The bathroom in the apartment is the most damp place, and the closest attention should be paid to the arrangement of its ventilation. Regular water treatments for residents produce saturated water vapor.
It condenses on the walls and ceiling, leading to dampness and the growth of fungi and mold. The hood in the bathroom should supply 25 - 50 m 3 / h of fresh air.
If the room is combined with a bathroom, then even more - about 50 - 100 m 3 . How to choose equipment and organize everything correctly.
Before buying anything, it is important to find out what types of ventilation systems there are in the bathroom. There are only two of them:
- Natural.
- Forced.
Natural ventilation
Air flows are mixed and displaced due to pressure and temperature differences. You can ensure free circulation by simply opening the door, but this is not convenient, and wet air still remains in the apartment.
In apartment buildings houses usually have a common ventilation shaft. The entrance to it is closed with a grill, and the degree of cleaning and efficiency will depend on the condition of the channel.
In private homes channels for natural ventilation are laid during construction. However, you can make changes and install ventilation pipes in the attic in the finished building.
- The grill covering the hole should be located in the upper part of the room, and in the bathroom even the best option- ceiling.
- Several exhaust devices on the same floor can be combined into one exit.
- Surface inside ventilation pipes should be as smooth as possible.
- Duct bends and protrusions reduce circulation efficiency by 5% each.
- If turning is necessary, it must be made smooth.
Experts consider natural ventilation to be ineffective and advise avoiding its use for residential buildings(more suitable for country houses where people are not present all year round).
Forced ventilation
Sometimes forced exhaust is required in the bathroom. This type of ventilation is much more productive than the first. Involves application mechanical devices. Usually this is a duct or overhead fan that can turn on as needed, create draft and thus refresh the air. Air ducts are also installed, which supply waste flow to the attic of a private house.
The fan only provides air exhaust. Its fresh influx should enter from the rooms of the house through open door or a gap under the door. But you can’t do forced ventilation in the bathroom!
Bathroom fans: types
There are two types of structures:
- Axial.
- Radial or centrifugal.
Axial
This is a classic impeller mounted on a shaft.
The impeller blades are made at a slight angle. The shaft is rotated by an electric motor.
Thrust is created and the fan sucks in the flow, passing it through itself and being cooled by it.
The design is popular and simple, but you need to make sure whether the pressure generated is sufficient.
Radial or centrifugal
The flow is sucked into the center of the device and enters the casing with blades. They are located so that a vacuum is created in the center, and thanks to centrifugal force, the air is thrown from the middle of the body to its edges and removed through the outlet pipe on the side wall.
Surface-mounted models of bathroom fans with a centrifugal principle operate more efficiently and quietly. They can pump volumes that axial models cannot handle.
You can also divide devices according to the level of completeness:
- Basic.
- Automatic (with sensors and timer).
Choosing a fan for organizing a ventilation system
The specifics of the room prompted designers to create devices adapted to high air humidity.
The fan runs on electricity, which means its housing must be completely sealed, and the structure must be reliably protected from damage by wet steam.
The International Electrotechnical Commission has developed reliability standards for electronic mechanisms.
It is designated by the letters IP and two numbers. The value of the first shows the level of protection from the penetration of foreign particles and objects (from 0 - an unprotected device, to 6 - even dust will not penetrate), and the second - moisture protection. The last indicator has 8 positions. Bath equipment should have a rating of 4 or higher (no need to try to find a device with a rating of 7 or 8 - such devices are designed to work underwater).
The ventilation device must come with a certificate indicating the safety level. It is recommended to take a device with IP-34 or more.
Power and performance
These indicators are interrelated: the higher the power, the greater the productivity. Also, the accompanying documents may indicate what length of the air duct the device is designed for.
You can find out what productivity is needed by multiplying the volume of the bathroom by a number from 5 to 10.
Where 5 is the minimum value that can be used if one person lives in the apartment. 10 – the bathtub is used often, since a large family lives in the house.
If the fan is equipped with various additional functions, its power should exceed the calculated one by 5-10%.
Typically, fans are economical devices, consuming only 7–20 W.
If you install a device with a large power reserve, this will cause a draft to be felt in the room, it will not have time to warm up, and the operating sound of these units will be louder.
Noise level
Of course, the fan blades create some sound when operating, but it is not as noticeable as, for example, kitchen hood. 30 dB and below is a completely acceptable indicator for these devices (the human ear perceives sound above 35 dB as intrusive).
Timer
Usually ventilation devices for bathrooms they are controlled mechanically (came - turned on, left - turned off), or operate in a continuous reduced mode.
The presence of a timer makes the fan semi-automatic.
It continues to function for some time after the owner has left the premises, after which it turns itself off.
Hygrostat
Bathroom hood with humidity sensor – very convenient option. A hygrometer or humidity sensor is the most preferred control method. A person sets a humidity threshold (usually from 40 to 100%). When this threshold is reached in the room, the fan will turn on automatically. Having both a hygrostat and a timer at the same time is common, but in practice, if there is a humidity sensor, it is preferred and the timer is simply not useful.
And in this topic everything is about the types and types of structures supply- exhaust system, as well as characteristics of ventilation equipment.
Diameter
It is necessary to take measurements from vent in the bathroom, or the diameter of the air duct if ventilation is being built in a private house. The seat size is usually 100 - 130 mm. The hole in the wall, of course, can be widened using a hammer drill, but why bother with this, it is better to choose the device in size.
Reverse
The reversible device periodically changes the direction of flow: either sucking out air or supplying it from the outside.
This unit was developed as inexpensive way organize supply and exhaust ventilation.
This can be done only under one condition - if the device exits into fresh street air, and not into the shaft of a high-rise building!
However, a reversible hood cannot be recommended for either toilets or bathtubs. IN living rooms wet or saturated air with not the most pleasant odors will penetrate.
Check valve
Its presence is especially important for city bathrooms connected to a common ventilation duct. This small device will prevent exhaust from other apartments from entering the house.
Appearance
Many manufacturers, such as Elicent and Electrolux, produce fans with replaceable external panel. They come in a wide variety of shades, which means that the device can fit into the interior so that it does not catch the eye.
You need to purchase a model with a removable panel not only for design reasons, but also because it is much easier to clean!
How to install a hood in the bathroom?
The device body can be completely located in the exhaust duct (the grille is flush with the wall), or it can be mounted on a wall or ceiling.
For fastening, you can use dowels, liquid nails or self-tapping screws, depending on the surface material.
For example, in order not to drill into finished tiles, liquid nails are used. Excess glue is cut off with a knife after drying.
The number of attachment points should be minimal.
To reduce the noise level, you can apply sealant in a circle on the wall, around the hole (thickness - about 3 mm, the main thing is that the fan does not touch the wall).
The channel hole can additionally be lined inside with soft rubber.
Electrical part
Power supply rules:
- There should be no exposed wires in the bathroom, even insulated ones. They need to be placed in recessed channels and “dressed” in a corrugated casing.
- Many people prefer to connect fans to the light switch via a contact pair. For ease of repair, you can make a separate hood switch.
- The switch should not be set to zero, but to phase.
- If the device has a timer, two wires go to power and one to ground.
Bathroom hood – cost
You can buy ventilation fan at prices of both 500 rubles and 7000 rubles.The difference between them will be in performance, power, size, and, of course, the presence of a thermostat and hygrometer.
Average good device can be purchased for 2 – 2.5 thousand rubles.
Installation of the device by a specialist will cost about 3,000 rubles (of course, a lot depends on the area and the specialist’s requests).
Conclusion
It turns out that such a complex problem of high humidity and obscene odors can be solved very simply. Installing a fan will not take much of your effort and money, but it will be an excellent assistant in the fight for a comfortable microclimate.
When cooking food, by-products are released into the air, which are undesirable to breathe. will solve this problem, while this option is cheaper than others and the unit is easier to install.
We will look at popular models of air dryers in this review. Ballu, Timberk and other manufacturers.
Video on the topic
The bathroom is a place with constantly high humidity, most often without windows. To prevent the formation of fungus and mold on the walls and damage to interior items, it is necessary high-quality ventilation, removing excess moisture outside the house.
Types of ventilation
Ventilation in the bathroom can be natural or forced. The advantages and disadvantages of these types of ventilation are discussed below.
Natural
In old Soviet houses and modern economy-class buildings, as a rule, it is used natural ventilation. The air flow in it occurs due to the temperature difference between the indoor and outdoor air. Additionally, an outlet deflector can be installed ventilation duct. The deflector increases draft in the ventilation system in windy weather due to the Bernoulli effect.
Such a system is cheap, easy to install, requires virtually no maintenance, and does not require electricity to operate. At the same time, it should be noted the disadvantages of natural ventilation - it does not work well in hot weather (there is no temperature difference) and, in addition, it is very sensitive to the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts.
Forced
Forced ventilation is carried out using fans or other mechanical devices. She is independent from weather conditions and maybe with correct selection fans, provide any necessary ventilation mode. The disadvantage of forced ventilation is that it requires electricity and therefore you need to lay wires to each fan.
It is advisable to install a forced ventilation system if the natural one cannot cope or if it is planned to install a steam generator or electric sauna.
To carry out simple diagnostics of the ventilation system, you will need a candle. Hold a burning candle near the vent. If there is a flow of air, the flame will deflect, indicating its direction. If ventilation does not work, the flame will remain vertical.
Often ventilation does not work well not because of clogged ducts, but because of insufficient fresh air flow. For example, this problem occurs in old houses when replacing wooden windows to plastic ones. To avoid this, choose windows with special ventilators.
How to choose the right new fan
Small axial fans for bathtubs and toilets with a capacity of 60-250 m 3 /hour are usually installed in bathrooms.
If the hood is installed in an existing ventilation duct, then make sure that its shape matches the shape and size of the duct. A properly selected hood must fit completely into the ventilation duct. On the outside, only a decorative grille remains, the shape and size of which can be matched to the interior of the bathroom.
Safety
The hood, like any electrical equipment for the bathroom, must have a moisture-proof housing that prevents water from getting on electrical parts. The standard designation of the degree of protection of a device is the IP code. The code consists of the letters IP and two numbers. The first number indicates the degree of protection against access by foreign objects, the second - the degree of moisture protection.
Performance
For a bathroom, 6-8 times the air turnover is required. P The performance of the selected hood should be no less than six times the volume of your bathroom.
For example: the size of your bathroom is 2x2x2.5 m, its volume is 10 m 3. You need a hood with a capacity of at least 60 m 3 /hour.
Noise level
IN small room In the bathroom the noise of the fan is clearly audible. Noise above 35 decibels can irritate the human psyche. Therefore, give preference to low-noise models.
The noise level of a fan depends on the shape of its blades and their rotation speed. If you have a choice, take a large diameter fan with a low rotation speed. With the same performance, it will make less noise than a small and fast one.
When installing, do not forget to treat all joints with silicone sealant to avoid vibrations and rattles during operation.
Functionality
Modern fan models are equipped with various additional devices that make their use more comfortable and economical:
- Non-return valve - prevents the flow of air from the ventilation ducts into the room even when fan not working. Necessary if the ventilation duct is common to several rooms.
- Humidity sensor - detects the presence of excess steam in the air and allows the fan to operate only when necessary.
- Motion sensor – turns on the hood and lighting when there are people in the room.
- Timer – allows the hood to work for some time after turning it off with the switch.
- A noise suppressor is a device installed in front of the fan and reduces the noise from it.
Hood for bathrooms and toilets
In private homes
In a private house, it is necessary to design ventilation at the construction stage, laying ventilation ducts and channels for electrical wiring in advance. If the volume of the bathroom is small and it is used by 1-2 people, then you can get by with natural ventilation. In other cases, it is necessary to install a hood.
When designing ventilation, remember:
- supply ducts should be at the bottom, exhaust ducts at the top of the room;
- It is best to install the hood on the wall opposite the door;
- inner surface air ducts should be as smooth as possible;
- ventilation ducts should be made as straight as possible or with smooth turns;
- For rooms located on different floors there must be separate air ducts.
In wooden houses
If you order the installation to a specialist, you will have to pay another 2-3 thousand rubles, depending on the complexity of the work.
Do-it-yourself installation - stages of work
To install the hood, it is necessary in advance (before finishing) lay channels in the walls for wiring. Do it in the bathroom open wiring it is forbidden.
The hood can be equipped with a separate switch or turned on simultaneously with the light. There are models that are activated by a humidity or motion sensor. Think over the connection diagram in advance and arrange the wiring in accordance with it.
When connecting the hood, remember that the switch should be set to phase, not zero. If you are not confident in your abilities, contact a professional electrician.
Installation of the hood itself is quite simple. IN apartment buildings it is usually inserted into an existing vent. Fastening to the wall is carried out with self-tapping screws. No additional work required.
If the hood is installed after laying the tiles, then in order not to drill the tiles, you can glue the hood using silicone sealant. To do this, you need to drop silicone in the corners of the hood (next to the holes for the screws) and insert it into Right place. If excess silicone has leaked out, you should cut it off with a sharp knife after it hardens.
A bathroom is a room in which, due to operating conditions, there is inevitably increased humidity. Constant air humidity leads to the formation of mold and mildew, and the air becomes musty. A bathroom hood, which promotes increased circulation of air masses, will help solve the problem.
Types of ventilation
The ventilation system can be forced or natural. The choice of a specific type of ventilation depends on the conditions in a particular room.
Natural ventilation
Ventilation systems with natural air circulation are usually provided at the building design stage. The house structure is equipped with special ventilation ducts leading to the attic level. Ventilation ducts are most often made of brick or plastic pipes.
A bathroom hood, created on the principles of natural ventilation, must meet certain standards:
- Air ducts should be placed vertically.
- Each air duct is intended for only one room. If we're talking about about adjacent rooms such as a kitchen, bathroom or toilet, a combined channel is allowed. In this case, all premises must be on the same floor.
- At the attic level, combining channels is allowed, however, if the rooms below are located in different sides at home, it is not recommended to do this.
- Since natural ventilation has a low pressure, inner part The air duct must be extremely smooth. The air duct should not have sharp turns. If the turn cannot be avoided, then it should be as smooth as possible, with a radius of at least 10 centimeters.
- If the house has one floor, the hood can be installed directly through the ceiling.
Forced ventilation
Installing a hood in a bathroom with forced air ventilation is used in the following cases:
- The bathroom does not have a natural circulation hood, or the power of the existing system is not enough.
- The natural ventilation system is faulty and its repair is hopeless.
- It is planned to install a steam generator or an electric sauna in the room.
Fan selection
When choosing a device, you should take into account a number of parameters, which will be discussed below.
Power
In addition to air ducts, a forced-air exhaust for a bathroom includes a fan. There are exhaust fans different types and forms, but the essence of these devices is always the same. Most often, axial models are used in bathrooms, which can move up to 250 cubic meters of air every hour. A standard fan is a device with a power of 7 to 20 W.
You can set the power of the device using a simple formula:
M = V * (5...10), where M is the required performance indicator, V is the cubic capacity of the room, and the numbers in brackets are a correction factor depending on the regularity of using the bathroom.
Below is an example of the calculation. The volume of the bathroom is 9 cubic meters. If the room is used twice a day, then a correction factor of 5 can be used. Thus, the required fan capacity will be 45 cubic meters.
For wet areas Fans with a higher protection class are produced. The marking of such devices includes two English letters - I and P, as well as numbers. The digital indicator displays the level of protection: the higher the indicator, the higher the protection class. For heavily humidified rooms (especially with wood trim) it is recommended to use modifications marked IP34 or higher.
Advice! Before installing a hood in the bathroom, you need to ensure that you have natural channels for air circulation, for example, cracks under doors. This required condition, without which full-time job ventilation system impossible.
Automation
Modern models of hoods are equipped with automation. We are talking, for example, about motion sensors that turn on the device only when a person enters the room.
Humidity sensors (hygrostats) are also used, which turn on the system only if the air becomes too humidified. A person sets a humidity threshold (usually from 40 to 100%). When this threshold is reached in the room, the fan will turn on automatically.
The hood can be produced with a timer. Their use allows you to use ventilation on a schedule. General task automatic devices - make the operation of the hood convenient for the user, as well as save energy without wasting it.
Noise level
Please note: there is no completely silent equipment (although in the name of hoods you can often find English word silent - silent). It is worth noting that modern ventilation operates quite quietly. Normal noise level is 30 decibels or less.
If you want to make the ventilation operation even quieter, you can purchase a special noise muffler. Finishing the ventilation shaft with soundproofing material is also popular.
Reversing device
Reversing allows you to change the direction of the air flow with a certain periodicity: first, the hood takes in air, and then, on the contrary, supplies it from the outside. However, in in this case there is a serious limitation, since only fresh air can be supplied inside from the street, but not from the attic or shaft. Therefore, such hoods are more often used in private homes.
Check valve
This special device, connected to a common ventilation duct. The purpose of the check valve is to prevent exhaust gases from entering the apartment from the external environment.
Installation of exhaust ventilation
How to make a hood in the bathroom will be discussed in this part of the article. This work is not too difficult. However, if you lack reading skills electrical diagrams and what is called “direct hands”, it is best to entrust the work to specialists.
The most common option for connecting a hood with your own hands is to create a system in which the fan will interact with an external toggle switch. The latter usually plays a regulatory role when choosing speeds. The essence of the switch is not to use the hood unnecessarily, but to turn it on when needed. You can use a cord as a switch, which in the future you just need to pull to turn on or switch the speed mode of the system.
Another method of organizing the hood is used, which differs in the way it is turned on. Here the device starts using a standard two-key switch. In this case, one of the keys turns on or off the light in the bathroom, and the second is designed to control the hood.
Below are the basic principles by which a hood is installed in a bathroom:
Exhaust from the bathroom through the toilet
The hood for the bathroom and toilet is installed in the following order:
- We make a hole in the wall between the bathroom and the toilet for ventilation. The dimensions of the hole should be slightly larger than the hood itself (approximately 1-2 centimeters).
- Remove the cover from the fan.
- Apply glue to the back surface of the device.
- Press the back side of the fan against the wall with force for a minute.
- Install the grate on the hood.
Advantages of combined ventilation for the entire entrance
Electric household hood not always for the bathroom best option. Sometimes a system in which many apartments are combined into a single ventilation system looks much more preferable.
A general access ventilation system solves, first of all, the problem of noise from fans. In addition, such a hood will cost much less. There are other advantages of general access ventilation:
- There is no need to dismantle finishing materials in the apartment.
- There is no need for a check valve.
- All work can be entrusted to specialists.
- The system does not need to be constantly monitored (if necessary, emergency automation can be installed).
- Breakdowns in common system are not as burdensome as if we were talking about a hood for one apartment.
A relative disadvantage of an integrated system is the interdependence between neighbors. For example, if for some reason the fan in the apartment stops working, air from the neighbors will be pumped into this room.
This situation can be prevented by using a check valve. However, while the fan is being repaired, moisture will accumulate in the room, so it is more correct to provide attic duplicated duct ventilation system. If one of asynchronous motors breaks, the other will not stop functioning.
So, there is no alternative to the ventilation system, since otherwise Decoration Materials in the bathroom will quickly become unusable, and the air in the room will always be humid and stale. Most often, forced exhaust is most in demand. It is recommended not to skimp on automatically controlled hoods, since the use of such systems is as comfortable and economical as possible.
For bathroom renovations, specially designed and produced Construction Materials with a high degree of protection from moisture, since the humid, warm microclimate of this room with insufficient air circulation is destructive for most coatings.
After performing hygiene procedures or washing, the air is saturated big amount hot steam that cools and then condenses on the surfaces of furniture, walls, ceilings and floors. A bathroom hood solves this problem by preserving the finish due to the convection effect. Do-it-yourself installation of this inexpensive equipment increases the service life of materials without requiring large investments. This article will tell you how to calculate and choose a hood for a bath.
Natural bathroom hood is a system for ensuring air circulation in a sanitary room without installing electrical equipment. It works due to the properties of gases when heated to rise, called the law of convection. Such an exhaust to the bathroom is planned at the stage of creating a room or house project, since it requires the installation of air ducts leading to the attic or roof.
When creating a design for bathroom and toilet hoods, follow the following rules:
- Air ducts must have a strictly vertical orientation, and each ventilated room has its own shaft.
- Air ducts can be connected into one common exhaust duct for the bathroom and toilet, kitchen and sauna rooms, but only if they are located on the same floor.
- The exhaust to the bath, kitchen, sauna and toilet are combined on the floor by one common channel if these rooms are located in the same part of the house. If there is a significant distance between the ventilated rooms, it is easier to make separate air ducts.
- A natural bathroom hood has a low draft force, so the air ducts need to be made of a material with a smooth surface.
- When laying the air duct with your own hands, it is better to avoid sharp turns, protrusions and bends, so as not to impede the circulation of air masses.
- If when laying an air duct in a sanitary room it is impossible to avoid bends, you need to make the duct turn smoothly with a radius of at least 100 mm.
- Inside one-story buildings, the hood for the bath is routed through the ceiling into the attic, and then onto the roof.
Natural exhaust for toilets and bathrooms works according to the law of convection. More warm air, saturated with water vapor, rises to the ceiling of the sanitary room, enters the air duct, and then is drawn out into the street due to the difference in external and internal temperatures. The tension that is created during the circulation of air masses is called traction force. To check if it works exhaust ventilation, with your own hands, you need to bring a match to the grate: if the flame deviates towards the channel, then everything is in order.
Forced ventilation
The operating principle of forced exhaust into the bath differs from natural ventilation. Air circulation in a room equipped with such a system occurs through a fan, which is powered by an electrical network.
Forced exhaust in the bathtub is installed if natural ventilation does not function or the draft force in it is not enough to make the room comfortable for use. To do this, a fan is installed at the entrance to the air duct, which creates a zone with low pressure, drawing air inside the duct. To calculate the required fan power, you need to multiply:
- Room volume. To calculate the volume of the bathroom, you need to multiply the length, width and height of the room. For example, the volume of a bathroom with dimensions 3x2x2.2 is equal to 13.2 cubic meters.
- Frequency of use factor. This indicator can range from 5 to 10, based on the number of people living. If 1 person lives in an apartment, he uses the sanitary room 2 times a day, which means the coefficient takes a minimum value of 5. With an increase in the number of visits to the bathroom, the coefficient increases.
Note! There is high humidity inside the bathroom, so use electrical appliance may be unsafe. Therefore, forced exhaust in the bathtub is mounted using moisture-resistant fans. Equipment with the highest protection against moisture penetration is marked with code IP 34.
Equipment used
Forced exhaust for the bathroom is organized through the use of special ventilation equipment. For this task, professional craftsmen recommend using household fans that remove 60-250 cubic meters of air per hour. These devices can be easily installed with your own hands if they are properly connected to the electrical network. To find out which models are suitable for specific conditions, you need to calculate the volume of the room and the frequency of use of the bath.
Household fans are equipped with the following additional functions for ease of use:
- Humidity sensor. This determines how much water vapor the air contains, and when a critical threshold is overcome, it automatically turns on. This feature allows you to optimize fan operation, reducing energy costs.
- Timer. If the fan has a timer, the forced exhaust will work strictly according to the clock. Operating hours can be set to periods when the room is actively used.
- Motion Sensor. The bath hood with a motion sensor turns on automatically when someone enters the room.
- Check valve. An exhaust hood with a check valve prevents the penetration of atmospheric air, dust and foreign odors from the street into the living space, which is incredibly convenient for city houses built on busy streets.
Manufacturers advertising household fans claim that they operate absolutely silently. However, in reality, during operation, the bath hood produces a slight noise, which, when correct installation will be practically invisible.
As a rule, forced exhaust in the bathtub is installed by hired professional craftsmen, since it requires connection to the electrical network. However, if you have experience and the necessary tools, you can do the job yourself.
Installation is carried out in the following sequence:
Important! Forced exhaust into the bathtub must have its own switch. Some craftsmen connect it to a switch, which is responsible for lighting, but this is irrational, especially if the device is equipped with automation.
Video instruction
Regular temperature changes and the use of water in the bathroom make it the wettest room in the apartment. Evaporation from hot water settles on horizontal and vertical surfaces in the form of condensation, creating a steam room when taking a shower or bath.
As a result of increased humidity, pockets of mold form on walls, ceilings and corners. To prevent the development of fungus, the ventilation system is modernized. One way to create a comfortable microclimate is to install equipment such as an extractor hood in the bathroom.
It would seem that stagnation should not exist in a combined bathroom or bathroom, since any living space is equipped with ventilation natural type. Moreover, a properly planned ventilation system is one of the conditions for comfortable water procedures.
If we are talking about apartment buildings, then the scheme includes through ventilation shafts that end in the attic or technical floor and have exits in all bathrooms and kitchens without exception. Moreover, modern norms and rules recommend separate ventilation ducts for each apartment individually.
Previously, for channel equipment they used brickwork, now it's concrete wells or PVC pipes.
The diagram of the apartment ventilation device shows the lines and exit points of the ventilation holes. The circulation is designed in such a way that air enters some rooms and is removed from others.
Natural ventilation involves spontaneous circulation of air, which exits through openings in the walls or ceiling into a shaft located in the wall ceilings.
Scheme of the structure of a private ventilation system one-story house may differ slightly: most often the shaft begins with a hole in the ceiling and ends with an exit to the roof.
When designing and installing ventilation, the following rules are followed:
- each room has a separate air duct located vertically;
- when building channels, you should choose a material that guarantees the unhindered passage of air, that is, with smooth internal walls;
- it is allowed to combine several air ducts into one in the attic area;
- if the toilet and bathroom are located in the same apartment, natural ventilation devices can be connected.
The standard scheme for the movement of air masses in a city apartment: fresh air enters through the windows of the rooms, “used” air exits through the ventilation holes in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet
If natural draft does not justify itself, and circulation is not enough to maintain fresh air, forced ventilation is installed - a device that forces air masses to move from the premises to the shaft.
Sometimes the design of the compulsory system is regulated sanitary standards and rules (SNiP). For example, if the house has a sauna with an electric stove or steam generator. In this case, we recommend that you contact a certified organization for special calculations of the required fan capacities and pipe diameters. Information can always be found on the websites of your city.
When is a hood installed?
Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to independently determine the condition and efficiency of the ventilation system. The test does not require any special skills or special tools. There are “markers” that make it easy to recognize the failure of natural circulation:
- fogging of mirrors and glass surfaces during water procedures;
- a damp background that does not disappear over time (towels dry slowly);
- the appearance of black dots on the tile seams, in the corners of the ceiling and along the perimeter of the bathtub is the beginning of the development of fungal lesions.
The appearance of mold and mildew is accompanied by unpleasant smell, gradual destruction decorative finishing walls, however, there is a more serious danger - a negative impact on the health of the apartment owners.
The consequence of insufficient ventilation is the appearance of mold on the grout in the tile joints. If you do not establish air circulation in time and do not get rid of small pockets, the fungus will cover all concrete, plastic, plastered, and wooden surfaces
The ventilation may be faulty. Checking in a simple way- using a lit match. If the flame quickly goes out or leans towards the hood, then the reason lies elsewhere, but if it remains motionless, then it is necessary to clean the shaft and install forced ventilation.
The most popular device that provides maximum air circulation is a fan.
Traditional testing of air movement is not always effective; to accurately determine whether there is a sufficient level of circulation, you should invite a qualified specialist with an anemometer
Do-it-yourself hood in the bathroom
For self-installation The most suitable fan is inserted into a technical frame and equipped with a hydrostat (humidity sensor). The cost of the device depends on the power, volume of pumped air and the availability of additional functions.
For example, the simplest electric model with a power of 40 W costs about 3,000 rubles, and a silent German device with a touch sensor and a reverse protection valve costs 12,000 rubles.
One of the simplest options is an inexpensive centrifugal fan with round without additional equipment, installed in the center of the ventilation opening
Preparatory work and installation requirements
Before starting installation work electrical device it is necessary to check whether the ventilation shaft is functioning. A passage that is too narrow, clogged with grease and dust, requires cleaning. The homeowner can clean the channel leading from the apartment to the central riser on his own.
To do this, you need to carefully remove the grille, remove a layer of dust from it, and rinse detergents and dry. The channel walls covered with dirt can be treated with a scraper or a stiff brush, then thoroughly vacuumed and wiped with a damp cloth.
It will be possible to clean a small section of the ventilation duct, but even preventative work will improve draft.
The small diameter of the hole makes the ventilation duct difficult to access and does not allow for proper cleaning of its walls. Use available materials - hard brushes with handles, pipe cleaners
It will not be possible to clean the central highway yourself, since access to common buildings engineering systems Open to special services only. It might make sense to consult with your neighbors and leave a group request so that they can make professional cleaning main shaft along the entire length of the riser.
Having provided a path for air to exit the room, you should also take care of the supply ventilation. To do this, it is necessary to create a gap through which replacement air would enter the bath. The greater the distance from the inlet to the hood, the more efficient the ventilation will be.
Sometimes it is enough to make a small, 1.5-2 cm wide gap between the door and the threshold, but if there is not enough traction, in the lower part door leaf a grill should be installed.
In the diagram, red arrows indicate the movement of the supply ventilation. It must have access to the bath, toilet and kitchen, otherwise the circulation will be disrupted and installing a fan will be useless
The last point is the choice of a ventilation device model with suitable characteristics: correctly selected power, noise level, functional indicators. The device must be safe for others and easy to maintain. Preference is usually given modern models with timer and humidity sensor.
The hydrostat (humidity sensor) responds to high humidity and turns on the device in automatic mode.
Be prepared for the fact that installing an electric hood requires additional construction work, including making a hole in the wall or ceiling, laying cables and subsequent finishing.
Methods of connecting to power supply
The feasibility of one or another connection method depends on the location of the hood, the interior design features and the technical capabilities of the device itself.
Here are the most common options:
- switching on via button or cord;
- simultaneous connection with lighting devices;
- automatic switching on based on humidity level;
- control of a separate switch key.
It is most convenient to use a fan with automatic control: no force is required: it turns on automatically when the humidity level increases. It can be installed in a wall, in a corner or on the ceiling - in any inaccessible place, because there is no need for daily maintenance.
To install the wiring, a wall is tapped or a box is mounted.
The only disadvantage of such models is the high price.
The most common way to disguise wires is to lay the wires under a layer of ceramic tiles. There is another option - eyeliner in the under-ceiling space, if mounted plastic panels or drywall
Inexpensive models are usually equipped with a power button or a short cord, which must be pulled if necessary. Problems arise if the exhaust vent is located above the toilet, bathtub or high on the ceiling - this complicates access to the device. If a fan of this type is installed during the repair process, the cord is replaced with a switch, which is located within an accessible area, and the lead is inserted into the wall.
Combining the simultaneous activation of a lamp and a fan is convenient, but not always rational: one press activates two devices. The fact is that the air does not always have time to ventilate by the time you leave the bathroom, and leaving the light on for the sake of the fan is uneconomical.
Now there are models with delayed fan shutdown. Typically this is ten minutes by default. Some devices have a minute scale and a lever for self-adjustment. Sometimes there is equipment with a low-power light source - a “night light”, which burns all the time the fan is running.
A common simple solution is two-gang switch– the lighting can be turned off and the fan left in working condition, and vice versa.
Diagram of connecting a fan to a lighting source in a bathroom. The switch, as usual, is brought out into the corridor, and is additionally installed inside the room junction box with clamps
If ceramic tiles have not yet been laid, it is best to hide the wiring under it. In a completely finished room, you will have to use plastic masking boxes. They will look out of place against the background of designer tiles, but their main function– ensuring safety – will be fulfilled.
How to properly prepare the installation site?
The ideal location for installing the hood is a ventilation hole to ensure natural air circulation, leading to a common riser. It is present in all bathrooms and bathrooms and is usually located in the upper part of the main wall, under the ceiling.
The hole dimensions allow (with normal functioning systems) flow 100 m³/h, which is optimal for small bathrooms or combined bathrooms in brick and panel houses typical building.
Before purchasing a ventilation device, be sure to measure the diameter of the outlet opening, otherwise during installation you will have to further expand or narrow the finished opening
The fan is selected taking into account the size of the outlet. Standard diameter parameters are 10 cm, 12.5 cm, 15 cm, respectively, the fan dimensions should be similar. If you purchased a powerful hood whose dimensions are larger than the hole, then it can be expanded using a hammer drill.
Often the area of bathrooms in private houses and apartments with an improved layout exceeds 10 m², and one ventilation hole becomes not enough. You can equip an additional channel, but you cannot make changes to the engineering layout of the premises yourself; you must contact specialists.
Fan installation
For self-installation basic skills in using construction tools and detailed diagram-instructions, which usually comes with the device. Manufacturers who value their reputation describe the installation process in an accessible form and on different languages, accompanying the instructions with clear pictures and diagrams.
The absence of a manual means that the company most likely will not provide guarantees and will not be held responsible for the breakdown of the device.
Bathroom fans are made of lightweight material, have compact dimensions and a high level of protection against moisture ingress
So, having cleaned the ventilation duct, stretched the electrical wires and prepared the hole for installation, we proceed in the following order:
- remove the top decorative grille from the device;
- we check the compliance of the dimensions of the duct and the fan;
- fix the device in the hole (or pipe, if it is necessary to narrow the opening) using sealant, polymer glue, liquid nails or self-tapping screws;
- seal the joints and remaining gaps;
- return the grille to its place;
- connect the device to a power source;
- testing.
The installation process takes no more than 20 minutes, so we advise you not to rush and carry out all manipulations carefully. If there was a thin mosquito net between the grille and the mechanism, do not forget to put it back. It protects the room from small insects that sometimes enter the bathroom through the ventilation shaft.
We invite you to watch the video instructions for installing the fan yourself:
Before making a hood in a bathroom or bathroom, you need to select a fan with the required characteristics. A device with insufficient functionality will not be able to provide a comfortable atmosphere in the room, so you should carefully study all the characteristics of the model you like.
The table of air exchange rates presents the parameters that are optimal for various residential and utility rooms. Maximum values – in rooms with high level humidity
Pay attention to power. The minimum indicator is 60 m³/h, the maximum is 250 m³/h; installation of devices with a capacity of less than 100 m³/h is not recommended. The humidity protection class is also important; it is usually marked with the letters IP and for particularly wet rooms, for example, bathrooms, it has values of IP 34 and higher.
The main protection is the sealed case, so carefully inspect the device at the time of purchase.
If you love comfort and modern technical improvements, pay attention to models with motion sensors, which turn on the mechanism only in the presence of moving objects.
However, a more useful humidity sensor is a hydrostat. With its presence, there is no need to control ventilation completely, since it reacts sensitively to increased humidity and independently controls the process of air circulation.
The power of the bathroom exhaust fan Marley SV-100 is only 1 Watt during constant operation. Touch settings make adjustments easy, and automation makes maintenance easy
The timer is useful for those who like everything in order and are accustomed to independently regulating the operation of electrical appliances. You can set the time most convenient for ventilation, and the device will function when you take a shower or, on the contrary, have finished water procedures.
Another important addition for apartment buildings – check valve. It serves as a barrier to the movement of air from other rooms (kitchen, neighboring apartments). And the last thing that should interest you is the noise level emitted by the device during operation. The maximum comfortable limit is 25 dB.
Tips for choosing a bathroom fan in the following video:
If you are used to making repairs yourself own apartment, understanding the fan structure and its installation is not difficult.
However, we recommend entrusting the construction of a new ventilation duct or cleaning of the central pipeline to specialists.
