Detailed instructions for building a stove. Subtleties of self-laying a stove. Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design

Most domestic holiday villages do not yet have the opportunity to connect to centralized communications. In terms of infrastructure, it’s good if there are asphalt roads and power lines. In such conditions, building a brick stove for a wood-burning cottage will help solve an important problem: it will provide thermal energy for heating rooms and for cooking.

We have selected for you diagrams and orders of the simplest stove structures, the laying of which can be handled by a novice master. With our help, home craftsmen will easily master the basics of a difficult, but extremely interesting activities stove maker An impeccably constructed structure will delight both the owner and household members.

Except detailed description technology for laying brick stoves, we provide valuable recommendations on the selection of materials for the construction of units. The article meticulously describes significant subtleties and the smallest nuances. To help independent stove makers, diagrams of stove structures, operational instructions, photos and video tutorials are included.

Proper selection of material for a structure exposed to high temperatures is an important part of the job of a trained stove maker. After all, the unit will be operated in far from difficult conditions, and it should not malfunction, crack or collapse.

Option #1 – stove with a single burner panel

This is an extremely simple and compact design, seemingly elongated in the vertical direction. In the example, it is equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to monitor the process. If it is not possible to purchase just such a door, the cast iron variety is quite suitable.

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What should we do for those who have not succeeded either with money or with skill? A simple one will help brick stove, which even a “humanitarian” can put together.

The article discusses two options. The first one is suitable for those who want more or less “decent” heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who generally do not pretend to be either a penchant for handicraft or any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. Simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective stove?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating devices - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flames.

The structure occupies just over half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require a foundation. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a strong base - it is enough to lay a strong board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of this option is that starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they do not go beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required to build stoves. But it is necessary to maintain order - this will make the design as effective as possible in the context of its potential.

What will you need for the job?

It is not only simple, but also a budget option. To build the structure you will need:

• brick:
• *fireclay – 37 pcs.;
• *red – 60 pcs.;
• ash door;
• firebox door;
• lattice;
• valve;
• hob made of cast iron.

As a binder - clay mortar. In total you will need about 20-25 liters of the mixture.

Preparation

The first step is to decide on the location of the stove. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no limitations inherent in traditional brick solutions. By securing strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

The role of an insulator can be played by a non-flammable material - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing felt is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the dimensions of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base level - the quality of the design and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

Figure 2. The order of the stove masonry The stove order is as follows:

1. The first row is laid on sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly. The bricks are coated with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted at the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
2. After fixing the door with wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a ash pit.
3. Fireclay is used (in the diagram it has a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is installed above the ash pit.
4. Before this, bricks were laid flat. On this row it is placed on its edge. A smoke exhaust channel is formed, inside which a base for the partition is made. One of the bricks (seen in the illustration) is laid “dry” - it will later be removed. After this, the firebox door is installed, which is wrapped several times with asbestos strips before installation. But this must be done so that the door opens well to the top. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
5. The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
6. Again the “rib” row is the second and last row in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
7. The brick is laid flat according to the diagram. The back wall is made using the edge-on format again.
8. This row closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove will be used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
9. The bricks are moved slightly towards the back wall to support the firebox door. Strips of asbestos soaked in water are laid in front of the brickwork. Thanks to this, they ensure sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. A cast iron panel cannot be placed directly on a clay solution, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to the appearance of cracks.
10. At this stage, the formation of the smoke exhaust pipe begins. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back side. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
11. A valve sealed with asbestos strips is installed here. It is recommended to pre-coat the latter with clay mortar. This is the final row, which is used to complete the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining couple of rows are given to the chimney, which will then be connected to a lighter metal channel.

After this, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke exhaust duct and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not require serious decorations. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation of a yellow coating and bleaching.

Important! Brick and metal should be protected before work. If this is not done (for example, using film), you will not be able to get rid of the stains.

It is necessary to coat the seams between the brick and the metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between the ceramics and cast iron.

It is imperative to close the joint between the stove brick and the floor. This will prevent oven sand from getting into the room. It is advisable to cover the joint with an L-shaped sheet. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves as both decor and additional element, preventing the “foundation” bedding from spilling out.

Figure 3. Functioning oven

The stove is ready. The entire process took no more than one working day. Now you can try making low-power kindling. You cannot use logs - only wood chips or paper. Wood burning will create too much high temperature, and the structure will crack. For the mixture to fully set, you need to give it a week or two. After this, you can already heat it “like an adult.”

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), we can offer an extremely simplified heating design. You can lay out this oven with your own hands in literally an hour, even if your hands are far from being called golden.

Figure 4. The simplest version of a brick oven

The operating principle of the structure is simple. Solid fuel burns below, and settles here under the influence of its own mass. Temperature changes create a draft that carries hot air currents upward. In this case, the firewood burns almost without a residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry you will need only two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that there is no point in describing the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Arrangement of the simplest brick structure If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. It is recommended to bind the bricks with clay mortar. But in hiking conditions You can do without any binding material - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.

Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Diagram of a simple stove. According to this diagram, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed for loading firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney duct.

Figure 9. L-shaped stove

To create this structure you will also need 20-30 bricks. This option can be completed by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a mason are completely absent. A specialist will complete the construction in a matter of minutes.

Advantages of the simplest furnace designs

Advantages of the designs:

• Very high speed installation – from a day to several minutes;
• does not require a foundation; the stove can be folded anywhere; and if you do not use a binder mixture, the stove comes out collapsible and can be easily moved;
• as fuel - everything that burns: logs, branches, cones, corn stalks, leaves, chipboard, furniture remains, etc.;
• fuel consumption is several times less than, for example, in the case of a potbelly stove;
• the simplest option - without using clay - allows you to get greater heat transfer than from a fire; therefore, such structures are a godsend for those who do not want to constantly maintain a fire while camping;
• almost complete absence of smoke - fuel burns with a minimum of waste;
• the temperature of the bricks reaches 1000 degrees – good heating and fast cooking are guaranteed.

Conclusion

Figure 10. Another L-shaped option

Even the most advanced version of this review does not require qualifications and a lot of time. The choice of design depends on the goals of the stove maker. In a stationary case, the first option is suitable. For mobile situations and completely inexperienced users, it is better to use even more simplified schemes.

znatoktepla.ru

How to build a brick stove for a home or cottage

Despite the development of new technologies, a conventional wood-burning brick stove continues to remain one of the popular heat sources for private and country houses, as well as garages and other outbuildings. But building even the simplest stove requires significant financial costs, which is why many homeowners are interested in whether it is possible to build it themselves and how best to do it.

To help them save on construction costs, this material tells how to correctly build a simple brick stove with your own hands, intended for heating a residential building or cottage.

Selection of furnace design

It is no secret that there are countless different designs for wood-burning brick stoves, and stove makers are constantly coming up with new designs. That is why a person who decides to master the basics of baking will find it difficult to choose among them. Therefore, you should first give clear answers to the following questions:

1. What tasks should a brick stove solve in your home? Will it be for heating purposes only, or will it be used to cook food and heat water?
2. How much space are you willing to allocate for the construction of a stove when building a new house?
3. If the cottage or house has already been built, then you need to think about the location of the heater and the passage of the ceilings with the chimney pipe. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the construction of a separate foundation.
4. Decide on the design in advance; you may want to build a fireplace stove with panoramic glass.

Advice. At first, a beginner should not take on the task of laying a serious brick stove in the house, but to begin with, build something simple and small in the yard - a barbecue or grill, fortunately, quite a lot of such projects have been published. After practicing and becoming more experienced, you will understand the nuances of this work and begin building a home heater with more confidence.

Scheme of an outdoor barbecue with cabinets

Of course, an ignorant person is unlikely to be able to immediately build a beautiful stove with a built-in panoramic glass with his own hands. But you can always invite a stove-maker to carry out this work and provide consultation. As a rule, these people are friendly, since the construction of a home must always be approached with soul. As for choosing a project, you are offered 3 simple options:

• a regular 2-burner hob with a tank for heating water;
• duct heating stove - Dutch;
• heating and cooking stove of classical design.

The technology for building the original rocket stove is presented in our separate guide.

Cooker with water boiler

This stove has dimensions of 890 x 510 mm and is designed for cooking with simultaneous heating of water in a tank located in the path leaving the firebox flue gases. The total heat output of the stove is 1.2 kW when adding firewood twice a day. Below this furnace is presented in drawings with sections:

Such a small-sized brick oven, built with your own hands, is quite simple to make and will take up little space in the kitchen. Subsequently, a heating shield can be attached to it in order to extract more heat from the flue gases. The masonry diagram below shows the order of the furnace:

To assemble the hob yourself, you must purchase the following materials and stove accessories in advance:

• solid ceramic brick – 185 pcs.;
• cast iron stove with 2 burners measuring 530 x 180;
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 130 x 140, inspection door 130 x 140;
• equal angle corner 30 x 4 – 3.6 m;
• oven 320 x 270 x 400;
• water tank 150 x 350 x 450.

Also, for lining under the stove you will need roofing steel and asbestos sheets measuring 115 x 64 cm, and for laying in front of the stove on the floor you need a sheet of metal 50 x 70 cm.

Dutch duct stove

This classic heating stove channel type, shown in the photo, actually comes from Holland. Its advantages are its simplicity and undemanding quality of materials, and the body of the stove can be increased to any height and thus heat rooms on two floors. In addition, the Dutch oven can be safely considered a mini-oven, since it takes up very little space in the plan.

Making a simple 3-channel Dutch oven, shown in the drawing below, will not be very difficult for an experienced craftsman. A beginner will have to work hard to make high-quality masonry with plan dimensions of 1010 x 510 mm, extending to a height of more than 2 m plus the chimney. But first, it is suggested that you familiarize yourself with the laying diagram of this brick kiln and the order:

For construction you will need the following materials:

• solid ceramic brick – 390 pcs.;
• grates 250 x 250 (cast iron or steel grate);
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 140 x 140, inspection door 140 x 140;
• metal valve 130 x 130;
• asbestos sheet 1000 x 500;
• the same sheet of roofing steel.

Heating and cooking stove

The design of this heat source is more complex, although outwardly the stove resembles the same Dutch oven. Its dimensions are 650 x 510 mm, and the developed thermal power is about 1.5 kW. By the name of the brick stove - heating and cooking - it is easy to understand that it is intended both for heating rooms in the house and for cooking. The construction diagram is shown in the figure:

Combination stove diagram

Important point. If you carefully study the diagram, you can understand that summer operation is not provided for in this simple design.

This means that cooking on a stove in the summer will be hot if it is located in the house. You will have to cook in a different way or choose a more suitable heat source design. Homeowners who are not embarrassed by this fact are offered a list of materials and procedures to successfully build a brick stove:

• solid ceramic brick – 211 pcs.;
• cast iron stove for 1 burner, size 360 ​​x 410;
• grate bars 250 x 250;
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 130 x 140, inspection door 130 x 140, ventilation 130 x 75;
• equal angle corner 32 x 4 – 300 mm;
• valve 140 x 140;
• knitting wire with a diameter of 1.5 - 5 m.

What kind of brick should the stove be made of?

The main building material for the construction of the furnace is red ceramic brick grade 150, made from baked clay. Its dimensions are standard - 250 x 120 x 65 mm, although in past times other stones were also produced for stove making. But now all the dimensions are unified, so the fireclay (fireproof) brick, from which the firebox of the stove is often laid, is the same in size as a regular one.

Stone with a height of 88 mm is still used in construction, but it is not suitable for laying stoves because it has voids. Here, only solid material that does not have voids or cracks is required. For the latter, you need to carefully study each unit; a brick is required for work good quality. True, there is one exception - a Dutch oven; it can also be made from lower quality stones. But you shouldn’t go to the point of absurdity; a heat source made of cobblestones definitely won’t provide heat.

The fact is that a heating and cooking stove, built with your own hands from low-quality red brick, can crack even at the stage of drying of the masonry mortar. It should be noted that the clay mortar dries, and does not harden, like cement. Therefore, beginners are not recommended to experiment with bad or used bricks, otherwise the newly built stove will immediately require repairs.

Fireclay stone for forming a firebox

A separate recommendation concerns masonry mortar. At first, you should not go to the nearest ravine for clay, because it still needs to be brought to the correct condition. It is better to buy a ready-made building mixture for laying stoves, clay or fireclay.

How to build a stove correctly

In the vast majority of cases, construction begins with the construction of a foundation for a future heat source. An exception may be outdoor mini-ovens, which due to their low weight are sometimes placed directly on the concrete screed of the yard. All others, regardless of location, must be built on a solid foundation. Moreover, it is not allowed for the foundation of the stove to be connected to the base of the house or placed close to it; it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm, and preferably 10.

Important. Failure to comply with this requirement may lead to the fact that after a year or two the stove may crack and even deviate from the vertical.

If the house has a good foundation in the form of a cement screed, and the total weight of the stove does not exceed 750 kg, then a foundation is not required; masonry can begin directly from the screed, having previously laid sheets of asbestos and roofing steel. Given in previous section the structures weigh over 750 kg, and therefore it is necessary to provide a reliable foundation for them. There are 2 types of foundations for the furnace: rubble and reinforced concrete.

Regardless of the type of base, you first need to dig a hole whose dimensions exceed the area of ​​the stove by 10 cm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of chernozem or other subsidence soil, while the base of the foundation should rest on a denser layer. In the first case, the pit is laid with rubble stone and dressing, using a solution of the following components:

• sand – 6 parts;
• cement – ​​1 part;
• lime mixed with water - 1 part.

All voids between the stones are also filled with this solution, and the upper part, located at a depth of 80 mm from the floor, is also leveled with it. The reinforced concrete base is poured with formwork and reinforcing mesh, having previously poured a 10 cm thick cushion of crushed stone onto the bottom of the pit.

Important. After the mortar or concrete has hardened, a waterproofing barrier made of roofing felt in 2 layers must be laid on top of the foundation.

The furnace is laid according to the procedures, observing the thickness of the joints within 3-5 mm. After laying each row, it is necessary to control compliance with the vertical and horizontal using a plumb line and a building level. The mortar can be applied to the brick with a trowel or by hand; light tapping of the stone after placing it in place is allowed.

The remaining mortar is removed from both sides of the wall, and the inside is wiped with a wet rag to create a more smooth surface. This is necessary to ensure the least resistance to flue gases.

When installing fittings and water tanks, it is important to ensure that there are no gaps between the masonry and the metal surface; the joints must be carefully filled with a solution, otherwise the stove will begin to smoke. Upon completion of construction, it is necessary to wait 2 days until the solution dries completely, after which you can test fire the stove, starting with a small amount of firewood. How to build a small stove at home is described in detail in the video:

How can you paint a stove?

It is clear that a newly minted master will not be able to build a beautiful stove the first time due to lack of experience. But this is a fixable matter, because the outside of a brick wall can be lined with paint. Previously, they were plastered and covered with two layers of chalk or lime whitewash, but now there are simpler and more convenient means. In addition, lime is easily transferred to clothing by accidental touch and constantly needs to be renewed.

If we talk about how to paint a brick stove, here are the following options:

• organosilicon heat-resistant enamel of the KO brand, designed for high temperatures;
• silicate or acrylic paints;
• heat-resistant varnish (for example, PF-238) mixed with dye.

The most preferred option is transparent enamel KO-85, KO-174 and KO-813. It is suitable both for the stove itself and for painting metal parts, since it can withstand temperatures up to 600 °C. Silicate and acrylic paints will not last as long, but they are also cheaper. The oven can also be painted with transparent varnish PF-238 or mixed with gouache of the required color, as shown in the photo:

In any case, the coating is applied 2 times, the second layer is applied after the first has dried. The tools used are a brush and a roller. It is advisable to pre-treat the surface with a special primer intended specifically for such purposes.

Conclusion

Of course, it is impossible to deeply reveal all the nuances of the complex furnace business within the framework of one article; only the basics are given here. For a beginner home handyman Before getting down to business, it is advisable to study the relevant literature in order to successfully build your first stove. It is equally important to carry out preparatory stage, choose the right materials, tools and equipment.

otivent.com

How to build a stove with your own hands - brick laying technology, tips + Video

It’s not difficult to build a brick stove that is always ready to warm any home. You just need to learn some of the intricacies of building brick stoves and use the knowledge gained correctly.

What kind of brick oven can you install in your home and where is the best place to do it?

Based on functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. Cookers have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in dachas and small private houses where people do not live in winter. In principle, a cooking stove can heat not large area, but its main task is not this, but cooking.

Heating units are intended exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, which is why they usually have very compact sizes. Cooking and heating stoves are a combination of the first two types of brick stoves, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Cooking and heating furnace

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke during kindling and combustion, and also create comfortable living conditions in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in the home where you want to put the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

• You cannot build a heating device near external wall residential building due to the fact that it will begin to cool down very quickly due to exposure to cold air from outside.
• Place the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of ​​the home is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts - living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room, and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall or mounted directly under it is more suitable.
• To simplify the masonry, it is advisable to find a correctly compiled ordering diagram for a specific type of stove.
• If the stove is built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance.

Note that large heating devices (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on a separate foundation. Moreover, it should not have a (mechanical) connection with the foundation of the building (this requirement must also be observed when the house and stove are being built together).

Making a foundation and choosing a brick to build a stove

If a relatively small stove is being built in an already operating house with a slab concrete foundation, it is allowed to mount it directly on the existing foundation. You only need to lay roofing felt on the concrete floor.

When the flooring of a building is made of wood or the house is standing on strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate base for the heating device.

You can do it yourself using this scheme:

1. We mark a place on the floor for the future brick stove.
2. We remove the marked part of the floor covering and dig a pit in the ground underneath it (its depth should be about half a meter).
3. At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - crushed stone (the thickness is the same), compact the resulting “pillow”.
4. We place plank formwork for the foundation along the perimeter of the pit (it is raised about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
5. We fill half of the hole under the stove foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, and wait for it to harden.
6. We fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit has firmly set), which it is advisable to make more “thin” (add a little more water to it).

Base for heating device

After this, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation using the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and purchase bricks, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, fireproof, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks are used, as well as hand-molded products. All these materials should be selected according to their markings, which indicate their strength. A brick oven in a house should be constructed from special products of grades M150–M200, having:

• uniform color;
• straight edges with no chips or cracks;
• geometrically correct shape;
• dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with these parameters, since most of the ordering patterns are developed for them).

Special kiln bricks

It is allowed to use not kiln brick, but fireclay. But be prepared for the fact that a stove made of fireclay material will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. On the outside, fireclay products are faced with ceramic bricks. This is a must. This finish is also recommended for heating structures built from special stove bricks.

Masonry stove mortars - what should they be?

Before you build the stove with your own hands, you should understand the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Typically, masonry mortars based on sand and clay are used (white kaolin or fireclay marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you feel that there is any smell (unpleasant or pleasant) coming from fireclay clay, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. This clay is not suitable for laying a stove. You can take any sand, the main thing is that there are no foreign impurities in it.

Clay with sand

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined experimentally by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

• pour 1 kg of clay with plain water and leave for 24 hours until the composition sours;
• knead the clay until it becomes plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
• divide the batch into 3–5 parts and add sand to different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
• knead the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples must be carefully rolled out into 30–40 cm long “sausages” with a cross-section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around a round piece of larger diameter. After this, wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). All that remains is to analyze the quality of the solutions.

Checking the quality of masonry mortar

If microscopic cracks have formed on the “sausage” or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this test. With cracks no more than 2 mm deep, the solution can be used for laying those areas heating structure, which do not warm up above 280–300 °C. If the “sausages” are covered with tears and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it to construct a furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase from hardware store ready mixture for furnace work. If you don’t want to bother with creating the “ideal” mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the order scheme you have chosen for a specific model. furnace design, and also decide on the type of masonry. Common methods of installing bricks are masonry with empty joints and undercuts. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - the solution is present in all seams. But when performing work with empty seams, plastering the constructed stove is a mandatory operation.

Order diagram for the furnace structure

In order to avoid making fatal mistakes, beginners in the construction of home heating structures are recommended to pre-lay bricks without using a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order using 5 mm thick slats. They are placed between rows of bricks. In fact, the slats “replace” the mortar.

Once you have built the entire oven dry and are sure that everything was done correctly, begin to disassemble the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will go much faster for you.

Furnace finishing process

• vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar to avoid the possibility of delamination of the structure;
• each brick in the masonry must rest on at least two others;
• the smallest seam width is 2 mm;
• you need to bandage all rows vertically;
• the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken to be about 5–7 mm; after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2–3 mm (it is permissible to lightly tap the rows with a rubber hammer);
• when using ceramic bricks, they are dipped in ordinary water for a couple of seconds, due to which they stick to the mortar without any problems; there is no need to “bathe” fireclay products;
• Before laying, bricks should be cleaned from dust and crumbs with a hair brush (this operation is called mopping).

A few more important points. The bricks are placed in their designated place one at a time. If a stone falls “by”, it must be removed, the clay-sand mixture removed from it, and then placed again. The mortar that was removed from the bricks is not used in the future.

We carry out the laying of the furnace ourselves using clear and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully leveled and the locations of all the doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After this, you need to establish the position of the corner stones and lay them on the solution.

We use a level to accurately align the horizontal position of the bricks, as well as a tape measure to check the diagonal and plan dimensions of the structure being built. Now you can lay the first row on the sand-clay mixture, starting work from the middle of the row.

Laying the first row on a sand-clay mixture

The verticality of the entire contour of a brick stove during its construction is controlled by means of a simple device - plumb lines stretched on a string from the ceiling to the stove corners. The lines made in this way will become an excellent guide for masonry. Having completed the first row, we lay the second row according to a similar pattern:

• put the stones in their place in the corners;
• We check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
• lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way we lay the third and subsequent rows of brick. Do not forget to constantly check the stove construction plan (with the order). It is imperative to clean the outer and inner parts of the stones from excess mortar using a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of stove, choose the location of the firebox, blower, and ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the ash compartment is most often made after the third row of bricks, and the ash pan after the fifth.

When laying a stove, you should adhere to the important principle of tying the stones used, which involves covering the next row of each vertical seam with brick. It is desirable that the vertical connection is located clearly in the center of the brick of the next row. In practice, such an “idyll” is rarely achieved. In this case, try to ensure that the seam shift is a maximum of a quarter of the stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called the pre-furnace). It will hide the small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, it is not so difficult to lay out a brick oven with your own hands.

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How to properly build a brick oven

Stove heating is not going to outlive itself at all. Wood-burning stoves made of brick continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by the owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much does it cost to hire a master stove-maker to build and buy necessary materials. The only way to save money is to build a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - procedures presented later in the article. Of course, a beginner cannot build a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench, but you can overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Projects of simple brick stoves

The first thing you should worry about is choosing a home heater design that can meet your heating needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs, proven by many years of practice:

• duct-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch stove;
• hob with oven and tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
• Swedish - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Duct stove - Dutch

Folding the Dutchman shown in the picture yourself is quite simple. It is small in plan, but it can be placed indefinitely in height, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two- or three-story small house or cottage if you build a Dutch oven with a passage through the ceilings. A duct stove successfully burns wood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats rooms, although it cannot be called economical.

Reference. The Dutch oven warms up quickly, and after extinguishing it does not give off heat for long; the duration of combustion from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Its strengths are its ease of construction and low fuel requirements.

The plate shown in the photo is - convenient option for a country house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in the summer. A tank installed in the path of hot flue gases is capable of supplying hot water for the heating system or household needs.

Swedish brick stoves combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, release accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well with wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swedish stove is much more complicated than a hob, plus it requires more bricks and purchased iron fittings.

Swedish oven built between the walls

Drawings and orders of stoves

Dutch oven order
Cross-sectional diagram of a Dutch woman
The procedure for laying the hob
Schematic structure of the plate Ordering a Swedish oven

Any brick stove transfers heat into the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating it is necessary that the heater, or at least part of it, be located in the heated room. Taking this requirement into account, we will give some advice on choosing a place for a building in rural house and at the dacha:

1. If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to place the stove in the middle, with a slight offset to the side outer wall where the cold comes from.
2. To heat 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling some of the interior partitions.
3. Suppose there are 1-2 small rooms adjacent to the hall. You can go there water heating with radiators and circulation pump, connected to the furnace heat exchanger or tank.
4. Do not plan to install the heater close to external walls. There is no point in warming them up; some of the heat will simply go outside.
5. The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and the hob should go into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the ridge of the roof. It is better to move the building by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials located closer than 500 mm from the body of the stove must subsequently be protected with sheets of metal. It is advisable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard under them. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to the wooden roof elements located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which a do-it-yourself stove is built is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and must be solid; stones with voids inside are not used in the stove business, except perhaps for the construction of outdoor grills and barbecues.

Advice. The Dutch one is so undemanding in terms of the quality of materials that it can be made from used red brick. Only upon completion of the masonry will it be necessary to refine it, for example, cover it with tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To assemble a small-sized Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and fittings:

• red burnt brick – minimum 390 pcs.;
• grate size 25 x 25 cm;
• loading door 25 x 21 cm;
• small cleaning and blower doors 14 x 14 cm;
• metal flap 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch oven can be laid out to any desired height. The specified number of bricks is enough for construction in a one-story private house.

List of components and building materials for the hob:

• solid ceramic brick – 190 pcs.;
• grate 25 x 5 cm;
• two-burner cast iron stove size 53 x 18 cm with discs;
• fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
• metal tank - boiler with dimensions 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
• oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
• cleaning doors 13 x 14 cm – 2 pcs.;
• chimney valve;
• steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm – 4 m.

To save money, you can take on the manufacture of a tank for heating water yourself - simply weld it from metal 3, or better yet, 4 mm thick. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil inside the stove, welded with your own hands from steel pipe diameter 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is necessary to organize constant circulation using a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

To build a Swedish heating and cooking stove, you will need the same set of materials as for a stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip 40 x 4 mm and prepare fireproof (fireclay) bricks for laying the firebox. To install fittings, find soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Advice on masonry mortar. Preparing natural clay, which experienced stove makers use to lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are recommended to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for constructing stoves, which are commercially available.

Laying the foundation

Before folding the stove, you need to prepare a solid base. The structure is quite heavy, so placing it directly on floors, even flooded ones cement screed, unacceptable. The foundation of the stove is a separate structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to the walls or building a corner fireplace, you need to make a retreat of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum clearance of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are covered with screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for installing a stove foundation:

1. Dismantle the screed section and dig a pit protruding beyond the dimensions of the stove by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of subsidence soil.
2. Pour a sand cushion 100 mm high and compact it. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
3. After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt and install formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
4. Prepare concrete and pour foundation slab. For strength, you can put it there reinforcing mesh.

After 3 weeks (time for complete hardening concrete mixture) place a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt impregnated with clay mortar or basalt cardboard. After this, you can begin to lay the body of the furnace.

Base design diagram for wooden floors

To properly lay the foundation of a stove under wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (used) up to the level of the floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or crushed stone and concrete on top. Next is a sheet of metal, felt soaked in clay and a solid first row of stove masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video

In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is room heating winter time, at the same time, it is hot and healthy food, the ability to preserve crops through drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water. It cannot be said that a Russian brick stove is an ideal device. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating system is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

1. Opechek– used for storing and drying wood.
2. Cold stove- a small recess in which various utensils are stored.
3. Six- area on which you can place the pot.
4. Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth, for convenient movement of heavy utensils. It needs to be polished well.
5. Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood and cooking food. The roof of the furnace also has a slope.
6. Overpipe- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
7. Dushnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
8. View- closing door.
9. Bed- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common nowadays is the improved Russian stove.
It is distinguished by heating the underfloor part, due to which heating the room becomes more comfortable.

For masonry of the combustion chamber, fire-resistant bricks made of fireclay clay are used. The remaining part of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, for example, doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:

1. Doors: firebox and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation door for the chimney.
2. Grate;
3. Metal valves;
4. View;
5. Furnace damper;
6. Water box;
7. Plate;
8. Steel strips.

To lay out certain parts - arches and vaults - you need easily disassembled templates. They are made from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy a ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Solutions for laying stoves are selected depending on:

• If solid brick grade M150 is used for masonry, then use clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the stove with special ceramic tiles;
• Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
• When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay mortars;
• In the interim attic space brick pipes placed using cement-sand mortar;

Usually the oven is located at interior wall, which has a shallowly buried foundation. To ensure independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the stove is placed near the outer wall, on a recessed strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and backfill it with sand and gravel with careful compaction. Next, the stove is installed with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called offset. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Next, the opening is framed with special wooden stands. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house that will be equal to the width of the stove base on each side.

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands - ordering

Further masonry proceeds depending on the height of the room: From the outside, the chimney will narrow with a step in front of the ceiling, and then a pipe will be formed that will pass through the ceiling and roof. This is where DIY ends.

All that remains is to lay the pipe above the roof surface - and you can safely start heating!

There are a large number of different stoves that can be used both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and are chosen for a specific room. the right option, which will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with mandatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.

In the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with instructions can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure yourself is quite difficult, since each stove maker has his own achievements and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.

Criteria for choosing a brick kiln

If you nevertheless decide to carry out such work yourself, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to appearance and the design of the stove, but also on its heating capabilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.

When choosing a stove by size, you need to take into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning to install the stove in a particular location.

Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by their form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a couch or stove, and others.

Stoves can only be used to heat living rooms and be installed, for example, between the living room and bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between living rooms and the kitchen.

For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that could be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.

Table for choosing a stove depending on the area to be heated and the location of the rooms:

Room area, m²	Furnace surface, m²
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

All these criteria must be determined in advance, and, based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or another model.

Types of brick stoves

As mentioned above, the design of stoves can be different - both very difficult to construct and quite simple. The most famous models are “Dutch”, “Swedish”, “Russian”. Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. Thus, stoves made by Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.

• Exist heating stoves, which do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which smoke exhaust channels, fireboxes, blower and cleaning chambers pass.

• Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a water heating tank and a drying chamber.

• Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.

• There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and winter. They are often equipped with a heated couch, which can serve as the basis for a bed.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Prices for finished heating stoves

heating stoves

Choosing a place to install the stove

It is important to provide right place furnace installations. The optimal place is the crossroads of the walls of the house. If he doesn't have large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is advisable that the structure be located close to the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, then it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the entire house.

When choosing a location, you need to take into account several more factors that have important for operating the furnace:

• The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unimpeded monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
• When constructing a stove, it is necessary to provide a separate foundation for it, not connected to the foundation of the house.
• The chimney pipe must pass between the beams of the attic floor and not bump into them when it is lifted - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being erected in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
• For fire safety purposes, there must be a heat-resistant flooring made of wood on the floor in front of the fire door. metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

Basic design of a brick kiln

To know how each of the furnace elements works and what it is intended for, you need to consider the basic design of the heating structure:

• The fuel chamber is designed for loading and burning fuel. It is separated from the ash chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirected into the chimney pipe.
• The ash chamber provides a controlled air supply to the firebox and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, and therefore requires periodic cleaning.
• An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
• Cleaning chambers are necessary because soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. They are used to periodically clean the oven to maintain normal draft.

• The flue ducts running inside the stove may have different configurations in different models. Hot gaseous combustion products, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which release heat into the room.
• The channels direct smoke and combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the stove and then exiting to the outside of the building.

One of the most important conditions for efficient operation of the furnace is good draft, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the order scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the required height of the chimney pipe and its correct location on the roof.

You might be interested in learning why

Materials for building a stove

An important issue for the long-term operation of the furnace is the choice quality materials for its masonry, so you shouldn’t skimp on them. To build a building you will need:

• Red fire brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out extremely carefully.
• Fireclay brick is used to lay the combustion chamber in direct contact with the fire. It will require from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact quantity can be found out from the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick can withstand temperatures of 1450–1500°; it retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the walls of the furnace.
• Raising the stove cannot be done without brick laying mortar, which is made on the basis of clay. Stove makers advise using the Borovichevsky mortar composition - it is quite plastic during the laying process and fireproof during operation.
• Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, ash pan and cleaning chambers, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.

• Steel wire for securing cast iron elements in masonry.
• Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.

You might be interested in learning how to make a cast iron stove out of it

Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a stove, you can consider several models that should be available for laying even for beginners.

Heating stove V. Bykov

This stove is intended for heating purposes only as it does not have a stove or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, since it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is capable of heating even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, with its height without pipe being 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple to install, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, which is why the designer himself called it a “thick warm wall.” The heat transfer from the entire building is 2400 kcal/h, but at the same time side walls accounts for 920 kcal/h, and the front and rear parts of it are only 280 kcal/h. The cross-section of the smoke exhaust duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, with its front part opening into a third, for example, a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The entire design of this model is divided into two sections - the upper gas exhaust and the lower combustion chamber. There are two channels in the lower part - ascending and descending. They help heat the combustion part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the entire structure, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are ⅔ covered by horizontally laid bricks. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The duct walls not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of ​​the oven. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the release of warm air into the pipe.

For this stove model you will need the following materials:

• Red fire brick - 407 pcs.
• White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
• Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
• Grate 250×252 mm - 1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 piece; ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.

Prices for ready-made fireboxes for brick kilns

Firebox for brick kilns

Order of the Bykov furnace

The furnace is laid on a foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation should be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before starting masonry, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing - roofing felt.

Order	Description of work
	This diagram shows two zero rows, which are located below the finished floor level. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry located on the same level as the finished floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is covered with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1st row - the blower chamber is formed. Hewn bricks are installed at the entrance to it, which facilitates the removal of combustion waste. To lay this row you need 21 bricks.
	Row 2 - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. To lay this row you will need 20 bricks.
	Row 3 - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the door lugs is embedded in the masonry seams. For a row you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are laid near the installed door.
	4th row - the front part of the blower chamber is covered with bricks along with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the rotary well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks.
	Row 5 - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the ash chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which combustion waste will slide into the ash-blower chamber through a grate installed on the same row. There must be a gap of 5 mm between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. You will need 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	Row 6 - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the smoke exhaust well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	Row 7 - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. This row uses 11 whole, 2 ½ and 4 cut obliquely across the entire width of fireclay bricks.
	The 8th row is laid according to the pattern, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. It will take 15 bricks per row.
	Row 9 - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the stove is placed according to the diagram.
	Row 10 - bricks are laid according to the pattern, observing their direction. This row requires 16 bricks.
	Row 11 - the brick on the back wall of the firebox and at the entrance to the descending channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	Row 12 - the descending smoke exhaust duct and the fuel chamber are being combined. For a row you need 13 whole and 2 ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid according to the presented diagram, and it uses 10 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row is also laid according to the scheme; you will need 10 whole and 6 ¾ bricks.
	Row 15 - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	Row 16 - bricks completely block the combined downward channel and the fuel chamber. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air upper part and the lower fuel part. For a row, 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	The 17th row is laid out from red brick. A hole in the ascending channel is left in it, and bricks cut diagonally are mounted along its edges. 14 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	Row 18 - a horizontal furnace channel is formed; it is the basis for the installation of five channels that will run vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 19 - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower combustion part of the furnace. The bricks forming this channel must be cut diagonally from below. 11 whole and 4 ¾ bricks are used.
	Row 20 - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal draft. A row uses 7 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks.
	Row 21 - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. The bricks laid at the base of the walls separating the channels are cramped from below, as in previous cases. For a row you will need 11 whole, 5 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the pattern, observing the formation of channels. For a row you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the pattern and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 24 - on this row the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall is cut diagonally from the two upper sides. A row will require 9 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	Row 25 - this is where the laying of the wall between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry you will need 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 5 ½ bricks.
	Row 26 - completion of the wall laying between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick of the wall is also trimmed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 27 - the work follows the pattern, and it requires 9 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 28 - it uses bricks made ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole pieces are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely along the entire thickness.
	Row 29 - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. To lay it you will need 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2 - ½ bricks.
	Row 30 is also laid out solid, according to the pattern, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the pattern and 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	Row 32 - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out; it will require 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina

The Swedish type heating and cooking stove is quite popular due to its efficiency. Its design promotes rapid heating of rooms and allows you not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

Appearance of the “Swedish” Ryazankin

Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of ​​the house, positioning it in such a way that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swedish designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both spacious and small buildings, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has dimensions of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height excluding the pipe. In this case, it is also necessary to provide that the fireplace portal will protrude beyond the building by 130 mm. The foundation must be larger than the size of the furnace base and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Shvedka reaches 3000 kcal/hour.

To build this stove model, you will need the following materials:

• Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
• Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
• Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
• Oven 450×360×300 mm – 1 pc.
• Two-burner cast iron stove 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
• Grate 200×300 mm – 1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
• Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm – 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×920 mm – 3 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×530 mm – 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×480 mm – 2 pcs.
• A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500×700 mm - 1 pc.
• Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace laying

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast iron elements of the fireplace stove, and a description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire stove first dry, that is, without mortar, adhering to the diagram and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of a stove maker.

Another trick of experienced craftsmen is to pre-fit and lay each of the rows without mortar during the work process. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or trimmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be completed much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When doing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only a diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the stove. It will also help - it will allow you to imagine all the channels passing inside and the design of the fireboxes.

So, the laying is done as follows:

Order - from 1st to 6th row

• The first, continuous row of the stove is laid on onlaid to ready roofing felt foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first you should mark the roofing material sheet using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the stove base, observing the dimensions. Then, based on the diagram and observing the configuration of the brick laying, the first row is assembled dry, and then the laying is done with mortar.
• 2nd row. It contains metal elements consisting of segments of reinforcement, onto which the fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element will be completely installed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
• 3rd row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are installed, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, wire is used, which is threaded into special loops-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is secured with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until final fastening, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

• 4 row. The work proceeds according to the scheme, but the row is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be placed perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
• It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, just like all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which is wrapped or lined with asbestos to prevent premature burnout.

• 6th row. On this row, a combustion door is installed, wrapped in asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

• 7th row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme; a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
• Rows 8 and 9 are laid out according to the diagram presented.
• 10 row. The front wall of the stove is strengthened, since a cast iron hob will be installed later in this part of the building. A steel corner is secured to the wall using two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid in place of the slab installation, and the slab itself is installed. The door of another cleaning chamber is fixed in the same row.
• Rows 11 and 12 are laid out according to the pattern without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row, the cleaning chamber door is closed.

Order - from 13 to 24 row

• From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed pattern, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
• 16th row. The construction of the walls of the chamber located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips, is completed. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks in the next row.
• Rows 17 and 18 are laid according to the pattern.
• 19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are installed, which are secured in the same way as the previous ones.
• Rows 20 and 21 are placed according to the pattern.
• 22 row. Two more cleaning chamber doors are being installed.
• 23 row. The masonry proceeds according to the scheme.
• 24 row. The chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.

• 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
• 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
• From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the pattern.
• 31 row. At this stage, the third and final chimney valve is installed.
• 32-33 rows. In this area of ​​the structure there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When laying a pipe through the attic floor, it is necessary to isolate flammable construction materials from it. To do this, a metal box with sides with a height greater than the thickness of the ceiling by 100 ÷ 120 mm is installed around the chimney. This “difference” remains in the attic.

If the walls of the oven are not covered with decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The Swedish stove can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project is presented in the video.

Video: brick “Swedish” with a bed

And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before deciding to build a stove yourself, without sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice ordinary brick laying with mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance.

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

Author of the publication 27.08.2015

A brick stove in a private home or country house can always perform several functions, for example, heating and cooking. But most often, the construction of a brick stove is carried out for one purpose - to constantly maintain heat in the house. In order for the heating of the room to be carried out efficiently (regardless of its size), and fuel consumption to remain moderate, you should know not only design features brick ovens, but also the correct order of its construction. Also, special attention should be paid to the choice of building material. You can learn more about how to build a simple brick oven with your own hands below.

It is necessary to accurately distinguish stoves according to the principle of use, which are divided into:

• Heating stoves made of red brick. They are used most often, since they can be used to heat up to 100 m2 of space. The oven dimensions can be quite large.

Heating stove

• Cooking ovens. They are used exclusively for cooking, of course, while spreading a certain heat around.
• Combined brick version. This brick oven can be used for both cooking and heating. Very convenient, for example, at the dacha or in a country house.

Example of a combination oven

• Fireplace options. Brick stove-fireplaces are not widely used, but some owners try to give old stoves the appearance of a fireplace, saving space. Used for heating a room or as a decorative fire source.

Fireplace version of a brick stove

To find out the main structural elements and dimensions of a red brick stove, for example, you should take the most popular option - a combined one (a hob and a brick stove for heating a house or cottage).

Structure of a combined brick oven:

• Firebox. This is the place in the Russian stove where fuel combustion occurs. Since the temperature in this place is constantly high, materials should be selected accordingly.
• Blower. A free cavity, which is laid out of brick directly under the firebox. The main function is the accumulation of ash and small unburned residues. Air also enters the firebox through the ash pan, which improves the quality of fuel combustion.
• Channels for removing smoke from the oven. One of the most complex parts ovens. Passing through the channels, combustion products give off some of the heat to the brick, which subsequently heats the room.
• Chimney. Releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere. It also provides the draft necessary for combustion in a Russian stove.
• Tile. Located in a place above the firebox and only in cooking or combination ovens.
• Holes for cleaning. For greater convenience, they are mounted in the upper part of the chimney; this place allows you to quickly and efficiently clean it.

The foundation is the basis of any structure

Like every solid building, a brick stove for a home must have its own foundation. The average weight of a brick oven is 1.5 tons, no more. Therefore, it will be enough to dig a trench in the ground up to 15-20 cm deep, which is approximately equal to one bayonet of a shovel, and you can start building a stove with your own hands from brick.

Once the trench for the foundation is ready, formwork can be installed in it. The formwork is made from boards of any category with your own hands, the only condition being that there are no signs of rotting. The structure should rise 10-15 cm above the ground. According to the rules, the base of the foundation should be level with the floor, but many home owners make it a little higher. The walls of the formwork can be fastened together using knitting needles.

A sand cushion is poured into the bottom of the trench. You don't need to use a lot of sand. Cement masonry mortar can be poured on top of the embankment, for which the following materials are required:

• 1/3 bucket of cement.
• 8 bayonet shovels of sand.
• Water (add until a thick cement mortar forms). If you accidentally overfill water, add some cement and sand.

The first layer of cement will be 7-8 cm. Materials such as pieces of reinforcement or pre-welded reinforcement mesh should be laid on it. Next, the second layer is poured and the reinforcement is also laid. The reinforcement will allow you to reliably connect the entire structure and add strength to it. After pouring is completed, the solution must be given time to dry; this can take up to several weeks.

2 layers of waterproofing should be laid on the finished foundation. There is no need to secure it; the brickwork will firmly press the waterproofing to the foundation.

Laying a brick oven with your own hands, step by step

If you know the sequence of laying a simple brick oven and have the required tools and building materials at hand, the work can take several days. It takes craftsmen no more than one day to build a brick oven.

1. The most responsible person in the furnace is the first brick row, which is laid on a continuous surface, without any cavities or technical holes. To set its level and the correct angles, you should use: a square, a building level and (if necessary) a tape measure. After finishing the laying of the first furnace level, it can be checked using a plumb line fixed to the ceiling in the room.

Construction of the first row of brickwork

If you do not follow these recommendations and do not use a measuring tool, the result may not correspond to the desired one: a row with curved walls, disproportionate angles, uneven surface. Then the oven will have to be moved, which will lead to additional waste of money.

A whole stove brick is not always necessary; sometimes halves are enough. In order to prepare such pieces, you should use a grinder with a diamond wheel. Brick cannot be beaten with a hammer; it is too fragile and the pieces will turn out uneven.

You can see the entire process described above in more detail in the video:

The above sequence clearly shows that you can build a simple stove (which can withstand rising degrees) or a brick slab with your own hands, and this does not require complex tools or expensive building materials.

Order for a brick kiln

Preparing the mortar for laying the stove

Most often, for laying a brick stove (or firebox), a clay mortar is used, which you can prepare with your own hands (for example, for a hob), it does not take much time. The following materials are needed for the firebox: clay, water, sand. Before preparing the mortar for laying the stove, the clay must be soaked for at least 24 hours. After this, clean water should be added to it, without mineral impurities. The resulting masonry mortar should be quite thick and resemble sour cream in consistency. The last ingredient is sand, it is added in small portions, constantly stirring the solution.

If a brick stove is laid according to all the rules, then the clay mortar will not be suitable for the first row (the junction of the brick and the foundation), as well as for the chimney. This is due to the accumulation of moisture during constant operation of the oven. Clay is prone to absorbing water and cracks due to sudden temperature changes. Therefore, it is better to use lime mortar for these places.

The procedure for preparing lime mortar for a brick kiln:

• Materials: quicklime, water, sand. Prepare a mass consisting of water and lime, ratio 3:1. In this case, it is necessary to add water to the lime and constantly stir the solution until a dough forms. It is very important to use a protective mask and gloves when working with quicklime.
• After preparing the dough for laying the oven, it should be crumbled and sifted thoroughly, getting rid of too large particles.
• Sand is added to the sifted solution, the amount of which should be 3 times more than lime.
• Adding water will allow you to obtain a thick mass for laying a stove or a separate firebox. Now you can start building a real Russian stove. Some craftsmen, for greater strength, add a small portion of cement to the solution.

A high-quality, but more expensive replacement for oven clay and lime mortar is cement mortar. Cement is characterized by increased strength and resistance to temperature changes; it is most suitable for laying a stove used for heating a room, as well as a chimney or oven.

To prepare such a solution you will need sifted sand and cement. The ratio should be 1 portion of cement to 3 portions of sand. Having prepared a dry solution (just mix cement and sand), you can gradually add water to it, but only in small portions. Having achieved the required consistency (the solution should become creamy), you can begin laying a brick stove for your home or cottage. The main disadvantage of cement mortar for creating a brick oven with your own hands is that it should be used within one hour after preparation.

And another useful video for beginner stove makers