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The oven is rude and the source of a fair amount of confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not an established term. In Western and, partly, in South Slavic languages, rude is either simply a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for summer kitchen for 150-200 bricks. Well, according to acc. When searching on the Russian Internet, Dutch, Swedish, bathhouse (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. appear. You can even find statements that say that there was once an outstanding stove designer, Grub.
In fact, a stove with a rough, or simply rough, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, separate from the stove according to the heat cycle, but combined technologically, i.e. they are built together (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there cannot be a bell housing - heating shields for stoves are always ducted. A do-it-yourself rough oven is easier to build than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rude buildings are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where there is some excess fuel consumption in absolute and in monetary terms Doesn't break the budget.
Note: a heating and cooking unit made of brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob – 1200-1350, – 1800-2000, – 2500-3500 bricks.
Varieties
A do-it-yourself stove can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the stove, and then in appearance it is indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in Fig. The rough-slab is compact, least material-intensive, lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great strain. Therefore, rough slabs are installed mostly in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if it load bearing capacity not less than 500 kgf/sq. m.
A rough structure with an attached shield (item 2) is structurally more complex and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. A wood-burning grub with an attached shield can develop up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. Current circuit flue gases in rough form with a shield is given in pos. 3; This is how the popular Galanka stove was built. However, you need to know that there is no point in building a furnace with more than 3 revolutions: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during construction it will be necessary to pay special attention to some of the features of rough stoves, the consideration of which is devoted to a significant part of the article.
Note: wood burning can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is not advisable to heat such a stove with coal; the stove will overheat.
Why is it rude - rude
Visually, a rough stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later added shield due to the integrity of the structure (item 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complex and requires fairly deep knowledge of heating engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a grub because its combustion (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately and then “molded” together according to the pairing rules building structures taking into account the requirements of heating engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because the interaction of the thermal cycles of the fire part and the shield is not taken into account, and it is by taking it into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, If you live in an area with a harsh climate, a rude stove may only make sense for you as a seasonal stove for temporary use.
Firebox, shield and chimney
The main differences from a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the firebox. The tooth traps hot gases under hob, which in a summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In the rough it is not needed, because excess heat will be used for heating.
A rough stove should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with increased draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool. Their thermal energy will turn into mechanical energy, which will successfully fly out into the chimney. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield operates on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This is what explains special requirements rough to the firebox and stove fittings, see below.
Shields
Depending on the purpose of the rough heating panels, they are made different types. Diagrams of heating panels for furnaces are shown in Fig. below; The fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.
- Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is greatest. The compactness and thermal efficiency of the stove are average. The most commonly used scheme;
- Sequential stroke with horizontal channels. The dimensions and weight of the oven are the same as before. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to install a bed, i.e. the upper channel does not heat up much;
- Sequential stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is the same as that of a shield with horizontal channels, the technological complexity is the same as that of a shield with short vertical channels. Occupies smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and good foundation(see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a home heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
- Parallel move. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Can be used with a reduced power firebox. Optimal for adding to an existing slab without altering it.
Note: There are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chessboard. The most complex, but also the lightest, have the least resistance to the flow of gases. Only possible variant for rough in a house with a heated attic, see below.
Special requirements
We repeat: the advantages are simple - compactness and the ability to build in an existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in a furnace structure of generally the same dimensions; from excessive heat load it will quickly become unusable. If special requirements are not met:
- Furnace foundation.
- Masonry mortars.
- Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
- The choice and methods of installing stove fittings.
Foundation
The design of the foundation for the rough is shown in Fig. The crushed stone cushion without sand bedding is leveled to the horizon before pouring. Pouring mortar M150 – cement M300 and sand 1:2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Don't forget to support the cut joists! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but serious mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in plan should protrude onto the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.
Note: the brick bed on the foundation under the furnace is laid out with bandaging in the rows and between the rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry for the furnace structure, see below.
Solutions
To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on lime mortar as combining sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble needs to be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. It is highly advisable to use mountain or ravine sand with rough grains for clay mortar. Ordinary clay - purchased from the oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is of little use for coarse masonry.
Masonry
For rough masonry, stove bricks and, if the order (see below) is provided for, fireclay bricks are used; red worker is of the highest quality - light red in color (fully annealed), without burn marks, distortion and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly carried out following the trail. rules:
- If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in cutting/chipping bricks are eliminated.
- Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. You can’t dump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
- A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the base of the brick being laid.
- The brick being laid is laid with a smooth movement, slightly tilted, and moved towards the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
- The brick is pressed until the seam comes together to 3 mm; You can't knock!
- Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
- The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
- Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
- The recesses in the seams found after removing excess mortar are filled with mortar by pressing without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!
Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:
Video: laying a heating and cooking stove
Accessories
Fittings and grates for roughing require cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with eyes for straight lugs (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in Fig. on the right, in the rough it is impossible; This is not according to stove rules at all. For a Dutch country house with 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, it may be fine, but not for a rough one.
It is necessary, firstly, to crimp the mustache (galvanized wire 2-3 mm) with a twist so that it does not move. Press lightly at first, place it on desired angle(from the far end of the mustache to inside masonry must remain at least 12 mm). Then tighten carefully and shake the door/latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories into the oven.
Video: installing the oven door
Video: grates and stove
Design examples
The figure below shows the order of a simple rough wood for a seasonal dacha or temporarily inhabited house. A special feature is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without in rough wood, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and, if it is already warm enough outside, it prevents the stove from overheating the room while cooking.
On the trail. rice. – the arrangement of a single-burner hob is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This is an option more suitable for a hunting lodge or a summer cottage where weekends are spent in winter.
Next in Fig. – arrangement of the house heating and cooking system with switching to winter and summer operation (two-way). This stove is quite complex, but quite economical both in winter and summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.
On the trail. rice. – order and drawings of a heating stove (firebox door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rug is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment, the front faces the living room and the rear opens into 2 rooms adjacent to it; the partition between them is located on the back side (back) of the stove. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.
Now - in Fig. Below is a rough diagram and order of the stove bench: a cooking area in the kitchen/hallway with a bathroom; bed - in the living room. This is already quite complex design for an experienced stove maker. For heating in warm weather, the bed is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen/hallway will have to be kept wide open, because... switching to summer speed is not provided.
And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional panel with staggered channels is located (in the inset below on the right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if the firebox door is made of glass. It is 2-way; ZLH in the drawings is a summer valve.
About chimneys
The chimney for rough must meet all the rules fire safety. Here it is only necessary to note that best chimney for coarse - sandwich, because it also does not require additional capital construction work.
Finally
If this is your first oven (which is quite possible), do not rush to build, model it on the table first. Suddenly you have a little extra money - you can buy a set for modeling stoves with layout diagrams and plastic bricks to scale, they sell these. No – bricks can also be cut to scale from foam plastic. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.
Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in houses. They acted as the main component of any rural house. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.
Even if the house has a heating system running on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on at full power on autumn days when the house becomes cool. In this case, a stove will help ensure a comfortable microclimate in your home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and your home will quickly become warm.
If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness, since the stove is built with the expectation that it will last for decades. It doesn’t matter whether you build a heating stove with your own hands or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.
Speaking about stoves, we note that they are divided into structures for single and two-story houses. The main difference between them is the height. The structure being built may have a slab or be used only for heating. In the second case, the slab in it is like compound element absent. The height of a do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the design. Next, we will look in detail at how to build a stove with your own hands in a private house.
Materials for masonry
Calculation of materials is extremely important point when laying a stove with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop oven we are looking at in this article typically measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its highest point to ceiling first floor at 2.1 m.
Before you start building a stove with your own hands, need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities that will be used in its construction. During the work you will need:
- red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pcs.;
- sand-lime brick for the construction of a firebox, 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
- sand - 80-100 buckets;
- clay – 200 kg;
- corner 50x50 mm and 40x40 mm;
- steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
- a metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
- roofing felt -3 m;
- asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
- material for wall insulation.
The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:
- sand;
- cement;
- fittings;
- crushed stone;
- boards for formwork.
In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a stove with your own hands, which can be used for heating your home and cooking, you will need to purchase cast iron parts:
- grate - 1 pc.;
- hob with two burners - 1 piece;
- valves - 3 pcs.;
- two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower, 1 pc. each;
- cleaning doors - 5 pcs.
After the materials have been prepared and the builder has them at his disposal necessary tools, you can move on to the active phase of work.
Foundation
Accepting the fact that the structure being built has a large mass, when constructing a foundation with your own hands deepen it no less than 80 cm. However, when carrying out foundation work, the climatic features of the area of residence, as well as the depth of freezing, should be taken into account. You can find out about this from local builders. Taking into account all these points, a stove built with your own hands according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.
The pit for the foundation being constructed must have a square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands, using hand tools- a shovel.
After completion of the excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at the bottom a sand cushion is arranged, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which after laying it needs to be compacted, and then install the formwork. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.
Pouring the foundation for the future furnace is carried out in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. The top layer must be filled with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, hardening of the foundation should take a long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise a stove built with your own hands, even in accordance with the selected scheme, will not last long. A crack in the foundation will require repairs.
When the base of the oven with the stove has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with waterproofing material– three layers of roofing felt. The first brick laying with your own hands will be done further on it.
Compared to a fireplace, the design of a stove with your own hands is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.
Due to the fact that the area of the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After this, you can proceed to laying the first row.
If a vertical layout of rows is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size- 13 × 13 centimeters.
The sequential layout scheme for a heating and cooking furnace assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, its layout should include a blower chamber. When laying the second row begins, a blower door is installed, which is wrapped with asbestos cord before being installed in the opening intended for it.
When installing the door, a wire is wound around it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.
When they reach the fourth row of the furnace, holes are marked on it for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth stage, the firebox grate is laid. When constructing the firebox wall and its threshold, it is permissible to use sand-lime brick.
The combustion door is installed on the sixth row. It, just like the blower, is wrapped with asbestos cord.
From 6 to 10 rows you need Special attention pay attention to the shape of the holes that will ensure air movement inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos pad.
The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will lie on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.
On the 19th-20th rows of masonry, drying chamber. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.
Again metal corner laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.
The cleaning door is installed on the 25th row.
On the 30th row, two valves are installed.
All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace that goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
- installation of the chimney damper is carried out on the 27th row;
- the part of the stove installed on the second floor should have the shape of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. It is gradually replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.
An umbrella is placed on the top of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from getting inside it.
Furnace diagrams
Do-it-yourself stoves that are built in private homes can currently be divided into two groups:
- modern devices;
- outdated designs.
Building outdated structures with your own hands is not a problem. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often houses have stoves and stoves, which differ in their functionality.
If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your home or just a heating structure with your own hands, then you need to approach the task of choosing them with all seriousness. Getting to know the benefits of ovens different designs will allow you to do right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build the structure from scratch. It is enough to remodel it and you will have equipment for heating and cooking at your disposal.
To avoid mistakes during the remodeling process, you should first familiarize yourself with the video and various instructions on how professionals do this work. It is also necessary to use drawings during work. By applying the acquired knowledge, you can get good result upon completion of the work, you will have a stove with a stove, built with your own hands.
One of the common types of stoves is two-tier. If we talk about its structure, then we note that it consists of two designs- one stands on top of the other. Each part of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. When the furnace is operating, the heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal/h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal/h.
When building such a structure with your own hands, the two structures are separated from each other by masonry made of bricks with voids. This allows you to reduce the weight of the stove and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower oven, also acts as a base for the first structure.
Both the upper and the lower ovens have exactly the same design. In the case under consideration, a ductless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the underpass.
For a lower stove, the chimney runs through the top, so the heating surface is smaller. Included top structure There is a separate chimney. The process of laying it does not contain any difficult moments. The gas movement pattern is also simple. IN back wall There is a door through which the lower structure must be cleaned. Cleaning the upper structure must be done through the door located in the side wall. Either coal or anthracite can be used as fuel for a two-tier stove. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.
A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This type of overlap provides stability, and in addition makes the furnace structure as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such volume, errors must be excluded. Indeed, if they occur, repairs will be extremely difficult.
Great care should be taken in the design of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case You may experience heat leakage from the wall, which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke valves are closed.
Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel doesn't really matter either. For a country house, a self-built stove can be an ideal heating option.
A stove of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, it is 4200 kcal per hour.
One of its important parts, the firebox, has a greater height in the design of this stove. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is ensured by a special channel located under the firebox.
Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower flaps. Then they rise into the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which contains three U-shaped cavities.
The cavities are located parallel to each other. Once up, the gas will be retained in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after cooling, it will move to the front plane along the bottom. The front plane is connected to the top-type chimney. From there the gas will escape into the atmosphere.
The design of this furnace has three hoods: an upper one and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be anything. To lay out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.
Stove in the house - good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal costs. She can act as the main heating system for a home or used as additional source heat. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You can build a stove in your home yourself if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality work will allow you to get a stove that will give off heat well and will last for decades.
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Since ancient times, the construction of stoves for the home has been entrusted to stove makers who have the appropriate skills and a desire to improve their skills. High-quality masonry heating structure can be classified as a certain type of art, although building a stove with your own hands is also possible.
At the same time, it should be noted that building stoves with your own hands is now quite possible. But to do this, you should carefully study the recommendations of professionals. You will need to select the design of the heating unit and quality materials. A home craftsman who has built a stove with his own hands will have the opportunity to admire his creation for many years.
The construction of a furnace with your own hands begins with the choice of its design solution. Not all brick heating units are the same - they differ in parameters and functionality.
According to the classification, the following types of brick kilns are distinguished:
- heating structures;
- heating and cooking;
- special units.
Selection of heating design
When choosing the type of stove, owners of private houses and summer cottages first of all take into account their own material capabilities. Of course, laying a brick heating structure will cost much more than assembling metal device. Despite the difference in price, most homeowners nevertheless prefer stoves made of brick.Building a stove with your own hands: important nuances
First of all, before building a stove in the house, you need to make a foundation for it. For a heating structure made of bricks, monolithic foundation. Any concrete can be used for it, but its grade cannot be lower than 300. The required laying depth must be observed, which should be below the soil freezing level.
The masonry of the stoves is made from solid brick using clay mortar. The firebox requires fireclay bricks. The thickness of the seam must be observed. It should not exceed 5 millimeters, but it is better if it is only 3 millimeters. It is not difficult to make masonry mortar yourself. For it, take quartz sand and mix it with clay in a ratio of 4:1. You will also need a sieve with cells up to 5 millimeters. Before preparing the mixture, the sand is sifted.
The technology for laying fireclay bricks is similar to that followed when using conventional ones. For this you will need fireclay clay. If we build a stove with our own hands, many questions arise regarding the installation of doors, stoves, valves and other metal elements. When arranging them, you must comply with the parameters expansion joints– they must be at least 5 millimeters.
All fittings used must be securely fastened. The head above the roof (chimney) is erected using conventional sand-cement mortar.
A variety of stove accessories are sold in specialized shopping centers and construction markets. It can differ in cost several times depending on who produced it. Foreign products are more expensive than domestic products, but they have a more attractive appearance. Nowadays, a door with heat-resistant glass is most often installed.
Features of the furnace device
Traditional device A classic brick oven provides the fastest heating in the part intended for cooking, while the walls heat up more slowly (read also: ""). Many consumers are not satisfied with this feature. To solve this problem, an afterburning system is provided. As a result, there is no point in fully loading the oven for cooking, but you can only get by with the secondary firebox.In this situation, the nozzle that supplies air for afterburning the fuel acts as a blower. In this case, combustion products are removed by adjusting the gate. The chimney is equipped using an iron or asbestos-cement pipe.
The chimney pipe is equipped with thermal insulation elements only when it passes indoors. It is insulated from the outside basalt wool, and cover the top with foil to prevent condensation from settling on the internal surfaces. The junction of the chimney brick with the metal exhaust pipe is caulked with asbestos cord.
When the construction of a heating system brick construction happens in country house, it is not always advisable to equip a shield with wells and channels, as should be done when constructing a Dutch oven (in more detail: ""). To ensure good traction, the height of the pipe must be at least 3 meters. In summer, a side firebox will be enough to operate the stove. When starting to cook, you need to load about three kilograms of fuel - peat briquettes or small logs. Read also: "".
Tips from master stove makers on how to build a stove correctly
- A good solution to increase the heat transfer area would be to install a steel pipe to which metal radiators are welded. For this purpose, you can also use any iron products.
- To build a stove you need to use solid ceramic brick. Products made of dinas, resistant to high operating temperatures, should be used when assembling the firebox. The fact is that it transfers heat worse compared to red stove bricks - it takes longer to warm up at a higher cost - almost 2 times (read also: " ").
- Before building a stove in the house, the brick must be placed in water for about 4 hours. When laying bricks, they should be placed as accurately as possible, leveling with a mallet. If they are already laid, they cannot be moved from their place. Stove makers usually spread the solution with their hands, without using a trowel. If necessary, use a mason's hammer to trim bricks; you also need to have a grinder.
Materials and tools
To build a furnace, you will need the following materials and tools:- bricks;
- red clay and quartz sand;
- cement;
- stove fittings;
- corner, plumb line, level;
- Bulgarian;
- Master OK;
- workwear.
Some tips for building a stove with your own hands in the video:
At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a home, the profession of a stove maker enjoyed great popularity and respect. Today, to arrange individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick stoves still remain in demand.
Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove maker is not an easy task. And you don’t need to do this, because you can build a full-fledged stove with your own hands.
Before you start laying a stove yourself, familiarize yourself with the features of existing varieties of such units. The stoves are:
- heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens have extremely simple design and posted in as soon as possible and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
- heating and cooking systems. The most popular and sought after option. At the same time they heat the house and allow you to cook food;
There are also improved types of heating and cooking furnaces with built-in kitchen stove or even a full-fledged oven.
Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is an excellent option for a modern private home. Such designs do an excellent job of heating rooms and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.
The diagrams of modern stoves distinguish them not only by their purpose, but also by their shape. Most often, rectangular and square-shaped units are installed in private homes. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select a specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.
Of course, you can lay out the oven yourself, and numerous diagrams will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any stove, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.
Choosing a location and type of foundation for the stove
Before starting to lay the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give out much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.
If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), cold air will constantly “walk” near the floor. Therefore, you need to make your own decision in this regard.
Preliminarily determine the installation location of the combustion door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without spreading debris from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the fire door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-frequented room.
Ready brick stove will have quite an impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and as long as possible, you need to prepare an individual concrete foundation for it.
Furnace design features
Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the apparent simplicity at first glance allows one to achieve very high levels of productivity and efficiency.
The main elements of the brick stove body are the firebox and chimney. Cooking ovens additionally equipped with stoves and/or ovens; it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.
The firebox is the main part of the stove unit. It is into the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can have a wide variety of sizes. There are several things to consider when determining the appropriate dimensions: important factors, such as:
- type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
- required performance;
- required volume.
To arrange the firebox, use refractory bricks. The thickness of the walls of the structure in question cannot be less than half a brick.
The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the stove.
At the chimney design stage, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to deterioration of traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.
An important element in the design of a brick kiln is the ash pan chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied inside the unit to the fuel. The ash chamber is located under the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pit is 3 bricks.
What mortar should I use for masonry?
Reliability and durability directly depend on the quality of the masonry mortar finished oven. The masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay based mortar.
There is nothing complicated in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into “clay milk.” Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.
Remember, the reliability and strength of the stove directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. If you do everything right, the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any length of time.
Main stages and important features of furnace laying
From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and will be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so get ready for the work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.
The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.
First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from brick. Carry out the laying using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.
Second phase. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.
Third stage.
Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Cover inner part this compartment with refractory bricks. Place the bricks “on edge”. At this stage you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is used, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door using a steel plate and the wire you are already familiar with.
Fifth stage. Carry on standard masonry until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the tiles with burners evenly. This stove must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the installation using a building level.
Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer passage is being built.
Seventh stage. Install the stove and line the walls of the cooking compartment. Lay out the previously mentioned lower cap.
Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer passage channel. This valve is located in inner corner cooking compartments.
Ninth stage. Lay the masonry up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, close the brewing compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave the required number of holes in the solid masonry for the summer passage and lifting channel, as well as the vent for the cooking compartment. Place the bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.
Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the fuel combustion process and admire the flame.
Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.
Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the hood almost to the top edge of the wall opening. Cover the top of the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. Thanks to this, additional thermal insulation will be provided and heating efficiency will be slightly increased.
Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.
Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better if the chimney is made of brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.
At the end, all you have to do is lay out the entire chimney and, if desired, finish the exterior of the stove. The simplest option is plastering. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.
Thus, although laying the stove is not a simple task, it can be done with your own hands. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work must be of the highest quality. And the stove diagrams, proven over the years, will allow you to independently build a unit that will long years heat your home efficiently without any problems or complaints.
Good luck!
Video - Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams
Traditional stoves heat rooms by transferring heat from their walls. The energy that is released during the combustion process is initially accumulated in the walls of the stove, and subsequently the walls give off heat to the surrounding air. All this is determined by the design of the stove itself.
Types of furnace work
Let's take a closer look at the most popular types of stove work for a country house to make your dacha as comfortable as possible. The first type is a heating stove, which will only be used to warm up the premises. This type of stove should be installed at the front of the house, in this case you will be able to achieve optimal temperatures throughout the house.
Such ovens include Dutch ovens and steel or cast iron temporary sheds. Nowadays, a Dutch oven is defined as a large heating stove made of masonry. Such stoves vary in wall thickness. Each dacha requires an individual approach to selection heating system, therefore, the thickness of the stove walls will depend on the specific conditions in your country house.
In addition to the two mentioned standard types ovens, there are others that are used slightly differently. A fireplace in the country house is what can attract friends and family to your country house. The fireplace stove looks great. Gathering with the whole family by the fireplace on winter weekends, you will spend unforgettable evenings.
Materials for laying stoves
In addition, stoves differ in the materials from which they are made. Today, the variety of stoves is simply amazing. That is why, when choosing a stove for a country house, you need to resort to the services of professionals who will help you choose something worthwhile and of high quality that will last for decades. Remember that the cottage and the stove are practically inseparable from each other; you should not separate them.
| Name | Brand |
|---|---|
| Ceramic stove brick | M-200 |
| Fireclay brick | Sha-8 |
| Rubble stone | Cobblestone |
| Clay-sand mixture | Plitonite |
| Fireproof mixture | Plitonite |
| Furnace fittings | Cast iron |
| Cement | M-500 |
Requirements for furnaces
When choosing a stove, you must remember that it must meet certain requirements.
Basic requirements for furnaces:
- the stove must be economical. Optimal temperature heating due to low fuel consumption.
- heating of the oven should be uniform over the entire surface, this also applies to its lower part. During the day, the heat given off by the stove should be distributed evenly.
- the heating temperature of the furnace surface should be optimal, but not exceed 70-75 degrees.
- the stove should have a simple design to facilitate masonry.
- ease of operation of the oven.
- any oven must meet the requirements fire safety. Basic conditions that meet fire safety rules: no cracks on the stove, preventing smoke from escaping into ventilation ducts. It is prohibited to install grilles on the smoke duct.
- the oven must meet sanitary and technical requirements. Do not line the stove with glue or mastic.
- compactness of the furnace. It should not interfere with the architectural appearance of the house.
- the stove should create comfort and coziness in the house.
Types of stoves
The heat itself is first transferred to the walls of the stove from an open flame, and then from heated exhaust gases. And if you want to achieve from your stove maximum efficiency, then you need to install complex system chimneys, thanks to which the hot gas - before leaving the stove - will circulate in them for a long time, giving off the necessary heat for the heated room.
The traditional Russian stove is a character in many Russian fairy tales. Ilya Muromets, a national hero, spent more than thirty years on the stove, Emelya rode on the stove, and she was also a character in fairy tales with Baba Yaga. Many of us also spent our childhood near a cozy large stove.
Traditional wood stoves are widespread in our open spaces. Since ancient times, villages have entrusted masonry to masters of their craft - stove makers. You also need to carry out preparatory work and also dry the oven.
Furnaces that run on natural gas are very simple and at the same time easy to use. Before you invite a furnace technician, you need to decide on the size of the furnace. A small stove will be ineffective, burn a lot of fuel and will quickly overheat, and subsequently require urgent repairs. Device gas oven in the house requires individual permission.
Laying the foundation of the furnace is preparatory work. The space between the parts of the foundation must be filled with sand. Determine the optimal location of the stove so that the chimney does not hit the beams in the wall. The size of the stove foundation will depend on the size of the stove, namely, it should be 6-7 cm larger than the transverse size of the stove. The depth of the foundation for single-story and room stoves is 50-60 centimeters, for two-story stoves - 1 meter.
The foundation for the furnace should be made of brick, rubble stone or concrete blocks. After this, the finished foundation is opened with a layer of cement, and several layers of roofing material are laid on top to insulate it from moisture. Before laying the furnace, the foundation must settle for 6-8 days.
Once you have finished laying the stove, you should dry it thoroughly. The right way oven drying is a natural drying process in which all doors and windows in the house are left open for two weeks. All oven openings should be open. Once the damp spots disappear, the oven can be considered dry. There is also artificial oven drying, which should be used under appropriate conditions. weather conditions when there is no way to dry the oven naturally. In this case, the surface temperature of the oven should not be more than 50 0C; the essence of this drying is to repeatedly light the oven for 30 minutes. It is advisable to heat the stove with small wooden logs. After the stove has cooled down, re-ignition is carried out. After each subsequent kindling, all stove openings are left open. Artificial drying is carried out for a week, after which the time for heating can be increased. In humid weather, oven drying takes 8-10 days. An indicator that the stove is dry is the absence of puffs of white smoke (water vapor) coming out of the chimney.
Description of furnace laying works
When building a furnace, you must adhere to the given drawings, which are given separately for each row of masonry.
The stoves are installed on a foundation made of stone or baked brick. To check the correctness of the masonry, you can first lay the stove dry, without clay, in the yard. First, lay out the bricks of the first row on level ground, then the second row, and so on. The masonry of the Teplushka above the twelfth row is almost no different from the masonry of an ordinary Russian stove and does not present any difficulties. In the house, the stove is positioned so that the pipe is high and straight. If a hose is needed in the attic, then its turns are smoothly rounded so that there is no resistance to the movement of flue gases.
The distance from the fire door to the opposite wall must be at least 1.25 m, the cutting between the stove and the adjacent wall is made with a thickness of at least half a brick plus two layers of felt soaked in clay (that is, from inner surface the stove must be at least 25 cm from the wall).
When laying a stove from adobe, the dried brick should have the following dimensions: length 25 cm, width 12 cm and thickness 6.5 cm.
When laying the stove, the rules for tying bricks are observed. Each vertical seam must be overlapped with a brick from the next top row. Typically, such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, cannot always be achieved. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it must be at least a quarter of the length of the brick. When laying the stove, check the correctness of the angles (diagonals are equal) and edges. The deviation from the vertical is controlled by a plumb line, the equality of the diagonals is controlled by a cord, and the horizontality of the masonry is controlled by a level.
To speed up the laying with continuous control, four cords are pulled vertically between the ceiling and the corners of the base. From the inner surface of the stove during laying, every five rows, lumps of clay are cleaned from the seams with a wet rag, since during firing the clay falls off and clogs the stove.
After finishing the masonry, the remaining lumps of clay are first removed from the oven through the cleaning holes. Then pieces of brick with clay are inserted into them so that they protrude slightly into the room and can be easily removed during the next cleaning. In places that require more frequent supervision, for example, at the base of the chimney, doors are installed for cleaning. During operation of the stove, the cracks in them should be covered with clay.
The seams are made no thicker than 0.5 cm, since otherwise the clay will crumble and the masonry will be fragile. To ensure that the mortar adheres better to the brick, it is soaked in a bucket of water before laying.
Dry brick takes moisture away from clay mortar and the masonry turns out to be fragile and breathable, and this negatively affects the operation of the stove. Before laying, refractory bricks are only dipped in water, since prolonged soaking quickly destroys them at high temperatures.
The solution is prepared from clay, sand and water. Water should make up no more than a quarter of the volume of clay. The amount of sand depends on the degree of fat content of the clay: an equal volume of sand is mixed with oily clay, while lean clay requires less. A solution is not made from fatty clay alone, because it cracks when it dries and the masonry turns out loose.
The sand should be fine-grained, without silt and lime. It is sifted through a sieve with cells of 1...2 mm. Coarse sand produces thick seams that reduce the strength of the stove.
The solution is prepared in a trough or on wooden flooring and leave for at least a day, then it is thoroughly mixed and any lumps and pebbles are removed. Its suitability is determined by touch. When rubbing the solution between your fingers, you should feel a layer of grains of sand. If there is not enough sand, you will only get a slippery film of clay with individual grains of sand. If there is an excess of sand, the seam is dense, but weak, since not all grains of sand in it are glued together with clay. The solution is used in such a thickness that it is easily squeezed out from under the brick when you press it with your hand. Only then will it tightly fill the seam.
The appliances are installed simultaneously with the brick laying, otherwise they will not fit well and be secured. The fire doors are secured using two horizontal strips of hoop iron riveted to the door frame. The ends of the strips protruding 100 mm beyond the frame are wrapped with wire fixed in the masonry. Since the fire door and the brick expand differently, its frame is wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord, and the gap between it and the masonry (3...4 mm) is covered with clay. The remaining doors are secured to the masonry with two-millimeter 10-gauge annealed wire or using strip steel claws riveted to the door frame.
The frames of the valves are clamped into the masonry, the cracks are covered with clay. A metal sheet measuring 60x50 cm is nailed to the floor in front of the firebox, covering the area of the floor under the fire door.
The folded stove is dried, slowly warming up the masonry, for 8...10 days. On the first day they burn a small amount of fuel, in next days its consumption is gradually increased and brought to normal. During drying, the view in the pipe is kept completely open to freely remove moisture released from the masonry.
If the stove smokes when burning, you must first heat the air in chimney, since draft appears in it when it is filled with smoke, which has more high temperature compared to outside air. In the summer, in a damp, cold pipe with warm outside air, reverse thrust. In all cases, the pipe must be heated by burning paper or small wood chips inside it at the base (through the cleaning door) or on the surface.
Before laying, you should carefully study the drawings of the stove and the rules for handling it.
If the pipe needs to be made with right side, then the drawings are examined with the help of a mirror placed edge-on on them. After construction of the furnace, working drawings should be retained for possible repairs.
The laying of the first row is carried out on a foundation raised to the floor level or higher, but not more than 3 cm.
