Bathhouse 5x5 with attic. Projects of bathhouses with an attic. The standard arrangement of rooms is usually like this

The main advantage of bathhouses with an attic is an increase in the total usable area. This is a practical solution for owners of small country plots and those who like to receive guests.

This project is often chosen by those who want to relax outside the city in comfort. On the ground floor there is a complete bath complex, and on the second floor there are living rooms, a billiard room or Gym. After swimming, you can go out onto the spacious balcony.

The price of such projects depends on the configuration and dimensions, as well as the building materials used - rounded logs, timber or foam blocks. The most economical would be a small bathhouse - 5 by 5 meters. It is quite roomy if you arrange all the elements rationally.

Features of a bathhouse with an attic

A bathhouse, the design of which assumes an attic, can accommodate a large number of people only if the room is rationally planned. Can buy finished log house, developed according to standard drawings, or order it according to individual wishes.

When a bathhouse with an attic is the best option:

If the area of the plot does not allow the construction of several buildings at once;
The desire to combine a guest house with a bathhouse;
The desire to organize bath business on its territory, separating it from a residential building;
Projects for 5 by 5 baths with an attic allow you to expand the area of the steam room by several meters by moving some utilities to the attic.

The construction of a bathhouse with an attic is simpler than a two-story one. This is due to a less expensive method, complex floors. It is enough to equip the space already available under the roof, which usually has a gable or broken shape.

With your own hands you can assemble a finished log house, ordered or purchased from an organization engaged in the production of turnkey bathhouses. The design must include windows to save artificial lighting. Waterproofing and ventilation systems, and methods for removing wastewater are also being thought through.

Proper decoration of the attic space will visually increase the area. For example, painting the walls in light colors or covering them with clear wood varnish. Pastel colors of the interior will expand the boundaries of space.

Basic equipment of a bathhouse with an attic

Despite the fact that the standard length of edged and unedged lumber is 6 meters, bathhouses with a wall length of 5 meters are no less popular. They are more compact, but no less spacious.

Standard equipment for a typical project includes:

Construction of a columnar or strip foundation. The material used is solid blocks 400 mm high - installed in two rows. Roofing felt serves as waterproofing.
External walls and internal partitions, which are made of planed profiled or glued timber with a thickness of 140 mm. Best connecting element- wooden dowel.
Rough floor. The project of a 5 by 5 bathhouse with an attic involves the installation of flooring from edged boards. The optimal thickness is 22 mm. For floor joists, timber 150 by 50 mm is used in increments of 600 mm.
The interfloor ceiling is the main point of construction, since the attic will be actively used. Boards up to 150 mm thick are installed, and vapor and waterproofing are also installed. Well suited for these purposes mineral wool.
A roofing complex consisting of a frame and sheathing and roofing material. The inside of the attic is finished according to the owner's wishes.
Windows, entrance and. Window designs can be wooden or plastic.
Complete bath complex: interior decoration of the steam room, washing room and other adjacent premises.

Note!
Bathhouses with an attic 5 by 5 by 5 by 5 are most often supplied without a stove.
Since there are several options to choose from: brick or metal heater, electric oven and other available modifications.

Types of baths with an attic

A bathhouse with an attic can be made of timber or logs, less often frame. There is no fundamental difference, only aesthetic characteristics.

In the case of a log, the log house is cut like a five-walled one.

But there are also small ones distinctive features between them:

A timber bathhouse usually has a gable roof, with a height at the ridge of up to 3.5 meters, and the attic of a timber bathhouse is often broken;
For frame baths, the rafters are made of boards with a thickness of 40 by 100 mm. Mineral wool is suitable - it insulates well; experts advise using Euro slate for roofing.
The design of a 5x5 bathhouse with an attic assembled using frame technology will be an order of magnitude lower than one made from logs or timber.

The bathhouse must be complemented by a staircase between the first floor and the attic. It can be located both outside and inside, which is more acceptable. In winter, you won’t have to go outside after the steam room.

It is better to immediately make the attic habitable, and not turn it over time into an ordinary attic. It makes more sense from a financial point of view.

Conclusion

Despite the apparent complexity of the work, building a bathhouse with an attic will cost less than a one-story structure. It is more functional compared to a regular bathhouse.

Although it will be necessary to design a more powerful foundation, distribute communications and organize heating of the attic for the possibility of winter recreation. The video in this article will tell you more clearly about the designs of bathhouses with a 5 by 5 meter attic.

Despite the fact that beautiful designs for bathhouses with an attic are presented in abundance in the public domain, most homeowners still want to have a unique design for their building. The desired project can be ordered from a specialized company or compiled independently. But for this, many factors must be taken into account, starting from the material from which the structure will be built, and ending with zoning.

Peculiarities

A bathhouse with an attic is a relatively new solution that has only recently gained recognition. Using the attic space opens up many possibilities:

you can equip a rest room;
allocate space for a billiard room;
build a gym;
leave the attic for storing small items: towels, bath brooms and the like.

However, it is best to turn the attic into a room in which you can spend time pleasantly. Organizing the space above the bathhouse has many advantages:

This way you can save space by rationally using all available square meters.
A large bathhouse with such a superstructure, for example, with an area of 8 by 9 m, can be used as a full-fledged guest house, which will solve the problem of accommodating a large number of friends or relatives.
The attic can be converted into a veranda by completely glazing the end walls, or you can supplement it with a terrace if you make an exit to open balcony. Such specific solutions will not leave anyone indifferent.
Baths with attic floors look much more attractive than low one-story buildings. They fit better into any environment.

By using the space under the roof, it becomes possible to save on heating costs. If everything is calculated correctly, the attic floor will be heated by a sauna stove and will always have a comfortable temperature. If the bathhouse is used only in the summer, then you can use the attic in the summer as a living room. Another solution is to equip it with a summer kitchen with a beautiful view of the surrounding nature.

Project

Today, large designs of bathhouses with an attic are in demand:

5x5 m;
5x6 m;
6x4 m;
6x6 m;
6x7 m;
6x8 m;
6x9 m.

It is worth looking at some drawings, to understand exactly how the plan for a bathhouse with an attic is built and what professional architects focus on.

Bathhouse with attic measuring 6 by 4 m has all the necessary compartments on the ground floor. There is a steam room, a washing room, a relaxation room, and even a terrace. A small attic room can be converted into anything, but it is best to make it either an additional bedroom or a billiard room. So after the bath procedures you can have a pleasant time. Please note that this project is not designed for people to live permanently in the attic (even guests), since the layout of this 4x6 m bathhouse does not include a toilet.

Bathhouse with attic measuring 5 by 7 m has a full bathroom. Please note that a building with an attic is still considered to be one-story, and the attic floor on the plan is called an attic, and not a second floor. The second floor has a small area due to the fact that the bathhouse is covered with a gable roof, under which there is almost no space left to build a full-fledged room.

The design of this bathhouse with an area of 6x5 m does not provide a large space for bath procedures. It is most suitable for constructing a residential building. So, the roof here is attic, freeing up maximum space for rooms, so there are two of them under the roof. In addition to this, there is a large room rest area on the ground floor, part of which can be used as a kitchen.

Materials

In general, baths can be built from completely different materials: timber or rounded logs, aerated concrete, brick, SIP panels - in a word, from almost anything. An attic superstructure is a completely different matter. You can’t make it out of anything, and there is a very simple explanation for this: the foundation may not hold up and sag under the weight of the structure.

That is why it is important to initially indicate in the plan the desire to add an attic. This way it will be possible to calculate everything so that the foundation can withstand and not sag, and the walls do not crack.

If you decide to build an attic only after the bathhouse has already been built, it is strongly recommended to take a closer look at lightweight materials: frame panels, gas or foam blocks. They weigh significantly less, and will cope with their duties no worse, especially since the main protective function will still be performed by the roof.

It happens that the owners of a site build a bathhouse with an attic for reasons of economy, but at the same time do not want to give up quality construction. In this case, the first floor itself can be built from high-quality logs, and for the attic floor, a simpler option can be left, for example, a laminated log frame. Since the second floor is not subject to the same colossal loads, you don’t have to worry that such wooden walls will rot or crack.

It is important to pay attention to insulation materials, as well as the caulking of the entire structure, if it is made of a log house.

Tree

The best material For the construction of baths, no matter how many storeys, wood is rightfully considered. Since ancient times, our ancestors have used this particular raw material, since it has many positive features:

It is resistant to temperature changes. Specially selected wood, laid properly, is better than other materials in resisting temperature changes, which are essential in a steam room.
Has a beneficial effect on the human body. Evaporation essential oils made from some types of wood have a calming effect on the psychological background of a person, and also lead to natural cleansing of the respiratory tract.
Wood retains heat well. Wooden buildings will not cool down for a long time, so you can take a steam bath longer. In addition, the heat is moist and comfortable, the heat is not harsh.
Wood is an environmentally friendly material, which a priori speaks in its favor.
As a rule, wooden structures can withstand the weight of superstructures well, especially if they were built from high-quality wood. This means that an attic for a wooden bath can be built a little later than the start of its operation.

The biggest disadvantage wooden baths with an attic is their high cost, however due to the choice alternative material for the attic you can save significant money. Wood is also a fire hazard, so you need to think about possible evacuation from the attic floor.

Brick

Brick, unlike wood, does not burn, but its positive qualities are not limited to this:

Like wooden baths, brick ones last a very long time. Their service life, if the construction is made of high-quality raw materials using all the rules, exceeds 50 years.
Brick is an environmentally friendly material. In its production, only natural substances are used.
Objectively speaking, it is almost impossible to build a bathhouse with a complex, intricate shape from timber. Another thing is brick. When using this material, it is possible to build any intricate structure, while the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls do not suffer, since the joints will still remain completely sealed.

Brick baths They also have a number of shortcomings:

Heating such a bathhouse is much more energy-intensive. Brick heats up much more slowly than wood, but cools down several times faster.
It will be necessary to provide good waterproofing, since brick quickly becomes damp when exposed to moist air.
Brick costs a lot, so you need to prepare decent money for the construction brick building with an attic floor.

Bathhouses with an attic, made entirely of brick, need to be fully planned. Brick is a fairly heavy material, and the base underneath it may simply not support the weight of the structure with the superstructure.

There are a number of materials that can be used to create an attic without greatly increasing the weight of the entire bathhouse building.

Gas and foam blocks

Foam blocks or aerated concrete are a bad solution for building a bathhouse itself. This is due to the fact that under the influence of moisture, materials quickly disintegrate, therefore, such walls will not last long. As for the attic floor, where the air is much drier, the blocks - great idea. Thanks to your positive qualities they are perfect for lining an attic.

Advantages:

Block material is much cheaper than brick or wood. In addition, construction from it is a fairly simple process, so you won’t need a lot of money to pay workers.
Thanks to the lightness of the blocks, construction can generally be done alone. The same lightness plays into the hands in the case of excessive load. Thanks to the block attic floor, this will not occur.

Both aerated concrete and foam blocks are fire resistant. They do not burn, therefore they are fireproof.
Although the blocks cannot be called ecological pure material, it does not adversely affect the atmosphere. Due to their synthetic origin, the blocks are not attacked by rodents or insects, and mold fungi do not grow in them.
The blocks are large. Due to this, all work is carried out in the shortest possible time. They are easy to saw, giving them the required form, which makes the work even easier.
Although the material is “afraid” of temperature changes, it tolerates high temperature conditions well, without cracking or deforming.

Block material has more than enough disadvantages. That is why it is rarely used for the construction of baths. As mentioned above, blocks do not tolerate temperature changes. This material itself easily releases heat, so high-quality thermal insulation will be required, and this greatly increases construction costs. However, in cases where the blocks are used for the attic, these disadvantages are not so important.

Frame

Assembling a frame for subsequent cladding with inexpensive panels is not a new solution. Builders generally speak positively about this method, since the construction process itself is greatly simplified. You don’t have to put in any special effort, as is the case with wood or brick. Frame construction is suitable for both the entire bathhouse and only the attic floor. The material retains heat well: its performance is not inferior to its wooden counterparts. However, there are also some nuances.

By her own frame bath without finishing it does not look particularly attractive, so considerable investments will be required in its decoration both outside and inside. In addition, for winter use you need to be well insulated. frame walls, and this will also cost a pretty penny.

Not every material is suitable here: it is important that it is fire-resistant, otherwise the frame will easily burst into flames at the slightest exposure to an open flame, since the materials for the frame are not fire-resistant.

So, there is not much difference in price when they are building a frame bathhouse or a log bathhouse. But there are strong differences in weight. The frame structure weighs 5-6 times less, therefore, there is almost no load on the foundation. If you build a frame attic floor over an existing bathhouse, this will not harm the foundation. You can also save money on insulation here, since the roof will perform the main heat-insulating function.

SIP panels

The construction of structures from SIP panels began in Canada, and since this country has a climate close to ours, Russian companies The technology was quickly adopted.

You can build a bathhouse with an attic from SIP panels in record time, and they will have a lot of advantages, including:

The low weight of finished buildings allows them to be erected on lightweight foundations, for example, strip foundations, which are the easiest to build.
The panels themselves already have a fairly decent level of thermal insulation due to the components they contain. So, on the attic floor without additional insulation you can get by.

Correct installation guarantees the absence of drafts, dampness and cold in the room due to the complete sealing of all seams.
What is important for baths is the moisture resistance of the material. Some of the SIP panels are moisture-resistant, but not all, so you need to pay attention to the presence of appropriate markings.
This is not to say that the panels are flammable. However, they are made of wood, so the use of basic measures fire safety Necessarily.
SIP panels have good soundproofing qualities, which is important when constructing an attic for a living room, in particular a bedroom. This way, street sounds will not penetrate into the room and you can relax peacefully.

SIP panels have a number of significant disadvantages, which are mainly associated with their installation and financial component. You won't be able to install it properly yourself. You will definitely need assistants, or better yet, a team of professionals. The cost of the material is by no means so low, especially if it is of high quality. Aesthetically, such baths also do not look very attractive, so money will be required to decorate them.

Room zoning

The attic can be adapted to any room, or you can combine several zones here at once. The most popular options include the following:

Restroom. Zoning provides places for passive and active recreation. Here you can organize billiards, placing them next door comfortable sofas or armchairs so you can sit comfortably and just relax.

Veranda + living room. When an attic is turned into a glassed-in veranda, it is always advantageous, especially when the bathhouse is surrounded by picturesque surroundings. In such an atmosphere it will be pleasant to drink tea after the steam room.

Living room + kitchen. If space allows, then you can organize a full-fledged living space here. However, difficulties may arise with communications, in particular gas. Some craftsmen manage to adapt a sauna stove for kitchen needs, but you shouldn’t go to such extremes. It is better to simply organize a dining room in the attic, placing a sofa bed nearby for relaxation.

Gym. If you make good ventilation in the attic and install several exercise equipment, you will be able to create a full-fledged sports room. Since there is a washroom downstairs, cleaning yourself up after sports will not be difficult.

Bathhouse on personal plot- the secret desire of every owner of land and home ownership. The building is of great value. It lies in the health benefits and artistic beauty. In an effort to acquire something exclusive, many are thinking about such an option as a bathhouse with an attic. It has an undeniable majesty and is equipped with numerous design nuances. Let's consider the subtleties of designing such a structure.

Peculiarities

Exceptionality attic baths implies the full implementation of various constructive solutions. Choose a bath house option taking into account its characteristic features. For those who like to design various variations of buildings, a bathhouse with an attic will be an excellent way to implement own ideas. One of the main superstructure structures of the attic is the staircase. Climbing to the attic in the bathhouse will require its presence.

The counterbalancing points should be carefully analyzed, taking into account the arguments for and against. Only after taking into account the main characteristics of a personal bath structure is it possible to consider design issues. Another structural feature of bathhouses with an attic is the roof structure. It is important to take into account the limitations of the attic. To make this floor useful, a broken gable roof structure is often used.

A pitched roof is undesirable; the type of traditional gable roof also cannot be called the most convenient. Hip roofing structures are often used. The geometric parameters are more or less clear. Choose an option for climbing to the attic, taking into account one or another roofing option. For example, the most effective options are considered marching type, but they are difficult to install in small areas. Main devices adapt especially poorly to the design of 4x4 m bathhouses.

Bolster ladders are equipped with the advantages of marching devices. Such systems cannot be used for frame structures, since they require a strong load-bearing support. Steps are attached to the wall. If the bathhouse is made of other materials, the device is quite acceptable for use.

Screw-type devices are not convenient, but they are effective in terms of saving space. Often they become a lifesaver in a 4x4 or 5x5 m attic bathhouse project.

The best version of the project with a veranda, terrace and attic involves placing the rooms in the following order:

first floor;
steam room;
shower or washroom;
vestibule;
small veranda.

The veranda is often used as a dining area, filled with benches, chairs, and tables. This space is usually open, creating an atmosphere of simple natural beauty. However, the veranda is sometimes sacrificed to increase the internal area of the bathhouse. It is allowed to arrange a sleeping place in the attic area, game room(for example, a billiard room), a storage room. If the attic is a storage room, it is more expedient to equip a resting place below. For comfort in the attic, a total room height of 2.5 meters should be provided.

Construction materials

On modern market There are many types of building materials that can be used for any bathhouse. For example, they are built from:

timber;
logs;
foam blocks;
wood and wooden blocks;
aerated concrete;

rounded logs;
frame blocks;
glued timber;
finished log house;
bricks

If the project contains brick, foam concrete and aerated concrete, the walls require cladding, both inside and outside. This feature is interconnected with the technical qualities of the materials. For example, brick bath Without insulation it will be cold. The qualities of aerated concrete and foam concrete are almost similar. The structural pores of these materials can collapse under the influence of high humidity and temperature changes. In this case, it is important to perform the cladding of the foundations with the construction of the structure.

The most suitable material for building a bathhouse is wood. Wood is environmentally friendly, reliable and durable, practical and durable. Frame technologies are also used in such construction. In this case, both wooden and metal frames are allowed. The cladding is installed on top of the frame. Be sure to choose high-quality insulation for such a structure, which will serve as insulation for the entire structure.

Finishing frame construction can be made from:

wood;
block panels;
linings.

The interior decoration can be made of plastic. The most economical and profitable technology for constructing baths is frame. The frame does not require a massive foundation. In this case, building materials are not the most expensive. And the weight of the building will not have any additional effect on the soil.

Determining the material for building a bathhouse is an important step. IN construction stores there are typical constructors from ready-made elements. An assembly kit is purchased based on standard developments. Constructor parts can be made with my own hands. Wooden materials (for example, timber, logs, rounded wood) are often used for the construction of bathhouses; block panels are often considered. Having dealt with the raw materials of construction, they move on to design.

Projects

Bathhouse designs with an attic vary in size and layout. The most popular of them include structures 6x6, 6 by 4 m. Despite the fact that the buildings are compact and usually simple, they provide complete relaxation. This option is suitable for small quantity people, as well as those who do not have extra space on the site.

The 6x4 m project plan involves the placement of:

steam rooms;
shower;
vestibule;
verandas.

Some small projects do not include a veranda. Sometimes area entrance area turns into a relaxation room. In this case, a guest room is placed on the attic floor. Sometimes the attic involves placing a storage room.

The staircase is placed so as not to clutter the bathhouse. Structures of 6x6 or 4x6 m will also not occupy the territory of the site. An equipped attic will make the building area more useful. Wherein inner dimensions Bath rooms can vary at the request of the owner during construction.

The design of a bathhouse with an attic of 6x8 m usually accommodates everything necessary for relaxation big company. This building layout even includes a bathroom. More often there is a large terrace and a relaxation room of 20 sq. m. The room can accommodate standard furniture and even a large table. A group of several people can fit at the table, while leaving space for free use.

The building includes a classic shower room and a relaxation room. There will be a spare bedroom on the attic floor. This could be a billiard room, tennis room or gym. The building material will be profiled timber.

A good compromise is the layout of bathhouses 5x5, 5x6, 5 by 9 m. To make visiting a small bathhouse enjoyable, you need to carefully calculate everything. The layout of the premises is important to take into account a well-thought-out plan. For example, in a small bathhouse 5x5 m there will be an entrance hall, a washroom, a steam room, a relaxation room or a storage room on the attic floor.

Choosing a suitable log house project is always a search for a compromise. The bathhouse must accommodate all dimensions. When choosing a 6x9 or 7 by 8 m bathhouse, it is important to take the marking of the area seriously. Think carefully about the placement of the bathhouse (especially if the land is only 6 acres).

One more important parameter is the cost of construction. Logging of large dimensions will require a larger area on the site. For example, a log house with parameters of 4x6 m will cost 10,000-15,000 rubles more than a 4x5 m bathhouse. A larger bathhouse will require more time and fuel for heating. The temperature in the steam room should be sufficient for the heat.

An important parameter for choosing the size of the bathhouse is the number of people who will visit it. If the number of steam lovers does not exceed two people, it is enough to build a small and low structure. For big family and regular guests need a large structure. To correctly indicate the layout, draw drawings.

Zones

Let’s say it’s decided to build a log bathhouse 5x5 meters.

If we consider standard plans functional zones, there are three main ones:

dressing room;
washing room;
steam room

The 5x5 m bathhouse layout option involves placing the firebox not in the dressing room, but in a separate corner, separated by a wall. The same wall separates the dressing room from the steam room. The waiting room will be spacious. It is convenient to place a table and benches, as well as hangers. This room can be a living room.

A 5x5 m bathhouse will accommodate a group of 5-6 people. The attic floor in such a bathhouse is often used as a small rest room. The attic can be equipped with a toilet and shower room. It is definitely worth considering communications.

In a 5x5 m bathhouse, it is important to install the doors correctly. For example, it is important to get directly from the guest room to the wash room. This placement will prevent heat loss from the steam room. The shower room can be highlighted a little less space than a steam room. Plan your steam room carefully. It is important to carefully consider the shapes and sizes of the shelves.

Don’t forget that part of the area will go under the stove and heater. Its location should not be close to the wall, otherwise there will be a risk of fire in the sheathing and wooden walls. They expand the area of small baths by providing the building with a terrace. A small terrace can serve as a summer kitchen. The construction of a terrace will increase the amount of building material.

Communications

The rules imply the preparation of a building project simultaneously with the installation of all necessary communications. You will definitely need water, electricity (sometimes gas). The laying of water pipes takes place during the construction of the structure. You should not lose sight of installing a high-quality ventilation system in all rooms (including rest rooms), otherwise the humidity will increase. Humid air will cause fungus to appear on the walls. Some types of building material will begin to deteriorate quickly.

To maintain optimal heat in winter, it is important to provide a heating structure. Only with additional heating can you achieve optimal temperature conditions in cold weather. In addition to ventilation in the bathhouse, it is important to provide high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation. Installation of communication systems in a two-story building is easier than in a one-story building with extensions.

Work related to planning is a critical stage in the construction of a bathhouse. It must be approached with full responsibility.

Once the planning issue has been resolved, determine the following important organizational steps:

Take into account popular sizes: 6x4, 6x6, 6x8 m.
Consider the materials from which the bathhouse will be constructed.
You can download the program on your PC “3D modeling”. This will simplify the planning stage.

The standard arrangement of rooms is usually as follows:

entrance from the terrace into a small hallway;
further on there is a rest room or dressing room;
Behind it there are two exits: to the bathroom and the steam room.

Sometimes a shower room and a steam room are provided with an additional entrance. All this is located on the first floor. The second floor is often used for entertainment, recreation or household needs. Sometimes a solarium is installed on the second floor. This adds comfort to the rest of a large company.

Buy a ready-made standard construction set. Create a standard bathhouse from an assembly kit. Coming up with your own options for arrangement details is more difficult. If the soil properties on the site are unstable, use frame constructors for the construction of the attic complex. Columnar and screw foundation structures will help strengthen the foundation of the bathhouse.

Be the owner suburban area with a dacha or a cottage for permanent residence, and at the same time not have your own bathhouse - probably few people will agree to this. It’s not just about the opportunity to wash thoroughly in comfortable conditions created for yourself, without fear of any unsanitary conditions. Since ancient times, a bathhouse has been almost the most obligatory element of any farmstead, a symbol of the thoroughness of the owners, a kind of personal medical institution, and often a favorite vacation spot for the whole family and meetings with closest friends.

If the area is large, then the owners can afford a lot in terms of choosing a bathhouse. But what about those who have limited space? It’s okay, and in a small “patch” of the building it is quite possible to fit not only the bathhouse itself, but also additional living space. An example is a 5x4 bathhouse with an attic, the design of which will be discussed in this publication.

It would seem that what can be accommodated in such a small area? Don't rush to conclusions...

If you give in internet search request for baths of the required size, then, for sure, you will receive many options coming from specialized companies engaged in the production and assembly of ready-made building kits. There is plenty to choose from here - in terms of wall material, layout, degree of insulation of the room, and numerous other parameters.

However, it also happens that the owners are not fully satisfied with the layout of the bathhouse building. Another situation is that the family budget does not allow for such an acquisition at once, and future owners are forced to gradually accumulate stocks of building materials in order to later, when ready, build a bathhouse themselves.

In this case, why not try to plan your own construction? It is clear that any permanent structure requires architectural calculations - but they can be ordered with sketches already in hand own project. And each owner of the plot can carry out initial sketches and calculations independently, if he owns basic knowledge mathematics, drawing skills, and has a rough idea of what he wants to get in the end. And if you have experience working with graphical applications on a computer, then the task becomes even easier.

And having a ready-made project in hand, you can either start selecting the necessary materials yourself, or contact the same company, where they can produce a complete set according to the drawings CT for construction.

The article will not technological processes of construction are considered– separate sections of the site are dedicated to this. The main goal is to show how to correctly provide in your project everything necessary for a small wooden bathhouse with an attic.

Bathhouse foundation

Any building needs reliable basis, the role of which is played by the foundation. Which option is preferable?

For a small bathhouse, a shallow one is quite suitable strip foundation. It can be erected on almost any soil, and its depth, tape width, degree of reinforcement, etc. - already depend on the size of the building and the characteristics of a particular site.

Using a strip foundation is not always profitable

For all its advantages, it is still not without its shortcomings. Thus, significant excavation work is expected, high consumption of cement, sand, gravel, especially considering that the recommended base height for a bathhouse is about 500 mm. Absolutely not profitable It will be on a rough area, where there is a significant level difference in the building area. And one more minus - concrete will require no less to fully mature, and during this period all further construction works are suspended.

Another type of concrete foundation is monolithic slab. Although it is not afraid of seasonal soil fluctuations, it will require a lot of building materials, and for a small wooden bathhouse this option seems excessive.

A columnar foundation can significantly reduce the cost of building materials. In addition, it allows you to raise the building itself to the desired height, and helps to “fit” into a moderately rough area. The supports are made of bricks on concrete base, or fill their solution completely or using pipes. The pillars are placed at the corners and along external walls buildings and additionally, for reinforcement, along one or more lines inside the quadrangle.

It would seem to be the optimal solution, but it is also not without vulnerabilities. So, on heaving, clay or loamy soils, especially with close proximity of aquifers, such a foundation will be unreliable. In addition, although the volume of concrete poured is low, its maturation period does not decrease at all.

A pile-screw foundation is probably the best of all existing ones for a bathhouse. Piles screwed into the ground to a depth below the freezing level are not afraid of winter heaving and close proximity to water. The sections of piles protruding above the surface can be brought to the same desired height even with a strong difference in ground level, and connected to each other by grillages, they become an excellent basis for attaching beams or logs of the lower frame.

To install such piles, the efforts of 3 ÷ 4 people will be required without the use of special equipment; excavation work is kept to a minimum. Although the technology involves filling the pipe cavities with concrete solution, it is not at all necessary to wait for it to mature - you can immediately proceed to further installation. Thus, in a few days the foundation will be ready.

So, the starting position is along the axes of the walls of the bathhouse, the given size is 4 × 5 m. The thickness of the walls, just for example, is 250 mm.

The plan of the bathhouse must first be “fitted” into the area

In the case considered in this article, nine supports will be sufficient - four at the corners of the building, one additional one in the center of each side, and one at the intersection of the center lines of the building:

The supports are connected by longitudinal and transverse jumpers - grillages. Usually a channel is used for this.

After installing the lower crown beam along the grillages, you can install basement beams or joists immediately (depending on the type and height of the planned floor). After appropriate waterproofing and insulation, they will become the basis for the flooring.

Schematic of the complex - supports, beams, joists and flooring

Features of the bath foundation

When doing foundation work on the construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the structure. This concerns the height of the base and the advance thought out of the used water drainage system.
A separate article on our website is devoted to the nuances of construction.

External walls and internal partitions. Space planning

What to build the walls of a wooden bathhouse from? Nowadays, there are several options for this.

An ordinary log house is in old Russian traditions. Usually made from coniferous trees and wood, which creates a unique microclimate in the bathhouse. Diameter br even – from 200 to 250 mm.

Methods for laying the crowns of a log house can be different - “with the remainder”, “in the corner”, “in the hook”, “in the head”, “in the paw” - all this requires considerable carpentry skill, that is, without the help of a specialist given It will hardly be possible to get by at the work stage.

A log house involves caulking the cracks between the logs - initially, during the laying of the crowns, and final, after the walls have subsided. The material used is jute, flax tow, felt, moss (“cuckoo flax”) and other natural materials.

Walls made of timber - it is believed that they are much easier to erect, since the blanks, with high-quality material, do not require special carpentry finishing, with the exception of corner lock joints. It is easier to lay insulating material between the beams, since they should fit tightly against one another.

Prices for timber

The design itself is lighter - the material is used in sizes from 100x150 to 150x150 mm, rarely - 200 mm.

Much more expensive, but incomparably more convenient - profiled beams, for example, the so-called "carriage". Such bars or logs are profiled, that is, they have a “tongue-groove” or “bowl” system of mutual coupling.

Very easy to use high-quality profiled timber, “carriage”

When laying the crowns of profiled timber with the simultaneous installation of insulation, a solid surface is obtained with practically no serious cold bridges. Often, sets of such beams are sold with ready-made roll insulation materials, which are precisely calculated to fit the size of the grooves. To “bundle” the corners, special notches are used, for example, “Norwegian lock”.

Prices for profiled timber

profiled timber

Recently, frame structures have become increasingly popular, including in the construction of bathhouses.

On foundation, along the lower piping belt, mounted wooden frame, which is then sheathed outside and inside with natural or composite materials, and a thick layer of insulation is laid between its uprights. Of course, such a design is much cheaper and easier to implement, and with proper assembly and high-quality thermal insulation, it looks little different from a real wooden log house and fully copes with the task of preserving heat in the bathhouse. True, whatever you say, it is still not able to convey the real atmosphere of an array of natural coniferous wood - the presence of “foreign” insulation affects it.

For internal partitions in a bathhouse, either natural beams, profiled or ordinary, or a frame structure can also be used. They often put up a “five-wall” - with internal wall, made of the same material as the external ones.
The type of wood is also important. For a bath, with its high humidity content, optimal solution there will be coniferous wood. Pine is famous for retaining heat very well indoors. A spruce log house will be less susceptible to putrefactive processes. Fir is characterized by increased strength and a pronounced antifungal effect. Most the best option, of course, larch - this wood is practically not afraid of water, and under the influence of moisture it only becomes stronger. However, the cost of timber or larch logs is very high, and not everyone can afford such a luxury. In addition, when heated strongly, larch gives off a too cloying resinous smell, which may not suit everyone.

However, experienced masters They still give recommendations not to spare any expense, and at least lay the most vulnerable place - the two lower crowns - from larch.

Deciduous tree species are practically not used for bathhouses, with the exception, however, of aspen, which has a natural antiseptic effect and thereby improves the health of the bathhouse atmosphere.

However, let's return to our project. With the foundation and outer contour of the building sorted out, it’s time to outline the interior spaces.

In order to carry out full-fledged bath procedures, the bathhouse must have a steam room, a washing room, a relaxation room or a dressing room. It would be nice if, when entering from the street, a person gets not right away in the dressing room, and in the vestibule - this will reduce the loss of precious heat. Let's try to place all these rooms in our project, for example - like this.

These sizes should be quite sufficient. The length of the steam room allows you to arrange two-meter floors, which will accommodate even a tall person at full height and will easily leave room for a heater stove. A washing room in a small family bath does not need too large an area - you can install a standard size shower tray or stall (900x900 mm) and hang a tilting vat with cold water for dousing. The area of the dressing room will allow you to install a table with chairs (couch) for several people. In the hallway, in the free space, you can install shelves for storing bath utensils.

For external walls (for example), a material of 250 mm thickness was used, for internal walls 100 mm will be quite sufficient.

We are planning to install doors. At the entrance you can install a wider door, 800 or 900 mm, with a height of 2000 mm. Doors to the washing room and steam room of this size are not needed - a 600 mm leaf with a height of 180 mm is enough. At the same time, you should remember the recommendation - all doors in the bathhouse, with the exception of the entrance one, should have a threshold of approximately 150 mm - in order to exclude “creeping” drafts along the floor.

Pay special attention - all doors, without exception, are placed so that they open towards the exit from the bathhouse. This - special requirement safety: in emergency circumstances it is much easier to jump out doorway a traffic jam will not be created.

Since the bathhouse is located on a base with a height of 500 mm, plus the lower crown beam has another 200 mm, it is necessary to provide a ladder, at least the simplest one - wooden. In the example under consideration, these are three steps (the role of the fourth is played by the floor surface), each 175 mm high and 233 mm deep.

As planned, we are planning a bathhouse with an attic. This means that it is necessary to place a ladder to climb into the attic space. Performing it outside is not too good decision. Go out after bath procedures outside, in the cold, wind, rain, it is extremely inconvenient to climb into a residential attic. Let's try to install a staircase - there is a convenient place for this, formed by the separation of the hallway wall.

Here the stairs practically do not bother anyone. The advantage of its convenience is that it rests on the outer wall and on the partition. Installation of such a staircase structure is much easier than just a “hanging” one. The result was 11 steps, each 255 mm high. It’s a bit steep, but here you can’t really run away.

You need to think about ventilation (ventilation) of the premises and their natural lighting. So, we “install” windows. Two windows in the rest room will give good illumination, one will illuminate the staircase to the attic, and one more will illuminate the vestibule.

Windows in the rest room and vestibule - for ventilation and natural light...

The height from the floor to the window sill is 1100 mm, the window height is 1000 mm with a width of 700. In the vestibule there is a smaller window - 500 × 500 mm.

This arrangement and number of windows is not a dogma at all, and if someone thinks the number or size is excessive, then they can be changed. But it is also necessary to provide a window in the washing room - it should not be large, since it will mainly serve to ventilate the room.

... and one small one in the washing room - for ventilation

The drawing shows a window at a height of 2 meters from the floor, dimensions 500 × 300 mm.

In general terms, the layout of the bathhouse itself is complete. You can try to visualize what we got:

Everything is quite convenient and rational. You can move on to the attic structure.

Attic - rafter system and roofing

Roof installation and roofing is an extremely important and voluminous issue that requires consideration in separate publications. Here, more attention will be paid to the choice of design in relation to the project already being developed.

If a bathhouse is planned with an attic, then, most likely, this means a full-fledged living space, which, for example, can serve to accommodate visiting guests. In addition, it will be very convenient for the owners themselves to relax after a good bath, without going outside, but by going upstairs to a furnished room.

This is said in order to make it clear that the attic should not be a dark “nook” in which you cannot turn around or stand up to your full height. This means you need to carefully calculate the parameters rafter system.

So, beams are laid and secured on the finished walls attic floor, a flooring has been made, which will later be brought to the level of the insulated bath ceiling (attic floor). Above there is a rafter system, which rests on beams or on the upper crown (mauerlat). What type of rafter system should I choose?

There’s no need to even talk about a single-slope house - on the scale of such a small bathhouse, it would be simply impossible to build an attic.

A gable roof is a very big question, and here's why. Let's look at the diagram:

This is a drawing done to scale. With a span of 4 meters and a normal roof slope (45°), the height in the ridge part will be only 2 meters - and this does not take into account the structure itself and the necessary insulation of the roof slopes from the inside. Even if we assume that it is possible to hem the ceiling at a height of 1800 mm (which in itself is not enough), then we still end up with an extremely narrow “pencil case”, only 500 mm wide (green rectangle). There is simply no need to talk about any amenities in such an attic.

You can, of course, make a gable roof with a steeper slope. But here, too, the possibilities are unlimited. We increase the angle of the slope to 60°, and it will be possible to walk in the center of the attic without bending, but also in a strip of only about one and a half meters. But the height of the ridge has already increased to 3, 6 meters! And every even slight increase in the angle will lead to a sharp increase in the bulkiness of the roofing structure, its complication, and weight, since long runs will require lumber of a larger cross-section. Plus, the windage of the roof, that is, its exposure to wind load, is rapidly increasing.

It’s a different matter if you plan the attic according to the “broken pattern” shown in the figure below.

The “broken” design gives a huge gain in usable space

The lower rafter legs are placed at an angle of 75°, the upper ones - 30° to the horizon. The result is a quite decent room with a height of 2 and a width of 2.9 meters, with a total length of the building of about 5 m. And at the same time, the total height of the entire roof structure is only 2.86 m, which is not so much.

Even on a small building, the attic “broken” roof looks very organic

Of course, such a rafter system will be more difficult to implement, since it includes a considerable number of load-bearing and reinforcing parts.

The main elements of the “broken” rafter system

1 – attic floor beams.

2 – side drains (the cladding of the attic walls often runs along them).

3 – run.

4 – attic floor beams.

5 – lower rafter legs.

6 - upper rafters.

7 – central pillars.

8 - ridge beam.

For the rafter system you need quality lumber– beams or boards (round timber is less commonly used). The cross section of the rafters depends on the span length (distance between two support points rafter leg) and installation step. There are corresponding formulas for calculation, but you can also be guided by average values, for example, from the table below:

Section of the rafter leg, mm	Distance between support points (span length), mm
	3000	3500	4000	4500	5000
Board
40×140	1400	1000	-	-	-
50×180	1500	1200	900	-	-
50×200	-	1500	1100	700	-
60×220	-	-	1200	900	-
Round timber, Ø mm
130	1000	700	-	-	-
140	1400	1000	700	-	-
150	1500	1300	900	-	-
160	-	1400	1000	700	-
170	-	1400	1100	-	-
180	-	-	1500	1200	900
timber
160/200	1300	1000	700	-	-
180/200	-	-	1000	-	-
200/200	-	-	1200	1000	700
220/200	-	-	1500	1300	900

The design is quite complicated to implement, but it is worth it. Even over small sauna 5 × 4 meters turns out to be a spacious room where you can easily organize several sleeping places or a cozy lounge for relaxation.

In relation to our project – quite a spacious room

The gables on both sides are covered with wood with mandatory insulation, and windows are cut into them. In addition, if desired, you can install skylights on roof slopes - this innovation has already received wide recognition among homeowners.

You can, of course, change the design of the roof, placing the gables on the wide, 5-meter side of the house, and the slopes on the short side. True, in this case you will have to think about a different location for the stairs to the attic - so that it is preferably located along the gable part.

Roofing is at the owners' choice. Slate has already lost its former popularity, a simple roofing material will too “depreciate” the appearance of the built bathhouse. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio, it is probably metal tiles or roofing sheeting, they look original and will last quite a long time.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tiles

By by and large, the main design of the bathhouse structure has been completed. Of course, there is still a lot of work to be done.

First of all, you need to think about the model and location of the sauna stove. It is recommended to opt for the option of a ready-made, factory-assembled stove-heater, in which the combustion part can be placed in the dressing room.

In the steam room there are only heated surfaces and a red-hot heater, and from the rest room-restroom it is easier to fire the fire and control the combustion. In addition, if equipped with a transparent fireplace glass, this will add special comfort to the room.

How to install a stove in a wooden bathhouse?

Installing a heating device in a wooden structure always requires special precautions. How to do it correctly - in a special publication on our website.

The issues of laying utilities, waterproofing and insulation, finishing and equipping the bathhouse with the necessary accessories and accessories are not discussed in this article - these are topics for separate detailed discussions.

Video: construction of a log bathhouse with a “broken” attic

To be the owner of a country plot with a dacha or a cottage for permanent residence, and at the same time not have your own bathhouse - probably few people will agree to this. It’s not just about the opportunity to wash thoroughly in comfortable conditions created for yourself, without fear of any unsanitary conditions. Since ancient times, a bathhouse has been almost the most obligatory element of any farmstead, a symbol of the thoroughness of the owners, a kind of personal medical institution, and often a favorite vacation spot for the whole family and meetings with closest friends.

It would seem that what can be accommodated in such a small area? Don't rush to conclusions...

Choose a ready-made project, or plan it yourself?

If you put a search query on the Internet about baths of the required size, you will probably get a lot of options coming from specialized companies involved in the production and assembly of ready-made construction kits. There is plenty to choose from - in terms of wall material, layout, degree of insulation of the room, and numerous other parameters.

In this case, why not try to plan your own construction? It is clear that any capital structure requires architectural calculations - but they can be ordered, already having outlines of your own project in hand. And every owner of the site can carry out initial sketches and calculations independently, if he has basic knowledge of mathematics, drawing skills, and has a rough idea of what he wants to get in the end. And if you have experience working with graphical applications on a computer, then the task becomes even easier.

And having a ready-made project in hand, you can either select the necessary materials yourself, or contact the same company, where they can produce a complete set for construction based on the drawings.

The article will not discuss construction processes - separate sections of the site are devoted to this. The main goal is to show how to correctly provide in your project everything necessary for a small wooden bathhouse with an attic.

Bathhouse foundation

Any building needs a reliable foundation, the role of which is played by the foundation. Which option is preferable?

For a small bathhouse, a shallow strip foundation is quite suitable. It can be erected on almost any soil, and its depth, tape width, degree of reinforcement, etc. - already depend on the size of the building and the characteristics of a particular site.

For all its advantages, it is still not without its shortcomings. Thus, significant excavation work is expected, high consumption of cement, sand, gravel, especially considering that the recommended base height for a bathhouse is about 500 mm. It will be absolutely unprofitable on a rough area, where there is a significant level difference in the building area. And one more minus - concrete will require no less to fully mature, and during this period all further construction work is suspended.

Another type of concrete foundation is a monolithic slab. Although it is not afraid of seasonal soil fluctuations, it will require a lot of building materials, and for a small wooden bathhouse this option seems excessive.

A columnar foundation can significantly reduce the cost of building materials. In addition, it allows you to raise the building itself to the desired height, and helps to “fit” into a moderately rough area. The supports are made of bricks on a concrete base, or they are filled with mortar completely or using pipes. The pillars are placed at the corners and along the outer walls of the building and, additionally, for reinforcement, along one or more lines inside the quadrangle.

A pile-screw foundation is probably the best of all existing ones for a bathhouse. Piles screwed into the ground to a depth below the freezing level are not afraid of winter heaving and close proximity to water. The sections of piles protruding above the surface can be brought to the same desired height even with a strong difference in ground level, and connected to each other by grillages, they become an excellent basis for attaching beams or logs of the lower frame.

So, the starting position is along the axes of the walls of the bathhouse, the given size is 4 × 5 m. The thickness of the walls, just for example, is 250 mm.

The plan of the bathhouse must first be “fitted” into the area

The supports are connected by longitudinal and transverse jumpers - grillages. Usually a channel is used for this.

Features of the bath foundation

When doing foundation work on the construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the structure. This concerns the height of the base and the advance thought out of the used water drainage system.
The nuances of construction bathhouse foundation with drain A separate article on our website is devoted to this.

External walls and internal partitions. Space planning

What to build the walls of a wooden bathhouse from? Nowadays, there are several options for this.

An ordinary log house is in old Russian traditions. Usually made from coniferous wood, which creates a unique microclimate in the bathhouse. The diameter of the logs is from 200 to 250 mm.

Methods for laying the crowns of a log house can be different - “with the rest”, “in the corner”, “in the hook”, “in the head”, “in the paw” - all this requires considerable carpentry skill, that is, without the help of a specialist at this stage of work it will hardly be possible to get by.

A log house involves caulking the cracks between the logs - initially, during the laying of the crowns, and final, after the walls have subsided. The materials used are jute, linen tow, felt, moss (“cuckoo flax”) and other natural materials.

Walls made of timber - it is believed that they are much easier to erect, since the blanks, with high-quality material, do not require special carpentry finishing, with the exception of corner lock joints. It is easier to lay insulating material between the beams, since they should fit tightly against one another.

The design itself is lighter - the material is used in sizes from 100x150 to 150x150 mm, rarely - 200 mm.

Much more expensive, but incomparably more convenient - profiled beams, for example, the so-called “carriage”. Such bars or logs are profiled, that is, they have a “tongue-groove” or “bowl” system of mutual coupling.

High-quality profiled timber, “carriage”, is very easy to use

Recently, frame structures have become increasingly popular, including in the construction of bathhouses.

On the foundation, along the lower belt of the frame, a wooden frame is mounted, which is then sheathed outside and inside with natural or composite materials, and a thick layer of insulation is laid between its posts. Of course, such a design is much cheaper and easier to implement, and with proper assembly and high-quality thermal insulation, it looks little different from a real wooden log house and fully copes with the task of preserving heat in the bathhouse. True, whatever you say, it is still not able to convey the real atmosphere of an array of natural coniferous wood - the presence of “foreign” insulation affects it.

For internal partitions in a bathhouse, either natural beams, profiled or ordinary, or a frame structure can also be used. They often install a “five-walled” structure - with an inner wall made of the same material as the outer ones.
The type of wood is also important. For a bathhouse, with its high humidity content, the optimal solution would be coniferous wood. Pine is famous for retaining heat very well indoors. A spruce log house will be less susceptible to putrefactive processes. Fir is characterized by increased strength and a pronounced antifungal effect. The best option, of course, is larch - this wood is practically not afraid of water, and only becomes stronger when exposed to moisture. However, the cost of timber or larch logs is very high, and not everyone can afford such a luxury. In addition, when heated strongly, larch gives off a too cloying resinous smell, which may not suit everyone.

However, let's return to our project. With the foundation and outer contour of the building sorted out, it’s time to outline the interior spaces.

In order to carry out full-fledged bath procedures, the bathhouse must have a steam room, a washing room, a relaxation room or a dressing room. It would be nice if, when entering from the street, a person does not immediately end up in the dressing room, but in the vestibule - this will reduce the loss of precious heat. Let's try to place all these rooms in our project, for example - like this.

For external walls (for example), a material of 250 mm thickness was used, for internal walls 100 mm will be quite sufficient.

Pay special attention - all doors, without exception, are placed so that they open towards the exit from the bathhouse. This is a special safety requirement: in emergency circumstances, it is much easier to jump out and a “traffic jam” will not be created in the doorway.

As planned, we are planning a bathhouse with an attic. This means that it is necessary to place a ladder to climb into the attic space. Performing it outside is not a very good solution. After bath procedures, going outside into the cold, wind, and rain to go up to the living attic is extremely inconvenient. Let's try to install a staircase - there is a convenient place for this, formed by the separation of the hallway wall.

You need to think about ventilation (ventilation) of the premises and their natural lighting. So, we “install” windows. Two windows in the rest room will provide good illumination, one will illuminate the staircase to the attic, and one more will illuminate the vestibule.

Windows in the rest room and vestibule - for ventilation and natural light...

The height from the floor to the window sill is 1100 mm, the window height is 1000 mm with a width of 700. In the vestibule there is a smaller window - 500 × 500 mm.

... and one small one in the washing room - for ventilation

The drawing shows a window at a height of 2 meters from the floor, dimensions 500 × 300 mm.

In general terms, the layout of the bathhouse itself is complete. You can try to visualize what we got:

Everything is quite convenient and rational. You can move on to the attic structure.

Attic - rafter system and roofing

This is said in order to make it clear that the attic should not be a dark “nook” in which you cannot turn around or stand up to your full height. This means that you need to carefully calculate the parameters of the rafter system.

So, the attic floor beams are laid and secured onto the finished walls, a flooring is made, which will later be brought to the level of the insulated bath ceiling (attic floor). Above there is a rafter system, which rests on beams or on the upper crown (mauerlat). What type of rafter system should I choose?

There’s no need to even talk about a single-slope house - on the scale of such a small bathhouse, it would be simply impossible to build an attic.

A gable roof is a very big question, and here's why. Let's look at the diagram:

You can, of course, make a gable roof with a steeper slope. But here, too, the possibilities are unlimited. We increase the angle of the slope to 60°, and it will be possible to walk in the center of the attic without bending, but also in a strip of only about one and a half meters. But the height of the ridge has already grown to 3.6 meters! And every even slight increase in the angle will lead to a sharp increase in the bulkiness of the roofing structure, its complication, and weight, since long runs will require lumber of a larger cross-section. Plus, the windage of the roof, that is, its exposure to wind load, is rapidly increasing.

It’s a different matter if you plan the attic according to the “broken pattern” shown in the figure below.

The “broken” design gives a huge gain in usable space

Even on a small building, the attic “broken” roof looks very organic

Of course, such a rafter system will be more difficult to implement, since it includes a considerable number of load-bearing and reinforcing parts.

The main elements of the rafter “broken” system

1 – attic floor beams.

2 – side drains (the cladding of the attic walls often runs along them).

3 – run.

4 – attic floor beams.

5 – lower rafter legs.

6 - upper rafters.

7 – central pillars.

8 - ridge beam.

For the rafter system, you need high-quality lumber - beams or boards (round timber is less commonly used). The cross-section of the rafters depends on the span length (the distance between two support points of the rafter leg) and the installation pitch. There are corresponding formulas for calculation, but you can also use average values, for example, from the table below:

Section of the rafter leg, mm Distance between support points (span length), mm


	3000	3500	4000	4500	5000
Board
40×140	1400	1000	-	-
50×180	1500	1200	900	-
50×200	-	1500	1100	700	-
60×220	-	1200	900	-
Round timber, Ø mm
130	1000	700	-	-
140	1400	1000	700	-
150	1500	1300	900	-
160	-	1400	1000	700	-
170	-	1400	1100	-
180	-	1500	1200	900
timber
160/200	1300	1000	700	-
180/200	-	1000	-
200/200	-	1200	1000	700
220/200	-	1500	1300	900

The design is quite complicated to implement, but it is worth it. Even above a small bathhouse of 5 × 4 meters, you get a spacious room where you can easily organize several sleeping places or a cozy lounge for relaxation.

The gables on both sides are covered with wood with mandatory insulation, and windows are cut into them. In addition, if desired, you can install skylights on the roof slopes - this innovation has already received wide recognition among homeowners.

Roofing is at the owners' choice. Slate has already lost its former popularity, a simple roofing material will too “depreciate” the appearance of the built bathhouse. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio is probably metal tiles or corrugated roofing sheets; they look original and will last quite a long time.

By and large, the main design of the bathhouse structure has been completed. Of course, there is still a lot of work to be done.

First of all, you need to think about the model and location of the sauna stove. It is recommended to choose the option of a ready-made, factory-assembled stove-heater, in which the combustion part can be placed in the dressing room.

In the steam room there are only heated surfaces and a red-hot heater, and from the rest room-restroom it is easier to fire the fire and control the combustion. In addition, if the stove is equipped with a transparent fireplace glass, this will add special comfort to the room.

How to install a stove in a wooden bathhouse?

Installing a heating device in a wooden structure always requires special precautions. How to do it right install the stove on wooden floor – in a special publication on our website.

Video: construction of a log bathhouse with a “broken” attic

Bathhouse 4x5 with attic + DIY construction

In a cozy bathhouse with an attic you can not only steam and wash, but also relax with pleasure. It is convenient to accommodate unexpected guests or have fun with friends. It is quite possible to build such a bathhouse yourself. However, first you need to decide not only on its location, but also on the internal layout.

Project selection

On a small plot of land It is advisable to install a bathhouse with an attic measuring 4 by 5 meters. Despite the fact that it has an area of only 20 sq. m., it can easily accommodate a steam room, a washroom and a relaxation room. And on the second floor you will get a full-fledged free room. However, the size of the premises will be significantly reduced due to the need to arrange stairs.

Before starting construction, you should select a project. For a bathhouse with an area of 20 sq.m. their number is small.

This is one of the most simple projects. The spacious washroom can easily accommodate both a bathtub and a shower stall. This layout is best suited for those who like to take water treatments. The staircase to the second floor will be quite steep. But this will save space in the rest room.

Two more options for the location of rooms in the bathhouse look like this.

Here it is possible to arrange a more free rest room, but the washroom and steam room are much smaller. This option will appeal to those who prefer to relax comfortably after taking bath procedures. In the first sketch the staircase goes along 4 meter wall. This allows you to move the front door away from the stove. In the second sketch, the staircase is located along a 5-meter wall. But the entrance is next to the firebox. This arrangement can make the operation of this room inconvenient.

Foundation arrangement

After choosing a project, you can begin laying the foundation. Since the building will be two-story, the foundation for it must be strong and reliable. A mandatory item is the arrangement of a place for the stove.

There are several main types of foundations for a bathhouse.

1. Screw piles

Screw piles installed in two days at any time of the year. Their installation does not require lengthy excavation work or preliminary preparation of the foundation. According to the project, markings are made, the specified length of the walls is especially carefully observed and the equality of the diagonals is checked.

Then the piles are screwed in manually or using special equipment.

The next day, concrete solution is poured into them.


	The screw piles themselves are steel pipe(usually over 100 mm in diameter), with one pointed end around which a spiral cutting blade is welded. On some modifications, the shape of the blades and their number may vary.
	Included with the piles are the heads for them - couplings with welded-on and gusset-reinforced mounting platforms. The diameter of the coupling is such that it fits tightly onto the pile shaft.
	After marking the area at the points where the piles are installed, it is recommended to make small indentations, about 300 mm, using a hand or motorized drill, or simply a shovel. Many craftsmen advise pouring plenty of water on them to soften the surface layers - so screw pile will crash into the ground easier.
	The pile is installed vertically. A powerful kingpin is threaded into the hole located at the top of the barrel, onto which long pipes-levers will be placed to impart a rotational movement.
	The most labor-intensive process is, in fact, the screwing of the pile itself. This will require the efforts of at least two people, but sometimes even this amount is not enough - it all depends on the density of the soil and the depth of screwing. To control immersion, the necessary mark is made on the barrel in advance. During screwing, one of the workers constantly monitors the verticality of the pile and corrects it. It is most convenient to control with two building levels with a magnetic base, installed in planes perpendicular to one another.
	After the piles are screwed to the required depth, the height of the future foundation is marked. For this, you can use, for example, a water level. Markings are applied to the piles strictly at one horizontal level.
	Exactly along the marking lines, the tops of the piles, with the eyes probably deformed when screwed in, are cut off with a grinder.
	Prepare regular sand- cement mortar(3:1) is a fairly liquid consistency. Through a funnel, the pile cavities are filled with concrete.
	A pile filled with concrete mortar. It is not necessary to wait for the concrete to harden; you can immediately proceed to subsequent operations.
	The heads are tightly fitted onto the piles and welded to them with a continuous seam. The mounting area of the head can be used for installing a steel grillage or for bolting wooden trim (of course, after installing the waterproofing layer).
	Before installing the wooden crown, to impart overall strength and stability to the structure, it is advisable to tie the piles with a belt made of profiled pipe, welded slightly below the caps.
	Another option is to install and weld a powerful grillage made of channel bars to the installation sites.
	In any case, upon completion of installation of the metal component pile foundation slag is chipped off and welds are cleaned, rust is removed and the entire structure is coated with an anti-corrosion primer.

Immediately after installing the foundation, you can begin building walls. First, roofing material is laid on the piles, and then the lower beam, treated with an antiseptic.

However, it will still be necessary to prepare a flat area for the stove and fill it with concrete.

The strip foundation for a bathhouse is one of the most common. To equip it, it will be necessary to dig a trench around the perimeter of the future bathhouse. Its depth depends on the type of soil, wall material, groundwater level and soil freezing depth:

on the lungs and sandy soils– not less than 70 cm;
on rocky and gravelly soils - from 20 to 30 cm.
on heaving soils - below the freezing depth.

RegionsSoil freezing depth, cm


Vorkuta, Surgut, Nizhnevartovsk, Salekhard	240
Omsk, Novosibirsk	220
Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Kurgan, Kostanay	200
Ekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Perm	190
Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg	180
Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk	170
Samara, Uralsk	160
Vologda, Kostroma, Penza, Saratov	150
Voronezh, Perm, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Yaroslavl	140
Volgograd, Kursk, Smolensk	120
Pskov, Astrakhan	110
Belgorod, Kursk, Kaliningrad	100
Rostov	90
Krasnodar	80
Nalchik, Stavropol	60

Building under construction Rocky soil Dense clayey and loamy soils Sandstones consisting of compacted dry sand Silty soils, soft sandstones Very soft sandstones, silty soils, sandy loams Peat soils


Compact one-story bathhouse	20	30	40	45	65
Bath house with attic	30	35	60	65	85	Strip foundation is not used

The width of the strip foundation depends on the type of material from which the walls will be built. Usually it does not exceed 40 cm.

The installation of a strip foundation for a bathhouse is carried out as follows:

At the same stage, communications (water and electricity) are supplied and a pipe is installed through which water will flow out of the bathhouse.

Illustration Description of the operations performed


	The future foundation is marked - cords are pulled, which will determine its dimensions, shape and width of the tape. The straightness of the corners must be checked and the diagonals measured.
	The top fertile layer of soil is cut off and trenching begins, so that the required depth is ensured, taking into account the sand and gravel cushion, and the width, taking into account the installation of boards or formwork panels.
	In this case, the soil is stable, so a tape depth of 500 mm will be sufficient.
	A sand cushion is poured into the bottom of the trenches. Its thickness for a shallow foundation is at least 70 mm, for deep foundations it is about 150 mm. The sand is moistened and thoroughly compacted. It is advisable to fill and compact a layer of crushed stone of the same height on top of it.
	The formwork is being installed. The height of the future concrete plinth is usually taken at least 200 mm from the ground level. If you plan to build a bathhouse from cinder blocks, the base will need to be raised to 500 mm, although this can later be done with brickwork. When installing formwork, mandatory control of its correctness is carried out. geometric shapes, which will be transmitted to the concrete tape, and the horizontal level.
	To ensure that the formwork does not deform from the pressure of the concrete solution from the inside, it is reinforced with jumpers - spacers and, around the perimeter, stops.
	The reinforcing belt lattice is tied and installed in the formwork. In this case, the bathhouse is planned to be small, and it is enough to install the grate in one row in the center of the strip.
	Holes are cut on each side, into which 100 mm pieces of sewer pipe are installed. Thus, after filling the tape, openings will be obtained for natural ventilation of the underground space of the bathhouse. If you plan to install an insulated bath floor directly on the ground, there is no need for such ventilation ducts.
	But this is a mandatory element. Pits are dug on both sides of the formwork in the selected location. Then, windows are cut into the boards or boards in order to pass through them a 50 mm (sometimes, with large planned volumes of drainage - 100 mm) sewer pipe, through which water will be drained from the bathhouse. It must be located with a mandatory slope outward, approximately 10 ÷ 15 degrees. To position it accurately, you can use plastic plates with holes precisely adjusted to the diameter of the pipe. These plates can be easily secured to the formwork with self-tapping screws, as shown in the figure.
	You can proceed to pouring the concrete solution. The most convenient way, of course, is to order the required volume already finished form in a specialized organization, with delivery and mechanized filling. In this case, it is necessary to think in advance about the access routes for the concrete truck. The solution is poured evenly, in layers of approximately 200 mm. To prevent the formation of voids in the thickness of the tape, “bayoneting” is carried out (piercing the poured concrete with reinforcement or a shovel), and the formwork is tapped. Concrete is distributed and leveled with shovels and trowels, so as to ensure access to the established general horizontal level.
	If it is not possible to order a ready-made solution, or the services seem too expensive, you can easily do it yourself, provided that you have a concrete mixer at your disposal. It is important to fill the fill at one time - then good solidity of the tape will be ensured. The solution is prepared with cement m400 (1 part), sand (3 parts) and clean crushed stone without foreign inclusions - 4 parts.
	After pouring and leveling the surface, the strip foundation is left to set and gain the required strength. To prevent the surface from drying out and cracking, it is advisable to moisten the surface with water after a day and then in the first 3 ÷ 4 days, followed by covering it with plastic film.
	In order not to waste time during the period of initial strengthening of the foundations, you can devote it to choosing the upper layers of fertile soil - where floors of one type or another will subsequently be installed.
	It is recommended to remove the formwork no earlier than after a week - during this time the concrete will gain about 50% of its design strength.
	Full ripening will be achieved (if operated in normal summer temperatures) within a month. And the next operation will be waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt, which it is still advisable to attach to a layer of tar mastic using a “hot” method.
	The laid brick plinth also needs waterproofing of its horizontal surface. This is done in the same way, using roofing felt. The foundation can be considered ready for raising any walls of the bathhouse on its basis. The possibility of draining water is also provided.

Sand and crushed stone are poured into the wash area and leveled so that a slight slope towards the drain hole, roll out the waterproofing membrane. A layer of expanded clay is laid on top, then concrete is poured. In this case, it is necessary to observe a strict slope of the level of the finished screed towards the drain hole.

In the photo - guides for pouring a floor with a slope

The site for the furnace is prepared as follows:

dig a hole to a depth of 50-70 cm, which is slightly larger in width and length than the size of the oven;
a 30 cm layer of sand is placed on the bottom, which is thoroughly compacted;
then they fill in a layer of stones and rubble, spill it with water and level it;
lay a layer of waterproofing (roofing felt, glassine, glass insulation, etc.);
formwork and reinforcement frame are installed and concrete is poured.

You should be especially careful when preparing this site, since the stove is quite heavy. Improper work can lead to premature cracking of the base.

After the foundation is completed, the construction of walls begins.

Selection of material for construction

A 4*5 bathhouse with an attic can be built from:

timber;
logs;
heat blocks or foam blocks.

The choice of material depends solely on personal preference.

Most often, site owners purchase a ready-made log house from rounded or regular logs. Each part in it is numbered; during construction, you just need to stack them on top of each other, observing the correct sequence.

1. Log sauna

Stages of constructing a bathhouse from logs:

carry out installation lower crowns log house according to the diagram;
check diagonals, compliance of angles and level;
treat the lower logs with an antiseptic;
install logs;
carry out further laying of logs, installing inter-crown insulation between them;
The logs are connected to each other by drilling holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm into them and driving in dowels. The distance between the fastenings is from 50 to 100 cm; in adjacent logs they are placed in a checkerboard pattern. When chopping into the paw, an additional dowel is installed in each corner joint;
install the rafter system and install the roof.

2. Bathhouse made of timber

You can build a bathhouse with a 4*5 attic from timber yourself. This will require approximately 10 cubic meters. timber 200*200. The result is a high-quality, warm and durable structure. There are many ways to connect timber to each other. One of the most reliable is the “dovetail”. In addition to this, there is also a main tenon, a locking groove and many others.

The choice of method should be made depending on the design features of the building being constructed.

Connection of timber along the length

Beam connection

The sequence of construction of a bathhouse made of timber:

Blocks are used much less frequently for the construction of bathhouses, although their thermal insulating properties are often not inferior to wood. In addition, they do not burn, allow steam to pass through well and do not rot. However, not every block is suitable for a bathhouse. It must have high vapor permeability and not contain harmful substances.

The construction of bathhouse walls from blocks (main stages of work) is reflected in the table.

IllustrationDescription


	Using a level, determine the highest corner of the foundation from which to begin laying the blocks
	Prepare a cement-sand mixture
	Pull the string level from one corner of the structure to the other
	Begin laying the first row on cement mortar, constantly monitoring the evenness of the surface
	Tap each block with a rubber hammer, adjusting it to the desired level. Check the evenness of each row of masonry using a laser level
	Subsequent rows are laid on special glue for blocks, which is diluted immediately before starting work and applied to blocks no more than 5 mm thick
	The Mauerlat is installed on the top row

Bathhouse walls made of blocks require additional insulation. From the inside, it will be possible to attach foil material to them, which will reflect heat and retain it indoors for a long time, and on the outside it is best to install a ventilated façade with mineral wool insulation.

Insulation and moisture protection of a bath using foil films

External insulation option

For a bathhouse with a 4x5 attic, you can choose a metal or brick stove.

1. Metal stove

Metal stove heats up faster and provides quick heating of the room. However, it also cools down within a short time. Installation metal furnace does not take much time and is done as follows:

The selected oven is installed on the prepared surface. Its power must correspond to the volume of rooms that are planned to be heated.
a tank is connected to the stove, then a damper, then there is an adapter for a sandwich and an insulated sandwich pipe, which will go to the second floor;
V interfloor covering a ceiling groove is installed, through which a sandwich pipe passes;
the pipes are routed through the roof through a special master flash, which will ensure sealing of the passage opening;
in total, the chimney is mounted at least 4 meters in height.

The wall near the stove should be lined with bricks or sheathed with asbestos and thick sheets of iron. If you plan to install a firebox inside the partition between the steam room and the dressing room, then it should be lined with refractory bricks. All pipe connections between each other should be sealed.

2. Brick oven

Brick oven It takes longer to heat up than iron, but it retains heat for a long time. You can fold it yourself or seek help from specialists.

For independent masonry you will need:

fire bricks;
mortar for laying stoves;
cast iron grates, valves, doors;
row masonry diagram;
metal sheets;
trowel;
wire.

Each row of bricks should be laid according to the chosen pattern, and they should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Coincidence of vertical seams between bricks is not allowed. Fastening the doors and installing smoke ducts must be carried out strictly according to the instructions, then the finished stove will serve for many years without any problems. Do not forget about installing cleaning doors and valves.

Video - Brick stove for a bath - how to think through all the nuances

Video - Do-it-yourself heater stove

Floor installation

Before you start installing the floor, you should decide on its type. It can be either wooden or concrete.

Wooden floors in a bathhouse can be built to leak or not. The choice of method should be made depending on the frequency of operation of the structure and the climatic conditions of the region in which it is located. Leaking floors are usually built in bathhouses, which are used only in the warm season. In winter, they will emit extreme cold due to the lack of insulation. To arrange this structure, it will be enough to lay logs in the washroom and nail boards to them on top. In this case, gaps of several mm should be left between the boards so that water can drain into them. Since the lower floor level had already been prepared in advance with a drain drainage pipe, then the water will simply go into it.

Leak-resistant wood floors

Wooden leaky floor

Leak-resistant wood floors are a more complex structure. They are laid out as follows:

It should be taken into account that the boards must be treated with waterproofing and protective agents. There is no need to provide a floor slope in the relaxation room and steam room.

2. Concrete floors in the bathhouse

Concrete floors are less warm, but more durable than wood. To set them up you need:

level the area inside the bathhouse;
cover it with fine gravel and sand, compact it;
pour a thin layer of concrete;
lay insulation;
install the waterproofing layer;
lay the reinforcing mesh;
install level beacons;
attach damper tape along the walls and partitions;
pour concrete solution;
perform the finishing screed device.

Video - Installation of floors in the bathhouse

Electric or water heated floors should be installed immediately inside the screed.

Infrared heating elements can be laid directly under the floor covering.

Video - Electric heated floor in a bathhouse

Roof

In a bathhouse with an attic, special attention should be paid to waterproofing the ceiling of the first floor. The steam room and washroom should be protected especially carefully. After installing the floor joists and subfloor of the second floor, foil insulation should be attached to them from below using a stapler. Tape all joints between strips with aluminum tape. Then put a layer of insulation and another layer of waterproofing on top of the subfloor. And only then install the floorboards on the second floor.

Video - Ceiling in the bathhouse

An important point when building a bathhouse is proper ventilation in each room.

The roof in a bathhouse with an attic can be single-pitch or gable. However pitched roof will significantly reduce the area of the room on the second floor. Therefore, in a bathhouse with an area of only 20 sq.m. It is more expedient to make a gable roof.

The rafter system is calculated in advance. Racks are installed on the floor joists, to which the attic floor beams, as well as side and ridge rafters, are attached. The distances and angle of inclination must correspond to the length of the rafters and ensure structural rigidity.

Then the sheathing and waterproofing are attached to the rafters. The roof covering is already screwed onto it. This can be slate, ondulin, metal tiles, etc. After this, insulation, vapor barrier and wooden slats. They are installed finishing materials. Insulation thickness in attic room must be at least 200 mm.

Interior decoration

It is possible to install windows and doors, as well as to carry out finishing work inside a wooden bathhouse only after it has shrunk. Any actions performed earlier than a year after construction may lead to a negative result.

To install windows in a log house, you must first install a special casing. After shrinkage, cracks will appear in the walls of the bathhouse, which will need to be carefully caulked.

Window openings

Okosyachka

How to install a window in a log house

Installation of window frames

Foam block baths do not require such a long waiting period. However, they must stand for some time, since even concrete can slightly deform and decrease in size over time.

There will be a bathhouse with an attic throughout for long years bring you joy if it is built using modern materials and in accordance with strict adherence to technology.

Video - Log bathhouse 4x5 m

Bathhouse 5 by 6 with attic: design features

The bathhouse is a privilege of private land holdings, which, unfortunately, do not always have a large area. During construction, the bathhouse may turn out to be too compact due to lack of space, or you will have to abandon additional extensions that are used as places to relax after the steam room.

In order not to clutter the site with buildings, you can resort to a non-standard solution - combining a bathhouse with an attic.

Ideally, the presence of an attic should be implied from the very beginning and be included in the building project being drawn up, and a single average instruction for its construction will not be very appropriate, since its contents will depend entirely on the final result. However, there are several main points that you should pay attention to when building a bathhouse with an attic, which must be taken into account.

This article will describe all the most important points construction, which should be taken into account when including an attic in a bathhouse project. It will be especially useful for those who carry out this process with their own hands, as it will help you avoid mistakes during construction, which in the future can lead to various unpleasant consequences.

A 5x6 bathhouse with an attic, which has the required area and is not too bulky, is considered optimal for construction. A smaller perimeter will not allow placing necessary premises inside the building, and a larger one will not always be appropriate.

However, this opinion is not unambiguous - the final decision depends entirely on your own preferences. First of all, we will consider several of the most optimal projects, among which we will consider both the layout of a 6x5 bathhouse with an attic and other possible options.

Once you have decided on the project, you can begin to implement it. Below we will look at the basic requirements for the construction process that should be followed to achieve the required level of comfort, durability and safety.

Note!
This article will not touch upon all stages of construction, since most of them are carried out in accordance with generally accepted construction standards - we will only consider the changes that need to be made to the design due to the presence of an attic.

Basic moments

Foundation

First of all, you need to make sure that the foundation for the future building will correspond necessary requirements, since the attic is not an ordinary non-residential attic, which requires a minimum of building material. So that you can rest comfortably in it, you need to build a solid floor.

Also, if you plan to use the attic all year round, you should take care of insulating the walls around its perimeter, which together will lead to a significant increase in the weight of the structure.

Dimensions. The strength potential of a foundation largely depends on its size, which should. The minimum width of the foundation for a building with several floors is 50 - 70 cm and a height of at least 1 m. Only in this case will the foundation be able to withstand the additional load in the form of an attic;
Structure. The concrete frame must have a reinforced structure and be located on a pre-filled area of sand or gravel. This will ensure the reliability and seismic resistance of the future structure;
To reduce pressure on the ground, it is also permissible to use a reinforced concrete pad, which will evenly distribute the weight of the building;

These recommendations should be followed not only when building a bathhouse from scratch - if you are going to attach an attic to an existing building, you should pay attention to this factor first.

If the foundation is narrow, shallow and there is a suspicion that there is no metal frame, adding an attic is categorically undesirable, as this can lead to deformation and destruction of the structure.

Walls

To spend time in the attic all year round, you need to take care of the heat from the soundproofing of the walls of the second floor. Since the room will be heated (even if only heated floors are used for heating), it is impossible to do without insulation for the walls of the bathhouse, otherwise there will be no point in heating. In the summer, the lack of thermal insulation will cause strong heating of the room

Roof

For a regular attic space, it is customary to use a regular gable roof, however, to form an attic such a design would not be very appropriate, since it leaves a very small amount of usable space.

The optimal design for a residential attic would be a “broken” roof, which is also called a mansard roof. Despite the fact that its price will be an order of magnitude higher than an ordinary gable roof, there is much more usable space under it. (see also the article How to make a roof for a bathhouse: instructions)

Floor

The floor in the attic must be massive and strong in order to withstand the weight of furniture, a billiard table, internal partitions and other furnishings - the use of massive joists and reliable material to form the floor is mandatory.

Bottom line

Proper design and taking into account the specifics of the future building will allow you to create a reliable and comfortable sauna with an attic, despite the exotic layout. (see also the article Projects for saunas made of rounded logs: how to build it yourself) You can study this information in more detail by watching the video in this article.