All houses and apartments are equipped with special ventilation holes, the main purpose of which is to maintain normal air composition. Purpose of ventilation in the bathroom:
- maintaining normal air humidity in a room with constantly used hot water;
- removal of unpleasant odors;
- elimination of water vapor.
With insufficient ventilation, the air becomes excessively humid, which leads to the appearance of mold and the development of pathogenic bacteria harmful to humans. Therefore, having settled in new house or an apartment, Special attention needs to be given to organization high-quality ventilation in a bathroom characterized by high air humidity, since comfortable living in the apartment as a whole depends on this.
Types of ventilation systems
There are two types of ventilation systems:
A ventilation system is developed during the construction of any house. IN apartment buildings, as a rule, is used, which provides for the removal of air to the outside due to atmospheric pressure and different temperatures inside the house and outside.
It happens that existing system ventilation does not cope well with its task, then you need to think about upgrading it.
How to determine whether additional ventilation is needed in the bathroom?
Bring it to ventilation grille a burning match or lighter. Ventilation is normal if the flame reaches the grill or goes out. If it fluctuates slightly or does not fluctuate at all, you need to install forced ventilation.
There is another way: by accepting hot shower or a bathtub, look at the tiles and mirrors - if a lot of condensation has formed on the tiles, and the mirror is very foggy, the exhaust power is insufficient. If this problem is not solved, the appearance of fungus and mold, a musty smell, damage to furniture and the formation of corrosion on plumbing equipment are inevitable.
Options for solving the problem of insufficient ventilation
The problem of insufficient ventilation in the bathroom can be solved in the following ways:
- calling engineers who will calculate the aerodynamics of the apartment and recommend repair options;
- installation of a unified ventilation system;
- installing the fan on .
The first two methods are quite expensive, complex, but highly effective. If you are not ready to spend a large amount, it is possible to independently upgrade the ventilation in the bathroom.
Strengthening ventilation in the bathroom
In bathroom small size V small apartments The problem of poor air circulation can be solved by installing an exhaust fan in the opening natural ventilation. The most important thing is to choose the right device. There are several types of fans on sale:
- combined with a switch that starts working as soon as the light is turned on in the bathroom and turns off when it is turned off. Disadvantage - it only works when the light is on in the bathroom. This time is not always enough to completely clean the air;
- equipped with a timer - will work for a specified time after turning off the lights (from 2 to 30 minutes);
- independent - require the installation of a separate switch and can work at any time independently of other electrical appliances. You can set a mode in which the fan will turn on and off after a set period of time.
Which option to choose is up to you. A device with a timer will provide the most effective air purification. There are fans equipped with a humidity sensor (hygrostat) - this is especially true for the bathroom. This device will turn on when the humidity level exceeds the set value. When installing such a fan, take care to protect the wiring and the fan from splashes.
When choosing a device, also consider the size of the ventilation hole. The purchased fan along with the motor must be inserted into the hole for ventilation, then close the grille and route the wiring from the bathroom to the outside. When connecting directly to the relay, wedge the fan wiring into the circuit before the transformer that changes the voltage for low-voltage devices.
A fan equipped with a timer is connected using a four-wire cable. Connect it parallel to the lighting lamp. Run a separate wire for the phase to the timer.
Important! The wire for the phase must not be interrupted by the switch, otherwise the device will not function.
The fan will start running as soon as the light turns on. When the light is turned off, the device is powered by electricity from a separate phase. After the set time has elapsed, the fan will turn off automatically. To connect to the network of contact terminals, use a two-core cable with a diameter of 0.2 mm. Pass the phase wire through the fan, and lead the neutral wire directly to it.
Scheme for turning on a fan with light in the bathroom
This option is suitable for those who have connection experience electrical devices. If there is no such experience, it is better to install supply ventilation.
Installation of a forced ventilation system in the bathroom
To build a complex branched one you will need:
The installation diagram is as follows: a main air duct is laid under the ceiling, to which branches are connected using tees to take in exhaust air from all rooms.
Installation procedure:
- We install a fan close to a special exhaust hole punched to the street, or an vent;
- To prevent air from entering the house from the street or from a centralized exhaust hood, we install a check valve in front of the fan;
- We install and fasten air ducts. We connect all elements of the system, including individual sections of pipes, using silicone sealant. First, we assemble the main channel, install all the tees on it, and secure the channel.
- After assembling the channel, we install check valves on the side tees to prevent air from getting from one room to another.
- We extend the air duct to the location of the air intakes.
- We fix the suspended ceiling.
- We install air intakes.
Take a few tips into account:
- Before installation suspended ceiling check the operation of the ventilation system. If an exhaust fan is found to be inoperative after the ceiling has been installed, replacing it will be problematic.
- To replace the exhaust fan in the future, organize access to it, for example, an inspection hatch.
- Carefully seal the outlet hole with foam, otherwise drafts cannot be avoided.
- Keep the length of the air duct as short as possible: the longer it is, the longer the exhaust air is drawn in, the more intense the fan operation.
Attention! Exhaust ventilation should not be directed to a window, not to the attic, or inside the house, but to the outside, preferably through the roof.
Install a grate or mesh at the outlet to prevent rodents and birds from entering the system, as well as a protective canopy.
To design a high-quality ventilation system at the stage of building a house, you should turn to professionals. In addition, choose a room for the bathroom that has.
Every private residential building or apartment must be equipped with ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. These two rooms, which have sanitary and hygienic purposes, have a humid microclimate, burdened by sudden temperature changes and the presence of unpleasant odors.
Provided there are no windows and small area rooms, the air inside them stagnates, leading to wear and tear of the finish, the formation of dampness, and the spread of fungus. These problems are solved by installing ventilation equipment that will force the air to circulate. This article will tell you what a ventilation system is, what requirements are placed on it, and how to properly make it yourself.
Need for ventilation
The bathroom and toilet in every apartment are problem areas, the microclimate of which often leads to intensive wear and tear of the finishing of the premises. When taking a bath or using a shower, a large amount of hot steam, saturated with moisture, is formed inside the bathroom, which condenses on the surface of the ceiling, walls or furniture.
This situation leads to the formation high humidity inside the bathroom and toilet, which can only be eliminated by properly equipped ventilation. If the system exists and works correctly, air flows from the room are discharged to the street through a channel or shaft. The ventilation device consists of the following elements:
Note! The ventilation scheme in a bathroom or toilet can be natural or forced. If no additional devices are used to remove air, the ventilation system is called natural. It should ensure effective ventilation of the room due to draft in the duct; if this does not happen, you can install fans with your own hands, increasing the draft.
Kinds
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet can be exhaust, supply or combined. The exhaust circuit provides for the presence of a channel that removes “exhaust” air with a high moisture content to the outside. Device supply system differs in that it collects atmospheric air, which increases the pressure inside the room, displacing warm and moist steam.
The combined ventilation scheme combines air intake from the street with an exhaust ventilation duct. The standard ventilation system that apartments in standard high-rise buildings are equipped with is exhaust. It has the following varieties:
Experienced craftsmen say that no matter what room ventilation scheme is used, you need to monitor its condition. To check the efficiency, you need to do a simple test: bring a lit candle to the ventilation grille, if the flame does not deviate towards the channel, then there is no draft in the system. To increase traction, you can do forced ventilation with your own hands.
Requirements
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is a finely organized system, the operation of which determines the microclimate of these rooms. The cause of problems in the functioning of equipment most often are errors in design and installation with your own hands. Experienced technicians advise cleaning the ventilation duct before changing the system device. The following requirements apply to the ventilation design in a sanitary room:
The requirements for the bathroom ventilation system are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003. In that regulatory document the maximum content of dust, carbon dioxide and air exchange rate are described. If the air in sanitary premises does not meet the requirements, it is necessary to clean the ventilation duct and assess whether the installation of additional equipment is required.
Video instruction
Greetings. In this article we will look at options for installing a ventilation system for a bathroom. In addition, I will talk about how to build these systems with your own hands at home. The topic of the article is of considerable interest, since the bathroom is a place where warm, humid air and unpleasant odors periodically accumulate.
If you do not equip an effectively functioning ventilation system in a timely manner, staying in such a room will be uncomfortable.
Let's consider ventilation options for the bathroom and toilet. It is divided into exhaust, supply and combined. The exhaust circuit provides for the presence of a channel that removes air from the room, which contains an increased amount of moisture. The design of the supply ventilation is capable of maximizing the pressure in the room, pushing out warm and humid steam and capturing atmospheric air. Combination device allows you to combine air intake from the street and an exhaust ventilation duct. The standard ventilation scheme used to equip apartments in standard high-rise buildings is exhaust.
Ventilation schemes that will make the air in the room fresher
Warm and humid air is a favorable environment for the life of various pathogens, and primarily for mold. Excessive air humidity leads to rotting wooden parts in finishing and to the appearance of corrosion on metal parts plumbers.
The following types of ventilation systems differ according to the degree of mechanization:
- Schemes of natural passive action - air movement is carried out due to the difference in temperature and pressure inside and outside the room;
- Forced action schemes are based on the use of electrical appliances that transport air.
According to the principle of operation, bathroom ventilation systems are divided into the following modifications:
- Exhaust circuit
The simplest in terms of implementation, but not the most effective solution. This scheme works by removing exhaust air through a window or vent. The problem is that without replacing a portion of new air, the exhaust air can be removed warm air outside is obtained in small volumes.
- Supply and exhaust circuit
In this scheme, cold air is simultaneously supplied, for example, from under a door, and exhaust air is proportionally removed through an vent.
This scheme is preferable as it allows for intensive air exchange. But the design of supply and exhaust systems requires special requirements, since errors lead to drafts.
- Forced exhaust circuit
A common option is an vent in the toilet or bathroom with a built-in fan. The efficiency of the scheme is slightly higher than that of natural exhaust, but lower than that of a passive supply and exhaust system.
- Forced supply and exhaust circuit
An effective option, since it is possible to regulate the pace and intensity of air removal and supply.
Systems of this type are a modified version of the supply and exhaust circuit, where the removal and supply of air is enhanced by electric fans. The fan is installed directly in the vent and is turned on either manual mode, or automatically, for example, when you turn on the light in the bathroom.
This solution has a significant drawback - when the fan is turned off, the ventilation intensity is half that in natural supply and exhaust systems.
Components necessary for building ventilation systems
- External air intake grille
The outer grille is designed to allow outside air to pass through. Grilles are available in round and rectangular shape which, however, does not in any way affect their performance.
The outer grille performs decorative function and dust retention function. For these purposes, the lattice slats are inclined towards the bottom.
- Internal grille
This device is installed on the air duct in the room and performs both a decorative and barrier function. To prevent insects and dust from entering the room through the air duct, a fine mesh is attached to the underside of the grille.
As the ventilation system is used, the mesh on the grill becomes clogged with dirt. Therefore, once every six months, the removable cover from the grille is removed, and the mesh is washed to remove dirt or replaced with a new mesh, cut to the required sizes.
For greater functionality, the internal grille is equipped with movable lamellas, which rotate around their axis and allow air to pass through in a dosed manner.
Lattices with round shape are equipped with a movable insert that rotates relative to a round removable nozzle. In one position, the slots in the movable insert coincide with the slots in the grille and full air passage is ensured. In another position, the slots in the insert and in the outer cover do not match and air does not pass through.
Analogue of the described device in industrial systems called air valve. This is a shut-off valve that is placed directly in the air duct. In industrial systems, the valve rotates automatically when the fan is turned off, and in household system You can shut off the air supply manually.
The choice of internal and external grilles for the bathroom is made in accordance with the internal diameter and configuration of the air duct and in accordance with aesthetic preferences. The most popular household grilles are round with a seat size of 100 and 50 mm.
- Air duct
In order to connect the inner grid with the outer one or in order to ensure the supply supply air you need an air duct. An air duct is a hollow pipe with smooth internal walls and internal diameters cross section, corresponding to the landing diameter of the gratings used.
Industrial air ducts, which are used for ventilation of rooms of 300 m² and more, are made of metal with a surface layer of thermal and noise insulation. When arranging a bathroom, there is no such need, and therefore PVC or polyethylene pipes are used.
On the market plastic air ducts presented in rectangular and round versions. The shape and cross-sectional dimensions of the air ducts correspond to the seat size and shape of the grille.
Plastic pipes have low thermal conductivity, so condensation occurs in limited quantities. One way or another, in the ventilation design, holes for draining water must be provided in the outer part of the air duct.
- Fan
The selection of fans for the forced-air system is made in accordance with their power and bore diameter.
The fans are a compact electric motor with an impeller. This entire unit is integrated into the grille or adapted for installation in the air duct.
IN established form the grille with a fan differs little in appearance from the grilles used in passive systems. Most fans that can be purchased on the market or in specialty stores are designed for use in hoods.
- Air Dryer
Household dehumidifiers do not belong to the ventilation system, but can optionally be used indoors. That is, the dehumidifier will provide optimal level humidity, while ventilation will freshen the exhaust air.
The use of household dehumidifiers allows us to solve the problem of condensation on the surface of the walls. As a result, the likelihood of mold growth is reduced, even with insufficient ventilation.
Performance calculation
SNiP standards regulate two parameters ventilation systems:
- air exchange rate – volume of transported air;
- air exchange rate – the number of exhaust air removal cycles.
For a bathroom, the average multiplicity is 4-8 cycles. The air exchange rate for a separate bathroom is indicated within 25 m³ per hour. For a combined bathroom, this parameter is twice as large.
The given parameters primarily relate to the fan. The intensity of air exchange is determined by the power of the fan.
The frequency of operation of equipment in inexpensive forced-type systems is determined manually. That is, you yourself will have to turn on the fan the required number of times for a given period of time. In more advanced systems, the price of which will be higher, along with the fan, a special power block for automation of air removal.
Installation of a passive supply and exhaust system
I would like to note right away that for natural ventilation to function effectively interior doors should be installed as in the proposed diagram.
Due to the gap in the lower part of the canvas, intensive air exchange becomes possible between the ventilation throughout the house and the exhaust in the bathroom. By the way, most modern interior doors are designed taking into account effective air exchange, and therefore are installed with a gap at the threshold.
Let's say the interior doors in the house are installed correctly, which means you can start installing the hood. The hood is installed in the upper part of the wall, 10-15 cm below the ceiling line.
The installation instructions for the hood are as follows:
- On external wall a private house is marked - a circle is drawn, the perimeter of which is 5 mm larger than the perimeter of the air duct that is supposed to be used to pass through the wall;
- Along the marked perimeter, the wall is drilled through;
If the wall is concrete, it would be correct to order diamond cutting of concrete. Although the price of the service is high, the hole will have perfectly smooth edges and the work will be completed quickly. If the wall is brick, you can drill it yourself, making through holes in the wall along the perimeter of the marked circle. After the holes are drilled, all that remains is to knock out everything unnecessary from the circle.
- Sweep the dust out of the hole and moisten the resulting opening with water;
- We insert a pre-prepared air duct into the hole and set it level so that the outer end of the pipe is located below the end that is inside;
The slope of the air duct when passing through the wall is required to ensure natural drainage of condensate to the outside.
- We apply polyurethane foam into the gap between the edge of the hole and the pipe;
- WITH inside a grid is attached to the end of the pipe;
- WITH outside a tee is placed on the pipe with one bend up and the other down;
- We put a plug on the lower outlet, drilling into it through hole with a diameter of 10 mm;
Condensation will drain through this hole during the cold season. If the drain freezes in winter, you will need to remove the plug and clean the drain.
- From the upper outlet of the tee we lead the pipe upward, as shown in this diagram;
- In the upper part of the pipe, the hole is covered with a chimney ending - a raincoat.
After the installation of ventilation is completed, you will receive a productive system that will provide the bathroom with fresh air. The only drawback such a solution is the likelihood of a draft forming in the path of air flows.
By the way, in this diagram you can see how hoods from the bathroom and from the kitchen are simultaneously connected to one pipe without any damage to air exchange.
Forced exhaust system device
On the diagram you can see effective system forced selection of warm humid air around the house. For these purposes, air ducts connected to a powerful fan are installed in the bathroom and kitchen.
Exhaust air is taken through air ducts located in the ceiling above those areas of the room in which the greatest accumulation of moist air is likely.
As in natural pattern removal of exhaust air, the doors at the bottom of the opening must have a gap so that normal air exchange is ensured due to circulating flows.
How to check ventilation efficiency
If the air flow feels like a draft, then there is no need to worry about air exchange - it is more than sufficient.
In other cases, a lit match or a thin sheet of paper is brought to the hood. By the vibration of the paper or fire, you can accurately determine how efficiently the hood works.
By the way, air ducts, especially if they are old, tend to become clogged. Therefore, the check described above must be performed annually. If the air circulation has weakened, it's time to inspect the air duct and clean it.
Conclusion
Now you know what ventilation is in the bathroom and toilet, and how to do it yourself. I recommend watching the video in this article. I am sure that if you wish, you can use the instructions provided and make the air in the bathroom fresher. You can ask questions on the topic in the comments.
The bathroom and toilet are rooms in the process of arranging which, first of all, you need to think about organizing intensive air exchange. This is due to the specifics of operation hygienic premises. Polluted and over-humidified air must be freely removed and replaced with a fresh portion.
We will tell you how ventilation should be arranged in the bathroom and toilet according to building codes and regulations. In the article we presented, the options for organizing ventilation that have been tested in practice are analyzed in detail. Do-it-yourselfers will find detailed installation manuals here.
The opinion that the absence of a ventilation shaft in the bathroom and toilet will only lead to fogging of the mirrors is fundamentally wrong. The main problem is the appearance of fungus (most often it can be seen on the seams between tiles) and rust on the surface of equipment and furniture.
Often, it is due to an incorrectly designed ventilation system that corrosion affects working parts. washing machine, which is the reason for its breakdown. The list of problems that the lack of intensive air exchange leads to does not end with this. As a result, poor ventilation will have a detrimental effect on the health of residents.
Sanitary requirements and standards
There are special standards that must be followed when organizing forced air exchange in rooms with high humidity levels. At a minimum, it is necessary to ensure an influx fresh air in the amount of 6-7 m 3 / hour for each cubic meter of bathroom and about 8-10 m 3 / hour - for a toilet or combined bathroom.
The difference between natural ventilation and forced ventilation
There is natural and forced ventilation. In the first case, air exchange is ensured by the circulation of air masses through door and window openings. About a century ago, natural ventilation was considered the most effective method.
Today, it is unable to provide a sufficient level of air exchange, so it is used only for inflow. To fully ventilate the room, choose the forced option. After all, no one wants to open a window for a long time in winter and let out the heat.
Organizing forced ventilation involves installing an exhaust fan. Thanks to this, you can retain precious heat, remove excess moisture and fill the room with fresh and clean air in a matter of minutes.
The main reason why it is worth installing forced ventilation is precisely sized doorways and tightness modern double glazed windows. Such perfectionism, while retaining heat, makes any natural air exchange impossible.
Calculation of optimal performance
Before going to the store and purchasing equipment for installing forced ventilation in the toilet and bathroom, you need to make some calculations. To select the equipment that is optimal for performance, you need to know the exact volume and type of room.
Each room has its own air exchange rate. This characteristic shows how many times the air in the room should be completely renewed per unit of time (usually one hour). Since the bathroom and toilet are considered one of the most wet places in any apartment or house, the recommended maximum air exchange rate is 10.
If the fan cannot be placed in the optimal place for organizing intensive air exchange, then its power must be multiplied by 2-3 times
You should also immediately provide openings for air flow. To do this, you can leave a gap of up to 2 cm between the floor and the door, install special grilles at the bottom of the doors to the bathroom and toilet, or drill holes yourself. But the last option does not look the most attractive.
Classification of exhaust fans
When planning the installation of a ventilation system, special attention should be paid to the principle of its operation and individual components. After all, productivity, noise level of equipment, installation cost and durability depend on this.
For forced evacuation of exhaust air from the room, three types of fans are used:
- diametrical;
- axial;
- radial.
The first type of devices is designed to work in heat guns and air conditioning systems. Therefore, it is not suitable for organizing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. It remains to choose from two other types.
The main difference between axial models and radial ones is their low cost and high power. But the device will make quite a lot of noise. An axial fan is an impeller to which blades are attached. The system is driven by an electric motor.
As for radial units, their operation is based on the action of centrifugal force. Due to the rotation of the impeller together with the blades, air masses move.
In this case, you can change the inclination of the blades, thereby reducing the amount of energy consumed by the device and reducing the level of noise it produces. Our recommended article will introduce you to popular models intended for installation in bathrooms.
To prevent air from the ventilation shaft from returning back into the room, it is recommended to buy devices with check valve. Such devices are indispensable in modern apartments.
Basic criteria for choosing equipment
Manufacturers offer a simply huge range. Therefore, it is not surprising that every unprepared buyer falls into a stupor and does not even know what he should order.
When buying an exhaust device for the bathroom and toilet, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- Duct diameter. Depending on this characteristic, the fan pipe is selected. As a rule, standard models have a diameter of 150, 125 or 100 mm.
- Presence/absence of air ducts, as well as their location in the room. These criteria influence where the fan will be installed.
- Power. Characteristics are important when choosing, so that in the future the exhaust equipment copes with the functions assigned to it.
- Presence of moisture protection. This indicator is marked with Latin letters IP. The minimum required value for a plumbing unit is IP30, but it is better to spend a little money and order a device with IP44. In the latter case, it will be located in a special sealed casing, protected from moisture and splashes.
- Noise level. Few people pay due attention to this important characteristic, but in vain. After all, it’s silent exhaust system will make your stay in the bathroom and toilet more comfortable.
Taking these subtleties into account, you can choose a model that will be inexpensive and satisfy all your wishes.
Typically, the fan package includes the device itself and four dowels that will be needed for its installation. In most cases, a cardboard box is used to package the device.
Additional equipment functions
An excellent solution would be to order a fan with additional functions. Most often, buyers prefer models with a built-in timer.
In this case, the user can leave the factory settings or program the operation of the device independently, changing the operating time, start delay, etc. Thanks to this, it is possible to automate the process of ventilation of the toilet and bathroom.
Devices with a built-in timer are quite expensive. Therefore, their choice should be taken with full responsibility. Products from Maico have proven themselves best. This manufacturer offers a number of models that are equipped not only with a timer, but also with other additional functions.
Fans that allow you to switch the base load will help save energy. That is, the unit can operate in two modes: half its capacity and full power, when you need to refresh the air in the room in the shortest possible time. Thanks to this function, the noise of the ventilation system is significantly reduced and energy is saved.
A good solution would be to buy a device with a clock or backlight. Such additional functions will make showering or bathing more convenient and comfortable
Any specialist will prefer a device with a built-in humidity sensor. Its peculiarity is that it turns on only by a signal from the built-in hygrometer. Thanks to this function, energy is saved and there is no need for a separate electrical outlet for the fan or connecting the device to a light switch.
System components and materials
Today, ventilation is assembled from a round or rectangular section. As a rule, they are made of metal or plastic. These elements are mounted for suspended ceiling.
If we're talking about about bathrooms and toilets in small apartment, then in such housing the ventilation duct is a hole in the wall into which a fan is inserted. In this case, there is no point or need to design a complex, branched system.
As for private houses, ventilation for them is constructed from the following elements:
- Air ducts. Much easier to install rectangular air ducts. They fit compactly under the ceiling and do not take up extra space. These are pipes whose length can be 2, 1 and 0.5 m.
- Fan. A surface-mounted or built-in device is used. The latter variety is best used in branched and complex systems. Overhead models are recommended for ventilating one room.
- Swivel elbows. In case of rectangular pipes swivel elbows can be vertical and horizontal.
- Couplings. These elements are used to connect straight sections of the ventilation system.
- Check valves. They are designed to prevent air and insects from entering the mine.
During the installation process you will also need fastenings. Much more convenient to use ready-made elements. They will greatly simplify the installation process and speed up the work.
But if you need to save money, you can make the fastening elements yourself
In case of design error or insufficient efficient work ventilation systems in the bathroom and toilet of a private house can be eliminated by installing them in the wall. Features of choosing the specified device and installation rules are given in the article, the contents of which we advise you to familiarize yourself with.
Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet
Before the beginning installation work preparations need to be made. First of all, you need to compare the diameter of the exhaust device with the size of the shaft.
If vent turned out to be large, then it is inserted into it plastic pipe or corrugation. In this case, voids should be sealed using polyurethane foam. If the entrance to the ventilation shaft is smaller, it can be expanded using a hammer drill.
Determining the installation location
For forced ventilation to be as effective as possible, it is not enough just to purchase powerful equipment. It is equally important to choose right place for installation.
Since it is designed to remove hot humid air, it optimal solution It will be installed in the upper part of the wall, which is located opposite the door.
It is important to organize the flow into the room - you will have to build a special grille into the lower part of the door or leave a regular gap under the door (more economical way). These options will allow fresh air to flow from the living space into the bathroom.
Diagnostics of the condition of the ventilation duct
If you are thinking about remodeling a bathroom or toilet, then before starting any work it should be done in ways accessible to the owners.
First of all, the traction is checked, for which a sheet of plain paper, a lit match or a lighter is leaned against the shaft. If the paper sticks to the ventilation grille and the flame tilts towards the duct, then this is a good sign.
To improve draft, it is recommended to check whether the ventilation duct is cluttered with debris left over from inappropriate repair work or for any other reasons. After cleaning, check the draft with the door open and closed.
Selecting a device connection diagram
If we consider a standard apartment in a new building, then in the vast majority of cases natural ventilation is not enough to remove all excess moisture from the bathroom. The only exception is a private house, whose toilet has a window.
But when installing forced ventilation, the question is: how long should the exhaust device work? Often apartment owners. This means that the device will be able to work exactly as long as a person is in the bathroom. This may not be enough.
The second method is based on connecting the fan to a separate switch. But in this case, the user will forget to turn on/off the device. That's why suitable solution will install a fan with a humidity sensor. Such devices operate autonomously and remove excess moisture from the bathroom without human intervention.
Due to convenience and energy savings, the most popular method is when the fan is connected to the light switch. But this method is not very effective
Fan installation details
Before you begin installing the ventilation system, you must read the instructions that come with the devices. In the vast majority of cases, the entire installation process is described in detail in the insert. This will greatly simplify and speed up the work.
The most labor-intensive stage is installing and connecting the fan.
- Remove the front cover.
- In those areas where the fan is adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to apply polymer glue, silicone or liquid nails. All of the above mounting methods are perfect, since exhaust devices are most often made of plastic and, accordingly, are light in weight. That's why liquid nails will be sufficient.
- Insert the fan so that its working part ( Electrical engine and a wheel with blades) were completely “recessed” into the wall.
- Press the unit body tightly so that the adhesive has time to set.
- Install a mosquito net. This element will protect against various insects and debris from entering the room from the ventilation duct.
- Secure the front cover using self-tapping screws or dowels that are included in the kit.
The final stage is laying the cable and connecting the ventilation system to the electrical network.
The entire installation process is quite simple, but if any problems or difficulties arise, it is better to entrust this work to professionals
Forced ventilation significantly increases the volume of air removed from the room. But since the front cover blocks a considerable part of the channel when the device is turned off, the flow rate decreases several times. Because of this, its performance drops significantly.
The above problem is solved by installing an air intake grille. This will help restore normal performance. The second method is to leave a small gap (1-3 cm) between the front cover and the wall. Air will be sucked into the resulting gap and ventilation will operate normally.
When connecting the ventilation system to the electrical network, you must adhere to safety rules. First of all, you need to make sure that the wires are de-energized. In addition, to connect them it is better to use terminal blocks rather than “twists”
Common installation mistakes
If an inexperienced craftsman is installing a ventilation system, then situations often arise when, after finishing the work, its performance does not satisfy the wishes of the residents or it is not efficient.
The reason for this is due to errors during installation. To avoid basic problems, you need to know some nuances.
The most common errors encountered when installing a ventilation system are:
- the channel is designed incorrectly, which significantly impedes the movement of air;
- fans make a lot of noise when operating;
- the tightness of the shaft connection is broken;
- The ventilation system passes through the living space and its noise interferes with the normal life of the family.
If the design was done incorrectly, then the problems listed above will certainly appear. However, to correct them, it is often necessary to completely redo the ventilation system.
In some cases, a strong hum when the fan is operating is a clear sign that it is incorrect installation and making an error called “alignment”. Is being decided this problem by dismantling the device and re-installing it, but with strict adherence to technology
You can go the easy way. For example, to reduce noise, it is recommended to use noise absorbers. As for increasing ventilation performance, to do this you will have to install a new, more powerful exhaust device and check the quality of the air flow into the bathroom and toilet.
People who are faced with organizing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet for the first time will find it useful to read the tips from experienced craftsmen. First of all, they recommend ensuring a normal flow of fresh air into the room. Otherwise, the operation of the exhaust fan will be meaningless.
There is no need to buy expensive and bulky systems. Spending enormous amounts of money is not always the best solution. It is enough to select the devices correctly and competently, then even cheap models will cope perfectly with the ventilation of the room.
When choosing a fan, you should never skimp on quality. After all, the health of each family member, as well as the service life of the device, depends on this. It’s better to spend money once, but order a device that will faithfully serve for decades
If the house has an air conditioner, ionizer, purifier, and similar devices, then it is still necessary to install ventilation. After all, none of the devices listed above provides a flow of fresh air into living spaces.
Rules for operating the exhaust system
In order for the equipment to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to regularly carry out preventive maintenance. After all, dust and dirt accumulate on the fan blades over time. This does not allow the device to work at its maximum capabilities and provide decent air exchange. Moreover, if cleaning is not carried out in a timely manner, the device may fail.
Installing a forced ventilation system allows you to solve the current problem modern houses and apartments, the problem of room ventilation. A window is rarely installed in bathrooms and toilets, so the only correct and reasonable solution would be to provide intensive air exchange artificially by installing a fan in the system.
Natural ventilation in our homes is organized as follows: air entering the windows passes living rooms, and is removed through ventilation ducts in the upper part of the kitchen and bathroom. It then rises through a vertical air duct, after which it is discharged into the ventilation shaft. Along with it, dust, moisture and carbon dioxide. This is ideal. In fact, the smell of the neighbor's broth, cigarette smoke and sewage reigns in our home. What to do when ventilation ducts stop working at their designed capacity? The only solution seems to be to install ventilation in the bathroom and toilet.
But don’t rush to run to the store for the most powerful and expensive fan. At a minimum, you need:
- check traction;
- determine the cause of poor ventilation;
- select the type of fan;
- figure out how to properly make a hood in the bathroom and toilet, what materials will be needed for installation;
- Study the attached instructions on how to install a fan in the bathroom.
Checking traction
To check the draft, it is necessary to ensure air flow by opening the window slightly. Apply narrow strips of paper to the ventilation duct grille. If the strips adhere to the grille, then the ventilation is functioning normally. But if the paper does not sway, or, on the contrary, deviates from the hood, then there is a reverse draft effect. We will identify the causes and eliminate them.
Using an anemometer, we measure the speed V (m/s) of the air flow passing through the ventilation duct. Air flow through the ventilation system channel is determined by the formula: D = V x F, m³/h, where: F - channel cross-sectional area, m². After this, the calculation made is checked for compliance with standard parameters.
For a bathroom or toilet, the flow rate through the hood opening must be at least 25 m³/h, for a combined bathroom - 50 m³/h.
Causes of poor (or reverse) draft in the toilet and bathroom.
Let's consider several reasons for poor ventilation in the bathroom or toilet:
Choosing a fan for the hood
Do you want to know how to properly ventilate? Choose a model electric fan subject to the specifications and functions listed below.
Fan performance
For the calculation, we will use such a value as the air exchange rate. For a bathroom (toilet and bathtub), this figure ranges from 6...8 and means how many times in 1 hour the air in the room should be renewed.
Example. Bathroom area - 9 m², height - 2.5 m.
We calculate the volume of the room:
V = 9 m² x 2.5 m = 16.8 m³
Performance:
Vvent = 16.8 m³ x (6…8) = 100…135 m³/h
According to calculations, the power of your fan should be at least 100...135 m³/h. But, this calculation is not suitable for ventilation systems with the effect reverse thrust. In order to “push through” the channel resistance, a more powerful cooler will be required. How much more powerful? We recommend increasing the calculated fan performance by 30% Vfan. This should compensate aerodynamic drag channel on the section “apartment - entrance to the mine”.
Advice. Avoid installing fans with a capacity of more than 1000 m³/h. For efficient operation of such equipment, a large volume of supply air will be required. Working “idle” it will overheat and quickly fail.
Fan installation
Before you start installing a fan in a bathroom or toilet, we consider it necessary to convey to you one fact.
By converting your natural circulation into forced circulation, without permission from the state housing inspection, you are committing an administrative offense. An exception is low-power equipment up to 100 m³.
In fact, fines for unauthorized installed fan are prescribed extremely rarely, so when choosing between the aroma of a neighbor's sewer and installing a fan in the toilet (bathroom), most people prefer the latter option.
Installation of an axial fan according to the “light bulb-fan” scheme
This scheme will be of interest to those who want to know how to make ventilation in the toilet quickly and without unnecessary bells and whistles.
Before you make a hood in the toilet according to this scheme, you need to know about its “weak points”. Since the connection is made through a light bulb, you will have to use a two-core cable (phase-zero). You can ground the equipment only if you run a separate wire between the “ground” of the fan and the “ground” of the outlet or switch.
Installation of an axial fan with built-in delay timer
For those who want to make ventilation in the bathroom, we recommend purchasing a model with a built-in timer. The scheme of its operation is as follows: when the light is turned on, the hood starts working. When a person leaves and turns off the light, the delay timer starts (from 2 to 30 minutes) and the fan continues to extract moist air.
Below is the installation procedure, for those who do not know how to install a hood in the bathroom according to this scheme.
- We make grooves or if the bathroom is already finished, we lay plastic boxes for open wiring.
- Remove the decorative (front) cover of the device. We pass the wires (neutral and phase) through the fan housing and the holes of the built-in terminal block, but do not secure it yet.
- Set the delay time. There are models where the settings are made from the remote control, but in inexpensive models this parameter is set using a slotted screwdriver on the TIME regulator.
- We screw the case to the wall with self-tapping screws or sit it on silicone sealant.
- We clamp the wires in the fan terminals. We connect the stripped leads of the wires from the fan and the light bulb through the terminal block. We pull the wiring from the light bulb to the switch. Before making a hood in the bathroom, decide where the switch will be located. For reasons of convenience, we recommend moving it to the inner wall of the bathroom, but the degree of protection of the shell must be at least IP44.
- We lay the cable in the box.
- Close and secure the decorative fan cover.
Results
Let's sum it up? We learned:
- determine the degree of functionality of our natural ventilation;
- discussed the reasons why cravings in ventilation ducts may weaken or disappear altogether;
- gave advice on choosing a hood fan for a bathroom or toilet;
- told how to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, using the two most popular schemes.
Providing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet will maintain a healthy microclimate in your apartment and protect you from many problems.
