Strawberry when to trim your mustache. When to trim strawberries in the summer and how to do it correctly? When should strawberry whiskers be trimmed?

Strawberries belong to those crops that quickly grow in free soil without the attention of the gardener. That is why pruning strawberries in the spring is one of the mandatory measures for caring for the crop. Without pruning, the bushes will grow quickly, and it will be difficult to form a neat bed.

There is a certain scheme for pruning strawberries, and we will describe it in detail in this article. You will also learn what autumn pruning is used for and how to carry it out correctly, and photos and videos will help you acquire the skills necessary for the job.

The main purpose of pruning strawberries in the spring is to renew the bushes after winter. If the winter was cold and with little snow, some shoots of the crop may freeze and must be removed immediately so that the plant does not waste its vitality.

In addition, in the spring, bushes are inspected for diseases, and if signs of pathology are found, damaged bushes or individual shoots are removed and burned.

What is it for?

This procedure involves removing all leaves in the fall to enhance root formation.

Note: Gardeners are divided on whether it is worth thinning out their bushes in the spring. You have to make this choice yourself. To do this, you need to consider all the pros and cons.

Positive factors of spring pruning include:(picture 1):

  • It promotes the development of the root system. After removing the stem, all useful substances are found only in the roots, thereby thickening them and saturating them with minerals, vitamins and macroelements necessary for wintering.
  • The bushes become more winter-hardy. Many gardeners believe that after thinning the leaves, the plant tolerates frost better.
  • Using this procedure, all pathogens and pests that are on diseased and dried leaves are removed.

Figure 1. Stages of crop pruning

Now let's look at the disadvantages of spring pruning. Firstly, during the process of removing shoots and leaves, most of the pests fall to the ground and overwinter. Many die under the influence of frost, so it is better to remove frozen leaves in the spring than in the fall.

Secondly, the generative buds from which the fruits develop are removed during thinning. After all, the buds for next year are laid in the fall.

Thirdly, after spring cleaning, the bushes take longer to form. This is due to the fact that due to the improved root system, the green mass will take a long time to accumulate, as a result, fruiting occurs later.

In any case, to avoid negative consequences, the procedure should be carried out very carefully, trying not to touch the axil of the upper leaves. Thus, you will have a rich harvest, and the bushes will fully develop.

When to prune strawberries in spring

Experienced gardeners have not come to a consensus on when it is best to prune strawberries. Some believe that it is better to carry out this procedure in the spring, others - in the summer, and still others prefer such work in the fall.

One way or another, in the month of March, each bush must be thoroughly cleaned of diseased and frozen branches, as well as those on which spots or pests are visible. Foliage that lies on the ground must also be removed. Carrying out such work in the spring will not affect the harvest in any way, but pest control will be carried out.

Should strawberries be trimmed in the spring?

Whether or not you need to trim the mustache in the spring depends on whether you plan to propagate a certain variety or not. If your goal is to get a high yield, it is enough to remove the formed shoots in a timely manner (Figure 2).

Note: Whiskers on the bushes appear immediately after flowering. There are not many of them at this time. Whiskers begin to appear en masse after fruiting. It is better to remove the mustache in the spring before flowering and in the fall, after harvesting.

The mustache should be cut on a dry, windless day in the early morning or late evening. They are removed with pruners or scissors, but not torn off, since the tendrils are very strong and can damage the bush or its root system.


Figure 2. Trimming mustaches on bushes

The mustache is also removed so that the area does not thicken. After all, the denser the bed, the worse it is blown by the wind, the longer the moisture remains, as a result of which the berries are affected by gray rot.

Spring pruning of strawberries: video

If you have never pruned, or are just starting to grow this crop on your site, we recommend that you watch the video, which shows in detail all the stages of this procedure and caring for the crop in general.

Scheme for pruning strawberries in spring

As mentioned above, the opinions of experts regarding pruning crops in summer and autumn are divided. Some argue that such a procedure harms the plant, others convince that after removing the unusable leaves, the yield will increase significantly.

One way or another, spring cleaning should still be carried out. This procedure allows you to remove weak leaves on the bushes and not waste the plant’s energy on unnecessary shoots, but direct all its energy to the development of berries.


Figure 3. Features of spring pruning

The spring pruning scheme includes the following stages:(Figure 3):

  1. Using a sharp pruning shears, remove all dead shoots, darkened and damaged leaves, as well as leaves lying on the ground from the bush.
  2. If you do not plan to plant the bush, then the young rosettes are removed.
  3. During thinning, we clear the bushes of weeds.
  4. We remove cut leaves and stems, as well as weeds from the site and burn them.
  5. We carefully loosen the soil around the bushes with a steel rod.

After this, the bed must be watered abundantly and special fertilizers for berry crops must be applied.

Do I need to prune strawberries in the fall?

There is no consensus regarding the need for autumn pruning. Some gardeners believe that interfering with the natural cycle will harm the plant, others argue that a little stress will not harm the bushes, but on the contrary will increase productivity.

It is important to consider that for good yields, the bushes should be properly prepared for wintering. They should be fully formed, with healthy, regrown leaves.

Pruning is usually carried out until the end of July, maximum until mid-August. If it is carried out later, the kidneys may not have time to develop. Only the plates of old leaves are removed, leaving the stems intact. This is done with small pruners or sharp scissors. All mustaches are also removed, the soil is cultivated, and the bushes are hilled. After this, the plants are thoroughly watered, sprinkled with ash and mulched.

Renewed bushes with strong foliage will easily endure the winter. In the spring, it will be necessary to remove only the leaves damaged by wintering.

Pruning strawberries in summer

In summer, during the fruiting process, the plants are not thinned out, but the tendrils that are actively forming on the bushes are removed.

This procedure is necessary, since each tendril can form a new young bush, and the bed will lose its correct shape. However, if you plan to propagate the crop, some of the tendrils can be left.

Peculiarities

Summer pruning usually begins in August, when the harvest has already been harvested. When pruning in summer, the bushes must be freed from the tendrils, leaving only the first ones for propagation, if this is part of your plans.

Note: In order to rejuvenate the bushes or get rid of fungal diseases, they are pruned almost to the ground. If there is no need to cut so short, only diseased leaves are removed, leaving more thorough cleaning for the fall. After pruning, the plants are disinfected, fertilized and covered with ash.

Remontant varieties, which are grown on long, erect stems, are thinned out in the summer, which allows the berries to receive more sunlight. On average, 7-8 stems are left on a two-year bush, all the rest are removed. By autumn, trimmed bushes have time to build up green mass and reserve strength for the winter.

Rules

When carrying out summer pruning, certain rules are followed. Firstly, removal of leaves and shoots can only be done in dry weather, preferably in the early morning or evening. Secondly, leaves should not be pulled out with your hands, so as not to damage the bushes or roots. For this purpose, use sharp scissors or pruners.

Thirdly, the length of the petioles from the base of the bushes should be 5-7 cm. After this, the plants should be watered abundantly and treated with agents against pests and diseases for prevention. It is also necessary to remove weeds from the rows and loosen the soil.

Do I need to prune strawberries after fruiting?

After fruiting, the plants begin to develop young foliage. Old leaves fade and become unnecessary for the plant - they begin to die off (Figure 4).

Note: Some gardeners advise removing them from the garden so that diseases and pests do not infect the young leaves, while others insist that pruning the leaves will weaken the bush.

In this regard, a compromise option is recommended: if the bushes are heavily infected, then it is better to get rid of old leaves, and if the plantings are relatively healthy, leave them in place. This method is good to use if you grow strawberries in large quantities. But if you have two or three beds, then the old leaves can be carefully cut off without touching the new ones. This will prevent the spread of fungal diseases throughout the plantings and you will not have to overuse chemicals.


Figure 4. Pruning strawberries after fruiting

When pruning plants from different years of planting, start with the youngest and alternately move on to the older ones. This is done in order to avoid spreading pest larvae on the instruments.

After cutting, the bushes must be fed so that they have time to grow before the cold weather. You will find more information on caring for strawberries in spring, summer and autumn in the video.

From letters to the editor:

Is it necessary to pick off the mustache of strawberries? And if so, when is the best time to do this? Will the bushes hurt after this?

The question, as they say, is interesting. It's all about what you want from the plant. First of all, I want to say that the widespread use of the name "strawberry" fundamentally wrong. Indeed, there is such a plant strawberry, they say, even grows wild in forests, for example, in the Urals. My friends told me that they picked the berries of this plant in the forest there, they are tasty, fragrant, and have a nutmeg aroma. Breeders created several varieties of strawberries, but this plant is bisexual: on one bush there are only female flowers - they will bear berries after pollination, on the other there are male flowers - for pollination. This fact itself suggests that the yield from such plantings will be lower. But, in addition, strawberries have significantly smaller fruits than strawberries. I have never yet had the opportunity to communicate with a gardener or summer resident who would grow any variety of strawberries.

And what grows in any garden plot, in the personal gardens of rural residents and in dachas is nothing more than garden strawberries(you can also add - large-fruited). It is this plant that has spread throughout the world; many hundreds, maybe thousands of its varieties are known. But gardeners stubbornly call strawberries garden strawberries. Moreover, this term is already found in many gardening magazines and newspapers. Gardeners are probably afraid that their garden strawberries will be confused with wild strawberries.

Now to the question of the mustache. They actually actively form on plants of almost all varieties of garden strawberries. There are, however, varieties that produce very few whiskers, and there are varieties that do not produce them at all. For example, these are large-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries: varieties Ali Baba, Baron Solemacher, Ada, Ryugen, Sakhalin remontant, and Yellow Miracle. And these varieties can be propagated either by dividing the bush or by seeds.

But most varieties of mustache are driven out, and quite a lot. So what to do with them? There may be two options here. The first is to remove all mustaches, because the plant spends a lot of energy and nutrients on their formation, and this means a decrease in the yield of garden strawberries (strawberries - I repeat, as many people incorrectly call them).

The second option is to leave the mustache. For what? To propagate this variety and create a new strawberry plantation. But there are a lot of whiskers; some bushes literally entangle the entire space around them with them. If you allow them to do this, you will see few berries. What is the way out?

Here again there are two ways. Very experienced gardeners who are seriously involved in growing garden strawberries, and they need a lot of seedlings to plant more and more new plantations, create special beds in their garden - queen cells, on which they plant bushes of the best varieties of garden strawberries that they want to propagate. They plant them more freely, not like in a garden bed, so that there is space for the tendrils to extend and successfully attach to the soil. Moreover, these gardeners even tear off the entire ovary, preventing the fruits from forming, so that the mother plants do not waste their nutrients on this, and direct all their efforts to forcing out the tendrils and providing them with nutrition until the young plants themselves create a powerful root system and will begin to feed from the soil. As a result, such gardeners on the mother plant receive strong, healthy seedlings of garden strawberries of the varieties they need, not only for their own needs, but also for sale to everyone.

As far as I understand, you, Marina, are a beginner gardener if you are interested in the fate of the whiskers on garden strawberry bushes. Usually, the first whiskers appear on them with the beginning of flowering, and the main, massive forcing of the whiskers occurs after the end of fruiting. Therefore, if you do not need young strawberry seedlings to renew your plantings or expand them, then remove the mustaches as they appear. Experts recommend not picking them off, because you can harm the plant itself, and young bushes can generally be pulled out by pulling the tendrils. They need to be cut with scissors or pruning shears, leaving a piece of tendril up to 10 cm long near the bush.

If you want to propagate your own varieties of garden strawberries, then you need to keep the mustache, but not all of it. Usually, only the first, strong rosette is left, which is next to the mother bush, the rest are distant, weaker rosettes and the mustache is cut off. And you can even help the first outlet take root in its place. Before it has formed a bunch of roots and taken root, you can even move it to the place you need. For example, if a bush in this row next door died (froze), then in its place you can root this rosette, which will eventually fill the free space. Or move the outlet to a free sunny place in the aisle, creating favorable conditions for it. In this case, you can even gently press the mustache near this rosette with a wire or wooden slingshot so that it comes into closer contact with the soil, you can add humus to it (without covering the heart) and even water it from time to time. Then this rosette will quickly form a healthy bush, which can be separated from the mother plant in August and transplanted with a lump of earth to a permanent place allocated for a new plantation. Before the cold weather, such young seedlings will create a powerful root system, dense foliage and will easily endure the winter, and next summer they will delight you with the first harvest. But you need to take such rosettes only from the very first tendrils that strawberries expel at the beginning of flowering and preferably from those plants that were very productive last season. Or wait until garden strawberries produce a harvest this season and select the first rosettes from the most productive varieties and bushes of a given variety.

I repeat, It is advisable to leave only the first rosettes formed near the mother plant, and in total there should be no more than three such rosettes from this bush (from different whiskers). Otherwise it will weaken the plant.

About pruning times: here you either need to constantly trim, preventing the canes from spreading throughout the plantation (if you don’t need planting material), or trim off all the tendrils after fruiting has ended.

E. Valentinov

Photo by Olga Rubtsova

Strawberries (garden strawberries) give a good harvest only in fertile and properly cultivated beds with timely removal of weeds, fertilizing the bushes with fertilizers and loosening the soil. Various methods are used to propagate berries. The use of one or the other depends on the plant variety.

How do strawberries reproduce?

Garden strawberries can be propagated in 3 ways:

  • sprouts are obtained by sowing seeds;
  • increase the number by dividing bushes;
  • obtain new specimens using the plant's tendrils.

Strawberries (garden strawberries) give a good harvest

The latter method of reproduction is used more often than others. It retains all the characteristics of the parent in young plants. Strawberries send out tendrils to capture area, directing them in all directions from the main stem. For a gardener, growing new bushes with their help is the easiest way to propagate berries, because obtaining seedlings from seeds requires certain knowledge and qualifications, and dividing by bushes is impossible for most remontant varieties.

Novice gardeners are often interested in whether or not they should trim their mustache. It all depends on the intentions regarding the type of strawberry to be propagated.

  • If a summer resident wants to increase or completely renew his berry plantings, he needs to purchase or grow the desired samples. To obtain stable and healthy seedlings at the beginning of fruiting, it is recommended to mark the strongest plants that have produced the largest harvest of large fruits this season. Next year, it is they who are left to produce mustaches, not allowing buds to form during flowering. All interfering shoots are removed from such bushes, leaving only developing mustaches. After this, they are separated, used to produce seedlings, and then transplanted into permanent beds. The main disadvantage of this method is the impossibility of obtaining long mustaches and high-quality fruits.
  • If you plan to get a productive specimen of a berry bush that will produce a large number of fruits, you need to prevent excessive density of foliage and shoots on it. In this case, it is recommended to promptly cut off all the tendrils that appear on the plant. If you refuse this procedure, the growing shoots will take away from the mother bush all the minerals necessary for development. After the bush begins to bloom, it may become sick due to lack of nutrition and small berries will grow on it.

Important! Excessive planting density also leads to the development of fungal infections, which are difficult to treat.

Experts recommend removing the tendrils regardless of whether they are used for plant propagation or whether the gardener simply destroys them. High-quality specimens suitable for producing seedlings are most often formed in the first year of planting seedlings. This occurs when daylight hours are at least 12-14 hours and temperatures are above 16°C. Subsequently, the tendrils become small, and by the end of the vegetative period of the variety they practically do not develop.

When to prune

Many summer residents are interested in when to trim the mustache of strawberries and how to carry out this procedure. There is a method developed by specialists for this.

Important! The gardener must decide exactly why he needs to get rid of the tendrils on the bushes. If this is done for propagation, then you need to carefully cut them off at the appropriate moment. When new planting material is not needed, unwanted shoots can simply be torn off from the stems. In the same way, they get rid of new antennae that appear on the treated area.

It’s important to choose the right time to pick the mustache of a strawberry.

It is also worth choosing the right time when to pick the mustache of a strawberry:

  • If this is necessary to obtain planting material, then a year before the procedure, the most productive specimens of bushes are selected. After this, in the spring they are not allowed to bloom and develop ovaries. In summer or autumn, well-developed mustaches are trimmed and then rooted. For collection, shoots are used, on which the largest rosette is left.
  • When setting the task of obtaining the maximum number of fruits from each bush, spring or early summer is chosen for pruning the mustache, and then new shoots are removed in the fall.

On garden strawberry bushes, these formations first appear during flowering, and then the process of their development, growth and full formation occurs throughout the summer, ending only in early autumn. The mustache removal process takes place in 2 stages:

  1. Initially, it is recommended to remove them before flowering or immediately after the buds fall off, when many ovaries have already appeared, but the berries have not yet begun to ripen. This is the period when spring ends and summer has not yet arrived. Removing the mustache will have virtually no effect on the yield, but this procedure must be carried out carefully and in a timely manner. Then the strawberries will use all the nutrients to grow berries, and this will allow you to collect tasty and large fruits.
  2. Next time, you need to remove unnecessary tendrils during autumn pruning of foliage. These operations are carried out in the last week of August, although for many remontant hybrids the deadline is pushed back to mid-September. In many regions of Russia, this time depends on the specific weather conditions characteristic of the location of the vegetable garden or garden.

Most summer residents prefer to do intermediate cutting of the tendrils immediately after the end of the fruiting process.

Important! There is a dependence: the more often a person plucks these shoots throughout the year, the less the plant weakens.

This allows you to extend the life of the bushes, stretching them over 2-3 seasons. But it is better to buy new seedlings every year when planting annual hybrids. If the variety is productive and retains its properties for 3-4 years, then this method makes it possible to increase the yield of berries by 15%.

Obtaining mustaches for reproduction is done in the following way:

  1. For the procedure, you need to take the strongest bushes, which have a large number of horns. Hybrids that have produced large and tasty fruits this year are suitable for propagation. They cannot be allowed to bloom in the new season, so you should immediately remove the buds and ovaries. This will lead to the development of a large number of rosettes and long antennae.
  2. When their growth reaches its maximum, it is advisable to leave no more than 3 daughter formations on each bush. Only large and strong rosettes that grow closest to the mother trunk need to be preserved.
  3. Other whiskers with rosettes of the second and higher orders will be weakened in comparison with the preserved specimens, so they are simply torn off. It is undesirable to use them for breeding seedlings due to the lack of the necessary immunity to various diseases.
  4. If you need to get a lot of seedlings, then inexperienced gardeners try to use second-row sockets. But their number should not exceed 2 units from each mother plant. If this rule is violated, seedlings obtained using such mustaches and rosettes quickly wither.
  5. Samples taken from bushes need to be rooted. There are 2 ways to do this - direct sowing in the ground and germinating seedlings. In the first case, trimmed mustaches with rosettes are pressed against the garden bed in the spring with a wooden or wire pin, and then sprinkled with soil. In the second method, they are installed in a cup with a nutritious substrate of peat, manure and river sand. These components are first mixed with superphosphate.
  6. After the roots develop, leaves will begin to form at the buried part of the tendril. When 2-3 of them appear, it means the gardener did everything right. Then all that remains is to water it once a month, feed it, and then transplant it to a permanent place. If it’s hot, the irrigation is doubled.

Samples taken from bushes need to be rooted

To prevent the process of removing whiskers from causing a painful reaction in plants, it is recommended to follow these rules during this procedure:

  • Hybrids are processed by the gardener only on a warm and dry day. High humidity promotes infection of bushes with dangerous fungal diseases or viral infections of berries due to the penetration of pathogenic structures through the cut.
  • In hot weather or drought, it is recommended to carry out all manipulations in the evening or early in the morning. At this time, hybrids are less susceptible to stress from ultraviolet radiation from the sun. It is not recommended to carry out procedures in fog or heavy rain.
  • You cannot pull off the antennae with your hands. These formations are quite strong, so inexperienced gardeners tear out the entire plant along with them. For the procedure, you should take a sharply sharpened garden knife or pruning shears. The cut should be smooth. It should not be exposed to soil, otherwise it may become infected with soil fungi or bacteria.

Important! When pruning a shoot, you should not tear it off near the root rosettes. You should always leave a part of the antennae 70-100 mm long.

Problems with mustache placement and their solutions

Using the method of propagating strawberries by tendrils, novice gardeners make the following mistakes:

  • Incorrect selection of the required shoots. It is recommended to choose the longest specimens on which large rosettes have formed.
  • The landing dates were chosen incorrectly. Experienced gardeners have been planting strawberry tendrils since the last ten days of July. Then they take root faster, and after enduring the winter cold, the sprouts acquire the necessary immunity. But in the southern regions of Russia, where summers are often dry and hot, mustache planting should be done in early autumn. Then it is recommended to wait for rainy weather and transfer the seedlings to the beds. In the northern regions, the resulting seedlings are planted in late spring.

Important! Planting the crop in early summer or autumn before the onset of cold weather is prohibited. In the first case, the sprouts will die from the heat, and in the second - from frost.

You need to learn how to handle plants with garden shears

Another mistake novice farmers make is the reluctance to use tools when removing whiskers. They believe that shoots can be plucked by hand. But then it is almost impossible to maintain the length of the remaining part. This will lead to damage to the mother bush and infection. To avoid this problem, you need to learn how to handle plants with garden shears.

In addition, people make the following mistakes in the process of propagating berries with their mustache:

  • A sprout with a lot of foliage is planted. The bush that grows from it gives a small harvest. To eliminate this problem, you need to cut off all the leaves, leaving only 3 pieces on the seedling that grow from the center.
  • Many people mistakenly believe that seedlings need to have long roots. But in reality they become bent and damaged, and the bushes wither. Therefore, when planting, you need to shorten the roots to 100 mm and then straighten them.
  • People forget to disinfect the soil in their garden beds. A weak solution of potassium permanganate is used for the procedure. This is done before installing the sprout in place.
  • An attempt to use organic fertilizer can lead to the death of strawberry hybrids or a sharp decrease in yield. It is recommended to feed the berries with biohumos or compost based on horse manure. The use of large amounts of nitrogen fertilizers promotes the appearance of pests. Therefore, the gardener must introduce fertilizing strictly at the allotted time, in the doses indicated on the labels.
  • Summer residents forget to hill up seedlings in a timely manner. To eliminate problems, it is recommended to mulch the plantings with hay, straw, sawdust, and pine needles. It is better not to use film or cardboard, as they cause the seedlings to overheat in hot weather, and in the spring excess moisture condenses on them.
  • Planting berry seedlings in several rows in one place is considered the most common mistake. It is better to make several narrow beds, then they will be easy to process.
  • Placing seedlings too close leads to deterioration in fruiting due to a lack of nutrients for all seedlings. In such crowded conditions, the disease gray rot develops. Therefore, a distance of 0.35-0.5 m is maintained between bushes.
  • Summer residents forget to remove old leaves from the soil and weed weeds before planting seedlings. This leads to fungal infections. Therefore, before planting, you need to completely clear the area of ​​all debris.

Important! If a gardener is not confident in his knowledge and abilities, he should not try to propagate strawberries with mustaches. It is better to buy ready-made seedlings from reliable manufacturers.

There is nothing complicated about propagating strawberries with a mustache. When using any methods that allow you to use a remote shoot to obtain a new bush, you must strictly follow all the requirements. If this is not done, the seedlings will quickly wither. The main thing is to choose the right planting time, based on the climatic conditions of the region where the summer resident lives.

When cutting off mustaches is used to increase yield, one should not forget about timely watering, loosening and feeding of hybrids. Simply removing excess shoots will not bring results without performing all agrotechnical measures.

Greetings, dear readers!

Strawberries are one of the most popular garden crops. Gardeners put a lot of work into ensuring that it blooms, bears fruit and reproduces. Strawberry mustache is a favorite variety of crop that retains the characteristics of the selected variety. Let's talk in more detail about what kind of mustaches are taken from strawberries for propagation and about the transplantation process itself.

Why is a mustache removed?

As soon as the strawberries finish blooming, whiskers appear. Their quantity depends on different varieties of berries. There are also other varieties for which propagation occurs in a different way. , this question worries many gardeners. If the goal is to add bushes or update a garden bed, then you need good starting material.

During the ripening of the fruits of the current season, it is necessary to mark the best bushes that bear large fruits. In the next season, it is these specimens that will be used for reproduction.

Before flowering, all inflorescences for future berries are removed from the bush itself; the mustache cannot be removed from these specimens. They must fully develop until the moment when they need to be separated from the mother’s main bush and moved to another place.

For a good harvest, it is necessary to destroy all young shoots so that there is no thickening of the beds, the berries absorb all the necessary substances from the maternal source, without receiving other interference. Overgrown strawberry beds grow exposed and treatment becomes difficult.

Timing for mustache removal

Whiskers begin to appear during flowering, strengthening and forming over the entire summer period. If the seedling material is not needed, it is recommended to remove it. The process of destroying mustaches occurs in two stages:

At the very beginning of flowering.

At the moment of berry set.

It is during these periods that the harvest will not suffer from such actions if they are performed carefully. After this procedure, all useful substances will be directed to the growth and development of the fruits themselves, which will allow you to get a good harvest. These shoots should be removed again in the fall along with trimming the strawberry leaves.

The removal period depends on the climate of the region and weather. It would be a good idea to additionally carry out this procedure after picking the berries. The more often you remove unnecessary mustaches, the stronger and fuller the main bush becomes. In the future, this will allow you to get an excellent harvest for several summer seasons from the same bed. There are several important points about correct mustache removal, including:

Dry and warm weather.

On a hot day, exercise in the morning or evening.

Use good garden shears.

Do not cut close to the central bush.

Growing strawberries in a new bed

To grow good varieties of strawberries, you need to use the best and strongest planting material. In the garden, you need to choose the healthiest and most powerful bush that has produced a lot of fruit this season, and get your own seedlings from it. Next season, you should not let the selected specimen bloom. All nutritional power is directed not to the ripening of berries, but to the development and growth of tendrils and inflorescences.

No more than three tendrils are left on the main plant.

On selected specimens, allow three daughter inflorescences to establish themselves.

Sockets of the second and third orders are removed.

If necessary, you can leave second-order inflorescences if they are well accepted.

Selected daughter inflorescences should be rooted, pressed to the ground and sprinkled with soil.

The selected rosette grows until the root system is fully developed.

Do not separate the inflorescences from the mother bush until it has three leaves.

Transplant the young bush to a permanent place.

It is best to transplant seedlings at the end of August to allow them to take root in a new place before the onset of cold weather. Only in this case will it definitely produce the first harvest in the new season.

You can replant the seedlings in the spring, waiting until the soil warms up well. The prepared plot of land is loosened, ash and any mineral are added. fertilizer, form a bed. A distance of 20 cm is left between the plants, and there should be about 50 cm between the rows. The plant will produce little or no fruit this season, but it will be able to take root well throughout the summer and will even produce tendrils. Under no circumstances should you destroy the shoots with your hands, as you can damage the root of the main bush.

Talking about what kind of whiskers are taken from strawberries for reproduction?, we cannot fail to mention one main rule that gardeners should remember - you cannot take mustaches from a fruit-bearing bush for seedlings. Some of the nutrients have already been wasted on the ripening of the berries, which means that the mustache is weak. And they can be used for seedlings only the next year after fruiting.

You only need a few bushes used as mother bushes. And next year, a small but renewed bed will be formed with a real first harvest. Strawberries propagate quickly and easily with their mustache; no special effort is required. A person spends much more work throughout the entire summer season to remove his mustache.

See you, dear readers!

Strawberries are a very tasty dessert and quite a profitable business for modern farmers. Therefore, many try to grow it on their plot and wonder whether it is possible to propagate strawberries with mustaches. Reproduction is possible.

In the first year, the mustache is removed from each bush, and when the fruits ripen, strong bushes are chosen, which are distinguished by large berries. They are marked to be used to propagate strawberries using runners.

Such bushes are called “mother bushes”. The following year, berries are not allowed to appear on the mother bushes. For this remove all buds before the flowering period begins.

The best time to transplant is spring and early summer. Within a month, mustaches will appear on the uterine bushes, on which rosettes will be tied. Large rosettes located next to the mother bush have branched roots and are used to propagate seedlings and for strawberries to reproduce.

The remaining whiskers are not used for further reproduction, so they are cut with sharp scissors, making an oblique cut. Often you have to remove your mustache several times per season.

You cannot separate a mustache with a strong rosette from the mother bush.

Methods of breeding with a mustache

Strawberry propagation options:

  1. Using cups (pots).
  2. Planting on the beds.

How to propagate in pots

Necessary:

  • Prepare small glasses (pots). Fill with fertilizers.
  • Plant the rosette in the pot. The seedlings are left on the site, buried 1/3 of the way into the soil.
  • The shoot is watered daily. Make sure that no puddles appear.

How to plant in garden beds

  1. Prepare the soil. Place peat and sawdust on the garden bed - fertilizer for strawberries.
  2. Pin sockets to the ground, deepen into plowed soil. In this case, the tail will be visible in the soil, and the rosette will be visible above the ground.
  3. Water and monitor as you would other seedlings.

The right time to trim and replant your mustache

A couple of weeks before planting, the mustache connecting the rosette to the mother bush is cut. Young plants will begin to feed from their own roots. You need to separate the rosette from the main bush in time otherwise the yield decreases.

Infected and damaged leaves are also cut off. If a young plant withers, it is shaded and watered so that it begins to feed on its own.

Plants are transplanted into open ground after they take root. When planted early, the plants will become stronger by winter, and the root system will become branched and powerful, which will allow them to survive the winter.

Sometimes by mid-summer in June the required number of whiskers for replanting does not grow. Then the shoots for propagation are collected throughout the season. But we must not forget that it is better to take such mustaches and transplant them to a permanent place in early autumn no later than September, since bushes planted later will not survive the winter.


How to trim correctly

Mandatory rules:

  1. Mustache is trimmed in dry, sunny weather. It is advisable to do pruning in the morning or evening in spring or summer.
  2. For pruning, use sharp garden scissors or a small pruner, cut at a distance 10 centimeters from the mother bush.

What mistakes do they make?

  1. Circumcision is carried out in rainy spring or in hot sunny times. In hot weather, plants are susceptible to diseases. In wet weather, the risk of fungal and bacterial infections through the cut increases.
  2. Short trim the mustache. Leads to drying out.
  3. Tear off mustache. Together with the tendril, you can completely remove the plant or partially tear off the tender roots.

Rules for planting trimmed mustaches

Breeding rules step by step:

    • The bed should be located on a flat area; there may be a slight slope facing southwest. There should be no trees nearby. Strawberries are a light-loving plant; with a small amount of sunlight, the berries will be small and unsweetened.
    • Use soil containing a lot of sand. Clay soil will create waterlogging, which will lead to root rot.
    • Before planting, remove the weeds along with the rhizomes. If the area is not cleared, the quality of strawberry growth and harvest will be affected.
    • Dig the ground to depth 25 centimeters
    • It is necessary to plant bushes in the garden in wet weather.
    • Bed width approx. 1 meter.

Use a one-line or two-line landing method:

    • One-liner– the lines (beds) are at a distance of 60-80 centimeters from each other, and the bushes in the bed are at a distance of 15-20 centimeters.
    • Two-line– the distance between the beds is 60-80 centimeters, and the gap between plants is 20-40 centimeters.
  • Water the soil before and after planting strawberries. The soil should always be moist.
  • Plant in one row no more than 2 varieties of strawberries.
  • Place seedlings of several varieties in rows - 1-3 rows of each variety.

When planting seedlings, the “heart” should be at ground level. If it is located lower, the plant will begin to rot, if higher, it will dry out or freeze.

To understand whether the strawberry bush is planted correctly, you need to pull yourself a little. When planted correctly, the plant will not be pulled out.

  • When planting seedlings, use about 0.5-0.7 liters of water per seedling. Then, for two weeks, the seedlings are irrigated 2-3 times a day, after which watering is reduced - after 1-2 days. Watering is carried out along the furrows.
  • Loosening is necessary. Allows moisture to be better retained in the ground and promotes aeration of the root system, preventing the appearance of crust on the ground. Hard soil is first watered abundantly, and only then loosened. When loosening, you can hill up the seedlings a little.
  • 3-4 weeks after planting strawberries, it is necessary to inspect the seedlings. If dead or wilted plants are found, they removed and new ones planted in their place.
  • Weed regularly.
  • For the winter the landing is insulated. Pine needles are used; they allow air to pass through well and protect against frost.

Growing strawberries is not a complicated process, the main thing is to follow the basic rules. You need to choose the right mother bushes, prepare the seedlings, trim the tendrils in a timely manner, prepare the soil well, remove and remove weeds, feed and follow the instructions.

Provide constant care for both rosettes and seedlings throughout the summer season. And then it will be possible to achieve good fruiting and reap a rich harvest.

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