REPRODUCTION BY STEM CUTTINGS
Peonies are rarely propagated by stem cuttings due to the labor-intensive method and low yield of planting material. The reproduction rate depends very much on the variety and can reach 60-70%. Many varieties (especially interspecific hybrids) are not amenable to cuttings at all; on average they take root and produce a renewal bud of 15-25% of the total number of cuttings. The advantage of this propagation method is that it produces seedlings with a completely rejuvenated root system, while there is no need to dig up mother bushes for a number of years and can be used annually this method on the same bushes.
The best results are obtained by stem cuttings of bushes at the age of four to ten years. Three to five days before the buds open, 30-40% of the strongest flowering shoots are cut from the mother bush and cuttings are cut from them (Fig. 8). Usually, from the lower and middle parts of one stem, two or three cuttings with two internodes are obtained. The cuttings are cut very
with a sharp knife, as shown in the picture. The lower leaf is cut off, and part of the leaf blade is removed from the upper one to reduce moisture evaporation. The lower ends of the prepared cuttings are immersed in a fresh heteroauxin solution (one tablet per 1 liter of water) for 8-10 hours and the cuttings are placed in the shade. It is better to prepare them early in the morning. After treatment with heteroauxin, the cuttings are planted in a pre-prepared greenhouse, in the lower part of which a mixture of good garden soil, compost and rotted manure is poured to a depth of 30-40 cm, and on top - a layer of washed river sand 5-6 cm thick.
The cuttings are planted obliquely to a depth of 3-4 cm so that the cut of the bottom leaf is covered, but the leaves do not touch each other. The distance in the row is 8-10 cm, between the rows - 15-20 cm. Before planting, the soil in the greenhouse is thoroughly watered big amount water.
The optimal conditions for rooting at the first stage of life during the first month are maximum humidity and temperature 20-25°C. IN production conditions maximum humidity is created by artificial fog installations. For this purpose, we used a room electric humidifier, which was turned on during the day as needed, on average for 8-10 minutes per hour (Fig. 9, a). In the first two weeks, it is advisable not to raise the frames, and in hot weather, regulate the temperature inside the greenhouse by shading if it is located in a sunny place. After two weeks, you can begin to lift the frames for ventilation for 15-20 minutes, gradually increasing the time over the course of a month to several hours a day. One to one and a half months after planting, the frames can be left open during the day and closed only at night. To prevent fungal diseases, it is better to water it once a week with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and if signs of disease appear, spray it with copper oxychloride (50 g per 10 liters of water).
For the winter, the cuttings are left in a greenhouse. At the beginning of October, their above-ground part is cut off, the soil is mulched with peat and covered with a layer of leaves, straw or spruce branches. In the spring (usually at the end of April - beginning of May), the shelter is removed and the cuttings with the formed renewal buds (Fig. 9, b) with a lump of soil are transferred to previously prepared ridges. At first, the seedlings are regularly watered and shaded; after active growth begins, they are cared for as for ordinary plantings.
Greenhouse » CuttingsCuttings
Propagation by cuttings is the most common method vegetative propagation. Cuttings are a cut portion of a shoot, leaf or root that, when favorable conditions capable of forming a whole plant. At the same time, the newly grown plant is similar to the mother plant and often blooms and bears fruit earlier than plants grown from seeds. In order for the formation of the root system, stem and further formation of a new plant in the part separated from the mother plant to occur quickly and painlessly, it is necessary to maintain optimal conditions environment.
Stem cuttings
Stem cuttings require from 10 days to several weeks to form roots and begin to grow, depending on the type, variety and age of the mother plant. The younger the parent plant, the faster the cuttings form root system. This is one of the basic principles that guides the selection of material for cuttings. During the rooting period, optimal microclimate conditions should be maintained. To reduce water loss, all cuttings are stored in closed containers or propagation chambers.
The rate of root formation by stem cuttings depends on the ambient temperature. The higher the temperature within the range determined by physiological processes, the faster the chemical reactions, ensuring the formation of roots. But if the entire cutting is kept warm, its top will also begin to grow, and some of the nutrients will flow into the upper part of the cutting. Nutrient reserves may be depleted even before the cuttings are completely rooted. Therefore for different parts different conditions are created for the cutting: its lower part is placed in conditions of increased temperature, the upper part - reduced.
The value of the maintained temperatures in each specific case depends on the quality of the stem cutting and its reaction to water loss. When growing green cuttings in an uninhabited environment, maintain a temperature of about 21°C, in the air - as low as possible. These conditions are best created by a fogging unit with heating wires in the soil mixture. Semi-lignified and cuttings of evergreen plants are rooted under similar conditions, the only difference being that they require lower temperatures in the rooting environment. Cuttings of some plant species are successfully rooted in cold greenhouses or closed propagation chambers.
In all cases, conditions of sufficient humidity and aeration are necessary for the development of the root system. For rooting cuttings, John Innes soil mixture for seeds, peat mixtures for seeds and cuttings, and a mixture consisting of equal amounts of sand and peat moss are suitable. Cuttings of plants that are difficult to root are planted in coarse, well-washed sand. Sand, like peat, has virtually no nutrients. Therefore, throughout the entire period of rooting before transplanting into pots, it is necessary to feed the cuttings with liquid fertilizers with each watering. Already well-rooted cuttings are transplanted into pots.
Selection of cuttings
Cuttings are taken from young, healthy, actively growing plants. It is advisable to carry out preliminary short pruning of the mother plant in order to stimulate the regrowth of rapidly growing shoots, from which cuttings are cut. The rooting of cuttings is influenced by growth-regulating substances, which are hormones. Many cuttings contain a sufficient amount of natural hormone responsible for root formation processes. Nevertheless, for better rooting of cuttings, it is recommended to treat them with an appropriate hormonal preparation. The powder of such preparations contains a fungicide that prevents decay.
The ability of the selected material to form roots and shoots depends on the stage of its development. This fully applies to plants with woody stems. In some plants, cuttings rooted better are those separated from green growing shoots, while in others - from shoots that are lignified at the base or completely. There are four types of stem cuttings cut during the growing season: green actively growing, green, semi-lignified and lignified cuttings.
Green, actively growing cuttings are cut in the spring from the tops of rapidly growing young shoots. It is advisable to separate cuttings early in the morning, when cell turgor is maximum. If the cuttings are not used immediately after cutting, they should be placed in a bucket of water. The exception is zonal pelargoniums, which are best left for 24 hours in a shaded place. The length of the cutting should be 7-8 cm. A clean, even cut is made directly under the node or bud. All leaves from the lower third - half of the cutting are removed. A 10-15 cm layer of soil mixture is poured into the propagation chamber or pots are filled with it. If only a few cuttings are taken from each type of plant, in order to optimally use the space, choose pots with a diameter of 8-10 cm. This is especially convenient when there is enough time for rooting of the cuttings. The cuttings are placed in soil mixture about a third of their length, they are beaten and the pot is placed in a propagation chamber, preferably with soil heating. Green, actively growing cuttings tolerate loss of water very painfully. A fog-forming installation creates favorable humidity for them. The temperature of the soil mixture should be maintained within 21-24°C. The planted cuttings are sprayed with a fungicide solution and this treatment is repeated at least once a week. Green cuttings are separated from the tops of young shoots in early summer, after the spring wave of growth has died down; Such cuttings do not show any signs of lignification. Actually green cuttings differ from green, actively growing cuttings in having a lower growth rate. Rooting of green cuttings is carried out in a heated propagation chamber or in a fogging installation. Semi-lignified cuttings are cut at the end of shoots that are already woody at the base. Semi-lignified cuttings are rooted in low light conditions and at lower temperatures than green cuttings. Therefore, they can be successfully grown in cold greenhouses.
The length of the cuttings should be 10-15 cm. When cutting a cutting, it is advisable to leave the heel. To do this, pull the selected side shoot down like this. so that part of the main stem of the cotton plant splits off. If an excessively long “tail” has formed at the heel, it is shortened with a clean, even cut. Leaves from the lower third of the cutting are cut off. The lower cut of the cutting is treated with a powder containing a growth regulator; the cuttings are planted in the soil mixture at about a third of their length and watered with a diluted fungicide solution. Semi-lignified cuttings selected at the end of summer are left in a cold greenhouse until the next season. Active growth of cuttings is supported by regular feeding liquid fertilizer. In autumn, young plants are dug up and replanted. Lignified cuttings during management greenhouse farming are selected relatively rarely, although this cutting method is applicable for bougainvillea and some other shrubs and climbing plants with a pronounced dormant period. These cuttings are harvested during the dormant period, when growth has completely stopped and the stems have become lignified. Cut 15-cm cuttings from completely lignified shoots of the mother plant, which has already lost its leaves. The lower cut of the cutting is treated with a powdered growth regulator preparation and placed in a closed greenhouse inside the greenhouse. About half the length of the cutting is left above the surface of the soil mixture. Lignified cuttings, even if they do not have leaves, nevertheless lose some amount of water due to evaporation from the entire surface of the shoot. Most often, the absence of newly formed roots in cuttings is explained by their drying out. Reduced water loss
achieved by deepening the cuttings into the soil as much as possible. However, if planted very deeply, bud break may be impaired. Therefore, at least 3 buds should be left above the soil surface. Conditions of low temperature are created for the upper part of the cutting, thereby delaying the blooming of dormant buds and the outflow of energy from developing roots.
Leaf cuttings
Leaf cuttings can be obtained from any stem. It consists of a leaf, a bud located in its axil and a very short piece of stem. The leaf supplies the substances necessary to maintain the life of the cutting and regeneration processes; the stem of a new plant grows from the bud; the first roots appear on a small section of the stem
To select bud cuttings, it is advisable to use young shoots that have appeared after severe pruning of the mother plant. In this case, select shoots with intact, fully formed leaves and viable axillary buds.
The cut is made as close to the bud as possible, trying, if possible, not to leave a stump. This reduces the likelihood of it rotting or dying. The lower cut is made 2.5-4 cm from the upper one, so that a sufficient part of the stem remains to firmly anchor the cutting in the soil mixture. To stimulate root formation, the lower end of the cutting is usually treated with growth regulators. The cuttings are planted so that the bud is at the level of the soil mixture. Cuttings of more hardened plants are grown in a cold greenhouse, less frost-resistant ones - in propagation chambers or in a fog-forming installation. Large leaves on cuttings of some plants, such as elastic ficus, can create a tipping moment. Therefore, they place a stick supporting them nearby. Sometimes it is inserted into a sheet folded and secured with an elastic band. Grape bud cuttings are essentially equivalent to woody psyllid cuttings. They are selected when the vine or other woody climbing plants The leaves have already been shed. Cuttings are cut from grapevine in the manner described above. They are laid horizontally, leaving one eye (bud) above the surface. If the plant is difficult to take root, they resort to wounding the cuttings on the side of the stem opposite to the bud. Pots with cuttings are labeled and placed on a greenhouse rack or in closed chamber. The higher the temperature, the faster the regeneration processes occur. The moisture required for cuttings is provided by watering. In winter, when the cuttings are dormant, excessive watering can lead to waterlogging of the soil mixture and cause rotting and death of the plants. In the spring, rooted cuttings are hardened off, labeled and replanted.
Separated sections of the stem
With age, some greenhouse plants, such as Dieffenbachia dragonfruit and cordyline, become “leggy”: the lower part of the stem loses their foliage. Plants lose their attractiveness and are cut back to soil level. However, the top of the stem can be used for propagation by cuttings. The bare part of the stem is cut into cuttings 4-5 cm long, which, after treating with a fungicide solution, are stuck into the substrate vertically or laid horizontally and completely covered with a 1.5 cm layer of soil mixture. When placing the cutting vertically, make sure its orientation is correct, it should correspond to the direction on the mother plant. Each cutting has several dormant buds, 1-3 of which can produce aerial shoots.
Evergreen cuttings
For cuttings of evergreen plants, shoots with well-ripened wood are used. Unlike lignified cuttings, they retain leaves and dormancy is shallow. And because the cuttings have leaves, strict control of environmental conditions is necessary to prevent excess water loss. Cuttings are taken at the end of summer - beginning of autumn from a previously (in winter) pruned plant. Roots usually form in winter period. The length of the cuttings should be 10-15 cm. If rooting takes place in unsterilized soil in a cold greenhouse or in a tunnel made of polyethylene film, the handle is taken with the “heel” (do not forget to carefully trim its tail). If a bud has already formed at the top of the cutting, it is left. If the vegetative growth of the shoot continues, its soft tip is cut off with a knife. Leaves are removed from the lower third of the cutting. A shallow vertical cut 2-3 cm long is made in the lower part of the cuttings of difficult-to-root plants. The base of the cutting is treated with growth stimulator powder.
The cuttings are planted in the soil mixture up to the leaves in a cold greenhouse or in a fog-forming installation. The leaves of the cuttings may touch, but should not overlap each other. To create cool, moist conditions, the greenhouse is shaded until the light intensity begins to decrease (closer to winter). The cuttings are left in the greenhouse for the entire next growing season. Cuttings grown in a fog-forming installation are carefully planted in pots in the spring, trying not to damage the roots. Evergreens can also be propagated from cuttings with softer wood taken early in the growing season. Depending on the maturation of the wood, they are treated as green and semi-lignified cuttings, respectively.
Coniferous plants
Some coniferous trees, with the exception of spruce, pine and fir, can be propagated by cuttings. For this purpose they use warm chamber for reproduction, and a cold greenhouse. Cuttings are taken in autumn and winter from young, actively growing shoots.
Almost all plants can be cut, which is what allowed this method to become very popular in the life of gardeners. In addition, plants propagated in this way are almost always similar to their parents and bloom faster than those grown from seeds.
A cutting is a part of a plant. In some plants, any part can be used in this capacity, in others only a few are suitable. The main types of cuttings will be described here.
Stem cuttings.
These are parts of the stem, shoots. U different types Plants have different ways of preparing these cuttings. For example, at herbaceous plants Stem cuttings are simply torn off with your fingers. It is best to take it from the apical shoots, then it will bloom faster.
A stem cutting is a part of a stem. Many plants are propagated with their help, and you need to know how to take a stem cutting correctly. If the plant is herbaceous, then the stem is simply torn off, trying to use the apical shoot for this. If the plant is coniferous, then the stem cutting is taken from the main shoot or axillary shoots, and it must have a couple of leaves and a bud. From woody plants annuals or biennials are chosen for propagation because their likelihood of survival is high (unlike old woody plants).
Depending on the type of leaves, the process of obtaining cuttings also varies. For example, it is recommended to dry stem cuttings of plants with fleshy leaves (as well as cacti) for several hours to make the rooting process easier. If the leaves are large, then they need to be cut in half so that the cuttings do not lose a lot of moisture. Finally, if the plant contains milky juice, after cutting, the cutting is placed in water for a couple of hours so that the juice flows out of it, since otherwise the cutting may begin to rot.
Individual plants reproduce better by pieces of the stem. Most often these are plants with thick stems. Choose a stem that is old enough, cut it and divide it into 5 cm sections, so that each section certainly has a node. Then they need to be planted in the soil vertically (so that the buds look up) or horizontally (a couple of centimeters).
Leaf cuttings.
For some plants, propagation by stem cuttings is impossible due, for example, to the short length of the stem. Therefore, you can pay attention to the leaves of such a plant. To propagate a plant by leaf cuttings, you need to select an adult and healthy leaf with a petiole up to 5 cm. It is recommended to choose at the base of the plant. After choosing, tear off the leaf, cut off part of the petiole with a sharp knife or razor and treat with root for better rooting. Then plant it in the ground.
U citrus plants and roses, when propagating in this way, take a leaf that has a bud, and also cut off the part of the stem to which the leaf is attached. And they drop her off with her.
Lilies and similar plants can be propagated not only by leaves, but also by scales of bulbs, because they are modified leaves. The leaves themselves can be planted halfway into the soil, and the scales can be planted a little deeper in the sand and constantly watered, ensuring a temperature of 16-18 degrees. They do this in the fall.
Streptocarpus and Sansevieria can also be propagated by parts of a leaf, for which the leaf must be cut into five-centimeter pieces and planted in sandy soil. They should not be watered too much, and the temperature should be high enough. After some time, a bud will appear, from which a new plant will grow.
In leaf cuttings of begonias, the largest liquid leaves are cut from below, the cutting is placed with these cuts down and pressed lightly.
When the plant takes root, you need to move the cutting to a vertical position (if it was not so).
Root cuttings.
Such propagation is possible if the plant produces root suckers. They need to be cut into 5 cm pieces and buried a couple of cm into the ground. To do this, take regular sand (but well washed), pour it into a pot and make holes there for the roots. Sprinkle cutting sections charcoal, so that it does not rot, and then stick it into the sand and slightly compact the soil around it so that it does not fall. After this, the sand can be watered (if the plant requires it) and covered with polyethylene.
Before rooting, callus appears at the site of the cut - tissue necessary for the plant to heal wounds. It is from this that new roots appear (or just above it). But root cuttings of some plants do not develop new roots well, so you need to use special drugs to encourage this. If the drug is intended for propagation, then usually the cuttings are kept at the specified dose for a couple of days (but read the packaging!) and planted. Powder products are immediately applied to the cut..
Rooting conditions vary from plant to plant. For example, tropical plants needed elevated temperature, whereas for plants in temperate climates there is no such need. But the humidity usually needs to be high, which is why they put a bag on top that allows you to maintain the humidity. The plant that is still taking root must be sprayed. The package, of course, is removed after rooting.
The cutting also needs ventilation, but not very much: a young cutting only needs to be without a bag a few times a day, and that’s all. In the future, the plant must be ventilated more often.
As a rule, cuttings love shade, but adult plants have their own conditions.
And, of course, after rooting, replant the plant as soon as possible, because it cannot grow constantly in the oven. As soon as the plant begins to take root, immediately prepare a container with soil for it.
Cuttings are one of the most common and interesting ways reproduction indoor plants. Most often, a fragment of a stem or leaf is used as a cutting, which will subsequently take root. The method is based on the fact that a fragment of a stem (stem cutting), a piece of root (root cutting) or leaf (leaf cutting) is capable of forming new roots and buds. When cutting indoor plants, so-called green cuttings with a thin stem are distinguished, taken from non-lignified stems and woody and semi-woody cuttings, already hard at the base, but still with a soft top.
Stem cuttings. A large number of indoor plants are propagated by stem cuttings: geranium, lemon, oleander, ficus, fuchsias, ivies, begonias, tradescantia, monstera, phyllodendrons, indoor roses and many others, as well as plants with dense, fleshy, but not too lignified stems: dracaena, dieffenbachia, cordyline, yucca...
For a stem cutting, it is important that at least one growth point is captured, which forms a new shoot. If the apical cutting is cut off, then most likely the apical bud will grow. But if a cutting is cut without a top, then in this case you need to be careful. There must be at least one node on the cutting. If a cutting is cut without nodes, only internodes, then it will not produce a new shoot. Cuttings cannot be cut to the ground. If, as a result of cuttings, not a single node remains on the plant or in any part of it, the plant will stop growing.
A cutting cut from the mother plant should lead an independent life for some time. To do this, it needs leaves that will produce photosynthetic products necessary for the growth of roots and new shoots. However, the leaves evaporate moisture and until roots have formed, the flow of moisture into the plant is difficult. Therefore, very large leaves can be shortened somewhat. If the leaves are small or leathery and lose little moisture, then they should not be shortened. Lower leaves They must be completely removed from the cutting, since they do not perform the function of photosynthesis and are not needed by the plant.
Plants with dense, fleshy, but not too lignified stems: dracaena, dieffenbachia, cordyline, yucca are also propagated by stem cuttings, only the bare part of the stem is cut into several parts 3-5 cm long and rooted vertically or horizontally in the substrate. You should choose a young and strong stem, cut off the apical bunch of leaves and let it take root in the usual way, like the apical cutting. Cut the remaining bare part of the stem into several equal parts 3-5 cm long.
Use a razor blade or sharp budding knife. The cut must be clean, precise and smooth. Each part should have at least 2-3 buds, thickened places where leaves once grew. This is where the dormant buds are located. Insert the cuttings vertically into the substrate for young plants, observing the direction of growth of the stem, or place them on the substrate, deepening them halfway. To facilitate the emergence of roots, lightly cut the bark on the side that is in contact with the substrate and sprinkle thin layer hormonal powder.
Water, place the cuttings in a mini-greenhouse or cover with transparent film. Keep the cuttings at 22-25 degrees and dim light. Young shoots should appear in about 1.5-2 months. Gradually remove the plastic or glass lid, keep the cuttings warm and spray frequently.
The main thing is that before propagating the plant by cuttings, purchase sharp pruning shears or sharpen the knife better so as not to harm the mother crop. And then follow the instructions described below!
What is cuttings and what is its essence?
What is cuttings and why do gardeners resort to this agricultural technique? Cuttings are the process of obtaining young plants from pieces of the stem of the mother crop. This is probably the simplest, fastest and effective method plant propagation. There are methods of cutting with root segments or pieces of leaf, but we will put this exoticism aside: it is applicable for a very narrow range of plants. The main method for woody plants is cuttings from semi-lignified shoots in early summer.
The essence of vegetative propagation of plants by cuttings is that at a certain point in development, pieces of young shoots can form their own roots and become independent plants.
As you can see in the photo, when propagated by cuttings from a uterine (adult, large) plant, you can get many young ones:
This is especially important, for example, when creating a hedge.
When cuttings, the ability to form roots in different breeds different. Some plants are easy to take cuttings (,), cuttings of others are always doomed to failure (pine, larch, oak). The latter are propagated by grafting or sowing seeds.
How to properly propagate plants from cuttings
- Tear off the cuttings “with the heel”.
- Carefully remove needles/leaves and side branches from the lower half.
- Bury the cuttings halfway into the soil at a slightly inclined angle.
- Water generously.
- Cover with half the bottle, pressing it firmly into the ground.
- Water according to the weather, avoiding drying out.
- In spring, remove the bottle and plant the cuttings.
Very big number garden plants cuttings are taken. Actually, this is why they are widespread: they are decorative and easy to propagate in short time. You can take advantage of this too! It is enough to get hold of cuttings.
If this is not possible, then we take it into our hands sharp knife or pruning shears and make a cut 0.5-1 cm below the node (the place where leaves or side branches extend from the stem). Why there? The fact is that substances that provoke the formation of roots accumulate in plants in precisely such places.
The length of the cutting depends on the specific species. In general, this is 20-30 cm. Remove all leaves and side branches from the lower half. Our cutting is ready.
But even if you know how to propagate plants from cuttings, do not forget to take care to create the necessary conditions for the germination of a young shoot.
Conditions and timing of plant propagation by cuttings
Roots form in a humid environment, and the “tops” of the cutting must also be kept in 100% humidity conditions. After all, they do not have roots for some time, and in a dry environment without their support, the leaves and then the stem will dry out and the cutting will die.
The easiest way to maintain such conditions for propagating plants is by cuttings in a greenhouse. If there is no greenhouse, you can make a micro-greenhouse from half a large one plastic bottle. This is the most cost-effective way.
It is believed that loose soil is necessary for cuttings. poor soil(a mixture of sand and peat in half is recommended). However, in practice, easily-cutting species take root just as easily in ordinary garden soil.
IN shady place, which will not be an eyesore, we loosen and free from weeds required area, make inclined holes in the ground with a peg, half the depth of the cuttings, and immerse the cuttings in the holes. When all the cuttings are buried, the cuttings need to be watered generously. After this, we cover groups of cuttings with half bottles or the entire group with a transparent film over a rigid frame.
The optimal period for propagating plants by cuttings is June. The soil in the cuttings must be kept moist for the rest of the season (drying out = death of the cuttings). Even if the cuttings have started to grow, do not rush to plant them. It's better to wait for autumn, or even better - spring.
Using cuttings you can get, for example, hedge from thuja, bladderwort or derena, as well as a lot of other beautiful trees and shrubs for the garden. It takes one season for the cuttings to acquire roots, another 2-4 years - and you have a full-fledged bush in your garden.
Watch the video “Plant propagation by cuttings” to visualize how this agricultural technique is performed:
