How to properly renovate an apartment after it was flooded by the neighbors from above, paint over the stains, paint the walls, hang wallpaper so that stains do not appear. (10+)
How to make repairs after a flood?
The material is an explanation and addition to the article:
Painter's tutorial. Selection and application of paints and varnishes
A short tutorial for a painter. Tips for choosing soil, paint and varnish material and tools, tinting
Question. Our upstairs neighbors flooded us. They poured it specifically. Leaks throughout the apartment, dark water stains on the ceiling and walls in the kitchen, bathroom, hallway and one of the rooms. The wallpaper has peeled off. Tell me how to make repairs in this case. From past experience, we know that it is very difficult to paint over leaks; stains and smudges appear through the paint; this is especially noticeable on the ceiling. The wallpaper on the walls also darkens with streaks where water has flowed. Can you recommend anything?
Answer. Really dark stains of drips are quite difficult to paint over or cover with wallpaper. They tend to bleed through. But there are reliable technologies.
Firstly, wait until the walls, ceiling and ceiling are completely dry. This will take at least six months. There is no point in doing repairs before.
Secondly, remove old wallpaper, peeling paint. If, after pouring, the plaster begins to lag behind or simply becomes loose, then it must also be removed. If the entire wall has become brittle, then it must be impregnated with deep penetration acrylic bonding primer. The resulting depressions and irregularities need to be leveled. I do this with VGT putty. This putty applies and sands well. If the potholes are deep, then the putty must be applied in several stages. After the first application the putty will crack. This is fine. Cracks need to be filled. Sand the resulting surface. Minor defects fix thin layer the same putty.
Third, after the putty has completely dried, you need to apply a waterproof paint layer so that no stains appear. The fact is that water-based paints are all porous, they breathe and allow water to pass through. Wallpaper also allows water to pass through. Dirt goes along with the water. It is dirt and foreign impurities that appear in spots. The easiest way to create a waterproof layer is this way. Apply universal alkyd or glypthal primer. I use Otex primer (Tikkurila) or white primer GF-021. Then you need to apply PF-115 enamel, then another layer of primer. This enamel is completely waterproof. This provides protection against stain bleed through. Water-based paint or wallpaper paste will not stick over enamel, so a second layer of primer is needed. In fact, GF-021 is also waterproof, so if you use this primer, then just two layers of primer are enough; you don’t have to apply enamel, but you can apply it to be safe. If Otex is used, then enamel must be applied.
You can apply enamel over the first layer of primer after 4 - 6 hours. The second layer of primer on the enamel can also be applied after 4 - 6 hours. Dry thoroughly last layer soil (preferably 24 hours). Application water paints or wallpaper glue on insufficiently dried alkyd or glypthal primer leads to the curling of paint or glue (characteristic lumps are formed).
All! You can paint the ceiling or walls, glue wallpaper. The stains will not appear after such repairs.
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We are not immune from troubles in life. The worst things, in my opinion, are the cases when you don’t know what to do. Force majeure of this kind includes a roof leak (sudden) or flooding from neighbors. They immediately give up. In vain. You should immediately begin repairing the ceiling after a leak with your own hands. Otherwise the damage will be great.
This kind of surprise initially puts you into a stupor. What to do? First of all you should understand the cause of the “flood”. The roof is leaking - fix the gap. With neighbors the issue will be resolved more easily. Who will eliminate the consequences of the flood? You can call specialists. We offer practical advice owners who will take on the task of repairing the ceiling after a leak.
Today at different apartments and even in the same house, but in different rooms you can see different ceiling coverings:
- plastered;
- tiled;
- gypsum plaster;
- tension;
- from PVC panels.
Given such diversity, repairs after a leak must be taken seriously so as not to have to do it every month. Let's consider each case separately.
Plaster ceiling
This type was standard until recently. Now it is less common, but it still exists. The plaster can be placed on wooden floors. We offer another option: concrete floors(typical for multi-storey buildings).
Let's start by preparing the tool. We will need:
- respirator or cotton-gauze bandage;
- sandpaper;
- grater for grinding;
- sandpaper;
- brush and roller;
- flashlight;
For work you will need a primer, putty, and paint.
Attention! Before work, do not forget to turn off the power to the house!
First of all it is necessary remove the wet layer, since not the entire ceiling will have to be repaired. Leakage occurs at the joints of the slabs and the input/output of electrical wiring. In these places you will have to fix the problem.
Remove with a spatula until concrete base the whole wet mass. This is easy to do.
After this it is required good drying, which is convenient to produce heat gun(if there is no production hairdryer). Plus to this good ventilation. Drying should not be rushed: The leak area must be completely dry.
Following this, we carry out a thorough cleaning of this place. sandpaper . We work using respiratory protection against dust. The result of this stage should be a bare ceiling, free of putty and paint. The cleared space should not look like an island: the ceiling, untouched by water, smoothly turns into a bare one. This is achieved by stripping the dry surface to 30 mm. Now dust is removed from the entire ceiling: it is convenient to do this with a vacuum cleaner.
Important! You should work with extreme caution: the primer should not touch the undamaged part of the ceiling.
Now let’s get down to the basic repair of the leaking ceiling. First of all it is necessary prime the cleaned area. After drying, re-prime. For work, use a deep penetration solution: after a while, stains may appear.
Healthy! For work, use all materials: primer, putty, paint - waterproof.
It's time to start puttingty. The ideal option is to use previous mixture. It’s good if you remember which one you used and use it. Otherwise, you will have to test a new putty mixture: apply it on the border of the cleaned area and the undamaged part. After drying there is no rejection, which means putty mixture great fit.
When putting putty, you should go a little to the untouched part of the ceiling. After drying, you need to sand it with fine sandpaper, the smoothness of which can be checked by applying a flashlight.
Final work on repairing the ceiling after flooding - painting the ceiling. The entire ceiling should be painted: it is almost impossible to get a complete shade match.
Ceiling material, most convenient for flooding
Do your home leak frequently? Tile the ceiling and you will make your life easier. It is made of material that is not afraid of water. Is this the kind of material you have? You're in luck: in this case, the ceiling leak will require virtually no repairs. The only thing to do is blot the water with a sponge.
You will have to restore the tile when the coating under the tile is damaged. But it's not difficult to fix. They took it off, cleaned out the damage with a spatula, let it dry and re-glued it with tiles.
Plasterboard ceiling
Repairing a plasterboard ceiling after a flood is a more labor-intensive process compared to the previous one. When a leak appears, time is an important factor: you need to act quickly, urgently let the water drain from the ceiling. To do this, you need to make a hole where the leak occurred and let drain liquid. Now the main task will be to determine the area of the sheet that gets wet. For this purpose, drywall is tapped. When tapping:
- the sound is dull and dents remain - this is the damaged part;
- the sound is clear - the part is not damaged.
When preparing to cut a sheet, you should consider the location of the frame. Once you find it, you can remove the entire sheet. In the event of a spill elsewhere, do the following:
- the wet sheet is cut out;
- a new piece is prepared according to its size;
- the workpiece is inserted into the niche and secured;
- Priming, puttying and painting are carried out according to technology.
The most resistant to flooding
If there are suspended ceilings, two options are possible when flooded: the coating has become unusable or is not damaged at all. This is influenced by the type of material.
Sufferes most from exposure to water fabric ceiling . If domestic material was used for it, then it is unlikely that it can be restored - it would be wiser to say goodbye to it. Covering with imported fabric will not change the color or design. After it dries, not a trace of water will remain on it.
WITH calico ceiling you won't have to work hard. The whole problem is quality drying. It will come true in a natural way. All that remains is to apply the paint. Wrinkles may form - this is not a problem. This ceiling is fixed to the frame using a stapler. The task is to remove several staples, then, after stretching the calico, shoot again.
Vinyl stretch ceiling most resistant to leakage. Its cover, like a reservoir, will collect all the water. As a result, it will sag under the weight of the liquid - that’s all. Repairing a ceiling after a flood involves draining the water.
Important! Under no circumstances should water be removed by piercing the canvas. This will damage it irrevocably.
When it is not possible to do this, you will have to drain the water with your own hands. This work requires caution. Initially, you need to find the connecting seam, which is usually located in the corner. We found it - we remove it decorative insert until an edge is found. Try to warm it up room temperature maximum (preferably up to 40 degrees).
Now you will need pliers with a rounded lip. The place where the edge is located is necessary warm up with a heat gun. After this, carefully hooking the edge, pull it 2 cm. Through this hole you need to drain the water. This is done simply: lift the hanging part, roll water towards the hole. After the procedure has been completed, the ceiling will return to its previous shape. Do not immediately cover the edge and insert - let everything dry.
Not afraid of water
An excellent option in case of flooding is PVC ceiling. The tile will not be damaged at all. You should pay attention to what the frame is made of. Metal and wood treated with a special substance are not threatened by water. However, we recommend removing 2-3 slabs for drying between the ceiling space, then replacing the slabs. The main thing is that there is nothing above them that could then begin to rot.
When installing the ceiling during renovation, it would be advisable to provide for possible flooding in the apartment. After weighing all the pros and cons, choose a coating that will be least damaged by water. In any case, if such trouble befalls you, do not be afraid to repair the ceiling in your apartment after a leak with your own hands.
Useful video
The video below shows practical advice for repairing a ceiling after a leak with your own hands:
Repairing the ceiling with your own hands is quite possible even in the most severe cases, such as flooding the entire area with fecal water from above. Of course, it is better to reach an amicable agreement with the culprit regarding compensation for expenses and labor. Payment for your own labor costs can also be obtained through the court - it will be calculated according to the average market for this type of work. But the courts are the courts, but the ceiling still needs to be done, and preferably in such a way that it does not leak later.
The ceilings in the apartment are repaired not only in an emergency manner. The paint becomes dull and fades, the whitewash is peeling, the sheathing is warped and heaving - in any case, repairs are needed. Even with the simplest cosmetic repairs, the ceiling cannot be ignored: it was previously quite decent, but against the backdrop of just new wallpaper it will ruin the entire appearance of the room. Methods for repairing a ceiling vary somewhat depending on its condition, so first of all, let’s look at the types of repairs.
How to repair ceilings
Types of ceiling repairs can be divided into superficial and deep, dry and wet. Superficial methods are always dry and are used in mild cases. Deep renovation wet method produces less dust and dirt, but is more labor-intensive and requires fairly high skill. Even a novice master can carry out dry deep repairs, but you will have to work hard, and the entire apartment needs to be prepared: remove the carpets, remove the furniture too or cover it with reliable covers, protect the floors in the entire room with hardboard or thick film - it is omnipresent.
Depending on the ultimate goal and condition, ceiling repair methods are divided according to increasing complexity as follows:
- Dry ceiling paneling for painting.
- Surface cleaning for repainting or wallpapering - with a smooth, dry, drip-free ceiling.
- Replastering and leveling – in case of stains, drips, or peeling of old plaster.
- Preparation for installing a suspended ceiling.
- Repairing the ceiling after a leak from above.
- Major repairs in case of dampness from above - most often needed on the upper floors after major repairs of a previously leaking roof.
Protection measures
Cement-sand and gypsum dust are dangerous not only for the respiratory system and eyes. Construction dust on the skin is an abrasive that opens the way for infection. In addition, medical research in recent decades has established that fat-soluble substances (they are part of paint coatings, primers, removers and detergents) can still penetrate the body through sweaty, steamed skin and, as they say, hit the liver. Finally, to remove stains and drips from the ceiling, especially if there was a sewer flood, products that are themselves aggressive, toxic and produce equally aggressive and toxic volatile compounds are used.
Further, it is impossible to repair the ceiling while standing or lying on it, and you will have to work in weight, on an elevation, without looking at your feet. As a result - increased fatigue, slow visual accommodation and increased risk of injury. Therefore, when planning to repair the ceiling, you need to immediately take care of protective equipment and safety measures:
- Hood with a cape at the back of the head; as a last resort - a wide-brimmed hat;
- Tightly fastened and completely body-fitting clothing made of thick fabric;
- Shoes with non-slip soles that are thin and soft enough to feel the edge of the flooring through them;
- Petal respirator;
- Protective glasses;
- Latex gloves even for dry repairs;
- Reliable trestles or small-sized collapsible scaffolding for indoor work.
Tool
Where to start repairing the ceiling? From checking the availability of tools and purchasing the missing ones. Besides the usual home tool, to repair the ceiling you will need:
- An 800 W hammer drill or more powerful, but lighter in weight;
- Chisels 4-6, 20-30 and 80-100 mm for concrete to the hammer drill;
- To it or to the drill - a mixing attachment for mixing the solution;
- Angle drill (grinder) 400-600 W or more, but also lighter;
- Metal cord brush with a diameter of 100-150 mm for a conventional drill;
- A straight bar for an abrasive mesh with a length of at least 500 mm and a width of 80-100 mm;
- Bubble level from 1000 mm;
- Metal spatulas with a thin flexible blade sharpened to a wedge to a knife sharpness - 40-60 and 100-120 mm;
- Metal spatulas with a rigid blunt straight blade 100-150 and 400-800 mm;
- Master OK;
- Round and fluted brushes 30-40 and 80-120 mm;
- Paint rollers – spongy and fleecy;
- Injector gun for polyurethane foam;
- Plastic bucket 5-20 l;
- Half a discarded rubber ball, larger in size, for mixing plaster;
- Household spray bottle;
- Dust collector for a household vacuum cleaner, purchased or homemade.
Note: It is not necessary to buy a block for the abrasive mesh. A suitably sized piece of timber made from dry, seasoned wood will do. It is checked for evenness with a level, a rule, or by drawing lines, like a school ruler. To prevent it from moving away during work, it is wrapped with a mesh with a 100% overlap along the edge opposite to the working one. The mesh is secured with two rows of push pins.
With this set of tools you can make ceiling repairs of any complexity. For simpler cases, the kit is reduced. Which tool to perform which operations is described further in the paragraphs on types of repairs.
Repair materials
For any ceiling repair, you will need a reinforced polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm to protect the walls and floor; Most often this is used for packaging large household appliances. The best film is black. In the future, depending on the type of ceiling repair, the range of materials for it changes significantly.
Let's look at the types of technologies, but it should also be noted that the materials used together (starting and finishing plaster, primer and paint, putty and paint) are best purchased from the same manufacturer. The point here is not about some secret additives “from competitors”, but about the fact that tests of materials are carried out, naturally, “on their own” and only in this case is their declared quality guaranteed.
Covering for painting or whitewashing
This is the simplest ceiling repair. For it you will need:
- Self-tapping screws 6x80 mm with propylene dowels.
- Concrete drill 6x90 mm.
- Drywall.
- Self-tapping screws 4x20 mm.
- A cross attachment for a drill for driving self-tapping screws.
- Construction gypsum.
Surface cleaning
This work is more complicated, but it will require less materials:
- Abrasive mesh and a block for it.
- Remover for paint or wallpaper.
- Construction plaster or gypsum putty for the ceiling - rotband, golband, etc.
- Primer for gypsum with biocidal additives or water-polymer emulsion.
- White finishing plaster; better - polymer.
Replastering, repair after leakage, overhaul
For serious types of repairs, you will need the same materials, but in addition to them the following:
- Household liquid chlorine-based oxidizer - “Whiteness”, etc. Oxygen oxidizers protect laundry, but for construction work no good.
- Copper sulfate.
- Deep penetration primer for concrete.
- Polyurethane foam.
- Painting mesh (mounting bandage, sickle tape).
- PVA or assembly glue.
- Isogypsum starting ceiling plaster. The cement base on the ceiling does not hold up well.
- Plaster beacons.
- Self-tapping screws with dowels for attaching metal beacons to the ceiling.
- Concrete drill for flea dowels.
Note: they used to plaster, and even now sometimes they plaster the ceiling with durable and water-resistant cement plaster, stretching a chain-link mesh underneath it on the anchors. However, the metal mesh will sooner or later show itself as rust. There are polymer chain-links that are not inferior in strength and elasticity to steel ones, but they are very expensive. Construction technologies general purpose are moving towards improving adhesive gypsum mixtures and creating their synthetic analogues.
Repairs after a leak are carried out at limited area, so beacons are not needed for it. More precisely, they would be needed, but there is nowhere to put them. But you will need methylene blue or aniline dyes to match the tone of the restored area to the general one.
Note: Under no circumstances should dye be added to the finished finishing plaster, otherwise the ceiling will come out spotty. The dye is diluted in water according to the instructions and the dry mixture is mixed with this water. They take a lot of water at once, so that there is enough for all the work, with a known excess. Having mixed a small portion, plaster a small area, check the tone when dry and add either water or dye to the tub until it matches exactly the tone. But the entire surface must be finished with one portion of colored water.
For a major overhaul of a completely flooded ceiling, you can use the same materials. But for long-term repairs, especially if the room has become damp repeatedly or has been damp for a long time, you will also need silica gel, see the section on overhaul technology.
Note: plaster beacons for the ceiling are not necessarily metal or plastic purchased; the first ones can also rust. Excellent beacons are made from strips of drywall cut according to a template using a jigsaw. On the ceiling they adhere perfectly to PVA or mounting adhesive. By cutting their end adjacent to the ceiling according to the unevenness, you can independently plaster it to the maximum thickness for isogypsum of 20 mm.
Preparation for suspension
This work is quite labor-intensive, but it will only require polyurethane foam, “deep” primer for concrete, self-tapping screws with dowels and/or anchor pins (bolts) with collets for the appropriate type of frame, a suspension for the chandelier (if there is one) and concrete drills for each type of fastener. For deep cleaning ceiling with disinfection and drying, if necessary, you will also need “Whiteness”, copper sulfate and silica gel.
Repair procedure
A do-it-yourselfer, as a rule, does not have sufficient work experience and a trained eye to accurately determine the condition of the ceiling and the method of repairing it, on the one hand, with a quick inspection. On the other hand, he is not constrained by time, is not bound by contracts, can count on free assistance and freely manages cash. Based on this, the sequence of DIY ceiling repair differs from professional one:
- Preliminary inspection and choice of final finishing method;
- Documenting the condition of the ceiling;
- Drying the room until air dry;
- Secondary documentation of the condition;
- The final choice of repair and finishing method;
- Carrying out repairs of the selected type.
Preliminary inspection
The purpose of the operation is to identify defects that are difficult to eliminate or cannot be eliminated at all on your own. For example, a ceiling that has sagged in the middle requires an audit of the condition of the building, and there can be no talk of any repairs until the results are achieved. Ceiling tiles with a vertical offset of 2 cm or more practically eliminate unprofessional leveling of the ceiling with starting plaster and limit the choice of finishing methods. Gaping cracks between the slabs require cleaning and replastering the ceiling over the entire area before painting and wallpapering. Even if the old plaster seems to be dry, it has absorbed fumes from the cracks and will soon show up as stains after a simple repair.
Documentation
Documentation in in this case means photographing. For what? Keep a piece of cardboard in a shed or basement for a day or two. Its appearance will not change, except that it will darken a little compared to the control. Then dry it with a household hairdryer - stains, streaks, and even salt deposits will probably appear.
A home craftsman does not work with ceilings for a long time and systematically; there is no control ceiling at hand. It is this circumstance that explains many cases of unsuccessful repairs, when a stain that seems to have been repaired according to all the rules appears again and again. To accurately determine the size and nature of visible defects and identify hidden ones, you need to compare the appearance of the ceiling in two states - normal and air-dry.
They take photographs with a digital camera: the ergonomics and design of phones, communicators and tablets are designed for shooting only handheld, and their weak optics will not provide the proper quality of images, no matter how many megapixels in the matrix the manufacturers advertise. Take photographs from a stool or a tripod, always without flash, in the morning, evening or in cloudy weather, with oblique, diffused light from the window. The pictures will turn out visually gray and cloudy, but the detail will be the best.
The stool is placed approximately under the center of the defect and its place on the room plan is marked. In the camera, turn off the flash, turn on the simulated shutter sound (for point-and-shoot cameras with an electronic shutter) and the timer. Place the camera on a stool with the lens, of course, up, and, if possible, exactly parallel to the nearest wall. They press the shutter and freeze until the shutter closes - the shutter speed will be long, and accidental shaking may blur the picture. The pictures are NOT PROCESSED in any way; What is needed is drab, but precise detailing, not beauty.
After drying (see next paragraph), shooting is repeated from the same points at the same angle and at the same zoom. It’s convenient to compare pictures in Photoshop by overlaying one on top of the other and making the top one translucent. Most often, it turns out that the area of plaster that has swollen after a leak is larger than it seemed, and a hidden stain is found in the center of the stain. The latter case means that the ceiling was once painted oil paint, and the oil absorbed into the ceiling is waiting in the wings to ruin the fresh repair. It happens that threads of biting midge appear on seemingly decent plaster. The plaster can be removed, but without deep disinfection of the ceiling with aggressive agents, the fungus will begin to develop again from spores.
Drying
Professionals dry the premises with a hair dryer after cleaning the base surfaces. But for an amateur, this method is not very effective, it does not allow you to control the drying process, and for rooms that have been damp for years it is completely ineffective.
In the military economic activity There is a known method that makes it possible to make a caponier, abandoned after the war, suitable for a club, library or medical unit. Even in Soviet army it was considered very expensive and therefore was rarely used. But if you recalculate it according to physical chemistry for the cubic capacity and operating conditions of residential premises, then the devil turns out to be not as terrible as he is painted, see figure:
Drying the room with silica gel
- Around the perimeter of the room, the simplest 100 W incandescent lamps with a transparent bulb are hung on tripods or trestles at the rate of 100 W/sq. m. If the wiring with automatic shutdown can withstand a large total power, this will not harm in any way.
- In the middle of the room, in a bed with a gap in the middle, silica gel is poured or placed in vapor-permeable bags at the rate of 0.5 kg/sq. m. Silica gel will be the cheapest, non-indicating, colored or flavored.
- Place a scale in the middle of the bed and place several bags of silica gel on it. This is necessary to control moisture absorption.
- On the silica gel side, galvanized sheets, etc., are leaned against the tripods (goats) so that thermal radiation lamps reflected on the walls, and did not dry out the absorber and did not prevent it from absorbing moisture.
- Drying is done tightly indoors.
Drying will hardly require more than a day. When the increase in weight of the control load of the absorber slows down or stops, it is dried for another hour or two and immediately photographed again. The temperature in the room needs to be periodically monitored: if it becomes unbearably hot, the lamps are turned off, and when they cool down to 40-45 degrees, they are turned on again.
Choosing a repair and finishing method
Based on the results of comparison of images and visual inspection After the premises have completely cooled down, they finally choose the methods of repair and finishing. There are also possible nuances here. For example, there seemed to be a slight soaking, and after drying the plaster began to peel off in layers. Or the midge showed up, but when it cooled down, it hid again. This means that the fungus is alive and there is a lot of work to be done.
When re-inspecting the ceiling, they also check its evenness using a bubble level or a rule. For unevenness up to 5 mm, you can get by with partial repairs of defective areas. Irregularities up to 20 mm require replastering, full or partial. More than 20 mm - a false ceiling is required or professional work highly qualified plasterer.
To choose correctly suitable way repairs, about finishing the ceiling you need to keep in mind the following:
- – “cave” method. Cheap, simple, but dusty, allergenic and carcinogenic, unstable and short-lived. More or less suitable for non-residential utility premises, which are visited once a month, not every month.
- Finish snow-white plaster (satengypsum, etc.) - modern mixtures still generate a little dust, so they are not suitable for a bedroom or children's room on their own, but they will work as a base for painting. Inexpensive, easy to work, can be adjusted to match the color with dyes, but requires careful leveling with starting plaster on the beacons or plasterboard on the sheathing.
- – never gave in to false ceilings. Modern acrylic and alkyd enamels they are strong, durable, and allow you to get a surface from deeply matte to mirror-like, but in the latter case you need a plasterboard false ceiling on a lathing or frame made of standard metal profiles, otherwise the mirror will turn out crooked.
- Artistic painting requires high skill or high wages for painters who possess it. Does not require ideal ceiling leveling. Paintings of fresco technologies generate dust, as they are done on plaster, and their coating is transparent acrylic varnish detracts or nullifies artistic merit due to shine and glare. An option for everyone.
- - a cheap and simple alternative to painting, but the design, alas, is not unique. Alignment is thorough, as for finishing and painting.
- , frame and cassette, do not require alignment, allow you to obtain many unique aesthetic effects, communications can be laid in the inter-ceiling space, but they are complex, expensive and take a lot away from the height of the room.
- – they do not require leveling, but require dust removal of the base surface with a primer and varnish. They allow you to obtain wonderful aesthetic effects, they can be mirrored, with a unique design applied by photo or printing, but they are expensive and not durable enough. They take away the height, it is impossible to lay communications.
- False ceilings made of wood or metal lathing made of laminate, they allow you to lay electrical wiring, install spotlights or ceiling lamps in them, they are easier to work with and not as expensive as pendant lamps. allows you to get almost any tone. Roughness of the base surface up to 5 and even 10 mm is acceptable; dust removal is not necessary. Suitable where a continuous one is not needed smooth surface ceiling. Overhead plasterboard ceilings will be discussed further below.
Note: liquid wallpaper is quite suitable for finishing the ceiling, but psychologists do not recommend it - flickering at the top is depressing and annoying. Suitable as an option for an amateur with a special worldview after consultation with a psychoanalyst. Basic repairs - just like painting. They are quite expensive and not particularly durable, so they require two layers of acrylic varnish. They don't create dust.
An overhead plasterboard ceiling is used as a smooth base for painting and wallpapering. In the kitchen, where there is a lot of pollution and aggressive impurities in the air, the lathing is needed from wooden beams or metal. In other rooms, it can be made from strips of the same plasterboard 7-8 cm wide. By placing strips of sheathing one under the other, you can even out unevenness and displacement of the slabs up to 5 cm or more. If the base ceiling is dry and not affected by fungus, its preparation comes down to surface cleaning with an abrasive mesh on a block.
Before installation, the sheathing strips are impregnated on both sides with a water-polymer emulsion. Attached to the ceiling assembly adhesive; additionally reinforced with self-tapping screws 4-5x60-70 mm in dowels, in two rows with an indentation of 1/4 of the strip width from the edge. The sheathing pitch is 400-600 mm. Plasterboard slabs are also attached to the sheathing with glue, and then with small flea screws.
A false ceiling made of plasterboard can be considered an ideal renovation option in rooms that are not subject to dampness and soaking.
Single-level false ceiling based on plasterboard
Types of repairs and work process
Covering for painting or gluing
This type of repair is described above especially in view of its advantages. We can only add that a ceiling that has leaked before must be deeply cleaned and disinfected, as during a major overhaul, see below. 
Surface cleaning
Surface cleaning of a flat, dry ceiling begins with treatment with paint remover; In order to save not very cheap material, it is applied with a sponge, and not with a spray gun, and kept according to the instructions. The work is carried out in a tightly closed room using all protective measures.
The effect of the remover vapors on the finishing of walls and floors is checked by inserting a piece finishing material in a plastic bag together with a cloth moistened with remover. If it lasts for a day, you can work with this composition.
Next, an abrasive mesh on a block is used to pass the ceiling in stripes along and across, then remove dust; first with a wide flute brush, then with a vacuum cleaner with a dust collector. After dust removal, identified small depressions with paint residues are again treated with a remover, and the residues are removed with a narrow flexible spatula. The holes are sealed with plaster with one stroke of a wide, hard spatula.
After puttying, they go over it again with an abrasive and impregnate it with a fleecy roller with a primer for the chosen paint. Having previously practiced in the kitchen (it’s still better to cover the ceiling there with plasterboard), neat and attentive House master quite capable of obtaining a surface suitable for mirror painting with acrylic.
Video: cleaning the surface of the ceiling and walls
Replastering and leveling dry ceilings
The old paint is removed with a remover and abrasive as described, but roughly, as long as there is not a continuous layer. Then the ceiling is generously sprayed with water from a spray bottle and left for a day, tightly closing the room. After this, make a test with a narrow or medium sharp flexible spatula: old plaster should be removed flat down to the base. If the depths are still dry, repeat spraying with exposure. Small residues are cleaned off with a drill and a cord brush.
After the ceiling has naturally dried (forced drying is also not prohibited), beacons are installed in increments slightly less than the width of the widest rigid trowel. First plaster between the beacons with a medium spatula in layers of no more than 7 mm; the mixture should not stick to the ceiling without lubrication. Knead and apply in small portions. Kneading - with a trowel, no more than 3-4 minutes; production of the next portion – no more than 5 minutes. At this stage, an assistant is needed: before the next portion is produced, the next one must be ready.
The penultimate layer is applied with a wide, hard spatula to the level of the beacons, and then a thin, 1-2 mm, last layer is applied with the same trowel to hide the beacons. It is applied in wide, single strokes; This is a very important stage and requires quite strong skills. Once dry, the smallest irregularities (droplets, “sausages”) are removed with a block of abrasive, but it is unacceptable to re-coat it after it’s dried.
Note: Plastering the ceiling is made much easier and simpler if you first stick a PVA masking bandage onto the base surface. The extra expense is small, but the result is higher quality work.
The work is completed by applying the finishing plaster with a layer of 1-2 mm (no more!) in the same way. Here you need to be even more careful and have steadier hands: rubbing with an abrasive after painting will create irregularities visible in oblique light. It’s easier with wallpaper, especially with non-woven wallpaper: bumps and depressions up to 1 mm are lost on them.
Video: ceiling plaster
Overhaul
Major repairs of the ceiling can be carried out both over the entire area and in individual defective areas. It differs from simple replastering (those who have done it will grin - simple... what else can I say...)? It differs from the mandatory drying after removing the plaster, sealing cracks and moisture insulation.
Cracks in non-emergency ceilings appear under the seams of floor slabs - rustics. After removing the plaster, they are cleaned down to concrete using a hammer drill, first with the narrowest chisel. If the slabs are adjacent to each other closely, it is enough to treat the ceiling with a deep-penetration concrete primer, rub over the rustic surfaces with isogypsum, having previously glued the serpyanka, dry and then plaster.
If there is a gap between the slabs, it is cleared with chisels until it falls into the void, dried, foamed with a gun with a narrow spout, and the concrete is primed. Please note - first drying, then foam, then primer! Otherwise, the foam may not stick properly to the concrete, and moisture will creep in again. After priming, the rusts are covered with plaster and work continues.
In case of partial repair, the defective area is plastered without beacons, by eye, having previously selected the tone of the finish. This is delicate, painstaking and responsible work; If the ceiling needs to be painted, it is best to entrust it to professionals. If you do it yourself, the renovated place will most likely stand out in some way.
After leaking and painting with oil paint
After soaking or flooding from a neighbor (not from the roof), not even with fecal water, after removing the plaster and drying it is necessary to remove dirt, contamination and/or oil from the ceiling. A sign of an “oil” ceiling – vague yellowish spots indeterminate form, without salt deposits and swelling of the plaster along the contour of the stain.
They disinfect and neutralize “chemistry” with “Whiteness”, concentrated, not diluted. Precautionary and protective measures are the most serious: chlorine oxidizer is very aggressive, contact with the skin, inside and mucous membranes is unacceptable.
In the last two cases, you must immediately consult a doctor, even an ambulance, and if it gets into your eyes, immediately rinse them with plenty of running water. In case of contact with skin, immediately wash the affected area thoroughly under running tap and soap.
Disinfect and neutralize with a large thick foam sponge in a shallow plastic tray. The sponge should protrude 3-4 cm above the edge of the tray; its depth is the same.
“Whiteness” is poured onto the foam rubber placed in the pallet, running over its surface in a thin stream until half of it seeps onto the pallet. Then the tray with the sponge is pressed against the ceiling. Will begin chemical reaction: hissing, foam, stench. When it weakens, the foam is turned over and applied again. It hasn’t strengthened – it’s enough here, we process the adjacent piece with some overlap.
During partial repairs, processing is carried out in a spiral from the edges to the center of the defect, so as not to disperse the contamination under the remaining plaster, but, on the contrary, to drive them to the center. There is no point in running foam rubber with an oxidizer across the ceiling; it’s the same as spreading dirt evenly over the entire floor area when cleaning. As the oxidizer is consumed, the foam rubber is poured over it in a thin stream, as at the beginning.
The next stage of chemical treatment is impregnation with a biocide - a solution of copper sulfate. It is not volatile, but very poisonous; if ingested, it can lead to a fatal (and extremely painful) outcome, so we do not relax our precautions.
Important! Copper sulfate does not dissolve or neutralize existing contaminants; it kills germs of infection that are left “for later.” Copper sulfate absorbed into the mass of the material, especially under plaster, is not dangerous, so there is no need to be afraid of living in the room after renovation.
Vitriol is diluted in a plastic bucket to a deep blue color and applied to the surface to be treated with a sponge paint roller. After drying, wipe the treated surface with a damp sponge, possibly with dishwashing detergent. The sponge is hidden in a plastic bag and thrown directly into the trash or into the garbage chute. Now you can continue the repairs.
Bottom line
So, now you know how to repair the ceiling with your own hands. Let us conclude by emphasizing the following points.
Not everyone is lucky with neighbors, and it often happens that repairs have to be made in the apartment due to the fault of the residents above. Having agreed on compensation for damage, you will still have to eliminate the consequences. We will talk about repairing the ceiling after a leak.
Tools and materials. Protective measures
Before you begin the repair itself, you need to prepare everything necessary tools and consumables. After this, you should protect the furniture and walls, as well as take protective measures for your own safety.
- Tassels different sizes(Round and Flat)
- Spatulas with flexible and rigid blades
- Two rollers with a long handle, sponge and fluff
- Sandpaper of different types
- Wire brush
- Hammer, not too massive
- Drill with attachment for stirring solutions
- Angular grinder
- Level from 1000 mm
- Foam gun
- Several plastic buckets
- Spray
- Vacuum cleaner
- Master OK
- Containers for paint and primer, trays for putty
- Ladder, stepladder or high, sturdy table
During work, substances harmful to the body will certainly be released. Construction dust and rust have a negative impact on the lungs, respiratory tract and eyes. Toxic emissions when working with paints, putty, and stain removers are extremely harmful and have a bad effect on the liver, especially indoors. Taking measures for your own safety is easier than spending money on treatment afterwards.
- Construction respirator (gauze bandages and masks are not suitable)
- Construction glasses
- Rubber and fabric gloves
- Tight clothing that completely covers the body
- Headdress
To preserve the furniture, it is better to remove it from the room or transport it from the apartment during the renovation. If this is not possible, then cover the furniture with several layers of durable film. The floor and walls should also be covered with film.
List necessary materials will vary depending on finances and type of repair.
To paint the ceiling after a leak, 200 ml of paint per square meter. You also need a standard set of putty at the rate of 40 kg of solution per square meter. To this it is worth adding anti-rust and fungus agents.
Calculation of materials for the repair of tension, plasterboard and tiled ceilings carried out individually, depending on the degree of damage.
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Repair of a painted or whitewashed ceiling
First, it’s worth identifying the causes of leaks from the ceiling. This could be from upstairs neighbors or faulty water pipes.
Be extremely careful with electricity. If there is a lot of water, especially near the chandelier, then it is necessary to notify electricians about a possible short circuit. Turn off all electrical appliances and, if possible, turn off the power to your apartment, warning your neighbors.
Eliminating the consequences of a leak
It is necessary to act as quickly as possible. If the consequences are not corrected within 48 hours after the leak, a damp smell and the spread of mold may occur. If mold appears, remove it immediately and call a cleaning company.
If panels were installed on the ceiling, remove them, wipe them and dry them in the sun. Remove all water from the room, wipe the walls, floor and ceiling dry. The entire surface must be dry and clean.
Drying must be done as quickly as possible to prevent the spread of fungus and rot. IN short time this can be done using a hair dryer. If the stains are small and fresh, you can dry them with a regular hair dryer. You can also use air conditioners for drying. warm air and fans. Be sure to open the windows to ensure good air circulation. Drying should take at least 24 hours.
If the floors are damaged by moisture during flooding, they are dismantled and taken out to dry, and the wet panels are replaced. In apartments insulated with plasterboard panels, it is worth carefully inspecting the walls. If the panels become wet, they should also be dismantled and replaced. In general, for major ceiling repairs, it is advisable to remove and unscrew all items that may be damaged by moisture.
Cleaning and preparation for finishing
After drying and eliminating the consequences of the leak, it is necessary to begin cleaning.
Buy special means for cleaning wet surfaces. Wipe up all stains and water stains, leave disinfectants on the leak site. Water that has leaked through slabs contains a whole range of pathogenic bacteria and harmful microorganisms that can lead to health problems. If cleaning is not carried out promptly, then the spread of fungus and mold is possible, which is much more difficult to get rid of.
Before finishing, it is necessary to eliminate as much as possible all the consequences of leakage. Preparation is carried out in several steps.
- Cleaning up the old layer
Old paint, putty and plaster must be scraped off from areas of the ceiling affected by moisture. To do this, use spatulas with a hard blade, chisels and hard sandpaper. If you are not going to do a major renovation, then scraping the entire ceiling is not necessary. It is enough to clean the places where the paint has come off. At the same time it will stand out construction dust, so be sure to use a respirator. After cleaning, remove dust from the ceiling using a vacuum cleaner and rags.
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- Treatment
After cleaning the surface from paint, for prevention, walk through the leakage areas antifungal agents. It is necessary to prevent the development of corrosion - any industrial store has a product for eliminating rust. Since the substance is very strong, do not forget about safety measures, wear glasses, gloves and protective clothing. It is necessary to carefully go over all seams, corners and leakage areas with the solution. Use flute brushes. The solution will react violently to areas with rust and fungus, releasing foam.
- Moisture insulation
Mix the moisture-proofing primer with water in a ratio of 1 to 3. When the solution thickens a little, apply it to the entire damaged surface of the ceiling using a roller. Leave the solution to dry for 1 day.
Finishing
If all the consequences of the leak have been eliminated, the ceiling has been dried, cleaned and treated, you can begin repairs. Finishing is carried out in several stages.
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- Putty on the damaged area
Mix the putty solution with water in proportions of 1 to 3. Apply to defective areas, smoothing seams, cracks and breaks. The layer should be even, at the level of the old primer. The putty takes a long time to dry, about 2-3 days. After finishing applying the solution, close all the windows in the apartment and leave the ceiling to dry. On the 2nd day of drying, open the windows to reduce the moisture level in the apartment.
After drying, it is necessary to inspect the ceiling for defects and stains. Stains are removed with a brush, defects are eliminated with a new layer of primer. If only damaged areas of the ceiling were primed, then it is necessary to sand them, making the surface perfectly smooth.
- Re-putty
Apply a new coat of putty to the entire surface of the ceiling. Dry for several days.
- Paint selection and painting
When repairing a ceiling after a leak with your own hands water-based paint – the best choice. The paint consumption will be about 200 ml per square meter, painting will cost about 1,500 rubles. Acrylic water-based paint is easily washed off with soap, dries in a few hours, without leaving a strong odor.
Pour some paint into a special tray and lightly wet the roller on all sides. Do not heavily lubricate the roller with paint to avoid splashes and smudges.
Using a roller, slowly roll a stripe across the ceiling. Paint the entire surface in this manner. Try to slightly overlap the stripes, move them parallel to each other, without interruptions or moving to the side. Apply more pressure to the roller as it dries.
After painting the ceiling, leave the paint to dry for about 5-7 hours. Close the windows before leaving, as drafts can ruin the paint. It is recommended to darken the room by covering the windows with sheets of paper.
After drying, apply a second coat of paint. Before doing this, you need to carefully inspect the ceiling for unevenness and smudges. There should be no roller marks or uneven layers on the surface.
Stretch ceiling repair
Stretch ceilings are least susceptible to moisture and do not require complex repairs in case of flooding. The film, which is stretched onto the ceiling, can withstand a pressure of 100 kg per square meter. The most important thing is to stop the flow of water as quickly as possible and call a professional.
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If you are not a specialist in suspended ceilings, then we do not recommend draining the water and carrying out repairs yourself. What you can do to make the process easier:
- Eliminate the flow of water;
- Remove all furniture and household appliances from the room, lay film on the floor;
- Prepare several deep buckets. If there is too much water, then it would be helpful to help your neighbors when draining.
Do not try to pierce the ceiling to drain the water, as this will damage the material and will have to be completely replaced.
After draining the water, all that remains is to dry the film. After drying, the material will return to its previous shape and can be reinstalled.
Repair of plasterboard ceiling
Drywall is the most vulnerable material to moisture. The difficulty of repair is that you can determine the location of the leak only after deformation of the material.
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The following actions can be taken immediately after a flood:
- If wet spots have formed on the surface, it is necessary to cut out this area so that water does not accumulate under the ceiling and spread further;
- Bring a mirror and a flashlight to the hole, assess the extent of water spread;
- Tap on likely leak areas. Normally, the sound should be clear, but if it is dull, this section needs to be dismantled.
After a leak, repairing the ceiling is not particularly difficult and is carried out in several steps:
- Cut out areas affected by moisture or dismantle the sheet if it is completely unusable;
- Insert new pieces of drywall to fit. They should fit snugly to the edges of the sheet; use a paint knife to insert;
- Caulk the seams;
- Level the surface with sandpaper;
- Painting takes place in the standard manner. Apply several layers of paint to the entire surface, inspect for unevenness and defects.
Tile ceiling repair
To repair a tile covering, it is enough to remove the panels or tiles from the ceiling, dry them and replace the damaged components.
The advantage of tile covering is that it is resistant to moisture. That is why bathrooms are covered with tiles. PVC panels are also immune to moisture.
But if you have wood panels installed, then you need to take into account several nuances:
- If wood has absorbed moisture, it will soften, so care must be taken when removing panels;
- When drying wood panels, do not use heating devices and hair dryers, the wood may crack.
The ceiling may seem like an inconspicuous surface only at first glance. In fact, with his appearance The perception of the entire interior of the room is connected. Therefore, the coating must be kept clean. But there are situations that are beyond our control, and a yellow spot may appear on the ceiling in the apartment after flooding by neighbors or rust may form. For such cases, there are many ways that you can use to restore the ceiling to its original appearance.
Causes of stains on the ceiling
Unsightly drips on ceiling surface may arise suddenly, ruining the impression of general finishing and repairs. But, before you take action, you need to try to find out the reasons for the appearance of yellow spots on the ceiling. The most common are:
- damaged roof structure is a problem for those people who live on the upper floors of high-rise buildings. The result is the presence of unsightly smudges on the ceiling;
- dilapidated pipeline and communication systems;
- neighbors with top floor who had the temerity to forget to close the taps and flooded you;
- excessive humidity, dampness in the room;
- lack of normal ventilation.
Under the influence of these circumstances, yellow stains and ugly spots appear on the ceiling, and sometimes fungus and mold appear. All this creates a favorable environment for the spread of dampness throughout the apartment and the accumulation of condensation in large quantities.
Therefore, the pressing question often arises of how to remove a yellow stain from the ceiling if it appears.
Types of stains and methods of removal
After you manage to solve the problem with the factor that caused the stain and eliminate it, you can move on to eliminating the stain itself.
The method of dealing with it depends on the type of stain and the cause of its appearance.
Usually, after a leak, rusty and wet blots do not affect the entire ceiling surface, but only certain areas on it.
The algorithm of actions in such a situation will be as follows:
- first you need to remove rust from the ceiling, to do this we clean the dirty area;
- using a spatula, remove the layer of paint and plaster to the base;
- leave the ceiling for a while to dry completely;
- we clean the surface with sandpaper, carefully smoothing out all the irregularities;
- remove dust with a dry paint brush;
- apply a deep penetration primer with a roller to improve the adhesive properties of the ceiling with the finishing mixture;
- again leave the area to dry;
- putty, dry, clean the surface with sandpaper.
Now all you have to do is paint or whitewash the restored area, depending on the finishing method.
A grease dissolving product removes this type of stain well. Prepare the following solution:
- water – 100 ml;
- ammonia – 1 teaspoon;
- gel, dishwashing detergent or other liquid - 1 teaspoon.
You must proceed as follows:
- clean the dirty area down to the plaster or drywall;
- apply the prepared product to the oily area, wait a few minutes;
- rinse well with a wet sponge and dry the surface;
- Apply a layer of primer to the area and paint with oil paint;
- leave for a day to dry;
- seal the repair area with acrylic putty, dry, sandpaper, prime again;
- Next, paint the surface with paint that matches the shade of the entire ceiling.
Stains after painting
If, after completing the repair, you see that the ceiling is painted unevenly, you should not rush to whiten the surface and apply coloring composition new layers. This will not improve the situation, but will only worsen the situation.
There may be several reasons why stains form on the ceiling after painting:
- you applied the paint too slowly, so the treated areas had time to dry while working;
- low-quality materials were used and fluff from a roller or brush is visible on the surface;
- the ceiling was unevenly primed;
- the paint was applied in only one direction.
To correct finishing flaws, you must:
- sand the ceiling with fine-grained sandpaper until completely level;
- apply a layer of putty, let it dry and sand again a little;
- Cover the surface with two layers of primer.
Next, you can begin repainting the ceiling. To ensure that your efforts are not in vain, it is necessary to ensure good lighting in the room where the work is being carried out, and optimal level humidity. You need to move the roller in different directions, then there will be no unsightly stripes.
Moisture stains
If the yellowness on your ceilings is the result of a leak, stain removal is carried out as follows:
- Use a spatula to free the contaminated area from the finishing material;
- wipe the stain with “Whiteness” bleach using a sponge;
- wait until it dries completely. If the stain was not removed the first time, repeat the procedure;
- prime the affected area with a solution of copper sulfate, level with hydrophobic putty;
- After 24 hours, treat the surface with a primer, and after drying, paint the area where the work was done.
If somehow drops of champagne get on your ceiling, do not rush to take radical action and clean the painted coating. Try proven ones traditional methods. These include:
- a mixture of ammonia and table salt;
- industrial stain removers;
- delicate bleaches for clothes.
Using all these tools is very simple. It is necessary to blot the unsightly stain with a sponge soaked in the solution and wait a few minutes until it dries. Usually, after the first use of this technique, not a trace remains of the splash drops. If your attempts are unsuccessful, you will have to fork out for a cleaning spray, which is used to remove stubborn dirt, or redecorating damaged area. To do this, you need to clean the stain, plaster the area where it is located and paint over it or whitewash it. When this approach does not bring the desired result, you will need to repair the entire ceiling.
How to remove yellow stains from the ceiling
Unfortunately, such a nuisance can happen not only with traditional painted or whitewashed ceilings, but also with other more expensive finishing methods. Therefore, removing yellow spots from such surfaces must be done very carefully so as not to harm the decorative coating.
There are many ways you can use to remove stains from hanging plasterboard ceiling. These can be household stain removers, improvised means in the form of bleach or ammonia, re-painting, etc. If the use of all these methods does not bring the desired result, you will need to repair the area affected by the stain:
- clean it with coarse sandpaper;
- coat the treated area with medium viscosity;
- then apply a layer of finishing putty;
- After the finish has dried, sand the area with fine-grained sandpaper and prime.
Now you can paint the entire ceiling or limit yourself to the area where the stain was located.
First of all, you need to deal with . If you have fabric ceilings, then after drying, you can paint them with suitable paint. However, in this case it will be necessary to apply at least five layers of paint.
You can use dishwashing liquid or a solution of water and laundry soap.
When the above methods do not help, experts advise removing the stain using a solution of soda ash. It must be applied to the stained area, left to dry, and rinsed with water. Repeat the procedure several times until the contamination is completely eliminated.
Plastic ceilings
They are made from polymer materials, so it is allowed to use the same methods for them as for PVC film. Particular attention must be paid to the joints between adjacent panels. This is where bacteria most often accumulate and mold develops. Any stains that appear in these areas can be bleached with “Whiteness” and rinsed well with warm water.
Rules for caring for foam ceiling tiles
These products are easy to care for. An ordinary sponge and soapy water are enough. However, it is important to remember that only laminated surfaces can be washed with this method, and simple foam panels must be wiped with a dry sponge or vacuumed. It is prohibited to use various types of solvents in care, for example, compositions containing gasoline or acetone.
These two unpleasant phenomena not only look unsightly on the ceiling surface, but can also pose a serious health threat. First of all, you will need to find out the cause of the bacteria, eliminate it, and also establish ventilation in the room.
To remove mold or mildew, you will have to completely clean the affected area from the finish and disinfect it with special antifungal drugs. Then whitewash with an antifungal primer and restore the original finish.
To prevent the appearance of stains on the ceiling in the future, the following preventive measures are necessary:
- Even during the repair, ensure high-quality waterproofing of the ceiling, level and degrease the base surface;
- regularly check the condition of the water supply and sewerage systems;
- Monitor the performance of the ventilation, eliminate malfunctions and blockages in a timely manner.
Well, of course, no one can be protected from such a nuisance as a flood from the top floor. But, if incidents have already happened to you, and the neighbors living above you have repeatedly flooded your home, do not spend money on repairs on your own. Contact higher authorities and demand that renovation work the culprits paid.
Of course, you will choose the appropriate option for removing the yellow stain on the ceiling yourself, taking into account the method of finishing and Construction Materials that were used during the renovation. Most importantly, do not forget that the first step in solving this issue is to find the source of your problem.
Yellow stains from water leaks - how to eliminate video
