How to properly lay ceramic tiles. Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands: installation process and video installation technology. How to properly lay tiles on a concrete floor: features of preparing the base

The widest selection of floor ceramics does not affect the basic rules for its installation. There are many characteristic features, technological nuances, without knowledge of which you may not get what you expect.

Absolutely all ceramic manufacturers insist: one should start not with testing the base for compliance with standards, but with checking the ceramic finish and developing a plan for its installation.

Your first priority is to choose the right design and caliber of the product. As a rule, in stores, stands are tiled with tiles from one collection in the optimal layout, in the opinion of the plant designers. Approximate variations can be viewed in professional catalogs on manufacturers’ websites or in sales areas.

You can change, supplement or completely redesign the proposed design to your taste. To do this, ask to provide you with several samples of the main tiles and their components (borders, decor, panels, etc.) and create a layout suitable for your room.

But keep in mind - upon entering the room, the first thing that catches your eye is the center of the room or the area that is completely free of furniture and equipment (the so-called free patch). IN small kitchens and bathrooms are, as a rule, no more than 1-2 m². Therefore, laying tiles on a concrete floor should be planned in such a way that the center falls exactly on the visible square meters of area. Thanks to this simple technique, solid elements will be glued to the “empty” area, and cut ones will be glued only around the perimeter. This is especially important if there are uneven walls.

Design planning with offset.

The next stage is the choice of installation scheme for floor ceramics. There are several basic types:

Thanks to the wide variety of formats and types of tiles (elongated planks, polygonal, oval products, etc.), installation of floor ceramics can be carried out according to parquet patterns (herringbone, wicker, deck, squares), chaotically or modularly (a combination of different format claddings).

If you intend to use decorative elements or a combination of colors, then don’t be lazy to make a drawing to scale. You can also request the development of similar sketches from ceramics of the same series, thickness or manufacturer from consultants in shopping centers, specializing in ceramic cladding. As a rule, factories provide not only the appropriate computer programs, but also special devices (outwardly reminiscent of ATMs), on which even an inexperienced user can create his own floor design, in two or three dimensions. BUT! If you want to combine tiles from different manufacturers and calibers, be sure to ensure that the thickness matches perfectly, down to the millimeter. Otherwise, you won’t be able to lay the tiles absolutely straight without any flaws.

It is better to think through the layout in advance in order to purchase the required amount of facing material. The required quadrature is calculated based on:

Surface area

This value must be divided by the area of ​​one element, taking into account the tile joints. If the tile has a complex shape or multi-format ceramics are used in one design, then it is better to draw a drawing.

Tile sizes

The number of whole and trimmed elements in one row depends on this. To calculate the first value, you can ask consultants to make calculations in special programs (provided to sellers by manufacturers) or use the formula:

If, in accordance with the project, it is necessary to lay a frieze and a trim around the perimeter (a wall section of the main or complementary tiles), then the overall pattern must be designed in such a way that the border strip is laid from whole elements, and full-length or cut tiles can be used on the trim border.

The floor is made of tiles with a border frieze.

When buying ceramic tiles, be sure to take a small supply, that is, you need about 10-15% more than required. Partial finishing material will be scrapped, possibly destroyed, or will be useful in the future for repairing damaged elements.

Styling techniques

In what cases are tiles laid with a gap or seamless method, with a straight or zigzag seam? It depends not on your desire, but on the characteristics of the flooring material. Firstly, the monolithic canvas, of course, looks beautiful, but it is made only from rectified porcelain stoneware. That is, the most stable and resistant to temperature changes cladding with edges processed on special machines. It is very difficult to lay this material yourself without solid work experience.

Secondly, almost all ceramic flooring products must be installed with a gap. The larger the size of the products, as well as the load, the wider the seam should be, otherwise in the future various defects (cracks, etc.) will appear due to seasonal deformations. Recommended values:

• For tiles of caliber from 5x5 to 30x30 cm - 1-1.5 mm;
• For ceramics with dimensions from 30x30 to 60x60 cm - 2-5 mm;
• For large format products from 60x60 cm and more - 5-10 mm.

Tile joints: zero, narrow and wide.

The choice of seam option - straight or curved - also depends on the shape of the tiles and design features. Some collections involve laying a base with inserts, joining a pattern in a certain order, etc. Similar information is available on the box.

So, we have come to the finish line. The cladding has been selected, the layout option has been approved, and you can proceed to the last stage - selecting the quality of the flooring material. Please note the following when purchasing:

1. High-grade tiles must have the same thickness, width and length (maximum deviations, as a rule, do not exceed 0.5 mm), as well as the same shade, without streaks, stripes, foreign inclusions, stains, chips, small cracks, scratches, unevenness and other drawing defects.
2. The glaze should be uniform, without drips or sagging, the surface should be as smooth as possible with a minimum of negative (concave) or positive (convex) deviations from the plane, and the side edges should be free of burrs, irregularities, and chips. This is easy to check - connect two tiles together at the ends and front sides, and carefully inspect. Any deviations negatively affect the evenness and aesthetics of the future floor.
3. The purchased set must be from the same batch and the same tone, which guarantees the absolute identity of all elements in color, size and other parameters. This information is indicated on the box.
4. Tiles should be cleaned of packaging and paraffin or wax protective coatings, which are applied to the surface of some collections to protect against scratches during transportation.

Tools and materials

To install the tiles yourself, prepare the necessary kit.

Including tools:

• tape measure and metal ruler;
• rack and moisture meter;
• level and square;
• marker for applying markings to facing elements (main and complementary tiles, decors, borders, etc.);
• marking dye cord;
• an electric tile cutter or a manual tile cutter, special ceramic saws for forming shaped cutouts, or a drill with cup attachments for drilling round holes for pipes;
• a plastic bucket and a construction mixer for mixing glue;
• trowel and notched trowel for applying the solution. The choice of the number of the last tool depends on the dimensions of the tile, and the larger the facing element, the larger the size of the trowel teeth;
• pliers;
• mallet and spatula for grouting;
• sandpaper for processing tile cuts;
• assembly gloves and knee pads;
• a bucket, sponge and soft cloth to remove excess adhesive.

Materials you will need:

• Ceramic tiles with a full set of shaped elements;
• The adhesive mixture is cement or polymer, corresponding to the specifics of the base (mineral screed, wood, plywood, etc.), as well as the operating conditions of the cladding. That is, it allows you to lay tiles on the floor in a heated or unheated space, on a heated base, in showers or swimming pools;
• Primer emulsion;
• Waterproofing of a suitable type (in wet areas);
• Cement or polymer grout and water-repellent impregnation for seams;
• Silicone sealant. It will be needed to process joints, internal and external corners;
• Crosses for tile joints or tile leveling system (SVP).

Because for interior work Mostly non-frost-resistant ceramics are used; manufacturers recommend installation at a room temperature of at least +5 °C and no more than +30 °C with a humidity of 40-60%. Exterior finishing, including cladding of facades and steps, is carried out only in the warm season.

Step by step instructions

The service life and ease of use of floor ceramics depend on the quality of installation work. This axiom, unfortunately, is often neglected, and the result is a fragile, unaesthetic or defective coating. Therefore, we recommend that you follow all the rules, from preparing the base to the curing period of the grout.

The process can be divided into 6 stages:

Preparing the base

The quality of the subfloor should ensure the possibility of creating a layer under a tile covering made of adhesive cement mortar with a thickness of 2-15 mm, and under a mosaic – up to 20 mm. Therefore, the following actions are necessary:

There must be a basis;

Before the start of work, pipelines and other types of communications laid in the ceilings must have outlets in accordance with the design of the room. Don’t forget that large areas require uniform expansion joints to compensate for thermal and hygroscopic deformations of the base. When laying tiles on concrete or mineral screed indoors, it is recommended to install thermal gaps every 20-25 m² of area, for external cladding - 16 m².

In small rooms, the role of temperature-shrinkage seams is played by a gap of 4-5 mm wide around the perimeter between ceramic coating and walls.

Let us remind you once again that the floor must be monolithic. Many craftsmen believe that unevenness can be easily leveled out with tile adhesive - the layer will be thicker than expected. However, they forget that the cement-polymer mortar shrinks, so a perfectly even coating will not work. All recesses, cracks and bumps larger than 5 mm must be eliminated - filled with repair mixtures or chipped away, and dust and debris removed. Treat the surface with primers with the required properties - strengthening, adhesive, etc.

Applying a primer to a concrete base.

If you are thinking of laying tiles in a shower, bathroom or toilet, pay special attention to waterproofing. To create a reliable water barrier, you can use polymer paints, penetrating coatings, impregnations, membranes or any other material available to you. The main thing is to form a layer correctly, extending it onto the walls 10-15 cm in height and carefully sealing the corners.

Marking

When marking, the center lines of the room serve as the basis. Connect the midpoints of the closer walls to obtain the longitudinal axis, and the center points of the farther ones to calculate the transverse line. Make marks on the walls for the level of the future finished floor. This will help correct minor flaws during the tile laying process. It is better to apply the marking drawing with an alcohol marker or using a paint cord.

First, check the correct geometry of the room. This will allow you to adjust the plan for tiling the floor with ceramic tiles and significantly speed up the work.

To make sure that the walls are mutually perpendicular, pull two cords diagonally from opposite corners and measure their length with a tape measure. If the angles do not correspond to the ideal 90°, and the sides have different lengths, then you can use various tricks to visually level the effect. For example, move the pattern or lay friezes around the perimeter, and between it and the wall - background tiles with trim.

The principle of marking formation depends on the chosen design.

Standard seam-to-seam or corner installation

If the room has an even rectangular shape, then installation begins from the corner. The first element is mounted in the corner of the room, the rest - in different directions from it.

Corner laying pattern.

In a run-up or with a shift

For tiles produced in the form of elongated planks, it is incorrect to use the simple corner method. Installation should be done from the center of the room. The method is quite labor-intensive and requires care and precision in work.

First, the reference point (central) is calculated, the first row is laid from it, then subsequent lines are formed as shown in the figure below.

Laying pattern with offset or from the center.

Scheme of laying tiles of different calibers from the center.

The displacement coefficient of each subsequent row relative to the previous one depends on your desire - by 1/2, 1/3 or more. Since this is not a laminate or parquet board, no stitching is required here. It's more likely decorative effect, allowing you to create a deck flooring, brick or typical for laminate.

Along two perpendicular rows

To lay tiles in a room with irregular wall geometry (including various projections, bay windows, etc.), this method is used. We mark the center of the room and install the first element from it. In relation to this cladding, we draw two perpendicular central lines, along which we lay the floor covering up to the wall. From the finished rows we lay the remaining ceramics. This is very convenient for creating panels and various decorative or accent inserts.

Diagonally

In addition to the finished center lines, you also need to draw diagonal ones from opposite corners. The layout is carried out either from the center or from the far corner of the room. The pattern can be anything.

Scheme of diagonal tile laying.

After necessary marking lines applied, place the ceramics on a dry floor surface. This is necessary for an accurate fit. general scheme laying out, as well as cutting edge tiles or shaped elements with a tile cutter (including for forming shaped cutouts for various plumbing fixtures, water supply pipes and other communications).

Instructional and technological map for facing works, developed back in 1973 and updated in 2003 by the Design and Technological Institute of Industrial Construction, recommends craftsmen to make landmarks for themselves over large areas: either from a mooring cord stretched between the extreme support points (for example, along a long wall or diagonally ) or install so-called lighthouse tiles. These are single ceramic elements or a series of claddings laid along an extended surface, which allow you to control the level of finish and the correct formation of the stripes.

Preparing the adhesive mixture

The solution must be perfectly homogeneous and fluid enough so that it can be easily applied to the surface and distributed. The dry mixture is mixed with water in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer, thoroughly mixed with a mixer until a homogeneous mass without lumps is formed. Remember that ready-made glue can be used for a certain time (20-60 minutes), so for large laying areas it is better to prepare the solution in portions.

Elastic polymer mixtures for ceramics come in one- and two-component types. They should be mixed thoroughly before use and should be applied with a notched trowel.

Installation of the cladding begins from a reference point located in the corner farthest from the entrance, or from the center of the room. It is recommended to finish the floor in strips or small squares, gradually moving towards the doorway. If the design assumes the presence of a frieze and panels, then installation should begin with decorative elements.

Laying from the corner and from the center of the room.

Some types of tiles with a highly porous structure are recommended to be soaked before use. This is done so that the ceramics do not “pull” moisture from the solution before it polymerizes. But most of the products on the market do not require such an operation, so before starting work, carefully study the information on the packaging.

If you are laying floor finishing material with a thickness of more than 12 mm or with a side of more than 50 cm, then carefully follow the manufacturers’ recommendations. The adhesive solution must be applied not only to the base, but also to the back surface of the tile with pre-wetting.

Can't be stacked ceramic cladding on the floor with the heating switched on or with the room heating system running. It should be turned on only after the adhesive solution has completely “set.”

Apply the adhesive mixture to the base with a spatula with an average thickness of 2-5 mm (polymer - in a layer of 2-3 mm) and spread over a surface of 1 m² or in an amount covering one row. Next, lay out the tiles in accordance with the chosen pattern, align them, lightly tap them with a mallet or press them down with your fingers. Clean the seams from excess glue and insert spacer crosses or SVP. Next, apply glue to the surface as needed and install the cladding, periodically checking the evenness with a hydraulic level, as well as the geometric correctness of the installation - horizontal, pattern, installation pattern.

Applying adhesive mixture to the floor and installing tiles.

If required according to the plan, at the end mount a wall plinth from border elements or cut tiles of the main background using dividing crosses.

Grouting joints

Filling gaps can only be done after the covering has been completely laid and the adhesive has hardened. As a rule, 24 hours is enough.

Mix dry cement grout with water in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, apply with a spatula and fill all joints without exception. After 15-30 minutes, remove the remaining color mixture with a damp sponge. After an hour, wash the surface again with a wet cloth, and the next day treat the seams with water-repellent impregnations.

Cleaning the coating

After completion of the troweling work, the ceramic-lined floor has a whitish coating that must be removed with a special solution. detergents for acid-based ceramics (Pramol Ceracid, Pufas Glutoclean acidic, Italon A-CID), then rinse clean water until all foreign liquids and dirt are completely removed. In the future, it is recommended to use neutral detergents or a weak soap solution, and to remove stains or heavy dirt, purchase professional concentrates that do not damage the surface and do not leave streaks (Litokol Colored Stain Remover, Bellinzoni Mangia Macchia, etc.).

Do not use abrasive cleaners, which may cause scratches, especially on polished, lapped or high-gloss ceramic surfaces.

The finished coating can be loaded with furniture and other household items within 48-72 hours.

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Laying tiles on the floor is an extremely popular solution for decorating many rooms. However, not everyone knows that it is possible to lay tiles different ways, and in the process of working with for different reasons certain nuances need to be taken into account. Let's look at how to lay tiles on the floor: laying methods, technology features and the specifics of choosing a suitable material.

Many owners devote a lot of time and attention to choosing the appropriate finishing material, focusing on its color, texture and size. Of course, it is extremely important to choose a tile of the appropriate size so that it is commensurate with the room, but the issue of choosing the installation method should also not be left aside. Let's consider all the popular options.

Traditional method of laying tiles on the floor: rules and features

The traditional method got its name because it is used many times more often than all others. This popularity is due to the ease of installation, as well as the ability to use both square and rectangular shape. In this case, the elements are laid in even rows parallel to the floor. In this case, it is extremely important to place them as closely as possible to each other and maintain an even arrangement of rows.

Helpful advice! To give the traditional installation method an unusual look, you can use multi-colored tiles. This option will make the coating original, but at the same time will allow you to maintain a high speed of all necessary work.

Despite all its simplicity, this method, like others, has certain nuances that need to be taken into account even before installation work begins:

• all defects, unevenness and other manufacturing defects will be very noticeable if the tiles are laid in this way. Therefore, you need to either carefully examine each element and eliminate the unsuitable ones, or choose another, less demanding method;
• If the cladding is made of tiles of the same color, then the coating will look rather monotonous. This is not to say that this is a disadvantage, but it is worth considering;
• This option is only good for seamless ceramic tiles.

Although laying tiles on the floor in the traditional way can be done independently and in the absence of special skills, you will still have to pay attention to the issue of uniformity of the masonry, as well as the size of the seams (both vertical and horizontal).

How to lay tiles diagonally: the most beautiful way of laying

Laying tiles on the floor diagonally can rightfully be called the most beautiful of all options. But at the same time, the technology for laying it is the most complex, although at first glance it may seem that the basis is a simple traditional method. The main difficulty in this case is that it is necessary to accurately mark the diagonal axes, which will serve as guidelines for laying out the tiles.

Moreover, cutting the tiles correctly will require a lot of time and effort, which also presents additional difficulties in the process of laying tiles using this method. However, thanks to this method, it is possible to hide almost any surface unevenness. This option looks especially good when tiling the floors of small rooms.

Important! During installation, the pattern grid must be positioned at an angle of 45 degrees, so only square-shaped tiles are suitable for this method. This must be taken into account before you lay tiles in the bathroom using this method.

It is interesting that the design itself is quite self-sufficient, and even if a plain tile is used, it always looks extremely interesting. But before you lay tiles in this way, you need to understand that the process always results in a lot of scraps. And this may not please the thrifty owner who does not want to overpay for beauty, but if we are talking about the need to visually expand the room or hide unevenness, then this method is undoubtedly the best.

As already mentioned, the main difficulty of this method is carrying out calculations of the diagonal scheme. In addition, you need to thoroughly prepare the surface by removing the old coating, removing any remaining paint and priming the base before laying the tiles. This way you can position the tiles as evenly as possible, using less adhesive solution.

The first row is laid in the traditional way and rectangular tiles are used for this. In this case, the length of its diagonal should correspond to the diagonal of the square tiles that will be used as the main ones. The second row is laid using pre-prepared tile triangles. Then everything is quite simple - the rows are laid according to the principle of diagonal layout in horizontal rows.

Technology of laying tiles on the floor with an offset (in a running motion)

Perhaps most of all this method resembles brickwork. This solution looks original and is used quite often. In this case, a plain rectangular tile will look best, although you can often see the use of square tiles.

If, when choosing how to lay tiles in the bathroom, you preferred this option, then with its help you can solve two more additional problems– hide minor defects and also make the floor design interesting and original. And when correct selection color scheme, tiles laid in staggered patterns can give the room a special atmosphere. According to the recommendations of experts, this method is best suited for decorating rooms such as a kitchen or corridor.

As for the features of the technology for laying tiles on the floor, it is important to know that the tiles must be laid in horizontal rows, and each element of the next row must be positioned so that its middle coincides with the seam of the previous row.

Important! It cannot be said that the installation procedure itself is in any way significantly different from the traditional one, however, there is one feature - the thickness of all seams must be the same.

As an unusual solution, we can consider examples when offset laying is done diagonally, that is, at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the wall. But in this case, it is extremely important to ensure that the surface is prepared in advance and is as smooth as possible. Otherwise, the desired effect will not be achieved.

You need to start laying by placing the lighthouse slabs in the corners of the room. This way it will be possible to determine the floor level and correct existing defects. After this, the screed is moistened with water and proceed directly to laying the tiles using a solution. They do this in rows and along the lighthouse.

Then the masonry is leveled with a hammer, and the lighthouse slabs are removed. After complete drying, which can take from two to three days, the seams are filled with liquid mortar or cement.

How to lay tiles on the floor in a herringbone pattern: options and technology

The herringbone flooring method is most often used for parquet. This option looks very unusual, especially if you use tiles rather than oblong wooden elements. Naturally, only rectangular tiles are suitable for this purpose.

There are two options for laying tiles in a herringbone pattern:

• simple, which is no different from how it is done in the case of laying parquet;
• with an attachment, for which tile inserts are additionally used small size. Often they use elements of a different color or mosaic.

Saying that this method was originally intended for laying parquet, we can conclude that such a coating will look best if its surface imitates wood. But for tiles that look like stone, this option is not very suitable, as it ends up looking rather unnatural.

An example of successful use of the ceramic herringbone laying method

In order to obtain the desired result and lay the tiles in a herringbone pattern, it is necessary to rotate the elements to the right or left during the installation process, depending on the diagonal arrangement of the tiles. The amount of waste in this case will be minimal, in visual effect amazing.

How to lay tiles on the floor correctly: modular installation

Modular installation is an excellent solution for those who are new to working with tiles. At the same time, the method allows you to decorate the surface as the owner wishes. You just need to think about how to lay tiles on the bathroom floor, design a suitable pattern and carry out some necessary calculations.

A modular pattern will be an excellent solution for small rooms, especially since you can choose the appropriate color and pattern yourself, taking into account the features of the interior. It is advisable to make as accurate a drawing as possible, which includes an indication of the dimensions of the tiles, as well as the location of the seams.

Helpful advice! If you don’t want to develop the project yourself, you can purchase a ready-made tile set and a diagram that demonstrates in detail how to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.

The simplest solution is to use a modular effect, when on one large tile depicts many small elements of various formats. In this case, the main thing is to follow the principle of the model grid - the same pattern should be repeated many times. Taking this into account, you can decide for yourself how to lay out the tiles in the bathroom in a beautiful and original way.

How to lay tiles on the floor in an original way: the “labyrinth” method

The “labyrinth” method, or as it is also called “braid,” can be performed in various ways, but in the end it always gives the impression of stripes intertwined with each other, inside of which there is a square of a different color or shade.

In order to lay out the intertwining stripes of the pattern, you need to use rectangular tiles, and for the inside, smaller square elements.

Helpful advice! In order not to make a mistake with the size of the tile when purchasing, it is best to immediately fold one of the elements of the design in the store. This way you can make sure that all the elements match each other and will look good together.

This method looks decent in any room, but if we are talking about laying tiles on the bathroom floor, then this option can be called ideal. Even if the room area is small and there is no window, a correctly selected shade of yellow in combination with such a pattern can create a lighting effect and make the bathroom brighter and more comfortable.

Related article:

Stages of preparation and laying of tiles. Complexities and features of the process. Creating a base and screed. Insulation and waterproofing of the coating.

You can also consider how to lay porcelain tiles on the floor. Using this material, this design also looks very attractive.

Laying tiles on the “Deck” floor: technology and features

The “Deck” method is unfairly used in flooring not as often as others. Indeed, in fact, this method of laying the covering perfectly imitates deck boards, which brings a certain mood to the interior. In this case, the tiles are laid offset and it is extremely important that the distance is the same across the entire floor plane without exception.

You will notice that this method is somewhat similar to brickwork. This is true, except for the fact that the displacement of elements should not be done by half of each tile, but only by a small segment of it.

It is worth paying attention to the choice of color and structure of the coating. By giving preference to tiles that imitate wood and do not have an unglazed coating, you can create a very convincing semblance of a wooden floor.

Imitation tiles natural wood often used when laying using the “Deck” method

How to lay floor tiles using the "Carpet" method

“Carpet” is one of the most sophisticated options for laying tiles on the floor, which provides the opportunity to decorate the room in accordance with the interior theme, as well as your own preferences. The essence of this method is that two, three or more colors of tiles are used, as well as a border that frames this pattern around the perimeter.

How complex and beautiful a “carpet” you can create depends solely on your imagination, as well as your skills in working with tools and materials. It is best to use this method on a fairly large area of ​​the room, for example, in a hall or a large bathroom.

How to lay ceramic floor tiles using the Kaleidoscope method

One of the most unusual ways, how to lay tiles in the kitchen - “Kaleidoscope”. Just like the previous option, it allows you to independently come up with a pattern that will decorate the room. But here it is extremely important to strictly adhere to the plan, since it is very easy to get confused in the elements. It is best to pre-mark the floor surface accordingly, thus making your work easier.

When using the Kaleidostop method, you can use multi-colored tiles with different patterns

Important! Another difficulty with this method is the need to prepare a perfectly level base in advance, since all the unevenness will be very noticeable.

As you can see, laying out floor tiles is an art that will take time and attention to detail to understand. So it’s worth considering all the existing options, and having decided on your own capabilities and preferences, begin implementing the chosen method of laying floor tiles.

Before moving on to considering the features of laying tiles on various substrates, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the recommendations provided by experts. According to statements, by taking these simple tips into account, you can significantly extend the life of the coating, making it as durable and reliable as possible:

• Preparation level base– the main problem to be solved;
• the prepared surface must be vacuumed again immediately before installation;
• the adhesive composition that will be used to fix the tiles must be selected taking into account the level of humidity in the room in which you will be working;

Before you should take care of the quality of the base

• for any method that is more complex than traditional or diagonal, it is advisable to mark the floor;
• for complex patterns, the tiles must be cut in advance and then laid out on the floor surface covered with fabric to see the result before starting to apply the solution;
• at in a simple way When laying, you can start from the corner, but in the case of most complex patterns you need to find and mark the center of the room;
• liquid means for pre-treatment of the base - ideal to provide the tiles with a more reliable fixation;
• before proceeding to laying the tiles, you need to wait until the impregnation has completely dried;
• grouting of the floor tiles can be started no earlier than the period indicated on the packaging has passed for the adhesive to completely dry;
• The color should match or be combined with the color of the tiles to create a single, beautiful flooring.

Basics of choosing and laying tiles in accordance with the interior of the room

Choose the most suitable option tiled coating can be done by looking at several examples of finished interiors using this material. It is important to understand that in residential premises, tiles are almost always combined with a heating system, since otherwise, walking on the floor in the cold season will be quite uncomfortable. You need to read and watch additional instructional videos about how to properly lay tiles in a bathroom that has a heated floor system.

If we are talking about laying floor tiles in the living room, then the ideal option may be a coating that looks like laminate. This is a suitable option for a modern interior that will harmoniously fit into a room of any size. IN large rooms It is better to give preference to calm, monochromatic colors that will not make the floor too colorful and tiring to look at.

If you need to lay tiles on the floor of a bathtub, then due to the small area it is permissible to use brighter and more original colors. Do not forget that the chosen color and texture of the coating can influence the perception of space. For example, a glossy surface of a light shade will expand the room, while a dark one matte tiles will have the opposite effect.

Before laying tiles in the kitchen, you should make sure that the chosen material is not too easily soiled. In addition, you should not purchase slippery tiles, since in the kitchen the flooring is constantly exposed to contact with water, which can lead to dangerous situations.

How to lay tiles on the floor correctly: features of working with different surfaces

Having familiarized yourself with the various methods of laying floor tiles and choosing the most suitable option for yourself, you can safely move on to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the installation procedure. Considering the considerable cost of laying tiles per square meter, many want to refuse the services of a specialist and do everything necessary themselves. To do this, first of all, you need to stock up on tools that may be required during the work process:

• building level;
• hammer;
• glass cutter, or grinder;
• wire cutters;
• roulette;
• notched spatula;
• a simple pencil;
• sponge and clean rags.

Helpful advice! It is worth taking care in advance of the availability of personal protective equipment and purchasing, at a minimum, safety glasses that will protect your eyes from dust particles generated during the cutting of tiles.

If during the installation process there is a need for shaped cutting, for example, to bypass a riser or heating pipe, then a tapped drill made of hard alloy, as well as a string with an abrasive coating, are used for this.

Also, in addition to the tiles, you need to purchase special crosses that are used as dividers, an adhesive mixture for tiles, grout, as well as sealant and silicone sealant. All this will allow you to lay the tiles on the floor with your own hands.

How to properly lay tiles on a concrete floor: features of preparing the base

The first point of preparatory work that needs to be carried out before laying floor tiles is dismantling the old coating and cleaning the surface of all existing stains: oil, paint, grease, etc. Then the existing base is checked using a building level, as well as a visual assessments: if there is significant damage, potholes, cracks or deviations in height, then a new cement-sand screed must be made.

It is important that before gluing the tiles to the floor, the surface is hard and as smooth as possible. Otherwise, you will have to spend more glue on installation, and tiles laid on a soft base are much more susceptible to damage as a result of stress: cracks, chips, and simply falling off.

After you are convinced of the quality of the old screed or have made a new one, you should take care of laying a layer of heat-insulating material. This will reduce heat loss and reduce the consumption of resources spent on heating. Another option is to install a heating system, which is the best solution possible.

In the second case, the thickness of the screed should be at least 40 mm, and to further strengthen the base, it is worth using a reinforcing mesh.

If the concrete base is in acceptable condition or for some reason it is impossible to make a new screed before laying the tiles in the bathroom, and you have to work with what you have, then all the depressions can be smoothed out with cement mortar. But for protrusions, it is best to use a chisel, with which you can relatively easily knock off interfering parts of the coating.

You can also use a grinder for leveling. And in order to ensure reliable adhesion of the base to the adhesive composition, it is worth first applying a layer of primer.

All these preparation methods are relevant for concrete structures or monolithic slabs. But laying tiles on a wooden floor is also possible. Let's look at how to install it in this case.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor: surface preparation features

The same requirements apply to the wooden base on which the tiles are planned to be laid as in the case of concrete. First of all, the surface must be smooth and durable. The presence of old, worn or rotten boards is unacceptable, since it can lead to the fact that the tile covering will simply fail at some point as a result of the destruction of the base. Therefore, all imperfect boards must be replaced.

Helpful advice! If a board that seems good at first glance begins to “play” as a result of the load, then this defect can be eliminated by laying additional lags under it. Although in some cases, simply replacing the fastening elements (nails or screws) with new ones helps. In any case, it is imperative to carry out an appropriate check before laying tiles on a wooden floor.

Another way to install a durable and reliable basis for laying tiles in the case of working with a wooden floor, it is necessary to use sheets of chipboard, OSB or plywood. In this case, it is very important that the material is resistant to moisture.

When laying such an additional layer, it is necessary to leave gaps of approximately 5-8 mm between the sheets to give the material the opportunity to compensate for changes in air humidity without deforming the surface. The laid sheets are attached to the base using self-tapping screws and are opened with a layer of primer before laying the tiles on the wooden floor.

Considering the fact that the ceramic coating does not allow air to pass through and does not allow air to penetrate to the base, it is worth taking care of the presence internal ventilation so that an environment favorable for the growth and reproduction of harmful microorganisms is not created inside. Thus, laying tiles on a wooden floor is quite possible. The main thing is to pay due attention to the issue of preparing the base, and before laying tiles on a wooden floor, treat it with special protective agents.

How to choose the right adhesive for laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

Regardless of the type of base, the installation technique is always the same. But the choice of a suitable adhesive composition should be approached with special attention, since depending on the surface on which it will be applied, its composition should differ. For concrete floors, a cement-based adhesive should be used. In order to prepare it, you must add the amount of water specified by the manufacturer to the finished dry mixture.

A completely different glue is used when working with wooden base. In this case, the adhesive solution has the consistency of mastic, which, among other things, can provide compensation for deformations that occur as a result of changes in air humidity in the room.

It should be applied using a notched trowel to the back side of the facing material. In this case, grooves should form on the surface. Then the tile is pressed to the floor surface and gently tapped using a rubber hammer. You can learn more about how to glue tiles in the bathroom using one or another method of preparing the mixture from the photo or video instructions.

Rules for cutting and calculating floor tiles

It is almost impossible to lay tiles on the floor in such a way as to avoid cutting and adjusting the material. One way or another, the material has to be adjusted to the required size at the edges of the room or in places where heating or water pipes are located. Special attention It is worth paying attention to how to lay tiles in the toilet, because in this case even more complex cutting of the tiles will be required.

It is not always possible to use a regular glass cutter for fitting, since manufacturers usually use stronger material to make floor tiles than for wall tiles. Additionally, floor tiles are thicker, making them even more difficult to cut properly.

In this case, it is best to use a grinder, which allows for figured cutting, albeit with an uneven edge. All imperfections caused by such pruning can be eliminated using special tongs (nippers) manually.

Most convenient option cutting tiles - using a tile cutter, since with its help all procedures can be carried out as quickly and firmly as possible, and the edges are smooth.

Important! Despite all the positive characteristics of a tool such as a tile cutter, it is impossible to cut a thin strip (less than 10 cm) with it. In this case, it is better to do it manually using wire cutters.

It is very important not to forget about personal protective equipment, which must be present when cutting tiles. Sharp pieces that fly apart in one way or another can cause serious injury. Therefore, it is important to protect your eyes (or better yet, your entire face) and wear thick clothing that can provide protection.

After all the necessary tile elements have been cut and laid using an adhesive composition, all that remains is to wait for it to dry and rub the seams. How exactly this procedure is carried out should be considered separately in order to take into account all the subtleties and nuances. After all, it is the final stage that will determine how long the coating will ultimately last and how hygienic its use will be.

Grouting tile joints on the floor: what is it for?

In order to pay due attention to grouting the joints between tiles, it is necessary to understand how significant a role this process plays in the matter of its further operation. First of all, it is worth noting that the seams are the gap that remains between the elements after they are laid.

There are certain norms and rules that indicate the main guidelines that you need to rely on in the process of work. So, the basic rule is that the wider the tile, the larger the seam should be. Typically it ranges from 2 to 5 mm.

The need for grouting is due to several reasons:

• over time, walls undergo natural shrinkage, so some free space will be needed so that the tiles can move without damaging the surface;
• thanks to the presence of cracks in the dense cladding, the walls “breathe”;
• usage special staff for grouting, it helps prevent the penetration of moisture, and therefore the development of mold, fungi and simply the accumulation of dirt in the cracks;
• due to the presence of grout, adhesion between individual fragments of the cladding is improved;
• grout has a significant decorative role. Properly and neatly designed seams can mask minor tile defects, such as nicks and chips. In addition, using grout you can hide the remaining mortar.

Thus, the service life of the floor covering, as well as how attractive its appearance will be, depends on compliance with the technology for using grout. That is why it is worth taking a closer look at what principle should be used to select the mixture and how to carry out all the necessary work yourself.

How to choose the right grout mixture

In order to avoid any problems during the grouting process, it is necessary from the very beginning to select a mixture that is ideal in all respects. This seemingly insignificant nuance plays an important role, so it is worth paying attention to the following aspects:

The color of the grout is the main criterion that most people pay attention to first. The color of the grout can have both a positive and negative effect on appearance entire coverage. A universal option that is almost always appropriate is white. But in combination with colored tiles, it will not give the feeling of a single canvas. For this. You can choose a grout shade that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. Contrasting colors are used less often, since choosing the right combination can be very difficult.

Helpful advice! To get the grout of the desired shade, you can simply add the required amount of color to the base white mixture.

The composition and properties of the grout also play an important role. Depending on what components are included in the mixture, and this can be alabaster, gypsum, epoxy resins, Portland cements and others, the characteristics will also be different. Here you need to navigate by what conditions the material will have to face.

So, for rooms with high humidity, for example, if we are talking about a bathroom, you need to choose formulations that include water-repellent components. If the surface is subject to serious loads, then you should pay attention to the wear resistance of the composition. The best solution is an epoxy mixture.

The composition of the grout will differ depending on the surface for which it is intended. For example, when it comes to tiling a wall surface, ordinary grout is used, which can wear out over time under significant loads. For flooring, it is worth purchasing a more tenacious mixture, designed for constant contact with shoes, pieces of furniture, etc. The main thing is that the structure of the grout is not loose.

Technology for preparing grout for floor tile joints

Today, many different manufacturers are engaged in the production and sale of high-quality grout. Such a wide range allows you to choose the most suitable option for a given situation. You can find two types of grout for joints on sale: dry powder and ready-to-apply mass.

In the first case, the main difficulty is diluting the required amount of the mixture, since it can be difficult to understand exactly how much may be needed. That's why the best option– dilute the powder little by little, gradually using it as needed. Typically, manufacturers indicate on the packaging as accurately as possible how much water needs to be added to obtain the desired consistency, but you can adjust this yourself, determining by eye whether the result is satisfactory for you.

The second option is a mass that is completely ready for use. It can usually be purchased in jars or small buckets. The main advantage of this solution is the absence of the need to tinker with breeding yourself and the ability to carry out all the necessary work as quickly as possible.

The disadvantages of the finished mass primarily include short term storage For this reason, leftovers that are not used will likely have to be thrown away. Taking this into account, we can conclude that diluting grout yourself from a dry mixture is more profitable.

If you want to save money on purchasing grout, you can consider the option homemade. To do this, you can use alabaster diluted with water to the consistency of a plastic mass. The main disadvantage of this option is its short service life, since usually such grout crumbles quite heavily. You can add gypsum mixture to strengthen it, but this will only improve the situation slightly.

How to grout seams on tiles: technique for applying the mixture

In order to apply the finished grout to the seams and bring it all into proper form, you will need a container into which the solution will be poured, a brush, a construction mixer, as well as a foam sponge and a small rubber spatula. It is best to dilute the grout gradually, in small portions and in a small container.

Helpful advice! Using a mixer is only justified if you have to work with a large area. In all other cases, to obtain the desired consistency of the mixture, it will be enough to stir it for some time with a spatula.

The grout application procedure is as follows:

1. The tile seams that are to be worked with must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, dust, and fungus. A special tool is provided for this.
2. Using a brush previously soaked in water, the seams are soaked to improve the quality of adhesion between the materials.
3. Then you need to dilute a small amount of grout in the prepared container.
4. Using a rubber spatula, apply the elastic mixture to the seam so that the gap is completely filled. In this case, additional compaction is necessary to avoid the formation of voids.
5. All excess that gets on the tile can be easily removed using the same spatula.
6. To prevent cracks from appearing in the future, at this stage the grout in the joints must be moistened with water.

Important! To ensure maximum protection from the effects of water and the formation of fungus on the surface, it is recommended to additionally treat the areas where the baseboard will be laid with a sealant.

You need to understand that the procedure for grouting joints on the floor and walls is somewhat different. And if in the case of wall coverings the seams should be sealed in the direction from top to bottom, then for floor coverings the rule applies - from the far corner to the exit. Before starting work, watching a training video can be extremely useful. In this case, the grouting of floor tiles will certainly be done better.

In order for the grout to dry completely, you need to leave it for a day. And after that you can proceed to the final processing of the seams. To do this, special antiseptic agents are used that can prevent the appearance of fungus and mold, protecting all vulnerable areas of the coating.

One way or another, if we are talking about laying ceramic tiles on the floor, some moisture will accumulate on its surface and over time may begin to penetrate through the seams. To prevent this, use . Its application is the final stage of sealing seams, which provides the maximum level of protection.

Final cleaning of the tile surface before use

In order to start using the coating that was obtained as a result of the work, it is necessary to give it an attractive and complete appearance. The main task is to eliminate as much as possible all traces of excess mortar and putty. And since rubbing joints is usually carried out in several approaches, since the mastic tends to partially sag as a result of drying, the surface should be cleaned only at the very end.

In order to effectively clean the surface, you will need a foam sponge moistened with water. The tile needs to be wiped so that the grout that is on the surface of the tile gets a little wet. Then, using a scraper or the same spatula, you can remove all excess. All stains can be easily washed off with a damp cloth or sponge.

Helpful advice! If relief tiles have been laid, cleaning them with a sponge will be quite difficult. In this case, it is most convenient to use an old toothbrush.

It is best to clean the surface before the grout has completely dried, since after this it will become very difficult to soften it. Of course, even in this case, it is possible to completely remove the excess, but the process will take much longer and require a lot of effort.

It is necessary to scrape off completely dried putty very carefully, since it is very easy to damage the surface of the tile, especially if the surface of the tile is glossy. As for the relief surface, it will be almost impossible to remove dirt here, so you need to do this as soon as possible.

Recommendations for caring for tile flooring

It may seem that knowing how to lay tiles on a bathroom floor is all you need to achieve a beautiful, long-lasting finish. But in fact, constant care is the key to long service life of tiles.

In this case, you need to learn two fundamental rules:

1. Only regular cleaning of seams can guarantee the absence of pathogenic bacteria and fungi. At least once a month, you should clean the grout lines on your floor tiles. How exactly to do this, everyone decides for themselves: you can resort to using special detergents or soapy water, you can also use vinegar or lemon juice. Bleach is suitable for surface disinfection. In addition, a steam cleaner will do a wonderful job of cleaning.
2. If possible, you need to save the remaining grout in order to be able to carry out regular grouting, which, one way or another, will be needed. This re-grouting is done as needed if the old seams have darkened and cracked. In this case, the old putty is cleaned out, after which the seams are treated with an antiseptic and a new layer is applied. If it is also necessary to remove a layer of sealant, this can be done using a blade.

By following these simple recommendations and regularly paying attention to the condition of the tile covering, you can significantly extend its service life and keep it in its original appearance. It will also be useful to read on the Internet recommendations and user reviews on how to clean the seams between tiles on the floor. You can often find useful ideas and advice on forums.

How much does it cost to lay tiles on the floor: prices for services

If, after you are fully familiar with how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom, the task still seems too difficult to you, it may make sense to seek help from professionals. Our specialists know exactly how to properly lay tiles in a bathroom, kitchen or hallway using any method and will complete the task as quickly as possible.

So, all that remains is to find an offer at the most reasonable price. Many craftsmen offer to lay tiles on the floor, but this service should not cost less than 550-600 rubles per 1 m². Of course, there are a huge number of craftsmen whose services are much more expensive, so here the choice is entirely up to the customer.

In any case, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the pricing policy, and if such a cost seems excessive to you, then you can always read the instructions again, watch a video about laying tiles on the floor and try to do everything yourself.

Technology for laying tiles in the bathroom: video instructions

Having familiarized yourself in detail with how to lay tiles on the floor, as well as with how to properly grout the seams on the tiles, in most cases you can get to work without hesitation. However, watching a training video that demonstrates each stage of work in detail and provides useful recommendations from experts in this matter can also be very useful.

There is no need to turn to the services of expensive craftsmen to lay tiles. At the right approach and preparation, cladding costs can be minimized. Considering the average prices for laying tiles, the savings can be significant. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the rules if you plan to lay tiles with your own hands, so that the result is the most attractive, functional and durable. So, laying tiles involves the following steps:

1. surface preparation (forming screed, plastering walls);
2. marking the location of the first row and installing support stops;
3. laying the first row or several multidirectional rows according to the markings;
4. filling the entire area with solid tiles;
5. cutting and laying tiles to fill the remaining areas;
6. grouting joints (jointing).

Tools for tiling work

The tools required for surface preparation are selected depending on the required operations and technologies for performing the work. Directly for installation you will need the following:

• trowel, trowel, notched trowel, rubber spatula, small level (30-40 cm), medium level (60-80 cm), plumb line, rubber hammer, solution container. In places where whole tile does not fit, you will need to cut and cut it, for this you will need: a tile cutter (mechanical or electric), pliers or wire cutters, a large needle file or sandpaper, an angle grinder.

Calculate the amount of materials!

In order to correctly estimate the required number of tiles, you should not only measure the square footage of the surface to be covered, but also estimate the number of tiles that will need to be cut into pieces. All this depends on the complexity of the walls and floor and the presence of various obstacles in the form of pipe outlets, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately, on top of the estimated number of square meters, you should take more tiles sufficient to lay two rows along two adjacent walls.

For gluing tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesives. This is especially true for bathroom and kitchen cladding, where it is necessary to use moisture-resistant compounds. Moreover, when proper preparation surface, the solution consumption is minimal, and the cost of installation is significantly reduced.

Read more about calculating materials for tile work.

Step 1. Surface preparation

In order for the tiled surface to be perfectly smooth and durable, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface. Under no circumstances should you expect that small unevenness on the floor or wall can be covered by using more mortar under the tiles. A high-quality result can only be achieved when all the material is laid evenly on a small layer of adhesive.

Before laying tiles on the floor, a screed should be formed. In the bathroom and toilet, a layer of waterproofing is necessarily formed. Screeding can also be done using the wet method, adhering to the appropriate technologies. It is best to lay the tiles on a concrete base, that is, on wet screed. If the old coating is being replaced, then it is used and the surface is leveled with cement mortar.

In order to tile the walls, it is necessary to get rid of all the old covering and plaster the walls with obligatory reinforcement with construction mesh. It's best to do this. There is no need to use putty, nor should it be perfect smooth surface, this may impair the adhesion of the adhesive.

All skirting boards, door frames and thresholds are dismantled. The prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt and primed.

If you are confident in the reliability of the layer of old tiles or just want to save time, check out. But in any case, this practice is only suitable for notorious lazy people.

Step 2. Marking and installing supports

options for non-standard installation of floor coverings

Before laying, it is necessary to prepare markings and stops for the first row along which the tiles will be installed.

Walls

A plastic corner is fixed at the very bottom or wooden slats, on which the first row will rest. Using a plumb line, a line is drawn to control the verticality of the installation. In case of using multi-colored tiles or various types mosaic installations, it is best to mark with marks the places of installation of tiles that differ from the mass.

Floor

A line is drawn for the spaced edge of the tiles of the first row. The locations of the tiles that will differ from the main mass when the pattern is formed are marked. Laying floor tiles starts from the far corner. In this case, if necessary, you should shift the location of the first tile so that a solid fragment is laid at the entrance without the need to trim it. The calculations take into account not only the size of the tiles, but also the gap between them.

Step 3. Laying solid tiles

traditional tiling schemes

Having prepared the markings and guidelines, you can begin installation. To do this, a solution of tile adhesive is applied to the wall using a notched trowel with a thickness equal to the depth of the teeth. The tile is first leaned against a support or on the crosses below, after which you need to carefully lay the tile with your own hands on the mortar. There is no need to press it down. By slightly turning the tile along the axis with light movements, maximum adhesion of the product to the mortar is achieved.

Remember that removing the tile from the surface after laying it on the mortar will be problematic, so you should immediately position it as correctly as possible. You can only move it slightly to the sides. The correct installation should be checked using a level in all directions and in relation to the already laid rows. If it is necessary to deepen the tile a little, use a rubber hammer. There are crosses in the corners to maintain gaps. After this, you can begin further installation.

Do not press down the tile too much so that the mortar protrudes along the edges. All gaps between them should be as clean as possible. In the future, grout will be used, which will prevent moisture and dirt from getting under the tiles and will give an aesthetic appearance to the entire surface.

When your hand is already full, you can apply the solution, taking into account the laying of several tiles at a time. In this case, after distributing the mortar, the tiles are installed in their places and settled on the mortar with small circular movements. After this, the crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and, using a level, the entire laid row is pressed in various directions, adjusting it to the general level.

After completing the first row, it is best to wait for the glue underneath to set properly. After this, it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if, after laying the next row, it is decided to take a break from work, then all the mortar that is located not under the tile, but along the edges, must be removed. If this is not done and it dries out, then you will have to chip away before continuing work. frozen solution, which will affect the strength of the connection of already laid tiles. All excess mortar is also removed in places left for laying cut tiles.

Step 4. Fill in the remaining areas

Having laid out the entire space where solid tiles are used, you can begin cutting the missing pieces and installing them. You can also use a glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric tile cutter; in extreme cases, a grinder will do. In the latter option there will be a lot of dust, so it is better to do pruning outside. Tile marking is done taking into account gaps on all sides.

In order to form an uneven cut, either a manual tile cutter or an electric machine with a diamond wheel is used. More details on how to do this are written below.

Step 5. Grouting (jointing)

After completely laying the tiles on the wall or floor, you should wait until the adhesive solution dries. After this, all the crosses between the tiles are removed and the joints are jointed. To do this, you can use cement-based, silicone or epoxy grouts. First of all, you should select a suitable grout according to the color scheme of the selected coating. In terms of characteristics, they differ little from each other, except for the method of preparation and use. Cement grout is distributed dry and must be diluted with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grout are sold ready-to-use in sealed packages.

Before jointing, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and the seams between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. After this, if silicone or epoxy grout is used, the edges of the tile are additionally covered with masking tape. If this is not done, it will be difficult to remove the dried mixture from the glazed surface of the tile.

Next, using a rubber spatula, apply a small amount of grout over the seam and press it inwards. By placing a rubber spatula across the seam and pressing along it, the excess is removed. In this case, the seam deepens a little and is evened out.

Take away masking tape and the remaining grout follows after it has completely dried. Having cleaned and washed the entire tiled surface, the work can be considered complete.

Note: ceramic tiles are laid in a similar way. The differences partly relate only to the nuances in the methods of cutting tiles.

A little about cutting tiles

Almost no tiling work can be completed without the need to trim it. This can be done in a variety of ways: from a glass cutter to modern machines with a diamond cutting wheel. If a mechanical hand tool is used, the process is similar to cutting glass. In this case, the cutting wheel draws a line along the markings on the glazed side of the tile. After which scrapping is carried out. Floor tiles more massive and cannot be cut beautifully with a glass cutter. All types of tile cutters have a significantly larger cutting wheel of 1.6 cm to create a deeper cut.

For example, consider the cutting option using a mechanical tile cutter:

1. This tile cutter has a platform for placing tiles with limiters on which ruler markings are applied. This makes it easier to cut a whole row of tiles of the same size. We adjust the stops to the required distance so that the intended cutting line falls on the line in the middle of the tool.
2. At the top of the tool, a carriage runs along two guides, equipped with a cutting wheel and a folding stop, the petals of which are located at an angle to each other, as well as a lever. We move the carriage to the edge farthest from us. Place the wheel on the edge of the tile and apply pressure along its surface along the cutting line.
3. After this, the stop on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and light pressure is used to stake the tile.

The difficult part is not the straight cut or the diagonal, but the curly cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends for exiting wires, bypassing sockets or exiting water pipes. In this case, the shape of the cutout is marked on the glazed side, and the cutting wheel of a manual tile cutter is carefully drawn along the line. After this, you can bite off the unnecessary part of the tile piece by piece until only the part required in shape remains. The resulting edge will be quite uneven; to solve this problem, use a file or sandpaper.

Using electric machine the entire part that should be removed from the tile before marking is cut into thin strips and bitten off; the edge is also compared with a file.

• It’s good if the length of the row fits the tiles without the need to trim the end. If this is not the case, then the row of installation should be shifted so that the last tile is intact. If the remaining gap requires a piece of 1-2 cm, the row is further shifted so that wider pieces are placed on both edges. This will eliminate the need for labor-intensive cutting of narrow strips of tile.
• The same applies to marking the position of rows in height, especially when laying is not done to the ceiling, but to a certain level, for example, tiles are often laid in the kitchen. It is worth distributing the rows in such a way that the first bottom row is formed from pieces, and the top one from solid tiles. It is better to start laying with whole tiles, while raising the initial support bar to the required level.
• It is best to lay tiles in the corridor, starting from filling the space along the long walls, leaving a gap of one tile in the middle or at one of the edges. In this case, it is imperative to apply marking lines in order not to get lost and not make the remaining opening narrower than the tile.
• If various installation options are used in the form of a figured construction or using tiles of different colors, you should designate in advance the locations of tiles that differ in shape, direction or design. Separating individual tiles diagonally to form a pattern by spacing the joints is often used. In this case, it is better to leave the places with the installation of cut tiles for filling last.
• Be sure to read the instructions for the tile adhesive you are using. Some options involve dampening the surface of the tile before installing it on a layer of adhesive applied to the wall.

Video: laying tiles on the floor

Video: laying tiles on the wall

Saving is a philosophy, principle and engine of progress. Under economic slogans, new technologies are emerging, ingenious methods are being developed to reduce the costs of labor, money and an important factor - time. In the name of economy, the strictest requirements of building regulations are sometimes forgotten, prohibiting the gluing of floor ceramics onto a previous covering made of a similar material. However, it was she who made craftsmen think about the problem of “is it possible to lay tiles on tiles?” And since they had to “break” their heads, a solution was found - reliable way build a new covering over the laid tiled floor.

Economic prerequisites for maintaining coverage

The idea that a hard, smooth, water-impervious ceramic floor could not be dismantled before changing the coating could not but arise among prudent craftsmen, since:

• dismantling will take a lot of effort and time;
• fragments of the cement-sand screed will probably break off along with the tiles. It will need to be refilled entirely or locally. with plywood or plasterboard flooring will also become completely unusable with the consequences of a complete remodel. And the polymer preparation also needs to be renewed;
• dust will be significant. Before renovation, it will be necessary to vacate not only the premises itself, but also the adjacent rooms. Even if you cover furniture and equipment in neighboring rooms with polyethylene, it is not a fact that the dirty finish will not be damaged;
• There will be garbage removal and cleaning;
• the construction of a new screed is coming with the purchase of materials, the consumption of labor and again time waiting for the hardening of solutions or binders.

It’s no wonder that the amount of complications persistently whispered the idea of ​​refusing repairs. But if the old coating calls for alterations, means of minimizing costs had to be found. Those. get the opportunity to lay ceramic squares, hexagons and rectangles on probably not very presentable predecessors. The task was to remove purely technical obstacles that hindered the implementation of the plan.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Due to the fact that wood tends to change size due to instability of temperature and humidity, this may seem impossible. We'll tell you how to do it correctly and avoid trouble in the article: .

What are the difficulties?

There are good reasons for the slightly outdated technological decree, according to which ceramics should be unconditionally destroyed before laying a new coating:

• the rough foundation should be monolithic, and not made up of separate, insufficiently large elements;
• the rough surface must be characterized by porosity and roughness, which is required for reliable adhesion of the adhesive to it, which is not typical for ceramic products.

Solidity will not cause concern to owners of a floor with correctly laid previous tiles, which are usually quite new. If the ceramic coating with the underlying base really creates a single whole, it will adequately perform its load-bearing function. Otherwise, an excessively large load will fall on the connecting layer located between the old coating and its base. As a result, elements of both coatings will break off.

With porosity everything is more complicated. This is the main problem for those who are thinking about the question “is it possible to lay tiles on tiles?” The main advantage of building ceramics is high density with a minimum number of pores capable of absorbing moisture.

Moisture absorption or scientifically its absorption coefficient is directly related to the number of pores. At the tiles for interior decoration it varies from 0.5 to 3.0%. Moreover, in the 3% case it is supplemented with a top glaze, leaving the back side porous to optimize adhesion. But the glue needs to penetrate through the miniature channels into the body of the base, gain a foothold in it and attract the finishing coating to itself. This means that the pores just need to be opened or created, and at the same time the roughness must be increased. How?

In order to increase porosity and provide the roughness necessary for gluing, three options were invented:

• Cleaning the top layer of the supporting ceramic floor with a grinder grinder.
• Formation of notches, preferably combined with the previous product.
• Use of Concrete Contact marked CERESIT ST-19, enriched with needle quartz, or its counterpart with ordinary sand. There are analogues with the brand Knauf, Bolars, etc. After applying these priming materials, the surface acquires the required roughness, thanks to which it will be possible to use ordinary tile adhesive, such as CERESIT CM-11.

It's best if all three effective methods will be used together. Then the grip will definitely be excellent.

Even an impeccable tile installation will not look perfect if you do not pay enough attention to the tile joints at the final stage of finishing. Find out how to choose a grout for tiles and the difference between cement and epoxy options in next material: .

Contraindications to such work

Means have been invented, but their use is not always feasible, which must be taken into account at the stage of inception of the idea. The following contraindications determine whether tiles can be laid on tiles in a particular case:

• The tiles were laid with low-quality glue, as a result of which the majority of the elements came off completely or partially from the base. The same could happen due to non-compliance with the glue manufacturer's instructions or if the proportions were incorrect. To identify this reason, a kind of diagnosis is carried out using the wooden handle of any of the instruments. By simply tapping, we find out whether each tile responds equally to it. We hear a ringing, which means there is emptiness inside, there is a rattling sound - it has completely come unglued. Only a dull sound will convince of its strength and reliability.
• The floor is uneven. In general, for laying tiles, differences of 4 mm per 2 m of the lath applied to the surface are acceptable, because the primer and binder will simultaneously play the role of a leveling layer. But if there are more violations, we take a hammer drill.
• The tile is very old and covered with a network of cracks, in which, no doubt, many years of dirt, indelible grease, and fungi have accumulated.
• Utilities run under the old ceramic coating, and they forgot to build inspection hatches for them last time. We dismantle such a floor “without waiting for peritonitis,” and arrange everything according to the rules.
• Afterwards, the floor in the room being equipped will be higher than the general floor level. Such an excess is extremely undesirable, because ceramics are mainly used in bathrooms, showers, and kitchens. In short, where floors are supposed to be made lower by 3-5 cm, so that accidentally spilled water does not have the opportunity to flow freely outside the room.

If the listed obstacles are not identified, you can begin preparing the floor and the subsequent installation. Work should begin if the floor temperature is not lower than +5ºС, and the overall room temperature is not less than +10ºС.

The process of constructing tiles on top of tiles

Fundamentally, the described scheme differs from the standards only in preparation. First, according to tradition, a small plan is drawn with all design features premises. Then a fitting is carried out with the layout of the material “dry” to see how the ceramic floor will look, in order to place the cut pieces of tile in places far from view. The tiles must be laid out so that the seams of the upper elements rest on solid tiles. Those. you need to move the upper seams relative to the lower ones or try to keep the number of matches to a minimum.

• We carry out a thorough inspection with detailed tapping of the elements in the center and corners. We carefully dismantle the identified unreliable tiles using a chisel and hammer, and fill the exposed area with cement mortar. We are waiting for it to harden. The hardening time of the solution is proportional to the thickness of the cement-sand fill. 10.0 mm will cure in 1 week.
• We clean the crumbled seams with a chisel and fill them with tile adhesive or the same solution that was used to fill the areas.
• We clean the glossy surface of the tile with a grinder, choosing a grinding wheel with medium grit. It is advisable to also make notches.
• Wash thoroughly old ceramics first with just water to remove dust, then with a soap solution. If there is old dirt and greasy spots add soda to the water. Finally, rinse off several times with clean water.
• We treat the old ceramic floor with Concrete Contact Ceresit ST-19. Apply it evenly, distribute it with a brush or roller. The material is sold in finished form, packaged in 15 liter buckets. Approximately 300 grams are consumed. per m². Before applying to the floor, it is recommended to cover adjacent structures, pipes, and parts with polyethylene. Otherwise, random blots and pink smears will be difficult to remove. We wait 3-4 hours for drying. If we install the tiles with tile adhesive, there is no need to moisten them before laying.
• Apply glue at the thickness specified by the manufacturer to a small area of ​​the floor. The glue quickly loses its elasticity, so we use it to treat an area of ​​less than 1 m².
• Glue the first tile with force. Until the glue begins to set, its position can be adjusted. We arrange the elements surrounding it in the same way. Along the perimeter of each tile it is necessary to leave expansion joint for linear expansion. Its size depends on the size of the elements, usually 1-4 mm. To form the seams we use plastic crosses.
• After a day, the grooves around the tiles will need to be filled with a polymer-cement composition that matches the tone or with a solution of equal parts of sand and cement.

Tile adhesive should harden naturally without artificial heating and ventilation. There is also no need to moisten the adhesive-mounted coating after installation.

Range construction stores pleases with constantly emerging new products designed for modern home decoration. But be that as it may, ceramic tiles do not lose their popularity at all, and remain one of the most popular materials for cladding floors and walls in rooms with specific operating conditions - with high humidity, with direct contact with water on surfaces, with a pronounced abrasive load , with the need for frequent wet cleaning using detergents. According to such criteria, this includes bathrooms, toilets and kitchens, hallways and corridors, balconies and loggias, entrance groups and some utility rooms.

In a word, in any house or apartment such finishing is sure to be widely used. That’s why the question is so relevant: how difficult is it to lay ceramic tiles with your own hands? Is it worth inviting a professional, or can you do it yourself? We cannot agree with the opinion of the authors of individual articles who claim that tiling is a very simple task. Such finishing requires strict adherence to technology, knowledge of many nuances, a certain skill and increased accuracy. However, it doesn’t seem impossible either - many homeowners have successfully completed Finishing work on one's own. We hope that this article will help the portal visitor understand the basics of ceramic tile laying technology, carefully assess their capabilities and make the right decision.