I'm planning on putting laminate flooring on. Now the floor is painted wood. Fiberboard, like thick cardboard, is nailed on top. This fiberboard is also painted.
But in some places there are small bulges on it, and where it is nailed %u2013 there are depressions. Can laminate be placed directly on this fiberboard or does it need to be removed?
Will the floor play on convex areas?
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User comments:
In principle, laminate is a very undemanding material floor covering. From the point of view of optimizing installation, fiberboard is most often used to level the floor before laying the laminate. But in your case, in my opinion, it would be optimal complete replacement DPV, in order to avoid unevenness, if this is not possible, then try to neutralize these unevenness with the help of some adhesive materials (silicohelium with shavings, for example).
Do you really have such bulges there that it will be noticeable on the laminate??? If you are not satisfied with this, then you can put in new fiberboard, or even better, it should be plywood. You can simply glue it to the screed with any parquet glue, and screw it around the perimeter and in the center with self-tapping screws, this is done to ensure that the base is strong and reliable. But the most important thing!!! Be sure to place a backing, such as cork, under the laminate.
It is not recommended to lay laminate flooring on uneven surface. All unevenness should not exceed 3mm per 1 lm; if you have more, then they must be eliminated. The base must be clean, dry, even and durable, so chipboard rather than fiberboard is more suitable ( particle board), it can even be placed on top of fiberboard (so as not to tear it off).
My husband laid laminate flooring on Lenolium; according to many finishing workers, this is even better than concrete or self-leveling floors. If, as you say, where the depressions are nailed, then as I understand it, they are not depressions, but a little bit of the nails is simply pressed off, and about the bulges - if these are not bubbles, as happens there, they swell from moisture, or something like that, then no scary. Our floor was not very even at all, we were too lazy to level it, and there is a place where you step and you can feel the laminate sagging a little, but we’ve been living here for 3 years now and there are no problems, nothing goes anywhere or moves apart.
If I were you, I wouldn’t take risks with the laminate and additionally put either at least 8mm plywood or OSB plate- 6mm. It would be enough. First, check the floor level; the difference should be no more than 5 mm per square meter. Good luck!
Those who are used to ripping off money for all sorts of nonsense write about “leveling up” and other costs. Laminate is easily replaceable and cheap, so don’t worry about laser levels for floor levelness and other marketing and management tricks.
Chakra, we did the same thing. Old linoleum They didn’t take it off, they decided it would be warmer with it. Before laying the laminate, only the roughest irregularities were smoothed out with adhesive putty. We laid a lightweight foam base and laid laminate flooring. It bends here and there, but nothing critical has happened to it for more than two years. Correctly noted, if it breaks, it can be easily replaced. Even if you can’t find the same design, a piece from under the furniture can be placed in a visible place, and placed under a bed or carpet of a different color.
In principle, it is quite possible to lay laminate on fiberboard, but it is better to lay a special underlay; it is inexpensive, but it will smooth out small unevenness well. Nail holes don't matter at all. If the bulges are no more than 2 mm, then this is not a problem. If they are large, you can try to process them with a grinder or file.
Lay them along the boards and you will break the locks.
Fill it with sand and it will crunch.
When leveling with a plane, hammer the nail heads deeper
As an option, I will suggest using gypsum fiber. Cheaper than plywood, additional hydro-thermal insulation + leveling + speed.
If the floor area does not hit the level, a frame is made under the level, filled with a fine fraction of expanded clay, 2 layers of gypsum fiber board are laid with the seams offset, then a 2 mm substrate, then a laminate. Tested for 4 years, no problems
Nail holes are nonsense. If the bulge is no more than 2-3 mm, it’s also not scary. If your swellings are large, try treating them with a file or sander. In any case, additionally lay a special underlay under the laminate (watch the video on how to lay laminate yourself, everything is very clear there). No other leveling or replacement of the fiberboard is necessary.
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There are many options for leveling and finishing the floor; you can select materials for these purposes according to different prices and the complexity of the flooring. One of them is laying fiberboard on the floor. These are practical, inexpensive sheets that will make the base smooth and even. Like any other material, chipboard has a number of specific features that must be taken into account when installing. This article will talk about the types of fiberboard panels, as well as their advantages and disadvantages.
Fiberboard is a shortened name (abbreviation) for wood-fiber board. Is it finishing or sheet construction option finishing. The price of fiberboard is not too exorbitant, so it is always in demand. The material differs in density. Before you buy it, you need to figure out which one is suitable for your floor.
There are soft, hard and super-hard fiberboard. In this case, the thickness of the sheet can fluctuate in different ranges. This point must be taken into account when purchasing. Some sheets are 2–3 mm thick, while others are 12–15 mm thick. The most voluminous are materials with a thickness of 40 mm. They are used least often in practice.
Fiberboard has high strength and density. But thin sheets have the plasticity necessary for covering curved surfaces. Slabs are used everywhere. In construction they are used for covering floors and walls, and make partitions in passenger-class railway cars. Fiberboard has good sound insulation properties and is suitable for partitioning rooms with excessive noise effects.
Pros and cons of using
Advantages of the material when leveling fiberboard floors:
- Cheap, always a wide range. Anyone can choose their taste and color while spending a minimum of money.
- Ease of use, easy scheme installation of sheets on the floor. Virtually none additional details You don’t need any for installation (except for mounting hardware).
When installing slabs, you must make sure that the surface is even and that the work done is correct. preliminary work. No other incidents or difficulties were found in the work of laying the material.
- Light weight. You can work with the material alone, without involving assistants.
- Environmental friendliness. The boards are made from recycled wood waste. This natural material, which can even fit in a children's room.
- There are no foreign odors after installation. At first, the aroma of wood will be felt, but after several months it will disappear.
- Durability. This quality applies to the case when the installation of fiberboard was carried out in compliance with all necessary conditions (correct measurement, selection of slab width and step-by-step installation according to the instructions).
- Possibility of use as an insulating layer.
This material has significant disadvantages:
- Fiberboard is afraid of water. Minimal contact with moisture on the surface leads to its deformation (it begins to swell and increase in volume). The top layer of paint that is applied to finishing, also suffers. Therefore, you need to know that you cannot lay the material in the bathroom or kitchen.
- Fragility. When the surface on which the material is applied is deformed, the plate breaks, cracks, and loses its normal appearance.
- High fire hazard. In the event of a fire in the room, the fiberboard will burn first. This situation may then lead to the spread of the fire over an even larger area.
- Rapid wear on the front side. Without a finishing coating, it quickly wears out and cracks.
Fiberboard can easily peel off if it is not positioned correctly on the surface. Any vibrations, movements or touches in in this case very dangerous for the material.
Types of slabs
There are several types of fiberboard for flooring, depending on the density of the source material:
- Soft. The density of the material is no more than 350 kg/m3. Sound insulation properties are not very good, so it is more often used as finishing rear walls cabinet furniture. The soft format is suitable for making the bottom of furniture drawers. There are soft grades - M1, M2 and M3.
- Semi-solid. The density is much higher (about 850 kg/m3). Abbreviation marking - NT. Semi-solid materials are also best used in furniture production.
- Solid. Density ranges from 850 to 1000 kg/m3. The low-porosity composition can be used to make doors and furniture. There are the following types: T, T-S, T-P and T-SP. Sheets are produced under marked T-B. They are more resistant to moisture and are not tinted with outside unlike other brands.
- Super hard. The maximum density of such sheets is slightly more than 1000 kg/m3. Raw materials must be treated with pectol. This is a substance that increases the initial strength of the material by 20%. Such sheets are used in construction. They can be used to make partitions, cover floors and sheathe walls.
The front side can be coated with varnish, paint or primer. They are marked as ST, which has a standard front side, and ST-S, which has a finely dispersed front layer.
Mounting methods
On glue
- A special glue is first applied to the sheets.
- Then you need to wait for half an hour for the adhesive layer to dry.
- While waiting, the same composition must be applied to the base of the floor, which must be well cleared of debris and primed.
- After all these manipulations, the sheets are pressed tightly to the base of the floor.
To avoid unevenness during installation, use a water or laser level. This must be done as quickly as possible before attaching the slabs so that the glue does not have time to dry.
- When laying sheets, the joints should not move relative to each other by more than 50 cm. This condition is mandatory, since in this case the coating will be different great strength and will not deform when exposed to external factors.
For mastic
The method is suitable for covering concrete screeds with fiberboard sheets.
- The base is well cleaned, swept or vacuumed. When the contamination is very strong, wash with a wet cloth.
- When the surface dries, a layer of primer is applied to it. Prime the base as many times as necessary to achieve a slow absorption effect. The faster the primer absorbs, the more you need to apply.
- The completely dried base is covered with a small layer of mastic (layer more than 0.6 mm).
- Before this process, the mastic is applied to the sheets and dried well.
- The sheets are laid in even layers on the treated floor surface and pressed tightly.
If hot mastic is used, it is applied immediately before laying the sheets, without waiting for drying. In this case, its contact with air should be minimal.
Stages of work
Preparing the base
- Before installing the slabs, the base is rough finished.
- The floor is thoroughly washed to remove dirt and dust and dried.
- Primer is required.
- All skirting boards must be removed to make room for easy installation.
- The integrity of the wooden floor must be checked.
- All poorly reinforced elements must be carefully secured. By tapping, they look for voids, which must also be eliminated.
- Deep cracks should be covered even layer putties.
- If the structure is old enough, additionally treat the surface with an antifungal mixture.
Installation of sheets
Before placing the sheets on the subfloor, you need to make sure they are the correct size. If necessary, you need to cut off the protruding parts. Cutting tools: jigsaw, machine, Circular Saw and metal scissors.
Sheets can be attached to the base in two ways:
- For glue or mastic.
- With nails.
Attention
Fiberboard can be laid on logs, and if the floor is wooden, then it will be enough to use drying oil or tar.
Most easy way fastening slabs to a wooden floor - nails:
- First, the base is cleaned from dirt and dust. To do this, walk over the surface with a wet cloth or vacuum cleaner.
- Then the material is laid out on the floor, its dimensions are adjusted to the size of the room, and the sheets are cut.
- The first is laid from the far corner of the room towards the exit from the room. The sheet is fastened with nails with a diameter of 1.1-1.6 mm and a length of 20-25 mm, nailed to the rough wooden floor. Fastening begins from the middle of the room. The caps of fasteners should not rise above the surface.
- The subsequent sheets are laid in the same way. The resulting deformation gap along the walls is covered with a plinth.
Laying options
Under laminate
You can level the surface under the laminate using a dry screed. GVL sheets, moisture-resistant plywood, asbestos sheets and plasterboard are used.
- The surface is tapped well for the presence of voids and gaps.
- Only after this is it sanded and washed to remove dirt.
- When the surface is perfectly clean, apply a small layer of primer.
- Once the primer has dried, apply it to upper layer base prepared mixture. All this should dry within a few days, then you can start laying the laminate.
Under linoleum
It is advisable to place fiberboard under the linoleum, having made preliminary calculations. This is the installation option when a lack of sheets can lead to an error in the location of the entire structure. It is important to comply following conditions when laying to achieve good results:
- It is important to pre-treat the surface with drying oil to minimize contact with moisture and protect the entire surface from water.
- After processing, the sheets are left to dry and then stacked to achieve maximum evenness and a smooth surface.
- You can put weights on top. This is done to speed up the leveling. Under the influence of gravity, the sheets are better pressed and aligned more perfectly.
- Special glue is applied to the surface, then the sheets are placed and pressed tightly to the base.
- It is necessary to maintain the distance between the sheets. The gap should be no more than 7 mm, but there is no need for a distance that is too small. You should not make a gap less than 5 mm.
- The work is carried out from the far wall, farthest from the door of the room.
- After the composition has dried, the joints are treated. The surface is smoothed by sanding, removing all unevenness and dust, and the seams are sealed with putty.
- Before laying linoleum, the surface is thoroughly cleaned and dried.
Experts advise adhering to the following recommendations when installing:
- Very often people use adhesives or mixtures as fastening. This option for attaching sheets is simple, but time-consuming: you have to wait for the glue to dry, and then make sure that the slab adheres tightly to the base. The easiest way is to use simple nails. It is better to fasten the slabs to a wooden floor with small nails (15 mm).
- It is important to put high-quality waterproofing under the base. Those who believe additional protection floor from moisture unnecessary hassle, you need to be careful. Even a slight ingress of moisture on the sheet leads to its severe deformation. In a few years, such an overlap will be left with dust. You will have to change the entire base, carrying out unnecessary work and spending a lot of money on materials.
- If the old floors are relatively smooth, but the surface needs to be updated, it is enough to sand them and then cover them with sheets of high-quality fiberboard - hardboard. With this installation method, the old base is thoroughly cleaned after sanding for primer.
To level the floor, you must first draw a diagram of the planned work. You need to have everything at hand necessary materials, tools. The laying of sheets begins with thorough cleaning of the surface, only after which installation begins. If this condition is not met, the sheets quickly become unusable. In a few years, repairs will be needed again.
In contact with
Nowadays, laminate is one of the most common flooring options. But masonry Any material has its own invisible moments. This is exactly what we will talk about next.
Invisible styling moments
If you are asking whether it is possible to lay new laminate on hardboard, then you have come to the right place. We will try to figure out what the difficulties of such work are and how to avoid them.
Laying laminate on fiberboard sheets
During the installation process laminate based coatings The evenness of the floor base is extremely important. Only in this case is it possible to correctly lay the panels.
Main! Differences in height are checked using a bubble level. In this case, the value should not be more than 2 millimeters. All bumps and holes should be removed. Most manufacturers dictate eigenvalues by height difference. But under any circumstances, the base must be particularly even, otherwise the claps of the lamellas cannot be avoided. Yes, and panels covered with laminate can jump out of their connections, which are called “locks”.
Therefore, before laying laminate flooring, it is recommended to correctly assess the condition of the floor. And if the base is uneven, the problem must be removed. Typically, you can apply putty mixtures to the surface without even removing the fiberboard. This is when the sheets are laid on concrete.
It is best to straighten the base under the laminate by removing the plywood. And if the floor is flat, lay the panels directly on it. If not, make a screed. This best option. Practice demonstrates that if there are a considerable number of unevennesses, then it is easier to make a screed than to level everything with putty.
Laying a laminate flooring on concrete screed
The main thing is to adequately assess the condition of the base of the floor, so as not to unnecessarily lay the laminate on the fiberboard and damage everything. No one is against laying laminate panels on fiberboard sheets. This is ordinary material, and it is permissible in this case. Let's just return to the fact that the floor must be level.
Conclusion
Whether to lay fiberboard sheets on the floor or not depends only on your desire. There shouldn't be any problems. Look carefully at the quality of the material and ask the store for quality certificates for any products so that masonry was high quality.
How not to lay laminate flooring. Laminate on wooden floors in Khrushchev, without plywood
When leveling the bottom surface of a room, the most practical and in an accessible way All that remains is to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor. This method is advisable when laying on old lumpy floors, a plane with unevenness, defects or with some slope. Fiberboard sheets are most often laid on joists, but another method is also possible. It is possible to lay them under linoleum or carpet with insulation. This material is not always advisable, for example, under heavy loads, and all the features of the coating are worth considering in more detail.
Basic conditions for laying fiberboard on a wooden floor
Each flooring has its own advantages and disadvantages, and installing fiberboard over a wooden floor remains the simplest and most practical. It doesn’t always make sense to tear old boards off the floor, especially in old houses and country buildings. They provide surface integrity and give extra warmth. However, the boards become deformed over time and require partial or complete replacement.
Experts recommend leveling the surface using sheets of plywood, fiberboard or chipboard (not to be confused) using logs made from quality timber. However, thin layers of these materials cannot always withstand significant loads, for example:
- for working machines that produce high vibration;
- under thin metal legs furniture;
- under heavy and bulky furniture, especially if the supports are not on the logs under the sheets of covering, but on the gaps.
The choice of materials for installation and how professionally the installation work was carried out is very important. Whether or not there will be floors in the future directly depends on this:
- smooth;
- solid;
- durable;
- sustainable.
The horizontal surface is a fundamental criterion for the quality of floor laying work. Therefore, prepare in advance necessary tools, including a universal construction level, without which it is difficult to verify the accuracy of the floor geometry.
It is equally important to properly prepare the old base:
- thoroughly clean and remove all construction debris;
- remove the plinth, which prevents the installation of the base under the fiberboard;
- seal all cracks in the floor for tightness;
- clean off everything that is peeling and crumbling on the floor;
- mark the level of the lower horizontal lines near the walls along which the surface will be leveled;
- if in the floor of the dacha, country house or the building is supposed to have an entrance to the cellar, it is better to start with its arrangement and then lay the floors.
Attention: If the logs are perfectly aligned, then poor-quality work on laying fiberboard sheets can ruin the whole impression!
Fiberboard should not be laid too tightly without a gap, otherwise, when the level fluctuates, their edges will rise, splitting. The sheets should also retreat from the walls by about 4-7 mm - this edge will still go under the baseboard.
Experts recommend starting laying out fiberboard sheets from the opposite wall to front door. If there is no experience in how to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor, experts recommend immediately checking the first layer with a level for leveling if any inaccuracies are identified. Each subsequent row is checked horizontally using the same method - haste in case of inaccuracies is inappropriate. When gluing slabs, it is advisable to place a weight on top of the seams, but if they are nailed, then there is no need. If the floors are laid under linoleum or carpet, then no further processing is expected.
Advantages of fiberboard floors
Wood fiber boards are a fairly common construction and finishing material, applicable for repairs and cladding. various surfaces. Fiberboard is used not only for rough installation various designs, but also for the floor. It is noteworthy that even those who do not know how to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor prefer this material due to its reasonable cost and practicality. Fiberboard sheets are irreplaceable:
- when leveling the old floor;
- under rough laying linoleum or parquet;
- for covering surfaces (floors, walls, arches).
Main advantages:
- easy installation, but you need to know how to place joists on a wooden floor;
- high strength of a fragile-looking material resembling wood cardboard;
- tolerates temperature changes well with moderate air humidity;
- durability (in the absence of excess moisture);
- environmental friendliness, thanks to which fiberboard is a natural material used by allergy sufferers intolerant to chemical components in residential premises;
- convenient packaging;
- affordable price.
At the same time, fiberboard floors have their “disadvantages”:
- when leveling the floor, additional costs are required for timber under the logs as a base;
- insufficient protection from water, although this is quite suitable material for a nursery or bedroom;
- with great pressure or impact with a sharp, heavy object, a small gap may form between the joists;
- poor fire resistance in case of fire;
- the appearance is too simple for cladding;
- without protective treatment, the surface wears out quickly, especially with heavy loads and furniture movements;
- in a damp, unheated room it may delaminate.
Attention: Regarding environmental friendliness, this is a controversial issue, since the old form of release involved a different technology for gluing materials, so it is not advisable to use the remains of fiberboard sheets lying around workshops and garages in a residential area!
If you have any doubts, see expert advice: how to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor, video at the end of the article.
How to choose materials
Buying fiberboard sheets is a responsible business, and a large list of building materials from different manufacturers not only gives more choice, but also, to some extent, creates confusion. Today there remains a risk of purchasing a low-quality or unsuitable product.
1. If leveling the floors is done for painting, then it is better to purchase decorative plywood, which can be laid out in patterns, like parquet or laminate floors High Quality will cost much less.
2. If appearance is not so important, since fiberboard flooring on a wooden floor is planned under laminate or carpet, then visual parameters are not as important as specifications. Fiberboard sheets are different sizes, soft and hard, and are classified according to their standardization scale:
- grade T with a regular front surface;
- T-S has a front layer with a finely dispersed mass of wood fibers;
- T-P has a color on the front surface;
- T-SP finely dispersed front layer is tinted;
- T-B has increased water resistance without tinting;
- NT - semi-hard sheets;
- ST - super-hard sheets with a regular front surface;
- ST-S - super-hard sheets with a finely dispersed front layer.
Quality groups A and B are found in hard slabs of brands T, T-P, T-S, T-SP, and their front surface assumes grades 1 and 2. The density of soft sheets varies: M-1, M-2 and M-3. Separately, hardboard is distinguished - fiberboard grade T, which is produced by the wet method. It is used for various purposes:
- insulation and finishing;
- soundproofing and thermal insulation of the floor;
- construction of internal partitions;
- wall cladding;
- underlay for parquet, laminate, linoleum;
- For decorative cladding various panel structures.
Tip: When purchasing, pay attention to appearance hardboard They must be free of defects, have the same thickness around the entire perimeter, with the same shade of the surface of the sheets in one pack (batch).
Key quality indicators:
- identical sheet sizes;
- uniform thickness of fiberboard sheets;
- uniform, homogeneous front surface.
Choosing timber for logs
When choosing timber for logs for installation, it is important to adhere to some recommendations:
- wood laid under fiberboard on a wooden floor must be dry (light timber - dry);
- You should not purchase it in advance and display it in a damp room - it will warp and become unusable;
- use wood treated with special antiseptics of the 2nd or 3rd grade from healthy wood without knots from coniferous trees;
- it is recommended that the beam cross-section is at least 40mm and up to 70mm;
- knots will “lead” the logs later due to the heterogeneity of the wood, but trimmings without these defects can be used;
- a small number of cracks is acceptable, since this is a natural state for timber beams;
- * absence of fungi and germination on damaged areas of wood (quality indicator);
- It is better to immediately discard warped or “winged” bars or use the trimmings on short sections of the joist sheathing.
Attention: You can check the “winging” (screwing of a warped beam) with a plumb line or a thin elastic cord stretched along any wood edge.
How to cut fiberboard correctly?
When laying sheets such facing materials like hardboard or plywood, you have to deal with the need for cutting, especially in the outer rows. Construction supermarkets offer such services, but they need exact dimensions of the room with its deviations from the norm, for example, not all angles are 90°.
Attention: Remember that it is better to make the sheets shorter - they will go under the baseboard, but it is very difficult to cut off the excess.
When cutting with a machine, the cutting of sheets is carried out most evenly and with quality edge. If this is not possible, you will have to do it yourself:
- jigsaw;
- circular saw with a laser guide and disks for working on hardboard;
- universal construction tool for cutting building materials;
- grinder according to precise markings.
Tip: It is better to use a special homemade machine holding the grinder. Metal scissors will help you remove the edges a little. If you have no cutting experience, it is better to practice on an unnecessary piece, first studying the video at the end of the article.
Often it is necessary to trim sheets to make holes for pipes for radiators and plumbing, niches or wall projections. Special holes are made with a jigsaw, a universal tool or a reliable sharp knife. Take care of this tool in advance, for example, rent it. Prepare a template from cardboard and check everything on site; if everything is accurate, transfer the markings to the fiberboard.
Technology for laying logs and fiberboard on the floor
It is unacceptable to store fiberboard slabs and timber in a damp room; it is best to place the timber horizontally on the floor, and the sheets vertically along the wall in conditions close to room temperature.
The logs are laid on previously prepared surfaces - screed, self-leveling mixture or old wooden floors. As a rule, the method of laying fiberboard on a wooden floor is applicable both for leveling the surface and for updating the surface. If there are slight curvatures, differences in floor level from east to north or from west to east, a noticeable slope or obvious unevenness, then it is worth trying to either eliminate them or close them.
If you have no experience in how to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor, then you can ask for advice in the video. In many cases, you can turn to specialists to install the logs, and lay the fiberboard sheets yourself. However, there is nothing difficult about this if you have a tool, patience and experience working with wood. It is necessary to carefully inspect the entire surface of the old floor, and if fungus or mold is found there, it should not be left under the fiberboard sheets, otherwise over time they will “eat up” all the new floors. The remaining areas are treated with a special fungicidal primer or construction antiseptic for wood and other surfaces.
Tip: It’s also worth removing those boards that creak - don’t think that anything will change under the weight of the new floors. Sometimes, due to defects, a significant portion of the old wood flooring has to be cleared away. Don't worry - it will all be hidden under the joists and new cladding!
1. If the old floors are relatively smooth, but the surface needs to be updated, it is enough to sand them and then cover them with sheets of high-quality fiberboard - hardboard. With this method of installation, the old base must be thoroughly cleaned after sanding for primer. It must dry for at least 8-12 hours, depending on the composition and air temperature. Just after this, apply glue and lay down sheets of hardboard, pressing down with weights on the corners and edges.
2. In the design of the joists, special galvanized locknuts with a nylon ring are usually used, which prevents the nuts from moving along the thread.
The devices do not allow them to unwind and weaken the structure. When tightening the top locknuts, which secure the joists in the position required on a given area of the floor, they are slightly buried in the wood structure. Because of this, the surface level may be slightly lower than expected. By tightening the upper locknuts, trace the boundary laser level, taking into account this error. Experts also sometimes create 2 levels, an additional one under the locknut.
3. All logs are laid in a similar way - see the diagram:
Preliminary calculations for the interval between them and the floor level correlate:
- with a beam section;
- floor slope;
- sizes of hardboard sheets.
The bars are mounted directly to the old wooden base, and where there are no boards at the base, instead of them, pieces of timber or other pieces of wood are installed under the logs. It is not recommended to make partial sheathing of joists or leave gaps in the floor underneath them before laying fiberboard. Before laying them on the floor, it is worth recalling that for the subfloor, as a substrate for linoleum, parquet or carpet, less expensive slabs with a small thickness are used, and for finishing- high-quality hardboard.
Attention: Purchased fiberboard sheets stand for 2-3 days in a living room - for acclimatization 2-3 days. Before sticking, you can lightly spray the back side with a spray bottle or treat it with a primer for better adhesion. When installing with nails, this is not necessary.
Features of fastening fiberboard to logs:
- the sheets are laid on the logs so that the seams meet on the bars;
- hardboard (fibreboard sheets) are nailed with screws, self-tapping screws or nails at intervals of about 100mm along the edge and at intervals of 120-150mm in the center;
- the next row does not fit tightly, with a small gap - about 2-3 mm;
- All parallel sheets are laid in the same way.
Features of fastening fiberboard with glue:
- assembly adhesive is applied to the entire surface of the sheet and is well distributed without smudges,
- the sheet should be soaked for 25-30 minutes;
- glue is also applied on top of the primer on the floor;
- the sheet is pressed down and checked horizontally.
Features of floor finishing:
- it is important to remove all remnants of glue that has protruded into the cracks;
- large gaps between the sheets are sealed with putty or glued with reinforcing tape - under the subfloor;
- The fiberboard surface can be varnished or painted.
