Mulberry (mulberry) is quite easy to propagate different ways: seed, green cuttings, layering, grafting and woody cuttings.
The first three methods can be used if there is already a mature mulberry tree on the site and you need to propagate it.
The last two, so we will dwell on them in more detail, allow you to get new varieties and forms, or grow the first mulberry on your plot.
Graft.
Produced in exactly the same way as others fruit crops. In the same way, it is necessary to properly store the cuttings before grafting or rooting: a slightly damp loose substrate, a bag and a constant storage temperature of no higher than + 5 and no lower than -5 C will do.
Mulberry is grafted only onto seedlings or mature mulberry trees.
All three species - white mulberry, black mulberry and red mulberry - are well compatible in terms of grafting. There are botanically related genera, also included in the Mulberry tribe, which theoretically can serve as a rootstock for mulberries, but they are all inhabitants of the tropical zone, so finding such a rootstock is both difficult and useless in a practical sense.
Rooting lignified cuttings.
You can root cuttings that were prepared in the fall, after leaf fall.
There are two ways.
First method: if you have a refrigerator or cold basement with a temperature of about 0 C.
1. select a substrate - light, moisture-intensive, airy, for example - perlite, coarse sand, coconut fiber. Callus and roots will form only in an air-rich environment.
2. cut cuttings 10-15 cm long. The lower cut is oblique, under the bud. The upper one is flat, 1 cm above the kidney. If desired, you can groove the bottom of each.
3. We immerse the lower sections (exactly only the sections, to a height of only 1-2 mm, stimulants can cause the death of the cortex) into any root formation stimulator. We take what is suitable for rooting tree and shrub species, preferably with a known active substance: IBA, NAA, IAA of hormonal nature. We follow the instructions: either make a solution, or simply dip the sections in powder.
5. if we store it in a cold basement, then simply place the pot on damp soil or a layer of wet sand; if in the refrigerator, then place the container in a bag, otherwise the unit will draw moisture from the shoots and dry the cuttings to death; Once a month we inspect and, if necessary, slightly moisten the substrate;
6. in the spring, as soon as there is a lot of sun and the day becomes longer than the night (this is important for this breed), we put the pot on the most bright window and cover glass jar;
If there is a good drainage hole in the bottom of the pot, it will be difficult to overfill the substrate. But. It may dry out quickly, so you need to keep an eye on it. It is better to moisten the surface often, but in small doses.
7. As soon as the shoots from the buds grow to a length of 4-5 cm, rooting can be considered complete. An additional sign is that if you gently pull the cutting up, it will offer resistance. This means there are roots and they hold the plant in the substrate.
8. Carefully plant the cuttings one at a time into small containers with nutritious soil. We pinch off the tops of the shoots. Cover with jars. As soon as the active growth of shoots is indicated, we gradually accustom the seedlings to ordinary air - we remove the cans for ventilation, increasing the time of such “walks by fresh air"from 10 minutes for the first time until the moment when it is possible to remove the hood completely. You can use the following formula: the duration of ventilation can be increased per day by 1.5 times: 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, then 20 minutes, then 30 minutes , etc. If you do not follow the “training” schedule, then those who are accustomed to high humidity the shoots will wither and dry out.
9. As soon as the roots of young mulberries completely entwine the soil ball, you can transplant the seedlings into the garden on permanent place. But first you should also accustom them to open ground. First, we put it in continuous shade for 3 days (from the wall of a house, for example), then for several days under the crown of a large tree, where on a sunny day light and shadow alternate in the form of moving spots; after a week we put it in the sun, but remove it at midday; and after exposure to direct sun for several days without signs of burns or wilting, plant directly into the garden. Otherwise, seedlings from the windowsill may die from heat and light stress.
10. don’t forget to water and weed; We are waiting for the harvest.
The second method: there is only room to store the cuttings in the cold until spring.
1. store the material covered with a moisture-absorbing substrate: slightly moistened clean sand, perlite, vermiculite, clean shavings, in a sealed tight plastic bag, in the refrigerator at a temperature not exceeding + 5 C. Store until the confident beginning of spring, that is, until that time , when there is enough sun and the day becomes longer than the night (this is important for this breed).
2 . We select a substrate - light, moisture-intensive, airy, for example - perlite, coarse sand, coconut fiber. Callus and roots will form only in an air-rich environment; we select a not very spacious pot with a large drainage hole in the day.
3. cut cuttings 10-15 cm long. The lower cut is oblique, under the bud. The upper one is flat, 1 cm above the kidney. If desired, you can groove the bottom of each.
4. We immerse the lower sections (exactly only the sections, to a height of only 1-2 mm, stimulants can cause the death of the cortex) into any root formation stimulator. We take what is suitable for rooting tree and shrub species, preferably with a known active ingredient: IBA, NAA, IAA (hormonal nature). We follow the instructions: either make a solution, or simply dip the sections in powder.
4. We stick the cuttings into the pot almost to the entire depth. We leave only 1 bud above the surface of the substrate.
5. Spill moderately and cover the pot with a glass jar; a glass jar allows light to pass through well, but will not give a strong greenhouse effect inside the shelter, and also drops of condensate flow down it well, which allows you to maintain optimal humidity; If in the first days inside the cap will collect a lot of water, you will need to remove it and shake off the water, then wipe the inner surface with a dry cloth, since excess water in the form of drops can cause mold;
6. As soon as the shoots from the buds grow to a length of 4-5 cm, rooting can be considered complete. An additional sign is that if you gently pull the cutting up, it will offer resistance. This means there are roots and they hold the plant in the substrate.
7. Carefully transplant the cuttings into nutritious soil one at a time. We pinch off the tops of the shoots. Cover with jars. As soon as the active growth of shoots is indicated, we gradually accustom the seedlings to normal air - we remove the cans for ventilation, increasing the time of such “walks in the fresh air” from 10 minutes for the first time until the moment when it is possible to remove the cap completely. You can use the following formula: the duration of ventilation can be increased per day by 1.5 times: 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, then 20 minutes, then 30 minutes and so on. If you do not follow the “training” schedule, the shoots accustomed to high humidity will wither and dry out.
8. As soon as the roots of young mulberries have completely entwined the soil ball, you can transplant the seedlings into the garden to a permanent place. But first you should also accustom them to open ground. First, we put it in continuous shade for 3 days (from the wall of a house, for example), then for several days under the crown of a large tree, where on a sunny day light and shadow alternate in the form of moving spots; after a week we put it in the sun, but remove it at midday; and after exposure to direct sun for several days without signs of burns or wilting, plant directly into the garden. Otherwise, seedlings from the windowsill may die from heat and light stress.
9. don’t forget to water and weed; We are waiting for the harvest.
Mulberry is a deciduous tree with a spreading crown of southern origin. It is also called mulberry tree or mulberry tree. Today there are about one hundred and twenty varieties of this tree. Some of them are grown in industrial scale, since their leaves are a source of food for silkworms, thanks to which they obtain the finest threads of natural silk.
But besides this important task, mulberries provide tasty and useful fruits, and also has medicinal properties.
Recently, the mulberry tree has attracted increasing interest from landscape designers, who use its various types to decorate estates, parks, and large and small gardens.
Mulberry feels great not only in the southern regions of our country, but also tolerates harsher climates.
The most common types are white and black mulberries. They received this name because of the color of the bark.
It is the white mulberry tree that is used to provide food for silkworm caterpillars.
The tree grows quite quickly and bears fruit well. But the best performance is achieved when certain conditions are met. For mulberry you need:
- fertile nutritious soil;
- removal of groundwater.
Mulberry tolerates dry weather, saline soil and even pollution. environment(grows near roadsides, plants and factories).
Height of an adult tree at favorable conditions and lack of pruning reaches thirty meters. IN landscape design, as a rule, the crown is trimmed, shaping the size and shape. Thanks to regular pruning of branches, you can get not only beautiful tree, but also significantly speed up its fruiting.
Mulberry fruits are quite sweet and juicy, which ripen in early summer and delight with their abundance and gradual ripening.
Reproduction
Mulberry tree has good ability to reproduce. You can get new specimens using cuttings, seeds, maternal offspring, or by grafting. Of course in order to grow mature tree Any of the indicated methods will require not only time, but also some effort. Let us immediately note that the success of any endeavor depends on a positive attitude, faith in success and diligence.
And so, in order to get mulberries and seeds, you must first collect the seeds; for this, well-ripened berries are selected, kneaded and washed with a sieve and water. Then the seeds can be immediately planted in specially prepared containers with nutrient soil. Shoots appear after two weeks. Young seedlings grow up to ten centimeters by autumn. To ensure they overwinter well, the trees are dug up, placed in damp sawdust and stored in the basement. If the seedlings were grown in open ground, then you don’t have to dig them up, but cover them with dry leaves and grass to protect them from frost.
Note that mulberry seeds can be stored, so collected in the summer, they are dried and stored in fabric bags. Before planting, at the beginning of spring, they are soaked in water for a day, after which they are planted in open ground.
Since mulberry seeds are quite small, maximum depth landing should not exceed two centimeters.
Seed propagation is used to breed new varieties and to grow rootstocks for varietal seedlings. For other purposes, other methods of propagation are used, since the seed tree does not retain the characteristics of the mother tree.
In order to grow a tree with identical characteristics of the mother tree, a vegetative propagation method is used. You can use layering. To do this, you need to bend the lower branch of the mulberry to the ground, fix it and cover it with soil. In order for the branch to take root as quickly as possible, it is recommended to break it at the point of fixation and remove a little bark. This manipulation is done in early spring As a rule, small roots appear by autumn. You need to let the cuttings get stronger until spring. You just need to cover it for the winter.
The vegetative method also includes mulberry grafting. The most effective spring budding is a germinating eye. Other methods do not always give positive results. Although theoretically they should all be successful.
For eye grafting, it is necessary to prepare buds from last year's shoots. To do this, you can prepare cuttings in the fall or cut them in early spring. Budding is carried out using the butt method.
A fairly popular method of propagating mulberries is cuttings, which can be carried out using lignified, semi-lignified and green cuttings.
The most optimal method for mulberries is propagation by semi-lignified cuttings. Firstly, it has a high rooting rate, and secondly, it is suitable for all types of trees.
A few words about how cuttings are prepared and planted. This propagation process begins at the end of June, when young green shoots begin to become woody. They are cut so that at least two buds remain. The upper cut ends slightly above the upper bud, and the lower one is made directly under the eye. Then the shoots are cleared of leaves, treated with a stimulant and planted in pre-prepared greenhouses or under a plastic bottle at a slight slope.
Rooting cuttings does not take much time; as a rule, by autumn the first buds may appear on the shoots - this is a clear sign that the cuttings have taken root.
You can also use two other cutting methods. The resulting seedlings, after rooting, can be dug up and moved to the basement for the winter or left in open ground, while covering them.
Mulberry, or mulberry tree, belongs to a small genus of deciduous trees of the Mulberry family. Thanks to breeding work, many varieties of the plant have been obtained, differing in the structure of the crown, color and size of the fruit.
Mulberry: description of culture
Mulberry is a tall deciduous tree with a spreading weeping crown. In the botanical classification, there are up to 100 species of mulberry. The mulberry tree grows naturally in Japan, China, India, and Turkey. Since ancient times, mulberries have been considered medicinal plant and is valued for its healing properties. In addition, the foliage is used in silk spinning: it feeds silkworms, which produce the finest threads of natural silk.
The distribution area is quite wide, despite the southern origin of the tree. Mulberries can be found in the Moscow region, in St. Petersburg, and are also common in the Middle Volga region.
The most common types are black and white mulberries.
On a note! These two species are named because of the color of the tree bark rather than the color of the berries.
How does mulberry reproduce?
It is very easy to obtain new specimens of a deciduous tree, since the mulberry tree reproduces easily. The seed method is used, cuttings: green, lignified, semi-lignified cuttings, grafting, and also offspring. Concerning decorative varieties, they are propagated only by grafting.
Seed propagation
All types of mulberries can be propagated by seeds collected from well-ripened berries - this is the easiest way. When and how to collect mulberries for propagation? Seeds must be extracted from fully ripened fruits. To do this, you need to collect the berries and place them in a glass container, expose it to the sun so that the fermentation process begins.
Can be seeds
Then you will need to rub the entire mass with your hands and remove the resulting foam. Then add water again, rinse and pass through a fine-mesh sieve; the seeds are small. The mass must be washed until planting material will not become clean, free from pulp. Next, the seeds need to be dried, put in a paper bag and stored in this form at home until spring.
Attention! When propagating by seed, it is important that the seeds undergo stratification. Without this agrotechnical technique, it will be impossible to germinate them.
To stratify the seeds, they need to be taken out of the bag, moistened and placed in the refrigerator. Seeds must be stratified within 1.5 months. If for some reason this did not work out, they need to be soaked in water for 3 days before sowing.
Sowing of seeds is carried out at the end of April or at the beginning of May in fertile soil, deepening them 1 cm into the ground. To germinate, seeds need regular watering and good lighting. When young seedlings appear, they must be protected from direct sunlight and the trees must not be destroyed by return frosts.
To guarantee good growth plants, you need to thin out the plantings when the 5th true leaf forms on the seedlings. Thinned plantings should be left and grown in the same place for 2 years. No picking needed!
Picking is not needed
You should know that when a mulberry tree is propagated by seeds, maternal characteristics are not transmitted to the seedling, therefore, if it propagates decorative look mulberries, it is advisable to resort to the method of propagation by grafting.
On a note! What can be grafted onto mulberries grown from seeds? Seedlings obtained from seeds are often used for grafting ornamental varieties.
Rooting green cuttings
In summer it is necessary to spend sanitary pruning mulberries. Taking this opportunity, you can root green cuttings. How to grow mulberries from a green branch? It is advisable to select young cuttings from the middle part of the branch. When cutting, you need to make sure that there are at least 2 buds on each cutting. The material to be rooted must be buried 3 cm into the soil, watered and covered. plastic film, creating greenhouse conditions.
Caring for rooted cuttings is easy. It is necessary to water them on time, not allowing the earthen ball to dry out, spray them with water in the evenings, and open the greenhouse slightly for ventilation. When it becomes noticeable that the cuttings have taken root and the buds on them swell, mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil.
The appearance of new shoots on the cuttings indicates that rooting was successful. Mulberry propagation by green cuttings - good method for obtaining new trees, but it is not suitable for obtaining new varieties.
Mulberry cuttings
Reproduction by top grafting
All known methods vaccinations are suitable for propagating mulberry trees. According to gardeners, the most simple method propagation by grafting is copulation, when grafting is carried out on a cut with a cutting.
The top grafting is carried out in winter time or in the spring indoors, because until sap flow begins, the cuttings grow together much faster. Mulberry grafting in summer is not advisable.
Simple copulation
Cuttings of equal thickness are selected: rootstock and scion. The length of each cutting should be 4 times its diameter. In order for the cambial layers to fit well and take root faster, you need to make an oblique cut (for example, if the cutting is 1.5 cm in diameter, then the cut between the buds should be at least 6 cm). After combining the sections, it is necessary to cover them with a tight bandage. You can use soft polyethylene; it will not allow the layers to move, which is the key to successful copulation.
Copulation
Copulation with tongue: improved
Unlike conventional copulation, this manipulation is carried out in such a way that additional cuts or notches are made on oblique sections. This is necessary so that when combined, a strong connection of the cambial layers occurs.
The notch is performed as follows: it is necessary to indent 1/3 of the cut from the edge (on the scion, indent from the top, on the rootstock, indent from the bottom), make a notch and bring it to half of the oblique cut. The result is tongues that make it easier to join the scion and rootstock. The result is good survival rate.
Rooting semi-lignified cuttings
Semi-lignified cuttings are formed on the mulberry by the end of June. At this time, lignification of green shoots occurs.
Advice! For better rooting, it is advisable to build a mini-greenhouse.
When cutting cuttings, you need to leave 2-3 buds on each of them. The upper cut is made above the upper bud, the lower cut - under the lower eye. After cutting, it is necessary to tear off all the foliage, dip the lower sections in a growth stimulator and plant them at an angle in fertile soil.
Rooting occurs quickly; by autumn, new shoots begin to form on the cuttings from the swollen buds. This indicates that the cuttings of young mulberries were successful.
Mulberry cultivation using vertical layering can be carried out after the growth of new shoots, which are formed after cutting the mother plant onto the stump. Layers are dug in March or autumn.
Propagation by lignified cuttings
For harvesting lignified cuttings, those that grow on the outer, well-lit side of the crown are suitable. Harvesting is carried out during the cold period, when leaves fall from the trees.
Mulberry
The cut cuttings should not be less than 18 cm. The lower cut should be dipped in a solution of root or heteroauxin and planted on the bed so that only the apical part of the cutting is visible. The cutting should rise above the ground only to a height of 5 cm, the rest should be buried in the ground.
Rooted cuttings can grow in the same place for 2 years, then they should be transferred to a permanent place.
The procedure for rooting prepared cuttings can be carried out in the spring. To do this, cut cuttings should be placed in moist soil and placed in a cold room until spring. With the start of sap flow, the cuttings are transferred to the garden bed.
Common mistakes when propagating mulberries
When propagating mulberries, many people complain about rotting of the cuttings, and the rooting rate is reduced to zero. How to propagate mulberries to avoid loss of planting material:
- When cutting cuttings, use only disinfected tools.
- The whole process must take place very quickly, since the cut layers oxidize very quickly.
- After the grafting is completed, the joint must be covered with garden varnish.
- It should be noted that when propagating by seeds of deciduous species, it is impossible to obtain identical plants, since maternal characteristics are not transmitted to the seedlings.
- Mulberry can reproduce independently - by seeds that germinate on next year near the plant. However, you need to be able to separate new seedlings that have sprouted from seeds from the shoots.
Mulberries form shoots. This can be used in harsh winters, when the above-ground part of the plant freezes and root shoots replace it. Excess shoots need to be cut out or dug up and planted in a new place. Root growth completely repeats maternal characteristics.
Green semi-lignified cuttings are quite simple. The yield is slightly lower when propagated by lignified cuttings. It also lasts longer. If semi-lignified cuttings planted in mid-summer by autumn produce marketable seedlings (in the first photo) in just 3-4 months, then seedlings from woody cuttings need to be grown for another year. Below we talk only about semi-lignified cuttings. By the way, the same green cuttings You can propagate honeysuckle, blackberries, actinidia, golden currants (they cannot be propagated in other ways), viburnum, dogwood, roses, varietal rose hips and probably much more.
Preparing a hole for planting cuttings.
I choose a place for the pit that is shaded all day. Allowed to hit sun rays at sunrise and sunset. The pit is made from fertile soil. There are beautiful black soils in Mirgorod, so I just dig up the soil, level it and apply upper layer 5 cm of sand. Sand should only be river sand. The quarry must be pre-washed running water, in a barrel. The second photo roughly looks like a place for honeysuckle cuttings with a fog-forming installation under a film tunnel. But for most amateur gardeners, with their small volumes, it is enough and easier to grow everything under simple plastic bottles.
Preparation of cuttings.
In the second ten days of July, cuttings are taken from the basal and middle parts of semi-lignified shoots. A young shoot that has grown since spring should not break when bent. The upper cut is made directly above the upper bud, and the lower one, 0.5-1 cm below the lower one. Root germination will occur only from the area of the bud node. The cuttings should have 2-4 buds, the leaf plate of the top leaf is shortened by 1/3, and the other leaves are removed, and if they are small, you can leave them. I put the prepared cuttings in plastic bag, moisturize and incubate for 24 hours at a temperature of 5°C. If there are no such conditions, it is enough to immerse the lower ends of the cuttings in any root former overnight. It is very important that the leaf does not lose turgor. To achieve this, all operations are carried out in the shade and quickly. I cut a branch from a tree, cut it into cuttings with a leaf, placed it in a jar with a root former, placed the jar in a new garbage bag, which I tied to seal it, and put it in the basement overnight. Any root formers can be used, but according to research by Siberian nursery scientists, the most effective are root formers obtained in two ways. First: dilute 30 grams of aloe juice in 1 liter of water. Second: 30 gr. Dissolve propolis in a minimal amount of alcohol and pour into 1 liter of water.
Planting cuttings.
After leveling the dry sand on the surface of the earth, I carefully moisten it (the entire layer must be wetted). At two liter plastic bottle I cut off the bottom and make marks on the sand, in a row, circle to circle. The second row is close to the first, but in a checkerboard pattern. The cuttings must be immersed in sand so that the ends do not reach 1-1.5 cm to the ground. In practice, this is done as follows. I press the cutting into the sand until it touches the ground (a denser layer), then lift it 1.5 cm and press the sand tightly with my fingers around the cutting. I carefully push the leaves into the bottle and press the edges of the bottle into the sand by 1-1.5 cm. In the future, I water the bottles 3-4 times a day. The water spreads evenly in the sand and evaporates under the bottle. On the leaves and inner surface bottles there is always condensation. After a shoot-length leaf sprouts from the axillary bud, when the bottle begins to interfere, I remove it in the evening. As the shoots increase, watering is done less frequently. It is important not to over-moisten the soil and sand during the entire period. At the first stage, the bottom of the cuttings may rot in the sand. When grown in natural soil, by mid-October, seedlings reach a height of up to a meter or more. When grown in pots, they will be significantly smaller and will most often need growing.
The third photo shows a three-year-old seedling. There were people who wanted to get such a seedling, but it took root much more difficult than in the first photo.
Among the countless varieties and hybrids of sweet peppers, there are those, such as the Ramiro pepper, whose popularity is literally worldwide. And if most vegetables on supermarket shelves are nameless, and it is almost impossible to find out about their variety, then the name of this pepper “Ramiro” will certainly be on the packaging. And, as my experience has shown, this pepper is worth letting other gardeners know about it. In connection with which this article was written.
Autumn is the most mushroom time. It is no longer hot, and heavy dew falls in the mornings. Since the earth is still warm, and foliage has already attacked from above, creating a completely special microclimate in the ground layer, the mushrooms are very comfortable. Mushroom pickers are also comfortable at this time, especially in the mornings when it is cooler. It's time for both to meet. And, if you haven’t introduced yourself to each other, get to know each other. In this article I will introduce you to exotic, little-known and not always edible mushrooms, similar to corals.
If you are a busy person, but at the same time not devoid of romance, if you have your own plot and are endowed with aesthetic taste, then explore the opportunity to purchase this wonderful ornamental shrub– karyopteris, or Nutwing. He is also “wing-hazel”, “blue fog” and “blue beard”. It truly fully combines unpretentiousness and beauty. Karyopteris reaches its peak of decorativeness in late summer and autumn. It is at this time that it blooms.
Pepper ajvar - vegetable caviar or thick vegetable sauce from bell pepper with eggplants. The peppers for this recipe are baked for quite a long time, then they are also stewed. Add to ajvar onion, tomatoes, eggplants. To store eggs for the winter, they are sterilized. This Balkan recipe is not for those who like to make preparations quickly, undercooked and underbaked - not about ajvar. In general, we approach the matter in detail. For the sauce, we choose the ripest and meatiest vegetables on the market.
Despite the simple names (“sticky” or “indoor maple”) and the status of a modern substitute indoor hibiscus, abutilons are far from the simplest plants. They grow well, bloom profusely and delight with a healthy look of greenery only in optimal conditions. On thin leaves, any deviations from comfortable lighting or temperatures and disturbances in care. To reveal the beauty of abutilons in rooms, it is worth finding the ideal place for them.
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The idea of growing vegetables on the grass, under the grass and in the grass is scary at first, until you become imbued with the naturalness of the process: in nature, this is exactly how everything happens. With the obligatory participation of all soil living creatures: from bacteria and fungi to moles and toads. Each of them contributes. Traditional tillage with digging, loosening, fertilizing, and fighting all those we consider pests destroys the biocenoses that have been created over centuries. In addition, it requires a lot of labor and resources.
What to do instead of a lawn? So that all this beauty does not turn yellow, does not get sick and at the same time looks like a lawn... I hope that the smart and quick-witted reader is already smiling. After all, the answer suggests itself - if you do nothing, nothing will happen. Of course, there are several solutions that can be used, and with their help, you can reduce the area of the lawn, and therefore reduce the labor intensity of caring for it. I suggest you consider alternative options and discuss their pros and cons.
Tomato sauce with onions and sweet peppers - thick, aromatic, with pieces of vegetables. The sauce cooks quickly and is thick because this recipe contains pectin. Make such preparations at the end of summer or autumn, when the vegetables have ripened in the sun in the garden beds. Bright, red tomatoes will make equally bright homemade ketchup. This sauce is a ready-made dressing for spaghetti, and you can also simply spread it on bread - very tasty. For better preservation, you can add a little vinegar.
This year I often observed a picture: among the luxurious green crown of trees and shrubs, here and there, like candles, the bleached tops of shoots “burn.” This is chlorosis. Most of us know about chlorosis from school biology lessons. I remember that this is a lack of iron... But chlorosis is an ambiguous concept. And lightening of foliage does not always mean a lack of iron. What is chlorosis, what our plants lack during chlorosis and how to help them, we will tell you in the article.
Korean vegetables for the winter - delicious Korean salad with tomatoes and cucumbers. The salad is sweet and sour, spicy and slightly spicy because it is prepared with Korean carrot seasoning. Be sure to prepare a few jars for the winter; in cold winter, this healthy and aromatic snack will come in handy. You can use overripe cucumbers for the recipe; it is better to harvest vegetables in late summer or early autumn, when they are ripe in the open ground under the sun.
Autumn for me means dahlias. Mine begin to bloom as early as June, and all summer the neighbors peek at me over the fence, reminding them that I promised them a few tubers or seeds by the fall. In September, a tart note appears in the aroma of these flowers, hinting at the approaching cold. This means it’s time to start preparing the plants for the long, cold winter. In this article I will share my secrets autumn care behind perennial dahlias and preparing them for winter storage.
To date, through the efforts of breeders, according to various sources, from seven to ten thousand (!) varieties of cultivated apple trees have been bred. But despite their enormous diversity, in private gardens, as a rule, only a couple of popular and beloved varieties grow. Apple trees are large trees with a spreading crown, and you cannot grow many of them in one area. What if you try to grow columnar varieties of this crop? In this article I will tell you exactly about these varieties of apple trees.
Pinjur - Balkan-style eggplant caviar with sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes. Distinctive feature dishes - eggplants and peppers are first baked, then peeled and simmered for a long time in a roasting pan or in a thick-bottomed pan, adding the rest of the vegetables specified in the recipe. The caviar turns out to be very thick, with a bright, rich taste. In my opinion, this cooking method is the best known. Although it is more troublesome, the result compensates for the labor costs.
