Do-it-yourself bathhouse: interior decoration. How to line a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands? Finishing the steam room with linden clapboard

In our time, baths, in addition to wood, are built from different materials– this could be, for example, brick or gas silicate blocks. However, natural wood has been and remains the traditional material for building and finishing baths. Only it, thanks to its natural properties, is capable of creating a favorable microclimate in these specific rooms. Therefore, we can safely say that there is simply no reasonable alternative to this material for cladding bath rooms.

Finishing the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands is a completely doable operation, accessible even to a novice builder, if you know the sequence of work and adhere to technological recommendations. There are, of course, its own characteristics, nuances and subtleties associated both with the specifics of bath rooms, which must be kept in mind when choosing high-quality material and during installation work.

Choosing wooden lining for cladding the inside of a bathhouse

Wood intended for finishing bath rooms must withstand conditions of high humidity and frequent and sudden temperature changes. Therefore, when choosing a material for such purposes, it is necessary to rely on certain criteria, such as the type of wood, the type of board and the type of lining according to the shape of the profile.

For wall cladding, lining made from both coniferous and deciduous wood can be used, and the choice of material largely depends on which specific bath room it will be used in. For example, for a steam sauna or Russian bath, deciduous wood is most often used, since when heated, no resinous secretions appear on it, which can easily get burned.

So, the most popular species for finishing bath rooms are cedar, alder, oak, ash, linden, as well as exotic African abashi wood.

Illustration	Brief description of material properties
	Linden. Experts consider this material to be the most suitable for covering the walls of a steam room, which is why it is most often used for this purpose. Linden has a porous structure, which means it has a low density, so the wood does not overheat at high temperatures in the steam room. Containing medicinal essential oils, when heated, wood releases them into the air, which is good for the prevention of respiratory diseases. Linden wood has virtually no knots and has pleasant soft shades without sharp transitions. When the material is used in conditions of high humidity, this wood does not change color and aroma for a very long time. However, the porosity of linden is not only its advantage, but also its disadvantage, since it absorbs moisture well. Therefore, a room lined with linden clapboard must be equipped with good ventilation and left to ventilate after completing water procedures.
	Aspen It has hard wood, but is easy to work with. Due to the density of the structure, it is resistant to steam penetration, that is, a well-polished surface does not absorb moisture. If the raw materials for the lining were properly prepared, then such a finish will be durable, since it will not be afraid of pests, and under the influence of moisture the wood will become stronger. Aspen has healing properties and good energy, it improves tone, relieves loss of strength and headaches, and also helps improve immunity. In addition, such wood has antiseptic properties, so previously wells were built from aspen logs; the water in them did not become cloudy or bloom, remaining crystal clear for many decades. Many craftsmen choose aspen lining for lining a steam room because of its resistance to high temperatures and moisture.
	Alder It is distinguished by a pleasant golden-orange and sometimes pink color, which seems to radiate warmth. According to its characteristics, this wood is excellent for cladding the surfaces of both dry and wet bath rooms. Alder does not require antiseptic treatment, since its wood contains antibacterial substances. Thanks to this same property, bacteria, mold, and insects do not grow in it. Alder has general strengthening properties and has a beneficial effect on human health. From technical characteristics We can highlight the low thermal conductivity and high water resistance of wood, so it does not deform and practically does not change its geometry at any temperature. Properly harvested alder is not susceptible to rotting, so it, like aspen, was used to construct log houses for wells.
	Cedar- This is probably the ideal wood for cladding bath rooms, but it is rarely chosen for this purpose only for the reason that products made from it have a fairly high price. Cedar has bactericidal properties, that is, it is able to purify indoor air, as well as antiseptic qualities, which makes its service life quite long, even in a steam room. Cedar lining has a reddish-pink tint, which gives the interior a rich, respectable appearance. Cedar has a pleasant aroma and such positive qualities as high strength and moisture resistance.
	Larch It has high hardness and brittleness, so installing lining made from it requires certain skills, since the board can crack. When heated, larch emits a pleasant aroma and, despite the fact that it is a coniferous species, releases a minimal amount of resinous substances and does not overheat. Wood is not afraid of moisture and becomes stronger over time, but without additional processing it quickly loses its natural color. Thanks to its inherent characteristics, larch is suitable not only for cladding walls and ceilings, but also for arranging the floor in a bathhouse. In addition, this material is used not only for internal, but also for outer skin walls
	Hemlock or Hemlock is a Canadian coniferous evergreen tree. Lining made from it is in constant demand, since hemlock wood is resistant to aggressive factors, such as moisture and temperature changes - it does not deform and is not subject to rotting. Thanks to these qualities, this material is widely used even in shipbuilding, as well as for finishing facades and building gazebos. The hemlock structure has moderate hardness and rigidity, therefore it is resistant to mechanical stress. Wood does not overheat, so hemlock lining is well suited for cladding walls in a steam bath. Hemlock is also suitable for this room because its wood contains essential oils used in medicine and the perfume industry, and when heated in a steam room, these substances enter the air, aromatizing and disinfecting it. The texture of the wood has a uniform pattern and color, but its shades can vary from light gray to light brown.
	Abashi is an African oak that can be 40 meters high and up to 3 meters thick. Its wood can be yellow, straw or light cream in color. The advantages of this material for cladding bath rooms include such qualities as low thermal conductivity and density, ease of processing, high strength, not susceptible to deformation processes, absence of knots and other defects, aesthetic and noble appearance. The biggest disadvantage of this finishing material is the very high price and small range of linings on the Russian market.
	Pine- This is the most popular type of wood used for finishing bath rooms due to its maximum availability. This type of lining is very widely used for cladding rooms in bathhouses. However, it should be noted that when heated, pine begins to actively release not only essential healthy oils, but also resinous substances that can cause burns. Therefore, pine lining is recommended for use in a washing room, dressing room or rest room, that is, where the air temperature is relatively moderate. Pine is able to create a healthy microclimate indoors, emitting the aroma of the forest, and also maintain a normal level of humidity. The lining has an aesthetic appearance and a long service life in rooms with normal humidity, which is estimated at up to 50 years. The affordable price and positive characteristics of pine wood make it the most popular compared to other materials in this series. The disadvantages of lining include its relative hygroscopicity and low resistance to temperature changes, which leads to deformation processes in the boards. In addition, fungus in the form of bluish spots may appear in the wood structure. That is why it is not recommended to use pine lining for finishing a steam room.
	Oak has always been famous for its strength and density of wood, characterized by a high content of tannins. Lining from this material will not only create an aesthetic and rich interior in the bathhouse, but will also fill its air with essential substances that suppress pathogenic microflora. Oak wood is resistant to mold and putrefactive processes, has high moisture resistance and is practically inert to very high and low temperatures. Therefore, oak boards are perfect for finishing both a steam room and any other room in a bathhouse. The color palette of this lining is very diverse and depends on many factors, in particular on the location of the tree. The overall color can vary from light milky to dark brown.

Classification of lining

All wooden lining is divided into classes, depending on its quality. There are certain criteria by which they are determined.

• "Prima", "Extra" or "Premium" - this is the highest class of facing material, so it has the best quality from the entire line of similar finishes. Wood selected for the manufacture of “Extra” class lining must be free of knots, black and blue spots and stripes, as well as other defects. The board should be distinguished by a uniform shade and an even textured pattern.
• Class "A" (first grade) – such lining is also considered to be of high quality finishing material. However, minor flaws are allowed on it - these are knots with a frequency of no more than one piece per one and a half linear meters of the board.
• Class "B" (second grade) – this version of the lining is of lower quality, since the boards are allowed to have a resin pocket, no more than 2 cracks, minor mechanical damage, and also the number of knots increases to four per one and a half linear meters.
• Class "C" (third grade) - is the most affordable finishing material of this type, which may have various damages. Such natural lining cannot be used for finishing any bath rooms, since the service life of such boards, in conditions of high humidity and temperature changes, will be very short. In this case, the owners will soon have to dismantle the old cladding, and then purchase high-quality material and refinish it.

Standard lining parameters

You should never neglect the standards prescribed by current GOSTs, which are designed to ensure human safety, as well as the longest possible operation of the material used. The standards are based on a study of the characteristics of wood and on certain calculations of the impact of aggressive external factors on it.

According to established standards, for cladding the walls of bathhouses, the thickness of the lining boards should be from 12 to 25 mm. Using thinner boards of material, given the operating conditions, would be unwise. The main parameters of the lining are set in several regulatory documents, which include:

• GOST 8486–86 “Softwood lumber”.
• GOST 8242–88 “Profile parts made of wood for construction.” This standard establishes the dimensions of the lining, which varies in width from 45 to 120 mm, and in thickness from 13 to 16 mm. Deviation tolerances are also established: for thickness and width no more than 1 mm, and for straightness - deviation no more than 3 mm per 1000 mm of length.
• DIN 68126/86 is a European industrial standard.

These documents do not regulate the length of the board. But in practice, it usually ranges from 2000 to 6000 mm, which is explained by the convenience of packaging, transportation and installation.

Types of lining by profile

There are quite a lot of different lining profiles, but the most used are those presented in the illustration below. It would be more accurate to say that the relief that such boards form when covering a wall is in fashion today.

For example, today it is rare to see facades or walls of rooms decorated with clapboards, shown in the following illustration. But, one way or another, these options were also in fashion (and some will still like them now), and they were milled individually.

It is clear that such profiles are more complex in execution, which also predetermines a high price for such “piece” products. Therefore, today consumers most often choose standards produced on an industrial scale.

According to statistics, the most popular model of facing material for interior work, in particular, for cladding the walls of a bathhouse, there is the so-called “eurolining”. This version of boards differs more from other types of lining high quality, deep connecting grooves, the presence of a special anti-deformation ventilation gap, “solid” dimensions in height and width.

Although covering walls with clapboard is a fairly simple and understandable process, as with the installation of any other material, such work has its own nuances, which are best known in advance.

Prices for lining

• When will the lining for cladding be calculated? internal surfaces baths, it is also necessary to take into account the mandatory supply. The sum of the areas of all surfaces to be finished must be divided by the area of ​​one panel (this parameter is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer). The resulting number of panels must be increased by another 15–20% - this will become a reserve for the inevitable waste when cutting and adjusting the material.
• When covering steam rooms and washing rooms, that is, those where the surfaces will be in direct contact with water, the boards are fixed to the walls vertically or diagonally to prevent moisture from getting into the connecting grooves. In the dressing room or rest room, the lining can be fixed in any orientation, as the owner of this bath prefers.
• The frame of the sheathing for the lining, fixed in the bathhouse premises, must be made of wooden beam. Not suitable for this purpose at all metallic profile or other material.

• The lining is fixed to the sheathing using nails 15÷20 mm long, which must be skillfully driven into the groove of the lock. A simple but careless movement can easily damage the surface of the board or the integrity of the locking joint. Another fastening option involves the use of clamps, which are placed on the lower flange of the connecting groove of the board, and through it a nail or self-tapping screw is driven (screwed) into the frame guide.

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Treatment of lining with protective agents

No matter how resistant wood is to moisture, it is still recommended to protect it from aggressive environmental influences. Today there is a lot for this various means, which will create a protective coating and will not negatively affect the health of people taking water and steam procedures. Here it is immediately necessary to clarify that for this purpose you will need to purchase specially designed solutions designed for operation under certain conditions.

In the steam room, you cannot use any materials of your choice to treat surfaces. Many of the protective coatings clog the pores of the wood, preventing it from “breathing”, and are also unable to withstand the influence of high temperatures and moisture. In addition, when heated, some compounds can release toxic fumes and unpleasant odors, which can be hazardous to human health.

Specialized specialists will not only prevent damage to wood by putrefactive processes and the appearance harmful insects, but will also facilitate sanitary and hygienic operations for mandatory regular cleaning of premises. In addition, protective agents will help preserve the original color and quality of the wood.

Previously, natural wax, hemp or linseed oil were used to process lining boards. Today, experts consider special materials made by Finnish and Russian manufacturers to be the most effective.

Prices for acrylic-based varnish

acrylic lacquer

• For example, foreign and Russian companies They offer acrylic-based varnish to protect wood used in steam rooms. This solution creates on the surface protective film, which repels water falling on it, can withstand temperatures of 100÷120 degrees, and also perfectly resists the appearance of mold and mildew. This composition is applied at a positive temperature, not lower than five degrees, on well-polished lining, free of dust and dirt.

When carrying out work, the wood must be dry, and the acrylic composition is applied to it in two layers. If a colored varnish is chosen, then 20% of water from the total volume of the solution is usually added to it. Clear varnish, as a rule, is not diluted.

• Domestic manufacturers produce compositions in the form of colorless varnish on water based and wax. This composition creates a water-repellent film, extending service life. bath lining. The components of such a protective agent also include antiseptic substances that resist mold and mildew. The solutions are an environmentally friendly material that does not emit toxic fumes at elevated temperatures. Experts recommend treating the wooden walls of the rest room and dressing room with matte or semi-matte water-based varnish.

• The craftsmen also did not refuse to protect the sauna lining with linseed or other vegetable oil, since it saturates the wood structure well, creating a water-repellent layer. This type of treatment is especially suitable for wood species with high porosity. Before applying the oil, the lining is cleaned of dust, then the composition is heated to 50÷60 degrees. From 4 to 6 layers are applied to the surface of the wood, and when each layer dries, the wood is cleaned sandpaper. Linseed oil can be used in its pure form or tar or wax is added to it, which increases the effectiveness of the coating and prolongs the original condition of the product. It is recommended to carry out such impregnation of wood, taking into account operating conditions in an aggressive environment, once every 3–4 years.

Insulation for baths under lining

As a rule, internal ones in order to preserve the heat obtained when heating the bathhouse. However, not all insulating materials are suitable for bathhouses and saunas, since they are not suitable for use in a fairly aggressive humid environment.

So, before purchasing insulation, you need to clarify what thermal insulation materials can be used for. When choosing insulation, you should pay attention to the following criteria that it must meet:

• Ecological cleanliness, that is, the absence of toxic substances in the insulation composition.
• Heat resistance, ensuring fire safety of the room.
• Low hygroscopicity, that is, the material should not absorb moisture.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• Resistance of the material structure to elevated temperatures operation.

The table below shows several insulation materials that are well suited for thermal insulation of bathhouse walls:

Illustration	Characteristic features of insulation
	Mineral wool - this insulation can be called traditional for installation in the insulating “pie” of bathhouse walls. However, it must be recalled that in the production of this material phenol-formaldehyde resins are used, which are the binder for cotton wool fibers. Resins, when indoor temperatures rise, can begin to release toxic substances that can cause irreparable harm to health. Therefore, instead of improving health, a bath can bring a decrease in immunity, as well as a general weakening of the body. Manufacturer's certificates must indicate that the presence of these substances does not exceed sanitary standards given in GOST standards. Do not purchase goods from unknown brands - no one knows how each person’s body will react to this. The choice must be made in favor basalt insulation leading companies, and the recommendations for use should stipulate the possibility of using the material specifically for bath conditions. Such mineral wool insulation is inherently hydrophobic, and some products are produced with a foil reflective layer already applied. A striking example of a special basalt-based insulation is “ROCKWOOL Sauna Butts”, shown in the illustration.
	The very concept of “glass wool” does not fit well with the conditions of the bathhouse. However, this is not at all true if we're talking about about high-quality insulation “URSA PUREONE”. There have been no environmental complaints regarding this thermal insulation yet. The material belongs to a new generation of products, and chemically neutral acrylic is used as a binder for fibers, which does not enter into chemical reactions with any other substances, and therefore does not emit substances harmful to humans even in the most unfavorable operating conditions. To confirm this fact, we can cite the EUCEB certificate, which indicates the absolute environmental friendliness of the insulation. This material has a Eurofins class M1, confirmed by the EcoStandard group.
	Foil polyurethane foam is modern material, which is used for insulation of any buildings, as it has excellent operational and thermal characteristics. "SPU Sauna-Satu" – thermal insulation material Finnish manufacturer, which is excellent for insulating walls built of wood, brick, silicate or concrete blocks, as well as other materials. Polyurethane foam panels have a double-sided foil coating and have numerous positive qualities. These include environmental safety, absolute absence of hygroscopicity (that is, the material does not absorb moisture at all), low thermal conductivity, almost half that of mineral wool. In addition, the material does not require vapor barrier, as it has outer covering from aluminum foil. This completely eliminates the possibility of mold or other microflora appearing on its surface. Due to the small thickness of the insulation, it is easy to attach on top wooden sheathing for installation of lining. The rigidity and light weight of the mats make it possible to stick them on a wall built of any material, without the use of lathing. If necessary, the foil on one side of the mat can be removed and the ceramic tiles can be glued directly onto the polyurethane foam. Thanks to the ease of installation of “SPU Sauna-Satu”, insulation of the bathhouse can be carried out extremely quickly.
	Peat blocks are an environmentally friendly material made from crushed sawdust, small shavings, straw and other natural components, which are mixed into a homogeneous composition with crushed and moistened peat. From the resulting mass, insulating blocks are formed and pressed, which have low thermal conductivity and a high degree of noise absorption. The advantage of this insulation is its ability to “breathe”. Peat blocks absorb moisture well and also release it well without any damage to themselves, that is, they maintain an optimal balance of air humidity in the room. Material refers to middle group flammability (G2), has bacteriostatic qualities (do not allow any microorganisms to develop).
	Foam glass is a modern, durable and environmentally friendly material that does not lose its properties throughout the entire period of operation. The blocks have a stable shape and are absolutely non-flammable; they are distinguished by their lightness, chemical inertness, water and heat resistance, high strength, as well as excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. This heat insulator has few disadvantages, but they can be significant, since they include high price and low impact strength, that is, fragility, so the slabs must be handled carefully. Due to the last “minus” of the material, some manufacturers cover the slabs on both sides with a special reinforcing layer.

So, the conclusion is the following - the insulation should make the bathhouse premises comfortable for taking water procedures, but if chosen incorrectly, it can not only damage the walls of the building, but also cause significant harm to people’s health. Therefore, it is very important to purchase not only high-quality lining for finishing the bath, but also insulation material suitable for these specific conditions.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Insulation and clapboard finishing of the internal walls of the bathhouse

Next, as an example, we will present the insulation of bathhouse walls, which are then sheathed with natural clapboard. To be able to choose the appropriate option, it is worth considering the two most optimal of them, available for independent implementation.

Finishing a bathhouse with preliminary insulation with polyurethane foam thermal insulation “SPU Sauna-Satu”

Illustration
	In the first case, insulation is carried out with Finnish insulation “SPU Sauna-Satu”. It is installed on a wall treated with an antiseptic compound and dried, after carrying out ventilation ducts.
	The slabs are installed in rows from floor to ceiling according to the principle brickwork, that is, the vertical seams between the slabs of each row should not coincide with each other, they should not run apart. Before installing the first row on the floor, polyurethane foam, which has a slight volumetric expansion, is applied along the wall, as well as vertically in the corner of the room, using a construction gun. In addition, the foam is applied to the vertical joints of the slabs, and will serve as both an adhesive and a seam sealant for insulation.
	Further, on each installed row, before laying the next one, polyurethane foam is also applied, that is, the rows must be glued together with a polyurethane foam compound.
	Additionally, the slabs are secured to the wall using dowels or self-tapping screws. The head of the fasteners must be recessed into the insulation.
	Windows are cut out for ventilation pipes. After installing the insulation to the wall, the gap between it and the ventilation duct is filled with foam.
	Along ventilation pipes Insulation is also installed, and the resulting gaps between them are again filled with polyurethane foam.
	The insulation installed on the wall must form an almost solid, monolithic coating, since all the interfaces between the plates will be made using polyurethane foam.
	The next step is to attach the insulation to the ceiling, on which a lathing made of timber with a cross-section of 50×50 or 70×70 mm has been pre-installed. The beam must be positioned so that the joint of the two slabs being connected rests on it. It is also necessary to take into account the location of ventilation ducts if they are located on the ceiling. Before installing each insulating block, mounting foam is applied to it, with which it adheres to the sheathing beam. We must not forget that the slabs are also “set” on foam between themselves.
	Then, the edges of the insulation board are additionally fixed to the beam with two self-tapping screws.
	Having secured one row of foil insulation, apply it again along its end side. polyurethane foam, and then install and secure the second row of material.
	After installing each of the slabs, it is additionally fixed to the sheathing guides with self-tapping screws.
	In the event that a chimney pipe from the stove will pass through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a thermally insulated penetration around it - usually this metal box, which is filled with heat-resistant material. Expanded clay can be used as such an insulator. It is poured into a box mounted in the ceiling. The gaps inside this penetration, that is, between the pipe and the circumference of the opening through which it passes, can be sealed with heat-resistant sealant.
	When the room is completely covered with thermal insulation material, all unsealed joints of the slabs (usually they remain along the line of intersection of the walls and the ceiling) are foamed.
	In addition, the gaps around all elements passed through the insulation are filled with foam, since the coating must become absolutely airtight.
	When the foam expands and hardens completely, its protruding excess must be cut off. This process must be carried out without fail, even in those places where the foam appears, seemingly insignificantly, otherwise these remaining sagging may disrupt the overall waterproofing.
	The next step, without exception, is to seal all the joints between the slabs, the foamed gaps around the pipes, as well as the heads of the screws on the walls and ceiling with foil-coated moisture-resistant tape. It should fit snugly against the aluminum surface of the insulation.
	If you plan to cover the lower part of the wall with ceramic tiles, then it is necessary to remove the aluminum coating from the insulation. To do this, a line is marked along the level at the level of the upper edge of the planned tile “belt”, then, without much pressure, a sharp knife is drawn along it.
	Then, the cut metal film is carefully picked up with the tip of a knife and, slowly, peeled off and separated from the insulation board.
	Next, the insulating material, the floor and especially the joint between them are covered waterproofing composition, for example, liquid rubber. While the waterproofing has not yet hardened, a strip of reinforcing material is glued onto it, the width of which should be such that it covers the lower part of the wall and the floor by 150–170 mm and is well pressed to the joint between them. If necessary, that is, if the reinforcing mesh is not immediately recessed into the waterproofing, another layer is applied on top of it.
	After the waterproofing material has dried, ceramic tiles are mounted on top of it using waterproof glue.
	Marking the insulated surface is done using a building level with a ruler and a black marker, since it will not damage the aluminum coating, and its mark will be clearly visible on the surface. The guide battens for the lining are installed at a distance of 500÷600 mm from each other.
	Then, along the marked lines, using self-tapping screws or dowels, which are screwed in in increments of 200÷300 mm, sheathing slats with a cross-section of 15×50 or 20×50 mm are fixed. In this case, it is planned to install the lining horizontally, so the sheathing elements are fixed vertically to the wall. The slats are fixed to the ceiling perpendicular to the frame beam on which the insulation is fixed.
	The next step is to cover the ceiling with clapboard. The boards are assembled using tongue-and-groove joints. If necessary, since the tenon may enter the groove with resistance, the lining can be slightly knocked down with a hammer by placing an auxiliary rail against it.
	In this example, an electric nail gun is used to fix the paneling. It is very convenient for them to work, and the process of securing the lining boards is completed quite quickly.
	After the ceiling cladding is completed, they move on to cladding the walls. In this case, the horizontal arrangement of the lining boards was chosen, which is typical for Finnish saunas. However, as mentioned above, the best option, especially for Russian baths, is the vertical orientation of the boards, in order to avoid moisture penetration under the cladding.

The second cladding option is using fiberglass insulation of the “URSA PUREONE” type.

To insulate the walls of the bathhouse, thermal insulating environmentally friendly material based on fiberglass - “URSA PUREONE” can be used. However, in this case it will be necessary to cover the insulation layer with a vapor-proof material. For these purposes, foamed foil polyethylene is usually used, which covers the entire insulated surface.

How this finishing is carried out is step by step in the table below:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	This option of insulation and cladding of the bath room takes place in a different order from the first considered cladding method, since other materials are used for it. The first stage of work consists of fixing the frame to the wall, which has been previously cleaned, treated with a primer, well dried and marked for timber. The guides are installed in increments of 600 mm, so that the “clear” distance, taking into account the width of the beam, is approximately 560-580 mm. The timber is secured with dowels, and the caps of these elements must be recessed flush with the wood. Then, insulation is laid between the vertically installed guides. Here it is necessary to clarify that the cross-section of the timber must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The selected step for installing the guides allows you to tightly, without gaps, and, due to elasticity, securely install insulating mats with a width of 600 mm.
	Then, the laid insulation over its entire area is covered with a vapor barrier material, which is often used as foil-foil polyethylene with a thickness of 1.5–2 mm. The sheets of this material are nailed to wooden blocks with staples, and then all their joints are sealed with foil-coated waterproof tape.
	On top of the foil insulation, slats with a cross section of 20×40 mm and in increments of 400÷500 mm are fixed horizontally. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws to vertically installed sheathing bars.
	When installing slats, their evenness is controlled using a building level, both horizontally and relative to the wall. Therefore, if necessary, in certain places, fragments of plywood or thinner slats are placed under the slats in order to achieve flat plane walls.
	When using wooden pads, the slats are secured through them to the frame beam with longer self-tapping screws - 50÷60 mm.
	The bottom slats should be fixed at a height of 30÷50 mm from the floor, so that it is convenient to then fix the lining to them.
	Additional slats are fixed around window and doorways, as well as in corners, and they can be mounted vertically and horizontally, depending on the installation location.
	Next, the lining is installed. The cladding starts from the corner. The first board must be verified according to the building level, and its correct position can be marked on horizontal slats using a simple pencil.
	This board is screwed to each of the sheathing slats with self-tapping screws in the corner area. To prevent the lining from cracking, it is recommended to pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw with a thinner drill bit.
	On the other hand, the board is secured to each slats through a clamp. It is pushed into the groove of the lining until it stops, and through the hole it is nailed to the rail with a small nail or staples driven in with a stapler. When hammering a nail into the hole of the clamper, so as not to damage the edge of the board, use pliers to grab the nail by the head and only then hit it with a hammer.
	In this photo, the clamp and the nail being driven are shown in a different projection so that you can clearly see how the fixation process is carried out.
	The next lining is inserted with a groove into the tenon of the previous, already fixed board on top of the clamps. Then, it is also secured to the slats through clamps installed in its groove.
	If the tongue of the lining has difficulty entering the groove, then carefully tap the board with a hammer, attaching an additional piece of lath so as not to damage the locking part.
	The result should be a smooth (or with vertical “grooves”, depending on the type of lining chosen) wooden wall.
	The next step is to close all the small slot-like gaps formed at the joints of the planes with fittings - these can be wooden corners or plinths. The fittings are secured over the lining with small nails or those from which the heads have been removed.
	If, after installing the cladding on the wall, it is decided to additionally tint it, then it is recommended for this purpose to use a combined tinting protective composition, which includes antiseptic components and a fire retardant.
	Such a composition will not only give the intended color and aesthetics to the installed sheathing, but will also provide good protection against external influences and rapid fire. The issues of final decoration of the lining in the bathhouse with appropriate impregnations or varnishes were discussed in detail above in the article.

Of course, in addition to these two demonstrated methods of thermal insulation of walls in a bathhouse with subsequent cladding, there are others - it all depends on the specifics of the building and the insulation materials used. The main thing is that the optimal scheme of the insulation and finishing “pie” is observed and that quality materials taking into account their operational characteristics.

At the end of the publication, there is a training video from the TechnoNIKOL company on insulating the walls of a bathhouse and then covering them with natural clapboard.

Video: proper insulation of bathhouse walls under lining - materials from the TechnoNIKOL company

It is difficult to imagine a complete holiday in your own country house without visiting the bathhouse. Therefore, every owner of such a house tries to build it on his site. But in order for your stay in the bathhouse to bring as much joy and benefit as possible, it is necessary to competently carry out its interior decoration. The most suitable material for these purposes is lining made from various types of wood. The interior decoration of the bathhouse with clapboard allows you to create a favorable atmosphere of comfort and natural warmth for complete healthy relaxation of body and spirit. You can do the finishing work yourself, there is nothing complicated about it, the main thing is to know what and how to do, and also to understand a little about the properties of wood.

What kind of clapboard to cover a bathhouse

Decorating a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands begins with choosing wood. And before you cover the walls and ceiling in the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to decide on its type. After all, not only the appearance of the walls, but also the health-improving effects when visiting the bathhouse depend on what kind of wood the lining is made of. In addition, the class of the lining and its profile are important.

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard: video

Today, deciduous and coniferous wood is used to produce lining. Depending on the room, the interior of the bathhouse is decorated with clapboards using different types of wood. For rooms with high temperatures, such as a steam room, hardwood will be most suitable. At the same time, recreation areas can be decorated with softwood paneling.

From hardwood use:

Oak. This type of wood is famous for its strength and flexibility. In addition, due to the presence of specific substances in the structure of wood, a bathhouse lined with oak clapboard will be protected from mold and rot. As a result, the air in the bathhouse will always be clean and fresh. At high temperatures, phytoncides are released from oak lining in large quantities, eliminating various pathogenic bacteria and unpleasant odors. The color of oak lining ranges from matte light to dark brown, and the surface itself is slightly rough to the touch and cannot be sanded to a perfectly smooth state. When processing oak, you must use a hard and sharp tool, otherwise you can damage the board.

Linden is one of the most suitable wood species for interior decoration of a bathhouse. It has a pleasant smell, healing properties, low wood density and a uniform structure. In a bathhouse decorated with linden clapboard, you can safely touch the walls even at very high temperatures without the risk of getting burned. Linden lining, even under conditions of extreme temperature operation and high humidity, retains its natural color. Processing linden lining is not particularly difficult, since the wood is soft and pliable.

Aspen. Thanks to your operational characteristics and natural qualities, aspen is an excellent choice as a lining for a bathhouse. It has a pleasant color and is easy and simple to process. It has low thermal conductivity, which at high temperatures will protect you from burns when touching the surface. Aspen has excellent resistance to moisture, practically does not dry out or crack. Perhaps the only significant drawback is that the wood darkens very quickly, losing its natural color.

Alder. Like oak, this wood is saturated with tannins, which provides clean air in the bathhouse and protection from fungi and mold. When heated, alder releases substances that have a hemostatic and anti-inflammatory effect. Unlike oak, alder wood is easy to process.

Ash. This wood is somewhat inferior in density and strength to oak, but surpasses it in healing properties and cut beauty. The color of ash lining is lighter and softer than that of oak. Ash is easy to process, has excellent flexibility, and does not crack.

From coniferous species use:

Cedar- one of the most valuable and beautiful wood species. As a lining for a bathhouse, cedar, like almost all coniferous woods, is best used for rooms such as a rest room or washing room. Cedar itself has a pleasant smell, antiseptic qualities, beautiful color, and is easy and simple to process. The essential oils and resins released by cedar wood promote relaxation and rest.

Larch. This coniferous wood is famous for its strength, which is comparable to the strength of oak. Larch lining has low thermal conductivity, has a beautiful and pleasant shade, is resistant to high humidity conditions, and even at low temperatures emits a pleasant, unobtrusive and soothing aroma. Unfortunately, like oak, larch is quite difficult to process and requires certain skills in this matter.

Pine- the most common type of wood for lining. It is beautiful and easy to process, has a pleasant smell, but, unfortunately, pine can only be used in a bathhouse in rooms with a temperature no higher than room temperature. The reason for this is the resin secreted by pine, which is very sticky and can cause burns at very high temperatures. But in the washing room and rest room, pine will come in handy.

Spruce. Like pine, spruce has a beautiful color and a pleasant smell. Due to the presence of a large amount of resins, it is best to use spruce lining in rooms where the temperature is not very high. The wood is soft and easy to work with.

It should be noted that when finishing a bathhouse with clapboards, you can combine different types of wood. This way you can get a unique healing effect and create a unique interior. When finishing a bathhouse with clapboard, the price depends on the price of a particular type of wood. Thus, the most expensive variety is cedar, and the cheapest is pine.

Classification of lining

Having decided on the type of wood for finishing the bath, you can start purchasing it. And here you need to be especially careful. Firstly, because if you take the cheapest lining you can ruin the entire interior. Secondly, during its installation difficulties may arise due to the presence of knots and chips. To avoid such troubles, it is important to know the classification of lining and the types of its profile.

By class, the lining is divided into “Premium” (“Extra” or “0”), “A”, “B” and “C”.

Class lining "Premium" the most expensive. It does not contain a core, there are no knots or other wood defects. The color and texture are uniform.

Class lining "A" has no core, but may have 1 knot for every 1.5 m, as well as a couple of cracks and resin pockets. The color and texture are uniform.

Class lining "IN" may contain up to 4 knots for every 1.5 m, a couple of through slots and resin pockets. Such lining will most likely have one or more spots of contrasting color, as well as various mechanical damage.

Class lining "WITH" the lowest quality. Contains many knots, chips, cracks and stains. This type of lining is the cheapest, and its use for lining a bathhouse will be inappropriate.

The lining is also divided into several types of profiles: "Euro", "Soft-line", "Calm", "Tongue and groove and chamfer along the length", "Tongue and groove along the length". In fact, lining marked “euro” differs from the usual one only in size and workmanship, and this directly affects its price. An important difference is the ergonomics of the eurolining. Its length, width and processing are specially selected in such a way as to reduce material consumption to a minimum. There are two more differences: the presence of a special groove for water drainage and an increased depth of the tongue-and-groove connection.

Installation options for lining

For finishing a bathhouse with clapboard, the instructions are basically the same for all its types, since the fastening of the planks occurs on wooden frame. As for the fastening methods and placement options for the planks themselves, there are several of them.

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard: photo

There are three main options for placing planks: horizontal, vertical, diagonal and combined. At horizontal In the option of placing the planks, the frame bars are attached to the wall in vertical rows and, as a result, will be perpendicular to the lining strips. At vertical When placing the lining, the frame bars are attached horizontally. For diagonal The layout of the frame also needs to be done diagonally, but so that the bars are perpendicular to the lining strips. The main three options for lining layout can be combined with each other, thereby making the interior more intricate and beautiful.

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard is done correctly only when it is placed vertically and diagonally. This is due to increased level humidity. With this layout option, water will not get caught between the slats, but will drain. Of course, for rooms where the humidity level is low, this condition is not so important. Therefore, they can be finished using any of the above methods.

Having decided how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard, you need to choose the most convenient method of attaching the planks to the frame. There are only four of them: using a clamp, oblique nailing, direct nailing and through fastening with a plug.

Or clips are the simplest and most convenient, especially if paneling is being done for the first time. This method of fastening allows for quick and high-quality installation. Another undeniable advantage is the ability to dismantle the lining plank carefully and without damaging it. The clamps themselves are attached to the sheathing bars using nails or self-tapping screws.

Applying oblique driving of nails into the countersunk, namely, driving a nail into the groove of the plank and recessing it with a hammer, there is a risk of increasing the number of defective lining strips. This fastening method is quite complex and requires certain skills and experience. In addition, to fasten the lining in this way, you will need at least 6 nails per strip. And with large volumes of work, the risk of rejection only increases.

For driving a nail directly into a tenon strips must be purchased accordingly wood profile. Unfortunately, not any type of lining is suitable for this method. But if you managed to acquire Soft-line lining or regular Euro lining, then fastening is done as follows. A nail is driven into the tenon, which fits tightly to the sheathing, at a right angle and then recessed with a hammer. There is a risk of defects, but it is small compared to corner fastening.

Mainly used for seats and shelves. It is good because the self-tapping screw is directly screwed into the block. This leads to the appearance of holes on the surface of the lining, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. For this reason, this method is not recommended for covering walls and ceilings with clapboard.

Covering the baths with clapboard

Carrying out work on finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is not particularly difficult. The whole process is divided into several stages and takes very little time. At the first stage, preparatory work is carried out. On the second, a wooden frame is installed. At the third stage, insulating materials are laid and lining strips are installed. The fourth stage is the final one, in which the surface of the lining is covered with a protective layer.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparation works. First of all, this concerns the surface of the walls and ceiling. If there are too large differences in them, more than 2 mm per 1 m, then they will have to be leveled with plaster or putty. To protect the bathhouse premises from the appearance of fungi and mold, the surface of the walls and ceiling is treated with special means. In the second place, all communications, electrical, water supply, everything that can and should be hidden behind the lining panels are laid. After which materials are purchased, namely lining, fasteners for it, wooden blocks, metal hangers, heat and vapor barrier materials. The lining itself is brought inside the bathhouse for two days and rests there, getting used to the microclimate of the room.

Installation of sheathing

For the sheathing we use a wooden block. Its cross-section is selected individually, based on the thickness of the insulation. In our case, this is a wooden block 20x50 mm. We cut bars into lengths of 1000 mm and 500 mm; if necessary, you can choose a different size ratio. This is done in order to secure the bars on the wall staggered, thereby making the entire structure more reliable. Now we mark places on the walls for installing metal hangers. The hangers will be arranged in rows, the step between the hangers will be 30 - 40 cm. The distance between each row will be 40 - 50 cm.

Important! All metal parts- hangers, screws, nails, etc., it is better to take them from galvanized iron. If you use regular ones, streaks of rust will appear on the wood over time. Frame bars, like some types of wood for lining, must be treated with a mold and mildew repellent.

Covering bathhouses with clapboard: photo instructions

Next, we drill holes, drive in dowels and attach the hangers. We attach the bars for the sheathing to the hangers. The lathing option depends on how the lining will be secured; the bars of one row themselves are attached at a short distance from each other. This is necessary to allow air to circulate between the rows. Around windows and doorways, frame bars are attached vertically along the perimeter of the slopes at a distance of 30 mm from the edge.

Important! We start the first row of the sheathing with a long bar, the second - with a short one. The entire frame must be in the same plane, so each installed row is checked with a vertical level. For very large differences, a spacer can be placed under the bars.

Laying insulation

Before clapboarding the bathhouse completely, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation and vapor barrier. To do this, we lay between the rows of the frame thermal insulation material. Many people use mineral wool for these purposes, but this material does not tolerate high humidity conditions. You can find others on the market, for example, foam glass. This thermal insulation material is not afraid of moisture and has excellent insulation and sound insulation properties, and, most importantly, absolutely does not emit harmful substances when heated. There is no need to lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the foam glass. But if you want to play it safe, you can. We overlap the vapor barrier sheets and glue them together with tape.

Installation of lining

Now you can start covering the walls and ceiling with clapboard. First of all, cut the strips to the required length. Then we carefully cut off the tenon from the plank that is installed first, and then install it in place. We start finishing from the corner. The first plank is installed with a cut into the corner and secured. For ease of installation we use clamps. The clamp itself is driven into the groove of the plank with a little effort and then fixed to the sheathing. We install clamps on each lathing strip. The next plank of the lining is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previous one and lightly hammered through a wooden block so that it fits tightly into place, after which it is fixed with clamps. Further plating follows a similar algorithm.

The final stage of finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is applying a protective layer to the clapboard strips. These can be various oil compositions and waxes. You need to take care of the lining very carefully. Do not use abrasives or solvents. And if the board is severely damaged, it is better to replace it. Also, over time, the lining must be updated with a protective coating.

How to cover a bathhouse with clapboard: video instructions

Modern builders build baths from a variety of materials: bricks, blocks, panels, timber. Traditional natural materials are usually used for interior decoration. The atmosphere in bath rooms turns out to be favorable due to their natural qualities.

Kinds

Before the beginning finishing works It is important to decide what types of products to cover certain rooms of the bathhouse. The generalized characteristics of all types of lining are as follows:

• Breathable structure. Thanks to this property, fungus and mold rarely form on the lining, and proper ventilation is ensured.
• Ecological cleanliness. This material is completely safe for humans.
• Tongue-and-groove fastenings. At the dawn of the development of lining production, the fastenings were “tongue and groove”. Today, these options are not used, as they quickly fail.

To cover the inside of the bathhouse, you can use lining made from various types of wood. Uniform conditions for the material - it must be resistant to humidity, frequent and sudden temperature changes. When choosing a material, you must rely on the basic criteria of the wood species.

Wood species for lining can be as follows:

• conifers;
• deciduous.

When choosing a material, you need to understand for which bathhouse rooms it can be used. The most popular types of bath lining are made from:

• cedar;
• alders;
• oak;
• ash;
• linden;
• pine trees

Linden lining is considered the most suitable for cladding the walls of a steam room. The structure of the material is porous, low density, wood does not heat up from high temperatures. Linden has medicinal properties, releasing ether particles when heated. They are useful for the prevention of many diseases.

Linden wood is characterized by soft shades that do not change color throughout its entire service life. The only drawback of linden is its porosity - the material absorbs moisture. The room must be well ventilated.

Aspen lining has a more dense structure compared to linden. Despite its hardness, the material is easy to process. The surface of the material does not allow steam to penetrate and does not absorb moisture. Under the influence of temperature differences, it only becomes stronger.

Wells were previously built from aspen. The water in them remained clean for many years. Many craftsmen advise choosing aspen lining for a bathhouse.

It is believed that aspen wood can relieve headaches, it also improves immunity, and also has antiseptic qualities.

Alder lining has good thermal conductivity and excellent water resistance. The material is not subject to deformation at almost any temperature. The color of the alder lining is a pleasant golden-orange.

The characteristics of the material make it possible to veneer both dry and wet rooms baths No additional processing is required for alder lining. On human body alder acts as a general tonic.

Cedar lining is considered an ideal option for lining a bath space. The products are quite expensive, so they are rarely used for lining baths. Cedar wood is durable and resistant to moisture. Another positive quality- her respectability appearance.

The medicinal qualities of cedar are known for its bactericidal properties, as well as its ability to make the air cleaner. The material does not change its original parameters for a long time. The pleasant aroma of cedar needles remains in the bathhouse rooms.

Another option for the base for lining is larch. Its installation is difficult, since the board is fragile and splits during processing. Larch is resistant to moisture. After some time, the finish acquires the required strength, but still requires additional processing. Otherwise, the material will lose its natural shade.

Larch is a conifer, but it does not emit resin, so it is suitable for finishing steam rooms. It can be used for walls, ceilings, and floors. The material is universal, it can be used both inside and outside the bath. The medicinal qualities of the material are the same as those of other conifers.

Pine lining is often used to decorate the inside of bathhouses. The price of the material is affordable, but it cannot be used in all rooms. For example, in a steam room, resin will be released from it, which will cause burns on the skin if it comes into contact with it.

However, in the bath rooms with normal temperature pine lining will create a special microclimate. In rooms with normal humidity, upholstered with clapboard, the aromas of the forest will be present. The appearance of the material will last a long time. Deformation processes may occur due to some hygroscopicity of the material.

Oak lining is famous for its strength and high density wood Oak is a beautiful and rich material. Oak finishing saturates the premises with essential aromas that suppress pathogenic microorganisms. Oak has high resistance to moisture and temperature changes. Oak is suitable for any bath room. The lining made from it varies greatly in color.

Any type of lining is divided according to class. Varietal qualities are determined by some general criteria, depending on which specialists choose finishing methods.

Finishing methods

Decorating the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands is possible in two main ways:

• vertical;
• horizontally.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at these qualities. For example, the vertical method of installing panels in a steam room has become widespread. The convenience of this method is that it is faster to install the board. The final cost of installation is lower compared to the horizontal arrangement of boards.

When the boards are positioned vertically, the fastenings receive greater security. Condensation will easily drain down. By the way, this same condensate will easily rise up along with the steam. This is good for a steam room, because more quantities heat accumulates in the steam room. When the beam is fastened horizontally, the same free movement is not observed. Vertical cladding is also justified for dry steam baths.

Lining installed vertically shows a lower percentage of drying out and subsequent expansion when wet, which is convenient for washing. In addition, this arrangement will visually increase the area of ​​a small room.

The advantages of installing the lining horizontally are:

• easy replacement of material if necessary;
• horizontally installed boards dry faster, which means they will last longer;
• horizontal installation ensures better internal air circulation;
• in horizontal installed boards rodents are less common;
• It is easier to implement horizontal finishing.

Negative aspects of the horizontal arrangement of the lining:

• Different conditions for the cladding elements, which will affect the overall condition of the appearance. Particularly unfavorable conditions arise for the bottom row adjacent to the floor.
• Labor intensive work, increased material consumption.
• Lathing frame for horizontal installation is mounted on lining bars, which reduce the size of the premises.
• Worsening conditions for natural ventilation premises.

Negative sides vertical version lining locations:

• uneven heating;
• unpredictable deformation;
• the occurrence of decay processes.

Installation work: step-by-step instructions

Before covering the bathhouse, you need to make the frame correctly. It must be treated with special solutions to prevent rotting. The bars can be coated with antiseptic impregnations. You need to nail clapboard boards on top of the frame. You can fasten the lining with nails or clamps. This is a special mount into which screws are screwed. The boards need to be installed at some distance from the walls. The slats need to be nailed tightly to the ceiling.

If you line the inside of a bathhouse, observing simple rules, then you can avoid premature deformation of the boards, as well as their swelling. Walls near the firebox and chimney need to be treated with other materials. This is also important to consider to ensure fire safety. Let's look at the technology for installing lathing, insulation, vapor barrier and ventilation for a bathhouse in more detail.

Lathing

To decorate the bathhouse with clapboard, you will need lathing. The heat must be retained in the bathhouse, so you need to put insulation under the crate. For lathing, you need to use bars of greater thickness than the existing thermal insulation material. The direction of the sheathing must be perpendicular to the installed lining. It is important to maintain a step of 50-60 cm between the bars.

If unevenness occurs during the installation of the sheathing, pads must be placed under the beams. These parts are made from the same wood as the sheathing itself. To fasten the beams to the wall, use screws, plastic dowels or galvanized self-tapping screws.

The choice of fastenings depends on the wall material. For example, screws with plastic dowels are suitable for brick and stone, and galvanized self-tapping screws for wood.

Timber for sheathing requires careful preparation. The boards must be treated with impregnations. Professionals advise initially, even on the diagram, to think about the correct location of the beam. The correctness of vertical or horizontal fastening is checked by level and plumb.

Lining requires high-quality ventilation. Usually there are two holes - one under the ceiling, the other at some distance from the floor. A special mesh is provided for the holes. It is needed so that debris does not get clogged inside - under the lining and sheathing.

Insulation

You can start insulating a sauna or bathhouse immediately after the walls are erected. In most cases, mineral wool is used as insulation. It is presented on the market in a variety of types and modifications. The material must be laid taking into account the absence of gaps between the individual parts of the building. Otherwise, cold bridges will form, and it will not be possible to properly insulate the bathhouse. Mineral wool is an ideal option, as it protects against freezing in winter and protects against overheating in summer. Currently produced:

• glass wool;
• slag;
• stone wool.

These materials differ in density. Stone slabs are characterized by the most attractive properties, but the price of this material is the most significant.

The selected thermal insulation material is laid in the following sequence:

1. First, lay the mats in the gaps created between the sheathing bars. The insulation is located from bottom to top, pressing each top layer to the bottom.
2. The work should be carried out carefully, ensuring the formation of gaps and cracks. If necessary, the mats are trimmed with a knife.
3. Use protective equipment when carrying out work. They should prevent cotton from getting on the body, hands and eyes.

Mineral wool - good insulation, but it absorbs moisture, and there is plenty of it in the bathhouse, so a vapor barrier is needed to protect the insulation.

Vapor barrier

Glassine material is used for vapor barrier. It is sold in strips, which are fastened in a strictly horizontal direction during installation. Work should start from the bottom up. The material is fixed with a construction stapler with an overlap of strips of approximately 10 cm. If the overlap is not provided, moisture will penetrate inside the sheathing, the insulation will deteriorate, and fungus and mold will appear on the walls.

Another option for vapor barrier is special protective foil. This vapor barrier can be glued with self-adhesive aluminum tape. Foil releases about 10 cm in size are made under the roof and on the floor.

Attaching the covering to the walls

Before installation begins, the lining must be left inside the bathhouse for at least a day. It is believed that in this way the material better adapts to the interior atmosphere of the room. Experts advise starting installation from the most inaccessible corner.

Experts advise placing the first board with a tenon to the inner edge of the wall corner. This board will serve as a guide for all subsequent planks. Therefore, it must be installed based on the level’s performance. Secure the aligned strip to the trim strip with screws. The screw heads should become invisible after installing the decorative corner. The clamps must be installed in the protruding edge of the groove. The screws are then nailed to the sheathing slats. Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove until the fixed element stops. The boards are also secured with clamps to the slats.

The last board of the row has to be trimmed, as it is often simply adjusted in width. The trimmed board is attached in the same way as the first one.

All other material prepared for the walls is attached in the same way. At the same time, special finishing nails are installed in the corners, door jambs and windows. The heads of such nails are copper-plated and small, so they are usually unnoticeable and do not spoil the overall appearance.

Headlining

The best material option for the ceiling structure is wood. Wooden ceiling It can be panel, floor, or hemmed. The latter option is most often used, in which the beams are covered with boards from below. A vapor barrier is laid over them, and insulation is laid on top.

The cladding of the bathhouse ceiling begins from the entrance to the room. To fasten the panels, experts recommend using small nails and clamps. The method with clamps is preferable, and this limitation is associated with a fairly serious load on the mass of the material. The last board is fastened with nails without a head, which are driven in with a special tool (a hammer).

The place where the nail without a head will be located is processed with sandpaper. There should be a small gap between the ends of the last panel on the ceiling and the wall of the bathhouse, and the wall covering should be tightly adjacent to the ceiling sheathing. This will ensure natural ventilation.

The choice of facing materials is significant. But if we are talking about such a specific “object” as a bathhouse, then upon closer examination there are not so many options. And this mainly concerns only the types of panels, since both experts and land owners agree that the best solution for finishing is wooden lining. Let's consider all the nuances of finishing the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard.

The concept of do-it-yourself always means a simple tool (household level), accessible technology and inexpensive materials. This is where the author proceeds. Let's start with the preparation stage for finishing the bath.

Type

In terms of ease of installation, it is advisable to focus on Euro class lining. It differs from traditional designs in the groove parameters. What is the advantage of finishing a bathhouse with this board?

• The so-called “comb” is longer, therefore, even with temperature deformation (and it is inevitable, especially in a steam room), there will definitely be no gaps between the panels.
• The presence of special (compensation) channels on the underside of the lining promotes natural ventilation (increases its efficiency) under the finishing, initiates the removal of condensate and prevents cracking of the boards due to some deformation during temperature changes.
• Another advantage noted by users is that Euro lining from a well-known manufacturer is necessarily impregnated at the manufacturing stage. From the author’s point of view, this will have to be done one way or another. But in relation to the Euroboard, you can do everything necessary using a simplified method. This means you can save some money on medications, and you will need much less time for additional processing.

Variety

According to this criterion, excessive savings are not advisable - only “Premium”, “Extra”, “Prima” (highest) or A (first). And that's why. In lower grades, defects such as cracks, knots and a number of others are allowed. The difference is in their parameters and quantity per unit area. But, under conditions that are typical for any bathhouse (changes in humidity and temperature, their high values, especially in a steam room), the same knots can simply fall out over time, and cracks can “spread.” And then you will have to do repairs, which means spending money.

Breed

A bathhouse is several rooms. Coniferous lining is not suitable for a steam room - when the wood is heated, it releases resin. Therefore, only boards from deciduous trees. For other rooms - at the discretion of the owner. Professionals recommend focusing on the following breeds for a steam room:

• Linden. Perhaps the most used lining in baths. Its main advantages are the strength of the material combined with ease of cutting and processing, beautiful structure, noble shade. It is generally accepted that the linden tree gives outward positive energy, so it’s the best choice for a bathhouse.

• aspen. This lining is somewhat “softer”, since the wood is less dense. The advantages of this wood are that it is easy to care for, over time the board gains strength, and the lining made from it looks very attractive. For those who are interested in bioenergy issues, we can add that it literally pulls out all the “negativity” from us.

• alder. The price for such lining is higher than for aspen and linden, but it is worth it. The main advantage is the tannins contained in wood. It is well processed and practically does not conduct heat. For a steam room, the quality of the board is very important.

It makes no sense to consider such species as abashi, ash, oak, hemlock and a number of others - lining made from this wood is quite expensive. But if financial capabilities allow, you should pay attention.

For all other rooms it is better to purchase coniferous lining. In principle, there is no need to process it, since by definition it is protected from rotting by the resin contained in the structure. Is it purely symbolic, for “prevention” (implies de-resining the wood). If you add the pleasant aroma exuded by coniferous wood, a variety of shades, a beautiful structure and ease of cutting, then such lining for all rooms of the bathhouse, with the exception of the steam room, is an excellent choice.

Lining quantity calculator

Drawing up a finishing scheme

This must be done for two reasons:

• The drawn up drawing will help determine the required volume of lumber purchases. The lining is mainly sold in samples 3 m long. Naturally, during the installation process the panels will have to be sawn, adjusted, and somehow combined individual fragments. If you buy wood “by eye,” the costs will be higher and there will be a surplus. A thrifty owner does not act this way.
• It is the diagram that will help you understand how best to arrange the lining in the bathhouse (over the entire area or in a separate room). There are several options, although two are considered the main ones. And on the question of which one is preferable, even experts do not have a consensus. Consequently, you will have to decide on your own, taking into account the dimensions of the room, its configuration and “filling” (furniture, household appliances, and so on).

Vertical fastening of boards

Proponents of this scheme highlight the following advantages:

• Installation finishing board Produced quickly due to the simplicity of the technology.
• Splashes of water and condensation do not flow into the cracks, but move down.
• With this method of installing the lining, the most efficient circulation of air flows is achieved (due to channels on the wrong side), which flow from bottom to top.
• When applied to a steam room, this finishing allows for maximum heat accumulation in the room.

Fastening the boards horizontally

Those who defend this particular method of laying lining use the following arguments:

• The lining is attached upward with a “tenon” (protrusion), therefore, water will not linger between the panels.
• Air circulation will not be reduced, as it is facilitated by the orientation of the slats load-bearing frame(vertical position).
• Practicality. This argument is very impressive if you take into account the specifics of rooms with high humidity. Mostly dampness accumulates at a level close to the floor. This means that the bottom will rot more intensely. In this case, when vertical installation lining will have to change all the boards, and with horizontal - only a couple of lower panels.
• Temperature changes cause the boards to begin to deform. This is especially noticeable when they are installed vertically.

It turns out that in a steam room it is better to place the lining horizontally. But in other rooms, baths are at the personal discretion of the owner, taking into account the peculiarities of their design. This is both “filling” and overall design, and much more - there are no limits to the imagination of the home master.

There is also a diagonal installation of the lining. It looks impressive, nothing more. In practical terms, fastening the boards in this way does not provide any advantages. And this despite the fact that it is quite difficult to install them using this method with your own hands. Even experienced craftsmen spend a lot of time on this. It is associated with the obligatory accuracy of cutting samples and their proper fitting in place.

Interior decoration of a bathhouse with clapboard - work procedure

Doing it yourself also means freedom of choice - tools, techniques, the same scheme, drugs, and so on. It will be much more useful to dwell on the features of the stages of work.

Preparing the base

Much depends on new bathhouse or it was built a long time ago, and the decision to finish it with fittings was made much later. The reader will determine for himself what he needs to do.

• Cleaning up. The task is to identify existing defects during a surface inspection and outline ways to eliminate them, as well as decide what will be needed for this.

• Repairing detected damage. For example, if the bathhouse is a log house, then it is very likely that you will have to deal with removing fungus, bleaching the wood and impregnating it special compounds. In a building made of brick or cellular concrete, cracks may be found that need to be repaired.

• Treatment. Depending on the material of the walls, they must also be coated with an appropriate preparation. Why, if they are not made of wood? You won’t be able to do everything with your own hands, absolutely competently. Practice shows that the formation of condensation on the walls is a common phenomenon during self-finishing. This means that it (and the fungus that accompanies dampness) will gradually move onto the insulation and the lining itself.

Traditionally used impregnations in this case (for wood, concrete) are ineffective for one reason - the short duration of action. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to coat brick and reinforced concrete with PVA putty. It sets firmly, forms an impenetrable layer and lasts for at least 5 years. But for a wooden bathhouse this is not an option, since it will stop “breathing”.

Waterproofing

Even if the walls are treated with putty, this layer should not be neglected. Moreover, P/E film is cheap, and its sheets (with overlap) can be fixed with slats of the supporting frame. The joints are sealed with construction tape. Everything is quite simple and fast.

Installation of supporting frame

• Slats – only wooden; The metal profile is not installed under the lining. The explanation is simple - numerical value the coefficient of expansion of the mating materials should be approximately equal (ideally identical).
• There is no need to skimp on bars - expensive, but straight ones are better. Problems will arise with the “slab”, since it will not be possible to lay wooden lining on an uneven base. The reason is the hardness of the material; dry wood (and other wood is not mounted during finishing), unlike plastic, does not bend.
• How to install the grille depends on the location of the panels. When fastening the lining vertically, the slats are fixed horizontally, and vice versa. It's clear. Another thing is how to choose frame parameters. It all depends on whether a layer of thermal insulation will be installed or not. In the first case, you will have to provide a counter grille, otherwise high-quality air circulation under the finish will not be achieved. In some rooms, insulation may not be needed (warm climate, thick walls, external thermal insulation). Then the thickness of the frame slats can be reduced; leave only a small gap between the lining and the walls.
• Fixation is as rigid as possible. But not nails. This type of fastener easily splits wood, especially dried wood. If you use it, then only special ones, anchor ones, with preliminary drilling of the slats.

At this stage, you should immediately lay (arrange) a number of communications:

• Electrical/wiring. But only in a sleeve, and a metal one (corrugated). The wire (cable) must have moisture-repellent insulation.
• Ventilation ducts. With your own hands, it is easy to install sections of metal pipe or corrugation (section 80 - 100 mm) passing through the walls. At the top - at a level of 15 - 20 cm from the ceiling; below – 20 (±5) from flooring. And preferably closer to the sauna stove. It is also necessary to provide dampers so that it is possible to regulate the intensity of air exchange.

Internal insulation

This process should be approached rationally. If the decision has been made, then how exactly to create the thermal layer? For a steam room, the best option is penofol with a foil coating. It is placed under the sheathing with the metallized side facing the inside of the room (to effectively reflect IR rays).

In other rooms (if insulation is required) you can limit yourself to mineral wool. Considering that this is a bathhouse and the layer is internal, it is advisable to purchase the “eco” modification, as the most “environmentally friendly” material.

The slabs (rolls) are laid in cells between the slats. Since cotton wool is elastic, after straightening it is securely held without additional fixation. But provided that the diagram of the supporting frame is drawn up taking into account the size of the samples!

Vapor barrier layer

Many articles on this topic indicate the same film. There is some inaccuracy here. Films are available in various designs. Conventional (solid) insulation is not suitable for vapor barrier, as it does not allow air to pass through. Therefore, only special modifications (with microscopic holes) or appropriate membranes are a fairly large choice.

After installing this layer, as noted above, counter batten slats (to create a ventilation gap). Fastening the material to wood with staples (using a construction stapler).

Directly finishing the bath

If the lining is from a well-known manufacturer, then instructions are always included with the product. But even in its absence, it’s not difficult to figure out how to join the boards. There are protrusions, grooves - everything is very simple. Where to start the assembly is also unimportant, since thinner vertical slats are installed in the corners. Or corner profiles. The decorative component comes in second place here. The main function of these elements is to prevent water from flowing into the joints of the panels in the corners of the room. The most important thing is how to correctly attach the finishing board.

• Be sure to “recess” the hardware into the wood. Therefore, chamfers are made in the lining. Otherwise, when heated, you can get burned on them. And from an aesthetic point of view, they do not add any attractiveness to wooden trim.
• Any metal rusts in damp conditions. And this “spreads” onto the tree and appears in the form of red stains and spots. Therefore, only galvanized fasteners.
• Another nuance - what to use? Self-tapping screws, screws, that is, anything that grabs tightly, is not suitable for fixing the lining. The reason is the same - temperature expansion. To fasten the finishing board you need to take small nails or special parts - staples, clamps (available for sale).
• Fastener locations must be sealed. The caps are covered with a primer (of a shade corresponding to the wood) or miniature plastic plugs. They can also be purchased at any furniture store and are inexpensive.

When joining the boards, it is necessary to achieve their maximum adjacency, and then move them apart somewhat (by 2 - 3 mm). For what? Thermal expansion is one thing. But we should not forget that the lining will gradually accumulate moisture, which is inevitable even with regular ventilation and drying of the bathhouse. This means that the boards will swell somewhat.

Ceiling cladding is a separate issue. You need to start the interior decoration of the bathhouse with it. What are the nuances?

1. Firstly, brackets for fixing the boards are not suitable here, since under the weight of the lining they will easily come out of the wood. This means only clamps or nails.
2. Secondly, installation is carried out only from the door (in this case, the visual effect matters).
3. Thirdly, the lining is positioned so that there is a gap of at least 4.5 (±0.5) cm between the ends of the boards and the wall. The reason is that all the heat collects under the ceiling, therefore, it is there that the boards undergo maximum expansion.

In conclusion, it should be noted that lumber, regardless of the degree of industrial drying, species and grade, must be processed before being used for its intended purpose. Since we are talking about a bathhouse, the compositions need to be selected wisely, taking into account the structural features. Special attention attention should be paid to the lining for the most “problematic” room - the steam room.

All decorative elements, various slopes, planks, and so on are attached in the same way - with hardware. You cannot plant them on glue. Otherwise, in the process of deformation of the wood, the entire finish will begin to warp.

A wooden steam room is the dream of every homeowner. Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is the simplest and most affordable way arrange a sauna in traditional style, while meeting all the requirements of SNiP.

General information

Saunas made of logs and timber are especially popular due to the properties of wood to retain moisture and steam. Russian steam room is perfect combination prices and quality: wood has always been available material for construction, and its steam emission is much higher than that of stone or brick. If earlier the construction of a traditional bathhouse from start to finish was made of untreated wood, now craftsmen prefer to erect the building itself from brick or foam blocks, covering them from the inside with clapboard or boards.

Photo - log steam room

Advantages use of lining in bath lining:

1. Availability of material. Wood panels are cheap and practical, they come in different sizes, colors and thickness;
2. By the walls covered wood panels, excellent heat transfer performance. The internal lining of the bathhouse must not only resist the constant aggressive effects of moisture and steam, but also retain a certain amount of heat in its pores;
3. High-quality lining prevents the formation of fungus and mold on the walls. The panels are made using a special technology that ensures normal air circulation.

At the same time, a wooden steam room has certain disadvantages. Firstly. It has a high level of fire hazard. Wiring and open sources of fire can cause a building fire. Secondly, the lining has a short service life relative to logs and beams - 50 years. For comparison, steam rooms made of solid logs can last up to a century.

Photo - clapboard bathhouse

Tree species

To line a bathhouse with eurolining or classic panels, you must first select the right material. The durability of the finish and the quality of the steam room itself depend on the choice of lining. Coniferous species (pine, larch) are ideal for the steam room; linden, oak and other leafy trees are ideal for the shower room and dressing room. Let's consider properties of some rocks:

1. Oak. Flexible and durable, it perfectly resists mold and mildew, allows the walls to pass oxygen normally, but at the same time retains steam well;
2. Linden. Known for its healing properties. When warming up, a linden board steam room begins to emit a pleasant aroma, which helps in the treatment of various diseases of the upper respiratory tract. The advantages of the breed also include low density and lightness. In addition, linden does not heat up even at high temperatures, you can touch the walls without fear of getting burned;
3. Siberian and European larch. It has excellent durability, does not deteriorate from exposure to moisture and steam, and acquires a deep dark shade over time. When heated, it aromatizes the room with a smell similar to the aroma of pine;
4. Cedar. It is mainly used for finishing a shower room or dressing room, as it gets very hot and deteriorates from constant exposure to steam. Has cleansing and antiseptic properties;
5. Pine is not used for finishing the steam room, because when heated, resin begins to release from the wood. It is used as cladding for showers and rest rooms. Spruce has similar properties.

In addition to the type of wood, you need to know that there are different types of lining. Manufacturers produce extra class, categories A, B, C. Extra - smooth and even, without any flaws, with good density and thickness. The highest quality, but expensive option. As an alternative - category A. It may have slight roughness on its surface, almost unnoticeable during operation; 1-2 knots are allowed on the surface of the board. B - slightly inferior in quality; such lining may have from 4 to 6 knots, significant roughness and even cracks. C is the lowest category. Such panels may show signs of shrinkage and even rotting; they are not used for interior finishing work.

Photo - steam room lining

Finishing a bathhouse with wooden lining can be done with boards with different profiles: “Euro”, “Soft-line”, “Calm”, “Tongue and groove, chamfer”, “Tongue and groove”. The photo below shows the difference between them. Please note that eurolining differs from regular lining only in thickness, so in most cases, it is not advisable to overpay for it. In addition, prices for these types of boards vary (prices are indicated in USD per linear meter pine clapboards):

Video: how to finish a bathhouse with eurolining

Clapboard finishing

Technology of how to decorate the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard step by step with your own hands:

After completing the work, you can coat the lining with varnish or antiseptic and a few days after it has dried, the room can be used.

If for some reason you cannot carry out the cladding yourself, you can turn to specialists for help. Prices in the cities of the Russian Federation for finishing a bathhouse with clapboard are approximately the same; the cost may depend only on the specific company and the scope of work. For example, in Samara, a square meter of cladding will cost 10–20 dollars, in Moscow a couple of units higher (up to 25).