Today, more and more often in apartments you can see a wall-hung toilet. Some time ago, such a design was a novelty and raised doubts - would such a toilet bowl fall off the wall if a fairly large, densely built person sat on it?
And in fact, is a wall-hung toilet reliable enough? Does it have any advantages over a conventional toilet that is placed on the floor? How to properly install a wall-mounted toilet yourself?
All these many other questions will be answered below.
Why is a wall-hung toilet better than a regular one?
The most important advantage of such a toilet is its compactness.
If we measure the distance from the wall to its front edge, we will get approximately 50-52 cm. While a regular toilet protrudes into the room by more than 70 centimeters.
In addition, the hanging design is much more convenient in terms of cleaning the room - debris does not accumulate under it, the distance from the bottom of the toilet bowl to the floor makes cleaning easy.
Visually, the room seems more spacious due to the absence of a bulky leg and flush tank.
Wall-hung toilet design
What is included in the wall-hung toilet kit?
As a rule, the manufacturer includes a frame in the installation kit, which is the element that holds the toilet and transfers the load from it and the person sitting on it to building construction, to which this frame is attached during installation, fasteners, as well as the toilet itself with pipes for connecting to the flush pipe and flush fittings.
The wall-hung toilet is attached to a frame, which is covered with a false plasterboard wall, followed by cladding with tiles or wall panels.
This design looks very aesthetically pleasing and the room takes on a completely different look:
Installation of a wall-hung toilet
This short instruction will come in handy when installing a wall-mounted toilet. Below you will find a description of the installation sequence of all elements of its design.
First of all, install the frame on which the toilet is mounted. Many people call this frame an “installation,” although this name is not entirely correct (English installation - installation), but it has caught on among the people and today, when they say installation, they mean a frame for a wall-hung toilet.
Installation of the frame is carried out at the very first stage repair work in the bathroom, when there is no finishing on the walls and ceilings yet and it looks something like this:
The frame is equipped with all necessary elements for installing a toilet - pipes for water supply and drainage, mounting bolts and flush fittings. All available fasteners can be slightly adjusted for more precise installation toilet.
At self-installation The question often arises: at what height should a wall-hung toilet be installed?
The answer here is quite simple - you need to install the toilet at a height that will be convenient for those who will use it.
The thing is that the frame is adjustable and this makes it possible to choose the most comfortable installation height.
After the frame is installed and securely fastened to the walls and floor with anchor bolts, it is covered with a false plasterboard wall, which is finished in the same style as the rest of the walls - ceramic tiles or decorative panels. A graphic representation of the sequence of actions is shown in this scan of the instructions:
The main thing is not to forget to mark and cut in in the right places all holes that will be required for further installation:
After the frame is placed in the wall, and all the necessary holes are made in the wall and finishing You can proceed to the direct installation of the wall-hung toilet itself.
The sequence of operations is as follows:
We will need to screw in the mounting threaded rods on which our toilet will be attached, and also attach the outlet pipe and the water supply (flush) pipe to it.
To avoid mistakes, you should first measure the depth of the holes in the wall into which the pipes will be inserted and mark this distance on the pipes of the fan (outlet) pipe and the water supply pipe to the toilet (flush):
The pipes cut to the required length are attached to the toilet bowl:
Important! When assembling, you must first attach the pipes specifically to the toilet, and not insert them into the wall, and then try to attach the toilet to them.
All connection points and those located in them sealing rubber bands For reliability, you can coat it with sanitary silicone sealant:
This will improve the tightness of the connections and prevent possible leaks.
After all connections are coated with sealant and the gaskets are in place, you can put the toilet on the mounting studs screwed into the wall and secure it with nuts to the wall:
The nuts should be tightened carefully so that the fragile earthenware does not burst from excessive force.
Once the toilet is securely fixed, you can cut off the protruding edges of the sealing gasket using a utility knife:
Also after this you need to cut off the extra accordion for the shutter button:
Now it's time to turn on the water supply to the tank. To do this, you need to remove the plastic cover in the hole where the shutter button will be placed.
Floor standing toilets for a long time were out of competition, but everything is changing. Owners modern apartments More and more people are choosing hanging models. This pleasure is not cheap, but it is practically the only drawback such a decision. But among the advantages of the design are its excellent design and ease of maintenance.
It is important that the installation of a wall-hung toilet is carried out in accordance with all the rules. We will tell you how and in what sequence the work is carried out, what devices will be needed to attach the bowl. Taking into account our recommendations, you can do everything yourself or supervise the actions of plumbers.
Home master can handle installation with ease wall model, if he understands distinctive features its designs.
The visible element of such a plumbing fixture is the toilet bowl itself. Its installation on the wall is carried out in two ways: using an installation and on a concrete base. In our article we will look at both options.
A wall-hung toilet model is more expensive than a regular one floor option, but you can reduce costs if you install the product yourself
Strong and weak sides hanging type plumbing fixtures are listed, which describes in detail the varieties and design specifics, and provides guidelines for choosing the best model for you personally.
The design of a wall-mounted plumbing fixture can be roughly divided into three main elements, which will be discussed further.
Reliable steel frame (module)
The frame is the main element of the entire structure, which is attached to the floor and wall of the bathroom. It is the frame that supports the cistern and bowl. The quality of subsequent operation of the product depends on its reliability. After putting the toilet into operation, the structure will need to have a sufficient margin of strength to support the weight of an adult.
To secure the frame, you must have a solid base. Plasterboard walls cannot be considered in this capacity. The frame is equipped with a mechanism that allows you to vary the installation height of the toilet bowl in the range of 40-43 cm. To securely fasten the bowl, manufacturers recommend using strong pins made of steel.
In this photo, all three elements of the toilet design are clearly visible: a light blue frame, a gray-blue plastic tank with a flush button and a white bowl
The best support frame models for hanging sanitary ware are listed, which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.
Hidden cistern
The hidden fastening of this element, according to supporters of the wall model, is considered one of the advantages of the design. The material for its manufacture is very durable plastic. To prevent condensation from accumulating on the surface, the plastic is treated with styrene.
The tank has a flat shape, distinguished by a technological cutout on one side. This cutout is necessary for the drain key device. This hole has another purpose: it allows you to remove the drain tank fittings when performing repair work.
Another feature of cisterns suspended structure is an economical drainage system that can be equipped with this model. Depending on the need, the drain dose can be 3 or 6 liters.
The bowl is a visible structural element
The bowl is chosen, as a rule, based on the personal preferences of the users. It is visible and must correspond general interior premises. In addition, it should be easy to use.
It is the toilet bowl, as a visible structural element, that should fit organically into the interior of the room: it can even have a square shape
Most buyers prefer an oval-shaped product. Although there are round, rectangular and even square models on sale.
Fastening elements are part of the selected model and are included in its configuration. There is no need to purchase additional hardware for a wall-hung toilet. In addition, among mounted models eat with electronically controlled and numerous hygiene functions.
Intelligent types of plumbing fixtures with retractable nozzles for washing and drying, deodorizing and other actions need to be connected to a power supply. Their installation is complicated by connecting the power line and setting up the system:
Image gallery
These long steel pins, running through holes in the frame and attached to the wall, are needed to hold the toilet bowl securely in place.
Connecting the necessary communications
First of all, we connect the sewer. For this connection, a black tap is used, which, as a rule, is included in the installation package. One end of this outlet is adjusted to the sewer pipe, and its other end is attached to the frame with special clips.
Water pipes should be located to the right or left of the module. The pipe should be connected to the structure using the existing one. threaded connection. To connect the water supply it is better to use copper or polypropylene pipes, and make the connection detachable.
Cold water can also be supplied to the tank using flexible hoses. Such hoses are more profitable in terms of price, but their fragility should be taken into account. And when replacing failed hoses, you will have to carry out expensive repairs, so the option with pipes is still preferable.
Don't forget to check how securely the drain container is connected to the water supply system. For this purpose, open the water supply tap. It is located inside the drain tank. After filling the container, all possible leaks are eliminated. This can be done without draining the water.
If, during the process of checking the correct connection of the toilet to the sewer or water supply system, leaks are identified, they should be carefully repaired
The connection to the sewer drain. To do this, put a toilet bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without finally securing the structure. After which the bowl is removed again and all identified leaks, if any, are eliminated.
Finishing work
At the next stage, you will have to sew up the niche using a moisture-resistant sheet of plasterboard, and then carry out the finishing work. Please note that we need exactly moisture resistant drywall, because the usual one will quickly deteriorate under the influence of condensation.
For execution finishing works When installing a wall-hung toilet with installation, moisture-resistant plasterboard is used, which can be used in rooms with high humidity without reducing its quality
To cut drywall, you need to use a template, which should be included with the installation. It will allow you to correctly cut out all the necessary mounting holes without damaging the material.
After installing the moisture-resistant sheet on its surface, you can fix finishing material. Ceramic tiles are most often used to decorate a bathroom.
Final installation steps
You can begin installing the visible part of the wall-hung toilet only after the tile adhesive has thoroughly dried.
The procedure for installing a toilet bowl:
- the drainage pipe must protrude 50 mm beyond the wall surface: it must be adjusted to this size;
- do the same with the pipe that leads to the sewer drain;
- both pipes are installed in the places intended for them;
- a large gasket similar in shape to a truncated pyramid is put on the studs that were fixed in advance, as well as on the pipes;
- the bowl is put on the studs and the pipes are attached to it;
- put rubber gaskets and plastic inserts in their places;
- put on and tighten the fastening nuts;
- The protruding parts of the rubber gasket are carefully trimmed.
Now you can drain the water from the tank, thereby checking the operation of the sewer drain. The installation height of the wall-hung toilet bowl relative to the floor can be adjusted by changing the position of the studs and retractable pins that are used to secure this element. It must match the height of the toilet visitors.
The installation height of the bowl can be adjusted in the range of 40-43 cm, but the standard distance is 40 cm from the floor surface
The standard height is 40 cm, measured from the floor surface to the top edge of the bowl.
Attaching the flush key
The installation process is completed by installing the drain key. It is included in the basic package and can be mechanical or pneumatic. Usually this procedure does not cause any problems, since all the provided connections should already be brought to the surface of the wall.
There are special pins for a mechanical key, and tubes for a pneumatic key. All that remains is to install this element in its intended place and adjust its position. That's it: the toilet can be used.
Suspended model on a concrete base
A steel frame is expensive. In principle, you can do without it by building a concrete pedestal with your own hands, which will serve as a reliable foundation for the wall-hung toilet. This option is considered the most economical.
The diagram of the model on a concrete base includes: 1 – two rods for fixing the toilet bowl, mounted into the wall; 2 – concrete base; 3 – pipe for draining into the sewer
With this installation method, the drain container can either be mounted into the wall, with the drain button located outside, or placed above the bowl of the plumbing fixture.
Pre-installation procedure
Let's consider the option that is considered the least expensive. Let's prepare everything you need for work:
- concrete M200 - approximately 40 liters;
- boards for making formwork;
- threaded rods (length 50-80 cm, thickness 2 cm) - 2 pieces;
- washers, nuts, screws for woodworking;
- plastic pipe (diameter 11 cm, length 8 cm);
- drain coupling;
- Styrofoam;
- silicone sealant.
I think it’s worth repeating that the wall we have to work with must be permanent.
Step-by-step installation process
We fix rods in the main wall, onto the outlets of which the toilet bowl will then be placed. Let us remind you that we should get a stable and reliable design, capable of supporting a weight of 400 kg.
The next step is to install the drain coupling. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the height of the toilet in order to cut the coupling to the appropriate length.
Now we need to install the formwork. In order to mark fastening points on the formwork, you should determine the distance between the holes intended for fastening.
To calculate the length of the rods, you need to add up the thickness of the recess, which is approximately 15 cm, and the distance from the wall to the toilet bowl. To fix the rods in the wall, concrete adhesive is used - a chemical anchor.
This is what the structure looks like ready for the concreting process: the place where the drain will be connected to the toilet bowl is covered with foam plastic
When the formwork is installed and the installation of the pins is completed, the bowl should be installed in the place intended for it. Make sure that the mounting holes match the outlets, and the outlet hole matches the coupling drain.
The next step is concreting. This must be done by installing foam plastic in the place where the drain hole will be. Remember that the concrete will finally harden only after 28 days.
After this, you can remove the formwork and make sure that in front of us there is a monolithic concrete block with pins coming out of it and an open, fixed coupling. A toilet is mounted to the front of the block, and a tank is placed on the base itself.
This is exactly what a wall-hung toilet will look like after installing the bowl, and its tank will be installed on a concrete base
The procedure for installing a bowl to a concrete base is no different from installing a floor-standing toilet. You need to install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts, connect and seal the drain. Lastly, a drain tank is placed on the concrete base.
As you can see, this method of installing a hanging model is much cheaper and easier than working with the installation. But, to be honest, the result is not much different from a floor-standing toilet.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The information you just read will be perceived much better if you supplement it with a video. We invite you to watch the installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation filmed on video.
The range of plumbing fixtures is expanding: toilets are being improved, updated, and become more and more attractive. But modern models, as a rule, are more expensive than traditional ones.
Tell us about how you installed a wall-hung toilet in your house/apartment. It is possible that you know technological nuances, which will be useful to site visitors. Please write comments, post photos, share your impressions and ask questions in the block below.
Conventional floor-mounted toilets have already outlived their time. They are being replaced by new developments. Wall-mounted toilets have begun to replace conventional models. A wall-hung toilet is more difficult to install, more expensive, and requires more time for installation, however, it allows you to save such important square meters. This development will be especially appreciated by residents of old buildings, where a bathroom and a bathroom occupy a couple square meters. Among other things, you can save your money if you install a wall-hung toilet yourself. From this article you will learn about each stage of this work.
Device and principle of operation
You can figure out how to install a wall-hung toilet if you understand how the installation is designed and what the principle of its operation is. The entire structure of a wall-hung toilet can be divided into three separate elements:
1st element - strong steel frame:
The frame is the main part on which the toilet bowl and cistern are attached. It must be securely fastened to the floor and wall. After installation, it must support the weight of an adult. As a consequence, the walls must meet this requirement. If you have plasterboard on the walls, then it will not be suitable as a basis for a wall-hung toilet. Among other things, the frame has a mechanism that allows you to adjust the height of the bowl in the area of 40–43 cm. Strong steel pins are used to secure the toilet bowl.
2nd element - drain tank:
In such a system, the tank is hidden. It is made of heavy-duty plastic. The tank shape is standard. It is installed in steel frame. To prevent condensation, the tank is covered with styrofoam. There is a special cutout on one side to install the drain button. If repairs to the tank are required in the future, it is through this hole that the drain tank fittings will be removed. Each tank in the wall-hung toilet is equipped with an economical flush system. Water is dosed in 3 and 6 liters.
3rd element - toilet bowl:
The bowl is the only visible part of the suspended structure. Its shape can be different (square, rectangular, round), although in most cases it is an oval.
As for the fasteners for the wall-hung toilet, it is included in the kit. Therefore, you don’t have to buy anything additional.
Tools and materials for installation
For quality work you will need to prepare the following set of tools and materials:
- plastic waste outlet,
- teflon tape,
- hairpins,
- flexible hose,
- corner valve,
- hammer drill,
- set of keys and screwdrivers,
- construction level.
Depending on individual needs, the set of construction tools and materials may vary slightly.
Installation technology
The process of installing a wall-hung toilet is as follows:
The work is, of course, difficult, but if you strictly adhere to this manual, and also study the included instructions from the manufacturer, then you can do everything yourself.
This video shows the installation of the GEBERIT installation:
Installation without installation
In case you like the model of a wall-hung toilet, but cannot buy it complete with installation, you can build a homemade concrete base. This is significantly more cheap option. As for installing the tank in this version, there are two options:
- Wall mounted.
- Mounted above the toilet bowl.
For example, consider the most affordable and economical option installing a toilet without installation with concrete base. To do this you will need to prepare in advance:
- 40 liters of concrete M200;
- boards for formwork;
- washers, nuts and wood screws;
- 2 metal rods Ø2 cm, length 50–80 cm;
- plastic pipe Ø11 cm, length 8 cm;
- silicone sealant;
- drain coupling.
The work process looks like this:
- It is necessary to fix metal rods in the main wall. It is on them that the toilet will subsequently be mounted. This design can withstand weight up to 500 kg!
- Then the drain coupling is installed. The coupling is trimmed taking into account the height of the bowl.
- Then the formwork is installed. The attachment points should be marked on the formwork. Holes are made in the required places.
- The length of the rods also needs to be adjusted correctly. To do this, add up the depth of recess into the wall and the distance from the wall to the toilet bowl.
- When the formwork and rods are installed, perform a test fitting by installing the toilet bowl.
- If everything comes together, you can start concreting. Fill the drain hole with polystyrene foam. Upon completion of the work it will be possible monolithic design with protruding pins and open coupling.
Then there's only one small thing left to do - you need to install the toilet bowl. Cladding is pre-fabricated concrete structure. Remember that each connection must have a good seal. As for the tank, it’s a matter of taste, or rather, the financial capabilities of the family.
We have reviewed with you the options for installing a wall-hung toilet: with and without installation. Choose the method that you can afford and can do.
Photo
This type of plumbing product compares favorably with its counterparts. Firstly, a wall-hung toilet saves space. The fact is that all the pipes suitable for it, as well as an unchanged structural element - the drain tank - are not noticeable, but are located behind a specially constructed false wall. Secondly, when installing floor-standing toilets around them, and especially behind them, it can be difficult to maintain cleanliness due to insufficient free space. Hanging models do not create this inconvenience, and today we will discuss all the nuances of installing this yourself.
All wall-hung toilet models are divided according to the mounting method load-bearing structure(traverses) into three types: corner, floor and wall. Therefore, such toilets can be installed almost anywhere, regardless of the size of the room, configuration and material of the walls and floor. The entire installation of a plumbing product mainly involves work on securing the supporting frame, which includes a cistern and a flush button.
According to the product instructions, the supporting structure is called installation. No matter how it is staged, in principle the list of works will be the same. All that remains is to do the water supply, drainage and finishing work.
Choosing an installation location
As a rule, it is much more convenient if there is no desire to change something in the design toilet room(there are also large ones), install a wall-hung toilet at the location of the old, floor-standing one. If a different location is selected, then you need to take into account how the supply pipes will be laid cold water and sewerage. Naturally, the less noticeable they are, the better. In any case, you need to remember that the pipe connecting the toilet to the common sewer pipe should be as short as possible. If necessary, it will be easier.
At the intended installation site, you should check what material the wall behind the toilet is made of. If this is, for example, plasterboard, then there can be no talk of any attachment to such a surface, and you will have to find a way to attach the installation to the main wall.
Installation of the support frame (installation)
First of all, you need to know that the frame design allows for height adjustment. First you need to carefully measure everything and make the initial markings. It is recommended (unless otherwise stated in the instructions) to install the support frame so that the distance from the cistern to the floor is approximately 1 m.
Before installing the frame, the sewer pipe and cold water pipe at the location where the toilet is installed must already be removed. After all, after the frame is “tightly” fixed, some other construction works in this place it will be impossible. It is best to attach the frame to the floor and wall with anchor bolts. Such a connection will ensure absolute immobility of the entire structure.
If installation is carried out in a private house where the floors are wooden, then fastening should be done using powerful screws. You may have to make some additional fasteners (for example, a metal corner).
Before fixing the installation, it is necessary to level it. It is clear that if the frame is installed crookedly, then the toilet itself will take the same position. The frame is leveled using ordinary construction materials. Moreover, it should be leveled on all planes. Otherwise, it will turn out that it seems to be level, but the front part will be higher than the back, or vice versa. To do this, you need to use the existing adjusting rods and studs for attaching to the wall.
Separate attention should be paid to the height of the bowl. Experts say that for an “average” adult it should be mounted at approximately a height of 40 cm from the floor surface. However, the required height can also be determined experimentally if all family members are tall, for example. Therefore, only an indicative parameter is indicated.
installation diagram
Connecting the toilet to communications
Professionals do not recommend supplying cold water using flexible hoses. Since the structure is in a stationary position, the connection to the water supply is made using metal pipe. This is both more reliable and durable.
Reminder. When connecting to the cold water supply system, the valve of the drain tank must be closed!!!
But it is better to connect to the sewerage system with a corrugated pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm. Before proceeding with installation work, you need to check whether the drainage is reliable. It is enough to “bait” the bowl and drain the water.
Exterior finishing
- In any case, the “sealing” of the niche should not be done “tightly”. If necessary, access to the tank should not be difficult;
- When finishing a niche with plasterboard, you should use only waterproof grades.
- The instructions for the toilet provide a template according to which the technological holes are cut.
- After all work is completed, the toilet bowl is installed. That's it, the product is considered fully assembled.
By understanding the technology for installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and get the job done to the highest possible quality. The toilet can be mounted traditional way or more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a positive effect on the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions for completing each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With a solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to manufacture toilets with a length of 575 mm) | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Children's | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
Set for work
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
In the case of installing a toilet on an installation, the listed list will be expanded with the corresponding set. Everything you need can be purchased at any plumbing store.
Removing the old toilet
First step . Turn off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. Unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. Press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using adjustable wrench. If that doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer.
In houses old buildings plums are usually secured using cement plastering. To destroy it we use a hammer and chisel. We need to crack the cement and carefully rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and become loose. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewage gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account as you work.
Getting ready for installation
The base for installing the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
- if the floor is tiled and does not have differences in level, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
- If the floor is tiled and is not level, we install the toilet using choppers. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, the choppers are driven into them at a level, and then the toilet is attached to the choppers using screws;
- if it is planned to replace the tiles, dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed if the old one has differences in level;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to the pipes. The sewer line is cleared of debris and various deposits; we install a tap on the water supply line (if it was missing before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
Installation procedure for a regular toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Markings on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.
Fifth step. We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with a wall outlet
Prices for components for toilets and urinals
Accessories for toilets and urinals
If the release is made into the wall, we work like this:
If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following:
Helpful advice! If the toilet connection is drain pipe is performed using corrugation; in most cases, sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.
Seventh step. We are installing the tank. Drain mechanisms are usually sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (assembly procedure for different models may vary slightly).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.
Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use.
Modern version installations. A special wall installation is used in which the tank mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and flush button remain visible.
We install a wall-mounted toilet on the installation
Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is installation of the frame
We install a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable using brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet bowls.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
Second stage - hanging the tank
The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- Place the drain button at approximately a meter distance from the floor;
- between the fastening points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
- We hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
- between cistern and with the wall we maintain a distance of no more than 15 mm.
The third stage – we install the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are detected, do the following:
Stage four - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost all modern tank models allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing a toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank using a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, will you want to destroy the frame casing in order to replace such a hose in five minutes? That's it!
The best way to connect is to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that’s not always the case.
We connect the outlet of our toilet to the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the flush and move the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may vary depending on the product model. We clarify these points separately and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fifth stage – covering the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it in a double layer. First we do the following:
- screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet (included in the kit);
- We close the drain holes with plugs (also included in the kit) so that they do not become clogged with dust and debris;
- We make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We attach the sheathing sheets to the frame using special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening pitch at 30-40 cm. The structure will have small sizes and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.
We cover the drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Helpful advice! Before tiling the box, we install a plug and cuff at the future location of the drain button. Usually they are included in the kit.
Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet
Stage six - installing the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on pins (we installed them at the previous stages of work). These steps can be done in reverse order, as you prefer. Tighten the fastening nuts.
Important! The tile that will come into contact with the surface must first be covered with a layer of silicone sealant(you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The installation instructions remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Keep your knee position firmly in place. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Place the toilet in its designated location. Trace the outline of the plumbing product and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the markings.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and secure sanitary product using bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. The installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installing a wall-mounted toilet model.
Seventh step. We insert the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for permanent use.
Read our new article- and also find out what types there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Good luck!
Video - DIY toilet installation
