Today we will look at very interesting information about how to do homemade wind generator. After all, according to one inventive guy named Ted Baer, it’s very simple. He became the man who made homemade wind generators with his own hands in the form of a whole series of high-power and elementary devices.
A helicopter generator can be considered a more complex alternative to generating electricity using solar panels. Solar panels and possible batteries can provide electricity not only to houses outside the city, but also multi-story houses in large cities such as Moscow. read about the types and costs of solar panels and batteries on the Sunways Pv Systems website.
Thus, the blades of our wind design are made of soft aluminum. This material is often used in the manufacture suspended ceilings. Therefore, it can be purchased at any hardware store or even find it at home. After all, a good owner will always have the parts necessary for mastery. In order to slightly increase the level of rigidity of our blade, a 40 cm strip can be folded in half and fastened with special rivets.
Next, it’s irresistible to simply take an ordinary unnecessary wheel from a bicycle and begin attaching ready-made blades directly to its spokes. Such a homemade wind generator will be extremely suitable in many cases where it is necessary to generate electricity. But without a generator, of course, these homemade windmills are worth nothing.
Ted recommends using a permanent magnet motor as a generator. In this case, it is important to have a wired belt that would have high level resistance against ultraviolet radiation. Considering the fact that the output current reaches two amperes at a speed of 20 km/h, such a homemade wind generator can really be a worthy competitor solar panels. But provided there is constant wind.
According to the calculations of our inventor Ted Baer, such models of homemade wind generators will cost no more than eighty dollars. If you purchase all the parts new at a hardware store. But such simple elements can easily be found at home, as junk in the garage or attic. For example, a bicycle wheel or aluminum plate. Almost every owner has them. Then the cost of such wind generators with your own hands will be significantly reduced, and there will be many benefits. And the work in general is not difficult.
The most expensive purchase here may be a generator. direct current. It costs around $30 and comes with a special wired strap that can resist UV rays. The cost of the latter is about 10 dollars. Although if you are dealing in the agricultural sector, such a belt is used as a drive for a conveyor.
Our DIY wind generators additionally have a tail unit. The beam of such a part is made using plastic pvc pipes. It is also worth mentioning that the inventor recommends for his homemade product to use only the rear wheel of a bicycle, which has a diameter of 61 - 69 cm. In this case, the wheel must be attached to the end of the plug plastic pipe. In the middle of which you need to drill a small hole.
We have already mentioned that we use a DC motor as a generator, which has an operating voltage of 24 V. Such a motor was most often used in outdated models personal computers for disk drive. Therefore, you can look for such motor models at a computer junkyard or even in online stores. Maybe they're lying around in a warehouse somewhere? After all, their production has already ceased.
Such wind generators with your own hands must be attached directly to the windmill using a regular corner. Thus, you need to get a fairly strong and reliable shelf. Next, the engine is attached together with the shelf with clamps.
In this case, the pole for strengthening our wind farm is considered at the same time as a trench for electrical wiring. On top of our metal pole, you need to attach a small piece of PVC pipe to contact the plastic with the body of the windmill. In other words, we get a plastic-on-plastic bearing design.
It is also important to pay attention to the fact that the weight of the tail of such homemade wind generators must be selected with the condition of balancing general design windmill Ted Baer approached this issue creatively. After all, to achieve balance, the inventor used one-cent coins.
Wind generator testing
Our inventor carried out his testing of the self-made wind generators on his own Windstar minivan, which has a special trunk on the top of the car for attaching the platform. In order to secure such windmill structures with your own hands, it is best to use tripods for mounting a TV antenna on the roof of a house. At the same time, everything specifications, for example, wind speed, voltage and current can best be recorded using a video camera. So, for Ted Baer these indicators were as follows - 2A, 16V, 32W at 20 km/h.
Securing homemade windmill blades and installing them
The process of making such a device as wind generators with your own hands is simple. It is important to simply follow all the recommendations, which are outlined in great detail in the articles. So, our blades windmill must be DIY attached to the rear wheel of a bicycle by bending aluminum strips around each individual spoke. In this case, it is best to hook the curved pin into the wound around the next knitting needle. Next, this hook must be inserted into the hole made on each blade.
It is important to understand that the process of bending each blade of our windmill must be done with your own hands. A good helper in this case, a small piece of metal tinder may become, for example, 3 mm in diameter.
Of course, the material that the inventor used is somewhat thinner than what is sold in stores. That is why Ted suggested that the aluminum strip should be doubled. Here you can use different material for making blades with your own hands. It is possible, for example. take plastic, wood or plywood. Choose what you already have on hand. In order to somewhat reduce the cost of your invention and make the windmill not only the most useful, but the most profitable.
What characteristics should be taken into account when choosing a location for installing a wind turbine?
It is very important not only to make wind generators with your own hands, but also to place them appropriately. To ensure maximum efficiency of such devices. Such models of homemade wind generators are usually installed on a support, and higher. But it is also important to take into account the characteristics of the area.
For example, do-it-yourself horizontal wind generators are very sensitive to the direction of wind flow. It is recommended to install them so that the wind blows from one side. Whereas the wind generator we made from a bicycle wheel will itself turn in the required direction. And therefore there is no need to place it in any special way. Therefore, horizontal wind generators are not recommended to be installed on the coast of rocks. After all, then, the wind forces created by turbulent flows will not allow the mill to operate efficiently.
When choosing a place to install a DIY wind generator, it is also important to take into account the strength of the wind. Finding such information is not so difficult. After all, via the Internet you can find archived meteorological data for your area. Naturally, they will be somewhat approximate. After all, the nature and strength of the wind will be different in different parts of the city or town. But for general information it will do.
The ideal option for measuring wind force would be a special device called an anemometer. After all, it is with its help that you can most accurately measure the strength of the wind flow in a specific place for selection best place installation of a homemade windmill.
Thanks to this article, everyone will have a unique opportunity to make a model of homemade wind generators for minimal cash. And if you try hard, then all the parts and materials can be found from improvised means. The main thing is to understand well the meaning of the idea and realize it somewhat transformed. So to speak, in your own way. After all, all the materials used have analogs that are easy to get or find at home or with friends. Just use your imagination and create something similar with your own hands. What can become a useful device for your comfortable existence and, of course, saving money.
Many companies manufacture wind generators with screw propeller motors. This allows them to achieve efficiency (efficiency) of up to 45-50%. This is very good! But if this is your first time deciding to make your own wind generator, then you should start with a more simplified version. For the first time, you can make a wind generator from motor wheels with your own hands. Here is an illustration of the final version:
What is the purpose of creating a wind generator
If you ride an electric bike, you know that you need a motor with a power of 500 to 1000 watts. When driving down steep hills, the motor automatically recharges the battery. And if you have an idea to get your own electricity generator, then this part (motor wheel) can be reused for creation without significant rework.
Such a windmill can go along with factory generators, delivering current and charging the battery even at low speeds.
Stages of manufacturing a wind generator from a wheel motor
- Engine selection. In our case, this is a motor wheel. It is worth taking into account all parameters (Watts, volts, revolutions per minute).
- Let's make blades! You can choose the material for manufacturing - wood (needs painting and varnishing), fiberglass (a very long and painstaking process), or PVC pipe (the simplest option).
- We make a Hub (a place where parts are connected, where we make holes for fastening in accordance with the number of blades).
- Rotating mechanism (preferably the material is steel, then your wind generator will withstand any bad weather).
- We buy a controller that will measure our power. (you can take a controller from a car).
If you want the wind generator to work efficiently and for a long time, then you need vertical design– Savonius rotor. It consists of two semi-cylindrical blades and an overlap, from which the axes of rotation of the rotor are obtained. The Savonius rotor operates at a low rotation speed, always oriented towards the wind, and is practically independent of turbulence. In cooperation with the blades and air flows, the efficiency of the rotor increases.
Features of a self-made wind generator
- The current is supplied immediately after installation (even if the wind speed is 1-2 m/s).
- The rotation speed of our wind generator is equally proportional to the rotation speed.
- You can reduce the power using windings (they need to be short-circuited).
- And increase - just connect the same windings.
- As practice shows, most often the windings are connected in a star pattern, while on a standard motor wheel the connection is in a delta pattern. Please take this into account. It’s better to finish it on time, then the work will be done better.
- Wind generators can produce different power levels. It depends on the initial weight of the motor wheels. A weight of 4-6 kg gives 500-1000 W and an efficiency of about 80%, 8-10 kg - 1500-2000 W, weight more than 20 kg - 8000 W.
If you are seriously thinking about making a motor wheel, then our Sporte online store offers Alternative option for each. A powerful wind generator can be made from a 48V1000W rear wheel motor,
If you are concerned about the issue of obtaining alternative energy, you can assemble for yourself such a simple wind generator. The main part of the spare parts used are bicycle parts. With the help of sprockets and a chain, torque is transmitted to the generator. A part from a bicycle also acts as a generator - it is a dynamo. If you don't have a dynamo, you can use a DC motor.
Concerning propeller, then it is done very simply and also from available materials. At the moment, the easiest way to make a propeller is from PVC pipe or similar material, the pipe has a suitable profile for making blades.
You will also need to find some scrap metal to make a mast, make a base, and so on. Let's look at this topic in more detail.
Materials and tools that the author used to make the windmill:
Materials:
- a piece of PVC pipe;
- metal plates;
- thin galvanized sheet steel;
- nuts, bolts;
- bearings;
- a piece of metal tube (for making bearing housings);
- metal clamps (3 pieces);
- paper, marker, scissors (for making a template);
- glue;
- steel corner;
- pipe square section(mast);
- a wheel from a trolley;
- dynamo (or DC motor);
- driving and driven sprocket, chain (from the bicycle).
Tools:
- scissors;
-
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
-
- multimeter;
- spanners and other little things.
Windmill manufacturing process:
Step one. Let's start with the blades
The author makes the blades from a piece of PVC pipe. The first step is to make a template out of paper and then cut it out with scissors. We attach the template to the pipe and cut out the blades. Each new blade is cut out one by one, resulting in little waste. It is convenient to cut a pipe using.
Mark the beginning of each blade and cut out the pieces as the author did. The remaining parts are needed to attach the blades to the axle. Metal plates with holes are used as fasteners. We apply the plate to the blade and mark the places for drilling holes. In total, the author drills three holes in each blade.
As for the plates, cut them so that there is a free end left for attaching it to the central disk. Finally, trim all the blades with a grinder so that they do not have nicks and so on.
Step two. Making the screw core
The core of the propeller, to which the blades are screwed, is made of three plates, a round piece of sheet steel, and a nut. Mark on the central disk where the blades will be located, and also determine the center. We install a nut in the center; the author glues it with superglue for ease of assembly.
Let's start welding. First of all, weld the nut that we glued earlier. You need to weld it well, since this is the only place where the propeller will be attached. Then weld the plates to the disk to which the blades are attached. They also need to be welded carefully; the author makes a weld on both sides.
Step three. Screw assembly
Assemble the propeller. To do this, you just need to screw the blades to the core using bolts and nuts.
Step four. Making the base
So that the windmill does not fall and can be secured, make it solid foundation. To do this, the author cuts metal corner and then welds the frame.
Step five. Prepare the bearing
In order for the windmill to rotate in any direction around its axis, you will need to secure it to a bearing. Such a bearing is a wheel from a trolley, which can rotate 360 degrees. Cut off the excess from it with a grinder.
Step six. Assembling the windmill frame
The windmill mast is made from a piece steel pipe, the author has it with a square section. The height of the pipe is not large; this design rather implies installation on the roof or on another hill. Weld the mast to the base made earlier.
Weld the part that we extracted from the cart wheel to the upper end of the mast. Then a steel plate in the shape of the letter “L” is welded to it; it will be needed to attach the tail.
Step seven. Bushing with bearings
The propeller shaft rotates on two bearings. The author pressed these bearings into a piece metal pipe. Be sure to lubricate the bearings well before installation. In order not to be tricky with the bushing, you can also successfully use a ready-made bushing from the front or rear axle of bicycle wheels.
Step eight. Mounting clamps
The author secures the generator and bushing with bearings using ordinary steel clamps. To secure the dynamo to the machine, you will need to weld an additional plate to the frame.
Step nine. Tail fasteners
Find metal plates and weld them as seen in the photo. One part is welded directly to the rotating plate of the windmill.
Step ten. Sprockets and chain
Take the front bicycle sprocket and cut off any excess from it. Weld a nut to the center. This sprocket is located on the propeller shaft.
Install the dynamo into the clamp and install a small diameter sprocket onto the shaft. This will allow you to get fairly high generator speeds at relatively low propeller speeds. That's it, cut to required sizes and put on the chain.
Hello. Probably every do-it-yourselfer has a desire to try himself in alternative energy, and this desire awoke in me. In fact, many years ago I dreamed of building my own wind generator, but there was no money or time. But recently I was browsing through Youtobe and saw a homemade wind generator from a hoverboard wheel motor assembled by my fellow countryman (I’ll add a video at the end of the article). Magnetic wheel motor perfect option for building low-power generators, I thought, and began to look for my options
New motor wheels are very expensive, but used wheels cost almost nothing. I went to Avito and found two wheels. I bought one 6.5 inches for 800 rubles together with delivery by Russian Post from Evpatoria, and the second 10 inches was given to me for experiments by Nikolai from Krasnodar region, for which I thank him very much.
The first one that came to me was a 10-inch wheel motor with a power of 350W. The wheel is no longer suitable for a hoverboard, since some white dust inside the rim has eaten the aluminum to holes in two places, but it’s just right for a wind generator. This is a ten inch wheel
Under the cover is a stator with 27 windings and 30 poles on neodymium magnets, the cover is secured with 6 M6 bolts 
It's time to move on to the base of the windmill. A square was welded from a corner 40*40*3. On the front side, another piece of angle with a slot for the wheel motor shaft was attached to the top. 10.5 mm holes were drilled in the frame and this corner for M10 bolts 
Thus the motor wheel was jammed. I tried to turn the wheel to the side, but nothing happened.
The motor wheel is secured very securely. Naturally, under the M10 nuts there are groovers 
The base of the frame is ready and we need to think about the tail with protection from side gusts. A meter-long pipe was taken, cut lengthwise in the tail section to attach the tail blade, and a U-shaped part made of 4 mm strips of metal was welded vertically on the front side 
Now a long tube matched to the U-shaped part is vertically welded to the main frame from the tail side in the middle. The frame is connected to the tail with a metal pin 
Next, I welded a Y-shaped part to the frame, on the edge of which I drilled a hole for the spring. I welded an M6 bolt onto the tail pipe to secure the same spring. This spring is needed to fold the tail during a strong gust of side wind; in this way, the windmill turns smoothly with the wind and the load on the mast is much less. And there is less load on the blades themselves 
A little more detail on where the tail and main frame are attached 
In principle, the frame is ready and I’ll move on to the blades and their attachment to the motor wheel from the hoverboard. The mounting adapter was cut from 0.8mm sheet metal. For accurate markings I had to remember the basics of geometry. On a piece of paper A4, I drew a circle with a compass and inscribed it in equilateral triangle and drew rays through the center of the circle and the vertices of the triangle. The end result is this detail. The drawing on the workpiece is incorrect, so please ignore it. 
Now it's time to make the blades. A piece of 160 pieces of sewer pipe was cut out and three parallel lines were drawn. It is good to draw the first line along the pipe marking, and then divide it into three equal parts and draw two more lines. I used the pattern from ready-made calculations from the E-Veterok website
To view click on the picture 
Here is a pattern for a 5 meter wind at 318 rpm, it is at these rpms that battery charging begins, according to calculations
I glued the pattern to the pipe and transferred the drawing 
Next, I cut out the blades with a grinder 
It was not possible to check the alignment at the table in the garage due to lack of space. To check the alignment, I drove a meter-long pin into the ground and secured the entire structure 
Surprisingly, the design turned out to be very balanced. Next, I came up with a rotating mechanism from an old Gas generator and installed everything on a four-meter mast and got so carried away with my work I forgot to take a picture of what and how, but it’s not scary because everything had to be redone.
Firstly, 0.8 mm of metal was not enough even for a 5 m/s wind and the blades bent already on the second day, and the tail was very heavy and outweighed the entire structure, which made it difficult for the windmill to turn with the wind. Eh, sorting it all out again, but oh well
As I said for rotary mechanism I used a lawn generator. I installed a 40A diode bridge under the cover and insulated it well from the frame using heat-shrink tubing and PCB plates. So the voltage will come through two wires, already rectified 
The rotor crowns were cut off from the shaft, the winding and the iron blank were removed. The teeth themselves on which the rotor rested were ground down so that the bearing could be placed lower. Only the slip rings remain. Instead of the original M4 bolts, holes were drilled for M6 and in places where the bolt would not fit, the edge was ground off with a grinder, sometimes to the point of holes
I will relieve the voltage through current collection brushes 
As I said, the 0.8mm thick adapter couldn’t cope and I had to cut the same one and put them together. The adapter is attached to the wheel along the side with M4 bolts at 9 points, three per side. Three bolts from them re-attach the blade. The blades are screwed to the adapter with M6 bolts, three per blade, plus M4 through the side of the wheel 
On the front side I reinforced the fastening with a strip of 3 mm metal 
The front cover of the generator was screwed to the frame from below. Longitudinal grooves were machined into the shaft for pulling cables.
And this is what everything looks like inside 
General view of the windmill. As you can see from the results, I shortened the tail by half, and increased the tail blade by one and a half times, and the windmill is normally balanced 
Well, now everything is painted and a casing made of galvanized sheet is installed on the windmill 
I lifted everything onto a 4 meter mast. The display shows almost 28V at Idling at 5m\s 
The display shows 42V at idle at 5m/s with a small gust 
And this is what it looks like on a temporary mast 
While the windmill is not in use, the wires are short-circuited. This type of brake, speed in a wind of 5 m/s is about 40 per minute. It is necessary to assemble a controller that will limit the voltage to 14.4V to charge the battery, but there are no powerful field-effect transistors. I have already ordered the transistors from China and in about 3-4 weeks I will be connecting everything and filming what this little windmill can do from the motor of a hoverboard wheel. To find out what happens next, subscribe to updates on
