Insulate a private wooden house from the outside. High-quality insulation of a wooden house from the inside. Bulk heat insulators for insulating a wooden house from the outside

04.09.2016 0 Comments

The popularity of houses made of wood is only increasing every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of carrying out construction work, as well as with excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not at all exclude the advisability of insulation, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what? Advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances Doing this kind of work with your own hands will be discussed further.

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Insulation options

Insulation wooden house from the outside it has a lot of advantages:

the dimensions of the internal rooms remain unchanged;
absence of debris and dust indoors;
there is no need to rearrange furniture or perform any interior work;
additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to refine and transform appearance buildings.

Note! Improper performance of work on insulating a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and rot. wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have firmly established themselves on the market:

Mineral wool.
Styrofoam.
Penoplex or polystyrene.

All of them have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to take into account. A detailed examination of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, insulation features

Mineral wool is compressed particles artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and is not subject to deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used for insulating the walls of a wooden house.

The advantages of mineral wool can confidently include:

ease of installation;
environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
guarantees additional protection from exposure to fire;
democracy, affordability;
durability;
the structure does not deteriorate and does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
the material has a high melting point, therefore it is better than many in terms of fire safety.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although they are few:

necessity additional funds protection (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
It is hygroscopic and easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier is required.

When choosing mineral wool as insulation, take into account the following tips:

Before insulation, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
Completely eliminate the possibility of moisture penetration into the mineral wool. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then insulation and a layer of waterproofing.
The material must be mounted over half of the previous sheet of material; spaces between the elements are not allowed.
Additionally, you can limit the movement of mineral wool using anchors.
You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Polystyrene foam as insulation

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using polystyrene foam. Externally, it is a collection of a large number of airy, foamed plastic balls. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

To the advantages of this material relate:

simplicity and ease of installation;
lightness of the material;
dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
increased soundproofing qualities;
resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is its unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Insulating the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is no more difficult than with mineral wool. Quite the contrary, the sheet of material is easily transported and adjusted to the required dimensions by cutting. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

The material must be laid end-to-end.
To treat gaps at the joints of expanded polystyrene sheets, a diffusion membrane is used. It is attached to the surface using a stapler directly to the light.
The diffusion membrane must be a minimum of 10 cm wide to ensure complete isolation of the foam joints.
Use tape to connect the membrane pieces.
Despite the resistance of polystyrene foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are categorically against using polystyrene foam as a thermal insulator. Because when not proper organization work, it will accelerate the development of fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the wall of the structure and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Insulation with penoplex (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a brother of polystyrene foam. It also has a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene beads, but is technically superior to its predecessor.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

increased technical characteristics;
good surface strength;
does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
perfectly retains internal heat;
does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
ease of installation;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
will please for a long time services.

The disadvantages of penoplex are as follows:

The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene foam.
Necessity quality protection from ultraviolet exposure sun rays. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
Sensitive to solvents and other similar substances.
Easily damaged by rodents.

As for the insulation process, it is identical to polystyrene foam.

Note! Required condition insulation with penoplex - the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and wooden wall.

External log house insulation technology

Now let's look at how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, step by step:

Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them of dirt and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
Seal gaps, holes and cracks in the wall polyurethane foam. Once the foam has dried, cut off the remains with a sharp knife.
Damp walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
To lay the vapor barrier layer, make a sheathing of wooden slats. The pitch between the slats should be 1 m. The lathing should ensure the presence of ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of drops of moisture on the wood with subsequent rotting and damage to the wall surface.
Install vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing felt. Attach the vapor barrier to the slats, and seal the fastening points with tape to seal the coating.
Make a frame for the heat insulator, also using 40x100 mm wooden planks. Insulation will be installed in its grooves. Therefore, to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the slats should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wood planks are installed only on the edge.
Using a building level, ensure the evenness of the sheathing to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other defects.
Place insulation into the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
The next stage of the “pie” is laying a layer of waterproof and windproof membrane. It must be secured with nails or a construction stapler to wooden frame. Again, treat the joints with tape to seal them.
The final stage is the installation of decorative finishing on the facade of the house. Use siding, clapboard, brick or other building materials for these purposes.

U internal insulation there are many disadvantages, including costs First of all, highlight the formation of condensation. Therefore, your house, especially a wooden one, should be insulated from the outside - in this case, the internal temperature of the walls will drop very slowly. The location of the cold zone will be at inner part insulation, so it will not touch wooden walls.

It is better to combine home insulation with a vapor barrier material installed from the inside - this will not only prevent the penetration of cold from the outside, but will also prevent condensation from accumulating in the structure and destroying it. As a result, the house will be warm and the humidity level will always be normal.

Note! You should always leave a small air gap between the wooden wall and the insulation, otherwise mold will appear there and the structure will sooner or later collapse.

The modern building materials market offers a wide range of insulation materials, among which everyone can choose the appropriate option both in terms of quality and cost. The most popular of them today is mineral wool, so let's start with it.

The main advantage of this material is fire safety, which, in fact, makes it so in demand. Moreover, mineral wool provides good ventilation, prevents the formation of rot and fungi, and also conducts heat well.

Minuses:

the material easily loses its original shape;
it is short-lived - after just a year of use, almost half of its properties are lost.

The average cost of a cubic meter of mineral wool is approximately 1,500 rubles. This figure varies in one direction or another depending on the manufacturer and the technical characteristics of the material.

Another option that you can resort to when insulating a wooden house. The foam consists of many granules filled with air, which provides lightness and good thermal insulation.

Pros:

excellent sound insulation properties;
long service life;
ease of installation;
resistance to deformation and rotting;
high density;
resistance to temperature changes.

Minuses:

environmental unsafety;
tendency to ignite quickly.

But the main disadvantage of the material is that it cannot be used for insulation. wooden houses due to poor vapor permeability.

A square meter of polystyrene foam costs from 50 to 300 rubles, depending on the thickness and the company that produces the spruce.

Penoplex is also widely used for insulating buildings. It is produced by extrusion, resulting in the formation of a material of uniform consistency. The advantages of the material include:

environmental friendliness;
non-flammability;
safety;
ease of operation;
water-repellent characteristics (due to the fact that there are no micropores in the cells);
ability to withstand heavy physical exertion;
durability, rot resistance;
low thermal conductivity.

Minuses:

upon contact with solvents of organic origin, the material is destroyed;
difficulties arise when cutting and fitting;
Vapor tightness can sometimes be more of a disadvantage than a plus.

A cubic meter of penoplex costs approximately 4,000 rubles. Insulating a wooden house with such material is effective, but very expensive.

Note! If you want to insulate your home and protect it without spending big money, then it is recommended to pay attention to mineral wool. The technology below is based on the use of this material.

Isoplat is made from coniferous trees, and no chemical binders are added. Due to this, the slab does not dry out or deform over time. In addition, Izoplat is environmentally friendly and as effective as wood itself.

Pros:

thermal insulation: 12 mm slabs = 44 mm solid wood
sound insulation from -23 dB
elasticity: the slab fits tightly to the frame, breaking cold bridges at the joints
vapor permeability: slabs remove excess moisture from the wall, preventing the formation of fungus and mold in the house
ease of installation: The isoplat is pressed against the wall and nailed, a ventilated façade is installed on top and that’s it. No more materials or work will be required.
paraffin impregnation: protects walls from atmospheric humidity
100% environmentally friendly

Minuses:

- a higher price compared to other materials, but it will pay off, since Izoplat is guaranteed to “work” for more than 70 years and no alterations will be needed.

The first stage of work is to prepare necessary tools and building materials.

What will be required at work?

When insulating a house you will need:

mineral wool;
scotch;
wooden slats (250 mm thick);
nails;
polyethylene film;
staples;
boards, approximately 10x5mm;
slats, 5x3 cm;
waterproofing.

And now - directly to work.

First stage. Surface preparation

Upon completion of installation, the outer walls of the house will remain closed, so first they should be protected from harmful microorganisms and rot. For this purpose, special compounds are applied to the surface, which must be allowed to dry completely. Usually this takes a little time and after a few days you can begin installation.

Second phase. Vapor barrier

Wooden houses are good because they do not need a layer of air between the vapor barrier and the outer surface of the walls. For this reason, you can immediately attach plastic film. Wooden slats are nailed to a flat surface (approximately every meter), to which a layer of vapor barrier is attached with staples. This distance is necessary to ensure proper ventilation. Holes are made from below and above between the slats to eliminate the possibility of moisture accumulation and increase the intensity of air circulation.

The points at which the film is attached to the slats must be sealed with tape, which will protect the insulation from moisture penetration.

Third stage. Frame construction

Next you need to create a frame. The boards should be nailed, being installed “on edge”, in increments of 1.5-2 cm smaller than the width of the insulation board. By the way, mineral wool has sufficient rigidity to be placed in a frame without additional fasteners. In any case, the sheets of material will not slip.

Note! Professionals advise installing two layers of insulation at once in our climate zone. It is typical that the joints between the slabs of the first and second layers should not coincide.

Fourth stage. Waterproofing

The final stage of work is the installation of waterproofing, designed to protect the insulation from moisture penetration. The membrane is ideal for this - its special structure allows air access, thereby creating additional ventilation, and at the same time does not allow moisture to pass through to the mineral wool.

The waterproofing must be attached to the frame in the same way as a vapor barrier. This creates a 2-centimeter overlap at the joints. The joints themselves are taped with tape to ensure tightness.

Fifth stage. Ventilated facade

If all these procedures are followed, a ventilated facade is created in parallel. It is designed to circulate air flow between the waterproofing and the outer layer of surface finishing. For this reason, it is necessary to create an additional layer of frame. A similar sheathing is constructed, but this time the slats are used in a different size - 3x5 cm. A fine-mesh iron mesh is installed at the bottom of the frame, which will prevent the penetration of insects and small rodents.

Sixth stage. Facade finishing

What material will be used to decorate the facade depends entirely on the design features, financial capabilities and personal wishes of the owner. For example, to give your home an attractive appearance, you can:

cover with clapboard;
decorate it with facade tiles;
sheathe with boards;
build vinyl siding.

The most suitable option siding is considered, but when installing it you need to follow some rules.

First of all, when finishing siding you should work from the bottom up.
It is imperative to leave a gap of 1 cm between the panels of material.
To fix the siding, you must use nails or screws.

Possible installation options

Before you start insulating a wooden house, you need to find out what its load-bearing capacity. When constructing simple frame buildings, predominantly strip foundations are used. Consequently, in this case, it will be necessary to install an additional base, made in the form of a strip under the cladding. It is desirable that the base is directly connected to the foundation.

The insulating layer is attached to the frame, we have already talked about this.

Sometimes, when insulating, a hinged frame is used, for the manufacture of which perforated aluminum profiles were used. External walls can also be insulated lightweight materials, for example, pressed flax or wood chips. Of course, the effectiveness of these materials cannot be compared with mineral wool or penoplex.

As a conclusion

High-quality insulation materials are available today to every owner of a wooden house. If all the work is done correctly, the result will be not only a cozy atmosphere, but also significant budget savings. Moreover, such a house will look beautiful and presentable - in any case, the owner will have something to be proud of.

Video - Insulating the walls of a wooden house

At all times, wooden houses and log cabins are considered the most warm views individual housing, since natural wood, due to its porous internal structure, has high thermal insulation properties. However, despite this, constant heating of a large wooden house throughout winter period entails quite large expenses, especially considering that the price of natural gas and electricity is constantly increasing. Therefore, insulating wooden houses from the outside has now become very important.

In order to reduce heating costs and provide comfortable temperature inside your home, regardless of weather conditions, many owners of wooden houses resort to insulating the external facade of the building using modern heat-insulating materials.

Insulation of the facade of a wooden house

Features of external thermal insulation of a wooden house

In addition to energy-saving functions, such insulation of a wooden house from the outside under plaster helps protect the surface of the wood from the harmful effects of weather factors, and allows for finishing buildings with any façade paints for exterior use.

Expanded polystyrene panels are prone to destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so after installation they must be covered as soon as possible with a layer of decorative protective plaster.

Façade cleaning and preparation

Before you start insulation of an old wooden house from the outside, you need to do simple preparatory work, which are aimed at increasing the efficiency of thermal insulation and increasing the durability of a wooden building.

Using a stiff brush, the surface of the facade must be cleaned as much as possible from old dirt and dust, paying special attention to Special attention cracks, narrow places and depressions between logs. If necessary, you need to re-caulk the old interventional insulation.
If there is significant contamination and stubborn dirt, you must first wet the facade with water from a hose, and after cleaning, allow it to dry completely for several days.
Inspect carefully wooden facade, and if identified, eliminate foci of putrefactive bacteria, mold fungus or insect pests.
If significant cracks or cracks are found, they must be caulked with tow, a special cord or non-woven fabric made from natural plant fibers.
Finally, the walls of the house should be treated with antifungal impregnation or an antiseptic primer, which has the property of penetrating deeply between the wood fibers.

Method 1. Insulation using foam boards

Classic do-it-yourself insulation of a wooden house from the outside using panels of rigid polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is carried out on the same principle as thermal insulation brick facade, while the entire scope of work performed is as follows:

Using a special glue, the foam boards must be glued to the facade in such a way that their joints are not on the same line, but are staggered.
After the adhesive solution has dried, it is necessary to additionally secure each panel in five places (in the corners and in the center) using long galvanized self-tapping screws, using wide plastic washers.

If large gaps or cracks occur at the joints of the panels, they need to be sealed with narrow strips of polystyrene foam or blown out with foam.
Thus, the entire facade should be sewn up, after which the material for insulating a wooden house from the outside should be coated with a special construction adhesive, and then covered with a fiberglass reinforcing mesh.
After the glue has hardened and dried, the walls must be plastered and painted. facade paint for outdoor use in any suitable color.

In most casesinsulation of the base of a wooden house from the outsideusing polystyrene foam, it is performed in a similar way, however, after gluing the reinforcing mesh, it must be coated with a layer sand-cement mortar, which should have a thickness of about 20 millimeters.

Method 2. Mineral wool insulation technology

In order to complete proper insulation wooden house outside with panels made of mineral or basalt wool, you must first install vertical and horizontal sheathing made of timber or galvanized profile, the cross-section of which should be equal to the thickness of one layer of thermal insulation.

First of all, the entire area of the facade must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane, after which vertical bars must be secured from the roof to the base, keeping the distance between them 22-32 mm less than the width of the insulation.
The resulting vertical openings between the bars must be filled with mineral wool, without leaving air gaps between the plates.

In a similar way, horizontal beams must be nailed to the vertical sheathing, after which the space between them must also be closely filled with insulation boards.
After installation, the insulation for a wooden house from the outside must be covered with a special waterproofing film with micropores, which freely allows water vapor and air to pass from inside to outside and prevents the return of water.
Finally, a finishing finish is attached to the wooden frame. finishing material. Most often, metal or plastic siding is used for these purposes. plastic panels with imitation of various building materials.

To increase durability and protect against rotting, all vertical and horizontal sheathing bars, as well as others wooden elements structures, before installation they must be treated twice with antiseptic and antifungal impregnation.

Conclusion

Mineral wool can absorb moisture, which will lead to a decrease in its thermal insulation properties, therefore, when independently insulating a wooden house using this material, you need to leave small gaps in the lower and upper parts of the facade necessary for free air circulation.

To study in detail the technology for performing such work, it is recommended to watch the attached video in this article, or read similar articles that can be found on this site. If the reader has any comments or questions, I suggest discussing them in the comment form.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

Insulating a wooden house from the outside allows you not only to provide comfortable living conditions, but also to save on heating costs in winter time. However, this procedure must be carried out competently, since a violation of the technology can lead to the walls of the building becoming unusable very quickly. Therefore, below I will tell you in detail how external insulation is performed using two modern technologies.

Features of insulation

First of all, it should be noted that there are two technologies for external insulation of wooden houses:

hinged (ventilated) facade– the principle of this technology is to install a frame on the walls, which is subsequently covered with siding, clapboard or other finishing material. The insulation is located in the space between the wall and the finishing material.
This technology is the most preferable, since it eliminates wet work. In addition, the facade is stronger and more durable;
wet facade– in this case, the walls of the house are covered with insulation, after which they are plastered using a special technology.

Below I will tell you how to properly insulate a house in both cases.

Curtain facade

The installation process of a curtain façade includes several main stages:

Materials

First of all, let's look at how and how to insulate a wooden house from the outside using technology curtain façade. To do this you will need the following materials:

Materials	Features and purpose
Insulation	The optimal solution is mineral wool. I must say that people are often interested in whether it is possible to insulate the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam? In principle, the use of polystyrene foam is allowed, however, it should be taken into account that this material is quite flammable, and it does not allow steam to pass through, which will negatively affect the indoor microclimate. Therefore, it is better to overpay a little, but still use mineral wool for these purposes.
Frame stands	As a rule, beams or even boards are used. You can attach them to the wall using metal corners or brackets. It must be said that as an alternative to boards or timber, you can use a profile that is used for installing drywall.
Vapor barrier film	Protects the insulation from getting wet.
Finishing material	This can be lining, block house, siding or any other facade material.
Intercrown insulation	Usually jute tow is used, however, you can fill the gaps with special foam or other suitable materials.
Antiseptic for wood	Protects walls from the negative effects of moisture, rotting and other biological influences.

You can insulate the basement of your house with penoplex yourself. This material is quite durable, resistant to various negative influences, and also has the property of self-extinguishing in case of fire.

Facade preparation

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, do the following preparatory work:

dismantle all hanging elements that may interfere with work - these are ebbs, canopies, window sills, antennas, etc.;
after this, treat the walls with antiseptic impregnation;
To complete the work, it is necessary to fill all inter-crown cracks with insulation, if any.

You can start insulating a wooden house no less than a year after its construction, so that the structure has time to shrink.

Installation of frame insulation

The next stage is installation. The instructions look like this:

installation of the frame, start with the arrangement ventilation gap. To do this, attach boards about two centimeters thick to the walls. They can be positioned both vertically and horizontally, the main thing is that you can subsequently attach racks to them;
then attached to the boards vapor barrier film stapler. It must be overlapped and stretched so that a space is formed between it and the wall. It is advisable to glue the joints of the film with tape.
It must be said that the network offers many schemes for insulating walls without a ventilation gap, however, in this case, moisture can accumulate in the space between the wall and the insulation, which leads to negative consequences;
After this, the racks are installed. You should start with the installation of two outer posts, between which ropes are stretched, serving as beacons for the intermediate slats.
The outer racks are installed at the same distance from the wall, strictly vertically. If you use boards as racks, then secure them to the walls metal corners and self-tapping screws, as shown in the photo above. After this, install intermediate slats, which are located in increments of one or two centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool slabs.

Then, in the space between the racks, you should place thermal insulation material. The mats must fit tightly to each other and to the racks so that no gaps form in the insulation;

then a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame. As in the first case, it must be overlapped. You can fix the film using horizontal slats, which will additionally hold the insulation;

This completes the insulation of the facade with your own hands.

Frame covering

The final stage of work is covering the frame. As mentioned above, there are several finishing options. If you don’t know what material is best to cover the facade with, then focus primarily on cost, practicality, individual preferences, etc.

For example, lining is environmentally friendly material Moreover, it allows you to maintain the attractive appearance of a wooden house. Vinyl siding is more practical, easy to clean and does not require maintenance.

So, if you decide to use siding for cladding, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:

Before attaching the panels to the wall, you need to install a starting profile, which is located horizontally along the perimeter of the house. In this case, you should leave a distance from the ground or blind area to the profile of about 10 cm;
then corner profiles are installed at the corners of the house;
after this, the first row of panels is installed. The lower part of the siding is inserted into the starting profile, and the top is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws;
The whole house is sheathed according to this scheme;
before installation last panel the finishing profile should be fixed;
At the end of the work, additional elements are installed - slopes, ebbs, etc.

At this point, the siding of the façade is completed. It must be said that the lining is attached approximately according to the same principle, the only thing is that a profile is not used for its installation.

Wet facade

Installation process wet facade includes several main steps:

Preparation of materials

When choosing which insulation is best to insulate walls, in this case It is also better to give preference to mineral wool. Of course, in addition to insulation, you should purchase some other building materials:

glue for mineral wool;
umbrella dowels;
fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
perforated corners
decorative plaster;
primer;
facade paint.

After preparing all these materials, you can start working.

Wall insulation

As in the previous case, work begins with preparing the facade. This procedure is performed according to the scheme described above.

Then the walls are covered with mineral wool for plaster:

First of all, you should prepare the glue according to the instructions on the package;
then apply the glue to the mineral mats using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, the mortar should be applied with “blobs”, which will allow you to adjust the position of the slabs relative to the wall.

When gluing the mats, use a building level, and also stretch the beacons so that all the slabs in each row are located in the same plane;

All walls of the house are covered using this principle;
then the mineral wool is additionally fixed to the wall with umbrella dowels. To do this, drill holes in the wall directly through the insulation and hammer the dowels into them. Umbrella hats should be slightly recessed;

After this, you need to cover the window openings with mineral wool. This procedure is reminiscent of installing slopes - cut the cotton wool into panels of the required size and cover the openings with them. On window slopes Dowels are usually not installed, but they must be installed on door ones.
then you need to check the quality of the work performed by applying the rule to different sections of the walls. If there are bumps on the wall, they can be removed using a special grater;
then glue the perforated corners onto all the outer corners, using the same glue;
To complete the work, coat all the dowel heads with glue so that the facade ends up with a smooth surface.

When working with mineral wool, use products personal protection, since when it gets on the skin it causes irritation.

Reinforcement

The next stage is reinforcement. Essentially, this is rough plastering. It is carried out in the following sequence:

prepare the mesh by cutting it into sheets the right size. Please note that on the wall it should overlap by about 10 cm;
then cut the canvas for the slopes;
Next, glue the mesh to the slopes. To do this, glue should be applied even layer a few millimeters thick onto the surface of the mineral wool, then immediately apply the mesh. To “drown” the mesh in the solution, run a spatula over it from above, as shown in the photo above;
after reinforcing the slopes, the mesh is glued to the walls using the same principle;
After the surface has dried, the glue is applied evenly again thin layer. In this case, use a wide spatula to eliminate all existing unevenness on the surface of the walls. This procedure is performed on the same principle as puttying.

People often ask on forums how best to insulate an old wooden house? If the structure has lost its geometry, then best choice There will be brick cladding. In this case, mineral mats are laid between the facing wall and the wooden walls.

Decorative plastering is much easier and faster than reinforcement. The main thing is to follow a certain sequence of actions:

First of all, you need to treat the surface of the wall with a primer. To do this, pour the liquid into a tray and then apply it to the wall with a paint roller. To achieve maximum effect, the primer is applied in two layers;
Next, prepare the solution according to the instructions on the package;
then decorative plaster should be applied to the walls with a small or wide spatula. The layer should be as thin as possible;
when the plaster begins to set on the walls, it should be rubbed with a trowel, making circular or reciprocating movements with your hand. This will create a specific pattern.

It must be said that applying decorative plaster within one wall must be done in one go, otherwise the boundary along which you interrupted the work will not be visible on the wall.

Painting

Painting is also a simple and quick procedure:

start work by preparing the paint - the composition should be stirred and, if necessary, tinted;
then pour paint into the paint roller tray;
after that, dip the roller in the paint, squeeze it lightly on a special platform in the bath, and treat the wall with it;
Use a paint brush to touch up hard-to-reach areas;
After the wall surface has dried, apply a second layer of paint.

Conclusion

Insulating a wooden house from the outside, as we found out, can be done in two ways. However, in any case, in order to achieve a high-quality result, you must strictly follow the instructions outlined above.

See the video in this article for more information. If you encounter any difficulties during the work, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to help you.

September 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners for a lot decades and even often cross the century mark. But sooner or later the time comes when insulating a wooden house from the outside becomes a necessary measure, since, being under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the wall parts dry out and become covered with cracks, through which rooms cannot be opened. special labor the cold hits. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and this will pay off in the first winter.

By carrying out the exterior work, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the external design of the building.

But, before you buy material and start working, you need to find out which one modern insulation materials would be better suited For wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to install it.

Currently, the most popular materials for external insulation of wooden buildings are polystyrene foam in panels and various types of mineral wool, made in the form of mats or rolls. But besides them, in last years Sprayed insulating compounds, such as penoizol or ecowool, are increasingly being used, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulating layer, but also a decorative finish.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. He has good performance characteristics, provides the opportunity for significant savings on heating.

Expanded polystyrene is produced in panels of various thicknesses, sizes 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m, with a density from 15 to 40 kg/m³. For external insulation work, medium-sized material is usually used. density - order 25kg/m³ and thickness from 50 mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density polystyrene foam is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is lightweight, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, so it becomes a good barrier to both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and attach to the wall. It is resistant to temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation, and also almost does not absorb moisture, so it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, polystyrene foam also has its significant disadvantages:

low mechanical strength– the material breaks and crumbles quite easily, so after fixing it to the wall it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and decorative coating;
ordinary polystyrene foam cannot be called non-flammable, and when exposed to high temperatures it turns into a fluid burning mass and emits hazardous substances. human body substances. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered non-flammable, or rather self-extinguishing, and it is recommended to use it for insulating wooden buildings.
if you plan to attach the boards with glue, you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with expanded polystyrene, since some substances destroy this material.

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the lathing or directly on the plane of the walls using glue and “umbrella” (“fungi”) fasteners. The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house is built from timber and its walls have smooth surfaces, you can use both options, but it’s easier to get by with glue.

Before installing insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If any are found, then they need to be repaired. The process can be carried out different ways- this is plugging cracks with tow treated with lime or sealing modern materials, such as sealant or construction foam.
After this, the wooden surface must be treated - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold stains.
When the antiseptic has dried, you can begin installing the insulation. To ensure that it sticks well to the wall, you can lightly walk over its surface with an iron brush.
Installation of insulation begins from the bottom corner of the wall. For ease of fastening and evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width corresponding to the thickness of the material.

The slabs are coated with a solution of special construction adhesive, pointwise and along the edges, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be pressed tightly against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and secured to the wall, they must be sealed with polyurethane foam.

After the first row has been removed, subsequent rows are attached according to the system brickwork, in a dressing.

After waiting 3-4 days after installing the slabs to the wall, they must be secured using “fungi” fasteners. Each slab must be secured with 5-6 similar elements. The fastenings should have a leg length several centimeters greater than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the “fungus” should be selected with a 100 mm leg. When driving, the cap should enter the polystyrene foam plate flush with its surface.

Fixing the fastening - “fungus”

When all the insulation has been installed, you can begin to reinforce the polystyrene foam - this is done using fiberglass mesh.

At all corners of the building you need to install special corners with a mesh attached to them; they are secured with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

A wide mesh is fixed to the remaining surface, which is sold in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm, also on the adhesive mass. The serpyanka should seem to drown in glue. Having fixed it on the surface of polystyrene foam, they go over it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries, the wall needs to be coated primer mixture— decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will simply be nothing to secure the lining to. But light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles imitating brick or stone, can be attached to plastered walls.

find out detailed information with instructions on how to do it from our new article.

Since installation work according to the second option (on the lathing) is carried out in the same way as when insulating with mineral wool, they will be discussed below.

Prices for expanded polystyrene

expanded polystyrene

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not new insulation material, it is time-tested, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost any of its popularity.

One of the best insulation materials is mineral wool.

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers bonded together with special compounds. Three are produced different types mineral wool, and they differ in base material products are stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they have other differences - moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to certain external influence, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

Slag

This material is made from blast furnace slag, which, after processing, is drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.

When choosing insulation for a facade, you should immediately abandon this option, since it is hydroscopic. If moisture gets on it, it can cause mold to grow inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to metal profile, then an oxidation reaction may occur, since the slag contains residual acidity.

Slag wool has a fairly high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic it is also not entirely suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

Glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting glass melt, the length of the fibers of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is no more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it is light in weight and has good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, the packaging does not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and stronger. It not only insulates the walls well, but also provides excellent protection from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install between the sheathing bars.

The disadvantage is that when installing it, you need to carefully protect your eyes, face and hands, and respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they come into contact with fabrics, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

Stone wool

Basalt rocks serve as raw materials for the production of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, therefore it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Thanks to all its positive characteristics, it is excellent for insulating facades.

Basalt (stone) wool is a material with virtually no disadvantages

Basalt wool is available in the form of rolls or slabs; it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

This insulation does not generate dust or irritate the skin, and you can work with it even without protective equipment.

All of the above types of mineral wool are classified according to hardness. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for insulating facades. For such work, you need to choose material grade PZh-175 - this is a rigid slab, or PPZh -200, which means increased rigidity of the slab.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Installation of the insulating layer of mineral wool is carried out with lathing installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with polystyrene foam. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
In this case, a lathing made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which slab or roll insulation is fixed.

In order to achieve a better insulation effect and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is recommended to pre-fix a vapor barrier material under the sheathing.
It must be remembered that the sheathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be 5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This is required so that it fits tightly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be installed in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the installed bars - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

There are several ways to secure the sheathing, and which one to choose is up to the owner of the house, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
After installing the sheathing beams, insulation mats are laid between them, starting from the bottom row. To prevent them from slipping, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

In the event that it is used roll material, installation begins from the top, securing the top edge to the “fungi”. The remaining fastening elements will be installed later.
Then, the laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is often used to completely cover the entire wall, securing it to the bars with staples. Sometimes it is laid only on insulation, but the first option is preferable.

Next, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is secured with “fungi” to the wall.
Fixed on top of the sheathing decorative finishing- this can be siding or lining. The rules for installing such finishing are discussed separately in other publications.

A decorative coating is mounted on top of the sheathing - siding, block house or other materials

If the sheathing is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It also happens differently - with two layers of insulation. First, the first sheathing is made horizontally, then, after laying the first layer of insulation, a second sheathing is mounted along the beams, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool, everything is the same as described above.

Video: example of insulating walls with mineral wool

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

Sprayed insulation

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, recently they began to use liquid insulation, which are sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such insulation materials, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can be an excellent alternative to mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam

A wooden house covered with polyurethane foam can be considered protected for many years from the negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures.

Modern way thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam

However, this spraying method is not often used, since it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. However, it must be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches up to fifty years, while other insulation materials become unusable after more than short term. Therefore, having spent once on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to almost any external influences.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

— excellent adhesion when applied;

— lack of fastening elements;

— the material penetrates into all small holes and cracks in the wall, preventing cold air from penetrating inside the building;

—compatibility with any materials;

— formation of a seamless coating on the surface, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;

— the coating does not require repairs or renovations for many years;

— mold does not appear on it and it is not damaged by rodents.

Application of polyurethane foam

Any surface for installation of sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of the same size as the thickness of the spray layer planned to be installed are nailed onto its surface - these will become a kind of beacons. Using these guidelines, protruding frozen sections of foam material will be cut off.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure- more than 100 atmospheres. The master uses a pneumatic gun to spray the material on the surface of the wall. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2-3 seconds. The setting and beginning of hardening of polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve the necessary heat and sound insulation effects, the coating must be sprayed in three layers.

Sprayed polyurethane is divided into materials for internal and external use. For external application, use “Ecotermix 300”, “HEATLOK SOY”

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane to wooden walls from the inside of a house. The spraying process on the outside is practically no different.

Video: spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is an insulating and soundproofing material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its production is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid, which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is spraying ecowool

The environmental cleanliness of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds, petroleum products, or other substances that can emit fumes hazardous to human health.

When the material is applied to the surface, it fills all holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Additives from borax and boric acid are excellent antiseptics for insulation, preventing any forms of biological life from growing in its thickness.

Important positive quality ecowool for wooden buildings is its heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Application of an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a lath of the required size is attached to it - it will regulate the thickness of the spraying. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that the not completely hardened material does not slide out under its own weight.

To spray ecowool on walls, you need a special installation, the hopper of which is filled with dry material. There it is loosened and moistened, and applied to the surface through a special gun under pressure. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video: technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the materials and technologies described above, to date There are many other insulation materials. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy bills every day, then you can always find a material that meets all the criteria.

How to determine the required insulation thickness?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and the climatic characteristics of the region of residence.

Know required thickness insulation is important. Excessive “fur coat” can only damage a wooden house, and insufficient coat will not allow creating comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the design of the frame - it is important to know how far away from the wall its guides should be placed under the external one. Carrying out independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The point is What total heat transfer resistance of a multilayer wall structure R should not be less than calculated for a specific climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values are plotted on a map of the Russian Federation. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the frame itself, but also the interior decoration (if there is one or is planned, a layer of thermal insulation and external finishing facade (important - external finishing made according to the principle of a ventilated facade is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal resistance index is calculated.

For example, the following diagram can be given:

1 – wooden wall (timber or log). There is a nuance - the thickness of a log wall (on the right) may be slightly less than that of a timber wall. It is worth paying attention to this when taking measurements and further calculations.

2 – walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the premises are left unlined - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they can easily be covered with plasterboard (for painting or finishing with wallpaper), plywood, natural lining or wood composite panels, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - Thermal insulation layer - it is its thickness that must be determined.

The structure may have several layers. So, if the outside is provided with cladding without a ventilated gap, close to the insulation material (for example, using natural boards or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also shows:

4 — vapor permeable diffuse membrane.

5 – frame details (lathing).

6 – siding or lining, mounted according to the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). This kind of finishing, as already mentioned, no matter what material it is made of, will not make any noticeable contribution to the overall thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and their thermal conductivity coefficient.

Rn = Hn / λn

Hn— thickness of a specific layer.
λn— thermal conductivity coefficient of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form:

Hу = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3 … ) × λу

Well– thickness of insulation.
λу– thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected thermal insulation material.

Find odds for various materials It’s easy to find reference books – there’s a lot of it posted on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of existing layers is also not difficult.