Fighting black aphids. Methods of struggle. Fighting shoot aphids

People say: “To win, you need to know the enemy by sight.” And in order to get rid of aphids in a garden or vegetable garden, you need to know their development cycle and be sure not to miss the period that is most sensitive to pests. For example: it is useless to spray plants if eggs have already been laid on them. They are protected from the effects of poison, they do not use processed plants for food (they do not gnaw or suck the juice from plants), which means they are not afraid of poison. Processing of plants was carried out in vain. You need to wait until the larvae hatch, and then the pest is destroyed by spraying by 70-100%. It is the larvae, feeding day and night, that cause greatest harm plants.

Aphid(Aphidoidea) - superfamily of insects. About 4,000 species of aphids are known, of which almost a thousand live in Europe. All aphids feed on plant juices, many are dangerous pests cultivated plants. In addition, many species are capable of spreading plant diseases in the form of viruses and causing various abnormalities in plants, such as galls and gall-like formations.

I propose to consider the development cycle of aphids and determine the stages of development that are most vulnerable to drug treatments.

Aphid development cycle

An adult fertilized female aphid lays overwintering eggs on branches and bark of trees, perennial shoots of shrubs, trying to place them near the buds, on sprouts. The eggs are oblong-oval, black, up to 0.5 mm long, visible to the naked eye. “Knowing” that it is warm under the snow, the female aphid lays eggs on root shoots and weeds. When wintering under the snow, almost all clutches survive. Aphids and “household” ants take care of the eggs, taking the eggs into their underground homes until spring, and in the spring, with the onset of warmth, they spread the eggs to old branches, young shoots, and leave them on young leaves.

From overwintered eggs, several generations (2-4-8) of wingless females develop, the reproduction of which takes place without males. In June-July, winged forms of disperser aphids appear. Aphids scatter, especially with a fair wind, up to 25 km, and settle in similar crops. These are monoecious aphids, and there are also species with a dioecious development cycle. They begin spring development on the main host, with the appearance of winged forms on summer period fly to nurseries (second owner) – various herbaceous plants, weeds, vegetable crops and return in the fall to lay eggs to the main host. In the fall, after mating, the female aphid lays fertilized overwintering eggs.

Gloomy statistics! Each female lays up to 100 eggs for the winter. Of these, 100 females develop, which mature in 1.5-2.0 weeks and themselves lay an average of 100 eggs. During the growing season, one female is capable of increasing the offspring of up to 15-20 thousand pests per season.

Thus, aphids have 3 most vulnerable periods when their destruction will contribute to an overall reduction in the number of these pests in the garden: thorough autumn preparation to wintering, the period of flight of female dispersers, the appearance of winged males and return to the owner. This does not mean that trees do not need to be treated the rest of the time. Hatching occurs every 2 weeks and processing of trees and shrubs accordingly. 3 allocated periods – maximum application damage, during this period maximum attention and mandatory treatment of plants is necessary.

Preventive measures to combat aphids

Autumn preparation of the garden for wintering

• remove all weeds under the tree crowns, cut out the root shoots, take them outside the garden and destroy them or send them to a compost bin,
• clean the trunks and skeletal branches of trees with freshly prepared lime mortar with addition copper sulfate, clay, PVA glue. In the spring, whitewashing is repeated at the end of February-March. In summer, it is better not to whiten trees, so as not to disrupt the symbiotic-friendly relationship with the natural enemies of aphids and other pests,
• in winter in free time look at the composition of the plantings and remove away from the garden (and the vegetable garden too) such flower crops as poppy, nasturtium, cosmos, chamomile, mallow, chrysanthemums, from garden crops - Jerusalem artichoke and sunflower, from tree crops - viburnum and linden. These are favorite breeding grounds for aphids. Keep away from currants, gooseberries and other berries planting spicy-flavoring crops, salads, chicory,
• During the summer, destroy anthills and in the fall, before frost, dig out wider and fill with solution or just water.

Spring work to protect plants from aphids

• As soon as the snow melts, inspect the garden crops, be sure to sanitary pruning, take out the trash.
• Discovered anthills that have survived since the fall must be destroyed. When the first ants appear on the tree trunks, repeat the whitewashing and spray the trees with the preparation.
• Install trapping belts, soaking them in poisonous powder or solution. Apply special glue to the strain and attach a hunting belt. The ants will not be able to overcome the obstacle and will die, along with the load of aphid eggs.
• Aphids are scary because of their omnivorous nature. More than 4000 thousand species of aphids and absolute majority harms not one, but several crops. Therefore, even before the buds begin to open, it is necessary to carry out the first spraying of all fruit trees with solutions of nicotine sulfate or nitrophen at a dose recommended in explanatory note to the drug. Use more modern drugs, recommended in your region.
• Since berries produce crops early (raspberries, currants, gooseberries, etc.), before buds begin to bloom, bathe them in hot water (70-80 degrees) without pesticides.
• In spring and summer, do not overfeed plants with nitrogen. The enhanced development of young vegetative mass will provide aphids with a comfortable life, while elastic leaves and young shoots with dense skin are inaccessible to them.
• During this period, the optimal watering is sprinkling. It will wash away the honeydew, which attracts ants, aphid eggs and the aphids themselves, which, once on the ground, die. There is no need to once again treat trees with pesticides. Stop irrigation by sprinkling and switch to the ground method only during flowering, so as not to wet the pollen.

Summer work

With blossoming leaf buds, with the swelling of buds and the beginning of flowering, they move on to the systematic processing of trees and berry fields. Despite the wide variety of aphids, and in the summer they are joined by other pests, the number of treatments can be reduced if they are carried out with tank mixtures of insecticides.

Active measures to combat aphids

Use of chemicals

Chemical preparations (insecticides) are divided into 3 groups according to the method of influencing aphids and other pests:

• systemic,
• intestinal,
• contact.

If you combine drugs from all methods of exposure in a tank mixture, then 3 (three) sprayings per season will be sufficient:

• before flowering in the beginning of budding phase,
• after flowering in the phase of the beginning of ovary growth,
• 25-30 days before harvest.

Please note that chemical insecticides will destroy not only pests, but also helpers– birds, beneficial insects, and will also have a negative impact on households and animals. Chemicals used to kill pests are removed from plants after 3-5 weeks. The use of fruits earlier than the specified period is strictly prohibited.

Chemicals to control aphids

The most famous insecticides with quick effect destruction are actofite, karbofos, intavir, actara, spark, tanrek, commander and a number of others. The list of insecticides approved for use is supplemented and changed annually. It can be found in the relevant catalogs and reference books. The recommendations, along with the characteristics, provide norms and methods of application, spraying periods.

When working with chemical insecticides, it is necessary to wear protective clothing, gloves, goggles and a respirator. They should be used only as recommended. Increasing the dose and shortening the waiting period until the next treatment will not provide the expected positive effect. Knowing them Negative influence For health reasons, in small gardens and berry fields it is better to use biological preparations.

Biological preparations to combat aphids

Biological products have a period of influence on the pest’s body of 10-15 days, but they are absolutely harmless to people, birds and animals and can be sprayed on plants until harvesting, which is very convenient for multi-harvest crops. After treating the plants with some biological preparations, the fruits can be used for food within 2-3 days.

The most familiar bioinsecticides include bitoxybacillin, acarin, spark-BIO and others. They are based on living beneficial microorganisms (various groups of fungi and bacteria). Bioinsecticides are effective not only in protecting plants from aphids, but also other pests. The duration of action of bioinsecticides is 10-20 days and therefore spraying must be repeated. But these biological products are absolutely harmless to adults, children, animals, birds and beneficial insects. Dilution rates and processing times are indicated on the packaging or in practical recommendations.

Bioinsecticides that can be used even during plant flowering include bioinsecticide trichopolum(a drug used in official pharmacology as a remedy for bacterial infection). For spraying, dissolve 20 tablets in 10 liters of water. Compatible with many other biological products, but still requires compatibility testing. Trichopolum can be sprayed not only on trees and shrubs, but also on vegetable crops (tomatoes, cucumbers, dill, etc.). The duration of action is limited by precipitation, but immediately after the rain stops, spraying the plants can be repeated. You can work with the solution without special clothing. The drug is remarkable in that it simultaneously destroys fungal diseases of crops along with pests.

Biological product "arrow" contains bitoxybacillin. Suitable for processing all garden crops, garden and greenhouse. The biological product, in addition to its negative impact on aphids and other pests, is also a fertilizer for greenhouse and garden crops. The duration of action of the biological product is 2-3 weeks, after which the treatment must be repeated. To prepare the solution, dissolve 50 g of the powdered drug in 10 liters of water and stir thoroughly. Can be used in tank mixes after compatibility testing.

Human protection when processing plants is limited to goggles and gloves. Spraying can be done during flowering. The aphid dies within 2 days. The biological product is recommended for use from early spring until harvest. The waiting period is 5-6 days, after which fruits and vegetables can be eaten. In addition to the above listed and described bioinsecticides, new, more effective biological products appear every year. IN household Chemical insecticides and other chemicals are not recommended.

In addition to chemical and biological agents for pest control, we can offer traditional methods getting rid of harmful insects.

If you decide to use traditional methods to control aphids and related pests, you need to prepare the necessary ingredients in the fall: onion peels along with unnecessary heads, garlic, potato tops, dandelion roots, ash, laundry soap. If there are children in the family, infusions and decoctions of poisonous herbs should not be used. These infusions are poisonous not only to pests of garden crops, but also to humans.

• Ash-soap solution. Pour 2-3 cups of ash into 10 liters of warm water, leave for 2-3 days, strain, dissolve a piece of finely grated laundry soap and sprinkle during the budding period of fruit and berry crops.
• Garlic-dandelion infusion. Soak finely chopped dandelion plants (green mass and roots) and heads of garlic, 400 and 200 g, respectively, in 10 liters of warm water. Leave the mixture to infuse for 2-3 hours, strain and use for spraying during the budding phase and after flowering.
• Onion peels together with garlic(you can also use heads) finely chop, add warm water. Leave for 2-3 days. Strain, dilute the resulting solution 3 times and use it for spraying, and send the fermented mass to the compost pit.

There are hundreds of such tips on the Internet, but be careful. You cannot prepare decoctions and infusions from poisonous herbs at home.(hemlock) and spray crops with them. Someone in the family may eat a fruit or vegetable and get poisoned.

Aphids are a gentle pest and cannot tolerate strong, repulsive, spicy odors. Fennel, garlic, marigolds, and mint repel the pest, and petunia, mallow, begonia, and nasturtium attract it with their aroma. Plant the first ones in row-spacings along the edge of the beds, and the second ones further away. Your favorite scent will attract aphids. But in the fall, the above-ground mass of these flowering plants must be destroyed, since aphids place their overwintering oviposition on them. By the way, viburnum, bird cherry, and linden are very attractive objects for aphids. Use them in distant (from the vegetable garden) landscape plantings.

People say that without a nightingale, spring is poor, and a garden without a bird is an orphan. Decorate your garden with birdhouses, and propagate calendula for ladybugs (the worst enemies of aphids). For lacewings, hoverflies, wasps, ground beetles and other insects, caraway seeds, parsley, marigolds, navel, dill, and coriander are suitable. The less chemicals are used in the garden, the more nests of kinglets, warblers, tits, and wagtails will appear, which will be happy to help you clean the garden of pests. The choice is yours - to be on friendly terms with nature and not poison it with pesticides, or to be alone in a clean but “dead” garden.

19.03.2016

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Aphids are not only green, but if you see small dark gray or greenish-brown insects on leaves and stems in your garden and beds, you know that they are black aphids. It happens different types, for example, there is a viburnum aphid. Or black cherry. All of them are very harmful to plants, so it is necessary to fight black aphids.

You will need
- tobacco dust;
- ash;
- clay;
- lime;
- solution washing powder or soap.

Instructions:

1
Black aphids, like green aphids, are very afraid of pollination with pure ash or mixed with tobacco dust. Therefore, try treating small bushes with this composition. But it will be difficult to rid trees of black aphids using this method, because they are tall.

2
This is how you can fight black aphids on cherries, viburnums and plums. Pour soapy water under the root several times after washing. It could even be water with washing powder. In a few days the aphids will go away. She certainly won't like the sap from treated trees.

3
To prevent black or green aphids from appearing on plants in the garden in the summer, carry out preventive measures. This is a mandatory whitewashing of tree trunks with a solution of lime and clay. Take 2-3 kg of clay and 1 kg of slaked lime per 10 liters of water. Hunting belts on trunks also help a lot garden trees. You can purchase them in a special store for gardeners and gardeners. When watering trees, let the stream flow directly into the crown; the water will wash away some of the harmful insects.

Note!!!

Do not use chemicals, you will also destroy beneficial insects, for example, the ladybug, which destroys aphids. Therefore, it is better to fight black aphids without chemicals.

It is not necessary to use strong chemicals to combat aphids. It can leave behind unpleasant consequences.

It is better to prepare infusions and decoctions of plants. It is good to use green potato tops, tobacco, yarrow, chamomile, and garlic to combat aphids.

There are also very effective solutions for combating aphids, which consist not only of herbal decoctions.

✔Recipe first.
Mix slaked lime or ash with tobacco dust in a 1:1 ratio. Add 200 g of onion peel to the mixture and fill with warm water. It's better to do this in a bucket. Fill the bucket to the top.

This solution should sit for approximately five days. After this, strain the infusion.
This infusion must be sprayed on the foliage several times until the aphids disappear.

But aphids can attack more than just trees. Garden greens are often the target of aphid attacks. Moreover, it is not advisable to treat greens with any chemicals.

✔Recipe two.
To get rid of aphids, take one and a half glasses wood ash, scald it with boiling water, dilute it in 10 liters hot water. Now all that remains is to add a tablespoon of soap and stir well. Strain and spray the greens on which aphids have bred.
Do not wash off the solution for about a week. And then use a watering can to water the greens to wash the plants.

✔Recipe three.
Plants can be treated not only with solutions. There is a fairly effective dry processing method.
For it you need to make a mixture of ground pepper (one tablespoon), sifted ash (one tablespoon) and dry mustard (one tablespoon). That is, the ingredients should be equal. Mix the resulting mixture well. You need to sew a small bag from gauze. The gauze needs to be folded in two layers. You need to pour the mixture into this bag and treat the plants, carefully dusting them.

After a week, wash off the powder by watering the plants from a watering can. To rinse off the mixture well, you need to pour it at least twice, taking a break for two hours.

Black aphid. How to fight. Advice from Alexey Chatsky

If we're talking about about aphids in the garden: plant umbrella plants - carrots, dill, fennel, parsley and others. Thus, you will attract tireless aphid eaters - hoverflies - to the garden. Place in the garden flower pots with wood shavings - earwigs can live in them, they are also big fans of aphids for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Attract birds to the garden - arrange feeders and birdhouses for them, do not destroy the nests found in the garden, birds eat aphids in huge quantities.

Lavender planted in a rose garden will repel green aphids.

Thyme (savory), sown next to legumes, will protect them from black aphids.

IN tree trunk circle Sow cherries with nasturtium - it will attract black aphids, reducing the load on the tree, and it’s easier to fight aphids on nasturtium than on a tree.

Do not overuse chemicals unless absolutely necessary - together with the pests, you destroy their enemies: hoverflies, earwigs, ladybugs, lacewings, ichneumon wasps, ground beetles and predatory bugs.

Balanced feeding of plants is very important - aphids prefer plants that are overfed or weak from a lack of nutrients.

Except proper fertilizing strong healthy plant necessary right choice places of growth, a sufficient amount of light and water, good air circulation - all this is also prevention against small parasites. It is important to loosen the soil under the plants, or better yet, mulch.

Abundant watering liquid fertilizer from nettles sometimes allows you to expel aphids in a few days. Plants quickly absorb this nutritious, strengthening mixture and therefore, after a short time, become more resistant to pests.

Aphids can destroy a plant in a few weeks.

On forums for amateur gardeners, questions are often asked about what aphids are and how to recognize the pest. In fact, detecting the insect is quite simple. The size of a representative of the order Hemiptera, as a rule, does not exceed two millimeters. Has a characteristic soft egg-shaped. When pressed, it crushes easily. Aphids move quite slowly. The insect has long legs.

There are wingless individuals and pests with wings. The female of wingless insects has an elongated oral apparatus. The elongated body structure becomes noticeably thicker in the anterior part.

Winged varieties have 2 pairs of wings. Capable of moving quickly and infecting other plants.

Aphids are one of the most prolific pests. A female without wings is capable of producing about one hundred and fifty larvae twice a month for six months. One fertilization is enough for this.

Occurs adult insect black and green shade. During the warm season, some varieties of aphids grow wings. Pests can travel long distances in search of food.

The pest can live and reproduce in all parts of the plant.

Aphids primarily attack stems, buds, and lower leaf blades. Pests also destroy the apical parts of young shoots and fattening branches.

Aphids are one of the most numerous categories of pests. More than four thousand species of insects are known. About one thousand species of aphids live in temperate climates. Every year new species are added to the list.

Reproduction methods and movement through the air

Depending on the group, aphids may lay eggs or give birth to larvae. The vast majority of aphids can reproduce without fertilization (parthenogenesis).

IN unfavorable conditions one of the generations of aphids may appear heterosexual and winged. Mutation is promoted by a change in host plant and too rapid spread of the colony. Overpopulation of insects also affects the offspring. Individuals with developed aircraft can travel long distances. A huge number of colonies will appear on a new crop in just a few weeks.

Aphid with wings.

Scientists also associate the appearance of winged individuals with the special aromatic substances of aphids. Pests use protective components in times of danger. For example, when attacked by a ladybug.

The component serves as a warning signal. Increased anxiety and activity appears in the colony. The result is an overpopulation effect. Which, in turn, affects the rapid reproduction of winged varieties.

Danger of aphids

Often the degree of damage caused by aphids to a plant is significantly underestimated. The insect feeds on vital sap from leaves, stems, buds and buds. In the affected culture you can see:

1. deformed shoots and leaves;
2. twisted vegetative organs;
3. growth slowdown;
4. lack of harvest due to non-ripening of fruits.

A weakened culture loses its stamina. IN winter time year for open area Frost resistance may be significantly reduced. The plant often dies.

insect on initial stage lesions can be found on the underside of the leaflet.

Aphids on indoor flowers, garden and vegetable crops leaves excrement. Black sooty fungus, also known as black sooty mildew, may appear on sugary secretions. Cure a plant from a dangerous viral disease It's hard enough.

To suck out the sap, the aphid pierces the integument of the plant. In areas of mass destruction, tissues initially lose their elasticity, become deformed, and then die.

If the flower arrow is damaged, inflorescences are not formed. The buds will wither without opening. The peduncle eventually fades.

The sugary secretions of aphids contain excess carbohydrates and moisture. The substance is also called honeydew or honeydew. The sweet, sticky consistency densely coats various areas of the crop. This significantly complicates breathing and gas exchange. A decrease in the intensity of photosynthesis, as well as infection by various fungi, significantly inhibits the weakened culture.

Additional information about the pest can be found in the video:

Aphids on indoor plants and in the garden - how to recognize the pest

Insects can be seen with the naked eye. Already on initial stage lesions, it is quite easy to see several signs of pest settlement - characteristic curling of leaves, deformation of various areas and the appearance of a sweet coating on vegetative organs.

A large number of ants sometimes appear in an open area. A group of insects are attracted to sugary secretions.

Scientists have proven that ants and aphids have a close relationship. Some varieties support mutually beneficial mutualism (symbiosis). Ants protect aphids. In return, a characteristic discharge with a high concentration of sugar is obtained.

Aphids live in large groups on the lower parts of vegetative organs. Pests can be found directly next to the growing points, on young buds, shoots, and pedicels.

Various areas of affected plants curl and turn yellow. Nodules (convex hardenings) form. The buds stop developing. Deformed or malformed inflorescences may be produced.

The pest can settle on most types of indoor, garden and vegetable crops.

Indoor flora representatives - fuchsias, carnations, roses - are especially susceptible to attack by aphids. Representatives of the Araceae family, bulbous and forcing plants are also damaged.

Aphids on orchids often cause galls and gall-like formations.

Insect preferences

Aphids can appear on almost all representatives of the flora. It is necessary to inspect plants in a timely manner and use them at the first sign. effective methods struggle.

Individual insect species have their own preferences. Shrubs are especially attractive to green aphids. fruit trees, chrysanthemums, roses and the vast majority of indoor plants.

Black aphids settle primarily on garden cornflower and all representatives of the Legume family.

Preventive actions

It is necessary to carefully inspect the plant before purchasing. Aphids can hide in living bouquets. Before planting in the garden or bringing into the house, you need to carry out preventive treatment. It is advisable to place the houseplant in an insulator for several days.

Umbrella plants will help get rid of aphids. To destroy the pest, you can plant fennel, dill, parsley and carrots on the site. Crops attract natural defenders of green spaces from aphids - hoverflies.

Eating aphids by ladybugs.

Wood shavings are an excellent habitat for earwigs. The omnivorous insect copes well with numerous colonies of the pest.

You can also encourage birds to settle on the site. To do this, you should place several birdhouses and feeders in the garden. Birds can eat large numbers of aphids.

If an aphid has settled on a fruit or decorative tree, you can plant a lovely nasturtium in the tree trunk area. The plant will distract the pest's attention. Getting rid of an insect on a flower is much easier.

It is not recommended to immediately resort to using strong chemical substances. Chemicals also kill beneficial insects. Will die ladybugs, earwigs, hoverflies, lacewings, ground beetles, wasps and predatory bugs.

It is necessary to strictly adhere to the concentration of fertilizers. Aphids look for plants with depleted substrate due to a lack of nutritional components. The pest also settles on overfed crops.

To maintain stability and endurance, it is recommended to provide the correct location for the flower. Good air circulation, adequate water and lighting should be provided regularly.

It is necessary to regularly loosen the substrate after watering. Using the procedure, you can increase the water permeability of the soil. Strengthens defensive reaction plants also have a thick layer of mulch.

All-season methods of control

In autumn on garden plot follows:

1. Put away upper layer weed control substrate.
2. Remove all root growth and destroy outside the site.
3. Whitewash the skeletal branches of trees with lime mortar.

In early spring, you need to reconsider the proximity of plants. Nasturtium, poppy, cosmos, mallow, chamomile and chrysanthemum should be removed from the site. It is advisable to eradicate sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke from the garden plot. Aphids are also attracted to linden and viburnum. It is not recommended to plant chicory and lettuce next to gooseberries, currants.

In summer, it is advisable to destroy all anthills. In late autumn, you need to dig out the ants’ favorite place and fill it with big amount water.

It is not advisable to use fertilizers with a high concentration of nitrogen for feeding.

After the snow melts, you will need to carry out sanitary cleaning and remove garbage from the site. After the first signs of ants appear, whitewashing should be repeated. It is recommended to use special traps to catch insects. Before the buds begin to bloom, everything should be treated fruit bushes and trees with Nitrophen solution.

It is not advisable to use fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. Sprinkling is necessary periodically. Abundant watering will wash away not only ants and aphids, but also honeydew.

In summer, after buds open, the plant is especially susceptible to the influence of aphids. It is necessary to regularly inspect and treat the plant with folk remedies.

Home remedies

The following will help get rid of pests and prevent their occurrence:

1. Soap solution with crushed wood ash. You will need ten liters of water and three glasses of ash. After 3 days, you need to dissolve the grated laundry soap in the liquid.
2. Infusion of dandelion and garlic. In 10 liters room temperature you need to soak 200 grams of garlic and 400 grams of the aerial parts of dandelions. The mixture is ready for use after 3 hours.
3. Onion and garlic peels must be placed in warm water. After 3 days, you can use the strained solution for spraying.

The crop should be periodically treated with garlic infusion.

Often on the forum you can read advice about spraying the crop with an infusion or decoction of hemlock. It is strictly forbidden to treat the garden, fruit trees and shrubs with poisonous grass. Eating a vegetable or fruit can cause poisoning.

Use of chemicals

Three categories of drugs have been developed to combat aphids:

1. intestinal;
2. systemic;
3. contact.

For a complex effect, all groups of drugs should be mixed. During one growing season, no more than three sprayings will be required. The procedure should be carried out at the initial stage of budding, after flowering and a month before harvesting the site.

Insecticides will help get rid of the pest.

Biological remedies

They are especially popular for killing aphids. biological agents. They don't provide harmful effects on the environment. The most effective are Akarin, Bitoxibacillin and Iskra-BIO.

Cucumbers and tomatoes are found in almost all gardens, as they are a source of fiber and a large amount useful vitamins and microelements.

At the time of cultivation, gardeners may encounter a situation where the leaves of cucumbers curl and turn yellow, and after a few days they completely fall off. Tomato leaves may even turn black.

- an insect that attacks various types of plants in entire colonies. There are about 4,000 species of such insects, about 1,000 of them are found in Europe. Its spread occurs due to the fact that some individuals develop wings as they develop.

Studies indicate that one female is capable of laying about 150 larvae every 2 weeks more than 20 times. That is why quite a lot of problems arise when fighting this pest.

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Many summer residents are faced with pests that destroy crops and damage plants.

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What does aphid look like?

As previously noted, there are a large number of varieties of this pest.

Common signs include:

1. The length of the insect does not exceed 1.9 millimeters.
2. The color may vary, with the most common varieties being green and black. White and black are practically no different in their behavior towards plants - both varieties suck out juices, after which the fibers begin to die.
3. The legs, which are very small in size, are clearly visible.
4. Wintering takes place in the phase of wingless females and larvae. At the same time, they hide under the leaves, which are located near the roots. The insect's protection allows it to withstand fairly severe frosts.
5. Pest activation occurs at temperatures environment above 5 degrees. As previously noted, reproduction is active. Therefore, many people recognize aphids by their large colonies.

It should be taken into account that the pest moves from weeds to useful crops almost immediately when food becomes scarce. Winged females can travel long distances, and new colonies of pests appear in the shortest possible time.

White aphid

White aphid has a fairly wide distribution. The size of the insect does not exceed 5 millimeters; most individuals do not have wings. It is practically no different from other varieties, but in some cases it is hardly noticeable.

Black aphid

Many people are familiar with black aphid. It forms large colonies and is very noticeable against the leaves. Note that a variety of black aphids has small size bodies, as a rule, up to 3 millimeters, but winged individuals are very common.

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All gardeners and gardeners know that aphids are one of the most dangerous pests of all that attack a plant.

This insect, which reproduces very quickly, has the following effects:

1. Weeds are initially attacked, but after some time the insect spreads to almost all crops.
2. Aphids suck sap from plants: leaves, stems, buds - all above-ground parts suffer.
3. When affected, the leaves curl and the shoots become deformed. As a result, the growth rate slows down significantly.
4. Some plants that are infested with aphids may not survive the winter. Of course, this point does not apply to cucumbers and tomatoes, but it is worth remembering that aphids from these plants can quickly spread to perennials. The defeat can lead to the fact that the plant will not produce next year good harvest. The pest can overwinter on perennials.
5. An important point is that the pest in question is also a carrier of various viral diseases.
6. In places where aphid colonies develop, the fibers of the leaves and stems die off. Thus, even if a small area of ​​the plant is damaged, it begins to hurt, since the death of fibers leads to the death of others.
7. If flowers are affected, they quickly wither. If flowering does not occur properly, then you should not count on a rich harvest. Flowers are affected at any stage of their development; aphids can appear inside and outside.

We also note that during their life, aphids secrete a sugary suspension that covers almost the entire surface of the plant and prevents it from breathing. The sweet liquid also attracts other insects that can harm the plant. An example is fungi - they cover the entire surface of the plant, slowing down the process of photosynthesis.

How to fight aphids on cucumbers and tomatoes?

This is because the ants tend to the aphids by using their secretions to feed their colony. Therefore, ants protect aphids, hide them in their anthills, and getting rid of the pest in such a situation will be quite difficult.

To others important point let's say that aphids initially spread through weeds, as they overwinter on them. Therefore, it is recommended to weed the beds from time to time.

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The best remedy for aphids

The pest in question can be controlled by using special means. Many of them can be found on sale at very affordable price. In this case, you can use it regardless of which plant the aphid attacked.

Industrial insecticides

To combat aphids, a separate group of pesticides was created, called insecticides. All of them are divided into system and contact subgroups. At the same time, systemic ones are more effective, but they also have side effects. The second type, called contact, is effective only with prolonged exposure.

The most common insecticides are:

1. Fitoverm– the product is available in bottles with a volume of 2, 4, 10 ml or 5 liters. The active substance that affects aphids is aversectin. The active substance is obtained by processing a certain variety of soil fungus. Aversectin has an effect on nervous system individual, after which it dies.
2. Aktara– a drug whose active substance is thiamethoxam. This drug can be found on sale in the form of a suspension or granules. To use the resulting solution, use a spray bottle. Read the details.
3. Metaphos– Recommendations for the use of this drug are that the weather should be calm. The advantage of this drug is its long-lasting effect.
4. Arrow– a drug that can be found on the shelves in 50 gram packages. As practice shows, one package is enough to obtain 10 liters of solution. The active ingredient, which is represented by a gray powder, is well known to almost all gardeners - it is bitoxybacillin. It contains bacterial spores that attack various types of insects. As a result of exposure, insects, including aphids, become ill and lose the ability to feed, resulting in death from starvation. Complete cleansing of the plant occurs in about 10 days.
5. Intavir– a drug whose main active ingredient is cypermethrin. As a rule, the concentration of the main substance is about 4 percent. The drug has a paralyzing effect, that is, it affects the nervous system of pests. It is distributed in the form of powder and tablets, which must be diluted in liquid to obtain a special suspension for spraying. The drug belongs to the group of pyrethroids. These kinds of toxins are found in flowers various plants. When using such a drug, you can significantly increase the plant’s resistance to various pests without damaging it. Intavir has proven itself to be effective in controlling pests on cabbage, for example, with.

You can buy aphid repellent at almost any gardening store. Some are relatively inexpensive.

Folk remedies

As previously noted, there are many different traditional methods, which can be used to control aphids. Treating cucumbers with folk remedies against aphids allows you to reduce the likelihood of damage by these insects without harming the plants.

The most common methods of control are:

1. Wood ash used quite often in combination with laundry soap.
2. Tobacco infusion, which is represented directly by tobacco and shag, is prepared by using 1 liter of water and 40 grams of dry raw materials. It is recommended to infuse these types of components for 2 days, after which 1 liter of water is added again.
3. Onion and garlic tincture can also be used for pest control. To do this, chop 500 grams of garlic and a little onion, pour everything into a jar of water and infuse for at least 5 days.
4. Dandelions – effective remedy against aphids on seedlings, which is prepared by using 600 grams of fresh leaves and 400 grams of crushed roots. They should be soaked in a bucket and kept for 3 hours, after which the product can be used.
5. Celandine also has properties that help slow down the development of aphid colonies. The preparation of such a folk remedy is carried out by using 300 grams of dried leaves, which are infused during the day in a bucket.
6. Yarrow can also be used as a folk remedy. Preparation is carried out by using dried leaves, which are infused in water for several hours.
7. Horse sorrel can be used in making decoctions. Like many other remedies, this one is prepared by using leaves that are infused in water.
8. Tomato tops can also be infused in water.
9. Potato tops added to water, infused for several hours, applied several times to increase efficiency.

When choosing a folk remedy for aphids in the country, you should consider that folk remedies in most cases they can act as a preventive measure. This is due to the fact that they have the desired effect only after prolonged use. Therefore, if the pest attacked suddenly and began to damage the crop, it is best to use chemicals.

Prevention of aphids

They quite often hide aphid eggs in their anthills and, as the weather gets warmer, they begin to move them onto the leaves and then take care of the colonies. That is why many recommend that a specialist first deal with the ants, and only then fight the aphids.

At that moment, while the aphid colony has not yet grown, they can be removed mechanically. However, it is worth remembering that one female can lay more than 2,000 eggs within a month with virtually no fertilization. Therefore, if small colonies of aphids are observed, it is better to treat chemical preparation or folk remedy.

Ladybugs fight quite effectively against the insect in question. Therefore, when using chemicals, care should be taken to ensure that they do not affect the ladybugs.

Conclusion

To summarize, we note the following points:

1. Aphids can cause the death of the entire crop.
2. The insect tolerates winter well and, after a short period of development, can spread from plant to plant due to the appearance of individuals with wings.
3. Even a few larvae or adults can be called the reason for carrying out preventive measures, since reproduction occurs very quickly.
4. Large colonies of ants that appear suddenly may indicate the possibility of aphid colonies developing.
5. Pest control can be effective using special preparations or folk remedies. However, it is worth remembering that the drugs completely kill pests only after a week, folk remedies within a month. During this time, cucumbers and tomatoes may suffer so much that they will die in the future.

That is why you should look under the leaves from time to time. If you identify the pest at the moment of curling and drying of the leaves, then the only effective method fight can become a mechanical collection, after which they apply special drugs or traditional methods.

There is not a single species called "black". This is the collective name of several species that have a dark color: from greenish-brown to black. Some of these insects have wings. Others are wingless. And all of them together prevent plants from developing normally. The choice of how to deal with black aphids sometimes depends on the type of plant on which the aphids have settled.

Where does this group of aphids live?

Like any other, black aphids prefer the juice of young plant shoots, rich in carbohydrates and amino acids. You can meet her anywhere. Black aphids often settle on trees growing in the garden. Wingless insects are brought there by ants, winged ones fly there themselves.

The only group of plants that any aphid does not like to settle on are nightshades. Nobody likes solanine, but nightshades contain a lot of it. But for aphids this alkaloid is not poisonous, just unpleasant. Therefore, in the absence of other sources of food, black aphids settle on tomatoes, potatoes and even eggplants.

Signs of plant infestation by aphids:

• accumulations of insects on the underside of leaves, visible to the naked eye;
• the tops of young shoots covered with small insects;
• the foliage begins to curl into tubes.

The latter occurs if the infection is very strong, and the pests have already sucked out almost all the juices from the shoots.

Methods of destruction

To kill aphids you can use:

• mechanical methods;
• biological methods.

Biological methods are called attracting insects and birds that feed on aphids to the site. Biological methods automatically exclude the use of pesticides, since in this case beneficial insects will also be destroyed.

Mechanical methods include manual collection of insects from low-growing bushes and knocking down pests with a stream of water from trees. It is enough to look at the photo of black aphids clinging to a young shoot to understand: mechanical methods are ineffective.

The use of chemicals and gentler folk remedies are effective. This issue needs to be discussed in more detail.

Chemical industrial insecticides

The preparations can be used in beds under open air. But in order not to harm beneficial insects, it is advisable to use chemicals in closed space. For example, on cucumbers in a greenhouse they often appear different kinds aphids, and beneficial insects are in no hurry to enter the room. You can get rid of black aphids using three types of poisons:

• Karbofos. Contact poison. Penetrates under the skin of the insect. Harmless to eggs. It has restrictions on the timing of application: it is necessary to spray before the plants bloom. Diluted according to instructions.
• Actellik. Works when penetrating intestinal tract insect. Poisons of this type are often combined with analogues of Karbofos. Diluted according to instructions.
• Biotlin. This third type of poison is the most dangerous not only for pests, but also for humans. When processed, they penetrate the plants and remain there for several weeks. Their advantage is that they destroy not only aphids, but also caterpillars with mites.

There are many analogues of the above drugs on sale now. You need to carefully read the labels and instructions to choose the most suitable one in each case.

Folk remedies

• soap solution;
• bleach (bleach);
• herbal infusion;
• the right combination of plants.

The most popular folk remedy is soap solution. The second option is an infusion of ash, which has properties similar to soap. Both have an alkaline environment, which pests do not like. Soap and ash are often used together.

Ash and soap

Recipes with soap vary slightly from each other:

• 1 tbsp. l liquid soap pour into 0.7 liters of water. Add there unrefined oil. Pour the resulting composition into a spray bottle, shake until a suspension is obtained and treat cucumbers and tomatoes against black aphids, remembering to periodically shake the bottle vigorously so that the oil is evenly distributed throughout the liquid.
• For a bucket of water, 200 g of 70 percent alkaline. Treat plants 2-3 times every other day.
• Washing powder solution. Since the “power” is different brands powder is very different, required amount detergent will have to be installed experimentally. It is better to start with a one percent solution.

On a note!

Ash and soap complement each other, so most often recipes indicate their combination:

• Sift 300 g of wood ash, add boiling water and cook for 30 minutes. Next, do not evaporate the raw materials for preparing potash, but strain them and pour them into a bucket of water. Add 50 g of laundry soap to the mixture.
• Scald 1.5 cups of wood ash with boiling water and add a bucket of water. Add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of laundry soap. Stir well, strain and spray the plants.

Dry pollination of infected plants with wood ash powder is also used.

Any spraying and pollination should be carried out in dry weather. It is desirable that a good forecast lasts for several days. All folk remedies for black aphids are easily washed off by rain, and to get rid of pests you need the drugs to have time to take effect.

Bleaching powder

Use in an amount of 1-2 tbsp. spoons into a bucket of water and gently wipe the leaves from below.

Chlorine can burn leaves if the solution is too concentrated.

Herbal infusions

The biological spray Py Spray Garden Insect Killer based on chamomile can be purchased today in stores in finished form. Black aphids overwintered in a greenhouse on cucumbers in early spring, when other herbs are still missing, can cause a lot of trouble. Industrial spray has a long shelf life. It can be purchased in advance and used in the spring as needed. You can get rid of aphids using the following improvised means: