Wiring in the garage from a home outlet. Wiring in the garage. Installation methods. Scheme and materials. In cooperative garages

A well-equipped container for a car or other transport must have well-thought-out electrical wiring. And even if someone managed to establish an apartment (home) electrical network, or repair more than one device with their own hands, there is no need to rush to work. First you need to find out everything and thoroughly understand what exactly needs to be done.

Peculiarities

Electricity is always needed in the garage. Even those who do not intend to repair their car or motorcycle are forced to recharge batteries there and illuminate the room in the dark. If the garage is also used for repairs or car maintenance, you will have to sharpen tools, drill and cut, grind, solder, weld metal... But the inevitable placement of fuel and lubricants, constant dampness and contact with the ground require wiring to be done very carefully.

Not every garage owner has enough free time and knowledge to study building codes and rules for electrical installations. Unlike electrical work in a house or apartment, you must obtain permission from the board of the garage cooperative or from the owner of the rented parking space. Connection to three-phase networks at 0.4 kV will also require approval from the electricity supplier; the same organization must draw up a project based on your application.

Important Requirements

Using a 220 V network imposes much fewer restrictions on the garage owner. However, he must purchase a meter that can handle 50 amps of electricity and the appropriate cables. Ensuring the load current margin is closely monitored by energy supervision. If violations are detected, he has the right to issue an order to dismantle the illegal electrical network and even impose a fine on “initiative electricians.”

It is possible to conduct electricity from the house by overhead and underground methods.

Cables are suspended in the air, held by a supporting steel wire with a diameter of 0.3 cm. According to current standards, underground lines are supposed to be pulled in corrugated plastic pipes, laid in trenches 0.8 m deep. The bottom of the excavation is sprinkled with sand (0.1 m layer). A similar line is connected to a personal meter, and the segment is protected using a special machine.

To distribute electrical energy, they use a special electrical panel installed directly in the garage itself. A main automatic machine is provided for it, the same type as that installed in the apartment (house). These requirements are key, and all other points depend on the scheme used.

Installation diagram

A high-quality, well-designed electrical circuit is the main guarantee of successful operation. It is important to distinguish between so-called circuit diagrams and layout diagrams; the first describes the electrical circuit itself, and the second describes the location of consumers (with a mark on distances or with an exact scale). For maximum convenience and to avoid errors, wires are designated by the same colors that they have in real life.

Phase conductors in networks are at dangerous voltages in relation to the ground. But there is no way to connect an RCD without a protective ground.

Residual current devices are differential transformers, adding the input (from the phase) and exported (through the neutral) currents. If the insulation is damaged, when a short circuit to the housing occurs, these currents differ and do not cancel each other out.

Protection against leakage current will work successfully only if it is directed along its own special grounding line. Using the main circuit breaker, you can de-energize the network when short circuits occur on the main line or when all lines are simultaneously overloaded. This device is indispensable during repairs, when testing the system, and when troubleshooting problems in it.

Separate groups are connected to “their” machines in phase circuits. The busbars located in the shields are structurally made as strips or bars of copper or brass. Holes are made in them for wires that are tightened with screws.

An electrician's work with a three-phase garage network does not have significant differences from the procedure already described. It is only worth mentioning two auxiliary phases and built-in circuit breakers, RCDs instead of the usual ones designed for one phase. The phases are routed as in conventional 220 V lines, together with the neutral. The voltage of any pair of phases should be 380 V, with a uniform load phase angle of 120 degrees.

To build a power grid correctly, you will need:

• create a diagram with clear and precise images (notations);
• mark vertical fragments wiring with “+” signs with assigned height;
• strictly observe the selected signs for sockets, lamps and other elements.

Once the circuits are completed, you can begin assembling the garage electrical network.

Selection of cables and wires

When selecting any cable and wire, you should focus on a voltage of 230 V (it is replacing the old 220 V and will soon become a generally accepted standard).

In most cases it is assumed that:

• ceiling lights are rated at 80 W each;
• V inspection hole 3 36 V lamps of 0.1 kW each were installed;
• The same pit contains sockets for connecting working electrical equipment for a total of 5 kW.

Starting from the transformer, it is worth using closed format copper wire.

If at least part of it is carried out inside a concrete floor, you need a core with a cross-section of 4.5 square meters. mm. For sockets in the inspection hole, closed wires with a cross-section of 1 square meter are used. mm more. More detailed information about the properties of electrical wiring in relation to your garage can always be obtained using special formulas. The thinnest cable is used to connect ceiling lights - 1.5 sq. mm (thinner does not exist).

To save money, it makes sense to buy aluminum wires, especially for the least congested areas.

As in any other room, you should not mix copper and aluminum - this also needs to be taken into account when selecting wiring. Compensate harmful effects Only double-insulated cables with insulating conductors can withstand negative conditions in garages.

The selection of machines is carried out “by current”. For ceiling light sources you need 2.5 A, for pit light sources - 15 A. The formula for calculating the required transformer power is the same as usual. A residual current device designed for a passing current of less than 20 A and to operate at more than 20 mA is completely unsuitable, because leakage from working devices is almost imperceptible.

To place cables and buses you will need:

• shields closed type;
• boxes;
• cable channels;
• sealed trays.

Most often, such products are made of metal, but round and rectangular pipes made of plastic. Corrugated products should be used only as a last resort; using them is quite tedious. The most modern and practical solution Electricians consider a cable tray to have a snap-on lid. Metal-plastic pipes performed quite well - the same ones that are usually used in plumbing and heating systems.

Installation technology

Having purchased everything necessary materials and tools, you can start pulling the wiring. Where it is not possible to make a bend in the form of a large radius of pipes, it is worth using boxes. They will help distribute branches and arrange switches properly. The boxes, connecting pipes and pipes should be secured to load-bearing structures as carefully as possible. Responsible garage owners, both those who install wiring themselves and those who turn to professionals, always evaluate the tightness of the joints of any pipe and box.

It is important to remember that even the simplest materials and structures carefully thought out by engineers are installed only with careful, painstaking work.

To correctly pull a cable through a pipe means to first insert the wire inside. For this purpose, special heads are used that will prevent jamming and pinching. Only then comes the turn of tying the cable to the wire and passing it through the pipe. It is advisable to use trays on vertical segments of wiring; ceiling lamps are suspended on tensioned cables (not under voltage!).

To make the fastening of the wires in the boxes reliable, it is recommended to either clamp them with screws or solder strands of copper. Where aluminum and copper wires have to be joined, they are separated with terminals or washers made of other metals. Much attention should be paid to grounding. Not a single step-by-step instruction for installing wiring in a garage can ignore it.

The typical sequence of work is as follows:

1. Near capital structure driven into the ground steel pipe, coated with a zinc layer, 2 m long;
2. a round steel block with a diameter of 0.6-0.8 cm is welded to this pipe;
3. a circle of steel is painted with hydrophobic paint and brought into the garage;
4. it must be laid to the shield, next to which the terminal is placed;
5. Behind the terminal there is a thick copper wire (thickness is the key to low resistance).

Since the garage is a damp and dangerous room, where the risk of electric shock is high, it is therefore worth choosing sockets and lighting fixtures that meet the IP44 protection class.

To make a full-fledged workshop, you will have to install three-phase wiring based on copper cable, the cross-section of which is at least 6 square meters. mm. The cable is installed so that it is at least 11 cm from the ceiling, and the socket and the floor must be separated by 50 cm. It is advisable to maintain a gap of at least 15 cm between the installation and the heating pipes.

Many garages are equipped with a cellar, and this part of the room also requires special lighting, that is, laying wires and connecting them to lighting fixtures. The cellar is already a damp space where you have to install the electrical network with the utmost care. And when it is also located in a garage, the severity of the requirements only increases. Step-down transformers with an output current of 12 V should be used. Only after making sure that the room is completely dry, it is permissible to use standard 220 V electricity.

It is advisable to show the garage to an experienced electrician before starting work and agree with him on the purchase of all components. This will allow you to take into account the specifics of the network being created as accurately as possible, and avoid errors in its construction and operational failures.

According to those who have already had to create hidden wiring in the garage, the most The best decision- this is to stretch cable ducts from non-combustible materials. Smooth surface from the inside it is much more convenient than a corrugated sleeve. If the wiring suddenly fails, you can always open a small section of the wall and replace the burnt-out wire or even part of the channel.

As important as electrical wiring is, you also need to make sure there is a window in the garage.

With its help, natural light is provided and the most economical mode of use of devices is maintained. This means that the same wires and distribution units will last longer.

Even in simple garage lighting is necessary, but if the wiring is installed on a quick fix, it would be unreasonable to expect it to be reliable and fireproof. When creating proper working conditions in this room, one must not neglect the rules for working with electrical wiring, otherwise the consequences can be the most unpredictable. In this article we will tell you how to do electrical wiring in the garage with your own hands, adhering to the standards and regulations.

Types of garages and methods of connecting to power supply

Depending on where the garage is located, the way it is connected to the electrical supply may vary.

In cooperative garages

In auto cooperatives, each garage has a power supply, the condition of which must be taken care of by an electrician, but as for indoor wiring, here you can improvise, of course, within the permissible limits. Therefore, you will have to develop an individual wiring diagram, taking into account the allocated or maximum permissible power.

Find out what power the machine is installed at the input. If 10 A, then you can only count on the fact that in the garage, in addition to lighting, it will be possible to connect a low-power drill, grinder and the like to the network, and even then not at the same time. When the input machine is designed for an operating current of 16 A, then it will be possible to use low-power household electric welding for a short time. With a 25 A circuit breaker installed, there will be no special power restrictions.

In a private house

As a rule, the garage of a private house is connected to the power supply through a common circuit breaker. When calculating the power of electrical equipment that will be connected in the garage, it is necessary to take into account the power consumption of appliances located in the house. If this is not just a garage, but a car repair shop in which electric welding work will be carried out, then the do-it-yourself electrical wiring diagram in the garage should include a separate 220 or 380 V line.

Making a wiring diagram

To properly create a wiring diagram, make a list of electrical appliances that you plan to use in the garage. The number of lamps and their location must be taken into account.

If the garage is used only for parking and minor car repairs, then there is no need for a large number of sockets and lamps, but you also don’t need to save much. Above the workbench or near the entrance, you can install several sockets and a two-key switch so that you can divide the lighting lines into groups.

A multi-use garage should have good lighting and plenty of conveniently located outlets. It is also necessary to ensure safe lighting of the inspection pit.

What to include in the diagram?

Any garage must have an RCD (residual current device) installed. Although this device is not cheap, it will protect the owner from electric shock. The rated current of the RCD must be selected in accordance with the load current of the electrical wiring line, otherwise the device may not operate at the right time.

Also, do not save on purchasing circuit breakers– it is better that each line is connected separately. Of course, it is necessary to take into account the total power of the connected devices so that the cross-section of the wire to be laid can be calculated.

Simple scheme

Often, owners of garages used only for car storage are limited to installing a paired circuit breaker at the entrance, one or two sockets and several lamps, which are controlled by a single-key switch. This scheme has its advantages: to pick up a car from the garage or put it there, you just need to turn on one switch, and the light will be on throughout the entire room.

One socket is connected directly to the machines, the second is included in the same circuit with the lamps. When leaving the garage, you can be sure that when you turn off the lights, you have cut off the power to the distant outlet. Even if the garage owner accidentally forgets to turn off the charger, it will turn off along with the light. The simplicity of the design implies some limitations. So, all 4 lamps will turn on at the same time, and the second socket is only suitable for powering low-power devices through it, otherwise the switch contacts will burn out.

Now let's consider electrical diagram garage with inspection hole. There are 5 lines coming from the input electrical panel:

1. Socket group 1.
2. Socket group 2.
3. Lighting group 1.
4. Lighting group 2.
5. Lighting of the inspection pit.

The electrical panel contains an input circuit breaker, an RCD and several circuit breakers - each for its own group. As for the lighting of the inspection pit, it is carried out through a transformer that reduces the voltage to 12 or 36V.

Video: wiring diagrams

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On the Internet you can find photos of a wide variety of electrical wiring diagrams in the garage.

Purchasing consumables

Having drawn up a diagram, purchase everything you need to complete the work. We will do this thoroughly and for a long time, so we will consider installation hidden wiring. To be fair, there are other ways to run wires in the garage that you can read about.

In order not to waste precious time and effort in vain, purchase or rent a wall chaser and a hammer drill with a set of drills and a concrete bit, the diameter of which will allow you to install socket boxes and distribution boxes in the holes cut with it. We won’t even talk about a chisel and a hammer, since such a tool should be in any garage.

For further work you will need:

• Distribution panel – 1 pc.
• Electricity meter – 1 pc. (if needed).
• RCD – 1 pc.
• Socket boxes - according to the number of mortise switches and sockets.
• Distribution boxes - in each place where there will be a outlet for sockets and switches.
• Automatic switches - type and quantity according to the diagram. It may be necessary to install some machines separately, for example, near grinding machine, compressor, etc.
• Wiring. It is better to purchase a copper three-core wire. For lighting - 1.5 mm2. For sockets - 2.5 mm2. For wiring in the garage to the panel - 4 mm2. Quantity - according to the scheme + 10% for unaccounted terminals in distribution boxes and socket boxes. In order to power more powerful consumers, it is recommended to install a separate wiring line from distribution panel to the right place.
• Corrugated PVC pipes for electrical wiring. The diameter and quantity are selected to match the existing wiring. If the wiring will pass through flammable materials, then a metal corrugated pipe should be laid in such places.
• If there is a point in the garage for connecting 380V electrical equipment, then you need to take care of purchasing a specific outlet and the appropriate cable.
• Sockets. Their number should be sufficient for convenient use. It is important to remember that there can be several lamps above the workbench - they can be connected either through junction boxes or directly into sockets.
• Switch. Someone prefers to turn off the lighting in the garage with one switch, another likes to divide it into several groups, and a third installs a switch under each lamp - everyone can do it in a way that is convenient for them to use.

You can make a distribution panel yourself, like the author of this video:

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Installation

It is quite possible to install electrical wiring in a garage with your own hands, as you will now see.

So, the diagram is there, the tools and materials are prepared - you can start working.

• We will mark the walls in the places where the wiring will pass, and switches, sockets and distribution boxes will be installed. It is important to remember that laying the wire obliquely is undesirable. Then, if you need to fix something on the wall, it will be difficult to determine where the wire runs in the wall - it is better to make all the bends at right angles.
• After marking the walls, check the diagram again to make sure nothing is missing.
• Drive the car into the garage and check if the sockets and lights are conveniently located. If not, then mark the places where it would be better to install them. Will a light mounted on the ceiling or wall adequately illuminate the engine so that the oil level can be checked.
• Now the car is not needed, and it is better if it is located outside the garage.
• All holes for distribution boxes and socket boxes are made using a suitable size crown.
• According to the applied markings, the grooves are cut out, then the excess is removed with a hammer drill. construction material by cutting depth. The result should be a groove in which the intended for it will hide. corrugated pipe.

Now you can carry out electrical wiring in the garage, with step-by-step instructions to help. Let’s immediately make a reservation that professionals first lay the corrugation in the wall, install the socket boxes, and then tighten the cable. But if this is the first time you are laying electrical wiring in a garage with your own hands, then it is better to adhere to the technology we propose.

• Having bent the end of the wire protruding from the corrugation, the corrugation itself is placed in the groove so that it fits into the socket boxes.
• The marked piece of corrugation is cut off, and the end of the wire is bent so that it does not fall inside.
• Then the wire is threaded into the corrugation so that there are free ends on both sides - 15 centimeters each. You can learn more about this process by watching the video.

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• The corrugation with the wire is placed in the groove and covered with alabaster. Similar actions are performed with the remaining wire.
• Then the wire along with the corrugation is inserted into the sockets/distribution boxes, and only after that they are installed and secured with alabaster. In those places where lamps will be installed on the wall, the wire is simply routed out.
• After installing the input panel, the wires are connected to the machines. To make it easier to navigate and not confuse anything, each wire must be labeled, indicating what it is intended for in this circuit.

When wiring in a garage is done by a non-specialist, problems often arise with connecting the RCD. A selection of two videos will help you avoid mistakes when connecting this device.

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• After connecting the wires, it is advisable to check again whether everything is assembled correctly in the panel.
• Now you can turn on the introductory machine, then the RCD and all the machines in turn.
• If the installation is done correctly, then all connection points should work.

As you can see, even a non-professional can cope with this work. If, after reading this, you still continue to doubt your abilities and your palms begin to sweat at the mere thought of working with electricity, then it’s better to invite a specialist.

In which we examined in detail a video lesson and photo examples of electrical installation work. Now I would like to talk more about what the wiring diagram in a 220 V garage should be, because... the process of distributing electricity begins with it.

To begin with, we present to your attention detailed instructions to create a diagram with your own hands:

1. The first thing you need to do is count the number of sockets, lamps and switches in the room.
2. Next, you need to consider the installation height of each element. For example, it is recommended to install sockets at a height of 1 meter, switches at a height of 1.5 meters, and a distribution box under the ceiling (20 cm from the ceiling).
3. After this, the plan is transferred to paper. It is best to use a photocopy of the garage plan, because... In this documentation, all dimensions of the room are accurately observed.

That, in fact, is all you need to know in order to do it yourself!

We draw your attention to the fact that if there is an inspection hole in the room, sockets and switches must be moved outside it for safety reasons, because the pit is always damp.

Below you see standard version electrical panel for a garage with 380V wiring (three phases) for connecting machines or a compressor and main wiring for 220V . Taking into account the machine for connecting a step-down transformer 220/12V:

And here is the wiring diagram in the garage for 220V:

One of the options for wiring in the garage:

Some explanations for the last option:

1. To turn on different lighting groups, you can use a two-key switch or two single-key switches.
2. In the inspection pit there is a separate safety lighting with 12V lamps, which is connected to a step-down transformer. Among ready-made solutions pay attention to nuclear fuel technology.
3. The YaTP is a box with a step-down transformer that reduces the 220V voltage to a safe 12V. They come with transformers of different powers; in addition, in the box there is a 12V socket and 2-3 circuit breakers to protect the supply network and the power line to the load.
4. The cross-section of the wires and the number of cores are shown in the diagram; if you have one, use a three-core cable, i.e. for sockets, for example, use VVGng-LS 3x2.5.
5. The electrical panel must contain circuit breakers (for each group of wires) and an RCD.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to draw a garage wiring diagram with your own hands. We hope that the information was useful and interesting for you!

Without making detailed references to garage electrical standards SNIP And PUE(rules for electrical installations), and other rules, which would make the article cumbersome and difficult to read, it is still necessary to write out the essence.

If it is owned cooperatively, you will need to obtain permission for it. electrification. You can find out more details from the cooperative administration.

To connect to three-phase network 0.4 kV (380 V) please contact your local power supply company. If everything is done according to the rules, then they will draw up a project according to the customer’s requirements. (In fact, such a project arises as a coordination of the customer’s wishes with the possibilities and limitations of the rules.)

You can do the installation yourself electrical wiring in the garage, as well as perform all installation work. But that's only when we're talking about about single-phase network 220 V. To connect a three-phase network you will need permission. And installation to a separate meter will be done by an authorized organization (local electricity supply).

In case of network 220 V take care of a meter designed for current in 50 Amps so that, if necessary, there is a reserve of load current. Of course, the cables from the input must provide this current. This work is also done by specialists under control energy supervision.

If your meter already provides such a current (visible on the meter itself), then you can make a connection to the garage, over the air, or underground.

How to do wiring in the garage with your own hands - photo:

How to spend electrical wiring in the garage? First, let's discuss what you can do on your own, on your own. From the house you can run electricity to the garage by air or under earth. Air line made with a cable and suspended on a steel support wire with a diameter of 3 mm.

The line is pulled underground in a corrugated plastic pipe, in a trench 80 cm deep, on a bed of sand, 10 cm thick. This line is connected to the home meter and is thus part of apartment wiring, as a separate line, also protected by a machine.

In the room itself, a self-made electrical panel for garage for further distribution of electricity (see electrical panel diagram for the garage below). And this one switch box for a garage it starts with the main machine, the same as in the apartment. We will talk about the choice of rated current for them below.

DIY electrical distribution panel diagram for a garage:

Schemes and location of consumers

How to spend wiring in the garage with your own hands? Before starting work you need to select wiring diagram in the garage with your own hands. Garage wiring diagrams vary depending on what information is needed by the person looking at them. In electrical engineering there are circuit diagrams And layout diagrams.

The first should describe in detail the entire electrical circuit, and the second - the location of consumers, indicating the distance or so that you can navigate by the scale of the drawing. Let's start with schematic diagram connecting the wiring to the garage, which is required in accordance with the latest version PUE.

Single phase circuit diagram The garage's electrical supply is shown in the figure below. For convenience, the wiring diagram in the garage uses the actual colors of the wires (as in regular cables).

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the garage - diagram, photo:

The phase conductor of the network is under dangerous voltage relative to neutral and ground, since neutral is usually grounded. However, for the operation of the residual current device (RCD), a protective earth (PE, protection earth) is required.

ATTENTION! Never connect protective earth to neutral! Use correctly arranged grounding.

Principle of operation RCD consists of using a differential transformer, which adds up the incoming (through the phase wire) and outgoing (through the neutral wire) currents. If the consumer's insulation is damaged and there is a short circuit to the housing, then the sum of the phase wire and neutral currents is not zero. And the difference is made precisely by the leakage current to the ground.

Perhaps this current flows through the human body! Lethal current approx. 100 mA. And the RCD shown in the diagram is configured for current 5 mA. Thus, the person will be protected, because the device will operate in milliseconds and open the circuit.

But this only works if the leakage current flows in addition to the differential transformer RCD, namely in a separate grounding line!

The main machine de-energizes our small network in the diagram in case of short circuits on a common line (magnetic protection) or in the event of a large total overload of all lines ( thermal protection). It is also used for repairs.

In order to ensure the independence of different consumers, it is used several lines feeding from one or more groups. Usually in a private garage, as in an apartment, one group is enough. And each group is powered by its own machine in the phase circuit. This is very convenient for repairs.

Automatic machines (circuit breakers) protect their circuits from overcurrent and short circuits. It should be remembered that RCD protects circuits only from leakage currents! It does not protect the circuit from overcurrent, the circuit breaker does that.

Tires, located in the shields, are made in the form of strips or bars made of copper or brass alloys and are equipped with holes for wires that are tightened with screws. It should be said that the modern range of electrical products is very convenient for installation work if used correctly.

Three-phase network diagram differs from single-phase only in two additional phases and the installation of three-phase (built-in) circuit breakers and RCDs. The individual phases of this network are routed as voltage lines 220 V together with neutral. Between any two phases the voltage is equal 380 V, and the phase angle in a uniformly loaded network is 120 degrees. In this case, the current in the neutral is zero.

Electricity in the garage with your own hands - the layout is shown in the following figure:

On such electrical diagrams in the garage, it is not necessary to fulfill the requirements for drawings according to accepted rules, since we make them for ourselves. The main thing is clarity all designations. Vertical sections of wiring are marked with pluses indicating the height. This will make it possible to easily calculate the length of the lines.

On the wiring diagram, electrical wiring in the garage is indicated by symbols sockets And lamps. Switches can be added. Everything is added by location. We'll work on this document a little more later when we select materials.

Selection of wires and cables according to load power

Here you can use the following table:

The table is compiled for voltage 230 V (new standard instead of 220). Now we can select the cable sizes for the garage in the previous picture. Let's assume that all the lamps under the ceiling are on 80 W, lamps on 36 V in the hole 100 W and we will need sockets for the pit for electrical equipment with a power of up to 5 kW.

A line of ceiling lights consumes a total of 240 W, and for pit lamps we cannot use the table, since the transformer voltage 36 V. In addition, the pit has an outlet for power tools. 36 V. Therefore, we proceed from the maximum power of the transformer, let it be equal to 500 W.

Let's calculate the current by power: I = P/U = 500/36 = 14 A (rounded up).

Wire from transformer it is better to conduct copper, closed-type wiring - part of it passes through pipes in concrete floor garage. Therefore, a cable with a conductor cross-section of 4.5 mm.kv, “four and a half squares” in the jargon of electricians, is suitable for us. For pit sockets, we will also take copper wire for closed wiring, this will require, according to the table, 5.5 mm.sq.

In fact, these meticulous calculations are not trivial at all, you will understand this as soon as you find yourself in a store and start looking at the price tags of copper cables.

So we will need 8 m cable 4.5 mm.sq. and 7 m cable 5.5 mm.sq. And 9 m aluminum cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm.kv for ceiling lamps, thinner than an electric cable is practically not available for sale. We select and buy the nearest sections, rounded up.

We choose aluminum because it inexpensive, and the ceiling line is practically unloaded. Cables should be selected with double insulation and with insulating conductors.

By current we select and machine guns. For a line of ceiling lights 2.5 A, for a line of sockets in a pit 15 A, and the transformer remains. Since the transformer transforms not only voltages, but also currents with the same ratio, we can easily calculate the current in the primary winding: 14 / (220 / 36) = 14 * 36 / 220 = 2.3 A. An automatic machine will do. 2.5 A. The total maximum current will be 20 Amps and the automatic machine should be the same. All that remains is to choose the appropriate RCD.

It must be designed for a passing current of at least 20 A and operating current 10-20 mA, not more! Devices with proper insulation have virtually zero leakage current.

Other materials and installation technology

Cables and busbars are placed in closed shields, boxes and cable ducts or trays. These materials were traditionally made from metal. Nowadays they use non-flammable plastic in the form of pipes, round or rectangular. Worst of all corrugated pipe– it can be very difficult to pull cables and wires into it.

The best option is cable trays with snap-on lids. Good fit metal-plastic pipe for plumbing or heating.

At bend points, if it is impossible to make this bend with a large radius from pipes, use boxes, which serve for the distribution of branches and the installation of switches.

Both boxes and pipes must be well fastened to load-bearing elements (walls, beams, ceilings), and the connection of pipes to boxes should be, if possible, airtight.

In practice, you will have to show patience and skill, even when using the most technologically advanced materials.

Pulling cables through pipes should begin with wire, which is inserted into the pipe using a special head that prevents jamming. The cable is then tied to a wire and pulled through the pipe. This is why trays with lockable lids are preferred. They are very easy to install and repair.

The trays require significantly fewer holes to attach and have a neat appearance. In the garage example, trays could be used in vertical sections of wiring, and ceiling lamps can be hung on a tensioned rope.

It is advisable to use a clamp connection in boxes screws, but you can solder copper strands, this is also a completely reliable method. To switch from aluminum to copper, in order to avoid corrosion, you must use either special terminals or washers made of zinc or galvanized steel. This will get in the way corrosion in a humid environment. “Bare” contact between copper and aluminum will inevitably lead to corrosion, deterioration of the contact and overheating.

Grounding

How to make it in the garage with your own hands? The role of grounding has already been discussed above and now how to organize it. To do this, drive a steel rod into the ground near the garage. galvanized pipe 2 meters long and weld round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm to it. It is advisable to choose a damp grounding location.

Steel circle (it needs to be painted waterproof paint), is brought into the garage and there it is led to the panel, where another terminal is made for a reliable connection with PE bus thick copper wire. Grounding the lower its resistance, the better, so the thickness of the grounding conductor must be sufficient.

Performance email postings in the garage on your own it is possible. Self-wiring wiring in the garage will require significantly lower costs than using employees. But if you want to spend on high level electrician in the garage with your own hands, you will have to learn a lot in this process and read articles like this one.

This article was mainly devoted to design garage wiring, which is not given too much attention. The topic is not small, and within one article it is impossible to cover all the practical subtleties associated with installation. But on the Internet there are many wiring diagrams for the garage and good videos concerning the practical part of the work and how to perform it.

Useful video

How to do wiring in a garage correctly? Watch the video below:

The presence of electrical wiring in the garage greatly simplifies the life of the car owner. In case of urgent need, you can quickly charge the battery or pump up a flat tire. And in case of serious damage, the presence of lighting will allow you to carefully inspect vehicle from the inspection hole. We have prepared for you instructions with diagrams that will allow you to do the installation yourself.

Creating a DIY garage wiring diagram

Single-phase wiring diagram for a garage

The garage belongs to the group of technical premises where wiring is more often used open type. This allows electrical work to be carried out in as soon as possible. In addition, such a system is easier to upgrade and maintain. For safety reasons, wiring can also be laid inside load-bearing walls, but if problems arise, the damaged area will have to be completely opened.

In garages used for parking and maintaining no more than two cars, a single-phase power supply of 220 V with a frequency of 50 Hz is installed. This voltage is sufficient to operate lighting, power socket group, power tools, charging and charging equipment.

Three-phase power supply with a voltage of 380 V is used only in garages used to contain a large number of cars and large equipment, when there is a need for permanent job electric boiler, power supply for machine tools and welding machines.

Before carrying out installation work, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the electrical network. To draw a diagram, it is better to use graph paper, which shows overall plan garage, walls, floor and ceiling. All sketches are depicted on a reduced scale, convenient for applying the appropriate designations.

An example of external electrical wiring in a garage

After this, the location of the following devices is indicated on the diagram:

• input distribution board;
• metering device, RCD, automation;
• socket group;
• switches and lighting fixtures;
• power cable and electrical wiring.

When drawing a diagram, it is advisable to think about the optimal location of the RCD, metering meter and calculate the route for laying the cable to the socket group and lighting. The total number of sockets and lighting fixtures is determined, especially if there is an inspection hole.

When designing electrical wiring, you should provide a method for supplying electricity to the distribution panel, taking into account the location of the garage. Basically, garages are built in garage cooperatives with their own substation or near residential buildings connected to the electrical grid. If you plan to build a garage on a separate plot, then calculate the method and route of laying the cable line from the nearest transmission line.

Scheme for a garage without an inspection hole

Single-phase garage wiring diagram for 220 V

Taking into account the described conditions, the photo above shows a diagram single-phase wiring with a rated operating voltage of 220 V. This approximate diagram, compiled for informational purposes. In practice, especially in the presence of powerful equipment, the wiring diagram may have a slightly different appearance.

The diagram for a garage without an inspection hole shows:

• 1 - input two-pole circuit breaker, designed for 220 V;
• 2 - electric meter;
• 3 - RCD for socket group and lighting;
• 4 - single-pole circuit breakers for each socket group;
• 5 and 6 - paired rosette groups;
• 7 - machine for the general lighting network;
• 8 - automatic local lighting network for spotlights;
• 9 and 10 - switches for general and local lighting;
• 11 and 12 - lighting fixtures.

According to this diagram, a three-wire wire is used for wiring: phase (L), neutral (N) and ground. The grounding wire is intended to protect a person from the effects of electric current and maintain the functionality of electrical appliances. To simplify the diagram, the ground wire (PE) wiring is not shown.

Wiring diagram for a room with an inspection hole

Single-phase wiring diagram for a garage with an inspection hole

Conventionally, the inspection hole can be classified as basements located below floor level. According to the rules for the construction of electrical installations (PUE), an ultra-low voltage current of 42 volts or less must be used to supply power to the inspection pit.

To do this, a special transformer is installed that reduces the voltage and is designed for a total current power of up to 2–3 kW. At the same time, equipment, power tools and lighting fixtures that are planned to be used when working in the inspection pit must be designed for this voltage.

Above is a wiring diagram for a garage with an inspection pit. The diagram shows:

• 1 - introductory electrical panel;
• 2 - input two-pole circuit breaker for 220 V;
• 3 - electric meter;
• 4 - step-down transformer up to 36–42 volts;
• 5 - lighting fixtures of the inspection pit;
• 6 - RCD;
• 7 and 8 - machines of socket group No. 1 and 2:
• 9 and 10 - socket groups No. 1 and 2;
• 11 and 12 - automatic lighting of groups No. 1 and 2;
• 13 and 14 - lighting group No. 1 and 2;
• 15 - switch or several switches for lighting groups.

As in the previous case, a cable with a grounding conductor is used to lay the electrical network. For lighting, the cable used is VVG 3*1.5, and for socket groups - VVG 3*6. For sockets, the cable cross-section is increased due to the possibility of connecting powerful equipment: compressor, welding machine, starting charging device.

Necessary materials

A correctly drawn up electrical wiring diagram will help you quickly calculate the number of cables, automation, sockets, etc. First of all, the cross-section and length of the input cable are calculated. To do this, you can use the special table below.

Table calculating cable cross-section depending on network power

For example, let’s calculate the parameters of the cable and other components for circuit No. 1, which was indicated in the last section:

The cable length is determined based on the optimal route. The cable is purchased with a 10% reserve. It is highly not recommended to buy very cheap products. It is optimal if it is wiring with double insulation and insulating conductors.

Required tools for installation

Step-down transformer for the electrical network from 220 to 36 volts

To install electrical wiring you will need the following tools:

• pliers and side cutters;
• Phillips and slotted screwdriver;
• hammer and chisel;
• electric drill and hammer drill;
• grinder with disc for concrete;
• electrical tape and an indicator screwdriver.

It is advisable that the handles hand tools were made of rubberized materials. If the handle is made of plastic, then before performing work it must be wrapped in several layers of electrical tape.

Do-it-yourself wiring in the garage - step-by-step instructions

Work on installing wiring and lighting in the garage consists of several stages: preparing the walls, pulling the input cable, installation internal wiring, connecting lighting and sockets.

Indicator screwdriver for checking power supply to contacts

When working with electricity, safety rules must be followed:

1. Connection, pulling, installation and other work are performed with the electricity turned off. It is better to verify this yourself - carefully check each contact using an indicator screwdriver. To do this, the tip of the screwdriver is applied to the contacts and other surfaces, while the index finger is always in contact with the end of the handle.
2. When there is no power switchboard An instruction sign is hung on it: “Do not turn on! Work is underway." If it is not possible to completely de-energize the shield, then connection work should only be carried out wearing rubber gloves, standing on a rubber mat.
3. It is prohibited to touch two contacts at the same time. When working with three-phase wiring, you should be extremely careful. The voltage between conductors in a 380 V network is noticeably higher than in a standard 220 V. It is also important to remember that exposure to interphase voltage, especially when current passes through the heart, can be fatal.

If, before carrying out the work, you are unsure that you can complete the job with due care and concentration, then do not proceed with the installation of wiring. It is better to call a professional who will do the job better and with minimal risk to health.

Preparatory work

Pulling a power cable “over the air”

Before installing electrical wiring, you should prepare the cable and walls for laying communications. The cable is cut taking into account a margin of 10 cm for each connection. Before cutting, the wall surface is carefully measured according to the route drawn on the diagram.

• The cable route must go strictly horizontally or vertically. The route turns only at an angle of 90 o;
• the wiring should be laid at a distance of 10–15 cm from the junction of the walls with the ceiling or floor;
• switches are mounted at a height of at least 1.5 m. Distance from doorway at least 10–15 cm;
• sockets cut into the wall at a height of at least 60 cm from the floor surface. The distance between adjacent sockets is at least 4 m;
• each group of sockets and lighting fixtures has a separate circuit breaker;
• A step-down transformer and lighting fixtures of appropriate power are required for the inspection pit.

After this, markings are applied to the wall surface using a marking cord, marker or construction pencil. When using a pencil, the markings are checked by level. For this, a laser or bubble level is used.

If there are foreign large objects and containers with flammable mixtures in the garage, then before laying the wiring they must be taken outside.

External wiring

Pulling power cable underground

The complexity and scope of work on connecting the power cable to the garage will depend on the territory on which the building is located. If the garage is located on local area, then it is enough to dig a pit of the required length and lay an armored cable.

For a structure erected on the territory of a garage cooperative or which is a separate building, you will need to submit an application to the organization that services the power line.

Next, the organization will review the application, ownership documents and the drawn up power supply diagram. After which a decision will be made and requirements that the owner must comply with before connecting the electrical network will be assigned.

According to SNiP, the power cable can be installed in two ways:

1. Underground - hidden way connecting a building using an armored cable. To lay it, a trench is dug at least 30 cm deep, below the freezing point of the soil. A sand cushion 15 cm thick is poured into the bottom of the trench and compacted. A corrugated pipe is laid on the cushion and a cable is pulled. After this, the pipe is covered with a 15 cm layer of sand and finally walled up in the ground.
2. Over the air - an open method of connecting a building to the electrical network. For this purpose, a cable with a supporting rope is used, which is stretched between support pillar and a garage. If the distance between the garage and the pole exceeds 20 m, then an intermediate support is installed between them. The height of the cable tension above the roadway should not be less than 6 m above ground level.

Work on connecting the power cable must only be carried out by a specialist management company. During the work process, you have the right to control the progress and quality of their implementation. This is especially true for the depth of the cable - no less than 70 cm and the tension height when entering the room - no more than 2.75 m.

Internal wiring in the garage

Grilling walls for laying electrical wiring

To enter the power cable into the garage, you will need to make a hole in the wall using a hammer drill. Hole diameter - 20–30 mm. The cable is pulled through a corrugated PVC pipe with a cross-section of 20–25 m and brought to the location of the electrical panel.

Further installation of electrical wiring inside the garage consists of the following:

1. According to the applied markings, cuts are made to a depth of 2.5–3 cm using a grinder with a concrete disc. After this, the concrete is carefully hollowed out using a chisel and hammer until the cable channel of the desired shape is formed.

   

   PVC corrugation for cable protection when laying communications

2. In a pre-marked place, the electrical panel is installed on required amount modules. For a single-phase network, as a rule, a panel with 9 modules is sufficient, and for a three-phase network - 12 modules or more.
3. When installing the shield, you will need to carefully remove the packaging and factory seal. protective film. To mount it on a wall, you need to unscrew the top part of the housing and the door. Under them there will be a DIN rail for modules and terminals. All elements must be temporarily removed.
4. To mount the shield in the wall, you will need to drill four holes and hammer in plastic plugs. Afterwards, the back of the case is mounted on the wall using self-tapping screws that are screwed into the mounting holes.

   

   electrical panel for garage with automatic device, RCD and meter

5. Before installing modules in the panel, it is better to mark them. To do this, you can use plain paper and transparent tape. The name of the module is written on a piece of paper 1×0.5 cm and glued to the product. For example, if several RCDs are installed, then the following is glued to the first device: “RCD of socket group No. 1.”
6. After marking, the modules are mounted on a DIN rail in any convenient order, but it is better to start with an RCD and a meter, and then place single-pole circuit breakers. Next, the modules are connected using jumpers made of cables with a diameter of 2.5 mm. To do this, the wire is cut into pieces of the required length. The end of the jumpers for connecting to the machine is stripped by 1 cm, and for connecting to the meter by 2 cm.
7. When connecting modules in a single-phase network, white and of blue color. The white wire is phase, and the blue wire is zero. The upper contacts are intended for connecting phase wires from the electric meter, and the lower ones are for outgoing wires to sockets and lighting.

   

   Wire brackets for connecting machine and RCD

8. After connecting the “phase” and “zero”, it is necessary to connect the “zero” wire coming from the meter, the RCD and the machines. To do this, the jumper is connected to the contact terminals of the “zero” bus. Finally, the clamping screws must be carefully checked.
9. To connect the power cable, you will need to insert a protective corrugation with a conductor into the shield through a puncture in the product. The cable is connected to the input machine at the top of the device.
10. A braided wire is pulled from the circuit breakers through cable ducts or PVC pipes, mounted on the wall. When connecting the line to the location of the sockets, install junction box. Installation is carried out in an open or hidden way.

    

    Installation of a distribution board on the wall and a box under the ceiling

11. At open method the box is mounted on the ceiling or wall using self-tapping screws. With the closed method, a recess is drilled in the wall for the box using an electric drill with a core attachment. Next, to connect the wires, use the color-coded diagram that comes with the kit. A line is stretched from the box to the socket group and its connection is made.
12. A similar method is used to draw lines for lighting and switches. The cable is pulled to the location of the switch, where it is unsoldered and goes to the lighting fixtures.

After pulling and installing all electrical wiring components, the quality of connecting devices, insulation and lighting connections is checked. If all work is carried out taking into account SNiP, then you can check it by turning on the power.

Video: how to connect an RCD

Lighting of the inspection pit

Lighting the inspection pit in the garage with 36 volt lamps

Lighting and arrangement of sockets for the inspection pit, as a rule, is carried out only in garages where it is planned to install three-phase wiring with a voltage of 380 V. For this, all the work described above is performed. In addition to this, a step-down transformer is mounted and connected near the distribution board.

A line is drawn from the transformer in a closed way - a hole is knocked out in the wall and floor, where a cable protected by PVC corrugation is laid. After this, the cable is fed directly to the inspection hole, where it diverges into the lighting group.

Low-voltage lamps 12–36 V based on LEDs are used as lighting devices. It is advisable that lighting fixture was completely made of plastic. If there is a metal outline or cover, then it is additionally grounded.

Sockets and switches for lighting in the inspection pit must be located outside it. It is optimal if they are located in close proximity to the switchboard.

Video: do-it-yourself wiring in the garage

Garage lighting using LED strip

LED strip SMD 5630 and plastic corner

LED strips are a modern and energy-efficient way to illuminate rooms up to 30 m2. Especially in garages where no arrangement is required general lighting, but all you need is illumination of work areas.

For contour lighting of the garage, tapes of the SMD 3528 type with a luminous flux of 5 lumens/diode are most often used. SMD 5630 type tapes with a luminous flux of 40 lumens/diode are used as central lighting.

Installation and connection technology LED strip will consist of the following stages:

The connection diagram of the tapes to the power supply is shown in the photo above. You cannot use daisy chain connection of tapes. If you plan to install RGB strips, you must use an RGB controller.5

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