The bathroom is the room where you need elevated temperature. Firstly, it feels more comfortable, and secondly, warm air will quickly remove excess moisture after taking a shower or bath. Heating in the bathroom is done infrequently - it is not accepted. A more common method is to install a heated towel rail, which we’ll talk about next. For everything to work without problems, you need to choose the right connection diagram, and even implement it correctly. And you will have to figure everything out on your own. After all, even if you don’t do everything yourself, you’ll have to keep an eye on the plumbers. This is the only way to be sure that you will be left with a properly functioning dryer.
What designs are there?
There are heated towel rails different forms. When choosing them, people are often guided solely by aesthetics, which is not entirely justified. These devices work normally with good water circulation, but not all models provide such circulation. With some you have to spend a long time trying to find correct scheme connections, otherwise they simply refuse to work.
So, all heated towel rails can be divided into four groups:
It often happens that after installing a heated towel rail it simply does not work. If the error is serious, the riser to which it is connected also stops working. Therefore, it is necessary to know and follow the connection rules.
Where to connect and where to hang
You can connect a water heated towel rail to both the hot water riser and the heating system. If both of these options are available, DHW is usually chosen. There are three reasons for this: there is less hassle with permission to connect, you can connect at any time of the year (agree with the management company to turn off the riser and that’s it) and, most importantly, such a heated towel rail heats up all year round.
If there is no hot water supply in the house, you will have to connect to the heating riser. This requires permission from the Criminal Code and a project. Buy a heated towel rail (preferably a simple design), go to the housing office with its passport (copy), write an application. If permission is given, order the project (you will also need a copy of the passport with connecting dimensions). Then, according to the project, you do it yourself or hire performers (plumbers from the housing office, as an option). Call representatives of the Housing Office for acceptance.
To ensure that the “towel” always warms up without problems, all connections are straight, without arcs or pockets
When determining where to install the heated towel rail, questions may still arise about what height it should be hung. If you have a choice, it is most convenient to place it so that it is at head level and below. This is if you install a U-shaped or snake. If we're talking about about “ladders” of great height, top bar positioned at the level of the heat of the raised hand (approximately 190-200 cm).
When choosing a location for installing a heated towel rail, you must also take into account the distance from the riser. In principle, the closer to the riser, the better - the greater the chance that it will work. But, it can be attributed to a meter or so only if the following conditions are met:
- low hydraulic resistance of the heated towel rail ( simple form and section 1″ or 3/4″),
- sufficient pressure (2 atm or more)
- drain pipes of normal diameter (one step smaller than the riser).
At the same time, be sure to follow other connection rules. Then there will be chances that such a “remote” device will work normally.
How to make bends and how to change the riser
If the riser is metal and you are not going to change it, then installing a heated towel rail is possible with steel or. If you change the riser ( the best option) and install polypropylene, there is no choice - PPR pipes are also used for bends. Use polypropylene for hot water, preferably reinforced with fiberglass.
Why is metal-plastic not suitable? Because its fittings have a very narrow clearance. This has a very bad effect on circulation. As a result, even 100% efficient circuits do not provide normal heating.
A little about why to change the riser. It makes sense to do this in old houses when renovating a bathroom or bathroom (depending on where your riser is located). Firstly, the pipes are usually already old and worn out. Even welding an outlet to them can be problematic, the metal is so worn out. Secondly, modern renovation involves hidden laying of communications and you will want it too. Hide old pipe, and after a few years to destroy everything again... not a good decision.
A little about how to change. You need to come to an agreement with the neighbors below and above, as well as with the housing office (DEZ, UK). With your neighbors that you will cut off their riser and install a new one on the thread. Why do they have it? Because leaving an old pipe in the ceiling is dangerous: it will collapse and leak. It will flood you or your neighbors below. Therefore, it is better to pass through the ceilings with a new pipe.
With this connection, the dryer is part of the riser and there cannot be any taps
Having agreed or not with your neighbors (their riser may already be closed), you go to the housing office and agree on the date of replacement and the time for which the riser will be turned off. The work can be done by “local” mechanics, you yourself (if you have welding qualifications) or people you hire. After the connection, the water is turned on, you check the functionality of the heated towel rail and the system as a whole. If it doesn’t start to cool within 30 minutes, it means it’s set correctly. This completes the replacement or installation of the heated towel rail.
With or without bypass
Let's start with what a bypass is. This is a jumper between the input and output of the device, which ensures water circulation when the device fails or is turned off.
The jumper between the input and output of the heated towel rail is the bypass
If the circuit has a bypass, shut-off ball valves can be installed at the inlet and outlet of the device. This is convenient - you can turn it off if necessary (during repair or replacement) and not block the entire riser.
If there is no such jumper, no taps can be installed. In this case, the heated towel rail is part of the riser; by closing the taps, you completely shut off the riser.
The bypass can be direct (as in the first photo in the chapter) or offset (in the photo below). An offset jumper is installed at the top supply of coolant for better work(circulation improves). With bottom feed, the offset only gets in the way. If you don't know where the water is coming from, it's better to do a direct bypass.
Bypasses (straight or offset) are also made narrower. Tapering, as well as displacement, improves circulation, but only in the case of top feed. The narrowing is made with a pipe that is one step smaller than the main one (if the riser is inch, the bottleneck is made 3/4″). You can't do less. The insert size is at least 10 cm.
Once again: an offset and/or narrowed bypass only works with top water supply. At the bottom, it interferes with circulation. If you are not sure, make the bypass straight and untapered.
It is strictly forbidden to install taps on the bypass. Each tap is a loss of pressure, which means it worsens the circulation of the entire riser, the water flows no longer so hot. For all neighbors above or below (depending on the direction of supply), the pressure deteriorates noticeably. Sometimes it also falls on the owner of the bypass with the tap. On top of everything, it's absolutely unnecessary detail, which only brings harm, and no noticeable improvement in circulation in the heated towel rail is observed. Well, and besides, this is a violation of SNiP 01/31/2003 (clause 10.6) - interference with public communications, for which a (considerable) fine may be issued.
How to place taps (connection methods)
For lateral and diagonal connections, the outlets should be located at the same level as the heated towel rail inlets or slightly higher/lower. What definitely won’t work is installing a heated towel rail if the outlets are located at a distance less than the distance between the inputs. The photo below is an example of a non-working diagonal connection with closely spaced taps. The option for correcting it (top feed) is indicated in black.
When connecting, the taps must be positioned strictly horizontally or slightly at an angle. Slightly at an angle - this is from 2 cm per meter (2%) or maybe a little more. The direction of the slope depends on the connection diagram and which end this outlet will be connected to. To make it a little clearer, let's look at a few standard schemes connection of heated towel rails.
Universal bottom connection for heated towel rail "ladder"
This circuit works regardless of the direction of hot water supply. Connection type - bottom, both outlets should be located lower than the bottom edge of the dryer. With top feed, an option is acceptable when the edge is located between the bends, but the work may not be so efficient (it may heat up worse).
In this scheme, you can install shut-off valves. For her normal operation required:
- Mayevsky valves (air vents) installed on the upper outlets to release air accumulated in the upper part. They will need to be periodically opened and vented (as the heat begins to worsen). There is an option - install automatic air vents. They are also compact. This will make it easier to use.
- The bypass is straight and narrowed. The narrowing size is a pipe of one step smaller in diameter.
- Bends are made with a pipe of a step smaller in diameter than the main riser.
If this option suits your height, do it. The scheme works in any conditions, with ladder-type heated towel rails of any type.
Possible bottom connection for top supply
When pouring hot water from above, you can make the upper outlet higher than the bottom edge of the dryer. With the bypass displaced and narrowed, it should heat up normally. This method is not the best, but it works.
The presence of air vents and bleeding of air after the system is stopped are mandatory.
Universal side connection
You can connect the pipes from the side to the heated towel rail in any of the standard shapes - U-shaped, snake and ladder. The connection itself does not depend on the form. IN standard version there is a direct unnarrowed bypass. Bends are either strictly horizontal or with a slight slope. There is a slope in the figure: the end of the upper branch is tilted slightly downwards (2 cm by 1 meter), the lower one is tilted slightly upwards. The diameter of the outlets is not less than the diameter of the heated towel rail.
This connection diagram is good because there is no need to install air vents on the “ladder” (they install plugs), since the air simply goes into the riser.
With the top supply on the bypass, you can narrow it and/or move the jumper towards the heated towel rail. This will improve circulation and the dryer will heat up better. But once again: such a scheme will only work with top water supply.
With this scheme, it is also possible to make bends at a slight angle or strictly horizontally.
Possible side connection option (not the best)
A lateral connection scheme with the top outlet located below the top edge of the heated towel rail is acceptable. But with such a connection, Mayevsky taps are needed, through which you will have to bleed the air after turning off the hot water supply for repairs/maintenance. It may also be necessary to periodically remove air during the process.
Diagonal connection
There is no particular point in the diagonal connection of most heated towel rails: their efficiency is no different from the side one (in any case, there is no significant improvement), but the pipe consumption is greater, longer grooves are required, and this is labor-intensive. Although the scheme is workable.
The diagonal works fine if the feed water is coming above. Then the upper outlet is connected to the far edge of the “ladder”, and the lower one to the near one.
In this case, you can also make a narrowed and offset bypass, but even without this everything should work with a bang. With bottom supply, the bypass is not narrowed, exactly along the riser, connection
Heated towel rails with complex shapes: how to connect
In case of connecting heated towel rails complex shape In addition to the usual means, one also has to take into account the structural features of each specific model. They must be considered from the point of view of hydrodynamics - where water flows best, water is supplied there. For example, the popular model “Elegy” from Sunerge. This is not a ladder or a zig-zag.
Installation of the Sunerzhi Elegy heated towel rail was chosen from the side, since with any other installation the circulation will be disrupted. There are no options here at all.
Another model - with bottom connection And complex design has three installation options. Provided water is supplied from above, the second one will work best, the first one will work a little worse, and the third one will be the most ineffective.
When feeding from below, options 1 and 3 remain, but only without narrowing the bypasses - it will interfere, not help. We exclude the second option completely.
What not to do
All the above schemes work stably. As you noticed, all bends go straight, without bends in the form of an arc or rings. This is not accidental - air accumulates in all irregularities, which interferes with, and sometimes completely blocks, circulation.
The installation of the heated towel rail in the photo is incorrect. At least two mistakes were made:
- the bends are made narrower than the center distance of the heated towel rail;
- They are made with a metal-plastic pipe with loops.
This connection simply cannot work. Metal-plastic pipes are an excellent material, but not for connecting heated towel rails. Their fittings have a very narrow lumen, which has a bad effect on circulation. Plus, air accumulates in the loops, and the flow along the upper loop, even when supplied from above, will not flow - too much hydraulic resistance to the water must be overcome.
Unstable circuits
The following two schemes may work, but not always. At the bottom of the heated towel rail, the water stagnates and, given any difference in height, cannot rise. No one can say specifically when it will work and when it won’t. Depends on the pressure in the riser, the diameter of the pipes and the design of the dryer itself.
With such a connection, even a working connection may suddenly (usually after stopping) stop working. Everything is simple: the pressure has changed, the pipes are clogged, the water from below is not “pressed”, the heated towel rail does not heat.
Another option for an unstable circuit is with a loop on top. Again, it will work under certain conditions. But sooner or later the highest point will become airy and block the circulation. Trouble can be helped if you install it in the most high point automatic air vent, but even if the pressure drops, it won’t save you.
Not true at all
The photo below shows examples of what not to do. Schemes without a tap on the bypass are inoperative. What this threatens is known. In addition, after several years of use, they will stop functioning altogether. Most likely this will happen after the next shutdown - the system will become clogged with dirt. This is because the entire flow of hot water is directed through the heated towel rail. After repairs, the water carries a huge amount of dirt, which safely settles in the bends (in the lowest areas first). Within a few years everything becomes completely clogged. Fortunately, everything needs to be redone and connected correctly, but only flushing can help the fire.
It is necessary to wash both the heated towel rail and the connections to it. To do this, remove the dryer and wash it in the bathroom, and wash the outlets one by one by connecting a hose to the free outlets, the other end of which is taken to the sewer. By manipulating the taps, pass a flow of hot water through one outlet, then through the other. After washing everything is put back in place. It may be possible to start the system after this.
Installation process
The connection of the heated towel rail to the finished outlets is standard for plumbing - suitable fittings, flax and packaging paste or fum tape. For mounting to the wall, there are brackets or special holder clamps into which the pipe is pressed. The process is shown in detail in the video.
If your heated towel rail is already more than fifteen years old, then its appearance is probably completely depressing. Well, after getting acquainted with its more modern counterparts, there immediately arises a great desire to install this snake-like chrome-plated miracle in your own bathroom.
In order to make this desire come true, there are two options:
- Invite professionals to replace the heated towel rail.
- Install the heated towel rail yourself.
Whichever option you choose, read this material to the end. If the replacement procedure is carried out wage-earners, you can easily monitor all their activities. If you install the coil yourself, you will receive high-quality instructions on the topic “Installing a heated towel rail” and easily carry out this procedure.
The strategy for replacing a heated towel rail is as follows:
- The riser is disconnected from the water.
- Remove the old product.
- Install a special jumper.
- Ball valves are installed at all joints with the device.
- Then you can turn on the riser and perform all further work.
It is worth noting that you will have to pay your management company to turn off the riser.
Main varieties
Depending on the operating principle, there are the following types of dryers:
- Operating on hot water. They can be connected to a hot water or heating system. Such dryers will be useful because they can significantly reduce your utility costs.
- Powered by electricity. Such specimens are completely independent of water supply and heating. Quite durable (since there is no corrosion). Easily installed in any convenient place. But the main thing is that there is a power source nearby.
- Combined. It is a combination of the previous types. During the heating season, hot water circulates through the device, and the rest of the time you can turn on the heating element to heat the water.
The appearance of modern water devices is quite diverse. Let's look at their types.
The first type: M, U, F-shaped - the most common shapes.
Second type: “snakes”, “ladders” and other varieties original design devices. To include them in current system, great importance also has the location of the installation pipes:
- Lateral - as a rule, used for heated towel rails of the first type.
- Top or bottom - more common among the second type of coils.
Choice optimal option is always determined by the type of connection diagram, the availability of the required free space in the bathroom, as well as the location of the piping system.
Installation norms and rules
All requirements for connecting the dryer to the hot water supply system can be found in SNiP 2-04-01-85.
Installing a heated towel rail according to all the rules consists of connecting the outputs and inputs of the radiator circuit with the fittings of the heating riser or water main using plastic pipes.
Pipes, couplings, bends are assembled into one whole using a special soldering iron.
To connect a purchased heated towel rail, you can also use copper and metal-plastic pipes, however, here it is necessary to take into account a number of features. In modern half-inch pipes made of metal-plastic, the cross-sectional diameter is smaller than in plastic ones. In addition, they do not withstand strong pressure changes well. Copper pipes, despite their durability, will cost a lot a large sum, and their welding requires special skills and special precautions.
If you want the heated towel rail to perform its functions normally, you must ensure that the supply pipe has a slight slope in the direction of the flow of hot water. Over the entire length of the liner, its length ranges from 5 to 10 mm. The water flow should pass from the top point of the heated towel rail circuit to the bottom. For this purpose, the upper radiator socket is simply connected to the hot water supply riser.
There must be a gap between the surface of the walls and the circuit pipes. It is 35 mm for pipes with a cross-section of less than 23 mm, and 50 mm for pipes with a cross-section of over 23 mm. All distances are easily adjusted with a pin that is screwed into the bracket; however, there are also completely fixed mounts where this distance cannot be changed. The structure that supports the piping should not be fixed too rigidly in order to compensate for all thermal expansion of the pipes and at the same time not load the wall sections that support them.
Required materials
Before installation, it is important to check the equipment of the device, familiarize yourself with the design, connection diagram of the new dryer, and also study the instructions. It's best to prepare in advance necessary materials and tools.
- directly purchased heated towel rail;
- brackets;
- PVC pipes of the required diameter (26 and 32 mm);
- screwdriver;
- turbine;
- fasteners;
- knife for cutting PVC pipes;
- construction level and hammer;
- two adjustable wrenches;
- two or three ball valves;
- tow or some other sealant;
- two union solder nuts;
- soldering iron for PVC pipes;
- PVC elbows;
- one PVC elbow with internal thread;
- two tees (if you install a jumper);
- one coupling with internal thread.
Removing the old heated towel rail
First of all, contact the organization that services your water supply and heating networks so that they shut off the hot water supply during your dismantling work. And only after that start removing the old dryer.
In addition, when removing the old coil, you need to pay attention to the wear of the riser to which it was connected. If its condition already leaves much to be desired, then it makes sense to replace it partially or completely. It would also be useful to ask the opinions of neighbors above and below. Maybe they will support the idea of changing the riser completely. Even when you carry out the replacement only at your place, it is necessary to do this in such a way that the ancient pipes do not remain in the ceilings, and the connections with the new sections are accessible and visible. Having marked the required sections, cut off part of the riser with a grinder along with the dryer.
The cut ends of the pipes still need to be threaded. For this, a special thread-cutting machine is useful. In specialized markets they sell and rent this instrument. Remove the chamfers from the ends of the cut pipe with an impeller, install the required gauge in the tool socket and, having secured it well at the end of the pipe, simply cut the thread.
Currently, copper, steel and polypropylene pipes are most often used for plumbing. The latter are distinguished by their low price, ease of installation, and immunity to corrosion.
In addition, the soldering process propylene pipes simple and easy to learn. For independent work you will need the following tools:
- soldering iron for pipes;
- a set of different nozzles of the required caliber;
- wire cutters or pipe cutter;
- chamfer;
- shaver (for removing aluminum from pipes).
It is better to buy a soldering iron in a specialized store. This way you will be sure of the quality. The soldering iron always comes with attachments. various sizes, as well as a stand for secure fixation.
Correct welding can only be done with a high-quality device, so saving on it is not recommended.
How to weld pipes step by step
First, draw up a diagram for yourself, necessarily taking into account the size of the plots, the location of bends, tees and taps. It will be very convenient to follow it to save materials and assemble accuracy. In addition, the scheme will reduce the number of adhesions on weight.
Use a pipe cutter or wire cutter to cut sections to the required length, and then chamfer the ends with a chamfer. According to the standard, the chamfer has a length of 2-3 mm and a slope of 15 degrees. Do not forget to clean all cut edges of pipes from crumbs and burrs for more reliable welding.
To reliably connect the couplings to the ends of the pipes, you need to heat the soldering iron to 260 degrees, and then place all the elements in the sockets of the nozzles. The coupling is put on the pin on one side. The pipe is inserted into the sleeve on the other side. The total heating time is determined by the diameter of the element, as well as the thickness of its walls. Time is standardized by international standards. It can be found out from special tables. You can also check your readiness for soldering yourself. You need to rotate the element on the heating surface: with the necessary heating, the coupling or pipe will rotate very smoothly and be easily removed from the nozzle.
Plastic pipe soldering process
The heated pipe and coupling should be connected immediately after removal from the soldering iron. Try to align them exactly relative to each other. Press as far as possible, but do not press too hard. You have about 5 seconds after connection to adjust the position of the mating elements. Then they will grab firmly.
Installation of taps and bypass
The bypass jumper is not a required component, but can come in handy in case of need for repair work on an installed dryer. Replacing the sealing gaskets at the points where the dryer is connected to the riser will necessarily require shutting off the water supply to it. This means submitting a special application to housing and communal services, as well as additional financial expenses. By including shut-off valves and a jumper in the connection diagram in advance, you can easily cut off the coil circuit from the main line in order to save money or in case of repairs.
When installing a jumper, you can use steel, copper, or so-called polypropylene pipes.
Working with metal involves labor-intensive welding, so it would be much more rational to make a bypass from modern plastic pipes.
To cut off and regulate the flow in the required areas, we need three ball valves. By installing one on the jumper, and two more on the supply and return water fittings, you can shut off the supply of hot water to the coil and cut it off from the riser. By adjusting the position of the tap on the jumper, you can increase or decrease the water supply in the circuit, and thus adjust the overall heating temperature.
Installation of a new heated towel rail
How to install a heated towel rail: stages
Installation and connection work is carried out in several stages:
- Cutting off the water supply.
- Removing the old coil. If it is connected with a thread to the riser, you need to unscrew it adjustable wrenches. If the dryer is welded to the riser, we simply cut it off along with the pipe using a turbine.
- Installation of ball valves, jumpers.
- Screwing the Mayevsky tap into the bypass for comfortable ventilation of the system.
- Marking on the wall with a pencil places for future fastenings. Setting horizontal marks using a level indicator.
- Drilling holes according to special marks and driving dowels into them.
How to install a new heated towel rail yourself
Having aligned the heated towel rail so that the holes coincide, screw it on with a regular screwdriver. Do not forget to maintain the required distance from the wall to the pipes. We adjust it if there is a bracket with a stud.
- For reliable connection with the supply and return water fittings, we use fittings. They can be angular or straight. It is important to seal the threads with tow or other winding. Fum can be used to more reliably seal tapered threads. When installing the device, set slight slope eyeliners (from 5 to 10 mm). Tighten everything union nuts, placing a cloth under the key in advance so that there are no scratches. Place special sealing gaskets at the end of the nut. You need to tighten it smoothly and without much effort; if difficulties arise when turning the key, unscrew the connection and align the elements to be connected evenly. After screwing the nut all the way, tighten it a little, but do not overdo it so as not to strip the thread.
- Having completed the assembly, you can supply water to the heated towel rail. Open the water supply gradually. Open the valve on the jumper slightly to release air from the pipes. When water starts dripping, you can close it. Take a good look and smooth all threaded connections and welds by hand to detect leaks.
How to connect an electric heated towel rail
An electric heated towel rail is a household heating device that does not require a special connection to the water supply. Installation of such equipment is much simpler, but it is necessary to ensure complete electrical insulation, since in the bathroom, current leakage can pose a great threat to human life. Grounding should be done and also connected for reliable protection from any voltage surges.
As a rule, the outlet is located outside the bathroom, but a device without a thermostat can easily be plugged into an outlet in the bathroom. If necessary, it can be removed from the outlet at any time in order to reduce electricity consumption. The socket must have a cover for insulation and a special moisture-proof housing, and all wires are hidden in a groove.
It is prohibited to install an outlet on a wall that faces the street, as this may cause short circuits due to the formation of condensation.
After reading of this material installing a heated towel rail will definitely not be scary for you!
Installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom yourself will help increase comfort and make hygiene procedures even more enjoyable. You can perform all operations yourself if you follow safety rules and follow the advice of specialists. And it is equally important to choose the product wisely.
First of all, heated towel rails should be classified in terms of the type of energy used.
- TO heating system or hot water lines are connected water models.
- Do not depend on the hot water supply mode and operate at any time electrical products.
- Combined modifications have the advantages of both water and electric, thus being universal. They will continue to work during periods of hot water outage.
Structurally, there are two most common types of products:
- the familiar coil
- models resembling a staircase with horizontal steps.
Choosing a method for connecting heated towel rails
Installation of a water heated towel rail or its analogue with a combined operating principle can be carried out by connecting to a hot water supply or to a heating system. Experts recommend giving preference to the first method.
- Hot water supply is supplied year-round, with the exception of periods of repair and pressure testing. The heating system coolant can only be used during the cold season.
- Do-it-yourself installation of a heated towel rail with a connection to the heating system must necessarily involve the installation of a bypass bypass. Otherwise, repair or replacement of the product in winter time become impossible - turning off the heating riser when sub-zero temperature may cause the system to freeze.
Important: Installing a bypass is recommended in any case. The ability to disconnect the device from the system (DHW or heating) without disrupting the circulation allows, if necessary, to carry out any work without coordination with utility services.
Equipment and materials
When thinking about how to install a heated towel rail, you should take into account that Work will require temporary shutdown of hot water supply. To do this, you will need to contact the utility service with an application and pay the cost of the service. The price directly depends on the duration of the shutdown period. Therefore, it is important not only to agree on the shutdown time, but also to prepare everything necessary for installation in advance to avoid unnecessary delays.
Dismantling old design can be done using spanner wrenches of the appropriate diameter, but in the absence of threaded connections or in the case when they have become “stuck” after many years of use, it may be necessary to cut out the old heated towel rail from the system (using a grinder, a hacksaw, etc.).
Experts recommend when replacing a heated towel rail replace all old supply pipes with polypropylene ones. They are durable and not subject to corrosion, and at the same time they cost much less than copper ones, which have similar performance qualities.
Thus, in addition to the product itself and brackets for mounting it (they are usually included in the kit, but this must be checked when purchasing), you will need:
- soldering iron for their installation,
- special scissors or cutting knife,
- ball valves for turning off the water supply to the heated towel rail (2 or 3 pieces),
- fitting,
- sanitary sealing paste, sanitary flax.
Read also: We select from the water main.
Connection technology
After the water supply is turned off, work on installing the heated towel rail is carried out in stages.
Important: Installation of the heated towel rail and connection to communications is carried out with sealing of the joints.
The installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom can be considered high quality if, when connecting the water supply, all connections remain dry.
If you choose a combined model, then installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom yourself also includes connecting to the electrical network. The work is carried out according to the same rules as the installation of electrical models.
I would like to note why it may be interesting self-replacement heated towel rail in the bathroom - the price for work from various companies will be approximately 500 rubles for dismantling and from 1200/4800 rubles for installation of a heated towel rail without a bypass and with it, respectively.
Connecting energy-consuming models
Energy-consuming (electric and combined heated towel rails) require electrical wiring in a room with high humidity Therefore, you should take on such work only if you have the appropriate experience and understand the degree of responsibility. If in doubt, it is better to contact a specialist.
Criteria for choosing electric heated towel rails
In the bathroom, replacing a heated towel rail with your own hands is done in order to increase comfort, which means that when choosing a model, you should take it into account specifications and the requirements.
You can buy a cheaper, but less powerful unit if it is intended to be used only for direct purpose. If you expect that the heated towel rail will also heat the air in the bathroom, choose a more powerful model.
Different types of products have their own operating nuances:
- Oil-filled products take a long time to warm up, but when switched off, they retain their temperature for a long time.
- Cable heated towel rails have much shorter heating and cooling periods.
The installation of various products also has its own characteristics, which should be taken into account when purchasing so that there are no problems during the installation stage:
- Oil products must be fixed in a certain position and must be grounded.
- Cable models are not picky about the choice of position, and for their safety, if it is impossible to ground, you can ground the equipment.
To increase safety, it is preferable to choose a hidden type of electrical wiring.
General rules for installing volatile heated towel rails
Connecting a heated towel rail of this type with your own hands requires the presence of a separate (as for a powerful consumer) socket and the presence of a circuit breaker (for protective shutdown of equipment).
If the heated towel rail socket will be placed in the bathroom, you should definitely choose a waterproof model (they always have a protective cover, and during installation they are “recessed” into the surface).
If you are thinking about how to do it, then our instruction article will be useful to you.
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Installing a heated towel rail: video
Self-installation of a coil in the bathroom is shown in the video.
Photo
Shown here in the photo are wall-mounted heated towel rails for the bathroom and their installation.
How to organize the connection of a heated towel rail without the help of a specialist? Step-by-step instructions will make it possible to simplify the process of installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom as much as possible, and successfully cope with this task in just 2 hours.
A properly functioning heated towel rail in the bathroom is a functional device that creates a favorable microclimate that prevents the appearance of fungus, dampness or mold. In general, installing a heated towel rail is a simple process, so you can easily do it in just a couple of hours with your own hands, without involving a plumber.
Modern models come in L-, P-, F-, M-shaped, as well as in the form of a ladder, on which it is convenient to dry towels and linen.
There are 3 types of devices on the market:
- electrical;
- water;
- combined.
The most effective is a water dryer, the installation of which is provided in one of two methods: to the hot water supply system or to heating pipes. Since it is the most common option, we will consider in detail the procedure for installing it.
How to choose a water heated towel rail: video
Necessary materials and equipment
- Dryer;
- Bulgarian;
- hammer drill;
- building level;
- pencil;
- adjustable wrench;
- mounting brackets;
- pipes and fittings;
- welding machine;
- Ball Valves;
- FUM tape.
Installing a heated towel rail: possible connection options
The heated towel rail connection diagram provides one of two possible options pipe inserts:
- to DHW;
- to the heating system.
The first option is preferable, allowing you to use the dryer almost all year round, and not just during the heating season. When connected to a heating system, the dryer will only work in the cold season. In addition, installing a heated towel rail in a heating system is more complicated, since it is necessary to completely turn off the heat in the house and drain the water from the pipes, and this is not recommended in severe frosts, so as not to freeze the entire riser.
Possible connection methods:
- at the top - on one side of the equipment, heated water is supplied through the inlet from above, and discharged from the other side from below;
- at the bottom - the device has an inlet at one end for supplying water from below, and at the reverse side branch is located;
- bottom center - input/output directed to the bottom crossbar;
- diagonal - water enters from one side from above, and is discharged diagonally at the bottom;
- single point - connection is made from one point below.
Important! The heated towel rail will not be able to function if the hot water input is from above and the outlet is on the same side, but from below. In this case, there will be no water flow circulation and the equipment will not heat up!
Installing a heated towel rail with a side connection looks most aesthetically pleasing, although installation will be somewhat more complicated and the connections will need to be carefully insulated. This option is preferable if the pipes in the bathroom are recessed as much as possible into the wall surface, with the exception of external outlets. Often, a heated towel rail that has been preserved from Soviet times is dismantled; to replace it, a model of the same diameter is selected, which will be connected below.
Procedure for connecting to DHW
Stage I. The heated towel rail is being dismantled.
The water is drained from the equipment, after which it is carefully removed from the old brackets. It is quite easy to remove the device with your own hands: unscrew it from the hot water supply pipe or carefully cut it with a grinder (if the product is welded).
When cutting, it is important to leave a length of pipe that will be sufficient for cutting future threads. After this, markings of the installation site are drawn.
Attention! Dismantling in apartment buildings carried out only after turning off the water supply! The work is coordinated with the housing office.
Stage II. Installation of ball valves, bypass.
Essentially, a bypass is a piece of pipe with special connecting elements. You install ball valves at the ends of the dryer yourself - with their help you can shut off the flow of water in case of an accident or repair work. Of course, installing a heated towel rail is possible without a jumper, but it is still recommended to use a bypass so that you can close it in case of repairs. ball valve only in one apartment, and not in the entire building.
Both ferrous metal and copper, metal-plastic or plastic can be used as pipes. At the same time, when connecting a water heated towel rail to the hot water supply pipes, it is important to maintain the distance from the pipe to the adjacent wall - for a water supply pipe with a diameter of 40–50 mm, there should be 50-55 mm to the wall, and if the diameter is up to 23 mm, then the distance must be maintained 35 mm.
Stage III. Fastening brackets and dryer.
The supports are mounted into the wall - later the dryer will be hung on them. If you need to make holes in the wall where the tiles lie, use a drill with a special drill, then insert plastic dowels into the holes and screw in the screws.
Attention! It is forbidden to weld the heated towel rail to the supports! This may cause thermal deformations.
After this, all that remains is to connect the equipment to the riser:
- using fittings, the product is connected to valves located on the jumper;
- fastenings are tightened;
- threaded connections are sealed.
Once the hanging is completed, the tightness of the connections is checked. The taps open very smoothly to avoid water hammer. Under no circumstances should there be moisture, drops, etc. on the surface.
Connecting an electric heated towel rail
Electric dryer is a household heating device, which does not require insertion into the water supply system. Installation of equipment is much simpler, but it is imperative to ensure complete isolation of electricity, since in the bathroom any current leakage can pose a threat to life. It is necessary to ground and connect an RCD to protect against voltage surges.
In general, it is recommended that the outlet be located outside the bathroom, but a device without a thermostat can be connected to an outlet located in the bathroom. If necessary, it can be removed from the socket to reduce energy consumption. The socket must have a moisture-proof housing and a cover for insulation, and the wires must be hidden in a groove. It is prohibited to install the socket on a wall facing the street - this may cause short circuits due to condensation.
If your “towel” is 15-20 years old, it’s probably appearance causes despondency. And after getting acquainted with its modern counterparts, there is a desire to install this chrome-plated snake-like miracle in your bathroom.
To make this desire come true, there are two options:
- Invite specialists to replace the heated towel rail.
- Install the heated towel rail yourself.
Whichever option you choose, read this article to the end. If hired workers install, you will be able to properly monitor their work. When self-installation, You'll get step by step instructions on the topic “How to connect a water heated towel rail” and easily cope with this work.
The heated towel rail is connected to the hot water supply system. This guarantees its heating all year round and around the clock. Connection to the heating system is undesirable, since hot water is available there only during heating season. And getting permission in winter to tap into heating pipes is unrealistic - you can freeze the riser. If you plan to install the heated towel rail in a room where there is no water supply, you will have to first install water pipes from the riser to the desired location.
The general strategy for replacing a heated towel rail is as follows: disconnect the riser from the water, remove the old product, install a jumper, and install ball valves at the junction with the heated towel rail. After this, you can turn on the riser and carry out further work.
Keep in mind that you will have to pay the Management Company to turn off the riser and the longer the shutdown period, the higher the fee.
When replacing a heated towel rail, the connection to it can be hidden in the wall and then covered with tiles or panels. It will look very nice!
List of works and materials required for installation
What will you need?
Necessary materials and tools you will need:
- The product itself;
- The brackets on which it is installed;
- Polypropylene pipes;
- Apparatus for welding them;
- Knife for cutting polypropylene;
- Polypropylene couplings and fittings;
- 2 or 3 ball valves.
What do we do?
Now we list the steps that you will have to go through when replacing a heated towel rail:
- Dismantling a used heated towel rail;
- Installation of jumper (bypass) and ball valves;
- Welding polypropylene pipes;
- Installation and connection of a heated towel rail.
Video: about buying heated towel rails
Dismantling a used heated towel rail
Before starting work, you must write an application to the Management Company to shut off the hot water in your riser and agree on this for a specific time.
Once there is no water in the riser, you can remove the old heated towel rail.
Installation of jumper (bypass) and ball valves
The jumper is your lifesaver for unforeseen situations. Its installation is not required, but highly recommended.
Imagine that a leak has appeared at the connection points of the heated towel rail, which is becoming more intense every minute. Call to emergency service and wait at least an hour for their arrival? Or you need to replace your heated towel rail. Run to again Management Company and wait for the hot water in the riser to be turned off?
In order not to depend on such situations, a jumper is installed. It is an ordinary (in our case polypropylene) pipe. To install it, ball valves are mounted at the ends of the heated towel rail, which, if necessary, shut off the flow of water through it. With the jumper installed, the circulation of water in the riser does not stop even if the heated towel rail is turned off.
Common connection diagrams for heated towel rails:
Welding of polypropylene pipes
We will connect the heated towel rail using polypropylene pipes. Why polypropylene? This is the best option.
The most common materials for supply pipes are steel, copper, and polypropylene:
- Steel pipes They are heavy, susceptible to corrosion, and require a welding machine for installation.
- Copper do not rust, but are very expensive and are mounted by soldering.
- Polypropylene are not subject to corrosion, are cheap, and light in weight. Reinforcement with special fiber significantly increases their strength and resistance to high temperatures. The presence of a variety of fittings makes it easy to connect polypropylene with metal pipes. They are very easy to install. For this, there are special welding devices that you can master in just half an hour and easily make high-quality connections. In addition, these devices can be rented from most stores that sell plastic pipes and building materials. This service costs approximately 400 rubles per day.
Read more about soldering and installation of polypropylene pipes.
Installation and connection of a new heated towel rail
How to connect a water heated towel rail to hot water supply is regulated in SNiP 2-04-01-85. If interested, this SNiP can be easily found on the Internet.
The process of installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom and connecting it to plastic pipes pretty simple. Their ends are connected using a welding device with a polypropylene pipe.
When installing a heated towel rail, it is necessary to maintain the slope of the supply pipe, which must be made in the direction of movement of hot water. It is in the range of 5-10 mm throughout the entire liner. Water must pass through the heated towel rail from top to bottom, so the supply riser should be connected to the upper socket of the heated towel rail.
The maximum distances that must be maintained between the heated towel rail and the tiled or plastered wall surface are also regulated. They are:
- 35 mm – for pipes with a diameter of no more than 23 mm;
- 50 mm – for pipes with a diameter of more than 23 mm.
In order not to subject the walls to unnecessary loads due to temperature deformations of heated supply pipes, the entire system is not fixed rigidly, but on supporting brackets.
After completing the work, it is necessary to check all connections - they must be completely dry.
Video: example of connecting a heated towel rail
