and light green on the underside. Umbrella inflorescences form and bloom from June to August and consist of several fragrant flowers. Their corolla is yellow. 
Turned or low jasmine (J. humile L. var. revolutum (Sims) Stokes) is a small bush with compound leaves consisting of 5-7 ovate-rounded leaves. During flowering, averted jasmine forms a multi-flowered inflorescence of medium-sized yellow flowers.
Jasmine sambac or Arabian (J. sambac (L.) Aiton) is an evergreen vine up to 6 m in length with thin pubescent shoots. Its long, ovate leaves, rounded at the base, grow oppositely. They may be slightly pubescent or naked. White flowers of Arabian jasmine are collected in small groups into umbrella inflorescences. They can be terry, semi-double or simple, but always with a pleasant smell. Abundant flowering of this jasmine can last from March to October. Highly valued for its decorative qualities.
The finest jasmine (J. gracillimum Hook. f.) may be evergreen shrub or a liana. It is distinguished by thin, pubescent shoots with simple, oval-lanceolate leaves pointed at the apex. They are light green, slightly pubescent on the underside, and arranged oppositely. The finest jasmine blooms abundantly, occurring in the second half of winter - the beginning of spring. Its large white fragrant flowers form umbrella-like inflorescences.
Sometimes jasmines are mistakenly called mock orange (saxifrage family). It also has white flowers with a pleasant aroma, but all other signs point to a different family. The main purpose of jasmine when grown at home is to decorate the garden and room. It is used both as a hanging and as a climbing flowering plant.
CARE Location and lighting
Jasmine loves light, but prefers its diffuse forms. Therefore, western and eastern windows are best suited for him. On a south window, to avoid burns, it is better to shade the plant during the midday hours. When grown with a north orientation, jasmine may not receive enough light to grow and bloom properly.
The plant can safely spend summer outdoors on the balcony or in the garden in any place protected from direct sun. If you need to change the light level for jasmine, you need to do it gradually, maintaining an adaptation period. Temperature is not a critical factor for the plant. It can easily tolerate 18-25 degrees during activity and 8-10 degrees during rest.
If you keep it during a warmer winter, the plant may not bloom at all this year. All efforts will be spent on the formation of green mass. To avoid air stagnation, regularly ventilate the room with the plant. Watering In spring and summer, water the plant abundantly as soon as the soil on top dries out. With the beginning of autumn, watering is reduced, bringing it to a minimum in winter. During cold wintering, it is very easy to overwater the plant, causing stagnation of water. When caring for jasmine, it is better to water with soft (rain, melt or settled) warm water.
Humidity Jasmine grows best in fairly humid air. Therefore, it should be sprayed regularly. It is better to use soft and settled water for this. There is only one limitation for spraying jasmine: it cannot be done during the flowering period. During this period, it is better to place trays with wet sand or expanded clay under the pots. In winter, when kept cold, spraying can destroy the plant.
Soil and replanting
At home, young jasmines are replanted in the spring every year, older ones - every spring or two. To do this, use ready-made soil that has the following characteristics: neutral, fairly dense soil with a high content of humus and nutrients.
You can make a mixture yourself from leaf and coniferous soils, deoxidized peat and sand. It will also do well in hydroponics. Feeding Jasmine must be fed before and during flowering. The optimal frequency is once every 7-10 days. To do this, use special complex fertilizers for flowering plants.
Reproduction
Jasmine is propagated mostly by layering or cuttings. Cuttings are harvested in spring or summer. To do this, take lignified shoots with 2-3 internodes at the ends of the branches. They are cut off sharp blade and planted in a mixture of peat and sand. With lower heating, the cuttings take root quite quickly (1-1.5 months). Then they are transplanted into separate containers in the soil for adult jasmines.
When the roots entwine the soil, transshipment is done. Other The lower part of the bush becomes woody over time, and the upper, thinner shoots begin to need support. Then they are sent along a trellis or tied to something. To extend the flowering time of jasmine, pinch the plant, leaving 6-8 pairs of leaves on the shoot. In February, long shoots are shortened by a third. Dry, weak and underdeveloped branches inside the bush are cut out.
If, when grown at home, jasmine is quite large and blooms profusely, then it is better to take it outside, otherwise the strong aroma of the flowers can cause a headache.
GROWING PROBLEMS, DISEASES, PESTS
Problems with foliage (leaves dry, curl, become deformed or fall off) most often arise due to insufficient air humidity, poor watering or exposure to direct sunlight. Move the plant to a shaded area, adjust watering and spraying.
If the jasmine has buds, but does not want to bloom, then the plant does not have enough light. And if they suddenly begin to darken, this indicates that the air is too warm and dry.
Among the pests, jasmine can be attacked by aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites or whiteflies. Use appropriate drugs against them.
