How to make formwork for a strip base yourself - step-by-step video instructions. How to make formwork for a foundation from boards with your own hands? Do-it-yourself high formwork for the foundation

Formwork is a kind of form for a cement-sand mixture, which allows you to form the correct geometry of the walls. Builders use both removable/temporary and permanent/permanent formwork for the foundation. The second option allows you to save effort and time on dismantling work, as well as insulate and/or strengthen the walls, so it is increasingly used not only in industrial, but also in private construction.

Basic requirements for permanent formwork for foundations

Let's consider what properties permanent formwork should have.

Moisture-proof material and tight seams. In the absence of this characteristic, the formwork will allow concrete to pass through, which will lead to excessive consumption of the mixture and make it impossible to construct the wall.
Structural strength. This is necessary for the formwork to withstand pressure. concrete mixture from the inside and the ground outside (at the foundation level) without deformation or cracking.
Correct element geometry. It would be impossible to build with blocks of different thicknesses or with irregular angles. smooth walls and 90-degree joints between them.
Long period of operation. The longer the formwork can potentially last, the higher the likelihood of a long life for the entire house. If the formwork collapses quickly, the unsupported walls may not be able to withstand structural loads. In cases where the formwork does not have load-bearing properties, its destruction will lead to deterioration in appearance due to delamination decorative finishing facade.

Fixed formwork is an important element of an energy-efficient house

Table: advantages and disadvantages of permanent formwork

Advantages	Minuses
Ease of construction, the final result depends less on the skill of the workers (compared to homemade removable formwork).	In houses with permanent formwork it is often observed high humidity, which forces you to equip a powerful ventilation system.
Good heat and sound insulation (compared to buildings made of brick and reinforced concrete slabs).	The impossibility of construction in the cold season, since a large mass of concrete hardens poorly at low temperatures.
Ease of finishing work due to the flat surface of the formwork without cracks and differences in wall thickness.	The need to additionally moisten the concrete during hot periods to prevent cracking of the walls.
Reduced construction period compared to houses made of brick, stone, and gas blocks.	Buildings with metal reinforcement frames must be grounded as quickly as possible to avoid exposing people to the risk of lightning strikes.
The durability of buildings with reinforced concrete formwork is 300 years or more.	Difficulty in dismantling during alterations and reconstruction, especially if fill reinforcement with metal rods was used.
The technology is suitable for the construction of buildings of any size and number of floors, from summer houses to shopping complexes.	In case of fire, the formwork material can release harmful substances.
Minimization of construction waste (compared to construction technology with removable formwork).	If the external treatment of polystyrene foam blocks is insufficient or incorrect, water, insects, and small rodents may enter the walls.

Fixed metal formwork

To ensure uniform wall thickness, sheets of metal formwork are connected with metal studs

Metal formwork is one of the most expensive, therefore it is used mainly in industrial construction. It is made from sheets of aluminum or steel 1–2 mm thick on a metal frame and connected with anchors, plates or locks. The type and number of fasteners are calculated in such a way that when concrete is poured and hardened, the sheets do not bend either inward or outward.

When the formwork is made to order for a specific building, the manufacturer’s craftsmen themselves carry out a test assembly of the structure and only after confirming the suitability and completeness of all parts, the order is sent to the buyer.

Metal formwork has the most accurate geometry. The permissible deviation in the parallelism of the sheet edges is no more than 2 mm over 1 m of product length.

To prevent premature oxidation and destruction of metal due to contact with concrete and groundwater, in production, sheets of future formwork are carefully coated with paint and lubricant. Often galvanized steel is also used, or a powder coating method is used, which forms a dense polymer film on the sheet. But if welding is used during installation (welding sheets to a frame or reinforcement to sheets), a protective composition (lubricant, mastic, paint) will need to be reapplied to areas damaged by temperature.

Powder coating of metal sheets is one of the most effective methods their protection against corrosion

Metal is well suited for buildings with complex geometries, since thin sheets are easy to bend under any the right angle, make a rounding or arch. Finished walls They turn out very neat and smooth; if desired, they can be left without decorative finishing. Architects recommend using metal formwork in areas with complex loose soils.

To prevent concrete from leaking, the joints of metal formwork are connected especially carefully.

But experts also note some disadvantages of metal formwork:

significant weight steel sheets, which requires the use of special equipment;
the need for additional thermal insulation of walls and foundations;
The grease on the sheets wears off easily and stains workers.

Installation aluminum sheets for wall formwork, a couple of workers can do it

Aluminum sheets with the addition of silicon, which weigh much less than steel sheets and do not require protection from the external environment, will help minimize labor costs for transportation and installation of metal formwork.

Permanent formwork made of reinforced concrete blocks

Reinforced concrete formwork blocks are recommended for large construction projects, at least a three-story private house. Since they have increased strength characteristics, in smaller buildings such a safety margin will be unnecessary. Thin-walled blocks are excellent for arranging the foundation of a permanent fence.

Reinforced concrete formwork blocks are installed offset

Reinforced concrete formwork blocks have the following advantages:

allow you to save cement-sand mortar due to the significant wall thickness;
suitable for the construction of basements of any depth, as well as interfloor ceilings;
mounted with a minimum joint width;
provide a building service life of several hundred years.

The best formwork is made from reinforced concrete blocks with indicators F75 (frost resistance), W4 (water permeability), 6% (water absorption), 350 kg/cm 2 (mechanical strength).

An example of the arrangement of reinforcement in formwork made of reinforced concrete blocks designed for two rods

The disadvantages of reinforced concrete blocks include:

heavy weight (a 510x400x235 mm block weighs 30 kg), due to which it can only be transported by trucks and installed only by workers with a crane;
high price - about 500 rubles per unit.

Expanded clay concrete blocks do not have such disadvantages. Providing high strength of the walls, these analogues of reinforced concrete blocks do not require insulation of the house, since they already contain insulation - expanded clay.

Fixed plywood formwork

For formwork, moisture-resistant plywood is most often used, but even then, this material is usually used to create a temporary form. After all, the service life and weather resistance of laminated plywood sheet an order of magnitude lower than the same parameters of a concrete wall.

Permanent plywood formwork is acceptable in the following cases:

when making a temporary structure (for example, small house, in which the owner lives during the construction of the main house);
during the construction of non-residential buildings (chicken coop, barn, wood storage);
when it is necessary to save as much as possible on construction;
if the walls and foundation are insulated along the outer contour and the plywood is completely protected from external influences.

In addition to questionable durability and strength, plywood formwork will require a lot of labor and careful handling. Since the sheets do not have a tongue-and-groove system and special joints, you will have to assemble the structure using self-tapping screws, additionally seal each joint and make an external sheathing with supports (so that the plywood does not bend). In addition, non-waterproof plywood swells and flakes from water, while laminated plywood repels the concrete mixture and never forms a monolithic wall with it, so it is very important to find a waterproof material with good adhesion.

Technoblock - an example of the successful use of plywood in formwork

Designation in the picture:

1 - decorative facing layer;
2 - layer of insulation;
3 - plastic supports for reinforcement;
4 - concrete pouring (a cavity is provided for it in the block);
5 - plywood sheet.

As a result, despite the cheapness and environmental friendliness of plywood, experts recommend using it only for temporary formwork. For permanent applications, it is better to use a technoblock - a composite product with an inner plywood layer.

Fixed wood concrete formwork

Arbolite is a relatively new, but time-tested material. Formwork blocks from concrete and wood chips began to be made recently, but this mixture was used for floor insulation back in Soviet times. Arbolite blocks are much cheaper and lighter than reinforced concrete, so they are actively used in individual low-rise construction.

Some models of wood concrete blocks have a layer of insulation - stone wool or polyurethane foam

Compared to other types of permanent formwork, wood concrete blocks:

are easily cut with woodworking tools, allowing for on-site adjustment to required parameters: cut corners, make arched curves, cut out fragments for better adhesion of walls at the corners of the building, reduce height/length;
can be installed quickly and without special equipment (1 m2 of wall is only 8 blocks);
provide high strength, sound absorption and thermal insulation with a smaller wall thickness (compared to brick and expanded polystyrene);
safe for the health of others, waste can be industrially recycled;
strong enough for fastening clamps for drainpipes and loaded elements of façade systems (guides for hanging siding, etc.);
are not afraid of fires (withstands up to 90 minutes of open fire);
frost-resistant, suitable for regions with harsh climates.

The disadvantage of wood concrete is its water permeability, so it is recommended to use it for the construction of walls on a ready-made waterproofed strip or slab foundation. The use of wood concrete for arranging the foundation is undesirable, since it will need to be very carefully protected from moisture.

An example of arranging formwork made of wood concrete and brick

Arbolite is produced in the form of hollow blocks and panels. In the second case, the panel serves only as the inner contour of the wall, and the outer one must be made of brick. The cavity between the materials is filled with concrete and reinforced, as when using other types of formwork. This option is more difficult to install, but the finished house is warm (arbolite), beautiful (brick) and durable (fusion of strength characteristics of three materials).

When purchasing wood concrete blocks and slabs, pay attention to the eco-label, as some manufacturers use binders that are harmful to health (phenol, naphthalene). Be careful, plasticizer toxins can be released from the material even at room temperature.

Manufacturers of wood concrete blocks for formwork offer options for both high-rise buildings and small buildings. Be sure to consult with a consultant so as not to spend extra money on concrete for pouring thin-walled blocks or not to mistakenly take blocks with too small voids.

Fixed formwork made of CBPB

CSP (cement particle board) or sawdust concrete is another variation of a mixture of cement and crushed wood. It differs from wood concrete in the type of binder component and the addition of sand. Therefore, DSP is a denser, stronger and heavier material, and its thermal insulation is worse than that of wood concrete.

Cement particle boards can serve finishing material when covered with decorative mineral chips

Among the advantages of wood concrete formwork:

the material breathes, so there is no need to equip the house forced ventilation and combat the greenhouse effect in other ways;
DSP is able to withstand fires, its fire resistance is confirmed by laboratory tests;
the stove consists of natural materials, so it does not harm nature and health;
gives the house high strength: with a thickness of 25 cm, the wall can withstand three times greater loads than a brick wall of the same thickness;
DSP is resistant to sudden temperature changes, therefore suitable for regions with a sharply continental climate;
the material is sufficiently stable and geometrically stable so that the distance between the floors can be 2.8–3 m;
it is possible to build houses using cement particle boards even in winter, as long as the temperature does not drop below -20 o C;
DSP requires minimal finishing; inside the house it can be painted or wallpapered without putty.

An example of creating reinforced formwork for a foundation made of cement bonded particle boards

European builders have been using permanent DSP formwork for more than 25 years, so there are many houses that confirm the durability and reliability of this material. Cement bonded particle boards are well suited for both individual and multi-storey buildings even in the harsh northern climate.

Fixed formwork made of corrugated sheets

Profiled sheets, corrugated sheets or corrugated sheets have also found their use as permanent formwork, although much more often they are used for the manufacture of fences, roofs, and outbuildings. Important: profiled sheeting is only suitable for arranging composite slabs of interfloor floors and for large spans (from 5 m) it requires additional temporary supports. This material is not used for the construction of walls due to its small thickness, which reduces its resistance to mechanical loads in a vertical position.

An example of a floor design with a base made of profiled sheets

Builders are attracted to formwork made from this material with the following features:

the metal is completely protected by galvanization and/or a polymer layer, so it does not rust;
V industrial buildings the material can be left without decorative finishing, the ceiling is visually pleasing and practical;
The corrugated sheet not only serves as a form for concrete, but also serves as sheet reinforcement;
corrugated sheet transfers the load to metal carcass buildings, so the internal walls do not bear heavy loads and it becomes possible to save money by constructing them from lightweight materials (aerated concrete, sandwich panels);
sheets of small thickness are simply cut with metal scissors; formwork of any shape can be created from them.

To ensure good adhesion to concrete, choose special corrugated sheets with teeth for the formwork.

This is what it looks like interfloor covering based on corrugated sheeting from inside the building

Permanent formwork made from corrugated sheets is used primarily in industrial construction, as it requires the construction of a metal building frame and metal floor beams. It is not suitable for an individual home, as it will be unreasonably expensive.

Fixed polystyrene foam formwork

Expanded polystyrene/foam is the most popular material for permanent formwork. Its demand is explained by factors such as:

light weight, making it easy to transport;
tongue-and-groove connection system for the simplest possible installation;
speed of installation (foam blocks of permanent formwork are larger than concrete ones, so work progresses faster);
variety of types (reinforced, with protective impregnations);
thermal insulation properties, thanks to which the house does not require additional insulation;
soundproofing;
biological inertness, preventing the development of mold, moss, etc.

Examples of polyurethane foam formwork blocks of different configurations

Opponents of polystyrene foam formwork point to its danger in case of fire and low degree of environmental friendliness. Even if you buy materials labeled eco, this does not guarantee that the formwork will not harm your health or the environment.

It is also important to keep in mind that foam formwork will become good choice for buildings of simple shape, since the range of corner and rounded blocks does not yet allow satisfying all consumer requests.

Fixed formwork made of glass-magnesite

Glass-magnesite sheets or FMS have been used as permanent formwork since the mid-20th century for the purpose of constructing thermally insulated houses. The material consists of a mixture of magnesium oxide and chloride, perlite, sawdust, fiberglass and polypropylene fabric. Not all components of glass magnesite are natural, but ready-made composition completely safe for people.

Different options for glass-magnesite sheets with decorative finishing

SML is an excellent option for building or reconstructing a house with a weak foundation. Since the sheets themselves and the light concrete mixtures used for pouring weigh much less bricks, reinforced concrete blocks and other traditional materials, they do not load the structure of the building so much.

Among the advantages of glass magnesite:

multifunctionality: it is suitable for creating foundations, walls, ceilings, fences, etc.;
high thermal insulation, which is associated not only with the properties of the formwork itself, but also with the advantages of the filler (fiber foam concrete grade D250-D320, concrete with polystyrene foam balls M300);
fire resistance;
complete moisture resistance, which makes the material suitable for the construction of baths and saunas, use in areas with a humid climate and in wetlands;
the small thickness of walls with SML formwork will save space inside the house;
the rough surface of the sheets can be easily covered with clinker tiles, decorative plaster or any other finishing material;
the sheet can be slightly curved if necessary for the construction of a half-turret or other home decoration (radius of curvature - 3 m).

If you plan to cut LSU boards on site, purchase spare jigsaw blades. This material wears out nail files several times faster than wood concrete and plywood.

Glass-magnesite sheets will be suitable for use at all stages of house construction

Glass-magnesite sheets, like arbolite sheets, often form only inner circuit formwork, the outer one is most often built from decorative brick. As a result external finishing turns out to be unnecessary, and a thin layer of putty will be enough inside. The technology is suitable for the construction of houses up to 5 floors on a ready-made strip/slab foundation. In addition, it requires more time and effort than using polystyrene foam or DSP formwork (excluding decorative finishing).

Glass-magnesite sheets are currently produced only in China and Korea, and LSU quality control is also carried out there. There are no domestic analogues for this material.

Instructions for installing permanent formwork from prefabricated blocks

We will consider the technology of constructing a foundation from ready-made hollow blocks using the example of lightweight concrete products. Unlike reinforced concrete blocks for high-rise buildings, these “bricks” can be installed by hand without a crane or manipulator.

Prepare a cushion for the block foundation by filling and compacting layers of sand and small crushed stone. A thin screed should be poured over the cushion to simplify further laying of the blocks, and also to avoid concrete leakage when pouring the foundation.
The sand and gravel bed must be shed before installation. thin layer concrete
Stretch a thread along the trench and place the first layer of blocks on the cushion, being careful not to deviate from this guide. It must be mounted so that the gap between the elements is minimal. If the gap increases significantly along the trench, the reason may lie in the unevenness of the cushion. In this case, the row needs to be disassembled and a more even base made.
Thanks to correct geometry blocks, the foundation strip turns out smooth and clear
Connections between walls should be provided with special blocks of slightly longer length. If there are none, a recess should be made in the universal blocks, as in the picture. This will ensure reliable adhesion of the perpendicular foundation strips.
At the junctions of internal and external walls you need to put special corner blocks
Place metal or fiberglass reinforcement. For low-rise construction, two parallel rods are sufficient, but if necessary, three can be arranged.
The blocks have special grooves for reinforcing rods
At the junction of the walls, the rods must overlap so that the length of the free end is at least 2 cm.
Pay attention to the location of the upper and lower rods in relation to each other, they should form a regular square
When the length of the rod is not enough, it can be increased by tying a new rod with a special thin wire. It is advisable to make 2-3 dressings in different areas of the overlap.
The reinforcement should be tied with an overlap of 15–20 cm
Place the second row of concrete blocks exactly on top of the first. Do not allow even small deviations; if necessary, adjust the position of the block with a mallet.
Install the second row of hollow blocks on top of the first
Fill the prepared formwork with liquid cement-sand mortar so that the concrete level does not reach the grooves for the reinforcement.
The concrete level should be slightly higher than the middle of the top row of blocks
Before the concrete begins to dry, try to expel excess air by piercing the space inside the formwork with a reinforcing rod in a downward motion. After this, place the reinforcement vertically, especially carefully strengthening the external corners and wall joints.
Vertical reinforcing bars can be installed individually at a distance of 1.5 m from each other
After the concrete has dried, begin building the foundation. Install and tie the reinforcement, install two new rows of blocks and fill the formwork with concrete. Continue this until the foundation reaches the height you want.
New reinforcement is installed on top of the concrete screed
The last row of foundation blocks is poured until a smooth horizontal surface is formed. While the concrete is still wet, it can be leveled small board or a long plaster trowel.
The foundation is ready for the construction of the walls of the future house

A foundation made of concrete hollow blocks for a private house using the described technology is installed by two workers in 2–3 days, taking into account the time for the first layers of concrete to set.

Comparison of costs for creating a foundation from full and hollow reinforced concrete blocks and monolithic with temporary formwork

A comparison shows that a foundation made of hollow concrete blocks is 18% cheaper than a foundation made of solid ones and 36% cheaper than a strip monolith poured using temporary wooden formwork. This is achieved by saving on the amount of reinforcement, reducing labor costs, the amount of concrete, etc. But constructing walls from reinforced concrete blocks will be too expensive (compared to polyurethane foam, wood concrete), it is better to use it only for the foundation.

Making permanent formwork with your own hands

Let's consider the process of creating permanent formwork from sheet materials with independent cutting using the example of EPS (extruded polystyrene foam).

Unfold the sheets into fragments corresponding to the width and length of the compacted trench. From the remnants, cut out strips for sides 20–25 cm high. The total length of the sides should correspond to the double perimeter of the trench + 20% for overlap at corner points.
You can cut sheets of polystyrene foam not only with power tools, but also with a hand saw
Place the sheets in the trench so that the sides rest on the EPS layer and do not touch the ground. Secure the sheets at the corners by piercing the material with plastic ties of the SVT system.
When laying EPS sheets in a trench, try to minimize the gaps
Place the halves of plastic ties between the vertical sheets and secure them together. If the system does not click tightly enough, tighten the connections with pliers.
Plastic ties are easy to install by hand
Install reinforcing bars above and below the horizontal ties. To ensure that the metal is embedded in the thickness of the concrete, place pieces of polystyrene foam under the rods. Special grooves on plastic ties will help maintain the same distance between the reinforcement bars throughout the entire foundation.
Both metal and fiberglass reinforcing bars are suitable for reinforcement
Tie the rods together with thin wire, folded 2-3 times. In the same way, the reinforcement can be tied to plastic ties.
Installed reinforcing rods must be tied with thin wire; welding is not allowed
Build up the foundation with whole sheets of EPS, having previously attached narrow strips of the same material to them using plastic clips. Place the prepared sheets as shown in the figure. When installing, pay attention to the location of the grooves and ridges on the sheet.
We begin to increase the height of the foundation
Attach the vertical sheets to each other with ties, install and tie the reinforcement using the technology described above. You should get at least two plastic reinforcement belts, approximately at a distance of 10 cm from the top and bottom edges of the sheet.
Plastic spacers between the plates are installed in the same way
Attach locking plates to the sharp ends of the plastic ties and trim off the ends that remain free.
Protruding tails of ties can be easily trimmed with pliers
Fill the reinforced formwork with cement-sand mortar. To prepare concrete, you can use your own concrete mixer, but you will need a lot of solution. If you doubt that you can pour the entire foundation in a day, it is better to use the services of an industrial concrete mixer tank.
Filling the finished foundation with concrete
Remove air bubbles with a construction vibrator and level the concrete surface. In this case, it is impossible to expel the air with a reinforcing rod, since the metal will damage the formwork, easily piercing the EPS sheet.
The upper plane of the concrete layer should be at the level of the outer layer of the formwork

After the foundation concrete has completely hardened, you can continue pouring the walls using the same technology, but such a foundation can also be used with other materials.

Video: technology for building a house with permanent formwork from particle blocks

When giving preference to one of the options for permanent formwork, consider not only your financial capabilities and labor costs, but also its purpose. For example, in areas with swampy soil you should not use blocks based on wood chips, and in cold regions you should pay attention to a material with a minimum thermal conductivity coefficient. In this case, you can quickly build warm house without extra financial costs.

This is explained by its high reliability and ease of construction. Even a person who does not have much construction experience can easily fill an area for a garage or a fence. Knowledge about formwork installation will never be superfluous and will allow you to correctly calculate required amount filling material. Therefore, today we’ll talk about how to make formwork for strip foundation.

The term “formwork” refers to a special construction barrier with the help of which concrete is poured into molds. During the process, the liquid solution is poured into the prepared form and vibrates special devices for compaction and removal of air bubbles leading to internal destruction, and left until hardening.

At the same time, the formwork allows you to give the future foundation various shapes and configuration, and also, when performed with a certain accuracy, allows you to obtain a flat horizontal surface of the strip foundation, ready for masonry work.

Types of formwork

According to classification, formwork can be divided into several groups: according to material, manufacturing method, removable or non-removable.

Metal formwork fencing is highly reliable, can withstand large volumes of poured concrete, and can be assembled in the shortest possible time. Assembling any necessary shape, be it a square or a rectangle, is done in a few simple operations. Special fastenings allow you to move and extend metal sheets, Giving required volume for filling. The disadvantages of this type include high cost. This equipment is mainly used on large construction sites and in specialized construction teams whose profile is pouring foundations.

For people who need formwork for a single use, it is perfect wooden version. The assembly process takes longer compared to a metal counterpart, but the cost of the raw materials used is several times lower.

There is also the option of permanent formwork, which consists of polystyrene foam blocks into which concrete is poured. This type of formwork is also insulation for the foundation. This product is installed in the required location, poured into the cavity, after which the entire system remains in place. A foundation of this kind is one of the smoothest and confidently holds the palm in the budget rank.

Budget formwork

If at a construction site there is an acute question of what to make formwork for the foundation from as cheaply as possible, then the cheapest way to create such a structure is to use old doors. This method is ideal for small volumes of pouring and allows you to reduce manufacturing costs significantly. Assembly and fitting has some difficulties, since the bulges of the doors do not allow pouring a completely flat foundation right away, but this problem is easily resolved. A huge advantage door formwork is a monolithic structure, which reduces the cost of spacer material.

Making formwork with your own hands

The first step before starting work on the formwork itself is to prepare land plot. After digging the trench, you can calculate the required material. Using sheets of laminated wood of medium thickness will allow you to quickly assemble a structure to the required dimensions. Using boards is possible, but this method has several disadvantages:

low accuracy of the side surface of the foundation with the final result;
high probability of solution breakthrough due to excessive pressure on one area;
long assembly.

If you decide to build formwork from boards, then to carry out the work you need to use edged board with a thickness of 40 mm. Boards with a smaller thickness can easily sag under the pressure of concrete, which will negate all efforts and costs. Boards with too much thickness will lead to unnecessary costs, although bearing capacity This will not affect the formwork. Therefore, which board to use for formwork, each builder decides for himself, based on the budget and specifications future foundation.

As a rule, the internal cavity of the formwork, made of boards, is covered with a layer of greenhouse film, which prevents concrete from flowing out through the cracks between the boards.

When using sheets, the load is distributed evenly, which avoids overpressure in specific areas. An important component is a sufficient amount of spacer material. Let's talk more about it.

Special devices and stops, which will support the formwork from the outside and tighten it from the inside, will avoid the destruction of the structure. As a rule, to strengthen the formwork of a strip foundation, studs are used, which are installed inside the formwork, secured from the outside with nuts and serve to hold the structure against concrete pressure from the inside.

The second element for strengthening the formwork is the jibs, which are installed externally in increments of 1-1.5 meters along the entire length of the formwork on both sides. These supports provide additional stability to the entire formwork.

Formwork for non-standard shapes

Columns, curves and other structures or their individual elements require a special approach. For these places it is recommended to use plastic or metal inserts, which will preserve the intended shape and aesthetic appearance with maximum accuracy. Strengthening with additional spacers will never be superfluous - you completely eliminate the risk of leakage.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the provision of technological holes in the foundation. Such openings include vents and outlets for communication pipes. For this purpose, special insert sleeves are made in the formwork from plastic pipes, which then allow you to get through holes in the foundation.

Conclusion

The foundation is the basis of any structure and the key to its long service life, so it is worth taking the most responsible approach to its preparation and pouring. Careless attitude and the use of improper materials automatically reduces the service life several times. At the beginning of the construction process, every owner wants to end up with a strong and beautiful structure that will serve him and his children.

Do not neglect information from professionals when building on your own. Having an experienced craftsman on your team will help you correctly distribute available resources and create a solid foundation for your future home. An important detail when pouring, reinforcement is used - creating a mesh of metal rods that create a powerful frame for strengthening. Taking into account all the nuances from the selection of raw materials to the process of filling the box with concrete is mandatory to obtain the required result.

Finally, we invite you to take a closer look at self-construction formwork for strip foundation:

Before we start building formwork for a strip foundation, let's look at how many types of formwork structures there are.

The quality of the entire construction largely depends on the quality of the work performed on installing the formwork and on the base of the house, that is, on the foundation.

Types of formwork

The design of the formwork, depending on the type, is divided into two groups:

Formwork with removable structure;
Formwork that has a non-removable structure.

In construction, it is impossible to do without the formation of a monolithic, concrete and reinforced concrete structure. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a house or a pre-built frame called formwork.

When self-construction, the formwork for the strip foundation is made by hand. The main thing is to choose the type of formwork and correctly carry out all its step-by-step construction.

Let's take a closer look at each of them.

So, the formwork design, as already mentioned, can be removable or not.

The most famous and widely used type of construction. Removable formwork means that after pouring the strip foundation, this type of formwork must be dismantled.

Moreover, in this case it is removed immediately after the poured concrete has set.

Thanks to this type of formwork it is possible to form a foundation with any shape. This applies not only to strip foundations, but also to flights of stairs, monolithic walls and so on.

A removable structure is made using:

Sliced board;
Sheets of plywood, which differs from ordinary plywood in increased moisture resistance;
Steel sheets, which can be made of any material, that is, both steel and aluminum.

But, for the construction of a strip foundation, it is better to use cut boards, moisture-resistant plywood and wooden beams. You can also simplify the formwork construction process by using a special metal frame for attaching cut boards.

At the same time, remember that it is not worth installing formwork using only plywood. It can only be used if the foundation is small in size.

It is better to opt for beams and wooden boards.

It doesn’t matter what material the formwork structure is made of. The main thing is to follow the basic installation rules during construction.

Permanent formwork is considered an advantageous type and is easy to install; moreover, the construction speed in this case is much higher than with a permanent structure.

For its construction, improvised materials are most often used. This could be chipboard, fiberboard, a metal frame, or even metal or asbestos pipes with a diameter of 150 to 200 mm. Therefore this is a huge plus.

This formwork is easy to install and does not require large earthworks. No spacers or supports are needed during construction.

Fixed

Types of permanent formwork

Metal

This type is considered the most expensive. It is made from steel sheets with a thickness of 1 to 2 mm.

Advantages of this type:

good
It easily takes the desired shape of the foundation
Tape or monolithic foundation fits perfectly on metal formwork
The outer side is easy and simple to process

high price.

Reinforced concrete

This species is considered a relative variant.

Advantages:

Depending on thickness concrete slabs, you can significantly reduce the consumption of concrete itself. At the same time, its strength will not decrease in any way.

The slabs are very heavy
If the slabs are not monolithic and one height is not enough, you will have to make spacers

Expanded polystyrene

This option is considered the most practical. In this case, the formwork is assembled from separate blocks, which are fixed together.

Advantages:

Easy installation
It is possible to give a certain shape
Insulation

Not very low price
Difficulty selecting some elements

Wooden

The material you can use is plywood sheets or boards.

Advantages:

Good price
Availability of material
Easy installation
No need to purchase additional equipment for installation

Due to the different dimensions of the material, it may be necessary to use additional funds for strengthening and connecting formwork

Available materials

What available materials can be used in the construction of formwork?

Pipes
Corrugated sheet
Slate
Any other suitable material, which can provide the desired shape and at the same time prevent cement leakage

Advantages:

Cheap construction

Assembly complexity
Concrete leakage during pouring
Possibly low load carrying capacity
Additional supports may be needed

How to properly make permanent formwork for a foundation with your own hands?

Do-it-yourself permanent formwork for the foundation

It is being built in several stages.

The first stage - excavation work

After calculating the required capacity of the future formwork, a trench is dug.

Advice: leave a margin of 1 to 2.5 cm between the soil and the future formwork. This method will simplify installation.

If you decide to use reinforcement, then it must be installed at this stage.

The second stage is the construction of formwork elements

At this stage, the formation of the reinforcement frame occurs, if one is used. In addition, a structure with the selected material is erected.

After these steps, the concrete is poured. In about 25 - 30 days, construction can begin. During this time, the concrete will set and harden and it will be possible to proceed to the next steps.

How to assemble formwork for a strip foundation

The frame of the structure is only rigid, with strong fixation of all elements;
The formwork elements should not have any gaps, all parts of the formwork must fit exactly together;
The formwork must withstand the created pressure of the concrete solution.

Material is being prepared. These should be cut boards, 20-45 mm in thickness. Width doesn't matter. But the wider the board, the easier and faster it is to construct the formwork.

A board is knocked down from the prepared board with a height in accordance with the height of the foundation.

The shields are fastened together wooden beams using self-tapping screws, and only the screws are screwed in with their caps from the inside. The slots are additionally lined with slats in accordance with the dimensions of the shield.

The instructions for constructing the formwork themselves look like this:

Preparation of the workplace, that is, digging a trench, preparing building material and tools;
Cut the boards to size according to the size of the foundation;
Manufacturing of shields;
Fastening the formwork, fixing the strength from the outside of the structure;
Test of strength.

Properly completed formwork construction means there is a complete absence of problems during the manufacture of the strip foundation.

A house starts with a foundation. Make it with my own hands not difficult, experts say and give their advice step-by-step installation formwork - a key element of the future foundation of the house. The article, as well as photos and videos, will help you understand the recommendations.

How to choose formwork

To make the concrete support of the building strong and monolithic, the builders came up with formwork.

It can be temporary or permanent, made of wood or polymers, but its main tasks remain unchanged:

create and maintain the shape of the above-ground part of a concrete strip foundation;
be as smooth from the inside as possible to minimize subsequent Finishing work ground part of the structure;
cope with the loads when pouring and compacting concrete mortar;
quickly assemble and disassemble;
if necessary, isolate concrete from soil and other negative factors.

To ensure that the installation goes smoothly, and you do not have to deal with unexpected problems, you need to make sure that five main conditions are in place before starting work:

The soil on which the base is poured must be completely free of debris and various impurities.
Shields with inside should have as smooth and clean a surface as possible in order to reduce finishing work.
The formwork fastening must withstand the pressure of concrete and not deform.
Maximum contact between the components of the shield is necessary to prevent leakage. For this, the clarity of the geometry of the edges of the structure is important.
If formwork panels are reused, all work surface from the remains of the previous solution.

Attention! Modern formwork is classified into two categories: removable and permanent. In addition, it differs in the type of material used: wood, plywood, metal, polystyrene foam, etc.

Removable formwork: time-tested installation

Mount, pour, cure and remove - this is a short recipe for installing removable formwork. Its most popular variety - wooden - is as old as a concrete foundation. Making such formwork is not difficult. Shields are made outside the construction pit from boards and lumber required sizes. The boards are edged, since it will be necessary to fit them tightly to each other.

Attention! Gaps of up to 3 mm in wood formwork are considered normal. As a result of pre-wetting, the boards will swell and the distance will decrease. If the gaps are larger, up to 10 mm, they must be covered with tow, and very large ones must be clogged with slats.

The structure is held together using vertical posts (most often made of timber). It is recommended to place them at intervals of approximately 1 m. The bars can be placed more often if the boards are thin. It is also important that the length allows them to hold tightly.

It is better to sharpen the bars at one end, then they will easily enter the ground. To fix the formwork panels at the same distance, wire twists, struts, frames, and wooden ties are used.

Advice. Instead of nails, it is better to use self-tapping screws during installation. The structure assembled on them is easier to disassemble, because it will be enough to simply unscrew them, and not unbend them, as is the case with nails. It is necessary to knock down the boards so that the heads of the nails (screws) are on the inside of the formwork.

The final step in installing wooden formwork is securing the panels in the trench using spacers: wooden stakes or bars. After pouring and compacting, the concrete is kept in the formwork for up to two weeks until it hardens and gains strength. Afterwards the structure is dismantled. Plywood formwork is installed according to a similar principle.

Attention! It is advisable to isolate removable formwork from concrete special compounds against adhesion of materials.

Permanent formwork for the foundation: a new word in construction

IN last years The removable one is replaced by a structure using polymer formwork, which, after pouring concrete, becomes part of the future foundation. It gives it additional properties, protecting it from water and retaining heat. Additional properties of permanent formwork made from this material: ease of assembly (somewhat reminiscent of a construction set or a puzzle) and, as a result, geometric harmony of the parts. Certain types of polymer formwork have a reinforcing mesh that strengthens the foundation.

The downside is that the cost of such a foundation is higher than that of one built using boards. However, the game is worth the candle when we're talking about about what is being built for decades and for oneself. Permanent formwork can also be made from galvanized profile sheet - in the finished foundation it will protect the surface of the concrete, and its waves will serve as stiffeners. To such metal structure Additionally, a removable “belt” of timber stakes is required.

Formwork for the foundation: video

DIY foundation: photo

Not a single construction site is complete without concreting, and where concrete mortar- there is formwork there. The design used in manufacturing deserves special attention. After all, the quality of the foundation for the house largely depends on its reliability.

Pouring formwork can cause the following problems:

expansion during concreting;
partial destruction;
local leaks of concrete mixture.

To avoid this and find out what to make a structure from reliably and cheaply and what the requirements are, take advantage of the practical experience of experts at the FORUMHOUSE website.

What to make formwork from

The quality of the design largely depends on what material it is made from. The formwork is made from: laminated plywood, OSB boards, DSP sheets, flat slate, non-removable sheets of polystyrene foam. It's even in use old furniture, as well as “used” pallets.

But the undisputed leader is ordinary wood.

How to make a structure from boards

Forum members advise how to make formwork panels. To assemble horizontal panels, it is recommended to use edged boards measuring 100x25 mm and 150x30 mm, and for vertical panels, use timber 100x50 mm, resting him against the shield with his edge.

The vertical installation step is transverse (beam 50x100 mm) - from 70 to 100 cm. To make the formwork more rigid, two 50x100 mm beams are installed horizontally on each side, top and bottom.

With a well-thought-out design and competent execution, the strength of boards of these standard sizes is sufficient to withstand the pressure of large volumes of concrete mixture on the walls of the structure.

When choosing boards for this design, you must immediately consider the option of their further use. Because formwork for the foundation will require more than one cube; it is irrational to use boards only once. In order for the boards to remain “industrial wood” after dismantling, it is necessary to protect them from direct contact with concrete.

How to attach the film

Before concreting, the inside of the structure is lined with a durable polyethylene film for formwork, which must be secured with a stapler. Construction is best done using self-tapping screws. In this case, it can be easily disassembled, minimizing damage to the formwork boards.

Dmitrievich-50 member of FORUMHOUSE

After dismantling the formwork, I put a 30x120 mm board on the sheathing. Before this, I cleaned the surface of the boards from staples. The main thing is to disassemble everything carefully.

UKSUS70 FORUMHOUSE member