It is obvious that for a comfortable life in the house you need effective air exchange. Today we will talk about how to improve ventilation in the attic - a very specific area.
The attic, a room under the roof, receives warm air saturated with water vapor from the lower rooms. It not only creates discomfort, but also poses a threat to the wooden roof structure and fiber insulation. When it enters a cold zone (under the roof), steam turns into condensation and moistens materials that do not tolerate the effects of water well. Therefore, to remove moist warm air, you need to provide an exhaust hood.
Air exchange can be natural (air moves by gravity due to draft) and forced (due to an electric fan).
There are four main solutions for ventilation:
- with natural inflow and exhaust;
- with forced inflow and natural exhaust;
- with natural inflow and forced exhaust;
- with forced inflow and exhaust.
The first option is the cheapest. In this case, a continuous supply of fresh air is provided by window or wall air supply devices(valves). Built into the window, they ventilate the room when the sash is closed. Window valves There are both for ordinary and for skylights. Moreover, attic rooms boast labyrinthine channels that prevent the formation of drafts. But their productivity is small - up to 30-50 m³/h. There are also models with a window valve combined with a handle for opening the sash.
But for the wall valve you will have to make a hole in external wall. This device consists of an air duct pipe with a diameter of 80-160 mm, an air intake grille that is installed outside, and a head with an air flow regulator mounted from the inside. The operating principle of the valve varies. For example, in humidified models, a moisture-sensitive sensor located in the room is connected to an external damper. It changes the flow area depending on the level of humidity in the room, thereby controlling the air flow.
As for the hood, it is organized using ventilation ducts, which are laid inside the building during the construction stage. The inlets are made under the ceiling, where heated air accumulates, and the outlets are on the roof.
It is recommended to make the outlet openings of the ventilation ducts as close as possible to the ridge. This is necessary to improve traction.
A system with natural inflow and exhaust has a big drawback: it is effective only in the cold season. The fact is that air circulation requires a large difference between the temperature outside and in the building, which cannot exist in the warm months. A system with natural inflow and forced exhaust does not have this drawback. It involves the use of the same supply valves (wall and window). However, the exhaust is carried out by mechanical fans built into the exhaust ducts. Let's take a closer look at them.
There are ready-made products - waterproofed ventilation pipe outlets to the roof with a fan inserted into the head. There are also cased exhaust fans with a capacity of 80 to 7000 m 3 /h, mounted in “mini-attics”. This means that they remain between the horizontal ceiling of the attic space and the ridge of the roof. Moreover, the inlet openings are closed with grilles with adjustable dampers, which allows you to control the volume of warm air removed and thereby save heat. Such exhaust fans operate with low noise levels and are not audible in residential areas. In addition, they have minimal energy consumption, which means their work will not cost a pretty penny.
Another option is the so-called hybrid ventilation. In this case, on the channels natural exhaust there is a mechanical fan low pressure. During the cold season, it does not work, and its blades are designed so as not to interfere with natural draft. However, in summer it turns on, maintaining a pressure in the channel comparable to natural draft.
Completely forced ventilation is an expensive solution and, according to many experts, hardly justified in a country house.
To conclude the topic, we note that completely forced ventilation makes sense only when Vacation home is located near a busy highway or is inhabited by people suffering from allergies. In other cases, you can look for a compromise solution to breathe truly clean air, and not the air that is forced into the room, passing through a mechanical fan (with lubricant), a filter (clogged with dust) and air ducts that are not impeccably clean.
From the author: Hello, dear friends! It has long been known that a properly equipped ventilation system is the key to a comfortable and healthy life. After all, the microclimate is of great importance. That is why today we will talk about how ventilation is installed in a two-story private house.
Strictly speaking, the design of the system does not change much depending on the number of floors. The only difference is that when using forced ventilation it is necessary to use more powerful equipment for two-story cottage than for a one-story building. This is due, first of all, to the volume of air available in the house.
In general, the methods are not too different. And certainly for a house of any number of floors it is necessary to approach the issue equally competently. Oddly enough, among some owners of country houses there is an opinion that private buildings do not need special established system air exchange. Such doubts arise especially often if the house is built from “breathable” materials - for example, wood.
But let's evaluate the overall picture objectively. Think about it, because you are unlikely to leave the erected walls bare. An insulation layer will probably be placed on them, and then a finishing touch will be placed, giving the building a beautiful and aesthetic appearance. All of these additions will definitely block access to fresh air that might otherwise pass through the walls.
Even if you are going to build a house from wood, which does not require finishing, please note that modern timber has completely different qualities than the wood that was used in the good old days. Now the material is impregnated with various compounds designed to protect it from harmful effects external environment. In addition, the timber is often glued. All these substances tightly clog the pores, so there is simply no opportunity for air exchange.
Also, do not forget about double-glazed windows, which are installed on windows everywhere. Previously, ordinary wooden frames with glass acted in this capacity. They had wonderful gaps in their design, through which fresh air successfully circulated towards the house and back.
In general, arguments in favor of arrangement ventilation system so many. Let's finally begin to consider what methods can be used to organize this.
Type of ventilation
First of all, it is worth understanding the two types of air exchange. It can be natural or forced. Each option has certain advantages and disadvantages, so let's take a closer look at them.
Natural air exchange
Natural ventilation is ventilation that does not require the installation of any equipment designed to stimulate air movement. Simply put, air masses lead a completely independent life. To remove exhaust air, ventilation shafts are provided - in other words, channels cut into the ceiling and wall that go out onto the roof.
The air that has been in the house becomes warm. As everyone knows from school lessons physics, in this case it begins to rise upward. This is what they are designed for, the entrance to which is located in the upper part of the room. Air masses reach them naturally, and then follow the shaft up, emerging from the pipe onto the street.
This is all clear. But as you know, the amount of air that leaves the house must somehow be replenished. And this is where the problem lies. It has already been discussed in detail above that modern walls and double-glazed windows make the home a real fortress, into which the enemy may perhaps penetrate, but fresh air certainly does not.
The problem can be solved in two ways:
- ventilation. Everyone seems to know how this is done - if the house becomes stuffy, you need to open the window. In fact, when stuffiness sets in, your brain has already begun to get tired and experience oxygen starvation. This should not be allowed, since frequent repetition of such situations can seriously harm your health. For example, this is fraught with migraines - rather unpleasant conditions that are difficult to get rid of. So, in order not to lead yourself to oxygen starvation, you need to do ventilation not after the onset of stuffiness, but at a certain frequency - every three hours. The duration of the procedure is 15 minutes. The problem is that not every family has a person who would agree to sit at home all day long and periodically open the window. As a rule, most people work, so in the evenings they have to return to their homes with stagnant air;
- use of an inlet valve. This simple equipment is an excellent alternative to ventilation. The supply valve is installed either in a window or in a wall. It essentially consists of an air duct through which air masses circulate. The equipment is made in such a way that its installation does not in any way affect the occurrence of drafts or changes in temperature in the home. Thus, there is no need to constantly open the window - freshness and oxygen flow continuously through the supply valve.
But even the use of a supply valve cannot solve the main problem of natural ventilation. We are talking about low air exchange rates. The fact is that, regardless of the method of fresh air supply, it depends on some external factors. First of all, it depends on the air temperature outside and inside the room.
To ensure at least a relatively normal air exchange rate, it is necessary that it be cold outside and hot in the house. The smaller the temperature difference, the slower the air exchange occurs. What then happens in the summer, when it is equally hot outside and indoors? Never mind. There is simply no air exchange, or there is, but at such a level that there is no point.
Basically for small houses natural ventilation may be more or less suitable - there is a small volume of air, changing which does not take much time. But since today we're talking about Regarding two-story buildings, we immediately reject this option for the reasons described above.
Forced air exchange
But this method is the one that is suitable for consideration for use in a private house of any number of floors. IN in this case air circulation is affected by the use of special equipment, which is installed either in the shaft, or on the roof, or in one of non-residential premises- for example, on the attic floor. There are also free-standing devices, which will be discussed below.
Forced ventilation options
The arrangement of a forced air exchange system is a fairly broad topic, so it is necessary to consider it in as much detail as possible. To begin with, this method is divided into three types: supply, exhaust and supply and exhaust ventilation.
Supply equipment
Supply ventilation equipment is responsible for pumping fresh air into the house. In this case, the waste material comes out naturally through the same exhaust shafts. This principle is based on the difference in density of cold and warm air.
The first, entering the room, has a denser structure due to its temperature, it is heavier and is located first in the floor area. Due to these properties, it pushes out already heated exhaust air masses. They rise up and go outside through the ventilation ducts.
Then the process is repeated. Cold air comes in, old air comes out. In general, natural ventilation works on the same principle. But the forced one has a high discharge rate, due to which the intensity of air exchange increases sharply.
There are two most popular types of devices for equipping such a system:
- supply valves. Yes, they have already been mentioned in the conversation about natural air exchange. But in this case, these devices also have a fan in their design, which is responsible for pumping air into the room. Despite this, the device still remains quite simple. An air duct is laid inside the wall into which the fan is installed. On the side of the room, the structure is closed with a lid, and on the outside of the building - with a protective grille, the purpose of which is to create a barrier against precipitation, debris, small rodents and various living creatures that have absolutely no business in a decent house. Installation of the supply valve is very simple: just drill the wall using a hammer drill, then clean the hole, place the air duct in it and assemble the entire structure;
- breather Essentially, this is the same supply valve, but with expanded functionality. There is also an air duct, a fan and protective grilles. But they also come with some “chips” that are responsible for the comfort of the people living in the house. For example, these include temperature and humidity sensors, with the help of which equipment can automatically start when necessary. In addition, many breathers have a small convector built into them, which heats the air entering the house in the current mode. Thus, the temperature level in the room does not change in any way - this is both comfortable and allows you to save on heating resources.
Exhaust equipment
Another option for arranging a forced ventilation system is the use of exhaust equipment. It is installed, as a rule, in places with an increased need for air removal. This, of course, is a sanitary unit and a kitchen area.
In the first case, the need is mainly due to high level humidity. If you don't fight it in any way, then over time it will lead to damage. finishing materials, as well as to the formation of mold, which is directly harmful to health.
The kitchen also needs to remove air for obvious reasons: grease, high humidity, and not always pleasant odors. Moreover, sometimes it happens that the food is burnt, and it is necessary to get rid of these aromas as quickly as possible.
For such cases it is established kitchen hood- equipment that is located above the stove and connected to the ventilation shaft. There is a fan inside the device, which is responsible for drawing in and further removing air masses along with odors and humidity.
In the bathroom and toilet, the role of exhaust equipment is also played by a fan, which is installed at the entrance to the ventilation duct and covered with a protective grille. It helps to quickly normalize the humidity level in the room.
The disadvantage of an exhaust forced ventilation system is the same modest volume of arriving fresh air. This has already been said more than once today, so we won’t repeat it. But the problem will not go away. Especially it concerns two-story houses, in which the volume of air is quite large. It simply won’t have time to replenish itself. Therefore, in this case it is worth considering the third method of arranging the ventilation system.
Supply and exhaust equipment
From the name it is clear that the devices installed within such a system are responsible for both the supply and removal of air. Most often this is achieved by combining various devices. For example, you can install breathers, and install exhaust devices in the kitchen and bathroom.
This approach solves two problems at once. Firstly, it is achieved required intensity air exchange. Secondly, you can completely control the volume of both incoming and outgoing air masses.
In addition, there is also special devices double acting - supply and exhaust. As a rule, they are equipped with recuperators. This item is designed to hold thermal energy from recycled air and give it to fresh air upon arrival of the latter.
Agree that such savings on heating in a large house are very useful. You will kill two birds with one stone: you will gain a healthy microclimate, and temperature regime Do not disturb the premises in any way.
Of course, supply and exhaust ventilation is much more expensive than other systems. Firstly, the equipment itself costs a lot. Secondly, all devices are connected to the mains and consume a certain amount of electricity during operation.
The last factor, by the way, is the main disadvantage of forced ventilation, regardless of what type of ventilation is used. Dependence on electricity means that in the event of a power outage, all equipment will simply stop.
So it is recommended that you consider purchasing and installing a backup generator in advance. It will be useful to you to maintain the functionality of not only the ventilation, but also the heating system in the event of force majeure.
As for the installation of equipment for forced ventilation, it is not that complicated. You can read about how to properly do the installation yourself in articles on our website dedicated to this topic. Once you have the necessary information, you will do just fine. Good luck!
Equipped attic space– the attic has become widespread relatively recently. Just a few decades ago, owners of private houses did not think about the functionality of this special place. Now everything is different - a useful habitable area will not hurt anyone. The main thing is to create on it correct air exchange. Attic ventilation can not only reduce energy losses, but also extend the life of the roof.
Functions of attic ventilation
During particularly hot periods, the ventilation system eliminates stuffiness, but in winter it effectively prevents cold and moisture from entering the room. That is why important point is correct installation ventilation system with your own hands, because:
- the system eliminates moisture and prevents the formation of dampness in insulation material– it is thanks to ventilation that the heat insulator maintains its functionality for many years, preventing the penetration of heat and cold;
- with properly created ventilation, the formation of fungus and mold is minimized, thereby eliminating the possibility of premature destruction wooden elements roofs;
- in extreme heat, it prevents hot air from entering the house;
- prevents the accumulation of moisture, thereby preventing corrosion that negatively affects metal tiles;
- eliminates the formation of icicles under the eaves in severe frosts;
- saves energy resources, thereby reducing the costs required to heat a residential attic in winter.
Natural ventilation in the attic
The natural ventilation system directly depends on the correct installation of insulating materials. Required conditions laying insulation is the presence of ventilation spaces between the layers of the material used and under the roof surface. Natural ventilation is based on the creation of natural draft, thanks to which there is a constant flow of air masses. The total area of the ventilation ducts should be 0.2% of the total area of the attic. The simplest installation option is to route the channels through the gables. This technology can be used for non-stone roofing elements.
The size of the gap for free air exchange depends on the roofing material used for the roof:
- when using metal tiles, tiles, metal profiles, the gap should be more than 25 mm;
- when used soft materials and flat products, the space for air flow must be more than 50 mm;
- when installing waterproofing and insulation, the space between them should be from 20 to 30 mm.
Important! To create high-quality natural ventilation above attic room it is necessary to create a hermetically sealed separation of the ventilation cavities, thanks to which natural ventilation attic floor will be carried out evenly, without the formation of “dead” zones.
Installation of natural ventilation
A natural ventilation system is created during roof installation. To implement air exchange, you will need to install special elements responsible for air exchange under the roof. For air flow, soffits are used, which are installed around the perimeter of the building. The perforated surface allows air to enter the attic. To remove exhaust air, point or continuous aerators are used, which are installed on the slope of the roof.
Special aerators are mounted on the ridge. It is thanks to ridge aerators that the efficiency of all natural ventilation increases, because the area of the outlet surfaces of the elements is much larger than that of conventional ones. The number of aerators is calculated individually and depends on the total roof area. For 100 m2 of area to be ventilated, 2 aerators are installed.
Important! Natural ventilation functions flawlessly only in the cold season, since air exchange requires a difference in temperature outside and inside the room. This is why ventilation mansard roof requires the installation of a forced air exchange system.
Ventilation of a residential attic using dormer windows
The installation of a dormer window is carried out in accordance with SNiP II-26, SNiP 21-01:
- installation dormer windows possible with a roof slope of more than 35 degrees;
- the minimum size of the doors is 0.6x0.8 m;
- The permissible size of dormer windows is 1.2x0.8 m.
The shapes of dormer windows in a private house can be different and depend on the style of the building. Dormer windows are installed using frames during roof construction, forming an integral structure. Ventilation using dormer windows improves the aesthetics of the roof and its functionality.
For a pitched roof ideal option are windows with one inclined plane. Installation diagram: 2 beams are located at the distance required by SNiP and are fixed using vertical posts connected at the top by a jumper. External sides are sheathed facing material, a decorative grille is installed on the façade side.
Single ventilated gap system
When arranging the ventilation system of a pitched roof, it is worth considering that the size of the ventilation duct directly depends on the length of the slopes and the angle of the roof.
According to SNiP II-26-76:
- the gap height is no more than 5 cm, an increase in which can lead to the formation of turbulence, which will significantly reduce air exchange;
- when the coating length is more than 10 m, forced ventilation is required;
- The openings of the ventilation system must be reliably protected from debris.
Forced attic ventilation
When installing forced air exchange, a fan is installed in the ventilation duct. It is especially necessary to install the device in the presence of short ventilation ducts that are not capable of providing high-quality draft. When installing a fan in a country house, the air flow is installed in the same way as when natural system. Installed roof fan from the outside at a distance of more than 8 m from the inlet openings. It is also very important that the fan is not installed close to windows, as exhaust air may be sucked into them.
The performance of a roof-mounted fan depends on:
- impeller dimensions: larger diameter – higher productivity;
- the angle of bending of the blades: the larger it is, the large quantity air will be recycled;
- electric motor power.
The best way to improve performance is to install multiple fans. Using a powerful cooler is impractical.
Important! To prevent the formation of condensation, the fan must be insulated using special materials, for example, using mineral wool.
The attic ventilation system is a very important element in creating comfortable conditions in the house. It must be installed in accordance with regulatory requirements construction industry. As a rule, the ventilation system is developed at the design stage of the building itself and installed at the time the roof is erected.
A large country house is the dream of many families. But in order for the building to be comfortable for living, it is necessary to provide for the presence of all necessary communications in it at the design stage. One of them is ventilation.
An established air exchange system in the house will provide:
- supply of oxygen to the premises;
- protecting rooms from dampness, mold and mildew;
- comfortable living conditions and optimal sanitary conditions for human life.
Which rooms need ventilation?
For normal life, a person needs pure oxygen. Therefore, its supply should be ensured in living rooms, such as the bedroom, living room, and children's room. Service areas in the house (bathroom, etc.) also need constant circulation. Here there is often high humidity and accumulation of odors that need to be removed outside. Ventilation of these premises will reduce the formation of dust, dirt, excessive stuffiness, condensation, the spread of harmful microorganisms, and mold.
Ventilation system, methods of organization
There are two main types of air exchange arrangement in residential buildings:
- natural (natural);
- mechanical (forced).
Features of the arrangement and principle of operation of natural ventilation of a private house
Natural air exchange in residential buildings is carried out based on the difference in pressure inside and outside the house, as well as the effect of wind on the building. How it works?
The temperature inside the house is higher than outside, so the oxygen there has a lighter structure. Thanks to this, he climbs the shafts and goes out into the street. A vacuum arises in the room, which draws fresh air from the street through the openings in the building envelope. The incoming masses have a heavy structure, so they are located at the bottom of the premises. Under their influence the light warm air pushed out of the rooms.
The wind accelerates the circulation of air masses. As the difference in temperature inside and outside the cottage and wind speed increases, the supply of freshness to the house increases. Previously, the places where it entered were leaks in windows, doors, and porous walls. But modern systems insulation, as well as plastic windows designed, so they have no gaps for air supply. In this case, the inflow is carried out through special valves mounted in the windows or walls of the building.
Waste oxygen enters the openings of the vertical ventilation ducts of the house, located in the kitchen and bathroom, and is discharged outside through them. Replenishment of fresh water occurs through ventilation (opening windows, doors, transoms).
Advantages and disadvantages of the system
Natural air exchange in the house has the following advantages:
- efficiency. The movement of air flows is carried out without the use of additional equipment;
- no accidents. The ventilation design is extremely simple, does not depend on the power supply, and does not require regular maintenance;
- quiet operation;
- Possibility of combination with filtration and air conditioning systems.
The main disadvantage of natural ventilation is poor air exchange, which leads to the formation of condensation, accumulation unpleasant odors, the occurrence of mold and mildew. This threatens not only the gradual destruction of the house, but also the health of the people living in it.
The natural ventilation system does not allow you to regulate the volume of air removed and supplied to the premises. The recycled stream either does not have time to be discharged outside, or is removed too quickly, causing heat loss in the house. IN summer time, when the temperature inside and outside the house is almost the same, the draft disappears and the air movement in the system stops. Therefore, natural circulation is practically not used in modern house construction. It is used in combination with a mechanical system.
Forced ventilation - features, types
This is an artificially organized system, the movement of oxygen in which is carried out through the use of injection devices (fans, pumps, compressors). It is used in private buildings where natural ventilation is not provided or does not work. Advantages of mechanical organization:
- works autonomously, regardless of weather conditions (pressure, temperature, wind);
- allows you to prepare the air supplied to the premises to a comfortable state (heat/cool, humidify/dry, purify).
Disadvantages of the forced scheme for mansions:
- significant costs for setting up the system, purchasing equipment, paying for electricity;
- the need for regular maintenance.
Mechanical air exchange in a private house can be arranged in several ways. There are different types of ventilation:
- supply - provides forced supply from the outside;
- exhaust - removes the processed flow from the premises mechanically;
- supply and exhaust - inflow and supply in the house are organized artificially.
Supply ventilation in a private house
This system is designed to replace exhaust air in the house with fresh air. It consists of:
- air intake;
- heating and cooling devices;
- cleaning filters;
- devices supplying air to rooms;
- sound-absorbing devices.
Through air valve clean air enters the system, undergoes certain processing, is filtered, and, using a fan, is distributed throughout the rooms in the house. Getting into the rooms, it displaces the waste stream. The supplied air can be additionally cooled or heated.
Supply ventilation systems are:
- duct - air circulation is carried out through pipes;
- channelless - the flow is supplied to the room through holes in the walls and windows.
According to the device method, they are distinguished:
- stacked ventilation systems consisting of separate units connected by one air duct;
- monoblock - all devices are collected in one compact housing.
Supply installation schemes have the following advantages:
- the ability to regulate the temperature and volume of oxygen supplied;
- compact dimensions;
- functionality (they have additional devices for cleaning, heating, cooling the supplied air);
- ease of installation and maintenance.
The disadvantages of this type of ventilation can be identified:
- noisiness. During operation, the system units produce sounds, so it is necessary to provide a noise suppressor and install the equipment away from the living rooms in the house;
- the need for space to install all its elements (this will be required when installing a typesetting system);
- need for regular maintenance.
Exhaust ventilation in a private house
When installing this system, clean air enters the rooms through windows, doors, and special valves, and exhaust air is removed using exhaust fans. These devices are installed in the most problem areas at home (in the kitchen, bathroom), they come in wall and duct types.
Pros of this installation:
- control of the volume of exhaust air;
- independence from environmental conditions;
- ease of installation.
Among the disadvantages of the system:
- inability to control the amount of air supplied to the house;
- costs for the purchase of equipment, electricity;
- the need for regular maintenance.
Ventilation using supply and exhaust units
How to make ventilation in a private house With metal-plastic windows, finished with modern thermal insulation materials? To do this, you need a high-quality system that allows you to supply fresh air and remove exhaust air automatically. Air handling units will solve this problem.
They provide for the organization of two parallel flows:
- for exhaust air removal;
- for serving fresh.
These settings allow you to regulate the volume of output and supply flows, allowing you to maintain optimal level humidity in the premises of the house. Main elements of the supply and exhaust system:
- air ducts - intended for supplying and removing air masses. They form two parallel lines, consisting of pipes and fittings (tees, rotating elements). Air ducts differ in shape (round, rectangular), cross-sectional area, rigidity (made of aluminum foil, galvanized sheet, plastic);
- fan - provides the pressure in the ventilation system necessary for supplying and removing air. It can be installed on the roof of the building, directly in the air duct, or on a special support;
- air intake grille - through them, air from the street enters the supply channel. Also, these elements protect the system from foreign objects, rodents, birds, and precipitation;
- air valve - prevents air from entering the system when it is off. It can operate on an electric drive, in automatic mode, and can also be equipped with electric heating that prevents freezing of the sashes;
- filters - protect ventilated rooms and the system itself from insects, dust, and other small particles. They require regular cleaning (recommended once a month);
- heater - heats the air supplied to the premises during the cold season. This device can be water (suitable for large cottages) and electric (used in small houses);
- noise mufflers - prevent sounds from operating devices from spreading through the pipe system. They are tubular, plate, chamber, cellular. Once air enters them, it passes through special barriers (perforated channels, tubes or plates), as a result of which its intensity decreases. Installing a silencer is not always necessary. Sometimes, to reduce the intensity of sounds in the system, it is enough to reduce the speed of the installation and ensure sound insulation of the fans;
- air intakes and distributors. The first serve to enter the flow into the system, the second - to distribute it evenly throughout the room. These elements are presented in the form of round grilles and diffusers, rectangular shape. They are mounted on the walls or ceiling of the room;
- control system. It can be mechanical (represented by a switch) or automatic (operation is regulated by a remote control). Its main elements are thermo- and hydrostats, pressure gauges;
- security system - represented by a set additional accessories, protecting ventilation elements from overheating and power surges.
An improved model of supply and exhaust ventilation is a recovery type system. It ensures efficient circulation in the house without loss of heat. This ventilation system is equipped with a recuperator, which allows reducing the cost of heating air coming from the street. The influent masses are heated by the heat of recycled streams removed from the house. This is the most effective and energy-efficient way to organize air exchange in residential buildings, although it is the most expensive.
Gas ventilation in a private house
The presence of gas appliances in the house places increased demands on the arrangement of circulation in the premises. Impaired traction can cause poisoning from combustion products.
For normal operation gas installations oxygen is needed. If there is not enough of it, the air in the room is discharged. As a result, there arises reverse thrust, and instead of a chimney, combustion products enter the surrounding space. They can cause malaise, severe headaches, loss of consciousness in a person, and even complete respiratory arrest.
Requirements for ventilation of a gas boiler room
Air exchange in a room with a heating device running on natural gas must be organized in accordance with the following technical requirements:
- there are no more than two gas units per chimney;
- combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level supply, a cut of the same height is installed in the channel;
- To prevent soot and carbon monoxide from leaking into the house, the boiler ventilation system should be sealed. Processing of joints and seams is carried out with material resistant to high temperatures;
- all elements of the exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.
Ventilation of the boiler room is constructed on the basis of the following calculation: air outflow = air exchange x 3.
Air supply = outflow + volume of oxygen required for the combustion process.
Methods for ventilating a gas boiler room
Air exchange in the room where it is located gas equipment, can be organized using:
- natural and mechanical ventilation based on draft. Natural circulation is the result of a pressure difference inside the house and outside. During mechanical ventilation, draft is generated by a fan;
- supply, exhaust, or combined ventilation systems, organized according to their intended purpose. Air forced into the room puts pressure on the exhaust flow, pushing it out. Also, oxygen can be supplied to the boiler room naturally and removed mechanically. A combined (supply and exhaust) system will allow you to organize the ventilation of the room automatically, which works effectively in any weather, since the supply and exhaust are carried out mechanically;
- channelless or channel (depending on constructive solution cottage). In the first case, the boiler room is connected through holes to another room, from where the waste stream is discharged into the air duct. In the second case, a complex system of pipes is laid to ensure exchange in all rooms of the house.
Advice: to improve the natural ventilation of a gas boiler room, it is better to additionally install an exhaust fan, which will ensure the movement of air masses in the absence of draft.
Heating devices closed type, operating on natural gas, are equipped with a coaxial (double) ventilation duct. According to him inner tube combustion products are removed, and fresh air is supplied to the burner through the external one.
If the house has a gas boiler with a combustion chamber open type, follows:
- install a pipe to remove carbon monoxide to the street;
- arrange a general air exchange system in the room;
- arrange the supply of oxygen to the boiler.
Note: oxygen can enter the room from the street through cracks and gaps in windows and doors. If the room is sealed hermetically, you will need to organize a forced air supply.
Proper ventilation in a private home
Organizing oxygen exchange will ensure a favorable microclimate in the house, the health of its inhabitants and the safety of the structure itself. How to arrange it correctly?
Norms and rules for home ventilation
To create a cottage in residential and office premises optimal conditions for human life, it is necessary that 60 m 3 of oxygen (minimum 20 m 3) enter each of them in 1 hour. Comfortable air humidity is 50%, and its exchange rate is 0.5 m/s.
This can be achieved through proper system design. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the air exchange rate for rooms for different purposes. For a bathroom this figure is 50 m3, a common bathroom - 25 m3, a kitchen - 90 m3. Not only service rooms should be ventilated, but also living rooms, utility rooms. To form a calculated hood, it is necessary to sum up the air exchange rates of each compartment of the house. In this case, it is desirable that actual ventilation exceeds the minimum standards.
Designing an air exchange system in a house
Development of a home ventilation project includes:
- selection of equipment;
- drawing up a communications wiring diagram taking into account architectural, construction, sanitary, and economic criteria.
The purpose of this work is to develop a system that will cope with the supply and exhaust of air, within the estimated volume calculated for the house. The design must not only ensure uninterrupted ventilation of the premises, but also free access to all structural elements (assemblies, chambers). This is necessary for quick troubleshooting and regular maintenance.
For circulation to work well, it is important to carefully select all equipment. It should last as long as possible. The devices used should not spoil the architecture of the house, so it is better to install them in a hidden way.
When designing cottage ventilation, it is important that the system complies with sanitary and epidemiological standards. It must not only cope with the supply/removal of air masses, but also operate as silently as possible. Don't forget about the efficiency of the system. But the desire to reduce installation costs should not affect the quality of the installation. The main design task is to develop optimal option ventilation of the house, taking into account all the above criteria.
The preparation of a project by a contractor begins with the formation of technical specifications. It contains all the criteria by which the ventilation system should be laid, as well as the customer’s wishes.
Calculation of ventilation in a private house
The operation of the system depends on whether the volume of air supplied and exhausted corresponds to the conditions of the house. This can be calculated using special formulas. The basis is the house plan, which indicates the purpose and area of each room.
First, the air exchange rate is calculated - an indicator that determines how many times in 1 hour the air in the room is completely changed. For most residential premises it can be single, for kitchens, bathrooms, boiler rooms - 2-3 times. It is also necessary to take into account the people living in the house.
The air exchange rate is calculated using the formula: L(performance air handling unit, m3/h) = n(multiplicity rate for a specific room) *V(room volume).
Calculation of air exchange, taking into account the number of people living in the house, is carried out according to the formula: L = N(number of residents) *L(air intended for one person is the norm). By doing physical activity one individual needs air renewal - 30 m 3 / h, in a calm state - 20 m 3 / h.
Please note: having calculated the air exchange rate by the frequency and the number of residents, they are guided by the larger of these values.
Equipment selection
Criteria by which the main system settings are selected:
- power, performance;
- operating pressure;
- noise level emitted.
The speed of movement along the highways directly depends on their cross-section, as well as the power of the fan. But you should also take into account that the air ducts provide a certain resistance, which reduces the performance of the air handling unit.
Note: the productivity of the cottage ventilation system should be in the range of 1000-3000 m 3 /h.
At the stage of developing a feasibility study, the type, quantity and power of system elements are determined, and its preliminary cost, optimization adjustments are made. After this, a working design is drawn up, based on high-precision calculations of air exchange and heat release of a particular house. The devices and air distributors in it are selected according to.
Ventilation diagram for a private house
The air distribution network consists of pipes, fittings (rotating elements, splitters, adapters), distribution devices (diffusers, grilles). Based on this, you can determine:
- fan operating pressure - it depends on technical parameters unit, type and diameter of air ducts, number of rotary and connecting elements air distributors used. The longer the line and the more different connectors, turns, and adapters there are on it, the greater the pressure the fan should create;
- the speed of movement of air masses depends on the diameter of the highways. For residential buildings this is 2.5-4 m/s;
- noise level - depends on the cross-section of the highways and the speed of air movement along them. Quiet operation of the ventilation system will be ensured by large diameter pipes. If it is not possible to install them, use lines with a cross-section of 160-250 mm, equipped with distribution grids 20x20, or 20x30 cm.
According to the interstate standard (GOST 21.602-2003), the diagram must show all elements of the ventilation system. They are designated by certain symbols and signed.
To make it comfortable and safe for a person, it is necessary to organize its ventilation. This will not only provide a favorable microclimate, but will also extend the operational life of the structure itself. There are several types of indoor air exchange arrangements. The choice of a specific system depends on the area, design features of the house, the number of people living in it, and the budget. For it to work effectively, it is better to entrust its planning and installation to professionals with experience in this field.
02.02.2012, 08:32
There are plenty of ways to heat the second floor with a stove. But I want to discuss one more thing.
The Internet is full of reviews where they say that they do not make any additional devices for heating the second floor at all. Warm air itself goes upstairs through the staircase. There are even reports that heat is lost too rapidly to the second floor, which leads to uneven heating: it’s too hot at the top and too cold at the bottom.
The idea is that, without making any special devices for heating the second floor, you can achieve optimal temperatures It's just a matter of adjusting the ventilation.
So far the design appears to be like this. Each room above should have a pair of air ducts: one from the ceiling of the first floor to the ceiling of the second, and the second from the floor of the second floor to the floor of the first, closer to the furnace firebox. The flow-regulating grid can be placed on any of the pipes - the effect should be the same.
The mechanism is as follows. Fresh dry street air is sucked in through the underground and the cracks between the stove and the floor, the surface of the wall heats this dry air, it rises to the ceiling of the first floor and from there it partially reaches the ceiling of the second floor. There it pushes the damp, polluted, cooled air down and through the second air duct directs it to the furnace firebox, from where it is discharged outside.
The question regarding the necessary and sufficient sizes of air ducts is still unclear to me.
02.02.2012, 08:54
By the way, electronics lovers can install automatic controls on the control grilles, which will monitor the equalization of temperature on the ground floor and in different rooms second. And if the second floor is not used, simply block it off, or work in defrost mode.
Grandfather Jedi
02.02.2012, 14:46
zttt, Let's draw?
02.02.2012, 15:06
02.02.2012, 15:25
won't it be hot?
2nd floor is hot, 1st floor is cold
02.02.2012, 17:19
I don’t understand how the air from the floor of the 2nd floor will get into the furnace vent without being disturbed by the air of the first floor.
Andrey Dachnik
02.02.2012, 17:59
Cold air is heavier and will sink, displacing warm air.
02.02.2012, 18:16
Good question. I even began to imagine the whole process a little better while I was thinking about the answer to it.
The pressure in each pipe is proportional to the density difference. The density difference is a function of temperature and humidity. If we neglect humidity, then the pipes begin to work when a temperature difference arises between the ceilings and/or floors. Those. such a system should equalize the temperatures in both rooms. If the furnace is running and hot air accumulates under the ceiling, it begins to rise, and the air from the floor begins to be pushed down. If the furnace is not working, but the air near the floor of the second floor has cooled more than that of the floor of the first floor, then the exchange begins again and the temperature equalizes.
If we take into account humidity, the picture will be somewhat more complicated. There will definitely be a little more on the second floor high humidity. Perhaps this can be overcome by adjusting the height of the pipes, but you need to think about it.
02.02.2012, 18:32
But this is still purely theoretical reasoning.
02.02.2012, 18:48
By the way, in such a scheme you don’t even need to install dampers: the temperature itself should equalize. You just need to ensure the airtightness of the rooms on the top floor. Otherwise, all the warm air will go there, and it will be cold below.
exactly!
TIGHT!
Without this it’s a bit difficult... by the way, there’s also an ambush - warm air under the ceiling on the first floor heats the floor of the second floor... or should we insulate it here too?
although if fans are installed in the air ducts, all problems are solved. but as I understand it, this is an electrically independent concept.
02.02.2012, 20:17
Let the heat flow through the floor. Everything will be settled. I would like to avoid electricity.
03.02.2012, 11:59
I thought some more, did some digital wandering, and this is what comes out.
Flows depend very little on humidity. Within a couple of degrees with a difference in humidity from 0 to 100%.
The air speed in the pipes is quite stable and in most cases ranges from 1 to 3 meters per second. According to snips, no more than 5 m/s. There is no need to install pipes that are too thick. My bedrooms are approximately 25 cubic meters. With a pipe of 150, the air should be completely exchanged in about half an hour.
Both pipes work together only when fully indoors. In this case, there will be flow if for at least one pipe the temperature at the bottom is higher than the temperature at the top.
If the door is opened, the planned process is interrupted and the heat simply begins to escape upward. If it is warmer at the top than at the bottom, the ventilation stops. That is why you should not make very thick air ducts. So that when open door the air moving upward was slower.
In practice, the problem of upward movement of heat exists with absolutely any type of heating. The good thing about this system is that the heat exchange stops after the door is closed. After this, the stove, which is very powerful and heat-intensive since it must heat two floors, begins to heat only the lower floor. Top floor It gradually cools down on its own, because there are no heat sources there. Thus, gradually everything returns to normal and the temperatures level out.
In general, I really liked the system. If no one finds any obvious mistakes before the summer, then I’ll do just that. We just need to figure out how to isolate the two floors now. There was no door on the stairs.
Finally, a picture of the estimated air speeds in vertical pipe at different temperatures above and below. It depends little on the diameter, in this case it is 150 mm.
401
03.02.2012, 12:09
Well, the problem will not be solved this way. Essentially, a solution to the problem of air recovery through an inconvenient place.
Place a fan in one pipe, you don’t need a second one at all, the air will rise to the second floor anyway. The pipe exits to the furnace and forward. Turn on synchronously with the ignition of the stove. Electricity consumption is minimal; probably ten years of work will exceed the cost of laying a second pipe.
03.02.2012, 12:39
1. If the doors and windows are closed, then air will not flow through one pipe, even with a fan, even without a fan. Don't believe me? Try forcing air into the bottle. You can blow as much as you like, but you’d rather burst yourself than inflate it with warmth.
2. What are you going to do when the power goes out? Or are you going to fence the system uninterrupted power supply? Well, you see what unexpected expenses arose.
3. The heat itself goes up without any fans. I'm telling you: without fans, the flow rate is 1-3 meters per second. It's simply not possible anymore. And in general, people are complaining that without any radiators or fans, it’s hot upstairs, and downstairs it’s freezing cold. The task is not just to heat the second floor, but also to heat it so that it is comfortable, i.e. the temperature below and above was not much different.
4. In addition to heating, there is a ventilation problem. I don’t really understand how you will solve this with fans. The fans just stupidly mix good and bad air and it will be indiscriminately thrown out into the chimney. In total, it turns out that you will have a disgusting indoor climate with a fan, and the costs of ventilation (heating the exhaust air) will be quite considerable.
Grandfather Jedi
03.02.2012, 12:46
Electricity consumption is minimal; probably ten years of work will exceed the cost of laying a second pipe.
TB 10 (80 m3/h) - 20 W. So consider it.
True, there is no pressure in the air duct...
402
03.02.2012, 16:52
once again - in rattling rooms (or the entire 2nd floor), the system will work. if they are not airtight, it is hot on the second floor, cold on the first floor.
the cold at first can be overcome due to “radiant heating” from the stove. but the heat on the second - no way.
Grandfather Jedi
03.02.2012, 17:00
I’m glad that we got to this point before anyone invested their soul and money.
03.02.2012, 18:51
As I understand it, air must be supplied to the stove, which is already stale and spoiled, but where fresh air comes from is not discussed at all. The stove de facto burns even without pumping air.
The option of spontaneous mutual replacement of air between floors seems unrealistic, because there is always a way for warm air bypassing the pipe. Sealing floors belongs to the category of science fiction and nonsense. It’s also forbidden for children to run from floor to floor, because it’s not good...
Let’s say a pump, of course it won’t be able to pump 80 cubic meters per hour through a pipe, but the stove doesn’t need that much, because it’s not turbocharged, but regular.
The option of turning off the electricity while firing the stove is not critical, it will be heated anyway :). It seems more likely that it is not a power outage, but a lack of firewood.
03.02.2012, 19:03
the cold at first can be overcome due to “radiant heating” from the stove. but the heat on the second - no way.
This is exactly what I discussed in my answer above. Read it again carefully.
[Links are available to registered users only]
I'll just add...
1. Tightness is a relative concept. It is enough to keep the doors closed.
2. The system itself comes into balance after closing the doors, even if it became hot upstairs due to the forgetfulness of household members.
3. B radiator heating the problem of the hot second floor will not go away. It is the nature of warm air to rise. So you still need to isolate the second floor from the first with any heating system.
I actually found a catch, but it does not apply to this system. I just recalculated the heat loss again and it turns out that at -15 (the most common temperature) I will have about 4.5 kW, and at -35 (sometimes it happens) already somewhere around 7.5-8 kW. A stove with such parameters will not fit into the provided space (1.5x1.5m).
For now I’m looking towards the 16kW KIKsP. But I don’t like it because its heat-accumulating properties will be somewhat worse due to the lower temperature in the register area.
03.02.2012, 19:09
In general, it’s some kind of salad, well, at least read what the topikaster is talking about.
This primarily applies to you. Namely:
And where fresh comes from was not discussed at all
The first post in the topic:
The mechanism is as follows. Fresh dry street air is sucked in through the underground and the cracks between the stove and the floor, the surface of the wall heats this dry air...
The pump is only needed when the stove is heating up; the rest of the time it doesn’t really do anything except stir the air.
The option of turning off the electricity while firing the stove is not critical, it will be heated anyway
03.02.2012, 23:33
This primarily applies to you. Namely:
The first post in the topic:
In general, you have learned to criticize, now it’s time to learn to understand what you criticize.
It will be drowning. Only without electricity, the temperature on your first floor will rise to 60 degrees and all residents will suffer heatstroke if they do not retreat in time.
Well, okay, I missed that the air was coming from the floor, although this option in itself looks gloomy.
But about 60 degrees, it’s rare nonsense. Well, there is no electricity, open the doors (or are they electric?) and the heat will go upstairs.
In general, okay, the topic is far-fetched and uninteresting.
Grandfather Jedi
04.02.2012, 03:51
Air from the underground into the firebox is a successful and very common option. All you need is a gate
04.02.2012, 14:24
Good afternoon everyone!
I’ll make a reservation right away that I’m not particularly good at all sorts of formulas (sem heat, conduction heat, etc.). This is what I am ALL ABOUT!!! Interested! During combustion (combustion), air (oxygen) is needed, which is taken from the room in which the stove (boiler) is located, and it enters this room (by suction) from the street! That is, passing through everything that is not dense (doors, windows) it is heated by room air (thereby cooling it!!!). The stove intake is sucked into the air and flies out into the chimney!!!
The question is this: If we make a two-flow system for supplying air to the boiler??? Thus, we will achieve a closed air flow system (street - boiler - streets) and not (street - apartment - boiler - street)!!! We will get that the apartment will become like a thermos to hold warm air in itself and not filter it through itself!
Is such a system feasible? Its pros and cons???
For greater clarity, I drew a small model of the operating principle of the system.
Please write what you think about this! Thanks in advance!!!416
04.02.2012, 20:11
This is a perpetual motion machine. In terms of energy, you will not save on this.
The temperature of the exhaust gases should be about 120 degrees, otherwise condensation will form in the pipes. All modern furnaces and boilers are quite capable of providing exactly this temperature without any distortions with counterflows.
Now about double-circuit. In any case, the furnace requires air to operate. It is heated in the oven, which wastes energy, is burned and thrown out into the street.
Now you are isolating the flows to the furnace and inside the house. The air inside the house needs to be changed in the same way, since the residents saturate it carbon dioxide and water vapor. Those. you again need to suck in air from the street, heat it again and throw it out into the street again. As you can see, in this scheme the air is heated twice, whereas in the case of a stove only once.
In fact, double-circuit (without countercurrent) is used almost always when the boiler is located outside the heated room. Heating plants also burn fuel and air, which requires energy to heat. And in any room that is heated by a heating plant, ventilation operates, which again heats the air and again throws it out into the street.
Make the ventilation system in exactly the same way! In two streams! So, as far as I know, they do it in new energy-saving houses
This is called recovery. IN stove heating there is no point in it, because the air is not released into the street, but only smoke is released.
Nowadays there are a lot of people against the air from underground - like radon there is a hell of a lot, and therefore it is better to isolate the house from the underground if possible.
In fact, it is customary to ventilate the underground. And if you are afraid of radon, then the underground should not be made of earth, but at least the floor should be concreted. In any case, radon is a much less evil than a fan whirring in the room around the clock :)
