Insulate the walls with polystyrene foam from the outside using your hands. Insulating your home with polystyrene foam. Everything you wanted to know but were afraid to ask. Polystyrene foam is one of the best modern insulation materials for private homes.

Good external insulation significantly reduces heating costs as well as Maintenance Houses. However, insulating a house using this method will only be effective if it is done well. Before you begin repair work, you should thoroughly study the question of how to insulate the walls from the outside. Then the funds invested in work and materials will be effectively used and will quickly return in the form of savings on heating.

Insulating walls with expanded polystyrene (a type of polystyrene foam) is not a very difficult task, but you must follow certain rules. Mistakes made when performing insulation can result in it being less effective and, in some cases, can lead to serious damage to the façade. To properly insulate walls, it is important to follow certain rules and avoid common mistakes. Below are 11 of the most common rules and mistakes when insulating a building with polystyrene foam.

1. Proper preparation wall surfaces

The surface on which the polystyrene boards will be placed must be properly reinforced, stable, level and dry. It should be free of contaminants that reduce adhesion, such as:

• dirt;
• adhesive coatings;
• formwork oil;
• any type of pollution caused by chemical or biological agents.

The base must be level - small inequalities (up to 2 cm) are leveled using a leveling solution. In case of large unevenness (more than 2 cm), you must use different thicknesses of polystyrene foam boards so that they form one plane.

Underlay-related errors include:

• incorrect assessment of the condition of the substrate;
• no primer;
• poor assessment of wall geometry (flatness, deviation from vertical).

1. Bonding foam plastic, insufficient amount of glue

The glue must be applied both along the edge of the slab and on its surface. If you apply glue only along the edge, or only at one point, the plate will bend, and the edges of the plates will be visible on the finished facade.

Proper use of foam glue:

a) along the periphery and points - in this case, the glue should be applied in the form of strips along the edges of the slabs with a width of 4-6 cm. On the rest of the surface, the glue is applied pointwise, there will be from 3 to 8 points. The total area of ​​the glue should cover 40% of the panels white and 60% graphite plates.

b) the comb method, which is used only in the case of smooth, plastered surfaces. The adhesive is applied using a notched trowel to the entire surface of the slab.

Note: The adhesive solution is applied to the surface of the polystyrene plate, and never applied to the substrate.

The adhesive on each sheet should be placed around the edge and on the surface.

1. Glue selection

A poor choice of adhesive or mortar of unsatisfactory quality can lead to the tearing off of the foam plates, along with other layers of the facade. Generally, it is recommended to use complete system insulation from the manufacturer - such a system contains all the necessary elements, guaranteed quality, and good consistency of the elements with each other.

1. Distribution of panels on the wall

It is important that the foam plates are offset by half their length in the direction from bottom to top, starting from the corner of the wall.

It is also important to position the slabs correctly in the corners. If this is done incorrectly, then thermal bridges appear at the connection of the plates, through which heat loss occurs.

In addition, polystyrene panels must also be laid neatly and tightly side by side. Connections should not form straight lines.

1. Filling gaps between slabs

The gaps between polystyrene foam boards should not be filled with adhesive solution (this creates thermal bridges). To fill gaps up to 4mm wide, use polyurethane foam.

1. Reinforcement with dowels

Dowels that are not deep enough will cause problems. If they are installed too deep, they will destroy the structure of the insulation board. If they are installed too shallowly, they can create a bulge that will be visible on the wall surface.

1. Starter plinth and mesh

If starter baseboard and mesh are not used, the insulation will be exposed to the weather and rodents such as mice, which, seeking shelter for the winter, often bite into the bottom layer of insulation and cause it to become damaged.

1. Uneven foam panel surfaces

The surface of the slabs after their placement must be flat. If there are uneven surfaces, the surface must be sanded to remove the unevenness. Otherwise, they will also appear on the facade. Unfortunately, sanding polystyrene is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process, so it is often forgotten.

1. The location of the plates around the door and window openings

There should be no seams between slabs in the corners of window and door openings. Additionally, you should use additional diagonal mesh strips in these areas.

Layout diagram in the corners of window and door openings

The corners of window and door openings should fall into the central part of the polystyrene plate.

1. Weather conditions and performance of work in unsuitable weather

Installers often do not take into account weather during repairs. It is important that insulation work is carried out in appropriate weather - the temperature is not lower than 5 ° C and not higher than 25 ° C. Of course, there should be no precipitation at the time of insulation. This is important, not for comfortable work, but for the properties of materials that retain their qualities only under certain conditions. For example, with more high temperature the glue would dry quickly before it could bond the foam to the backing well.

1. Lack of sun protection materials

The use of solar shading is especially important when installing gray foam. When exposed to the sun, it heats up quickly, and the result can be the formation of gaps between the plates and their peeling from the substrate.

How to properly insulate a house - video

Reviews

Reviews about insulating the walls of a house with polystyrene foam can be left in the comments.

Prepare your sleigh in the summer... This proverb perfectly reflects the fact that it is never too late to think about insulating your home, or rather, it is better in advance.

According to reviews, among the types of insulation of both private houses, dachas and cottages, and multi-storey (apartment) buildings, external insulation is the leader. And among the materials, the absolute favorite is polystyrene foam.

We propose to understand what determines the high efficiency of insulating walls with foam plastic from the outside.

Advantages of external insulation

• The first, and most important, shift of the dew point outside the wall (see photo). Why is this good? The fact that the house will always have a dry outer wall. The problem with freezing will disappear by itself. In addition, moisture, without accumulating in the wall, will not destroy it. This will allow the supporting structure to “age” an order of magnitude slower.

• Second, the wall will accumulate heat. Thus, after airing the apartment in winter, it will quickly recover normal temperature. After all, the walls will release part of the accumulated heat back into the room, and not outside.

• Third, work can be done at any time. Their implementation is not fraught with time-consuming and expensive internal renovation, and arrangement of additional ventilation.

Advantages of polystyrene foam

• the lowest thermal conductivity among known ones modern insulation materials;
• low price of material;
• low cost of labor of hired professionals;
• the opportunity to insulate yourself;
• ease of installation of foam plastic and much more.

The technology for insulating walls with foam plastic is quite simple. But to do the job efficiently, you can only know some of the nuances and features.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to insulate a wall from the outside with polystyrene foam, and what pitfalls can be encountered at each stage.

Instructions for insulating walls with foam plastic from the outside

Stage 1 – selection of material

Insulation of an external wall with polystyrene foam is a multi-layer structure. This cake adds warmth additional properties, in the form of strength and aesthetics. It also allows you to protect the material from the destructive effects of the external environment.

For external insulation, it is better to choose polystyrene foam of the PSB-S-25 brand.

Nuance: This choice is determined by two factors - strength and thermal insulation properties. Of course, a material with a density of 15 will retain heat better. Because it has more air. But PSB-S-15 foam plastic is more fragile.

Disadvantages of PSB-S-15 foam

(when used in external insulation)

• crumbles a lot during operation;
• difficult to trim evenly;
• it is almost impossible to grate the sheet;
• plaster does not adhere well;
• The plastered surface of the wall is easy to push through.

The thickness of the foam sheet depends on:

1. desired effect;
2. region (the temperature in the cold month, the strength and direction of the wind are taken into account);
3. the material from which the wall is made.

Nuance: insulation brick wall the outside with foam puts forward even more demands on the accuracy of calculating the thickness of the sheet. Because a thin layer will result in the dew point not moving towards the foam, but remaining in the wall. Then, the moisture that will collect in the brick will increase the rate of its destruction. And if the foam layer is too thin, then in winter the moisture will turn into ice. As a result, bubbles will form on the wall, and the sheet will simply be torn out.

Advice: if the required sheet thickness is 100 mm, it is better to buy two 50 mm each. and mount them overlapping. This will eliminate cold bridges at the joints of the sheets.

Material for external wall insulation with foam plastic

• sheets (plates) of foam plastic;
• starting profile;
• construction glue;
• dowels with a wide head (mushrooms, umbrellas).

Tip: If you use foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm, then for a concrete base the length of the dowel should be at least 90 mm, for a brick base - at least 120 mm. The dowel must enter the wall at least 50 mm.

• perforated corner with reinforcing mesh;
• polymer reinforcement mesh;
• profile for slopes;
• plaster;
• paint for facade work.

Stage 2 – surface preparation

The wall is inspected for defects (cracks, peeling, biological formations - moss, fungus). The protruding parts will later be covered with foam plastic, and those that are poorly fixed will be knocked down. If the old plaster comes off (peeled) from the wall, it also needs to be removed.

Sometimes there is moss on the walls - it needs to be scraped off. Paint, if any, is also removed. And any other layer with zero vapor permeability.

If there are deep cracks in the wall, they need to be repaired. To do this they need to be expanded. Prime the resulting V-shaped channel. Then seal it up. Suitable for embedding sand-cement mortar, foam glue or construction foam.

Cracks in wallsTechnology for sealing cracks in walls

The prepared wall surface is primed.

Priming the walls For priming, use a universal deep penetration priming solution. This will protect the wall from fungus and other biological activity, and will also increase surface adhesion.

Tip: The suitability of the surface can be checked as follows. A block of foam plastic measuring 10x10x10 mm is glued to the wall with an adhesive solution. Three days later it is torn off. If the block comes off completely, it means the wall is unusable and requires further cleaning. If the block breaks but holds, you can start working.

Is it possible to insulate the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam?

Insulation wooden walls It is better not to use polystyrene foam outside. This is due to the fact that wood has natural moisture. In order for it to be able to release moisture to the external environment, insulation with a porous structure is needed. Mineral wool would be ideal in this case.

WITH practical point From our point of view, insulation of wooden walls with polystyrene foam is possible. Provided there are no serious cracks in the tree. Otherwise, before starting work, you need to seal them with natural insulation - moss, felt or a special acrylic sealant, which allows you to seal even the most minor defects and crown joints. In addition, installation of polystyrene foam is carried out only using the frame method.

Insulating wooden walls from the outside with polystyrene foam - pros and cons

Stage 3 – marking

In this case, marking does not mean that you need to apply a drawing to the entire wall. Such a grid will only confuse, because... the foam sheet has a tolerance of 10 mm. by 1 m.p.

But it is simply necessary to measure the horizontal and vertical. Because it is not always possible to match the angle, because... the wall may have slight deviations.

Stage 4 – installation of foam plastic on the wall and facade

Advice for beginners - start working on the wall that is least noticeable, this will be your training ground.

The installation of foam plastic on the wall begins with the installation of a starting profile. Its width is equal to the thickness of the foam sheet. Sometimes the UW-50 or 100 profile is used for these purposes. These are the most popular sheet sizes for insulation.

Note: It is better to use a special starting (base) profile, because it contains perforation, which allows the fastener to securely fix the profile, and at the same time allows its movement due to thermal expansion.

The starting profile is mounted according to the previously applied markings. Its use allows you to lay the first row of sheets absolutely evenly. In addition, there is a popular opinion that a metal starting profile will protect the sheet from rodents.

To level out the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap of about 5 mm must be left between adjacent profiles.

Fastening the profile for foam insulation

The arrangement of the corner is shown in the photo

Installing a corner for foam insulation

Methods for attaching foam

The foam installation technology has several modifications. To fix the sheet on the wall, you can choose one of three options:

• Apply glue to the edge of the sheet and make several sculpts over the area of ​​the sheet. This method is suitable for uneven walls;

The method of attaching foam plastic to flat wall

• Apply glue with a notched trowel over the entire sheet. Option for a relatively flat wall;

Method of attaching polystyrene foam to a flat wall

• apply special glue from a bottle. This glue is similar to construction foam. At the same time, it is much easier to work with than with an adhesive solution. Plus, it doesn't require kneading and secures the sheet firmly to the wall.

Fastening polystyrene foam with glue from a can

The second row of sheets is laid offset as shown below. This scheme makes installation more reliable and reduces the likelihood of cracks.

Offset foam fastening scheme

So all the rows are laid out in order down to the last one.

Tip: In order for the glue to set completely, the wall covered with foam plastic must stand for 3-4 days. If you do foam insulation with your own hands, then by the end of the work the first section usually has time to stand for the required time.

Particular attention should be paid to the finishing of slopes, because this is also a source of heat loss. The finishing process in the photo.

Installation of slopes when insulating with foam plastic

The window sill will have to be replaced after installing the foam.

In order to ensure that in places where the insulation adjoins the frame metal-plastic window or there was no heat loss from the door, you need to install a special window profile. Due to the fact that the profile has a self-adhesive strip, it is easily installed on the window frame. Installation process in the photo.

Installation window profile when insulated with foam plastic

Installation of the profile guarantees the absence of deformation and a finished appearance.

Stage 5 – additional fastening of foam plastic to the wall

Umbrella dowels (fungi) for fastening foam. Reliable fixation can be provided by special plastic umbrella dowels (fungi) for fastening foam, which do not “fall through” into the sheet, but securely fix it.

There are two ways to mount umbrellas, as shown in the figure.

The first option is suitable for smooth joints. If there are significant gaps between the sheets, then you need to use the second option.

Note: The first option will save dowels, but it will take time to adjust the sheets to size.

Fixed umbrella dowel When installing the dowel, make sure that it is slightly recessed into the sheet.

It is worth noting that in classic version The umbrella is mounted as shown in the photo. However, since such installation takes a lot of time, and the plastic dowel does not create cold bridges, even experienced builders neglect this rule.

Method of fastening foam plastic with “recessing” the head of the dowel-umbrella

The gaps formed at the junction of two sheets are sealed with foam. If the gap is more than 20 mm wide, the gap is sealed with a piece of foam plastic. For greater reliability, the back side of the trim is coated with glue or foam.

Sealing the necks at the foam joints

After sealing all the cracks, begin trimming the protruding parts of the sheet that meet at the corners.

Foam sanding grater

Tip: If a wall finished with foam plastic has stood for more than 2 weeks without finishing, it will have to be sanded completely, because... ultraviolet radiation has already damaged the surface layer of insulation.

Stage 6 – finishing corners and slopes with foam plastic

Perforated corner with reinforcing mesh. Corners of the house or slopes need additional protection from blows. In addition, it is difficult to ensure the required mesh overlap here. Yes, and cutting the foam perfectly can be difficult. Therefore, a special perforated corner with reinforcing mesh is provided for them.

It is attached with glue and pressed tightly using a special corner spatula onto the outer or inner corner of the house, or slope.

The process of installing polystyrene foam at the corners is shown in the photo. Inside the slope, as already mentioned, a special corner is used.

The process of installing foam plastic on corners and slopes

At this stage, the house is ready for further finishing.

Stage 7 – façade plaster on polystyrene foam

External wall insulation with foam plastic helps protect the house from heat loss. But what will take care of protecting the insulation itself? Finishing (facade, decorative) plaster, siding, lining or any other finishing material. In our example, this is plaster.

Its basis is a polymer reinforced mesh for foam plastic with cells 3x3, 4x4, 5x5. The mesh density is in the range of 140-160 g/m2. The purpose of the reinforcing mesh is to ensure the integrity of the wall surface and prevent the appearance of cracks.

Advice: do not be tempted by the low cost of the mesh - in this case, saving is inappropriate. High-quality mesh is coated with a special solution that protects it from the influence of alkalis and acids contained in adhesive solutions. Poor quality mesh will “dissolve” in the glue.

How to attach the mesh to the foam?

Fastening the mesh to polystyrene foam - 1 The mesh is fixed with glue. The same one on which the foam was attached. There is a special marking on the mesh. The red stripe shows how much fabric should be overlapped. This is approximately 100 mm.

If there are no markings, try to maintain an even overlap along the entire length of the strip.

Fastening the mesh to polystyrene foam-2

The procedure for attaching the mesh: cut a strip of mesh of the required length, plus 250-200 mm. Glue is applied to the top of the wall. The area of ​​the adhesive strip is approximately 100x10 mm. The mesh is placed on it and pressed. Roughly speaking, the mesh should sink into the glue.

Trimming excess mesh

Tip: make sure that the mesh does not bunch up. Level it with a spatula. But don't overdo it, otherwise you'll pull the entire strip down. At the bottom, the excess mesh is trimmed off.

In order for the putty to cover the mesh over the entire surface of the wall, it must be applied in two layers. One thick layer will be covered with microcracks. This will not cause harm, but the defect will be visually noticeable. Please note that the previous layer must dry completely.

Advice: do not work with putty in windy weather. Otherwise, the layer will dry out quickly, which will also lead to the appearance of microcracks.

Stage 8 – priming and finishing

As the name of the stage suggests, the main work here is related to priming the wall surface. And then they begin applying finishing putty and/or painting.

More visual information on how to insulate an external wall with polystyrene foam is contained in the video instructions

Ignoring the rules for installing foam plastic when performing external wall insulation can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Consequences of poor-quality foam installation

Conclusion

We hope that this instruction will allow you to insulate an external wall with polystyrene foam efficiently and without problems.

Tags: Insulation Walls Foam plastic

Do you want to get cozy and warm housing, the temperature in which does not depend on the vagaries of the weather? Then you should insulate the walls outside with polystyrene foam. Don't know where to start and how to get started with this work? In this case, study this article - it will give you answers to your questions.

Insulation of external walls with foam plastic

Foam plastic, its advantages and disadvantages

First, let's get acquainted with the material that will be discussed in the article. Polystyrene foam is a polymer insulation material produced in the form of white slabs. The material has a pronounced granular structure, with each individual grain containing many voids filled with gas. It is their presence that gives the foam excellent thermal insulation qualities. You can see other properties of the material in the table.

Foam boards

Table. Foam plastic - main characteristics.

Important! When buying polystyrene foam, pay attention to the fact that it has fire retardant additives, and that the pores in the grains contain non-flammable carbon dioxide.

Insulating the facade with foam plastic

The advantages of polystyrene foam include:

• low cost;
• good thermal insulation qualities;
• low weight;
• ease of processing and installation;
• unattractive to bacteria and fungus;
• high durability.

As for the disadvantages of polystyrene foam, there are two of them. The first is the flammability of the material. The second is low vapor permeability, which, in the event of an error in the design or installation of insulation, can lead to the appearance of mold on the main wall.

Polystyrene foam as insulation

The main task performed by insulation is to shift the dew point outward. Let's consider three options for buildings.

1. In the first case, there is only a wall without any insulation. The dew point is located inside the material, between its outer and internal sides there is a significant temperature difference. As a result, a lot of heat escapes through the wall, condensation forms in the house, and the service life of the material decreases significantly due to dampness.
2. In the second case, the insulation is located from the inside. The dew point moves to the area between it and the wall. Heat loss is significantly reduced, but dampness remains. There is also a risk of mold growing between the insulation and the wall.
3. In the third case, the insulation is located outside, the dew point moves behind the wall of the house. The latter is now not subject to dampness and does not lose heat.

Dew point location

Installation of insulation of external walls with polystyrene foam. All components of the system are highlighted and signed

Preparing external walls for insulation

Construction work related to insulating the facade of a house with foam plastic begins with preparing the walls. They need to be cleaned, leveled, primed, etc. All these steps are described in more detail in step by step instructions below.

Step 1. To work at heights exceeding human height, build scaffolding. You can make them yourself from timber and boards available on the site, but it is safer to use factory-made products.

Dismantled scaffolding

Factory assembly scaffolding

The distance from the walls to the scaffolding should be equal to the thickness of the insulation layer (in this case it is 20 cm) plus another 30-40 cm for the working space

When erecting scaffolding, be sure to check its correct position vertically and horizontally using a level

Step 2. Inspect the walls for various defects. Seal cracks and holes, sagging mortar chip it off. Prepare openings for water and gas pipelines and other utilities.

Removing solution build-up

Step 3. Treat the walls with a deep penetration primer. Since the house in the example is made of aerated concrete blocks, two layers will be required. For the first time, the primer must be diluted by adding water from a third to half of the total volume.

First, the primer must be diluted with water.

Treating walls with deep penetration primer

Important! Primer treatment in two layers is necessary not only for aerated concrete, but also for other porous materials, such as foam blocks and sand-lime brick.

Step 4. Apply a second coat of primer, but not diluted with water.

Applying a second coat of primer

Insulating external walls with foam plastic - step-by-step instructions

After completing the preparation, proceed to laying the polystyrene foam boards. In this case, their mounting on the wall will be combined - both glue and dowels with “umbrellas” are used.

The process itself will include:

• laying expanded polystyrene for insulation on ordinary walls of the house;
• on window and door openings;
• on the corners;
• to the space under the roof of the cottage.

For all processes from this list, separate step-by-step instructions have been compiled, which can be found in the subsections of the article presented below.

Insulating external walls with foam plastic - step-by-step instructions

Working with regular walls

Let's start insulating the outside of the house with polystyrene foam. Let's start with a relatively simple one - installing the first row of polystyrene foam boards and laying them on ordinary walls.

Step 1. Measure how smooth the walls of the house you are insulating are and identify any differences in thickness. To do this, use either a stretched thread or a laser level.

Checking the evenness of the walls

Step 2. Place a mark at the bottom of the wall and draw a line from it along which the first row of polystyrene foam boards will be laid.

There is a mark at the bottom

A line is drawn along which the first row will be laid

Important! In this case, when insulating the walls from the outside, the foam is laid directly on the foundation - it is level enough for this. In other situations, install a special aluminum support profile before installing polystyrene foam boards.

Step 3. Mix the glue to install the polystyrene foam insulation. To do this, dilute the dry mixture in water. Choose proportions based on the instructions printed on the glue package. Stir the solution using a mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment, working at low speed.

Water is poured first

Then the dry mixture is added

Step 4. Prepare polystyrene foam boards for the first row of insulation. In this case, a cutout is created in each of them, as in the diagram below. Cut polystyrene foam boards using a special table using a hot nichrome thread. If such equipment is not available, use a fine-tooth hacksaw.

Block from the first row foam insulation indicated by a red arrow

Cutting polystyrene foam with hot nichrome thread

Step 5. Apply adhesive solution to the first block. To begin, make a thin strip around the perimeter by pressing the trowel into the polystyrene foam. Then add more solution, bringing the layer thickness to 25-30 mm. Apply several glue dots in the center of the block, their number depends on the area of ​​the insulation element.

How to apply adhesive solution

Applying the first thin layer of glue around the perimeter of the block

Applying a second layer, more voluminous. Be careful when working with it - the glue should not get on the ends of the foam block

Glue dots in the center of the block are indicated by arrows

Step 6. Perform a test installation of the polystyrene foam block. The purpose of the event is to find out what proportion of the total area is occupied by glue. To do this, lean the block against the wall and then set it back. Depending on the thickness of the insulation layer, the adhesive contact area should be 40-60% of the total.

Test installation of insulation

Step 7 On paper or directly on the wall, prepare marks along which the polystyrene foam blocks will be placed. Lay the slabs according to the same principle as brickwork - the top row is shifted towards the bottom row so that the vertical seams do not coincide. The permissible distance is from 15 cm, otherwise the seams will become “cold bridges”. You can see the layout of the foam blocks in the images below.

Layout of foam blocks

The same, but the distances are indicated

Step 8 Proceed to laying the first block - apply to it adhesive composition as shown earlier, lean it against the marked place and lean it against it. Then level the position of the product. A thread stretched along the upper edge of the first row of blocks and a regular building level will help you with this.

Laying the first block

Aligning the first block

Important! Use small pieces of foam as pads to support the first row of blocks.

A piece of foam as a lining

Step 9 Using the same principle as in the previous step, lay the second, third and subsequent blocks of the first row.

Laying subsequent blocks of the first row

Step 10 Then lay the remaining rows of foam insulation. You can read about how to do this at corners and openings in the following subsections of the article. Join the blocks tightly together, fill the gaps with polystyrene foam glue, polystyrene foam or thin pieces material.

Filling gaps

Step 11 After the glue or polyurethane foam that you filled the joints between the blocks has dried, cut off the excess with a construction knife.

Removing excess glue

Step 12 Using the rule, determine how even the insulation layer is. Sand the protruding areas with a special grater.

Sanding raised areas

Insulation of corners

Installation of insulation on the corners occurs according to the following scheme - on one side the block extends beyond the wall boundary at a distance equal to the thickness of the block installed on the second side. On the next row, the order of arrangement of foam insulation elements changes to exactly the opposite. Using a similar principle, blocks are installed on internal corners. For a better idea, check out the images below.

Placement of the block on one side of the corner with exit beyond the wall boundary

Installing the block on the other side end-to-end with the one that extends beyond the wall. Excess is cut off with a saw

First block of the second row

Subsequent blocks

Installing foam blocks on the second row of the corner - sides change

Scheme for applying glue to a corner block. The part that extends beyond the wall must remain clean - the solution cannot be applied to it

Scheme for laying polystyrene foam boards on internal corners

Now let's look at how foam blocks are actually installed on the corners of a building.

Step 1. Mark one of the foam blocks. Select the part that will extend beyond the wall at the corner and the part that will be glued to the surface.

Marking the insulation board

Another photo of the process

Step 2. Apply the previously mixed solution to the part of the block that is glued to the wall at the corner. Perform this operation carefully - the glue should not get on another part of the product that you previously separated using markings.

Applying the solution to the part of the block that is glued to the wall at the corner

The solution is applied

Step 3. Place the block against the wall so that the glue adheres to the surface. Align horizontally and vertically, and be sure to use a building level.

The block is applied to the wall

Block Alignment

Step 4. Measure how long a block you will need to install on the other side of the corner. Cut off the excess with a fine-toothed hacksaw.

Drawing a cutting line

Trimming a block

Step 5. Apply glue to the back surface of the foam and install the block on the other side of the corner. Connect it tightly to the product that you installed several operations ago.

Installation of the block

Step 6. Cut off the protruding part of the first block using a hacksaw. At the end you should have a right angle without any defects. If there is a gap between the blocks, then cover it with special glue for polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. Using the same principle as outlined in this instruction, work with the remaining external and internal corners of the building.

The protruding part is cut off

Insulation of window/door openings and walls next to them

First, let's look at the principle by which walls are insulated near a doorway. Your main concern here will be to ensure there is enough space to open and close. There are two options for installing the frame and door.

1. The door is installed flush with the outside of the insulation layer. In this case, you need special fasteners for it and supports in the form of channels. You can see their installation diagrams in the image below.
2. The door is installed flush with the main wall. As a result, it turns out to be “recessed” in the insulation. To ensure normal opening of the door, the polystyrene foam along the edges of the opening has to be filed.

Installing the door flush with the outside of the insulation layer, top view

On the sides of the door frame you can see fasteners

Since the door, when fastened at the same level with the insulation, protrudes forward strongly, the support for it is not the plinth, but two well-fixed channels

Installing the door flush with the main wall. The process of installing the frame and canvas occurs as usual, but the insulation in the opening must be filed down. Otherwise, when opening the door, it will constantly rub against it, scratch and damage the insulation itself.

Let's present the process of laying insulation near a doorway in the form of step-by-step instructions. In this case, the option of installing the frame and the door itself at a level with the main wall is being considered.

Step 1. Pick up required quantity blocks and saw them off the edge with a regular hacksaw with fine teeth.

The edge of the block is filed

Step 2. Install a frame in the doorway if this has not been done previously.

Step 3. Degrease the surface of the door frame.

Degreasing the surface of the door frame

Step 4. Prepare the required number of profiles for thermal insulation of openings. Unpack them, measure and cut them. In this case, the edges of the profile adjacent to the corners of the openings must be cut at an angle of 45°.

Preparation of profiles for thermal insulation of openings

Fitting

Profile trimming

Step 5. Remove the protective tape from the adhesive layer of the profile and secure it to one side of the opening. Make sure that the profile fits tightly to the surface.

Profile fastening

Step 6. Using the same principle, glue the profiles to the other sides of the opening. In the corners, tightly join them to each other with cuts made at an angle of 45° at one of the previous stages of work.

Installation of profiles on the remaining sides of the opening

Step 7 Prepare strips of fiberglass mesh. Their width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation layer plus 10 cm for fastening to the main wall. In this case, the strip is cut from a single roll of mesh.

Cutting a roll of fiberglass mesh

Step 8 Along the perimeter of the opening, apply a 10 cm wide strip of adhesive mixture to the wall.

Strip of adhesive mixture

Step 9 Place one of the edges of the fiberglass mesh strip against the glue applied in the previous step. Press the material against it, literally “drown it.”

The edge of the fiberglass mesh is pressed against the glue

Step 10 Apply another layer of glue on top of the part of the mesh leaning against the wall.

An adhesive solution is applied on top

Step 11 Repeat the previous mesh operations for the other sides of the doorway.

The same is done with other parties.

Step 12 Install foam blocks with cut edges around the perimeter of the opening.

Installation of insulation blocks

The situation with window openings is approximately similar - the block itself with frame and glass can be installed both in the depth of the opening and at its edge. In the first case, a gap appears between the outer layer of insulation and the window, which is closed with narrow strips of foam plastic. They are laid on glue in the inner surfaces of the opening.

Installation of a window block “in the depths” of the opening. You can notice a gap between the frame and the insulation layer

Same window installation, but top view. Added a narrow strip of foam to inner surface opening. It covers the resulting gap, which otherwise could become a “cold bridge”

In the second option, the window is mounted on the edge of the opening, with the frame adjacent to the insulation layer on the outer wall. This method is more effective in terms of thermal insulation.

Regardless of the installation method, the layer of foam on the external walls should slightly overlap window unit to prevent the house from freezing through it during the cold season

Installation diagram of a window unit adjacent to the insulation layer

It is also worth saying that the joints of polystyrene foam blocks should not coincide with the joint of the window block with the opening. Therefore, along the perimeter, insulation is installed in the form of products with L-shaped cutouts. There are two options for how to do this, and they are presented in the images below.

First option

Second option

The process of insulating walls with foam plastic near window openings is in many ways similar to that for a doorway. Here are step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. Install the window block, move it closer to the edge of the opening and secure it well there.

Installation of a window unit

Fastening the window block

Step 2. Remove the protective film from the frame and degrease it.

Degreasing the frame

Step 3. Glue a special profile around the perimeter of the frame.

A profile is glued around the perimeter

Step 4. Apply a 10 mm wide strip of glue along the perimeter of the profile to the wall.

Applying glue

Step 5. Using the glue applied in the previous step, attach a strip of fiberglass mesh according to the same principles as for the doorway.

Fastening the fiberglass mesh strip

Step 6. Cut out the blocks in accordance with the diagrams shown in the images in this section of the article. Secure around the perimeter of the opening.

Installation of insulation blocks

Important! When fixing the foam under the window opening, make the slight slope necessary to install the ebb.

Slight tilt required to install low tide

As for the space under the roof, this is different from working with ordinary walls consists in the fact that it is necessary to first cut blocks with different and complex shapes from foam plastic.

Installation of blocks under the roof

Installation of mounting umbrellas on foam plastic

For a more reliable connection of the insulation layer to the main wall, fastening “umbrellas”, also known as disc dowels, are used.

Step 1. Determine the length of the disc dowel you need. It consists of the thickness of the insulation layer (in this case it is 200 mm), the adhesive layer (15 mm), the length of the spacer part of the dowel (60 mm) and another 20 mm reserve. Also decide which of the diagrams shown in the image below will be used to mount the fasteners.

Disc dowel

Dowel fastening schemes

Step 2. Unpack the disc dowels and check whether the product parameters match those you need.

Unpacking the dowels

Step 3. Prepare a drill with a hole depth limiter, adjust the latter to the value you need.

Preparing the drill

Step 4. Mark the locations of the disc dowels and drill holes there.

Drilling holes

Step 5. Insert the foot of the dowel into the hole so that the head is flush with the surface of the foam. Then use a special attachment on the drill and tighten the spacer part of the fastener, and then close it with the protective cap.

The dowel leg is inserted into the hole

Twisting the spacer

In some disc dowels, the spacer element is not screwed in, but is hammered. You can see an example of how to work with them in the images below.

In some disc dowels, the spacer element is not screwed in, but is clogged

Hammering the spacer

Some builders believe that disc dowels in foam insulation are “cold bridges.” They deal with this problem in the following way: using a special cutter, they cut out a cylindrical recess in polystyrene foam, insert fasteners there and fix it. The disc dowel is then covered with the foam cap that was cut out earlier.

A cylindrical notch is cut

The dowel is covered with previously cut polystyrene foam

Video - Insulating the façade of a cottage with polystyrene foam

Insulation reinforcement

When installing polystyrene foam blocks, the process of insulating the walls from the outside is not completed - the material must be protected using reinforcing mesh and plaster mixture.

Step 1. Prepare a plaster-adhesive mixture from dry powder and water. Choose proportions based on the recipe printed on the package. Mix the solution with a construction mixer.

Mixture preparation process

Step 2. Start with windows and doors. Apply a thin layer of plaster-adhesive mixture to the inner surface of their openings and level it.

Applying a thin layer of mixture

Layer alignment

Step 3. Reinforcing mesh laid on the inner surface of the openings in one of the previous sections article, press it to the adhesive mixture and drown it in it. Smooth the entire top with a rectangular trowel.

The mesh is embedded in the mixture

Step 4. In exactly the same way as in the previous operation, press the mesh belonging to the previously installed profile to the adhesive layer and press it down.

The mesh of the previously installed profile is pressed

Step 5. Repeat the previous three steps on all sides of the window opening.

The same, but with other sides of the opening

Step 6. At the corners near the openings, apply strips of adhesive mixture at an angle of 45°. Then lay the reinforcing mesh on them and smooth it with a trowel. Such areas near the openings are called “kerchiefs”.

"Klondike"

Smoothing the reinforcing mesh

Step 7 Measure the corner profile of the required length. Apply a layer of adhesive mixture along the outer perimeter of the window, then lean the profile with mesh against it and the inner surface of the opening and smooth it with a rectangular trowel.

Profile trimming

Applying the adhesive mixture

Profile alignment

Smoothing the mesh

Step 8 Using the same principle, install corner profiles on other surfaces of the window opening.

The same, but on other surfaces of the window opening

Step 9 Attach a small rectangle or square of reinforcing mesh to the inner corners of the opening, straighten and smooth glue mixture.

The mesh is applied to the inner corner

Smoothing the mesh with mixture

Almost done

Step 10 Repeat steps two through nine for each individual window and door opening.

Step 11 Apply the adhesive solution around the perimeter of the house to the bottom of the insulation. Then attach the drip profile there. Install it so that there are no air cavities between it and the insulation. Control the process using a building level.

Applying the solution around the perimeter of the house on the lower part of the insulation

A drip profile is attached

Step 12 Apply another layer of plaster over the drip profile mesh and smooth it with a rectangular trowel.

Smoothing with a rectangular trowel

Step 13 Using the same principles as outlined above, install the corner profile - apply an adhesive layer, attach the product to it, press it into the mesh and smooth everything on top.

The adhesive layer is applied to the corner

Profile attached

The mesh is smoothed

Step 14 Now proceed to reinforce the entire surface of the walls. Make sections from a roll of mesh with a length corresponding to the height of the insulated walls of the house.

Cutting reinforcing mesh

Step 15 Apply a layer of plaster-adhesive mixture on top of the polystyrene foam and smooth it with a notched trowel.

Applying a plaster-adhesive mixture over foam plastic

Step 16 Place a reinforcing mesh sheet on top of the adhesive layer, press it down and cover it with another layer of mortar on top. Smooth out everything carefully - unevenness and cavities with air are unacceptable.

Laying reinforcing mesh

The mesh is smoothed with a solution

Step 17 Lay the next piece of mesh side by side in exactly the same way. There must be an overlap of at least 100 mm between it and the previous one.

The overlap must be at least 100 mm

Step 18 Let the adhesive mixture dry a little (but not completely!) and scrape off any irregularities.

Uneven surfaces are scraped off

Step 19 Using the rule, search for concavities in the adhesive layer applied over the insulation. Then level them out by adding a little more mixture in the right places.

Finding concavities using a rule

Leveling out unevenness

Step 20. Using the finally hardened adhesive mixture, level the surface again - using putty.

Puttying

Facade plaster on polystyrene foam

The easiest way to insulate a house is to cover it with polystyrene foam. The material is inexpensive, installation is easy to do on your own, and the energy-saving effect is obvious. And in order to protect such cladding from the harmful effects of the environment, you need to choose for it suitable covering. Read more here.

After the putty has hardened, the insulation of the walls from the outside with polystyrene foam can be considered complete. Next, all you have to do is apply the final decorative finish in accordance with your tastes and preferences.

How to insulate walls with foam plastic from the outside

If the walls of a house are not able to retain heat, then no ultra-modern heating systems will be able to warm it up. At low temperatures in the room, the humidity rises sharply and fungus and mold quickly develop, affecting not only things and furniture, but also the building itself. Experts say that up to 30% of heat is lost through walls, so you should take care of their insulation in a timely manner.

Features of working with foam plastic

Polystyrene foam is one of the most popular and inexpensive materials. It is an excellent heat insulator, is not afraid of moisture, does not rot and is easy to cut using simple tools. However, this material very quickly loses its properties under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so walls lined with foam plastic are never left open.

Another significant disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its flammability. That is why it is most often used in so-called wet façade systems when a layer of foam plastic is covered with a layer of plaster fixed to reinforcing mesh. This technology has gained great popularity due to its ease of finishing and low cost.

Important! Any tree is capable of absorbing and evaporating moisture, i.e. "breathe". Polystyrene foam has low vapor permeability, so for cladding wooden house does not apply. In this case, it is better to use glass or basalt wool.

Finishing the house with polystyrene foam followed by coating with plaster (wet facade system)

“Wet” façade system with a decorative layer of plaster

Consumables

To cover walls with foam plastic you will need:

Primer: saving is inappropriate here, it will not only reduce glue consumption and prevent the development of fungus, but will also strengthen the surface and improve adhesion;

Insulation: when laying polystyrene foam, part of the slab is used for trimming, so per 1 sq. m of facade will need about 1.05 sq. m. m of polystyrene foam; its thickness depends on the climate zone;

Dowels 6 mm for fastening the profile;

Umbrella dowels (“fungi”): for 1 sq. m will need 5-8 pcs.;

Basement (for the bottom of the wall) and corner profiles;

Reinforcing mesh: 1.35 sq. m per 1 sq. m of facade; It is better to take a mesh with a density of 140-160;

Knife for cutting foam;

Building level;

Putty knife;

Plaster: its consumption is indicated on the packaging, but it should be noted that it will take another 10% to process the slopes;

Paint for facade work;

Scaffolding, ladder, construction trestles or platforms.

Preparing the walls

Even perfectly styled thermal insulation material will not help to avoid heat loss in the presence of open air channels. Therefore, before starting work, you should carefully plaster or fill with foam all existing cracks. So that the solution can penetrate inside, they are first expanded to the required size.

To detect peeling sections of the wall, you should tap. The crumbling plaster, layers of soot and mold are removed with a metal brush. You can also use a special attachment for an angle grinder. To ensure that the foam lays flat, parts of the wall that are too protruding are knocked down. Grease stains are treated with a solvent. On painted oil paint On walls, to improve adhesion, it is better to make small notches with an ax.

Priming the walls

Concrete and brick walls are best treated with epoxy compounds for exterior use, which can penetrate deeply into the surface of the walls. For priming, you can also use mineral acrylic mixtures for building facades, which provide good adhesion.

Primer of walls

Glue selection

You can glue foam plastic to any walls: concrete, brick, plywood, etc. Before starting work, it is better

check the quality of the glue. To do this, coat a small sheet with it, press it against the wall for a few seconds and leave until completely dry. If, after drying, the foam does not come off the wall well and small pieces remain on it, then the glue is of high quality and was chosen correctly.

Important! You should carefully study the instructions for use: the glue must be frost and moisture resistant. To work with foam plastic, you can use any facade adhesives, silicone sealants or liquid nails. Polyurethane foam is used for tile joints. The composition for fastening foam plastic should not contain organic solvents (acetone, gasoline, ethers, etc.).

The most suitable glue is special composition for gluing foam plastic. There are several varieties of it:

1. Universal for foam, which is suitable for both gluing and reinforcement.

2. Glue for gluing. It has high plasticity and stickiness; when used, foam sheets do not slip during the drying process.

3. Adhesive for foam reinforcement: has high strength, but less ductility.

Bonding foam

Wall marking

Alignment at angles is not always possible, because they may have slight deviations. It is better to do the marking in the old fashioned way:

using plumb lines (beacons). A load is tied to a string suspended on a dowel at a distance of 5-7 mm from the wall. After it stops swinging, the string is secured.

If irregularities are found that prevent the string with the load from lying flat, they need to be knocked down. You can apply glue or construction foam. Transverse (horizontal) markings can be applied using a hydraulic level and strings.

Aligning the wall with beacons

Setting up a starting profile

To support the slabs, a metal profile is attached to the bottom of the wall. In addition, it is able to protect the foam from mice that like to live in the foam.

The profile size is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. Fastening is done with 6 mm dowels with washers at intervals of 30-40 cm. The corners of the profile are joined using the method of oblique cuts or using a corner connector.

Attaching the starting profile

Methods of applying glue

You can stick the sheet in the following ways:

For uneven walls, it is better to apply a fairly large layer of glue around the perimeter of the sheet, as well as in several places in its center;

Using a notched spatula, spread the glue in a small layer evenly over the entire sheet; in this way, foam plastic is glued to smooth walls;

Special adhesive for foam plastic, sold in cylinders, is applied around the perimeter and center of the sheet.

Foam insulation

Before starting work

walls must be dry. If you glue polystyrene foam onto damp walls that have not dried out after winter, the adhesive joint will not be strong. When working in summer heat differences between day and night temperatures are also not in the best possible way will affect the strength of the adhesive composition that has not yet dried.

All work should be carried out in the spring, about a week after the heating in the houses is turned off. You can glue foam plastic in the fall, when the ambient temperature drops to +17-18°C. You should not start work in warm, windy weather, as the glue will set too quickly.

It is not recommended to use foam that is too brittle: it is better to choose a material with a density of 20 kg/m3. The thermal insulation of denser sheets is less, so it is better not to use them for insulating external walls.

Finishing procedure You can start gluing the foam one day after applying the primer. The slabs are laid with the long side of the sheet down, starting from the bottom corner. The second row should be offset, as when laying bricks (see photo). To do this, the first sheets of odd rows adjacent to the corners are cut in half. The most convenient to use are slabs measuring 0.5×1 m and 5 cm thick.

The gaps between the sheets are sealed with foam. Too large gaps can be sealed with foam cuttings.

Styrofoam gluing scheme

Additional foam fixation

For this purpose, “umbrellas” are used - special dowels for foam plastic having a plastic head. Their length is selected taking into account the thickness of the slabs. Metal fastenings, which can damage fragile plastic, are not used. In addition, the metal has a different expansion coefficient.

Dowels for foam plastic To install dowels in a wall covered with foam plastic, holes of appropriate depth are made into which the dowels are inserted. They should fit into the foam by 1.5-2 mm.

Holes for dowels The “umbrellas” are fastened using an envelope: in the corners of the sheet and in the center. Thus, to secure each sheet you will need 5 dowels. The dowels must be included in concrete base to a depth of 50 mm, into a brick wall by 90 mm. For example, when the width of the foam is 8 cm, “umbrellas” measuring 13-17 cm are used. After inserting them, they are additionally tapped with a rubber hammer so that each of them is recessed into the foam by a couple of millimeters.

Creation of a decorative and protective layer

A day after laying the foam, it is leveled using a grater. The corners of the house are additionally protected using reinforced mesh with a corner. It is attached with glue and pressed tightly to the jamb with an angle spatula.

Foam grout Important! Walls insulated with foam plastic should not be left unfinished for a long time. Even after 2 weeks, ultraviolet rays can already damage it upper layer. If this does happen, the damaged surface is removed with a grater, and only then the wall is lined with a mesh.

Reinforced corner and corner spatula

Reinforcement of walls insulated with foam plastic is done using a mesh with 3-5 mm cells. The mesh is cut into strips of the required width. A special reinforcement adhesive is applied to the wall so that the mesh is buried in it. Its edges are secured last. After fixing the mesh to the wall with a spatula, it is leveled and excess glue is removed. Too much of it can lead to cracking.

Applying reinforced mesh The second layer of glue is applied only after the first has dried. After 3 days, the reinforced layer is primed, plastered, and then a layer of façade paint is applied to the wall.

External insulation of a building can significantly reduce energy losses and save on heating costs. This method requires the use of durable and moisture-resistant material. The cost of thermal insulation should not constitute a significant part of the construction budget. Experts recommend insulating walls with foam plastic, and the work is easy to do with your own hands. Expanded polystyrene boards are characterized by low thermal conductivity, strength and durability. In order for the installation of insulation to have a noticeable effect, it is necessary to strictly follow the installation technology.

Polystyrene foam is a universal insulation material; it can be used on any part of the external walls of a house from the foundation to the roof. It is a white slab with a pronounced granular structure. The closed gas-filled pores that form the basis of the material provide it with optimal performance characteristics:

• thermal conductivity – 0.038-0.042 W/m*K;
• density – 15-40 kg/m3;
• water absorption – 2% of volume;
• operating temperature – from -55º C to +75º C;
• vapor permeability coefficient – ​​0.05.

The material is environmentally friendly and has no toxic emissions. Its surface is not exposed to mold and fungi. The low weight of polymer products makes it easier to transport, do-it-yourself installation and load on the structure.

Polystyrene foam is produced with the following board parameters: 100×100 cm, 100×50 cm, thickness is 1-10 cm. For effective insulation outside walls will require material at least 4 cm thick.

The strength and durability of polystyrene foam depends on its density; the higher this indicator, the more reliable the insulation. External wall insulation involves an increased load in the form of a finishing layer of plaster, so slabs with a density of 25-35 kg/m3 will be required. The affordable price of expanded polystyrene has made it the most popular heat insulator in private housing construction.

Disadvantages of using foam plastic

When choosing which insulation to install on the outside of the walls, you need to study all the pros and cons. Foamed polystyrene boards have several disadvantages:

• high flammability class - G3-G4, the material is highly flammable and releases toxic gas when burned.
• damage to the structure by solvents and paint;
• attractive to rodents.

The high fire hazard is compensated by placing insulation under a layer of non-combustible mineral finishing or decorative siding.

Extruded polystyrene foam - differences and similarities of materials

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is a fine-pored insulation with a uniform and dense structure. This type of foam boards has better resistance to moisture, fire, and mechanical stress. The edges of sheets of individual brands of insulation are made with sampling. This design reduces the likelihood of cold bridges forming. The thickness of the slabs is 20-50 mm, they are recommended for installation under siding. The cost of EPS is 1.5-2 times higher than polystyrene foam, therefore, which type of insulation is better - each buyer decides individually.

Calculation of materials for thermal insulation

Polystyrene foam slabs have a convenient size of 1×1 m and 1×0.5 m, which means 1 sq. m and 0.5 sq. m respectively. The number of products must correspond to the area. It is better to add 10% to the calculated amount of materials for fitting. The size of the mesh for reinforcement is also equal to the area of ​​the walls of the house.

The foam is fastened with plastic dowels; each sheet will require 5 pieces. The amount of adhesive and plaster mixture depends on the thickness of the applied layer and the manufacturer. The packaging of the compositions always indicates the consumable mesh.

The procedure for insulating walls with foam plastic

Preparing the surface for thermal insulation

Universal foam insulation is suitable for installation on any surface of the house: brick, concrete, cinder block. Preparation of the wall surface is divided into several stages:

Installation of ebb tides and insulation of slopes

Secure the ebb to plastic window better before installing insulation. It is mounted so that the edge protrudes beyond finished wall by 3-4 cm. This placement protects the finishing of the house from flowing rainwater. At the same time, the window slopes are insulated. For this, a distance of 2-3 cm is provided. Facade heat insulation is not suitable due to its excessive thickness; it is necessary to use thinner material. The connection with the general insulation of the external walls will be facilitated by a 1 cm protrusion of the foam.

Methods for installing foam plastic

The technology of insulating walls with foam plastic from the outside offers several ways to fix the slabs on the walls with your own hands:

• Adhesive - a universal or special composition is used for gluing polystyrene foam, for example, Ceresit CM 83. The dry mixture is poured into a bucket with cold water and stirred with a construction mixer or drill with an attachment.
• Nailing - plastic dowels with a wide head are used, they are called “umbrellas”, “fungi” or disc dowels. A metal or polymer insert is hammered inside the fastener. One slab requires 5 pieces - 4 at the edges and 1 in the middle.
• Combined is the most reliable and widespread method; it combines the two previous methods.

The procedure for attaching dowels

Bonding foam

To do the work yourself you will need:

• spatula 80 mm;
• large spatula 200 mm;
• bucket for solution;
• mixer;
• level.

The special adhesive dry mixture Ceresit CM 83 is diluted in a bucket according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The consistency of the solution should not be liquid, otherwise the foam sheets will move down, and excessive thickness will complicate installation. The normal consistency can be selected after the first kneading. You should not mix a lot of solution at once; it may harden before it is completely used up.

Apply the mixture using two spatulas - the small one takes it from the bucket and places it on the large one. You can apply the glue to a polystyrene foam board or to the wall of a house. The first method is recommended if there is a flat surface without significant differences. The solution is applied in a dotted line along the perimeter of the slab, with a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge. Random patches of 6-8 pieces are placed in the central part. The disadvantage of this method is that the foam becomes heavier; installation of the entire insulation will require significant labor costs.

If the wall is crooked, the thermal insulation will not fit well. Unevenness can be corrected by applying the adhesive mixture directly to the insulated surface. Using this method, the thickness of the solution is changed, decreasing or increasing it in different areas.

Installation and joining of slabs

The process of insulating the external walls of a house with polystyrene foam begins with the installation of a starting strip. It is installed around the entire perimeter of the building using anchors or dowels. The horizontal position of the fastening is checked with a level. The profile will keep the insulation sheets from slipping until the adhesive mixture dries.

Do-it-yourself installation of slabs begins from the bottom of the corner of the house. After applying the adhesive mixture, the insulation is pressed against the wall and leveled. The plane is controlled by applying a level. The slabs are laid with bandaged seams using the bricklaying method. The joints must remain dry, without glue. Having filled the entire surface of the outer wall with insulation, it is left for 3 days to dry.

Fastening with plastic dowels

Disc dowels are a universal and convenient fastener. With their help, the foam is securely held on external walls, allowing you to apply a layer of plaster or install siding. The length of such a “fungus” should exceed the thickness of the insulation by 4-5 cm in order to ensure a strong fastening with load-bearing structure. To install a plastic dowel in the foam and the wall, a hole is drilled with a punch with a margin of 2 cm. The fastener is inserted without a nail and hammered flush with the surface of the thermal insulation. It is better to use a plastic core with insulation; it will eliminate the appearance of a cold bridge. If the nail protrudes above the dowel head, it must be cut off. “Mushrooms” are placed in two ways:

• on the surface of one slab.
• one in the center, the rest at the joints of adjacent sheets of foam.

Which scheme is better is up to everyone to decide for themselves, but experts recommend the second method. In this case, the fasteners press the joints, and the slabs fit more tightly to the wall.

Treatment of seams and fastening points

After nailing all the foam, inspect the joints of the plates; if there is a gap between them of more than 5 mm, it is filled with polyurethane foam. When the foam hardens, the protruding part is cut off. Holes of 2 cm or more are filled with foam scraps. When one of the foam plates protrudes at the joint, the protrusion is removed with a grater. When using EPS, the joints are corrected with a construction knife.

The joints of the slabs and the heads of the disc dowels are puttied with an adhesive mixture, trying to smooth out all the irregularities.

Insulation reinforcement

To reinforce the insulation of the external walls of the house, you will need a fiberglass mesh and a special mixture, for example, Ceresit CT 85. An adhesive mass is applied to the entire surface of the thermal insulation. The reinforcing mesh sheet is distributed over the surface without folds and embedded in the solution. Adjacent strips are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm, at the corners the mesh is wound up next wall. To strengthen the corners, the use of perforated metal corner. The solution is applied with a wide spatula in a layer of 2-3 mm. When applying the mesh in parts, leave a dry area of ​​up to 10 cm. It is coated with a reinforcing mixture when applied under the next piece of mesh. After waiting for the composition to dry (1-2 days), rub the surface with your own hands and apply a leveling layer.

Finishing of thermal insulation of external walls

Applying a decorative layer of plaster will help give your home an aesthetic appearance. Before finishing, the surface is treated with a primer. Next, paintable putty or decorative plaster is applied. After insulating the external walls, finishing material can be installed on them.

Features of insulating a brick wall under siding

Insulating a house with polystyrene foam is often done under metal or vinyl siding. In this case, the installation of heat-insulating boards occurs after installing a frame made of wood or a metal profile. The choice of material depends on climatic conditions - in dry conditions the tree will last long term, for wet conditions, a galvanized profile is preferable. The size of the lathing depends on the thickness of the insulation, usually it is 50 mm. The foam is fixed between the vertical guides using glue and dowels. The installation technology is similar to that described above. The joints are coated mortar. In cold regions, it is recommended to lay insulation in two layers.

A membrane is stretched over the thermal insulation layer, protecting it from getting wet and exposed to wind. An air gap created by stuffing the sheathing is left between it and the foam. On top of the protective sheet, you need to install the siding under the siding yourself. Its installation is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions.

In contact with

Insulating your home allows you to make life in it much more comfortable and save significant amounts on heating. Today, a huge number of different modern materials are produced that are perfect for insulating walls, floors and ceilings. However, most of them are quite expensive. Therefore, many owners of country private houses prefer to insulate their homes the old fashioned way - with mineral wool or polystyrene foam. At a low cost, these materials are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics and ease of installation. In this article we will look in detail at how to insulate a house with polystyrene foam.

Advantages of foamed plastic mass

The advantages of polystyrene foam include the following:

• A light weight. The slabs are 98% air.
• Cheapness. This material is much cheaper than all other insulation materials.
• Quite a long service life.
• Can be used to insulate a house both outside and inside.
• Easy to install.
• Versatility. You can insulate a house with polystyrene foam yourself in any case, regardless of what its walls are made of - wood, concrete or brick.

Flaws

The disadvantages of foam plastic include its fragility and shorter service life than modern materials. In addition, it is not recommended to use it to insulate the walls of houses if mice live in them. The fact is that rodents make passages in foamy materials and make holes. In this case, of course, the heat insulator loses some of its heat-preserving properties.

Preparation of materials

Before learning how to insulate a house with polystyrene foam, let’s figure out what materials should be prepared in advance. To perform insulation you will need to buy:

• Well sharpened knife.
• Hammer.
• Hammer.
• Putty knife.
• Reinforcing mesh.
• Dowels "fungi".
• Base strips. You can take a wide profile (according to the thickness of the foam) or bars.

Of course, you also need to know what foam to insulate your house with. For residential buildings, a material with a thickness of at least 40 mm is usually used. The best option would be ten-centimeter polystyrene foam. There are no restrictions regarding the length and width of the slabs. You can cut them using a regular knife.

Insulation of the house from the outside. Preparatory work

Most often, residential buildings are insulated from the outside. In this case, this procedure will be much more effective. It's all about the location of the dew point. When insulating from the outside, it will be located outside the walls. If you insulate a house from the inside, inside them. Therefore, first we will consider the method of insulating walls from the street side.

Do you want to efficiently insulate your house with polystyrene foam yourself? Then without preliminary preparation surfaces are indispensable! The latter must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and grease stains. If the walls are made of wood, they should be treated with antiseptic and fire-retardant compounds. On concrete walls, all protruding bumps should be knocked down and cracks, holes and chips should be sealed with cement mortar. Next, the surfaces are treated with a deep penetration primer.

If the walls of the house are new, smooth and even, there is no need to prime them. Very old, crumbling surfaces, as well as those made of porous concrete, processed twice. In particularly advanced cases, the walls are additionally plastered by adding PVA glue to the cement mortar.

Window insulation

The answer to the question of how to insulate a house with foam plastic also comes down to how to insulate windows and doors. It is with them that you need to start working on the cladding of the building. You should first arrange a window sill. It must protrude beyond the surface of the insulated walls by at least 4 cm. Slopes of windows and doors - for the purpose of fire safety- they are insulated not with polystyrene foam, but with strips of mineral wool.

Installation of the base profile

We’ll talk about how to insulate the facade of a house with polystyrene foam, or rather, about the method of installing sheets below. At the first stage you need to secure the base profile. In the future, it will serve as a support for the first row of insulation boards. Mount it using a building level strictly horizontally. First, holes are made in the wall (three for each meter of base length). The planks are attached to anchors or dowel-nails.

Kneading glue

You can start insulating a building only in dry weather, at a temperature of +5...+30 o C. The glue is mixed according to the instructions (indicated on the packaging). When making it, you should use a drill with a special attachment. Manual mixing will not give a high-quality, homogeneous composition. After the first kneading, the product is usually left for five minutes and thoroughly mixed again.

Gluing sheets

So, how to properly insulate a house with polystyrene foam? The glue can be applied both to the walls and to the slabs themselves. The second method is preferable. In this case, first spread the mixture around the perimeter of the slab at a distance of approximately 2 cm from the edges. You can't make continuous stripes. They should be intermittent. This is necessary for air to escape. Apply glue over the area of ​​the sheet in slaps in 10 cm increments. If the walls are treated with adhesive, it should be applied only under one sheet at a time. After coating, the foam is pressed tightly to the surface and held in this position for several seconds. Next, proceed to the installation of the second sheet. The polystyrene foam should be installed in rows and staggered. This means that each sheet of the top row must be installed offset relative to the pieces of the bottom. The slabs are laid out lengthwise along the entire building. When gluing, you must prevent glue from getting into the seams of the joints. This will reduce the quality of insulation. The seams are glued separately - on final stage.

Additional fixation

After gluing all the walls, wait about five days, after which the slabs are additionally fixed with plastic “fungi”. This step is one of the main answers to the question of how to properly insulate a wooden house, brick, block or concrete. Moreover, insulation is not done somehow, but efficiently. In the last three cases, holes for the “fungi” must be made in advance. When installing sheets on chopped walls or paving stones, you can drill them later, directly through the foam. The length of the plastic dowels should be such that at least 5-6 cm of their rod enters the wall. They are driven in with a hammer so that the head fits tightly to the slab and does not push through it. There must be at least two dowels for each sheet. And plus one fastener in each T-shaped joint.

Foam reinforcement

We found out how to insulate a house from the outside with polystyrene foam. However, to ensure that the slabs do not move and the plaster does not crumble, the papered walls must be reinforced. To do this, foam surfaces are coated with a half-centimeter layer of special glue. Apply the composition from top to bottom with a wide spatula, carefully leveling. The mesh (with a cell of 2.5x2.5 mm) is cut into strips and glued to the walls from top to bottom (like wallpaper). Since this material is quite thin, it can wrinkle during installation. Straighten the mesh with the same spatula. You need to smooth it out until it is completely submerged in the glue. The overlaps must be at least 5 cm horizontally and vertically. At the corners, the mesh is placed on the adjacent wall so that the overlap is at least 15 cm. After installing the reinforcement, the surface is covered with a second layer of mortar.

Finishing

If the facade of the house is to be painted, at the next stage it is treated with putty in two layers. If decorative plaster is used for decoration, this step can be skipped.

Insulating the house with polystyrene foam from the inside. Installation of slabs on walls

Sometimes it is not possible to insulate a house from the outside. For example, it is already sheathed with finishing material or there are some unheated units adjacent to it. outbuildings. Therefore, next we will consider how to insulate a house with polystyrene foam from the inside. The material is mounted using a wooden frame.

They simply attach bars of a size corresponding to the thickness of the foam to the walls. The slabs are mounted between them. They are attached to the walls with the same dowels - “fungi”. You can also additionally coat the slabs with glue. A vapor barrier film is stretched over the foam onto the frame (with foil inside the room). They fix it with blocks. Next, the material is mounted on the resulting counter-lattice.

We insulate the floor and ceilings

Insulating the floor with polystyrene foam is also easy. First, bars are packed onto it. Next, foam plastic slabs are laid between them. Then foam plates are inserted. A board is mounted on top of them, directly on the bars. The ceilings are also insulated from above. In this case, a vapor barrier film is attached to both the top and bottom of the foam boards. If the house does not have an attic, you have to insulate it from below. In this case, the plates are inserted into the frame.

What you need to know

There are several rules for insulating walls with foam plastic:

• On a flat surface it is better to use a hard one at the corners - a soft one.
• In wet weather, the house cannot be insulated either inside or outside. In the second case, it is also desirable that there is no wind.
• If the material is mounted in a frame, there must be an air gap between it and the finishing sheathing. That is why the vapor barrier is attached to the blocks. The thickness of the air layer depends entirely on their thickness. For residential premises it should be at least 3 cm. The temperature and humidity inside the house is always higher than outside. Therefore, condensation forms on the walls. When using a vapor barrier, moisture will settle on it. Passing through the air gap, the air simply dries it out, which is an additional guarantee of dryness, and therefore the effectiveness of the insulation.

So, you now know how to properly insulate a house with polystyrene foam. As you can see, this is completely easy. If you do everything correctly, according to technology, carefully and carefully, you can get very high-quality thermal insulation and significantly improve the performance characteristics of the building.

High-quality thermal insulation of a house helps not only to save money, but also to increase comfort in the home. it is possible both outside and inside, especially if funds for repairs are limited. There is an excellent 100% method of insulating walls from the inside with polystyrene foam + video instructions, after studying which it will not be difficult to do all the work yourself.

Advantages of polystyrene foam

There are quite a lot of thermal insulation materials, but polystyrene foam has been steadily in demand for more than one year due to its properties:

Polystyrene foam also has its disadvantages: it is damaged by mice, is highly flammable, and emits acrid smoke when burned. To minimize burnout of the thermal insulation layer in a fire, you should choose insulation with a high content of fire retardants and high density, and as exterior finishing use only non-flammable materials.

Conditions for insulating walls from the inside

There are certain conditions when it is possible to carry out internal thermal insulation and when it is not. If the insulation is not properly insulated, condensation appears on the walls, fungus develops under the insulation layer, and gradual destruction occurs. The formation of condensation indicates the location of the dew point, and its occurrence depends on the humidity and temperature in the house. The table will help you determine the dew point:

In addition, other factors are also important: the presence of a ventilation system, the quality of heating, the mode of operation of the home, the thickness of the load-bearing walls, and the region of residence.

Based on this, internal wall insulation can be performed under the following conditions:

• people live in the house permanently;
• the ventilation system fully meets established standards;
• heating works without failures;
• insulation is planned for all surfaces;
• the walls always remain dry.

In all other cases, only .

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

The process, although simple, requires careful preparation. First you need to calculate the number of foam sheets, prepare tools and Additional materials. Standard sizes sheets:

• width – 1 m and 0.5 m;
• length – 1 and 2 m;
• thickness - 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 mm.

For internal thermal insulation, foam plastic 1x0.5 m and 1x1 m, 50 mm thick, is best suited. Large sheets will still have to be cut, and transporting them is not very convenient. To calculate required amount material, the area of ​​the room must be divided by the area of ​​one slab and added 10%, since when cutting the insulation there will certainly be waste.

Additionally you will need:

Step 1: Clean the walls

The polystyrene foam is attached to a clean, dry and level wall, so the old coating is first dismantled. Wallpaper, decorative plaster, panels and other finishing are removed completely, but paint should be removed only if there are peelings or cracks. If the wall is smooth, completely intact, and the paint layer is very durable, you can immediately begin insulation.

Step 2. Alignment

After dismantling the covering, the walls are carefully inspected for damage. Cement mortar is used to fill deep grooves and cracks; smaller defects can be leveled. Be sure to check the surface with a level to make sure there are no irregularities.

After drying, the treated areas are rubbed down sandpaper, and then the entire wall is coated with anti-fungal properties. If the wall material is too porous, it is recommended to apply the primer in two layers.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Step 3. Installation of insulation under windows and radiators

The first to insulate problem areas is windows, radiators, door slopes.

First, they accurately measure the area to be insulated, and then transfer the measurements to the foam plastic. Cut the sheet according to the markings and apply it to the wall. When all the fragments are adjusted, you can begin installation. The glue is diluted with water according to the instructions, stirred well, and allowed to soak. The adhesive composition is applied to the foam plastic according to the following scheme:

The glue layer should be uniform and thin. After this, a fragment of insulation is applied to the corresponding section of the wall, leveled and pressed tightly with your hands. Next, the next fragment is attached until the entire area is covered with foam.

Step 4. Wall insulation

It is much easier to insulate open areas of the wall. They start from the bottom: a sheet of foam plastic is covered with glue, placed against the wall and leveled, then pressed tightly over the entire area.

Adjacent sheets are laid so that there are no gaps at the seams. Vertical joints must be shifted by half the sheet, that is, in a checkerboard pattern. The entire process is constantly monitored by level, otherwise distortions or unevenness in the horizontal plane may form. When the entire area is covered with polystyrene foam, you need to take a break for 2-3 days so that the glue dries completely.

Step 5. Sealing seams and fastening with dowels

If during the process of fastening the sheets there are gaps left at the joints, you will need polyurethane foam for sealing. You cannot use foam with toluene - it destroys the structure of the insulation. Cracks 4 cm wide or more are first filled with pieces of polystyrene foam, and then blown in with foam.

After 3 hours, excess foam from the treated joints is carefully cut off with a sharp knife, and the seams themselves are coated with glue. Next, each sheet is reinforced with mushroom dowels in 4-5 places. This combined fixation of the insulation will ensure maximum fit and reliability during operation.

Step 6. Reinforcement and plaster

The thermal insulation layer must be covered from external influence. The easiest way is to apply plaster. To do this, first strips are cut from the reinforcing material along the height of the wall with a small margin; The first strip is applied to the wall and applied with a spatula plaster mortar along the top edge so that it holds the mesh.

The layer is made up to 5 mm thick. After this, the solution is applied with a spatula from top to bottom and across the entire width of the strip. On the side where the adjacent strip will be attached, you need to leave a vertical protruding edge of the mesh 2 cm wide.

An important point: reinforcement is first carried out along the perimeter of door and window openings, behind radiators, at slopes and in corners, and only then on open areas of the wall. The edges of the strips are overlapped by 1 cm; the layer of plaster should be evenly distributed over the walls, completely covering the mesh.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Step 7: Finishing

The dry surface is treated with a special grater or sandpaper, periodically wetting the walls with water. The wall smoothed in this way is covered with 1-2 layers of finishing putty, then sanded, primed and painted.

If artistic plaster is used instead of paint, the puttying and sanding process can be skipped. At this point, the insulation of the walls inside the house is considered complete.

Video - 100% method of insulating walls from the inside with polystyrene foam + video instructions

Already in the middle of the last century, foam plastic was actively used in construction. Behind last years its popularity among DIYers and professionals has increased significantly. This material is today actively used as insulation for houses and buildings for various purposes.

It retains heat well, is lightweight and easy to install, and does not decompose under the influence of microorganisms. Among the advantages of polystyrene foam are environmental friendliness, versatility, savings in repair costs and long service life.

The need for external insulation with foam plastic

Sheathing a house with foam plastic can significantly reduce heat loss. You no longer have to spend as much money on heating in winter. And in the summer, the rooms become much cooler and more comfortable. If the temperature outside the window fluctuates in the off-season, the microclimate in the house will be better for living. External insulation is the most reasonable solution for several reasons.

If we compare this technology with the one that involves installing thermal insulation from the inside, it can be noted that the internal volume of the rooms is not reduced. With external insulation, it will not be located inside the wall or house. The problem expressed in the freezing of walls will be completely forgotten. The material at the base of the building will not get wet and will not collapse.

Sheathing a house with foam plastic is also justified for the reason that the main walls will have thermal inertia, which will stabilize the temperature inside the premises. During night frosts, the air will not be allowed to quickly cool down in the rooms.

Features of material selection

Before covering a house with polystyrene foam, you need to select the material. It is better to choose a canvas marked C-25, the density of which is mentioned in the name. Many consumers are wondering what it affects. The lower this indicator, the better the thermal insulation properties will be. To confirm this, just remember the school physics course, which talks about air - the best heat insulator.

Insulation with the mentioned density has closed cells filled with oxygen, which will prevent convection and reflect infrared radiation. But this belief should not be applied to foam plastic with a density of 15 kg/m3. This also applies to mineral wool. These insulation materials are less dense, but are not able to provide sufficient rigidity. It will be difficult to plaster an insulated facade without damaging the thermal insulation layer, and in the future it will be easy to dent the walls.

Insulation instructions: wall preparation

Sheathing a house with foam plastic is carried out in several stages. Before starting work, the walls are leveled. Depressions and protrusions are undesirable. If the façade is not level, then soft material may be broken. The optimal solution Preparing the walls will involve applying plaster to them. The size of the protrusions and depressions should not be more than 2 cm.

If the surface is flat, then it is necessary to inspect the texture of the wall; it must be rough to ensure adhesion to the glue. If the facade is painted with paint that has zero vapor permeability, then the layer must be cleaned and then covered with a primer.

If you decide to cover your house with polystyrene foam yourself, then at the preparation stage you need to run your hand along the facade. If there is a chalky mark left on the palm, then the surface must be primed. When, upon contact with a wall, its material crumbles, albeit slightly, the base should be cleaned with a brush and coated with a primer.

Regardless of the condition of the wall, this composition must be applied. It is better if the mixture has good penetration. This will strengthen the material, which is especially important if it is necessary to adhere the glue to the wall.

Preparing the foam

Covering the walls with foam plastic on the outside requires the preparation of insulation. This stage refers to extruded polystyrene foam, which is called penoplex. The technology differs from the sequence for foam plastic only in that in this case you have to deal with a smooth surface that needs to be made rough. The sheets must be pierced with a needle roller. Sometimes a notch is made on them using a stationery knife.

Setting up a profile

In order to support the insulation system from below, it is necessary to attach a profile in the form of a stand, which is also called a starting strip, to the facade. The width of this element should be equal to the thickness of the foam. Before starting work on the wall, it is necessary to mark it. For this you need to use a building level or a chalk rope.

A horizontal line is marked on the wall, along which the starting bar will be aligned. The profile is fixed using dowels with a washer; they are driven or screwed in every 400 mm. Starting strips are installed at the corners of the house corner connections made of plastic. These parts will act as compensators for temperature changes; they are necessary to dampen the linear expansion of the material.

Installation of insulation

Covering the facade with foam plastic at the next stage involves fastening the panels. It is optimal to use umbrella dowels or glue for this. At the bottom of the wall, horizontally, it is necessary to fix the starting profile, which will prevent the foam from sliding.

Next, glue is applied to the facade. The area to be treated should be equal to the perimeter of the sheet. It is also necessary to apply an adhesive composition to the back of the thermal insulation. The thickness of the cakes will help level out the depressions. The canvas is pressed against the wall, and then you can move on to attaching the next product. Horizontal sheets are glued with offset vertical seams. Four corners should not meet in one place.

It is necessary to install foam plastic from the bottom of the wall. The slab with applied glue is pressed well against the surface and held for several seconds. The second canvas is pressed and leveled.

Throughout the entire work, the wall should be checked for levelness using a building level. Standard joints between slabs are usually 3 mm. Excess glue protruding from the seams is carefully removed.

Mechanical fastening of sheets

After covering the facade with polystyrene foam with your own hands using glue has been completed, you need to leave the walls for 3 days. The purpose of this soak is to allow the glue to dry thoroughly. Then the sheets are fixed with dowels in the form of umbrellas. For one square meter there should be 5 fasteners. Their length should be such that they enter the main wall by 5 cm or more.

Dowels are also called fungi; they can be located in the center and along the edges. In the latter case, it is necessary to make a small indent. Alternative option The locations of the fasteners are the joining points of adjacent panels.

Three important rules to follow

When reading the instructions for covering a house with foam plastic, you must follow three important rules. One of them says: if gaps of more than 5 mm have formed between the canvases, then they should be filled with foam.

The second rule is that visible unevenness must be removed using a foam float.

The third rule is expressed in the fact that when fixing the insulation in two layers, the second is installed with overlapping seams. In this case, the seams of the first layer are not filled with foam.

Installation of reinforcing mesh

Fiberglass mesh serves as the basis for applying plaster. It must be selected based on density, which reaches 160 g/m2. Fastening should be carried out using glue, which is prepared on a cement base. The solution must be distributed in sections whose dimensions will be 1x1 m.

The reinforcing mesh is melted into the glue layer; for this you need to use a wide spatula. On top it is covered with another layer of solution. The surface should be as smooth as possible. In this case, some subtleties should be observed.

Horizontal strips of reinforcing material must have an overlap of 10 cm. The corners of the facade are reinforced with a plastic perforated corner; as an alternative solution, a galvanized corner can be used.

Insulation of a wooden house

Having looked at the photo of polystyrene foam for sheathing, you will understand that after carrying out the insulation work, it will be necessary to protect the walls and make them more aesthetically attractive. In case of wooden houses the technology for installing penoplex looks somewhat different. The technique involves the use frame structure. Installation is carried out between the sheathing elements. You can use glue as fasteners, but sometimes craftsmen make do with ordinary dowels.

The surface must be prepared by caulking the cracks and covering the material with protective substances. Next, the vapor barrier and frame elements are installed. The insulation is laid on glue; additionally, after it dries, it can be fixed with dowels.

At the final stage, a second layer of waterproofing should be laid, only then can you begin front trim. Covering a wooden house with foam plastic requires the installation of a frame for the reason that the described thermal insulation has poor vapor and moisture permeability. As a result, no air enters the room.

Finally

External insulation of a house with polystyrene foam is very effective. However, to achieve a positive result, it is necessary to comply with all the rules of technology. One of them is to ensure the rigidity of the layer at the corners. This applies to internal and external corners. The slabs in these places are laid using the toothed connection method according to the height of the building. On slopes and other difficult areas of the facade, additional fasteners can be used.