We choose the optimal thickness of the floor screed. Floor screed for laminate Do-it-yourself screed for laminate

With the growing popularity of laminate floors, more and more consumers are faced with the problem of installing them themselves. One of the main requirements is smooth floors, and many people do not know how to make a screed for laminate flooring.

We will tell you about the main features and rules of installation of this event.

Laminate base

Requirements

According to SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings» floor unevenness is allowed (the distance between the floor surface and the two-meter rule) of no more than 2 mm for linoleum and no more than 6 mm for tiles.

There are no standards in relation to laminated floors in the document, however, manufacturers recommend not allowing differences greater than 3 mm per 2 meters.

These are quite rigid frames, and to support them, you will most likely have to level the floor with sand. cement mortar or self-leveling mixture. If the floor is fairly level and the maximum difference does not exceed 4 mm per 2 meters, then you can lay laminate flooring without a screed.

What are the reasons for such demands?

If we look at the structure of laminate panels, the answer will be clear:

After assembly, the panels form one whole monolithic covering, and movement of individual panels relative to the rest of the floor is not allowed;
The solidity of the coating is achieved using locking connections at the ends and side edges of the panel;
The coating is made in such a way that all its elements lie in the same plane, and their other arrangement is not provided for by the design of the lock;
If the floor is uneven, then the panels will tend to repeat this unevenness under the pressure of the weight of people or furniture;
Displacement of the panels relative to each other will lead to the lock breaking or bending, and the end result will be the spreading of the coating and the appearance of cracks between the panels, which will indicate the unsuitability of the laminate and the need for its replacement.

There is an opinion that floor unevenness can be hidden with the help of a substrate, since recently thick enough slabs for installation under laminate have begun to appear. However, we remind you that the manufacturers of all more or less famous brands It is generally recommended to use substrates whose thickness does not exceed 3 millimeters, and such material will not be able to level out significant level differences.

If you nevertheless decide to use thicker linings, this will lead to the fact that you will lose all warranty obligations and will not be able to make claims in case of poor quality goods.

At the same time, even a thick layer of underlay material will not save you from a poor-quality floor surface; problems will simply appear after a while, when all the irregularities appear through this layer.

We’ll immediately answer the question “Is it possible to lay laminate flooring on a screed?” It is possible if the substrate is integrated into the panel structure.

In other cases, the coating necessarily requires the presence of a substrate, since it (although the substrate demonstrates this effect to some extent) is for sound insulation, thermal insulation, waterproofing and load mitigation.

Varieties

There are several ways to level the floor for installation of laminate flooring:

Dry screed using backfill and sheet covering;
Screed using plywood and wooden beacons;
Self-leveling mixtures and self-leveling floors.

Dry screed is used in small spaces, on wooden floors, in rooms where a large load on the floor is unacceptable (attics, attics). This leveling method makes it possible to level out quite significant differences, however, a screed made from loose filler is afraid of moisture and requires careful waterproofing.

If water gets in from above, for example, from neighbors or during a plumbing failure, the floor will most likely become unusable. This imposes serious restrictions on this method, so its popularity remains small. At the same time, the method is quite simple and fast, and the leveling efficiency is achieved quite normally.

Leveling with the help when pouring a cement screed is not possible. For work, beacons made of wooden slats are used, which are leveled in a horizontal plane. The beacons are stuffed with plywood, chipboard or MDF.

The thickness of the plywood must be sufficient so that it does not sag in the spaces between the beacons, and the spaces themselves must correspond to the thickness of the plywood and the size of its sheets.

Self-leveling mixtures and self-leveling floors based on cement and gypsum binders are quite popular and effective method preparation of the base. The main advantage of this method is the minimum thickness of the screed layer, however, with serious unevenness this can become a disadvantage.

Another disadvantage of self-leveling flooring is its price, which is several times higher than the cost of a traditional screed. Otherwise, the method is quite effective, less labor-intensive than in the case of a solution, and the surface quality is higher.

Finally, the most popular and effective method– floor screed with cement-sand mortar. This method allows you to level out any differences in level and unevenness of the floor, and the effectiveness of the screed has been proven by many years of experience in its installation and operation.

This method is considered the most proven and reliable, therefore it is still used most often.

At the same time, the method is relatively labor-intensive; at least two people are needed to work:

one will prepare and serve the solution;
the second is to pour it out and level it.

Installation of sand-cement screed

The step-by-step instructions that we have prepared for you will help you understand how to make a screed for laying laminate flooring with your own hands:

First we dismantle the old flooring. Be careful, it can be multi-layered, so remove everything down to the floor slab. After this, we remove all debris, dirt and dust; it is better to use a construction vacuum cleaner;

We glue damper tape along the perimeter of the walls from below. It may have an adhesive layer, or it can be fixed with double-sided tape;

We lay construction polyethylene film 300 microns thick over the entire floor with an overlap of 5–6 cm on the walls. We make the joints of the strips with an overlap of 30 cm, and glue the joints with plumbing tape;

Using a laser level, we determine the highest point in the room, from which we will mount beacons;
We place the reinforcing road mesh on the floor and raise it 2 cm with the help of pads. We knit the joints with steel wire;

We take a metal profile and cement mortar and big amount cement, you can add putty. Raising the level of the most high point by 50 mm, and at this height we install beacons from the profile at a distance of 50 cm from the wall and 1.2 meters from each other. This distance can be changed according to the rule parameters;

When the beacons have hardened, you can start pouring. We prepare a mixture of M400 cement, sand and water. For one part cement - four parts sand, water until the consistency of a very thick solution, but flowing. Serve the mixture and pour it onto the floor between two beacons, level the surface using the rule along the beacons;

As soon as we finish one strip, we move on to the one across the row. After that we do the one between them. Gradually fill and level the entire room;

When the solution has set (after about five hours), we go through and carefully remove the beacons, and putty their place with the solution using a wide spatula, level with the floor;

We wait until the solution gains strength and dries.

Important!
Regardless of how long it takes for the mortar to dry, you should ensure that the mortar is dry before laying any coating.
To do this, we lay a piece of polyethylene on the floor, meter by meter, and seal the edges with tape.
If in the morning next day There is no perspiration on the film, then the screed has dried.

Conclusion

There are several ways to level the floor for laying laminated flooring. We looked at how to make a laminate screed with your own hands. For those who want to level the floors themselves using a screed, we have selected a video that will certainly help you carry out the work correctly.

Each floor covering is laid on a base that meets specific requirements. As for laminate, the main requirements for the base are rigidity and evenness. Even new concrete slabs do not always meet such requirements, let alone old floors or wooden bases. But thanks to the screed, even the most uneven floor can be prepared for laying laminate flooring. This is the only way you can be sure that the flooring will last a long time.

Requirements for a subfloor under laminate

Before laying laminate flooring, you need to prepare the base. It should be different:

rigidity and evenness (for every two meters, a height difference of no more than 2 mm is allowed);
there should be no holes, holes, potholes on the surface of the base;
small irregularities (up to 2 mm) can be easily eliminated by placing a special backing made of cork or polyethylene foam under the laminated boards;

Important: you cannot use several layers of substrate in the hope of leveling out significant defects in the base.

the optimal thickness of the screed for laminate is 4 cm (for a relatively flat base, it is permissible to use a smaller layer of self-leveling mixtures);
if leveling will be carried out by heat or soundproofing material, the solution layer must be reinforced;
in some cases, the screed is laid on a layer of insulating material placed on the walls. This is necessary to prevent the concrete from absorbing moisture from the base or premature dehydration of the screed on hygroscopic bases, for example, wood.

Why is it so important to level the floor under the laminate? It's all about the locking connection of the laminated boards. This is the most vulnerable place. When laying the product on an uneven base, the locks quickly wear out and break. When laying planks on an uneven base, the following may happen to your flooring:

the boards will wear out quickly;
the ends will begin to stick out;
under load the floor will creak or pop;
joints between separate elements may stick out, causing the floor to become covered with waves;
The locking joints will break and the boards will come apart.

To avoid all these problems, you need a screed under the laminate. It will level the base, give the floor the necessary rigidity, evenly distribute the load, help hide communications and perform the functions of sound and heat insulation.

Choosing a laminate leveling method

To level a concrete or wooden floor, you can use several types of screed:

cement-sand (connected and not connected to the base, floating);
dry;
self-leveling composition;
semi-dry floor screed.

It is better to level a wooden floor floating reinforced layer or do preliminary leveling with plywood, and then pour in a self-leveling compound.

For cement-sand screed, a solution of a grade of at least 75 is used. Sand and cement are mixed in a ratio of 3:1. The composition should have a thick consistency, so it will be stronger. Using this solution, it is better to level a concrete floor with a height difference of 3 to 5 cm. Sometimes, under the laminate on top of the cement layer, it is necessary to make final leveling using a self-leveling composition.

Ready-made self-leveling mixtures can be used to install screeds with a height of 0.5 to 3 cm. To level the floor under the laminate using the ready-made mixture, you simply need to add water to the dry composition in the proportion indicated on the package. There are rough leveling mixtures, on top of which it is necessary to lay a finishing self-leveling mortar, and more expensive universal compounds, which allow you to simultaneously make both a screed and a smooth surface. finishing layer for laying laminate.

If you plan to make a heated floor, then it is better to use a semi-dry screed for leveling. Essentially it's the same cement composition only with less water content. Due to this, the leveling layer is less susceptible to shrinkage and is protected from the formation of cracks and temperature changes.

If the floor structure is unreliable and the unevenness of the base is significant, then it is impossible to make a thick, heavy cement screed. In this case, dry leveling is used. To do this, insulating material is laid on the base, beacons are installed on it and granular backfill is poured. Sheets of plywood, chipboard, OSB or GVL are laid on top and attached to the guide beacons. There is no need to do additional leveling of this floor. It is suitable for laying laminate flooring.

Preparing the base

Before leveling, any foundation must be prepared. To prepare a concrete floor you need to do the following:

First, you should clean the base from debris, dust and loose parts of concrete.
All cracks and crevices are widened with a grinder, cleaned, primed and sealed with mortar.
To perform a bonded screed, the concrete floor must be primed. If you decide to make a floating screed, then you do not need to use a primer.

To prepare a wooden floor for leveling, do the following:

All boards and joists are inspected. Rotten and damaged boards are replaced with new ones. Sometimes the joists need to be replaced or strengthened.
Wooden base elements must be treated with antiseptics.
All cracks on the floor are carefully puttied.
The surface is primed with a moisture-resistant compound in two layers.
Insulating material (polyethylene film) is laid and placed on the walls.

Cement-sand screed for laminate

To level a concrete floor under a laminate using cement screed, the work is performed in the following sequence:

After preparing the base and breaking down the finished floor level, beacons are installed on the walls of the room. They are leveled. Drywall profiles, slats, boards or pipes can be used as beacons. The pitch of the beacons from the wall is 30 cm, between each other - a meter or along the length of the rule.

Tip: beacons can be laid on mortar piles or attached to the base with self-tapping screws. The latter option cannot be used when installing screeds over insulating material.

Along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape is attached to the walls, protecting the screed from deformation damage. Its height should be 2 cm greater than the thickness of the screed.
The prepared solution is placed between the beacons so that it slightly exceeds their level. Then the mixture is leveled using the beacon rule (see video).
Every other day, the beacons are removed from the screed, and their recesses are primed and sealed with fresh mortar, and the surface is rubbed down. The semi-dry screed hardens in 3-4 hours.
During the first week, the drying screed must be moistened with water to protect it from drying out. Also, to ensure uniform evaporation of moisture, the surface is covered with plastic film first 4 days.

Video instructions for implementation cement leveling for laying laminate:

Self-leveling screed

By using ready-made compositions you can level a wooden or concrete floor for laying laminated boards. Just keep in mind that the unevenness of the base should not exceed 3 cm. The work is carried out in this order:

After preparing and priming the concrete base, prepare the mixture by adding water to the dry composition according to the proportion indicated on the packaging. The wooden floor is prepared as indicated above and covered with plastic film.
The mixture is poured onto the base and leveled using a needle roller. In principle, beacons are not needed to fill a self-leveling composition, but professionals sometimes perform pouring according to benchmarks (see video).
After 3-4 days you can walk on the screed. Make sure the leveling layer is completely dry before laying the laminate. To do this, place and press a paper napkin to the floor surface for a day. If it remains dry, you can install flooring.

Video on pouring self-leveling mixture:

Dry screed

To level and prepare very uneven floors and bases on dilapidated floors for laminate installation, it is better to use a dry screed. It is done in this order:

Wooden or concrete base cover with plastic film, placing it on the walls of the room. The joints of the film are taped with tape.
Then the beacons are installed. It is better to fix the guides on the mortar piles so as not to damage the insulating material. All beacons are set according to level.
Granular material is poured between the guides and leveled as a rule. You can use expanded clay sand or small crushed stone (see video).
Then sheets of plywood, OSB, gypsum fiber board or chipboard are laid on top. They are attached to the guides using self-tapping screws.
This screed is quite smooth, so finishing leveling is not required. The laminate is laid on a special backing made of cork or polyethylene foam.

When buying an apartment in a new building, every owner will certainly want to renovate it. This is due to the fact that new houses are often put into operation without finishing works. In addition, even if your apartment was sold with finishing, its quality can rarely be called decent, so in such a room you have to redo a lot.

In apartments located in houses old building, floor leveling, a pressing issue for their owners. This is due to the fact that in panel houses built several decades ago, under concrete screed laid as insulation mineral wool or other similar insulation material. And over time, under the influence of loads, the cement-sand screed sagged and cracks formed on it.

IN ordinary apartments furniture is most often located along the walls, so the most trampled place is the center of the room. The subsidence of the screed in this place can reach ten centimeters, which makes life in such an apartment uncomfortable, and the floor itself looks ugly. Therefore, in such apartments, as in many new buildings, you also have to level the floor before you start laying the flooring, be it linoleum, parquet, tiles or the now popular laminate.

If the apartment owner has sufficient knowledge and experience, then you can level the floor for laying laminate yourself in just one day. If you doubt your abilities, then it is better to contact a specialized company that will professionally perform screeding under the laminate. But it often happens that after purchasing an apartment, there is no longer enough money to attract specialists to carry out repairs, so you have to figure out a lot on your own. This article will help you better understand the technology of leveling the floor using a screed for laying laminate flooring.

Floor leveling is the most important part work when laying flooring, especially laminate, and this process begins with the installation of a screed.

The screed can perform several quite important functions for your home:

Level the floor, and you can’t do without it if you want to install flooring and significantly extend its service life.
Make the base of the floor sufficiently rigid.
Evenly distribute the load from walking and furniture onto the layers below.
Disguise communications, pipes, electric wires etc.
Create sound and heat insulation for your floor.

The screed can be performed several times various materials, for example, expanded clay concrete, lightweight concrete, special self-leveling mixture, gypsum mixture, cement and sand mortar.

If there is a need to save on materials, the screed device can be made from several different layers. For example, the base layer can be made from cement-sand mortar, A upper layer made from a self-leveling mixture, which is excellent for laying laminate flooring.

But, before you start installing the screed, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work.

Preparatory work for the screed

Begin preparatory work for installing a screed to free the room from furniture and other objects that will interfere with the process. You must make the room completely empty. The next stage of preparation is getting rid of the baseboards; they need to be torn off. The same must be done with old flooring, tiles, linoleum, etc. To install the screed, you need to clear the base of the floor down to the concrete slab.

Then you need to clean the base of the floor from small debris, greasy stains, old putty, paint and dust, it is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this. After the base has been vacuumed, it must be wiped damp cloth, this way you will get rid of dust much more effectively.

After cleaning the surface, it is necessary to mark the horizon line of the future screed on the walls of the room. This can be done using a water or laser level. Screed level marks should be every two meters, they must be connected by a line using the rule. The thickness of the screed should not be less than three or four centimeters, otherwise it will be too thin and begin to crack.

It is also necessary to check whether the protrusions of the base will be below the horizon of the future screed. To check, you can use a painting cord or fishing line that is stretched from one corner of the room to the other. If the protrusions are small, they must be leveled using a hammer drill.

The next stage of preparing the base is applying a special primer to the surface. deep penetration, for example, brands such as “CERESIT ST-17”, “TM Triora”, “Acryl Grundierung”, “CERESIT MOMENT”, etc. It is these primers that will allow the cement-sand screed to adhere most efficiently to the base. For a room with an area of 16-18 square meters About 10 liters of primer will be needed.

It is necessary to lay bitumen or waterproofing tape along the entire perimeter of the walls; this is necessary to create waterproofing of the floor. When performing this work, it is important to take into account that the tape should protrude 15 centimeters from the level of the finished floor.

Then you need to install beacons. To do this, you need to pull the cords, based on the floor level, which will imitate the height of the final floor. It is necessary to place beacons at the height of these cords, which are fixed with cement-sand mortar. The distance between beacons directly depends on the length of the rule used, but, as a rule, the average length of the distance is two meters.

An important stage in installing a screed under a laminate is preparing a cement-sand mortar. For this you will need: 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and water.

How to prepare a solution for screed:

Take three parts of sand.
Add one part of cement to the sand.
Add water to the mixture, stirring constantly until the desired consistency is achieved.

You can make the cement-sand mortar more durable using construction lime paste.

Tools for screed installation:

A construction mixer, hammer drill or drill with a special attachment for stirring the solution.
Container for preparing the solution, you can use a bucket with a volume of 15 liters (but you can do without a container, in this case the solution is placed directly on the base of the floor).
Rule for leveling mortar with a length of 1.5 meters.
Two spatulas for leveling the mortar and filling holes from beacons, 10 and 40 centimeters wide.
Metal beacons.
Brush or roller for applying primer to the base.
Level.

Ready mixes

To install a screed under a laminate, you can use not only a self-prepared cement-sand mortar, but also special ready-made mixtures sold in construction stores, for example “SM-10”, “SM-11”, “SM-12”, “Tink-10”, etc.

Part ready-made mixtures The screed consists of not only cement and fine purified sand, but also polymer and mineral additives. Using building mixtures, the question of installing a screed in one day becomes simpler.

If the difference in height of the base in the center of the room is 8-10 centimeters, then it can take about 35 bags of construction mixture to create a screed under the laminate.

Screed device for laminate flooring

The installation of the screed begins with the preparation of a cement-sand mortar and its distribution over the entire surface of the floor. In this case, the excess solution is usually leveled according to the level of the beacons. It is worth noting that the solution must be laid starting from the far wall of the room.

About 30 minutes after the solution has been laid on the base, the screed must be rubbed using trowels. This must be done until the surface of the screed becomes smooth and rough.

When installing a screed, it is important to take into account one strict rule - all work must be completed in one day. Extending the work period can significantly reduce the quality of the future screed.

In the next three days after laying the screed, its surface must be moistened with water, this reduces the appearance of cracks. After three days You can remove beacons. The holes formed after removing the beacons must be treated with a primer and rubbed with a solution. After this, the screed must be covered with plastic film, on top of which pour sand moistened with water. This structure should be left for 10 days, and as the sand dries, it will need to be moistened.

After ten days, the film with sand must be removed and the screed left for another 15 days to dry completely. Only after 28 days have passed from the date of installation of the screed will it be possible to begin laying the laminate.

The semi-dry screed technology is ideal for preparing the base for laying laminate flooring; it dries faster than a cement-sand screed made using the “wet” method. And the Express Screed company will complete the installation of a semi-dry screed in just one day, regardless of the area of the room.

High-quality and fast installation of semi-dry floor screed
3 year warranty!! The surveyor's visit is free!!
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The growing popularity of installing laminate flooring among consumers leads to the question of self-installation this coating. The main requirement for this will be a completely flat floor. In order to achieve this, it is necessary to perform a floor screed procedure.

The drying time of the screed depends on the composition and thickness of the material used and the climatic conditions in the room.

Base for laying laminate

IN regulatory documents SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings” the permissible floor unevenness is specified (the distance between the floor surface over an area of two meters) of no more than 2 mm for linoleum and no more than 6 mm for ceramic tiles.

Important! There are no such indicators for laminate, but material manufacturers recommend not exceeding differences of 3 mm.

This requirement is quite strict, so to obtain such a floor it is necessary to perform leveling using a solution of cement and sand or special mixtures for screed (also called self-leveling). If the maximum difference on the floor is no more than 4 mm, laying the laminate without preliminary screed is allowed.

What are the reasons for such stringent requirements?

The answer to this question lies in the structure of laminate tiles:

During the assembly process, individual laminate panels are assembled into a single covering, which makes movement of individual parts relative to the floor unacceptable.
The coating is attached using connections castle type at the ends and sides of the panel.
The manufacturer only provides for the location of all coating elements in the same plane. Other locations are simply not allowed by the locking design.
Under the influence of loads (person’s weight, furniture, etc.), the laminate will tend to repeat all the unevenness of the floor on which it is laid.
In case of displacement of panels relative to each other or their deformation lock fastening will break. This will lead to a violation of the integrity of the entire floor covering, the appearance of cracks, and the laminate will need to be replaced.

Recently, an opinion has emerged about the possibility of eliminating differences in floor level using a submarine under the laminate.

The thickness of modern substrates allows you to compensate for some unevenness, but do not forget that the laminate is laid on a substrate no more than 3 mm thick. Accordingly, if there are large irregularities, it will not be possible to simply compensate for the differences with a substrate.

If you use substrate slabs thicker than what the manufacturers recommend, all warranties will be void, and if the quality of the coating is poor, there will be no one to file a claim with.

Don't forget, that even a thick layer of substrate will not save you from large irregularities. This option will only slightly delay the appearance of problems - after a while, unevenness will be felt through the backing layer.

Laminate flooring can be laid on the screed without a backing if the backing is combined with the covering panels. Otherwise, a layer of underlay is placed between the floor and the laminate. It should be remembered that the main function of the intermediate material is not to compensate for unevenness, but to provide noise, heat and waterproofing, and soften the load on the floor.

Types of screeds

There are several options for leveling the floor under the laminate:

Dry type screed based on backfill and sheet covering.
Screed by laying plywood and wooden beacons.
Self-leveling screed and self-leveling floor.
Screed made of cement and sand mortar.

The first type of screed, dry screed, is used in small spaces, for wooden floors and when it is necessary to reduce the load on the floors (for example, in the attic or attic).

With this type of screed it is possible to compensate for significant differences and unevenness, but it should be Special attention pay attention to waterproofing the resulting floor, since dry screed is very sensitive to moisture.

If water gets on such a floor from above (in case of faulty plumbing or flooding by neighbors), it will become unusable. This is precisely what influences the low popularity of this method of floor leveling. But, if it is possible to achieve waterproofing, this method is very fast and effective.

Leveling the floor using plywood sheets most often used for wood floors, since in this case pouring a cement screed is not possible. From wooden slats they make beacons that need to be leveled on a horizontal plane. Then sheets of plywood are attached to them, DPS or MDF.

In this case, the plywood must be thick enough so as not to sag between the wooden beacons. The distance between the beacons is chosen based on the size and characteristics of the plywood sheet.

The third option using ready-mixes and self-leveling floors based on gypsum and cement binding materials is popular among users. The main advantage of the method will be a minimal layer of screed, but with significant unevenness and differences, such screed may not be enough.

Helpful information ! Screed using self-leveling flooring is quite simple and gives high-quality and effective results. There is also a drawback, which is the cost of the material. Self-leveling flooring is several times more expensive than traditional cement screed.

Thus, the most popular and quite effective is the traditional screed using a solution of cement and sand. Using this method, you can even out almost any differences and nervousness, and the reliability of the resulting floor has been proven over years of using the method.

Due to its availability and reliability, this screed method is most often used in modern world.

This method is more labor intensive, so it is advisable to work in pairs:

The first person prepares the solution and supplies it;
The second is by directly leveling the screed on the floor.

Installation of screed made of cement and sand mortar

The rule and beacons will be useful for this work.

To perform high-quality screeding and leveling the floor under the laminate with your own hands, use the step-by-step algorithm:

Removing old flooring. In this case, all layers of the old covering are removed until only the floor coverings remain. Then you need to remove all debris and dirt; for high-quality cleaning, it is better to use a construction vacuum cleaner.

Damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the room to the bottom of the wall. The tape can have a self-adhesive layer or be attached with double-sided tape.

Polyethylene construction film is laid over the entire floor(thickness 300 microns). The overlap on the walls is 5-6 cm, the overlap at the joints is 30 cm. It is important to tape the joints of the film with tape.

Beacons are placed from the highest point of the room. It will help to determine the position of this point laser level.
Laid out on the floor reinforcement mesh , which needs to be raised a few centimeters using spacers. The joints are connected with steel wire.

Using a cement mortar with a high concentration of cement (putty can be added), the level of the highest point is raised by 5 cm. from metal profile Beacons are made, which are installed from the highest point at a distance of 1.2 m from each other, 0.5 m away from the wall. Depending on the parameters of the rule, the distance can be changed.

After the base of the beacons has hardened, it is time to start pouring the floor. First you need to prepare a mixture for the screed from M400 cement, sand and water. Make the ratio of cement and sand 1:4, adding water to create a thick but fluid solution. The resulting screed is poured between adjacent beacons and leveled using the rule.

After finishing filling one strip, we move on to the next, but not to the adjacent one, but after one. Then you need to return to the strip between the two filled ones. So, gradually, the entire floor is filled.

It is necessary to allow the solution to completely harden and dry.

Please note that before laying a new coating on the floor, you need to check whether the screed is dry. To do this, you need to cover the floor with a sheet of polyethylene, securing the edges with tape. The next day we check whether there is liquid on the polyethylene. If there is no perspiration, the screed is completely dry.

Conclusion.

There are several options for leveling the floor for laying the underlay for the laminate and the laminate itself; the technology for making a cement screed with your own hands was discussed above. For more complete information and instructions, we recommend watching the video.