The standard method of attaching a window sill is with adhesive. Products made of PVC, wood or chipboard are “planted” on “liquid nails” for these materials, and stone ones are placed on silicone sealant or cement glue. If the supporting platform has defects or a pronounced slope towards the room, it is leveled reinforced layer plasters or install the board on leveling dies and fill the space under it with polyurethane foam. However, when the window sill width is more than 200 mm, alternative installation is often required.
In houses with thin walls ( panel buildings 1980s and later) the supporting platform is small - 100–120 mm, and the adhesive fastening of a window sill with a width of more than 150–170 mm is not reliable enough (we do not consider cases where the structure has additional supports - legs, cabinets). You have to wedge the board window frame. The essence of the method is that the window sill is not pressed against the window, but placed under it to a depth of 10–40 mm, then leveled with pads and fixed with foam. This way you can secure a product made of plastic, wood-polymer composite and wood, ensuring high strength at small area contact with the wall (½ and even ⅓ of the width of the board). However, the insulation (foam) will have to be partially removed from under the bottom bar of the window frame, which will increase, so the method is unsuitable for stone window sills with high thermal conductivity.
In houses with thick walls (single-layer brick and block), glue is enough to securely fasten the window sill, but the wide “step” prevents air from the radiator from blowing through the glass, and the window often fogs up. To avoid this, it is advisable to provide ventilation gap: install the window sill on narrow dies (made of plastic, DSP, antiseptic wood) 20–30 mm high, directed perpendicular to the window, and leave a gap (again 20–30 mm) between it and the window, covering it with a narrow grille. Glue or polyurethane foam should be applied locally so as not to block the air channels, and the battery should be decorated with a convection screen that directs the flow of warm air into the ventilation gap.
In a bay window, one continuous window sill is often appropriate, rather than several under each window. The difficulty of installation lies in the need for precise adjustment of parts joined at oblique angles. When using standard wooden and plastic products can't do without miter saw or miter box. A more expensive option is to order a prefabricated structure made of wood or artificial stone. In this case, craftsmen from a specialized company will take accurate measurements and install the window sill so that the joints of the elements will be almost invisible to the eye.
In a glazed loggia, where the windows are installed on a thin parapet, there is practically no supporting platform. It is necessary to use metal consoles. They are suitable for any light window sills and can be quickly installed using screws and dowels.
METHODS OF INSTALLING A WIDE WINDOW SILL
Elements window design: 1 - window; 2 - stand profile; 3 - PVC window sill; 4 - polyurethane foam or glue; 5 - window sill made of wood or chipboard; 6 - plastic cover; 7 - support dies; 8 - ventilation grilles; 9 - bracket; 10 - low tide. Visualization: Vladimir Grigoriev/Burda Media
- The window sill should be installed before finishing the slopes, regardless of whether you plan to plaster or panel them.
- Although condensation rarely forms on modern windows, it is advisable to install a window sill with a slope of 1–3% towards the room in order to divert water from the frame and mounting seam, for example, accidentally spilled when watering flowers.
- Before applying glue, the brick or concrete surface should be cleaned of dust. When attached to cement composition the base must be primed, and if polyurethane foam is used, moistened to ensure complete polymerization of the material.
- If the edges of the old window sill were embedded in the wall, it makes sense to install the new one in the same way, ensuring the most durable fastening.
- The gap between the window sill and the window frame should be closed with a special self-adhesive petal seal or filled with silicone plumbing sealant.
Almost any modern renovation involves replacing windows, and few developers would think of leaving an old, oil-painted wooden or asbestos-cement window sill. Many people are familiar with the situation when the “window workers” finished their work and left, and the new window sill was left standing forlornly near the wall. What to do next? Looking for masters again?
The window sill is mandatory element modern interior. At the same time, he not only performs decorative function, not only serves as a stand for flowers and household appliances, but also actively participates in air exchange processes occurring near windows. Bottom protection window opening from possible condensation and mechanical damage, thermal insulation of one of the most problematic areas of external walls - this is the true, utilitarian purpose of a properly installed window sill.
How to choose a window sill
At the moment, it is not difficult to buy a window sill made of durable, resistant to sunlight and temperature changes, and stable in size. There are many options on the market, each of which has its own pros and cons. However, the main problems of choice come down more to implementation issues design solutions and the thickness of the wallet.
Due to the low cost, from 55 rubles per linear meter, and good technical characteristics, PVC window sills are most widely used. They have similar properties to plastic windows, as they are made from the same UV-resistant, moisture-proof materials. The multi-chamber structure with frequent bulkheads provides them with high compressive strength and excellent thermal insulation properties.
Light weight, ease of cutting and processing greatly facilitate the installation of plastic window sills. It is not a problem to choose the color of the finished product, including wood and marble imitation. The color can be transmitted either “in bulk”, for example brown, or in the form of a film according to the RAL catalogue. Most often, such window sills are made to match window profile. The front surface of the PVC window sill has a matte texture or has varnish coating. It is easy to choose a plastic window sill that is suitable in size for almost any specific case. In large construction stores products are often available with a thickness of 18-22 mm and a width of 100 to 600 mm. The strips come in lengths of 4 or 6 meters, but, as a rule, you can order them to be cut on site, or buy a window sill of any length. The main disadvantages of plastic window sills can be considered poor resistance to local damage: scratches, chips, punctures. They are practically beyond restoration.
Window sills made of MDF and chipboard can be laminated upper layer, be covered with cork or wood veneer. At a low price, they perfectly imitate expensive materials, including natural stone. Such products have good performance characteristics and thermal insulation properties. They are fairly easy to cut and install.
If the protective coating of MDF and chipboard window sills is not damaged, then they are not exposed to moisture, do not warp or swell. Laminated window sills are difficult to scratch. Their cost per linear meter can range from 150 to 1200 rubles for a width of 30 cm.
Window sills made of coniferous and hardwood are ideally suited to wooden windows, have a very beautiful texture, visible under a transparent protective coating, but can also be painted in any color. They are also a good thermal insulator.
Depending on the properties of the wood used, they have a certain degree of high bending strength, resistance to scratches and dents, and they are also easy to repair. The thickness of wooden window sills is most often about 40 mm. Among the disadvantages, we can note the need to ensure their waterproofing, which completely depends on the condition and quality of the protective and decorative coating, which requires periodic updating. Prices for products made from oak, hornbeam, beech, cherry, and ash can hardly be called affordable. A high-quality window sill made of solid pine will cost at least 1000 rubles per linear meter, larch - 1800, beech - 3000, oak - 5000.
Window sills made of natural stone - marble, granite or onyx are perhaps the most expensive of all those on the market (from 3,000 rubles per linear meter), but their classic beauty, sophistication and prestige leaves no one indifferent. The assets of such products include expressive texture, the ability to choose color, size, shape, style of processing corners and edges. Stone window sills are not afraid of water and temperature changes, but to some extent they are susceptible to contamination due to porosity natural materials. Being quite fragile, natural stone products can be easily repaired. Their heavy weight, as well as difficulty in processing, make their installation somewhat difficult. Window sills made of natural stone do not have thermal insulation properties.
Models of window sills made of artificial stone have operational advantages - resistance to chemical pollution and relatively low thermal conductivity. Troubles (in the low price category of such products) can be caused by scratches on the front surface and its fading. Of course, they are cheaper than analogues made from natural materials.
How to determine the required window sill dimensions
In order for a window sill to serve for a long time, be comfortable and functional, it must not only be installed correctly, but also its dimensions must be correctly calculated. In some cases, it makes sense to make a window sill in a factory according to exact dimensions. This problem is especially serious when working with stone, since it is quite difficult to process, and it will be very nice if you don’t need to adjust anything to the location. Window sills made of MDF and chipboard can be ordered with a fully processed edge, which also should not be cut, as it reliably protects the product from moisture.
The length of the finished product should be greater than the width of the window so that the window sill fits into the walls. Typically, 30 to 50 mm are allowed beyond the line of vertical slopes on each side. For example, if the window width is 1000 mm, then it would be logical to order the window sill 100 mm larger, 20 of which will be used for the light reversal of the slopes, 80 - for the side outlets (40 mm each). In the area of the balcony block, one side of the window sill crashes into the wall, and near the door it should hang slightly, about 10 mm, over the short vertical slope.
The width of the window sill is mainly determined by the depth of the window opening. As a rule, the overhang of the window sill is about 30-50 mm from the wall. This size is explained by the fact that it is too wide window sill may interfere with the free circulation of warm air coming from heating radiators, which can lead to the formation of condensation on the surface of double-glazed windows and side slopes. With a large overhang, the bending strength of the structure is significantly reduced.
To correctly determine the desired width of the window sill, it is necessary to complete the basic finishing of the outer wall - plaster, drywall. It will be enough to have installed beacons or a metal frame. Measurements are taken with a tape measure from the window to a cord stretched in the plane of the wall or a rule installed across the opening.
Attention! It should be noted that the window sill, about 10 mm, fits under the frame, resting against the installation strip of the plastic window or a quarter of the wooden profile.
It can be especially difficult to measure window sills of non-standard shape, such as on rounded walls, bay windows, and kitchen window sills and countertops. Sometimes the window is unfolded in the opening, then if you want to have an equally protruding window sill cornice, its width will have to be made uneven. In all these cases, we recommend inviting specialists from the organization from which you will order them to make templates and patterns. The most accurate, flawless products are obtained from measurements made using geodetic equipment such as a tacheometer. A tape measure and a cardboard sheet do not always help.
The main principle is simple: “measure seven times, order once.”
When to install a window sill
If you decide to simply change the windows while maintaining all interior decoration premises, then there is nothing special to wait - you can start immediately after the polyurethane foam has dried.
But in the case of major repairs the matter is a little more complicated. The reason for this is the vulnerability of the surfaces of an expensive product installed prematurely. In the process of carrying out extensive repair and construction work, when there are a large number of workers at the site, guests from contractors (air conditioners, installers security systems, stretch ceiling installers, furniture assemblers...), it is extremely difficult to keep the window sill safe and sound. A flat horizontal surface, like a magnet, attracts to place a tool on it, small or not very small, construction material, put down a cup of coffee, step on your foot to reach high ceiling. As a result, the window sill was replaced and the slopes were redone due to “from nowhere” scratches, dents, chips, and persistent chemical stains.
Many practicing builders have come to the conclusion that the installation of a window sill must be done at the very last moment, immediately before finishing. Naturally, by this moment the entire complex must be completed preparatory work, including the walls and slopes being mounted and even plastered.
How to prepare a place for installing a window sill
Depending on the type of product, its material and thickness, as well as the chosen fastening method, we will prepare the base. The first step is to remove all loose, protruding elements of the wall on which the window sill will rest, these are loose bricks, crumbling plaster, installation wedges, fasteners, embedded parts. If during de installation work formed through holes outside or into enclosing structures, it is recommended to foam them.
You also need to prepare grooves in the wall for the entry of the window sill; here you cannot do without the use of a small grinder and a hammer drill. If the slopes are sheathed with plasterboard or plastered, then their plane must be interrupted no lower than the window profile in order to form a technological niche.
Next, you should restore the masonry, and pour a flat area from a durable moisture-resistant mortar using the beacons to a given height. To install a window sill on polyurethane foam, it is advisable to have a gap of about 20 mm from the bottom of the product to the top of the installation area, this is so that a tube can be inserted into the area of the window frame mounting gun. For installing a heavy stone window sill on a layer of most special adhesives only 5 mm will be required, that is, from the bottom of the window the platform should be lowered by 35 mm, where the thickness of the window sill will be 30 mm.
If outer wall covered with plasterboard metal frame, the horizontal jumper running under the window should be positioned at the correct height. A common mistake made by novice installers of drywall systems is installing it too high.
A very important point in the preparatory work is checking the evenness of the lower edge of the window block. Certain problems are caused by poorly manufactured or incorrectly installed PVC windows. Very often, at the junction of the vertical and lower horizontal profiles there are burrs that make it impossible to press the window sill tightly to the window - they need to be cut off with a knife. Another common defect is the shape of the lower profile in the form of one or several arcs, curved upward with their middle. Its presence can be easily checked by stretching a thread along the bottom edge of the window from corner to corner. If a thin plastic window sill can be quite easily pressed against the window with wedges or foam, then with rigid products made from other materials everything is much more complicated, they only emphasize all the unevenness. The result is very unsightly cracks that will have to be sealed with all kinds of sealants. The reality is that even in new luxury buildings it is necessary to repair the plastic ones installed by the builders. window blocks- cut out the foam from under the window, remove wedges and fasteners, dismantle the double-glazed window and different ways align the PVC profile. Sometimes the matter ends with a complete reinstallation or replacement of defective windows.
How to install and secure a window sill
No matter how accurately we produce preliminary measurements, before installation, the window sill often has to be trimmed a little, especially where it enters the walls. Wood and MDF, Chipboard is better Just cut with a jigsaw and a metal file, but a plastic or stone window sill with a grinder with a diamond blade.
To press the window sill tightly to the window, you need to use wooden or plastic wedges. They are prepared based on the thickness of the product and installed near the window lintel with an interval of 400-500 mm. Some craftsmen prefer to glue them to the base in advance so that they do not move during installation. The correct selection of wedges is checked by dry fitting the window sill - the product should fit tightly.
The installation profile (window plate) should be thoroughly coated with silicone to seal the junction; the protruding mass can be subsequently trimmed off. It is also recommended to cover the end parts of the window sill made of MDF or chipboard with a layer of sealant, especially if there is damage to the protective coating.
The window sill is installed in its place and centered relative to the axis of the window or the lines of the side slopes. Wedges are also installed under the front part, adjusting the window sill according to the level. In most cases, the window sill cornice is made below its base, pressed 2-3 mm against the window, so that moisture does not accumulate near the junction.
A window sill made of MDF, chipboard, wood, or plastic can be additionally fixed by screwing it with long self-tapping screws through the window installation profile; to do this, you need to remove the outer ebb.
To prevent the expanding foam from pushing the window sill up, it is necessary to install 2-3 spacers running from the product to the top of the slope. We recommend installing level surfaces along the entire length of the window sill and on top. wooden beams to distribute the pressure from the spacers. They can be easily adjusted using wedges. Options for placing a load from scrap materials on the windowsill sometimes play a cruel joke on the craftsmen, and it all ends with re-installation.
Now you can foam the space under the window sill. The foam should be applied sparingly, but evenly, without gaps, not forgetting its ability to expand greatly. You need to carefully fill with foam the places where the side parts of the window sill enter the wall, keep in mind - this important element thermal insulation.
It is not recommended to install stone window sills on foam, as there are known cases where, when it expanded, a marble product was broken along the veins. It is better to install them using special glue, for example, SM117, SM115 and the like. For window sills made of onyx and light marble, it is better to use white glue, which will not leave marks if it accidentally gets on the front surface.
Comb with tooth the right size, about 6-8 mm, adhesive composition, preferably in one continuous movement, evenly leveled over a pre-prepared base. The notched trowel should be held as vertically as possible - this is the only way the height of the ridges will be the same. Using an even spatula, the back side of the stone window sill is covered with a thin layer of glue and installed in the design position.
If the window sill has a large overhang, then special corner brackets are used to secure it. They are secured with one shoulder on load-bearing wall with an interval of up to 500 mm, but not less than three pieces per product. Often this part of the bracket is recessed into the cladding and sealed with mortars. The window sill from below is screwed to the consoles using short cylindrical screws.
Once the foam or glue has completely dried, it is usually ready the next day, you can remove the spacers, install the end caps and begin sealing the joints.
How to protect a window sill from damage
The first thing you need to pay attention to is the correct storage of window sills on site. It is better to store products made of wood, PVC, chipboard in pairs, with their front surfaces facing each other, between which soft pads should be inserted. Stone window sills are stored in a vertical position; they should stand edge-on on two blocks, leaning against the wall at a slight angle.
Before installing any window sill, it must be covered with sheet polyethylene using masking tape, or a special film that does not leave adhesive marks. Remember that there is still a lot of painting and installation work ahead, and this is a danger of contamination and mechanical deformation.
Attention! Factory protective film must be removed before installing the window sill in order to be able to check the quality and integrity of the front covering.
Window sills made of natural stone are able to absorb various substances with the formation of stains that are difficult to remove, so after installation they are immediately treated with protective compounds that close the pores of the front surface.
After installation, strips of plasterboard, gypsum fiber board or other similar materials, precisely cut along the visible contour of the window sill, should be laid on top of the film.
It is recommended to preserve marble products with a protective wooden shield, Special attention paying attention to the cornice of the product. The hanging end is the most vulnerable place; it is covered with a bar sewn to the front. The casing must be securely fastened in the opening and rest on the polished surface through soft pads.
One must not lose sight of another very important nuance that directly affects the correct functioning and durability of the window sill - the distance between the bottom of the window sill and the heating radiator should not be less than 100 mm.
Turishchev Anton, rmnt.ru
« Even from small window sill you can create a great miracle! - I heard in response to my enthusiastic expression from a friend who was visiting. Irina recently finished renovations and the day before yesterday she gathered all her family and friends for a housewarming party.
The apartment was not new and quite small in area. There wasn’t much money for furnishings and Ira decided to limit herself to only the most basic and functional, but what I saw as a result looked as if the apartment had been supervised by a talented designer. However, this was entirely the merit of my friend.
Window sill installation
I would never have thought before that a simple window sill could become one of the most comfortable and cozy corners in the house for work or relaxation. It can also be used as desk in the children's room, a bar counter on the balcony, worktop or a dining table in the kitchen, a dressing table in the bedroom and that's not all full list its possible transformations.
Wherever you install it, it will help save space, allow you to conveniently use daylight and make the interior more interesting.
Editorial "So simple!" I have prepared for you 24 ways to turn window seat to the highlight of the interior. The best interior trick I've ever seen!
- From the window sill in the kitchen you can make a chic tabletop. This technique will help save space and add additional work surface.
By the way, this perfect solution for placing a sink. Agree that washing dishes will become a little more enjoyable when you can be distracted by the view from the window.
- And the window sill can act as a full-fledged dining table. This idea is especially relevant for small spaces.
- The main requirement for a window sill is height. It should be somewhere between 83–93 cm.
To create a window sill-tabletop, both natural and artificial stone, chipboard or composite material are used.
- If you have a large window in your kitchen, then instead of a window sill you can install a bar counter. It's stylish and functional solution Great suitable for small apartments
, where every centimeter of space is valuable.
- And who said that a window sill can only be rectangular! What can you say about such a figured tabletop-window sill?
- Another interesting solution.
- A window sill-bench can become a child's favorite place if you apply this idea in a children's room.
And in order for the window sill-bench to serve as a comfortable place to sit, it is necessary to accurately determine its material and depth. To do this, you should opt for a material made of natural wood and a depth of at least 30 cm.
- A window sill bench is an excellent solution for both arrangement small apartments
, and for owners of spacious apartments. This resting place will surely become the most favorite place in the house for all household members and even pets!
- The kitchen is not the only room in the house where you can enjoy breakfast or soft drinks, admiring the view from the window. Perhaps you will like this option even more - a bar counter on the balcony from the window sill, what could be better!
- A dressing table, work table or desk-window sill will also give you the benefit of natural light.
- And this is just a dream place for any book lover!
There are a lot of people here during the day sunlight, and in the evening you can lower the curtains and light up Wall Light. If you organize shelves nearby and place your favorite books on them, the reading corner will turn into your own home library.
- A window sill table in a nursery is an excellent solution to save space, especially if you have more than one child.
As you can see, the role window sill in the house often underestimated! But he can bring you a lot more benefit than just being a stand for indoor plants or a place to store souvenirs. With proper design, a window sill can radically transform the interior of your home and become one of the most comfortable and cozy corners for work or relaxation.
Nastya does yoga and loves traveling. Fashion, architecture and everything beautiful - that’s what a girl’s heart strives for! Anastasia is an interior designer and also makes unique floral-themed jewelry. She dreams of living in France, is learning the language and is keenly interested in the culture of this country. He believes that a person needs to learn something new all his life. Anastasia's favorite book is “Eat, Pray, Love” by Elizabeth Gilbert.
Often the window sill is undeservedly left without attention. But it can become a beautiful and functional addition to the interior. For example, turn into bookshelf, a place to relax or convenient system storage We have collected many creative and quite accessible ideas for any interior that will help you use your window sill wisely.
1. Reading space
Sometimes it's nice to spend time reading your favorite book. Don't rush anywhere and don't fuss. It is best to sit by the window, as daylight is the most favorable for this process. And in this case, most suitable place will become a window sill.
A wide, strong window sill has every chance of becoming a comfortable relaxation area. It would be a good idea to equip the tabletop itself with a soft floor cushion and surround it with decorative counterparts. In the cold season, a blanket or fluffy skin would be useful here.
If the window sill is not suitable for sitting, then it can be used for other purposes. For example, put books on it, and if there is no heating radiator below, then make comfortable shelves under the window sill and put the entire book collection on them.
4. Storage systems
It's not just books that can be stored under the windowsill. Small drawers, which you can also make yourself or order from a carpentry workshop, will fit perfectly here. They are convenient for hiding seasonal items, shoes, a first aid kit, tools - everything that needs to be put out of sight.
5. Workplace
Another way to functionally use a window sill is to arrange on it workplace. Standard width surface allows you to easily place a laptop, a lamp, a notepad and a stand for pencils and pens on it. The chair for such a home office needs to be selected according to the height of the window sill so that it is comfortable to work behind it. If the tabletop is high, then it would be appropriate to choose bar stool.
6. Place for decorative display
When there are enough storage systems in the interior, there is a place for relaxation, reading and work, then the window sill is quite suitable for placing a decorative display. At any time of the year, freshly cut flowers will be a good way to refresh the interior, which can even be placed in simple transparent jars or bottles.Just 20 years ago, most ordinary people did not wonder what kind of window sills were installed in their apartment. Whatever the builders installed, that’s how they stand. Often these were reinforced concrete slabs with poorly processed edges (at best - wood concrete). Over time, thrifty tenants replaced such window sills with wooden ones, filling the voids with foam rubber, or, at worst, with rags, and sealing the cracks with the same cement-sand mortar.
Then came the era metal-plastic windows. And along with it came plastic window sills, polyurethane foam, and gypsum plaster compounds for putty. Yes, yes, a plastic window sill has become an almost uncontested addition to the same window. In most cases, options were not even considered, and indeed were not offered either.
Or they were almost never offered. Because at the same time, we were not close, but we still became acquainted with artificial stone countertops and learned technologies for producing polymer concrete. And natural stone in slabs (English slab - slab, plate, large piece) has become more affordable with the advent of modern stone processing equipment in our production. Today it is quite realistic to talk about the presence of choice on the market of window sills or materials for window sills. We will try to comprehensively consider this issue, analyzing all the pros and cons of the various options.
Types of window sills and their features - what to make a window sill from?
Here we immediately answer the most frequently asked question on this topic: which window sills are best for plastic windows. For plastic windows, plastic window sills are better.
- Firstly, homogeneous materials have the same technical characteristics and chemical composition, which means they have the same expansion coefficients, thermal conductivity and other properties.
- Secondly, the same chemicals and materials are used for their maintenance and repair, and their service life is approximately the same.
- Thirdly, they simply look organic in combination with each other.
There are still arguments in defense of this postulate, but even these are enough to come to this conclusion.
But, one more thing: these are the window sills that are better “for windows.” But for a person, for a consumer, this is not a fact. It is definitely better for the user that the window sill meets the requirements that he puts forward. But plastic window sills cannot always meet them: many of them cannot withstand the weight of a large flower pot, you cannot place a hot frying pan on them, they scratch very easily, etc. Although, if we talk about aesthetics and design, then in this regard they are able to cope with the highest requirements.
Moreover, they are in absolute compliance with the color and texture base of the lamination of metal-plastic windows.
- Plastic window sills (PVC window sills)– the most common installation option. Cost of 1 p.m. 100 mm of metal-plastic window sill today ranges from 80 to 540 rubles/m.p. Agree: there is plenty to choose from. Both the price and quality of plastic window sills vary radically. We would advise focusing on products with a price of 250 rubles/m.p. 150 mm window sill.
What does our industry offer today besides plastic for window sills?
- Composite window sills– made by extrusion from a wood-polymer composite (wood shavings + approximately 1/3 polymer).
Compared to a purely plastic window sill, a composite one is distinguished by greater hardness, bending strength, durability and a slightly higher price;
- Wooden solid- rather a way to be original, taking into account the physical characteristics of the tree. In combination with it, it is still better to use wooden windows or laminated metal-plastic ones, but remember that the requirements for installing such a window are stricter.
The appearance of abundant condensation on a window with such a window sill can lead to very unpleasant consequences.
- Wooden laminated- somewhat more physically stable than its solid wood counterpart, but not by much.
Glued window sills also come in this design, using plywood or MDF inserts, veneered.
The cost of wooden and wooden glued window sills today ranges (for pine) from 25 to 28 thousand rubles/cub.m. Beech or oak will cost approximately 4,500 rubles. but already per sq.m. with a thickness of 40 mm.
- With a base made of fiberboard or MDF, laminated or veneered.
Often such window sills are installed in residential premises. But in kitchens they can be used to create combined countertops (window sill - table, window sill - work surface, window sill - bedside table, etc.).
In these cases, panels with thick plastic lamination with improved consumer characteristics are used. At a price of 3 to 5 thousand rubles/sq.m. this is a fairly affordable option
- Stone– often granite (harder) or marble (softer). Made from slabs of natural stone. It is possible to use other types of stone, but extremely rarely, when solving special design problems and having practically unlimited financial resources, due to the high cost of the material.
The cost of such products made of marble or granite will range from 10 to 40 thousand rubles/sq.m. depending on the thickness (20 - 30 mm), type, quality of the stone and types of its processing (cleanliness, gloss, chamfers, etc.). With other stones the calculation is individual.
- Window sills made of artificial stone– a worthy alternative to all-stone window sills. Often only a specialist can notice the differences. Specifications differ strikingly depending on the type of polymer used in manufacturing. You can get a window sill with specified characteristics (chemical resistant, heat resistant, etc.).
You can create beautiful versions of stone with an appearance very close to real ones, but not found in nature.
An option for a window sill is a countertop in the kitchen, most often made of artificial stone. In this case, you can get the most interesting combination of price and quality.
The cost of window sills and countertops made of artificial stone is very individual and depends primarily on the polymer and filler used, as well as on the thickness of the coating layer and the thickness of the fiberboard substrate. The weighted average today for central Russia will be the cost of 1 sq.m. countertops made of artificial stone at 20 - 22 thousand rubles.
As you can see, there are a great many design options, both in terms of types of materials, and in terms of characteristics and cost, but the next section of the article will help to competently balance our desires and capabilities with our needs.
Windows are crying, or how to get rid of condensation
Even if you installed the new window absolutely correctly, and first of all this refers to its positioning in the wall mass so that inner surface glass unit was located beyond the dew point, you need to keep in mind some other aspects. Without sufficient airflow (or heating), especially in the kitchen, bathroom, and windows, moisture may condense. The question of how a window sill can influence this process is more than appropriate, since we are placing it here.
Most housewives, when installing a window sill, insist on its maximum width, without thinking that by increasing it they radically worsen the window airflow conditions due to air convection provided by a radiator installed under the window.
What to do?
1. Refuse the width of the window sill to completely cover the radiator. Ideally, the outer edge of the window sill should reach no more than half its thickness. Moreover, even a lowered curtain will not block the convection currents.
2. Embed grilles of directional air ducts into the PVC, chipboard, MDF or wooden window sill and unfold them so that warm air entered the glass unit.
3. Install a window sill made of natural stone, which, when heated, will begin to radiate heat onto the double-glazed window.
4. Install the so-called " thermal curtain" Of course, we do not mean a blower installed at the entrance to stores and office rooms, although it will definitely cope with this task effectively. We recommend installing a PLEN (film infrared low-temperature electric heater) or a similar device into the slope, which will heat the window niche with radiant energy, creating the necessary operating conditions. It is important to remember that IR rays pass freely through the glass without heating it, so the direction of the rays should be: from the slope to the slope, from the upper slope to the window sill (or vice versa).
5. Radically insulate the external slopes and the wall of the building around the window, moving it exactly in place installed window the dew point is closer to the outer surface of the wall.
Which of these is more suitable for you - choose for yourself, we will briefly talk about correct installation window sill.
We will not complicate the scheme standard installation window sill, considering some techniques unnecessary and aimed rather at the use of a particular material, lobbied by its manufacturers. Therefore, we ask everyone who has noticed these particular nuances of our instructions to think about the feasibility and, most importantly, the effect of using such materials and devices.
Let's start with what you at least need to see under the window sill if you remove it.
We would like to draw your attention to:
- the presence of 2 rows of stands under the window sill;
- absence of voids adjacent to the window and slopes;
- foamed outer edge;
- foam protection with a layer of plaster.
But what was wrong when installing this window sill was that its edge adjacent to the window was not placed under the lower edge of this very window. Let's look at the diagram:
This is the correct scheme for installing a window sill and it begins with carefully foaming the voids around the window if they were not filled when installing the window. If installation is carried out simultaneously, then we simply focus on this. It’s just that defects in window foam can be corrected when installing slopes, but in the lower part, after installing the ebb and window sill, nothing can be corrected.
1. We recommend installing L-shaped support stops. They are inexpensive, but will allow even a beginner to press the window sill tightly against the window, without a gap that will subsequently have to be filled with silicone sealant.
If there are such clamps, screwed to the stand profile at least every 15 - 20 cm, the rear row of stops need not be installed.
2. The next step is to mark the window sill and install it dry, without foam. At the same stage, the height of the front stops is selected. Ideally, it is better to use special plastic wedge stops. They can be set perfectly if the window is measured correctly. If they are not available, scraps of moisture-resistant plywood, plastic plates of various thicknesses, or the like will do. Use wood as a last resort.
By the way, in this photo the installation is carried out using bitumen tape, which, in our opinion, is not necessary at all if all other conditions are met. Because untrimmed foam has very good waterproofing properties if isolated from UV exposure. When installing a window sill, both the first and second conditions must be fully observed. And that will be enough. We make sure to check the correct installation using a level.
3. After the window sill has been tried on and positioned, remove it, mark the installation locations of the stops, spray the installation site with water from a spray bottle (if available) for better adhesion and apply foam, as shown above.
4. We insert the window sill, snapping it into the front stops, and evenly distribute the load for at least 12 hours so that the foam does not disturb the level when expanding.
After the foam has polymerized, the load can be removed and finishing of slopes, etc. can begin. It remains for us to mention the features of installing a window sill with very thin wall, which now, with the development of energy-efficient housing construction, is increasingly becoming the norm. In this case, it would be most practical to use furniture corners - quite powerful and at the same time durable devices for attaching shelves and other things.
We can add to this that the vertical part of such a corner should be screwed to load-bearing beams frame or other stable elements of the wall and can be mounted into it under drywall, but this is worth remembering before finishing the interior.
Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)
