Sheathing the attic ceiling with plasterboard. Finishing, lining the attic with plasterboard. Frame method: we use a metal profile

If the house has enough space attic space Not a single owner will refuse the opportunity to expand their living space by arranging a cozy attic under the roof. You can choose wood as a cladding material, but it is expensive and difficult to work with. In addition, these walls and ceilings will require constant attention and care. Next option– plastic, it is more unpretentious. However, it will be impossible to change the design of the room later, and the material itself is quite cold. The ideal solution is to finish the attic with plasterboard:

It's relatively inexpensive.
It is possible to carry out insulation and insulation work simultaneously.
If you have already dealt with this material, you can easily do without involving a construction team.
If you get tired of the finish, you can change it to another quite painlessly.

The only note: it is better to choose moisture-resistant drywall in the attic over ordinary drywall. Because in such rooms the humidity is usually high.

Preparatory stage of covering the room

Before covering the attic with plasterboard, you need to make sure that it is ready for improvement. We remember that there is a roof above this room, and its condition determines how comfortable you will be in the freshly decorated room, and how long it will last.

The condition of the roof is examined. The most reliable results of such an action are during the rainy season - leaks will appear in all their glory. Damaged parts of the roof are repaired with all care.
Rafters and beams are no less important in this regard. They are checked for strength, dryness and absence of rotting. All wooden parts are impregnated with antiseptics.

If the house was recently built, equipping the attic room and covering it with plasterboard with your own hands is postponed until all structural elements are completely dry.

Rafter installation

In some cases, it is possible to get by with frameless cladding, although this method is not considered the most reliable. Lathing can be considered optional for a small attic, where the distance between the rafters is a maximum of 75 centimeters.

Drywall is purchased with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Thinner sheets that are rigidly fixed to the rafters will begin to bend and swell.
The cut drywall is placed on the walls using a special glue. In those places where the surface is fairly flat, it is applied in a layer. Where dips are observed, cakes are applied to level out differences in altitude.
The last step is finishing the attic ceiling. Here the cutting must be as precise as possible. Individual sheets are fixed not only with glue, but also with long stainless steel screws into the rafters.

Internal corners, especially those at an angle, are reinforced not just with sickle, but with a perforated corner. And keep in mind: you most likely will not have a perfectly flat surface, since the rafters may have a significant difference in height.

Frame method: we use a metal profile

This method is not only more reliable, but also allows you to insulate the room. Of course, if you intend to use it purely for summer, this step is not mandatory, although it helps to operate the attic longer without intermediate repairs.

Careful measurements of the entire room are taken. Calculated and purchased required material: profiles, drywall, hardware.
Installation of the sheathing begins with the walls. The markings of the future sheathing are transferred to the floor and ceiling (be sure to check that the rack is vertical).
Frame guides are installed around the perimeter. Each of the profile segments must be fixed at least at 3 points. Maximum distance between fasteners - meter.
Racks are attached to the guides at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other using metal screws. It is imperative to check their verticality.
Next, the crossbars are fixed. Their frequency should correspond to the length of the plasterboard sheets after cutting.
If you are laying electrical communications, they are installed precisely at this stage, when the sheathing has already been created, and covering the attic with plasterboard is still ahead.
Insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. It is optimal to use mineral wool as it: it is indifferent to moisture and is not susceptible to the teeth of rodents.

The entire structure is covered with a water vapor barrier membrane. If the humidity in your attic is low, you can skip this step.

GKL attic cladding

Basic principles on how to sheathe attic room plasterboard, are similar to similar actions for finishing other rooms.

The cut sheets are attached to the profiles with a step between fasteners of 20-25 cm.
Horizontal seams should be offset relative to each other by at least a third of the width of the sheet. If it turns out that the whole slab forms a straight line with the adjacent joint, replace it with a trimmed one.
First, the space is laid out with solid plasterboards. The trimmings are put to use when the main area is sheathed.
In the walls of the attic, where there are openings - doors or windows - at the junction of the plasterboard sheets they are fixed with the same frequency of fasteners along the entire perimeter of the opening. And make sure that the gypsum board joints do not fall on the corners of the openings: in these places the tensile stress is high, especially if the sashes are opening (not a solid window), and the finishing will become covered with cracks over time.

Treatment of walls and ceilings before finishing also standard: sealing joints and heads of hardware, strengthening corners, priming and puttying. But how to finish an attic already lined with plasterboard is a matter of your preferences and tastes. Any type of finish is acceptable. The only limitation is the lack of heating, if you did not install it in the attic.
As you can see, covering an attic room with plasterboard is only a little more difficult than the same room in a residential building. Difficulties usually arise in the area of inclined planes of attics, but people who have already erected similar structures easily adapt to new installation conditions.

In houses with attic-type living space, the usable area increases significantly and lining the attic with plasterboard is the fastest, highest quality and cheap way make it suitable for living.

In addition, if insulation is carried out correctly and radiators are installed there, then this part of the building can be successfully used in winter period.

Making a living space out of the attic

In this article we will not touch upon the heating system and its installation, but we will consider two other, no less important issues - how and with what to insulate the walls and how to sheathe the attic with plasterboard.

Although the type of roof is the same, installing gypsum boards allows you to slightly change the internal configuration of the room. But, nevertheless, the finishing principle remains, using which you can do everything to your liking.

One of the materials suitable and convenient for insulating an attic is polystyrene foam of different thicknesses (20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm, 100 mm).
Lightweight foam blocks are convenient because they do not require special precautions during installation and are very easy to lay and secure between beams and rafters. The gaps left when these panels are joined are filled with polyurethane foam.

Mineral wool, just like polystyrene foam, is used to insulate the attic, but, unlike the latter, mineral wool is carcinogenic and the dust released during installation is harmful to health.
This material is obtained from basalt volcanic melts (stone wool), blast furnace slag melts (slag wool) and glass melt (glass wool). Its thickness varies from 20 to 200 mm, and the product is produced in rolls or panel-type briquettes.

If the roof installation was carried out as required by the instructions, it means that inside you should have a vapor-permeable film with the rough side facing you (permeable from inside to outside).

But, suddenly, for some reason, this was not done at the time, then you need to install it now, before installing the insulation. You won’t be able to push it under the roofing material, so just stretch the film between the rafters, fixing it with a stapler, and the final fasteners can be made thin wooden planks(nail along the rafters).

The distance between the rafters depends on the load on them, so it is not the same in different houses and the insulation needs to be adjusted individually for each attic. If thermal insulation is made with foam plastic, then it must be made 2-3 mm larger than the opening so that the panel fits tightly into the seat and does not fall out.

But, mineral wool can be made 5-7 cm larger, after all, this soft material, and even if this does not hold it between the beams, then glue strips of tape for temporary fixation.

Make sure that there are no gaps left anywhere in the insulation, so if it is polystyrene foam, then blow them out with polyurethane foam, and compact the mineral wool with its scraps. Pay attention to doors and windows - it is near them that the blockage may most often be insufficiently dense.

After installing the insulation with your own hands, you need to cover it with a layer of vapor-permeable film, and again, the rough side should go inward so that the moisture moves towards the street. You just need to staple the insulation to the wooden rafters of the attic.

You can also secure the film later by nailing it under the gypsum board onto a metal sheathing.

Drywall frame

Well, how can you cover an attic with plasterboard if there is no sheathing? That's right, it needs to be done and this is best done from metal profiles for drywall. We are currently considering the sheathing (not the partition), so for it we will need CD and UD profiles, as well as U-shaped metal hangers, not to mention self-tapping screws of different sizes for wood and metal.

CD profiles come in lengths of 3 and 4 meters, and their width is 60 mm with a thickness of 27 mm. The thickness of the metal depends on the manufacturer and ranges from 0.4 to 0.7 mm, which mainly determines the price of the product. The UD is made of the same metal and has the same length, but the width and thickness are 27x27 mm.

U-shaped hangers are used as consoles for fastening sheathing under plasterboard, which, in turn, are attached to wooden rafters using self-tapping screws. But finishing the attic floor with plasterboard can also be done not only on the sheathing, but also with the help of partitions, for which the UW and CW profile configuration is used.

The CW and UW profiles used for partitions have the same thickness - 50 mm, but their width can be 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm - you can choose any one for the desired thickness of the future wall (in the photo above there is a 50x50 mm profile). Metal guides of any type are fastened together with small (11 mm) metal screws, popularly called fleas.

Insulation is also used in partitions, but it no longer serves for thermal insulation, but to dampen sound. That is, it is intended not only to soundproof a separate room, but also to dampen vibrations of the partition itself, because a hollow device made of metal and plasterboard will produce a booming sound even with a slight impact.

Profiles that edge any openings should be strengthened wooden beams. For future installation of heating radiators or wall cabinets the frame is reinforced with boards or OSB (for attaching brackets).

Advice. The subtitle did not contain a specific description of the installation of a metal frame or sheathing, and this is not without reason, because the configuration of the room may require both vertical and horizontal placement of gypsum boards.
The most important thing is that the plane of one sheet should have at least 4 profiles (every 30 cm) for longitudinal intersection, and at least 6 (every 50 cm) for transverse intersection.

Installation of the GKP on the frame

The lining of the attic with plasterboard begins with a whole sheet - the cut (outer) pieces will be installed later. Please note that about 60 self-tapping screws (every 30 cm from each other) should be used for one gypsum board, but much more is required for the same area (3m2) consisting of pieces. The depth of recess of the screw head under the plane should be 1-1.5 mm.

The depth of immersion of the self-tapping screw under the plane of drywall is great importance, because a cap that is flush or protrudes by at least a fraction of a millimeter will interfere with the putty (grooves remain), and when wallpaper is pasted, rusty spots appear.
If the screw breaks upper layer cardboard and ends up in the sludge body, the fixation will weaken several times. But 1-1.5 mm is just enough to cover the metal with putty and hold the sheet, so use a special nozzle for drywall with a lampshade, size PH-2.

As a supplement to the article, you can see a video on the same topic, but, nevertheless, it does not hurt to mention that the attic is subject to vibration under strong wind loads, so you should pay attention Special attention at drywall joints.
So, regular sealing with putty or tile adhesive may not be enough, so before putting putty, seal the joint with adhesive sickle tape for reinforcement.

Advice: if the attic made of plasterboard is highly susceptible to vibration, then serpyanka for reinforcing the joints may not be enough.
Take a paper bag from under the cement and cut it into strips 5-6 cm wide - glue them to the joints using PVA.
Corner joints of sheets (wall junctions and roof breaks) can generally be sealed not just with tape, but with a sickle sheet.

Conclusion

You can use any kind of plasterboard in the attic - ceiling, wall and moisture-resistant, everything will depend on its intended purpose. Also, further finishing can be completely different, because the sheets can be puttied, painted, wallpaper and ceramic tiles can be glued onto them.

Hello readers! Today I want to talk about how I improved my country house and got to the stage of finishing the attic with plasterboard. There were many difficulties: I doubted whether the material could be used in an unheated room, and I wondered how seasonal shrinkage would affect it. But it turned out that most of my fears were in vain, and many subtleties only play a role in large areas. What do you really need to consider when working in a gypsum attic? Hurry up to find out the answer.

How to choose drywall for the attic

Water resistance - spaces under the roof are often high humidity, in such conditions it is better to use plasterboards reinforced with hybrophobic impregnation (GKLV - green);
Fire resistance - to protect wooden roof rafters, non-flammable gypsum plasterboards with fiberglass filling (red marker) are suitable;
Manufacturers produce a modified type of drywall with a combination of properties and qualities inherent in fire-resistant and water-repellent boards;
Acoustic plasterboard sheets have sound-absorbing characteristics.

When calculating the rated load on the frame, the weight of the plasterboard is taken into account. A standard 12.5 mm thick plasterboard board weighs approximately 10 kg. It is important to remember that specialized analogues of drywall have a larger mass.

Quantity the necessary sheets for cladding is calculated by dividing the area of all surfaces that are planned to be sheathed by the area of one sheet. It is advisable to make a small supply of drywall.

Materials, devices and tools for covering the attic with plasterboard

Before covering the attic with plasterboard, prepare everything you need:

Composition for sealing joints - for 10 m² of gypsum board 3.5-4 liters will be used;
Putty knife;
Reinforced material - for 10 m² gypsum plasterboard it will take about 3 m;
Corner with perforation;
Metal profiles - straight and angular;
Suspensions;
Hardware - self-tapping screws, screws, dowel-nails, rivets (it is better to use stainless steel grades so that rust stains do not form on the gypsum board);
Pencil;
A laser device or other analogue of a level - for marking and checking axes;
Carbide drills;
Universal impact wrench - assembly of the frame and fastening of sheets;
Roulette;
Metal cutting tools;
Screwdrivers different types and size;
Crabs;
Grinder - cutting the required sections of metal profiles;
Saw according to gypsum board;
Drill with attachments.

Technology of covering the attic with plasterboard

Finishing the attic with plasterboard involves the following steps:

Preparing the attic space for finishing - vacate the room, clean the foundations, carry out work to eliminate leaks in the roof, check the reliability of the beams and rafters of the roofing system;
Design and calculation work;
Perform markings according to the drawings;
Mount the frame;
Laying and wiring of communication systems;
Installation of plasterboard sheets;
Corner protection;
Preparation of surfaces for decorative finishing.

Construction of a frame when covering an attic with plasterboard

The frame method is reliable, it is used to insulate attic floor dwellings. Frame installation is required:

When too large area attic space;
If plasterboard sheets cannot be attached to the internal roof lining;
If you have conceived an interior project with a complex or non-standard configuration.

Attics have complex broken surfaces. Wall bases are perpendicular to the floor or inclined at different degrees. Installation of the frame in accordance with the level of the planes and accurate measurement of surfaces using a building level and tape measure is the key to successful implementation installation work for the construction of the frame. The better the frame is made, the longer the service life of the drywall.

The metal profiles are fixed according to the markings. Holes are drilled on the floor and ceiling, equal to the holes on the metal slats. Direct fastening is carried out using hardware and brackets at intervals of 0.6-0.8 m.

Suspended consoles or brackets are mounted along vertical axes. Then, along the vertical markings, vertical slats are attached to the perimeter guides and hangers.

Insulation of the attic when covering the walls with plasterboard

Algorithm for performing work on laying insulation boards, air conditioning systems and communications behind the skin:

Pipe hanger fasteners;
Installation of main clamps;
Laying vapor barrier;
Installation of holders (mushrooms) for insulation;
Lighting wiring layout.

Attic floors are insulated:

Mineral wool - roll or tile;
Foam boards are a productive and popular material.

Lay the insulation loosely or fasten it between the sections of the frame:

For liquid nails;
Adhesive composition;
Fixed with wooden slats or pieces of profile - preferable in terms of reliability and practicality.

In all cases, the laying is done so that there is a gap for air between the drywall and the insulation.

Vapor barrier products are sold in rolls. Therefore, the material is cut for ease of use, the pieces are placed overlapping, and fixed to the base using a specialized stapler.

The final layer of the entire structure is a moisture-vapor barrier membrane.

Plasterboard cladding: finishing the attic

Attic spaces are irregularly shaped and may have corner defects. The cladding begins with a single sheet. They sheathe the surfaces below, the side and front walls, then the roof slopes, openings and move on to corner connections, having previously cut the material.

Plasterboard sheets are installed using two methods:

Vertically - in increments of 25-35 cm;
Horizontally - in increments of 45-55 cm.

Install the drywall sheets onto the metal frame using a screwdriver. Hardware is attached perpendicularly to the surface, recessing their heads into the material by several millimeters.

Each new row of material is installed in such a way that the seam lines do not continue the previous row. Gaps of 3-5 mm are made between the sheets.

With two-layer sheathing, fastening is performed alternately. Fix the first layer, then the second.

I finish the windows, arches, and doors around the perimeter of the opening.

GCR ceilings are also mounted on a metal frame or tied to load-bearing beams roofs.

If it is difficult to install a solid slab of plasterboard between the sloping ceiling base and the beam, the material is then sawn into two parts. To do this, an incision is made along the intended line, then broken by pressing along the incision line.

The partitions are placed perpendicular to the floor base, they are mounted with a profile pitch of 40-50 cm.

Holes for communications are made using a drill according to the markings; for this, a sheet of drywall is placed on a flat surface.

On last stage work is performed by:

Sealing seams and joints with putty;
Fill gaps in openings and fixation points with sealant;
Strengthen corners;
Puttying;
All surfaces are primed.

Do-it-yourself attic finishing with plasterboard (video)

This option is suitable for a small attic. For frameless cladding, plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 20 mm or more will be required.

After making sure that the rafters are installed firmly and securely, are not damaged by rodents, are not susceptible to mold and cracking, proceed to fixing the plasterboard sheets directly to the roof rafters.

On wall surfaces, plasterboard boards are placed on a layer of glue. Self-tapping screws are also used for the ceiling. Height unevenness and differences are leveled with embedded slats.

Installation on wooden frame

The moisture content of the wood used is allowed to range from 15 to 40%. Wooden elements pre-dried, treated with antiseptic drugs and fire retardants.

The parameters of the slats used are determined by the pitch of the rafters. At a pitch of 75-100 cm, elements with a section of 45x60 mm are used. The thickness of the plasterboard boards used is also taken into account.

The sheathing with wooden slats is performed transversely to the rafters. Plasterboard boards are attached to them.

Attic cladding: an alternative to drywall

Finishing the attic with plasterboard has gained its popularity since the manufacture of plasterboard, because... allows you to realize various shapes designs.

Wood is used for the attic floor. This material is considered expensive because it for a long time will warm your home. Usage of this material when you are installing a room, it will help save a lot of time, since the wood does not require grouting or putty.

Also, do not forget that wood is an environmentally friendly product, so it cannot harm your health.

You can also sheathe the attic floor plastic panels. The advantage is that they do not require additional coating, but they cannot be painted, so you need to decide on the color before you begin installing the attic floor. Under heavy loads, the plastic breaks and scratches, which, of course, will clearly damage the appearance of the interior, especially if it is a living room.

If you use plasterboard to cover the attic, then you instantly make your work easier. You can easily carry out installation and subsequent maintenance. Why?

Firstly, this option Using plasterboard in the attic is cheap, but at the same time this design is considered elegant and very beautiful, since plasterboard fits into any interior. Secondly, the walls acquire a perfectly flat surface. Thirdly, the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any toxins. Fourthly, it is easy to paint, which will again help you change the design of the room in the future. Fifthly, if you use drywall sheets made from moisture-resistant materials, you can increase the service life several times.

From the above arguments, we can conclude that sheathing attic room plasterboard is the best option. Let's look at it in more detail, since when doing installation, it is necessary to strictly follow the entire sequence of room design. To begin with, let's denote necessary tools which will allow for correct installation.

Tools for work: covering the attic with sheets of plasterboard

Tool for working with drywall.

drywall;
metal straight profiles;
metal corner profiles;
crabs;
pendants;
self-tapping screws (rivets);
Screwdriver Set;
door+drill;
special knife or scissors for drywall;
putty knife;
roulette;
building level;
metal scissors;
pencil.

As for the profile, its minimum length is 2.5 meters and the maximum is 6 meters, so compare it with the size of your room. A drill bit for a drill must be made of carbide material - this will help improve the quality of work and reduce the time it takes to complete this task.

Stages of finishing the walls and ceiling of the attic with plasterboard

Before finishing the attic with plasterboard, it is necessary to install a frame: metal or wood.

Now you can move on to finishing the walls and ceiling from plasterboard in the attic:

Marking.
Profile installation.
Communications layout.
Preparing drywall.
Installation of drywall.
Finishing.

We need to talk about each point in more detail; let’s start, of course, in order.

To correctly measure the room and then make the correct marks, you need to use a tape measure and a building level. Afterwards, the metal profile will be attached according to these marks.

At the second stage, according to pre-made marks, it is necessary to attach the frame that is used for drywall. How to do it right? To do this, holes are drilled in the ceiling and floor; they must be the same size as the holes on the profile. The profiles are attached using brackets or self-tapping screws, the distance should be about 0.5-1 meter. Remember, the better you install the profiles, the longer the drywall will last you.

Stages of finishing an attic with plasterboard

The beauty of drywall is that with this material you can hide all the wires. But remember that the wires must be distributed in advance.

The following 2 stages can be combined, since they are the most important and basic. To prepare, we will need a screwdriver. With its help, installation will be easy and fast, and most importantly, high-quality and efficient.

So, using a screwdriver, we fix the sheets of drywall with the profile very firmly and tightly. Make sure everything is the same size. To give the edges of the sheets a smooth surface, trim them with a jigsaw or plane.

The sheets must be fixed with screws, the maximum distance between them should be about 25 cm, the minimum - 20 cm. The screws should fit tightly and fasten the materials to each other. If there is a window or doorway on the way, then we fix the sheets along the edge of one or another opening.

As you can see, installation is easy to do yourself, especially if the frame is made correctly. After completing the installation of plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to install sockets, light fixtures and switches.

After finishing, you need to move on to the final sixth stage - this is puttying the joints. This procedure is performed using a spatula. Smearing movements are carried out, but pay attention to the fact that the walls must remain perfectly smooth. Leave until completely dry.

That's all, installation is complete. All that remains is to design the room and arrange the furniture.

Interior decoration of the attic of a wooden house

If there is a fairly spacious attic space in the house, no owner will refuse the opportunity to expand their living space by arranging a cozy attic under the roof. You can choose wood as a cladding material, but it is expensive and difficult to work with. In addition, these walls and ceilings will require constant attention and care. The next option is plastic, it is more unpretentious. However, it will be impossible to change the design of the room later, and the material itself is quite cold. The ideal solution is finishing attics with plasterboard:

It's relatively inexpensive.
It is possible to carry out insulation and insulation work simultaneously.
If you have already dealt with this material, you can easily do without involving a construction team.
If you get tired of the finish, you can change it to another quite painlessly.

The only note: it is better to choose moisture-resistant drywall in the attic over ordinary drywall. Because in such rooms the humidity is usually high.

The preparatory stage of covering the attic with plasterboard

The condition of the roof is examined. The most reliable results of such an action are during the rainy period - leaks will appear in all their glory. Damaged parts of the roof are repaired with all care.
Rafters and beams are no less important in this regard. They are checked for strength, dryness and absence of rotting. All wooden parts are impregnated with antiseptics.

If the house was recently built, equipping the attic room and covering it with plasterboard with your own hands is postponed until all structural elements are completely dry.

Drywall is purchased with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Thinner sheets that are rigidly fixed to the rafters will begin to bend and swell.
The cut drywall is placed on the walls using a special glue. In those places where the surface is fairly flat, it is applied in a layer. Where dips are observed, cakes are applied to level out differences in altitude.
Lastly, it is carried out finishing attic ceiling. Here the cutting must be as precise as possible. Individual sheets are fixed not only with glue, but also with long stainless steel screws into the rafters.

Frame method of covering an attic with plasterboard

Careful measurements of the entire room are taken. The necessary materials are calculated and purchased: profiles, drywall, hardware.
Installation of the sheathing begins with the walls. The markings of the future sheathing are transferred to the floor and ceiling (be sure to check that the rack is vertical).
Frame guides are installed around the perimeter. Each of the profile segments must be fixed at least at 3 points. The maximum distance between fasteners is a meter.
Racks are attached to the guides at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other using metal screws. It is imperative to check their verticality.
Next, the crossbars are fixed. Their frequency should correspond to the length of the plasterboard sheets after cutting.
If you are laying electrical communications, they are installed precisely at this stage, when the sheathing has already been created, and covering the attic with plasterboard is still ahead.
Insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. It is optimal to use mineral wool as it: it is indifferent to moisture and is not susceptible to the teeth of rodents.

The entire structure is covered with a water vapor barrier membrane. If the humidity in your attic is low, you can skip this step.

Cladding the attic with plasterboard

The basic principles of how to sheathe an attic room with plasterboard are similar to similar steps for finishing other rooms.

The cut sheets are attached to the profiles with a step between fasteners of 20-25 cm.
Horizontal seams should be offset relative to each other by at least a third of the width of the sheet. If it turns out that the whole slab forms a straight line with the adjacent joint, replace it with a trimmed one.
First, the space is laid out with solid plasterboards. The trimmings are put to use when the main area is sheathed.
In the walls of the attic, where there are openings - doors or windows - at the junction of the plasterboard sheets they are fixed with the same frequency of fasteners along the entire perimeter of the opening. And make sure that the gypsum board joints do not fall on the corners of the openings: in these places the tensile stress is high, especially if the sashes are opening (not a solid window), and the finishing will become covered with cracks over time.

The treatment of walls and ceilings before finishing is also standard: sealing joints and hardware caps, strengthening corners, priming and puttying. But how to finish an attic already lined with plasterboard is a matter of your preferences and tastes. Any type of finish is acceptable. The only limitation is the lack of heating, if you did not install it in the attic.

As you can see, covering an attic room with plasterboard is only a little more difficult than the same room in a residential building. Difficulties usually arise in the area of inclined planes of attics, but people who have already erected similar structures easily adapt to new installation conditions.

Finishing the attic inside

Often attic space the house is made habitable, because this is an excellent option to increase usable area without big expenses. Finishing the attic with plasterboard is an excellent solution to the problem interior design allowing you to quickly make non-residential premises suitable for habitation.

Increasingly, attics have begun to be used as living space, and everyone’s favorite plasterboard is used as finishing.

However, this type of work involves many nuances, because the attic itself does not have thick walls, and it will be necessary to insulate and strengthen the entire structure.

What are the advantages of finishing the attic with plasterboard?

Firstly, this is an accessible and relatively inexpensive option to quickly make repairs in a room that was initially completely uninhabitable.

Secondly, the output is ideal, smooth wall surfaces, which will facilitate their further finishing according to the planned decoration plan.

Thirdly, even in an emergency (roof leakage) moisture resistant drywall able to withstand moisture for some time.

Fourthly, gypsum board is very environmentally friendly material, since it does not contain anything other than paper and gypsum.

And finally, this simple technology installation that any homeowner can handle with a minimum set of tools.

Stage 1 of finishing the attic with plasterboard: preparation

If it was planned to turn the attic into a living space during the construction stage, then all the nuances should be taken into account in the project. But what to do when such a need arises for a ready-made house?

Before transferring such a room to the residential category, you first need to calculate the safety margin of the floor. In new houses built after the 80s, it is usually from reinforced concrete panels, and there shouldn't be any problems. But in older houses, the entire floor may need to be replaced.

At the preparation stage, it is necessary to insulate the room, since the roof consumes up to 30% of the total heat of the house.

Two main types of material are used as insulation: polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The insulation technology is as follows.

A hydro-vapor barrier in the form of a special film is mounted between the rafters to the surface of the roofing material.
According to the size of the cells formed rafter supports, cut the insulation and lay it at the installation site.
Another layer of vapor barrier is placed on the insulation material.
Surface closes OSB boards, chipboard or plywood.

The last layer in the form of sheets of one material or another need not be made, but simply vapor barrier film with insulation, secure it with longitudinal slats packed along the entire floor.

Also, ordinary PVC film cannot be used as a waterproofing layer. It does not have the ability to pass water vapor, as a result of which condensation will first form inside, and over time, mold and mildew.

Stage 2: materials and tools for finishing the attic with plasterboard

Drywall in the attic is mounted according to the same principle as in ordinary residential premises, that is, on a frame base. Accordingly, the selection of materials and tools is the same, namely:

Metal profile of CD and UD markings.
Fastening material: self-tapping screws, press washers, crab joints.
Hacksaw or metal scissors, tape measure, level, screwdriver.
Drywall, preferably moisture resistant.

Also, the frame can be made not of metal, but of wood. For this, well-dried timber is prepared - the main and supporting slats. The wood should not only be dried. Before assembling the frame, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic agents to protect against mold and mildew. And under no circumstances should you assemble the frame using nails!

To install drywall in the attic, you can use either a metal or wooden frame.

3rd stage of sheathing: frame for plasterboard

Finishing the attic with plasterboard is possible in three options: on a metal frame, wooden or directly on rafter system.

Metal profile frame

First, the location of all partitions, both wall and interior (if any), is planned.

As well as the area on the basis of which the ceiling surface will be formed.
Usually, a low partition (wall) is mounted at some distance from the wall. To do this, two longitudinal guides from a UD profile are mounted along the room.
The carrier rails of the CD profile are inserted into the guides. If possible, you can make additional fastening on direct suspensions to the rafters. If necessary, transverse slats from the same profile are also mounted, connecting to each other with “crabs”.

Self-tapping screws or press washers are used for fastening. The attic ceiling made of plasterboard is also mounted on such a frame. To assemble it, you may need hangers with traction, since the length of the straight lines does not always allow for fastening frame structure. To assemble the ceiling base, the following work is carried out:

The lowest point is measured, and markings are made from it using a hydraulic level. All marks are connected with a marking cord.
According to the marks, guide profiles are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
The supporting rails from the profile are inserted into them and secured to press washers. If required, additional fastening is performed on hangers or rods.

With a significant length of the ceiling structure, the use of additional direct suspensions or fastenings with rods is mandatory!

Longitudinal support rails are also installed, which are connected to the transverse ones using connections.

Wooden frame

To assemble it, two types of slats are used - main and load-bearing. The main ones are attached to the rafter system with self-tapping screws, they serve as the basis for installation load-bearing beams. Load-bearing - serve as a support for plasterboard sheets.

Also, if you do not plan to create walls and partitions, you can attach the load-bearing slats directly to the rafters, which in turn will play the role of the main ones.

To install a wooden frame of walls, there is the following algorithm:

Install longitudinal slats.
The frame racks are mounted on them, connecting to the longitudinal rails using a mounting angle.
Insert cross bars, securing them to the posts.

If necessary, the frame is treated with an antiseptic and the installation of gypsum boards begins.

Rafters as a frame

You can also make a device for filing the gypsum plasterboard attic directly onto the rafter system. Alternatively, you can mount longitudinal slats, and then sheets of material are attached to them. Or you can mount gypsum boards directly on the rafters using wood screws, this is the most cheap finishing attic floor with plasterboard. In this case, you don’t even have to assemble the frame for the ceiling structure. In this option, finishing the attic ceiling with plasterboard follows all the shapes of the roof.

Stage 4: how to decorate an attic with plasterboard

The process is exactly the same as in a regular room.

As in any other case when working with drywall on finishing stage it is necessary to carry out putty and primer.

Sheets of material, if necessary, are cut to size.
Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, recessing the caps into the surface by 2 millimeters.
If you need to bend a sheet, then pierce the cardboard shell at the bend and wet the material. Next, the sheet is applied to the frame in the desired shape and secured. Once dry, it will take the desired shape.
Serpyanka is glued at the joints of the gypsum boards and further finishing begins.

A plasterboard attic made using technology will last a very long time and will allow you to increase the usable square footage of the house without significant investment.

Holders big houses very often they have a room such as an attic in their location. Its finishing has certain nuances, which can be resolved very easily when working with drywall.

Finishing attics plasterboard will help you make excellent repairs yourself and end up with a beautiful and insulated room.

The attic is a rather non-standard room, which has a sloping roof, as well as a lot of uneven corners. As a result, covering the attic floor requires foresight and prudence from a person. Of all modern materials It is plasterboard that is best suited for finishing this floor. With its help you can achieve:

excellent appearance premises;
sheathe all uneven corners;
qualitatively sew up all elements of the attic floor;
mask all unevenness and defects of the floor;
hide communications;
create a variety of functional and decorative designs: niches, shelves, arches, etc.;
level and insulate the room.

It is also worth noting that covering the attic floor with plasterboard is quite doable with your own hands. It will be easy if you follow certain rules.

What calculations are needed

Finishing attic floor involves carrying out extensive work. Therefore, in order for the cladding to be of high quality, you need to take into account certain nuances of this room:

location. Since the attic is located on top floor, it makes sense to carry out additional insulation of the room;
presence of uneven angles;
roof slope.

In order to take into account all the features of the attic floor, you need to draw up a drawing. It is compiled as follows:

we measure the room;
we put the parameters of the attic on paper;
we indicate the places where the frame is attached, especially in the corners;
mark the locations of the wires for additional lighting(if available).

Attic cladding diagram

Also note the dimensions plasterboard structures that are planned. Their parameters are applied to the paper: height, width and depth.
The drawing will help you calculate the exact amount of materials needed for the job. To ensure that there is exactly enough materials, 10% should be added to the final figure.

Materials and tools

Attic finishing drywall assumes that you have the following list of materials:

plasterboard sheets:

Note! For the attic floor, only moisture-resistant sheets should be used, which will prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

metal or wooden profiles;
dowels and screws;
insulation;
putty;
primer.

To carry out all the upcoming work, you will need the following tools:

drill-driver with a set of drills;
hammer drill with safety glasses;
building level;
knife for cutting plasterboard;
metal scissors;
tape measure with pencil;
set of trowels;
roller or brush.

With such a set of materials and tools, do-it-yourself attic cladding will go “without a hitch.”

Beginning of work

At the very beginning of the work, you should carry out preparations that will allow you to quickly and efficiently complete the repair. Preparatory stage includes the following procedures:

Insulation

clearing the floor of things and rubbish;
purchase required quantity materials, as well as tools required for work;
We insulate the premises;
We apply markings to the ceiling and walls according to the previously drawn drawing.

By following the steps described above, you can simplify your work as much as possible during the installation of structures.

Insulation of the room

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to insulate the floor. The attic is a room under a roof, so it can be much colder than the rest of the house, especially in winter. Therefore, before covering plasterboard sheets, the attic is insulated.
Can be used as insulation different materials:

Foam plastic, cotton wool, film

Styrofoam. It comes in different thicknesses: 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 mm. The thickness of the foam sheets should be selected based on temperature regime region of residence, ventilation of walls and roof. Their installation is very easy, so you can handle the insulation quickly. We seal the gaps between the plates with polyurethane foam;
mineral wool. It is also very often used for insulating attics. But it has certain disadvantages, among which carcinogenicity occupies a significant place. The dust that is generated during insulation is harmful to human health. Therefore, when working with mineral wool, you must adhere to safety measures. The thickness of mineral wool can be from 20 to 200 mm;
vapor-permeable film. It should be used if there is damage to the roof or walls. You need to attach it in such a way that the rough side of the film faces you. This film simply needs to be stretched between the rafters and secured with a stapler. For stronger fixation, thinner ones should be used. wooden beams, which are nailed along the rafters.

It should be noted that foam plastic and mineral wool can also be used at the stage of installing the frame for plasterboard slabs. In such a situation, they are inserted into the frame and then covered with sheets.
Note! During insulation, pay special attention to windows and doors, since this is where drafts most often occur due to poor-quality insulation.
In any situation, it is necessary that there are no gaps in the insulation. To seal the gaps remaining after insulation, you need to use polyurethane foam (when insulating with polystyrene foam) or leftover insulation (when insulating with mineral wool). After installing it, it is recommended to stretch a vapor-permeable film over the insulation (with the rough side inward to move moisture towards the street). We fix the film using a stapler. You can also fix this film with your own hands after finishing the installation of the frame, before attaching the plasterboard boards.

Frame installation

At this stage, you should prepare a frame for installing plasterboard slabs. Sheets of material in the attic can be installed in the following ways:

Attaching to rafters

to the rafters. It is used when the distance between adjacent rafters is 60–75 cm. It is considered the fastest and cheapest, but does not provide ideal alignment of the sheathing, since the rafters themselves are uneven. Therefore, 25 mm thick sheets should be used here;

on a wooden frame. IN in this case to create the frame you need to use specially treated wooden slats. It is allowed if the distance between the rafters is 60 cm. This method makes it possible to install insulation between the slats, which will improve the thermal insulation of the room. To level the surface, you can place pads under the slats;

Frames

Note! Replacement allowed wooden slats on hat profiles. They must also be attached to the rafters. With their help, you can achieve greater flexibility, but they exclude the possibility of using an additional layer of thermal insulation.

on a metal frame. Counts the best option. Here metal profiles are attached to ES hangers. With their help you can easily level the surface. Usually the metal frame is installed on anchor bolts. We place the anchors so that the distance between the profiles does not exceed 50 cm.

In any case, first carry out the sheathing around the perimeter (use the “UD” profile guides), and then install the transverse jumpers (“CD” profile racks) or beams. This will stabilize the structure and make it more rigid.
The distance between the rafters depends on the type of insulation. For foam plastic, this distance increases by 2-3 mm, and for mineral wool - by 5-7 cm.
During installation, you need to constantly check the level in order to ultimately get an even structure. Wiring needs to be done into the finished frame.

Plasterboard finishing

When completing the installation of the frame, using any of the above methods, it should be sheathed with sheets. Drywall in the attic should begin to be attached from the ceiling, and only then move on to the walls and only at the very end - to the slopes.
If load-bearing structures do not need to be constructed, thin sheets should be used. If there are niches and shelves, we take thicker slabs.
The plating proceeds as follows:

Sheathing with plasterboard

first we attach solid sheets;
Then we make markings on the sheets and cut them with a knife;
We apply it to the attachment point and, if necessary, trim it so that it fits perfectly. This should be done especially in corners and places of sufficient curvature of the room;
We attach the cut sheets to the frame with self-tapping screws. Here it is worth paying special attention to the insertion of screws. They should enter the material by 1-1.5 mm.

Note! Place the sheets one at a time to make your work much easier.
When the cladding is completed, we move on to the final finishing of the structure.

Final finishing

To finalize the attic, the following operations should be performed:

Treatment of joints with serpyanka

we treat the joints with serpyanka;
we putty the places where the screws are attached and the serpyanka;
we rub all the irregularities with sandpaper;
we prime the entire structure with a deep penetration solution;
Apply the final layer of putty. It is applied very thinly.

After this, the final finish can be applied. Thanks to the properties of plasterboard, it can be painted, covered with wallpaper, decorated with decorative stucco, or stylized as fake diamond etc. Therefore, you should choose a finishing option only based on your own preferences.
Following the instructions above, you can easily cover the attic floor of the house with your own hands. The main requirement is strict adherence to the stages of work and use quality materials. As a result, the attic will become a uniquely beautiful and warm room in your home.

Very often, when inhabiting the spaces under the roof, we build special double-glazed windows into the slopes, which is why, when it comes time to make a plasterboard ceiling, the attic requires special attention.

How to properly insulate an attic ceiling - choosing a material

Rooms under roof slopes tend to lose heat to a greater extent than walls. To understand this, it is enough to remember how much the roof heats up from direct sunlight, due to which the temperature inside increases significantly. In winter, gusts of icy wind may well freeze the attic if you do not take care of its high-quality sealing with solid thermal insulation, which still needs to be properly laid.

If in the premises of the first and second floors only one wall is in contact with the outside environment, a maximum of two in the corner room, then in the attic the area of contact with external conditions is larger - the entire roof and gables. You should not only know how to properly insulate an attic ceiling, but also be able to choose thermal insulation, the properties of which may be incompatible with the climatic characteristics of the area. Close attention should be paid to the degree of thermal conductivity of the material, which affects the thickness of the layer being laid.

Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) is considered the cheapest and most accessible, but it has a number of disadvantages. In particular, this is absolute airtightness, due to which the room is deprived natural ventilation, as well as the content of toxic substances released with smoke during fire. Mineral or fiberglass wool can provide high quality thermal insulation, however, over time, these materials tend to sag, creating voids through which cold begins to penetrate into the rooms.

In addition, physical aging of the fiber takes place, which, gradually turning into dust, begins to penetrate the room in the form of fine dust, having a negative effect on the lungs. Due to this basalt wool should be used with extreme caution. A good solution is rigid polyurethane foam, which provides reliable thermal insulation, provided there is no contact with sunlight. An alternative would be flax fiber in mats, but this is not a cheap material.

Plasterboard ceiling: do-it-yourself attic

Even the best insulation is unlikely to provide a smooth enough base for decorative finishing, therefore, you should first cover the rafter system with material in order to level the surface. For this the best way drywall is suitable. With its help, you can install the attic ceiling in a short time, even in the absence great experience. All it takes is basic knowledge geometry and a good eye. Let's look at the option of covering the under-roof space if there are roofs embedded in the slopes.

Plasterboard ceiling - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking the ceiling plane along the windows

If you are planning to install drywall, then the space between the rafters is already filled with thermal insulation, on top of which the transverse joists of the internal sheathing are stuffed. But even a small difference in the thickness of the roofing pie along the length of the slope can lead to the fact that the slopes of the built-in skylights will have incorrect geometry. To get their uniform width, measure from the top and bottom points of each frame the same distance to inner surface stingray If the segments do not coincide, mark the plane of the ceiling so that it is parallel to the double-glazed windows.

Step 2: Formation of side vertical slopes

Along the perimeter of the frames we attach profiles, cut to the appropriate length, so that the edges of the sides of the guides coincide with the edges of the glass unit. We leave space for the installation of drywall; it should be attached almost flush with the inner edge of the frame, and so that it does not subsequently interfere with the opening of the sash. On the inner surface of the roof, on the sides of the window niche, we place long profiles with emphasis on the lower and upper edges of the slope. We install them so that they are in one vertical plane with guides fixed near the glass unit.

Step 3:

We screw all the profiles to the hangers pre-fixed on the sheathing, bending the petals of the latter down. For reliability, we attach the hangers to the crossbars using small corners, installing them in the places where the perforated strips are folded.

We align the guides along the pre-tensioned cords according to the markings made. We install hangers on each crossbar or every other one.

Step 4: Formation of the upper and lower slopes

To ensure maximum light flux, we place the upper slope horizontally in relation to the roof slope, for which we attach a transverse guide oriented parallel to the floor along the marking lines under the ridge. We screw the supporting profiles to it with screws, the opposite ends of which are mounted in hangers installed on a transverse board fixed along the upper side of the frame. Parallel to the load-bearing ones, but in a different plane, located at an angle of 90 degrees, we attach short sections of the profile, which will become part of the side slopes. For the lower one, we simply fix the crossbar under the guide, fixed along the bottom side of the frame.

Step 5:

Cutting out fragments from the insulation the desired shape and carefully place it in the gaps between the frame profiles. In our case, rolled fiberglass is used as thermal insulation. Izover, however, any alternative in the form of slabs thin enough to be laid between the profiles will do. To ensure that the insulation holds well, we unbend the petals of the suspensions along its surface.

Step 6: Plasterboard Sheathing

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, the attic is completely insulated on top of the sheathing with another layer of thermal insulation, which will not be superfluous in harsh winter conditions. Laying it down roll material between the profiles and fix them with the petals of the suspensions.

Then we fasten the sheets of dry plaster with self-tapping screws in increments of at least 60 centimeters. In areas of the frame with complex geometry, we cut out fragments of the appropriate shape exactly to the dimensions.

How to cover the ceiling in the attic, in addition to plasterboard

So we've looked at simplest example covering the under-roof space with dry plaster. However, this is far from the only option. In particular, it is entirely acceptable to use moisture-resistant plywood, which can become the basis for decorative finishing; ceiling leveling is also achieved using chipboard sheets, especially tongue-and-groove ones. An excellent solution when in doubt about what to sheathe with is OSB boards, which are connected to each other very tightly using a tongue-and-groove method.

As alternative option drywall can become suspended ceiling, which is quite easy to install and in combination with structures made of dry plaster.

How independent option, can be used wooden lining or PVC siding, aluminum slatted ceilings have also proven themselves recently. All these materials do not require additional finishing and are already of high quality. decorative coating, Truth, slatted ceiling It’s quite difficult to do it in the attic with your own hands. But plywood or OSB with chipboard should definitely be covered with wallpaper or lined with polystyrene tiles.