2-level ceiling made of plasterboard. Do-it-yourself two-level plasterboard ceilings - installation and installation instructions. Frame of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

October 22, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

At the moment, it is very fashionable and convenient to make two-level ceilings from plasterboard and at the same time install built-in lamps there for main or auxiliary lighting. As practice shows, such structures are extremely convenient and beautiful, and, in addition, based on the total repair costs, they are relatively inexpensive. I will tell you now how you can do this yourself, without resorting to the help of hired craftsmen, and the video in this article will consolidate your knowledge.

Two-tier ceiling

Now I want to give a list - it will be like instructions on the availability of a tool:

• first of all, you will need a metric tape measure and a pencil for marking, without which it is impossible to do in any case;
• in addition, you cannot do without a long construction rule;
• you will also need 2 levels - a water or laser level, as well as a long construction level;
• perforator;
• a screwdriver or drill with a PH-2 attachment and a drywall attachment (this is the same PH-2, only with a lampshade);
• a construction knife and a regular wood saw for cutting plasterboard;
• plane for grinding edges;
• construction corner;
• nylon threads;
• chokeline (painting cord);
• crown cutters for plasterboard for installation of recessed lamps;
• if you want to putty yourself, then a set of spatulas, a mixer and a rubberized bucket for preparing the mixture (two-tier plasterboard ceilings also need putty ) .

Materials

Table of types of profiles for drywall

First, let’s figure out exactly what profiles you will need so as not to buy everything as unnecessary, especially since the total price will be decent:

• if the height of the room is no more than 250 cm, then you will get two-tier ceilings with a minimum difference, that is, the width of the profile;
• which means you will need CD and UD, as well as CW 50/50 mm and UW 50/40 mm (see table). Thus, the minimum height of the room will be about 240 cm, and the maximum - 245 cm;
• if the room is high, then you will need the same CD and UD for the upper tier, but for the lower plane you can freely use even 100 mm profiles;
• but, if there is a need to save materials, then you can only get by with CD and UD;
• Metal and plastic corners are used to stiffen the corners;

• in the two photos above you see two types of suspensions and, as a rule, the device two-level ceiling needs only one of them - tape;
• wire suspensions with traction are needed only when there is a need to lower the ceilings - in old houses they can reach 4-4.5 m;

• to join the profiles together, as well as to fix them to the hangers, special small self-tapping screws are used (they are also called “fleas” or “fleas”);
• their length is 9-11 mm, the tip is conical or cutting, but I recommend choosing a cone - this way you will lose less screws during use;

Recommendation. When purchasing fleas, it is advisable to check the quality of the crosspiece so that they do not fly off the screwdriver while screwing. To do this, place a screw on the attachment and lower it slightly below horizontal - if it holds, then it is a good batch. In some cases, they come off the nozzle even before it assumes a horizontal position - this is defective material.

• for fastening UD and UW profiles to the perimeter wall, as well as for fixing suspensions to the ceiling, dowels 6x40 or 6x50 mm and self-tapping screws 70-75 mm long are used. But I don't recommend two level ceiling use impact dowels from plasterboard - this is too weak a fastening;

• sheets of plasterboard are attached to the frame with metal screws 25 mm long;

• finally, the most main element, which is needed for a two-level ceiling in in this case, this is ceiling plasterboard. The sheet thickness can be 6.5 mm (China) or 8 mm.

Stage one - measurements and markings

It all starts with marking with a water or laser level - for this we select two heights - one for the top and the second for the bottom tier. Just don’t forget that the ceiling cavity in the lowest place must be at least 30 mm, otherwise you simply won’t have a CD on the sheathing - it will rest. Below this point, install the second one, and the distance between them will be the difference in the difference in tiers.

Now, from these two points, transfer the marks to each corner using the same level, just try to do it as accurately as possible. After transferring the points to all corners (they need to be placed on each side of the break for greater accuracy), connect the marks with a chockline. For such work you need at least two people.

In the same way, you need to mark the ceiling so that the lines pass along it every 50 cm, but there is one nuance here - these are the corners of the room. You need to choose the most flat wall, and having found an acute angle, measure 50 cm from it - then such markings are carried out along the wall along the entire ceiling.

Using a construction corner, you draw out the segments with your own hands in the direction of the opposite wall and then, focusing on them, beat off the control lines with a chokeline towards the opposite wall.

This is important, because on the upper level you can not install the plasterboard around the perimeter completely, and this is not necessary to do, since it will be overlapped by the lower tier. And so, just for the lower level, these estimates are needed - you will have 5 profiles across the sheet, and when at one end, where it is 50 cm, it will reach the wall at an angle, and at the other it will rest, because there is 47 cm , then it is simply trimmed. I want to say that there are almost never perfectly even corners (90°) in apartments, so don’t forget about this measure.

Stage two - frame

Now we begin to make the frame of a two-level ceiling and, first of all, we will screw the UD along the upper perimeter in increments of no more than 30 cm - some manufacturers make profiles with ready-made holes, while others do not. Therefore, if there are no such holes, you can make them with a hammer drill when drilling the wall for dowels - right through the profile.

Since the dowel is 6 mm, the drill will be the same diameter, but the head of the seventieth self-tapping screw is 2 mm larger, therefore, you can easily press the profile with it.

When you're done with the UD, you can screw on the hangers, just try to make sure that the reference line cuts the hanger exactly in the middle. When you screw it on, do it not behind the ears, but from the inside of the “Pashka” (hangers for the sheathing as in the photo above), since when pulled back it will sag under the weight, even when the ceiling is being installed.

Keep the distance between hangers in a row no more than 50-60 cm, as they will be subject to additional load.

Now you need to place the CD profiles in their places, that is, insert them into the UD under the hangers, but only insert them, not screw them. You measure the distance between the walls, and make the profile 5 mm smaller - it will be easier to insert it there so as not to bend it, just take measurements along each line so as not to make a mistake if the wall is uneven.

Now you need to pull the thread under the sheathing, but the profiles will interfere with this - raise each of them a little higher than the level - to do this, use the ears of the middle suspensions, bending them under the CD.

Note. Stretch the thread like this: screw the “fleas” into the bottom flange of the UD so that they turn out across the direction of the CD, wind the nylon thread tautly around them and clamp.

When the thread is tensioned, you have a ready-made reference point, and you can do without a level, that is, the CD is held at two edges, and you will only adjust them in the middle, along the thread. You can start from anywhere, even from the edge, even from the middle, the main thing is that the thread is lower under each profile by about 0.5 mm. It is better to screw two “fleas” into each ear, so the ceiling will be less booming due to the absence of a small backlash.

Now you should think about the wiring and other communications that may be hidden in the bosom. Calculate where the lamps will be located, make (draw) a plan and make the wiring with taps, just, of course, do not power it until you have completed the entire installation. If the wires are not double insulated, lay them in a tubular corrugation and secure them to the rough ceiling - for this you can use the same hangers, securing them between the rows.

Stage three - installation of gypsum boards

When the frame is ready, you can begin installing the gypsum board, but given that we have a two-tier ceiling made of plasterboard, we can roughly estimate where the second tier will go and not install the first level gypsum board on that plane - this is economical. Now we simply sew the sheets to the frame with twenty-fifth self-tapping screws at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other.

Just in order to correctly apply the sheets (so that there are no gaps), it is advisable to work with three people or at least two people - only sufficiently experienced drywallers work alone.

Another very important point, as a reminder (I already talked about this above) - to fix the gypsum board, be sure to use an attachment, not the usual PH-2, but with a lampshade, as in the photo above. It will not allow the screw head to push through the cardboard and will be recessed by 0.5-1 mm according to SNiP.

Now, according to your existing plan, make holes for the recessed lamps and pull out the bends. This is quite simple to do - if your hand doesn’t fit, then take it and make a hook from aluminum wire.

Stage four - second tier

Now everything is much simpler - the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling continues in the same way as it began. That is, you draw the edges of the figure that you planned for the second tier, and screw the hangers along the top-level CD (here you can use both 50 mm and 70 mm self-tapping screws).

And here is another option for the second tier - wavy figures are located on both sides of the ceiling. There are a lot of such examples, and everything, for the most part, depends on your personal imagination, the size of the room and its purpose. Please note that a wider CW and UW profile is involved here - as I said above, you will have to determine the width yourself.

The top image shows very well the principle of bending a galvanized profile, and 2-level ceilings almost never do without it. The shelves are cut at the same distance (it depends on the steepness of the bend), and you can safely bend it. But if there is inner side, then at the site of the cuts you need to remove the triangular elements - this way the petals will not overlap each other.

After you assemble the frame, it is best for you to cover the vertical plane with a sheet and cut off the excess with a hacksaw only after screwing it in - this will be much more accurate. After this, make holes for the lamps and remove the wiring outlets. And then it will be possible to move on to vertical plane, which most likely has bends.

Pay attention to the top photo - in this case, I want to offer you the most convenient way bending plasterboard sheets. Again, the size of the notches will depend on the steepness of the bend, but as an example I can say that for a 1m circle, they are made at a distance of 50 mm. And one more very important point - cuts are made only on the convex side, and each of the fragments is screwed.

Note. I will not tell you how to putty a plasterboard ceiling for two reasons: firstly, this is a topic for a whole article, and secondly, I have already talked about this on my page.

Conclusion

If you decide to make a two-level ceiling from plasterboard yourself, but have never seriously engaged in the installation of gypsum boards, then I do not advise you to come up with overly complex designs. In most cases, simplicity borders on genius! Well, if you have something to say, I invite you to leave a comment.

October 22, 2016

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No one is surprised by the presence of a suspended ceiling in a room. You can hide wires from lighting in it. Next, we will show you how to make a suspended two-level ceiling with your own hands.

Advantages of a suspended ceiling

One of its advantages is that in order to do it, you do not need to delete old plaster from the bottom surface of the ceiling. It is enough to remove fragile fragments that will prevent reliable fastening of the frame, the rest will be hidden. By the way, a suspended two-level ceiling will hide electrical cables and ventilation ducts, which are convenient to run just under the ceiling.

Attention! Do not place gas pipes in the space under the ceiling. Installing a suspended ceiling also provides benefits in improving heat and sound insulation. Between the frame elements you can make insulation from mineral wool. It suppresses noise penetrating through a two-level ceiling and reduces the amount of heat escaping from the room.

Installation of a suspended two-level plasterboard ceiling

Installing a rectangular suspended ceiling with your own hands is not difficult. More difficult task, is to make a circle-shaped depression in it. In our case, part of the two-level ceiling will be located above kitchen area where it will be exposed to steam, so we chose green boards with increased resistance to moisture.

Step-by-step instruction

1. First, you need to draw lines marking the low level of the support structure.

3. Determine the internal and external contour of the proposed circle.

4. The walls of the guide intended for installation inside the circle must be cut so that it can bend.

After attaching the guide to the floor surface with dowels, the base of the wheel is formed.

5. We measure the height of the suspension from the UD wall profiles.

6. You need to cut strips of the required width from the plasterboard, and then wet them with water and bend them.

Attach the strips with screws to the profile. At this stage of work, you need to install wires to connect fluorescent lamps.

7. A perforated profile should be attached to the bottom edge of the plasterboard strip.

8. Next, we install CD profiles around the perimeter for the lower part of the two-level ceiling. To do this, we attach a load-bearing CD profile, laid on top of the UD wall profile every 1 meter. Next, every 50 cm (for a sheet 2500 cm long) we install a CD profile, which is inserted into the UD profile perpendicular to the supporting CD profile.

9. In places where it is necessary to lengthen the profiles, we use longitudinal connectors.

10. After setting up the frame, we connect the CD profiles together using two-level crabs. Then we attach the suspensions to the ceiling using 6 mm anchor wedges.

11. Plasterboard boards are screwed parallel to the load-bearing profiles - this design provides higher rigidity.

12. The inner circle of the second level is made with a slightly smaller diameter in order to place fluorescent lamps in it. To do this, plasterboard sheets are screwed with a margin, to make it easier to draw the outline of the circle, you should temporarily attach the profile in the center and use a rope or another profile to draw a line.

13. Irregularities along the edges that appeared after cutting out the circle (with a drywall file) must be sanded with a drywall plane.

14. To prevent the lamps from being visible, we make a cover of plasterboard along the edge of the hole. To attach the lid, another perforated profile must be secured inside the circle.

15. After grinding the edges of the slabs, you should install a special perforated radius plastic corner, it is attached using a stapler or thick putty.

16. The edges of the slabs, where there are no special seams, must be cut so that the putty can fill them and not create protrusions on the surface of the two-level ceiling. The cut areas must be treated with a primer to improve the adhesion of the putty.

17. We apply the prepared special putty mixture for sealing seams along all seams and in places where there are screws.

18. To prevent the joints of the slabs from bursting, we bury a reinforcing (sickle) fiberglass mesh in the putty mixture.

19. We also apply joint compound around the hole where the plastic corner is installed. After drying, it may be necessary to apply another layer of putty, as the previous layer may retract or not lie flat.

20. The next day, when the putty has dried, the entire ceiling is sanded.

21. After preliminary painting of the ceiling, we place fluorescent lamps inside the circle and connect them to pre-prepared wires.

22. There will be a table under the circle, so you can still install a regular hanging lamp in the middle of the cavity. Illumination from inside the circle represents original decoration interior

Beautiful, stylish, original... many more adjectives can be chosen while admiring the beautiful two-level plasterboard ceiling. This is precisely the unusual design of these ceilings. The fact is that each ceiling looks different.

And the more imagination you show when developing sketches of the ceiling, the brighter it will characterize you and decorate the hall, bedroom, living room or kitchen.

At first glance, it seems that only a tandem of a designer plus professional builders can create such beauty. But no, to install gypsum board ceilings you don’t need to graduate from art school or have higher education majoring in construction. You don't need a set of special tools. You just need to have an idea of ​​what kind of ceiling you want to make and get. And also get a little creative. The rest is a matter of technique.

Despite the fact that visually all ceilings are different, the final decoration and good design. Some are more concerned about the design, while others are more concerned about the design, although these processes can be connected, complementing each other.

The technology for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling is identical for each type (single-level, multi-level). And to make it easier for a beginner, this article will provide step by step instructions- how to install 2-level plasterboard ceilings. But first, a little theory...

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling - plan

First of all, there are several important points to consider:

• height of the room. A two-level ceiling design will reduce the height of the room. For residents modern apartments V panel house even 5-10 cm is already a significant loss;

Advice.
If yours is perfect flat ceiling, then you can mount the second level of the frame directly on it. This way you will save space.

• distribution of accents. With the help of lamps built into the frame of a plasterboard ceiling, you can zone the space or shift the emphasis to any part of the room.

You can purchase lamps of any power. Plasterboard systems do not impose any restrictions on your choice. Such as, stretch ceiling or plastic, where there is a danger of using powerful lighting devices (can lead to deformation and even fire).

• room humidity. It is not recommended to install such a ceiling in the bathroom, because the sheet may become deformed. Although there is moisture resistant drywall(GKLV), for example, Knauf, with correct installation and organizations high-quality ventilation, may well serve.

Advice.
To protect drywall from moisture, a primer is used in several layers.

• presence of assistants. A person cannot do this work on his own.

• complexity of the design. How more complex design, the more difficult it is to calculate the amount of materials and install them, and accordingly, the longer the work will take.

(single-level, two-level and multi-level)

Tool for installing drywall and profiles

• metal scissors;
• hammer drill or drill;
• painting knife;
• square;
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• building level;
• planer for drywall;
• drywall float;
• narrow and wide spatula;
• gloves and glasses.

Materials for plasterboard ceilings

This selection is needed so that you can calculate and know exactly what to buy, what this or that element looks like, and for what purpose it is used. We hope that thanks to this detailed description you won’t buy too much and save money and nerves.

As a rule, ceiling plasterboard is used. Its thickness is 9.5 mm.

For the second tier, which does not have lamps and sidewalls, you can use arched plasterboard. Its thickness is 6 mm.

Designed for splicing two CD profiles.

The profile is attached to it to the ceiling.

Used when the length of the direct suspension is not enough for installation. That is, the second level of the ceiling is lowered too low.

For connecting CD profiles at different levels.

Advice. When installing, try to reduce the number of extensions of this type of profile.

Designed to connect CD profiles at the same level.

Advice.
Crab can be substituted. How to do this can be seen in the photo.

Its purpose is to connect the CD profile perpendicularly and at the same level.

The choice depends on the material from which the walls and ceiling are made.

Self-tapping screw "flea" Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 by 9.5 mm. - “flea”.

Serpyanka tape (self-adhesive)

For gluing seams or interlining for completely covering the ceiling.

(ceiling, spot, halogen or LED).

Advice. The wiring for the lamps is started before the plasterboard work begins.

Diagrams and sketches of two-level plasterboard ceilings

Knowing what you want to see on the ceiling will ultimately make it much easier for you to calculate the material and work.

Before making ceiling drawings, familiarize yourself with what types of two-level plasterboard ceilings exist.

Plasterboard ceiling with lighting - installation methods

The first method is to install a second level without installing the first. Used if you have an ideal ceiling surface. And the lamp is supposed to be placed in the frame.

The approach is the same. But the lamps are also mounted on the side of the frame.

Installation of two frames. The lamps are mounted in the second of them.

The installation approach is the same. But the lamps are also located around the perimeter of the second tier.

Similar approach. But for side lamps, instead of a frame, a polypropylene profile is provided, which is glued to the second-level frame using putty.

Using one of the presented basic types of installation, you can easily create sketches of a two-level ceiling that will appeal to all family members.

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling - installation instructions

It should be noted that there is disagreement among professionals about the order in which the tiers should be installed. There are two ways.

• In the first case, work begins with the installation of the first level frame. And then the frame of the second tier is suspended from it. Applicable if the area of ​​the second tier is insignificant, because virtually the entire weight of the second frame falls on the sheets of the first.

• In the second case, the frame of the second tier is assembled first, and the frame of the first is made between its elements. More complex design.

We will talk in more detail about the first option for installing a two-level ceiling. This will give you basic installation information. The second option, more complex, will be described below and illustrated in the photo.

We make a two-level plasterboard ceiling consistently and in accordance with the instructions, then the work will be done efficiently.

The technology for manufacturing 2-level plasterboard ceilings involves performing work in the following order:

1. Preparing the ceiling for plasterboard (preparing workplace).
2. We mark the ceiling for the plasterboard frame.
3. Installation of a frame for drywall - first level.
4. Installing a frame under drywall - second level.
5. Finishing a two-level plasterboard ceiling.

1. Preparing the ceiling for drywall

Finishing the ceiling is not like screwing in a light bulb - you can't do without removing the furniture.

Clear out the room and the approaches to it, this will make installation easier. It is important to prepare the surface itself. Agree, it’s better to do something in the free space than to constantly go around, trim, and wash off any leftovers. All loose plaster should be removed. Some craftsmen leave it, but everything that doesn’t hold up well will sooner or later fall away.

2. Marking the ceiling under the plasterboard frame

To do this you need to take the following steps:

- measure the height of the corners in the room;

Determine the angle with the smallest height.

It will serve as a starting point for marking. After all, we need the structure to be level relative to the horizontal;

- make markings.

On the walls for the profiles we mark a straight line. We place dots on the ceiling for direct hanging. There is no need for extra markup; it will only confuse. For these purposes it is convenient to use laser level or water.

Advice. You can make a water level of the required length yourself using a nylon hose (for example, from a medical dropper) with a diameter of 10-15 mm. and filling it with water.

It may happen that in your room not only the angles are different, but also the length of the opposite sides. In this case, try to level it horizontally first. And then draw a clear pattern on the ceiling and level the structure around the edges. This way you can visually center the ceiling.

3. Installation of the frame for drywall - installation of the first level

3.1. Installation begins with the installation of UD profiles.

They are guides and are mounted on the wall, along the perimeter of the entire structure. Fastening pitch - 600 mm. And also on the ceiling.

The method of connecting the profile on the wall and in the corner is shown in the photo (right and left, respectively).

If you plan to form rounded elements, you need to draw a picture on the wall and attach the UD profile to it. But first, you need to make notches on the profile.

And fasten it along the line drawn on the ceiling.

3.2. We attach a direct suspension to the points placed on the ceiling.

At the same time, we maintain a fastening pitch of 600 mm.

If your ceiling surface is ideal, then you can skip this step. And start right away with the installation of the second level.

3.3. A CD profile is attached to a direct suspension.

The resulting frame will look like the one shown in the diagram and photo.

The use of crabs will give rigidity to the frame.

Advice.

Where the sheet was cut, a chamfer must be provided. To do this, use a knife to cut off part of the material from the sheet of drywall.

This is necessary so that the putty fits better on the seam. And the seam did not come apart over time.

4. Installation of the frame under drywall - installation of the second level

4.1. Marking the frame for drywall.

To do this, we draw lines on the wall for the UD profile, and on the ceiling we draw the future drawing.

Having a diagram on the ceiling will not only simplify the installation process, but will also help you understand what your structure will look like after the work is completed. And, therefore, you will have the opportunity to make the necessary adjustments.

We mount a ceiling frame made of a metal profile (UD profile), fixing it to the wall and ceiling.

We already know how to make a frame of the desired shape (round the profile).

Material prepared for the website www.site

4.3. Lower the frame to the desired length.

To do this you need:

• cut the CD profile to the length to which you want to lower the frame;

• cut out “tongues” on one side of these pieces. To do this, you need to cut off the side parts of the profile. This will make it easier to install them.

• insert the cut pieces into the UD guide profile, which is already fixed to the ceiling. You need to insert it with the flat side.

• secure the pieces with a flea. The pitch between straight sections is 500-600 mm. A larger step will make the structure insufficiently reliable, a smaller step will make it heavier. The step between curved segments is 200-300 mm. This is due to the fact that the curved sheet needs to be fastened more often.

• “put” a UD profile on the hanging pieces and secure them with a “flea”.

As a result, you should end up with a side frame like this.

Then follows:

• cut the CD profile to a length that is equal to the distance from the side of the frame to the UD profile located on the wall;

• secure them with “fleas” on both sides.

You now have a finished metal frame. After which, it should be covered with plasterboard and proceed to finishing work.

Advice. When assembling the frame, look at the drawings. Otherwise, it may happen that the jumper will be placed in the place of the future lamp.

The photo and picture show how to bend drywall for an arch and how the CD profile and sheet of drywall should be prepared.

Their device is very simple; it is important to correctly make notches on the sheet without cutting through the front layer of cardboard.

If it is possible to cut the required size from a whole sheet, the issue is easily resolved. If not, cut out the segments and install them in parts.

It should be noted that in this case the frame must be stiffer. Because each self-tapping screw is screwed into the profile.

The result of your efforts should look something like what is shown in the photo.

5. Plasterboard ceiling finishing

We sew the seams with sickle tape.

Apply a little putty to the tape with a small spatula.

Suspended two-level plasterboard ceilings from the point of view of design and construction have two positive qualities. From the design side, due to two-level ceilings, it is often possible to hide various internal communications that are inappropriate in the interior, but necessary for the project. For example, they hide ventilation ducts or sewer pipes. From point of view interior design, thanks to a two-level ceiling, it is possible to visually either increase the volume of the room, or, conversely, visually zoning a large space.

General design of two-level plasterboard ceilings

By its design, a two-tier plasterboard ceiling consists of a two-level metal frame, which is lined with plasterboard sheets from below. Conventionally, two-level ceilings can be divided into two types: symmetrical and asymmetrical.

• A symmetrical two-tier ceiling is characterized primarily by smooth ribs and shelves made in a straight line.

• Asymmetrical two-level ceiling - consists of two horizontal planes, the transition between which is made by a shelf along a curved line.

What materials are needed for self-installation

• Metal load-bearing ceiling profile (PP) 60x27 mm;
• Ceiling guide profile (PN) 28x27 mm;
• Perforated straight hangers;
• Metal profile connectors – crabs;
• Damper tape 27-30 mm wide;
• Expansion anchors;
• Metal screws for fastening metal profiles and drywall;
• Ceiling plasterboard sheets 9.5 mm thick;
• Self-adhesive fiberglass mesh;
• Gypsum putty.

Do-it-yourself installation of 1 tier of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

An optical level is installed on a tripod in the center of the room, which is adjusted to display a horizontal line in a single projection on all four walls. Self ceiling may be uneven, but having found the lowest point on its plane and retreating 100 mm from it along the wall, they find “zero” - the level of the plane of the first tier of the ceiling. If the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is carried out with an optical level, then after adjusting it and finding the “zero”, the level must be located in its fixed place until the installation of the guide profile on the walls is completed.

Not everyone in the household has optical levels, especially ones that show a single projection of a horizontal line simultaneously on four walls of the room. If there is no level, then the lowest point on the floor slab is found with an aluminum level 200-300 cm long. If there is no such a long level, then do the following: standing in the center of the room, visually determine the lowest section of the floor. In this area, 100 mm are retreated from the ceiling along the wall and a mark is made. After this, using a water level (a transparent hose filled with water), other marks are made from the original mark on all four walls of the room.

At the next stage, the guide profile is glued damper tape. After covering the guide profile with damper tape, it is mounted horizontally to the surface of each wall with expansion anchors. In this case, the lower shelf of the guide profile must be strictly located along the drawn or projection line of the level.

After installing the guide profile, it is necessary to accurately measure the distance between its internal bases. Knowing the exact length, you need to prepare required quantity load-bearing ceiling profiles. Ceiling support profile can be purchased directly from maximum length 400 cm, a longer profile must be ordered, which is not always profitable. Therefore, it is cheaper and easier to splice two load-bearing profiles together. When splicing, one supporting profile is inserted 80-100 cm into another profile, after which they are fixed with metal screws. The total number of supporting profiles of the required length is calculated so that the step between parallel metal profiles is 1200 mm, if the measurement is taken in the middle of the bases of two adjacent parallel profiles.

The first load-bearing ceiling profile is inserted between the shelves of opposite guide profiles, 10-15 cm away from the parallel wall. The second and all subsequent load-bearing profiles are launched between the shelves of guide profiles at a distance of 1200 mm from each other. The measurement is taken in the middle of the base plane.

After temporarily laying out the supporting profile, bend the required number of perforated hangers in the form of the letter “P”. Next, each profile that is not yet fixed is evenly shifted 10 cm to the side, in ceiling slab the ceilings are drilled with a series of holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm in increments of 80 cm, after which perforated hangers begin to be mounted to the ceiling slab. Having mounted a series of suspensions, the supporting profile is placed between their hanging blades, after which the profile is fixed one by one to the blades of the suspensions with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the calculated number of jumpers with a length of 114 cm is prepared. The jumpers are placed transversely between parallel supporting profiles with an interval of 50 cm and are fixed with metal crab-type connectors. The crab is placed on top of each connection point, after which all elements are fixed with self-tapping screws due to the holes provided in the crab blades.

Installation of 2 tiers of a two-level symmetrical plasterboard ceiling

For the second tier, as well as for the first tier, the installation of a frame for a two-level plasterboard ceiling begins by tying the guide profile at the same level to the walls. The depth of the vertical shelf between the two ceiling levels directly depends on how far below the first tier the guide profile is mounted on the wall.

At the next stage, blanks are made from the supporting profile with a length equal to the width of the second level of the ceiling. The number of workpieces is calculated so that the step between them is 60 cm. One end of the workpiece is inserted into the lower guide profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. The workpiece itself is leveled and, retreating 20 cm from its second end, the workpiece is fixed to the profile of 1 tier with vertical plumbs.

A second piece of similar length and in the same way, level, is fixed in the opposite corner of the room. After this, a nylon thread is stretched between the workpieces, following which all the supporting short profiles of the second tier are attached. It must be said that if the depth of the shelf between the 1st and 2nd tier is more than 20 cm, then the horizontal supporting profile from the second tier is attached to the profile from the first tier not with plumb lines, but with homemade racks. Such racks are made from trimming the supporting profile. When pruning, it is necessary to cut out the rear base to a depth of 20 mm on both sides.

As mentioned above, the ends of the profile of the 2nd tier by 20 cm were left free. Here, along all these free ends, 1 continuous guide profile is fixed. And from this profile, in increments of 50-60 cm, homemade vertical racks are also mounted to the profile of 1 tier.

How to make a two-level asymmetrical plasterboard ceiling

After mounting 1 tier of the frame and under it on load-bearing walls guide profile, a curve is immediately made from the whole guide profile. The easiest way to create a curved profile is on a flat surface of the screed. On the screed, the future trajectory of the curve is drawn with crayons, after which, using a small grinder, cuts are made along the entire length of the guide profile in increments of 5-10 cm to the inner base. The profile with cuts is laid on the screed and it is bent, guided by the drawn line.

Next, the curved profile is temporarily fixed at the place of its installation and every 40-50 cm measurements are taken from its internal base to the base of a flat guide profile mounted on the wall. After this, a set of short blanks from the supporting profile is cut. The blanks are placed between a curved and straight supporting profile and are fixed with self-tapping screws. Further assembly of the asymmetrical frame comes down to strengthening the connection of the second tier to the first tier.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Sheathing a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands begins with the 1st tier. Drywall sheets are cut strictly to size and mounted to the supporting profile with self-tapping screws every 30-40 cm. When tightening the screws, their flat caps are slightly recessed into the thickness of the gypsum board sheet. After the surface of the first tier is completely covered, the second tier is covered. At the very end, the vertical shelf between the tiers is sheathed with gypsum board. If the shelf has an even trajectory, then it is covered with the same ceiling plasterboard that was used to cover both tiers. However, if the ceiling is asymmetrical and the shelf has a curved trajectory, then flexible plasterboard 6 mm thick is used to cover it.

In order to cut drywall exactly in a straight line, it is laid on a flat surface of the screed and a cutting line is marked on it. Next, an aluminum rule is laid along the line on the gypsum board sheet and the rules are passed along the edge with slight pressure stationery knife so that the cardboard is completely cut through and the gypsum structure is scratched shallowly. After this, the sawn sheet is placed on the edge wooden block and, applying sharp pressure, the drywall is broken exactly along the line. If it is necessary to cut drywall along a curved radius line, then cutting is done with a small angle grinder with a stone disc.

Lighting for two-level plasterboard ceilings

Most often, two-level plasterboard ceilings in city apartments are made with lighting spotlights. This is due not only fashion trend in interior design, but also has a practical side. When installing a two-tier ceiling overall height in the room is significantly reduced and, in fact, on such a ceiling a hanging chandelier will no longer be inappropriate. To install recessed spotlights, it is necessary to lay and secure the electrical cables in a corrugated tube before covering the frame with plasterboard. A cable is supplied to each lamp with a margin of 30-40 cm.

After laying the cable, the entire frame is completely sheathed with plasterboard, while the location of the built-in lamps is marked on the gypsum board plane. Next, using either a large-diameter crown or a ballerina drill to drill holes in the porcelain stoneware, cut out the sheets of drywall round holes. The cable is pulled out through such a hole and a spotlight is connected to it. Next, two spring clamps on the lamp are pulled back, the lamp together with the wire is inserted into the hole and the activated springs fix the lamp on the gypsum board plane.

If initially, according to the project, it was intended to be used as lighting hanging chandelier, then the fastening for it must be mounted before the sheathing metal frame drywall. To do this, to the surface concrete slab ceilings are secured with metal hangers wooden board with dimensions of approximately 20x20 cm, thickness more than 30 mm. Next, the frame is sheathed with plasterboard, and after sheathing, a 50 mm hole is drilled in the plasterboard, through which a 200 mm self-tapping screw is screwed into the wooden board. The cable for connecting the chandelier is pulled through the same holes. After this, using two pliers, the protruding self-tapping screw is bent in the form of a hook, on which the connected chandelier will be hung in the future, and the hook itself is hidden by the decorative overlay of the chandelier.

03.12.2016

2-level plasterboard ceilings will allow you to simultaneously solve several problems: disguise utility lines located under the base ceiling base, hide flaws and shortcomings draft ceiling, divide the room into functional areas, install original lighting. The main disadvantage of such structures is that suspended ceilings take away the height of the room. However, when correct design, decorative composition will match the interior.

2-level plasterboard ceilings for the hall photo

Preparing for work

Before installing a 2-level plasterboard ceiling, you need to consider the following nuances:

• room height. A two-level system will reduce the spatial dimensions of the room. If the distance from floor to ceiling is only 2.5 meters, you will have to look for another finishing method;
• accents. Lighting devices installed in the lower level of the structure will help visually divide the room into separate zones. Perimeter lighting of the box will visually raise the ceiling;
• humidity. It is better to avoid using plasterboard in finishing bathroom ceilings. But, if you decide to install suspension system from gypsum plasterboard, choose a material marked moisture resistant.

The construction of a two-level plasterboard ceiling requires drawing up a detailed design drawing on a sheet of paper. Without a drawing there is no point in starting work. There is a possibility of getting not only ceilings that do not meet expectations, but, even worse, a crooked structure.

Sketches of plasterboard ceilings

Once the drawing is ready, make several copies of the drawing. It is possible that you will make adjustments as the work progresses, and the final version of the two-level ceiling project will differ from the initial one. To draw up a drawing, use a compass, ruler, or protractor to accurately reproduce a small copy of the design. Based on the plan, it will be possible to quickly apply markings to the ceiling, exactly repeating the geometry of the figures that are supposed to be made.

The plan must indicate:

• center of the room;
• sizes of decorative boxes;
• radii of circles, their location in relation to the designated geometric center of the ceiling;
• if a complex curve is used in finishing, the line is built based on the combination of circular arcs. At the same time, the center and radius of each circle are also indicated in the drawing;
• The position points of the built-in lighting devices are marked, and the diameters of the holes that will need to be made in the drywall for the lamps are indicated.

When work with the plan is completed, draw a layout diagram engineering communications in the space between the decorative ceiling and the base base.

These include:

1. distribution box locations;
2. types of cables, wire cross-section;
3. options for connecting devices;
4. cable routes;
5. air ducts;
6. hoods;
7. ventilation grates.

A frame project is drawn up separately decorative ceiling, where the location lines of load-bearing and ceiling profiles, attachment points for hangers, “crabs”, and position relative to the frame of gypsum plasterboard sheets are marked. And finally, materials and components are calculated.

Frame project for a two-level plasterboard ceiling

When purchasing drywall and frame components, increase all received figures by 3-5%. It's connected with possible errors at the calculation stage, making changes to the ceiling composition during the course of work, damage to parts during installation.

Drywall needs to be purchased 7-10 days before sheathing. The sheets are placed horizontally in the room where they will be installed. suspended ceiling so that the material adapts to climatic conditions and takes the correct shape.

Required Tools

To install a two-tier plasterboard ceiling, you will need to prepare the following tools:

• hammer drill for drilling holes in concrete floors;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• building level;
• tape measure and pencil or marker for transferring the drawing to the base base of the ceiling and the first tier of the structure;
• metal scissors for cutting profiles;
• upholstery cord;
• a stationery knife with a sharp blade for cutting plasterboard;
• hammer and pliers.

To finish the structure you will need sickle tape, primer, putty, fine-grained sandpaper, a construction float, and spatulas (wide and narrow).

Materials

Any tiered ceilings begin with the assembly of a frame base from a galvanized metal profile. A wooden frame is also covered with plasterboard, but then the finishing will cost more, because wood is more expensive than metal. But according to operational indicators and strength metal profiles better. Their additional advantages are fire resistance, corrosion resistance, and long service life.

Profile frame

To build the frame of the decorative ceiling and cover the structure you will need:

• two types of profiles: guide (UD) and (CD);
• special connectors for extending the CD profile;
• direct hangers or brackets are used to attach the CD profile to the ceiling;
• spring hangers are used in cases where the length of the direct hanger is insufficient. For example, the second level of the decorative structure is planned to be lowered very low;
• two-level connectors. Designed for joining CD profiles located on different tiers of the structure;
• “crabs” for joining ceiling profiles at the same frame level;
• corner connectors. They are used to connect CD profiles at the corners of the room. Connectors are also used for joining ceiling profiles at the same level;
• dowel screws, anchor bolts, self-tapping screws, metal screws;
• lamps, if plasterboard ceilings with lighting will be installed;
• GKL sheets. Most often, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are used for cladding. If an arch or a complex curved structure is to be installed, choose gypsum board with a thickness of 6.5 mm. It is also used for covering the second tier. It is not recommended to purchase 12 mm thick material for covering the frame under the ceiling due to its too heavy weight.

Photo of a two-level gypsum board ceiling with lighting

There are two ways in which you can make a two-level plasterboard ceiling:

• the first, when the 2nd level of the decorative ceiling is installed without installing the 1st. This installation method suspended structure Can only be used on a level base. The lamps are placed in the frame or on the side of the frame;
• the second, when both the first and second tiers are made of plasterboard. This installation method is used in rooms with uneven ceilings, or in the presence of finishing that cannot be properly leveled with putty, or it is necessary to disguise communications located under the rough ceiling.

Usually, the first level is installed first, and the frame elements for the 2nd level are already attached to it. Or, first, a box is installed, to which a guide profile is then attached to finish the main area of ​​the ceiling surface. The location of the lamps can be any.

They decide which option for installing a decorative 2-level ceiling to choose based on the spatial dimensions of the room, the presence or absence of utilities, and the quality of finishing of the base base.

DIY installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

You can install a two-level gypsum board structure yourself if you follow the instructions and follow the installation technology.

Preparing the ceiling for finishing

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove all furniture, equipment, houseplants. Anything that cannot be taken out is moved to the center of the room and covered. plastic film to protect against dust and dirt. Removed from the rough ceiling old finishing, deep cracks and cracks are sealed with putty or a mixture based on sand and cement, and the surface is primed.

Markings are applied on the walls for the first level of the decorative structure using a square, laser and profile levels.

Marking using a meter and level

First, find the bottom corner in the room and, starting from it, draw an even horizontal line around the perimeter. Points are placed on the ceiling at the places where direct hangers are attached, then parallel lines are drawn along which the ceiling profiles will be mounted. Please note that the profiles must be located at the joints of the plasterboard sheets.

If the ceilings in the room are uneven, you first need to level the markings horizontally, and then proceed according to the plan. The distance between the hangers is 60 cm, between the profiles – 40 cm. Choose the direction of the profiles yourself. Often professional builders It is advised to mount profiles towards the window openings, citing the fact that the seams on the plasterboard ceiling will be less noticeable.

How to make from plasterboard, do-it-yourself installation.

Frame installation

UD guide profiles (28*27) are attached along a horizontal line to the walls using dowel-nails every 30-40 cm. To do this, sealing tape is glued to the back side of the guide, the plank is applied to the wall, and fixed with dowel-nails. At the corners, the profiles are inserted into each other and fastened with self-tapping screws.

The next step is to attach the hangers. If ready-made elements If you don’t have them, make them yourself from a PP 60*27 ceiling profile. To do this, measure the distance from base ceiling to the bottom edge of the UD profile, cut pieces from the ceiling profile 1 cm less than the measured distance. From the end of the profile, cut off the side flanges by 2.5 cm, and make a tongue from the back. Screw the hangers to the ceiling profile using self-tapping screws, and only then fix the PP 60*27 to them. Or immediately install the hangers to the rough ceiling surface. Then attach the CD profile to the hangers, the edges of which fit into the guides. Extension of the ceiling profile is done using connectors.

If you plan to install a round structure on the ceiling, first draw a sketch. And then, according to the drawing, the guide profile is bent and fixed to the ceiling. To bend the bar, with reverse side notches are made on it. The gap between adjacent notches is determined by the curvature of the line. The steeper the bend, the smaller the distance left between the cuts.

After this, a nylon thread is pulled under the structure, which is used to regulate the evenness of the frame for the first level. Leveling is carried out using adjustable hangers. The distance from the ceiling to the bottom edge of the profile must be the same in all areas of the structure. The ceiling and guide profiles are fastened together with self-tapping screws.

Sheathing with plasterboard

The photo shows the frame and the first row of gypsum boards installed

First, the frame is sheathed with whole sheets of material. The remaining space is measured, the drywall is cut to required sizes. The ceiling profile strip should be located at the junction of adjacent gypsum board sheets. The pitch between the screws is 25-30 cm. The screws are screwed into the drywall so that the head of the screw enters the sheet 3-5 mm. Subsequently, these recesses will be filled with putty.

In those places where the sheet was cut, a chamfer is made, cutting off part of the material from the gypsum board sheet. This is necessary in order to ensure better adhesion of the putty mixture.

Surface marking

Installation of the second level when installing 2-level plasterboard ceilings also begins with markings. It is carried out as follows:

• From the first level on the wall, the height of the second tier is set aside and a dot is marked;
• a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the room from this point;
• outline the contours of the second level.

Usually the second level is made in the form of a geometric figure or a curved line. To make marking easier, you can pre-make a template. All that remains is to trace the outline of the pattern on the ceiling.

Installation of frame base

The frame is mounted from the UD guide profile along the outlined lines. For bending, cuts are made on the slats.

Now you need to lower the frame to the required length. For this:

• the CD profile is cut to the required length;
• “tongues” are cut out from one side of the scraps, cutting off the side parts of the profile. This will make installation work easier;
• the segments are inserted into the UD profile fixed to the ceiling and walls with the flat side;
• the pieces are fixed with “bugs” (special self-tapping screws for installing drywall). On straight sections of the structure, the distance between the screws is 50-60 cm; on curved sections, the step is reduced, fixing sections of the profile every 20-30 cm;
• Now a guide profile is attached to the bottom of the hanging sections using “bugs”.

To make a frame for the remaining part of the structure, a ceiling profile is cut to the required length, one edge of it is inserted into a guide mounted to the wall, the other is pressed against the side of the frame. Fasten the bar with self-tapping screws on both sides.

The resulting frame is covered with plasterboard.

On a note! At all stages of assembling the frame, be guided by the drawings so that the lintels of the ceiling base do not fall into the installation site of the lighting device.

Before you begin installing the arch, calculate the design parameters and mark the place from which it will begin. Also decide what the radius of curvature will be.

Interroom arch with wiring

The arch is attached to a metal frame base made from a rack profile cut with metal scissors.

The procedure for installing the arch is as follows:

• make the front side of the structure;
• install the end parts of the decorative element;
• the workpiece is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Curvilinear areas on the ceiling

Since arches and other curved structures are represented by curved surfaces, the thinnest plasterboard (6.5 mm) is used for covering them. However, in terms of price, this type of gypsum board will be more expensive, so craftsmen, in order to save on finishing, use the following methods with which they can bend the material:

• dry option, when the edge of the sheet is fixed to the frame and bent with force until it accepts the required form. Then the sheet is screwed onto the other side of the frame base using self-tapping screws;
• using cuts on the side of the sheet that will be convex on the finished arch. The cuts are made at equal intervals, the distance between them is determined by the required bending radius. The smaller the radius of curvature, the smaller the distance left between the cuts. A hacksaw or milling cutter is used to make cuts. Subsequently, the cracks are sealed with putty;
• the wet method is used to ensure a soft bend of the arched model. First, using a needle roller, process the side of the sheet that will be concave. Then this surface is generously moistened with water, the other side remains completely dry. The sheet is bent to the required curvature and fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws. After 24 hours the material is ready for finishing.

Cutting off a piece of drywall sheet

To ensure that working with plasterboard does not take much time, use the following recommendations:

• cut the material with a sharp construction knife;
• It is convenient to cut large sheets if they are leaning against a wall with a slight slope. It is more convenient to cut small canvases (up to 60 cm wide) on a flat horizontal surface;
• Make cuts only on the front side of the material;
• if the area of ​​the room being finished is large, purchase sheets measuring 3.6 m; in compact rooms, use plasterboard 2.5 m;
• Before cutting a piece, carefully measure the dimensions of the element so as not to “grab off” too much.

Plasterboard ceiling before finishing

After the installation of the two-level ceiling is completed, the result of the work is checked. If everything is in order, proceed to finishing the finished structure. Dry putty mixtures are used to putty and level the decorative ceiling:

• the ceiling is primed with the composition deep penetration, paying close attention to the joints between adjacent sheets and the recesses from self-tapping screws. The primer will improve the adhesive properties of the putty and protect the ceiling from mold;
• Prepare the solution according to the instructions. It is advisable to use a construction mixer for mixing. Then the mass will be homogeneous and without lumps;
• First, the recesses from the screws and seams are sealed with the composition to prevent rust and level the surface. A sickle mesh is applied to the joints, and a layer of putty is applied on top with a small spatula so that the mixture covers only the tape;
• then they putty the entire ceiling using a wide spatula;
• after the first layer of the mixture has dried, the surface is rubbed with fine-grained sandpaper, attached to a construction float;
• the next step is to apply thin layer finishing putty, again left to dry;
• re-sand and level the ceiling surface, prime.

Now the structure is ready for final finishing using any of the selected methods (painting, wallpapering, decorative plaster).

But a plasterboard ceiling requires such careful preparation only before painting. Wallpapers and decorative plaster will mask minor flaws and shallow cracks.

Such designs will help transform the room beyond recognition. For example, by setting levels at different heights and selecting lighting fixtures that suit the interior, you can divide the room into functional zones. Or use a figure on the ceiling to highlight interior items (a bed in the bedroom, a closet, a nightstand, etc.).

Illuminated ceiling

Built-in lighting will create a cozy and romantic atmosphere in the room. The best option will become LED Strip Light. In addition to the fact that soft light will emanate from the device, such lighting will visually lift the ceiling space if you place the tape around the perimeter decorative box from gypsum board.

Drywall is used to create multi-level ceilings in any room:

• in the kitchen they are more often chosen geometric figures. A circle is usually mounted in the center, and rectangular elements are installed at the edges;
• For the bedroom it is preferable to use curved lines. Sleeping area are distinguished using a decorative niche, which acts as the second tier of the structure. For small bedroom A two-level ceiling with a built-in LED strip is well suited;
• hanging in the children's room multi-level ceiling mounted to delimit space. Using levels, a workplace is allocated, play area. Each area of ​​the child’s room should be well lit with devices that match the interior style;
• difficult in the hall plasterboard construction on the ceiling will decorate the interior. Boxes made of square gypsum plasterboard or rectangular shape. You can highlight individual areas with spotlights or LED strip.

During the installation process, it is important to be attentive to all, even seemingly insignificant, nuances. You can install a two-level gypsum board ceiling in a few days, and you will use the structure longer. Therefore, carefully approach the choice of design and design of the future ceiling, and when purchasing materials and components, give preference to proven brands.

Vieo how to make a 2-level ceiling from plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard)