Ventilation is a necessary measure that ensures living comfort and compliance with sanitary standards in the room. Forced ventilation is especially necessary inside wet rooms, as well as in houses with synthetic insulation. What types of ventilation are used in private construction, and what diagrams are needed when creating ventilation in a private house with your own hands?
Ventilation system
Why is a ventilation system necessary, and is it possible to do without its construction? Maybe it’s enough to just ventilate the rooms? Let's figure out why ventilation devices are installed in houses.
The ventilation system ensures air exchange between the street and the indoor living space. This is necessary for timely removal of moisture and supply of oxygen inside the rooms. Removal of moisture and air exchange ensure, firstly, a healthy microclimate, and, secondly, prevent dampness and wetting of the walls. On dry walls, fungus does not develop, which “eats” the wall and turns it into dust over decades. In addition, the presence of fungus is dangerous for pulmonary diseases. 90% of people who live in houses with fungus on the walls often catch colds, suffer from bronchitis, and have allergic reactions.
The construction of ventilation is not always necessary and not everywhere. Sometimes it is enough to periodically ventilate the room or keep it in the “ventilation” mode (when the crack is almost invisible, but air exchange occurs through it). Such measures of natural ventilation are sufficient for living rooms in which food is not prepared, washed, or water is not used.
For household rooms, the construction of an exhaust system is necessary in any case. They cook food, heat water, and wash, which produces steam that must be removed in a timely manner (outside). In the absence of ventilation, steam settles on the walls, condenses into droplets and is absorbed into the wall surface.
Types of ventilation
The main distinguishing feature of ventilation systems is the method of air circulation. Either it moves by gravity, or it is forced to move (for example, by a fan). On this basis, a distinction is made between natural and forced ventilation organization schemes.
In addition, the schemes differ in the following factor - in which part of the system the air movement is organized. Or ventilation works by drawing in (fresh air dilutes the stale air inside the room). Or the system works as an extractor (targetedly removes moisture and odors). According to this principle, ventilation systems are divided into:
- inlet;
- exhaust;
- supply and exhaust.
Now let’s characterize each possible ventilation scheme for your room.
Do-it-yourself natural ventilation in a private house
The most inexpensive system to operate. It costs some money during construction, and does not require any costs during operation. Air movement is ensured by natural factors: the difference in pressure and temperature (between indoors and outdoors).
How to make natural ventilation? To do this, during the construction of a house, an exhaust shaft is constructed, and exhaust pipes (for example, made of asbestos cement) are laid in the walls. Ventilation holes are made in the walls of each room, which are connected to laid pipes and a common exhaust hood.
The shaft rises above the roof of the building. The greater the height of the pipe, the greater the pressure and temperature difference, the better the natural draft.
Please note this: if the ventilation openings of the rooms are connected to each other by internal pipes, then odors may penetrate from one room to another.
Disadvantages of natural circulation:
- difficult to adjust, the suction force cannot be varied;
- almost does not work in summer;
- When there is a strong wind, odors flow back into the house.
Forced ventilation
Forced air exhaust does not have the disadvantages of natural ventilation listed above. It is adjustable (if necessary, the pulling force is increased or decreased) and works at any time of the year, in any weather.
For forced air movement, an electric motor and a fan are required. When its blades rotate, a thrust is created that captures the air flow. Thus, moisture and odors are removed from the room to the outside.
When installing such a ventilation system in a private house with your own hands, the costs are higher than for constructing a natural one. In addition to constructing channels in the walls or shaft, it is necessary to provide a pulling device (motor, fan). In addition, the operation of such a system requires electricity.
Forced ventilation
Supply ventilation is the supply of fresh air. It can be natural (gaps between the window frame and the glass unit or “ventilation” mode). It can also be forced (the air from outside is sucked inside by a fan, or a general system for the whole house is possible: the air is drawn into one of the pipes and then distributed between the rooms).
Supply ventilation is used to serve living rooms (living room, bedroom, children's room).
Exhaust ventilation: features of basement air exchange
Exhaust ventilation is important where large amounts of moisture and odors are generated. These are household premises (kitchen, bathroom, toilet), as well as the underground, cellar, basement. The important thing here is to draw out the moisture, and not to introduce a new portion of fresh air inside.
Exhaust ventilation can be natural or forced. The forced version works more efficiently than the natural one, which is why a forced exhaust system is often used for arranging cellars and basements.
It is important to know: for effective air exchange it is necessary to have both an exhaust pipe and a supply pipe. If only one pipe is built in a room or house (either supplying or removing air), then air exchange will remain at a low level even with a powerful fan.
What devices do you use for do-it-yourself ventilation of a private house?
What devices can be used to organize the ventilation of your room? Let's look at the most commonly used devices and describe their features:
- Fan with electric motor- it is installed in a forced air exchange system at the inlet (if it is supply ventilation) or at the outlet (if it is exhaust ventilation).
- Check valves- devices that support air movement in only one direction. They help limit the entry of odors through the common system into neighboring rooms. Valves are used in all types of ventilation schemes: supply, exhaust, natural and forced.
- Supply valves- devices that are built into the wall to connect the room with the street. They are a pipe with filters. The valve allows air to pass through, cleans it of dust and debris, and also keeps out cold (heat) and noise.
- Air handling units with heater- they heat the air supplied from the street, thereby increasing electricity consumption.
- Supply/exhaust devices with recuperators - when air moves, they maintain the temperature inside the room (warm in winter, cool in summer).
- Air supply units with heat pumps- combines ventilation with heating of the room. These are various ventilators and breathers. They have two working parts: a pipe for embedding into the wall and an overhead part (located on the inside of the wall, has a built-in heating device).
Do-it-yourself ventilation in a private house: device diagrams
A diagram is a drawing or drawing that shows the main elements of the system (pipes, valves, shafts) and their location in the structure. The ventilation scheme is developed when designing a house. To carry it out, special channels or pipes are provided in the walls, as well as a shaft or a common pipe to which these channels fit. Constructing ventilation passages after the construction of the building will be very difficult, and often simply impossible. Therefore, it is necessary to think over a ventilation scheme during design and implement it during construction.
Let's give some variants of schemes (for example). The basis is the floor plan of the house. It indicates the location of exhaust and supply devices, as well as their connection (if planned) into a common input/output system.
Here on the diagrams the exhaust locations and the location of the exhaust pipes are indicated in red. The blue color is where air is taken from the street and moves through pipes to be supplied to living and domestic rooms. The dimensions of the exhaust and supply pipes, the dimensions of the grilles (on the inside of the valves or hoods), and the names of devices and installations are also indicated.
Let's sum it up
- Ventilation has many advantages. It not only protects the walls from getting wet and mildew, and not only provides the owners of the house with clean air. The hood removes 80% of dust, reduces the amount of cleaning, improves the microclimate, and reduces the frequency of colds and allergies.
- For high-quality ventilation of rooms, forced ventilation is necessary. It is important that the system has both supply and exhaust passages and pipes.
- To organize ventilation, modern devices are used that purify the air as it is supplied, and can also warm it up or prevent it from losing heat (coolness, depending on the time of year).
When arranging basement ventilation in a private house, it is more effective to choose an exhaust system.
You can see the process of installing ventilation in the video.
Features of ventilation of a country house and cottage
Ventilation in a country house and cottage is as necessary as sewerage or heating, because without proper air exchange, even the most reliable room will quickly become unusable. If the exhaust air is not removed and is not replaced by an influx of fresh air, then mold, mildew, dampness, and an unpleasant odor will appear in the country house or cottage. All this will negatively affect the condition of the residents and the house itself.
Therefore, even at the design stage, you need to carefully consider the main nuances of ventilation in the house: how fresh air will enter the room, in which rooms it is better to install ventilation grilles to remove exhaust air, whether a supply and exhaust system will be needed or can be done in simpler ways, and many other questions .
Standards and requirements for ventilation in a cottage and country house
Ventilation standards in a country house according to SP 55.13330.2011 “Single-apartment residential houses” are as follows:
- At least 60 cubic meters should be removed from the kitchen per hour. m air;
- from the toilet and bathroom - 25 cubic meters;
- in all other rooms - no less than 20% of the total volume of the room in 1 hour.
More information about air exchange rates in other rooms can be found in the table below.
L = n * V (m 3 / hour), Where
n- standardized air exchange rate;
V- volume of the room.
In the process of creating a ventilation project for a country house or cottage, you must adhere to the following rules:
- exhaust air must be exhausted above the roof, both during natural and forced ventilation;
- intake grilles through which fresh air masses enter must be located no less than 2 m above the ground;
- the air in the room should move in the direction of the rooms where the largest amount of harmful substances is (kitchen, bathroom).
When installing ventilation in a country house, the following requirements are put forward for individual rooms:
- In the bathroom and toilet you need a powerful fan that is not afraid of high humidity.
- The boiler room will need a natural exhaust and a chimney. In order for air to flow into the boiler room naturally, you need to install a special valve. This type of ventilation will be optimal for the basement.
- The fireplace room needs a large influx of clean air masses, otherwise the draft in the fireplace will deteriorate and it will smoke. If funds allow, you can install a separate fan for the fireplace.
- The kitchen uses a special hood. If it cannot cope, you need to consider another air exhaust channel, for example, an additional ventilation duct with a fan.
- In conclusion, it is worth noting that the correct choice of equipment and a well-designed and installed ventilation system will ensure a comfortable microclimate in the room.
Types of ventilation for cottages and country houses
You need to think carefully about the ventilation system in a country house in advance, and you should pay attention to the following factors:
- features of the premises (area, number of floors, materials from which the house is built);
- financial opportunities.
For a private home, the following types of ventilation are used as an air renewal system:
- natural;
- supply and exhaust;
- mixed type.
The main nuances of natural ventilation of a cottage or private house
If the house is located in the suburbs, where there are no enterprises, then you can make natural ventilation in the cottage, since there is no need to filter the already clean and fragrant air. This ventilation is also suitable if the house is built of wood, adobe, brick, gas blocks, foam blocks, expanded clay or ceramic blocks. Clean air will enter through natural openings (cracks in windows, doors), passing through the entire room and carrying exhaust air to the ventilation grilles.
The process of natural ventilation is carried out as follows: in the house, through a ventilation duct coming from the lowest floor with branches on each of the following floors (about the same as in ordinary apartment buildings), warm air rises to the roof due to temperature and pressure differences. The higher the shaft, the stronger the thrust due to the difference in pressure along the height. Simply put, warm “exhaust” air rises up the ventilation duct and goes outside. Warm air is removed from the premises naturally, and fresh air enters through open windows, doors, cracks, etc.
The image shows how it is done 
.
Natural ventilation does not require large investments and time, and these are perhaps its only advantages.
Disadvantages of ventilation in a natural country house:
- inability to control and regulate the amount of clean and polluted air flows;
- practically does not function in the summer;
- at very low temperatures the outlet may freeze;
- in a strong wind, the smell can again “return” to the room.
Conclusion: Natural ventilation in a country house is a weak and unstable method of ventilation.
Possible addition to natural ventilation:
If the doors and windows are completely sealed, then you can install supply valves in the windows and grilles in the doors (this will not affect the soundproofing characteristics in any way). The window valve can be adjusted (open/close). More modern window valve models may have built-in temperature and humidity sensors. Most valves are designed to dispense 30 to 100 cubic meters per hour. m. air. Thus, it is possible to organize a more or less functioning ventilation system, taking into account natural inflow and exhaust.
The photo below shows the supply channels in the window and on the wall.
Forced ventilation: main characteristics
Forced ventilation is based on the use of special ventilation equipment, namely a supply and exhaust unit, which additionally cleans and heats the air masses entering the house. This type of ventilation is suitable in cases where natural ventilation cannot cope with its functions, and this happens in most country houses and cottages.
The supply and exhaust system is the most complete and comfortable, but at the same time, naturally, the most expensive. In this case, there is a full, uniform air exchange with the preparation of fresh air (cleaning, heating, ionization). Such a system is calculated and specially designed for each object individually. There is nothing complicated about this, but, nevertheless, the systems differ from each other, as they depend on the area, technical features of various houses, the wishes of the owners, and the financial capabilities of the homeowner.
Supply and exhaust ventilation of the cottage implies the presence of ventilation equipment and network. The equipment consists of the following elements:
- air valve;
- heater;
- silencer;
- fan.
The network includes the air intake grille, air ducts and air distribution devices - diffusers, anemostats.
The image shows how supply and exhaust ventilation is carried out in a country house.
Ventilation is also a forced type. mixed type. Mixed type ventilation is equipped only if natural ventilation does not cope with its task. With mixed ventilation, the influx of fresh air is carried out through windows and doors, and the exhaust is forced using exhaust fans. They provide stronger pressure and, accordingly, draw out more air.
As a rule, exhaust fans are installed in the toilet, bathroom and kitchen, where it is necessary to get rid of odors and moisture. This version of the system is also extremely economical and functional in everyday life, but does not provide full, uniform air exchange in rooms with comfortable temperatures (for example, in winter there may be a cold draft from the window, and in summer hot air can flow in). In addition, a mixed type of ventilation is not suitable if the air needs purification.
The ventilation system in a townhouse is almost no different from cottages. The most optimal types of forced ventilation for such premises are:
- Using supply valves and exhaust fans
- With installation with recuperator
In both cases, supply and exhaust units are used, which provide an influx of fresh air and exhaust exhaust, but in the second case the unit has an additional function - heat recovery. It allows you to save up to 70% of electricity in winter, since the heat of exhaust air masses is used to heat clean cold air from the street.
The pros and cons of various ventilation systems for a country house are presented in the table.
| System type | |||
| Peculiarities | Natural | Mixed | Supply and exhaust |
| Efficiency | low | average | high |
| Comfort | low | low | high |
| Price | low | low | high |
| Space Occupied | pipe in the mine | pipe in the mine | equipment, air ducts through the rooms behind the ceiling |
| Filtration system | absent | absent | from dust, odors, etc. |
| Need for maintenance | absent | periodic cleaning of fans (once every 2-3 years) | filter cleaning and diagnostics at least once a year |
| Operating costs for electricity | absent | low (fan operation) | medium, high (air handling unit operation, air heating) |
| System flexibility | low | low | high |
| Operating modes (winter-summer) | depends on weather conditions | cold air comes in in winter, hot air in summer | Air at room temperature is supplied year-round |
| Noisy operation | low | low, medium | low, medium |
Our specialists have extensive experience in the design and installation of ventilation systems for private houses of any level of complexity. In our company you can get a completely free consultation and estimate the cost of the system most suitable for your tasks and conditions.
The microclimate of the house depends on the correct ventilation device, which has a direct impact on the well-being and comfort of all its residents. Properly constructed ventilation ducts in a private house will ensure stable air exchange. They will create conditions for regular supply of fresh portions and unhindered removal of polluted air.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the specifics of constructing duct ventilation in a low-rise country property. We describe in detail the technology of installing a ventilation system, placing equipment, laying and fastening ventilation ducts. Practice-tested improvement options are discussed.
The information presented for consideration is based on building regulations. Taking into account our recommendations, you can build effective ventilation yourself. For visual understanding, diagrams, photo guides and video instructions are attached to the text.
Ventilation of the room is necessary in order to create optimal conditions for people’s lives and the existence of furniture and equipment located in the house.
If in apartment buildings everything has already been done by the specialists who erected the building, then during the construction of private real estate this issue is often overlooked.
Sometimes the installation of ventilation ducts is considered a waste of time and money. However, they are an obligatory part of the project implementation, ensuring favorable living conditions and long service life of building structures
This is a fundamentally erroneous opinion. Musty air, sweaty windows, unpleasant odors from bathrooms and the aromas of fried food, along with fumes, will enter all rooms and even the bedroom. Without a properly designed and assembled ventilation system, the comfortable life of the inhabitants of the house will be at risk.
Ventilation in a private house can be:
- natural;
- mechanical;
- mixed.
The first type is based on the natural process of circulation of air masses. No mechanisms are used to pump air into the house. It comes from the street, penetrating through micro-ventilated windows or supply valves arranged in the most suitable places.
In rooms of the house that do not have valves installed, air circulates through doorways and through cracks between the door and the floor.
Rules for installing ventilation pipes
A properly equipped ventilation system will perform its functions efficiently and will not create problems for the homeowner. To do this, it is important to lay ventilation ducts in the house, taking into account the rules and recommendations.
Firstly, the size of the exhaust ventilation duct in the room must have a diameter of at least 10x10 cm or 15x15 cm. It is better to use ready-made pipes than to make ducts from plasterboard - this will save installation time, and air flows better through the pipe.
To install ventilation ducts, galvanized metal and plastic rigid or flexible pipes of various diameters are used.
Secondly, ventilation pipes must protrude above the roof to a certain height, depending on their location. Thus, the length of the vertical section of the ventilation duct should on average be from 1.5 to 3 meters. If pipes do not fit into the overall design of the house, then you can use ventilation outlets in the roof.
The height of the ventilation ducts above the roof level is assumed to be equal to the height of the chimneys. It depends on the location of the pipes relative to the ridge ridge. It is important to protect the outlet opening with a grate to prevent birds and insects from entering the shaft
Thirdly, according to the regulations, it is necessary to provide ventilation to the boiler room and the room located above the boiler room. Moreover, the purpose of this room does not matter. This could be an office, library, bedroom or living room.
Fourthly, it is important to distinguish between the concepts of chimney and ventilation. In the first case, combustion products enter the channel, and in the second, exhaust air from the room itself. Under no circumstances should these 2 channels be combined into one. This is a gross violation.
Ventilation outlets fit well into the overall idea of the roof design. You can choose the model that best suits the color
Fifthly, in the kitchen you need to provide 2 separate ventilation channels - and for supply air. The second option is to use a special grille where the air duct is connected and there is a separate hole for air to flow into the room. Or a window with micro-ventilation would be a good solution.
Thoughtful design solutions with a stepped ceiling can disguise any ventilation system
Sixth, if the house has rooms intended for household needs - a dressing room, laundry room, pantry, washing room and other purposes, then it is necessary to design a ventilation duct there. In such rooms there are no windows through which air could flow.
Seventhly, when a ventilation duct is laid in a wall, it is important that it is not load-bearing. It is not recommended to install them in external walls - due to temperature changes, condensation will always form there.
When installing a ventilation duct in the wall, rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, boiler room should be nearby
The eighth rule is that wooden ceiling and roof structures should not adjoin or touch a stone or brick ventilation duct. For a tree, such a neighborhood can be disastrous.
The ninth rule is that it is undesirable to use only a window as a supply valve. She's not the best option. A sore nasopharynx in the morning, if there is a sudden change in weather overnight, will be a problem for the owner of the house who slept with the window open. This is especially true in the autumn and spring.
Tenth rule - when it is not possible to make ventilation ducts in the room, you can install a supply valve by drilling a through hole in the wall. And at the top, right under the ceiling, drill a hole for installing an exhaust valve. This option for room ventilation can provide the room and its occupants with fresh air.
More articles on this topic:
How to make sure that the house is fresh, warm and dry, without drafts and dust?
In private homes, a natural ventilation system has become widespread, in which the movement of air is determined by the difference in air temperatures indoors and outdoors. The popularity of natural ventilation is explained by the simplicity of the system design and its low cost.
As a rule, simple and cheap are not the most effective and profitable. In countries where people are more concerned about their health and consider the cost of maintaining housing, Various forced ventilation systems have become widespread in private homes.
In private homes the following are used: forced ventilation systems:
- Forced exhaust ventilation, when air is removed from the premises of the house forcibly, and the flow of air from the street occurs naturally, through supply valves.
- Forced supply and exhaust ventilation, in which both the influx and removal of air into the premises of the house is forced.
Forced ventilation can be local (distributed) or centralized. IN local forced ventilation system Electric fans are installed in every room of the house where it is needed. IN centralized forced ventilation system the fans are located in one ventilation unit, which is connected by pipes to the premises of the house.
Natural ventilation system in a private house - features and disadvantages
The natural ventilation system in a private house consists of vertical channels that begin in the ventilated room and end above the roof ridge.
The upward movement of air through the channels occurs under the influence of forces (thrust) caused by the difference in air temperatures at the inlet and outlet of the channel. Warm indoor air is lighter than cold outdoor air.
The draft in the ventilation channel is also influenced by the wind, which can either increase or decrease the draft. The traction force also depends on other factors: the height and cross-section of the ventilation duct, the presence of turns and narrowings, thermal insulation of the duct, etc.
Scheme of ventilation of premises in a multi-storey private house
According to building regulations, the natural ventilation channel must provide standard air exchange at outside air temperature +5 o C , without taking into account the influence of wind.
In summer, when the outside air temperature is higher than specified, air exchange worsens. Air circulation through natural ventilation channels almost completely stops when the outside air temperature is above +15 o C.
In winter, the colder it is outside, the stronger the traction and higher. According to some estimates, heat loss in winter through the natural ventilation system can reach 40% of all heat loss at home.
In houses, natural ventilation ducts usually come from the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler room and dressing rooms. Additional channels are provided for ventilation of the basement or for the device.
On the upper floors of a private house it is also often necessary to install additional natural ventilation channels from living rooms in order to ensure the air exchange required by standards.
In the attic rooms natural ventilation, as a rule, cannot provide the required air exchange due to a lack of draft in low-height ventilation ducts.
Natural ventilation standards
Russian building rules SP 55.13330.2011 “Single-apartment residential houses”, clause 8.4. require:
Minimum performance of the home ventilation system in maintenance mode should be determined based on at least one exchange of air volume per hour in rooms with constant presence of people.
In service mode, at least 60 m3 of air per hour must be removed from the kitchen, and 25 m3 of air per hour from the bathtub and restroom.
The air exchange rate in other rooms, as well as in all ventilated rooms in non-working mode, must be at least 0.2 room volume per hour.
A room with permanent occupancy is a room in which people are expected to stay for at least 2 hours continuously or 6 hours in total during the day.
For comparison, here are the requirements for ventilation performance in an apartment building, at a minimum:
The amount of air exchange specified in the standards must be ensured for the design conditions: outside air temperature +5 o C, and indoor air temperature during the cold season (for residential premises +22 o C) .
The supply of outside air to the premises should be provided through special air supply devices in external walls or windows.
For apartments and premises in which the outside temperature is +5 °C removal of the normalized air flow is not ensured; mechanical exhaust ventilation should be provided.
Mechanical ventilation with partial use of natural ventilation systems for air supply or removal (mixed ventilation) should also be provided during periods of the year when microclimate parameters and air quality cannot be ensured by natural ventilation.
For example, when the outside temperature is above +5 o C, the performance of natural ventilation channels is reduced. In this case, it is allowed to increase air exchange in rooms with windows by opening windows, vents and transoms. In rooms without windows, mechanical forced exhaust ventilation should be provided.
The natural ventilation system in a private house works as follows
In old houses and apartments, fresh air from the street penetrates into the living rooms through leaks in wooden windows, then through the overflow holes in the doors(usually the gap between the edge of the door and the floor) reaches the kitchen and bathrooms and exits into the natural ventilation channel.
The main purpose of such ventilation is to remove combustion products, gas, moisture and odors from the kitchen and bathrooms. Living rooms in such a system are not sufficiently ventilated. In rooms, you have to open the windows for ventilation.
If modern sealed window designs are used in the house, for the flow of fresh air it is necessary to install special supply valves in the outer walls of the rooms or in the windows.
Often, supply valves are not installed even in new houses. For air flow you have to keep the window sashes ajar at all times, at best, by installing “micro-ventilation” fittings on the windows. (First we choose and pay money for airtight windows with several levels of seals to protect against cold, noise and dust, and then we keep them constantly ajar!? :-?)
You can also often see how airtight doors are installed in rooms of the house, without a gap at the floor or other opening for air passage. Installing airtight doors cuts off the natural circulation of air between rooms of the house.
Many are not even aware of the need ensure a constant flow of fresh air into the rooms and air circulation between rooms. Having installed plastic windows and sealed doors, they still live in stuffiness, with condensation and mold. And in the indoor air there is an increased concentration of deadly gases - and insidious gases.
Disadvantages of natural ventilation
All these open vents, slightly open sashes, cracks in windows, valve openings in external walls and windows cause drafts, serve as a source of street dust, allergenic pollen, insects and street noise.
The main disadvantage of natural ventilation in our homes is the lack of control and regulation of the amount of air supplied and removed from the premises.
As a result, often the house is stuffy, high humidity, condensation on the windows and in other places, fungus and mold appear. Usually, this indicates that the ventilation is not doing its job - removing pollution and excess moisture released into the room air. The amount of air escaping through the ventilation is clearly not enough.
In other houses in winter it’s often the other way around, the air is very dry with relative humidity less than 30% (comfortable humidity 40-60%). This indicates that too much air is being lost through the ventilation. The frosty, dry air entering the house does not have time to become saturated with moisture and immediately goes into the ventilation duct. And heat goes away with the air. We get discomfort of the indoor microclimate and heat loss.
In summer, the draft in the natural ventilation channel decreases, until the air movement in the channel completely stops. In this case, the rooms are ventilated by opening the windows. Other rooms without windows, for example, a bathroom, toilet, dressing room, cannot be ventilated in this way. Such In rooms that remain without ventilation in the summer, moist air easily and quickly accumulates, and then the smell, fungus and mold appears.
How to improve natural ventilation
The operation of natural ventilation can be made more economical if you install an automatic valve at the entrance to the ventilation duct, controlled by a humidity sensor. The degree to which the valve opens will depend on the air humidity in the room - the higher the humidity, the more the valve is open.
They install in the rooms supply valves controlled by an outside air temperature sensor. As the temperature decreases, the air density increases and the valve must be closed to prevent excess cold air from entering the room.
Automation of valve operation will reduce heat loss with air escaping through ventilation by 20-30%, and the overall heat loss of the house by 7-10%.
It should be understood that such local automation of the operation of each individual valve will not be able to fully eliminate the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system in the house. Installing automatic valves will only slightly improve the performance of ventilation, especially in winter.
At a minimum, you can install adjustable grilles and valves on the supply and exhaust ducts, and adjust them manually, at least twice a year. During the winter period, they are covered, and with the onset of warmth, the exhaust grilles and supply valves are opened completely.
Building regulations allow the rate of air exchange in non-operating modes of premises to be reduced to 0.2 room volume per hour, i.e. five times. There will always be rarely used rooms in the house. Especially on the upper floors of the house. In winter, be sure to close ventilation valves in rarely used rooms.
A ventilator in the outer wall provides a forced flow of air into the room. Fan power only 3 -7 W.
Compared to a supply valve, the ventilator has the following advantages:
- The volume of air coming from the street is limited only by the power of the fan.
- They create excess pressure in the room, due to which air exchange increases in houses and apartments with poorly functioning exhaust ventilation ducts, and also prevents the suction of polluted air from neighboring rooms and the basement.
- Reduce the dependence of natural ventilation on climatic factors.
- Deep air purification from dust, allergens and odors is achievable through the use of more efficient filters with high aerodynamic resistance.
- Provide the best.
Ventilators equipped with an electronic climate control system, air heating, and special filters are often called breathers.
Inexpensive electronic devices for home use are available that measure air humidity. Hang such a device on the wall and adjust the throughput of the ventilation channels, focusing on the readings of the device. Maintain optimal air humidity in residential areas of 40-60%.
Check the presence and size of ventilation openings to move air between rooms in the house. The area of the overflow hole for the exit of air from the living room must be at least 200 cm 2. Usually they leave a gap between the edge of the door and the floor in the room 2-3 cm.
Overflow hole for air entry into the kitchen, bathroom or to another room equipped with a ventilation exhaust duct, must have an area of at least 800 cm 2. Here it is better to install a ventilation grille at the bottom of the door or interior wall of the room.
When moving from a room to a room with a ventilation duct, air should pass through no more than two flow openings (two doors).
Ventilation ducts that pass through an unheated room (attic) must be insulated. Rapid cooling of the air in the channel reduces draft and leads to condensation from the removed air. The route of the natural ventilation channel should not have horizontal sections, which also reduce draft.
Fan in the natural ventilation duct
To improve the operation of natural ventilation, kitchen hoods are installed, as well as electric fans at the entrance of ventilation ducts. Such fans are suitable only for short-term and intensive ventilation of rooms during periods of significant moisture and pollution. The fans are very noisy, their performance, and therefore power consumption, exceeds the values necessary for constant ventilation.
It should be noted that installing a fan in an existing natural ventilation duct reduces the lumen of the duct. Autorotation of the blades (rotation of the blades of an idle fan under the pressure of incoming air) further increases the aerodynamic resistance of the channel. As a result, installation fan significantly reduces the force of natural draft in the duct.
A similar situation occurs when a kitchen hood above the stove is connected to the only natural ventilation channel in the kitchen.
Filters, valves and a fan in the kitchen hood practically block the natural draft in the ventilation duct. A kitchen with the hood turned off remains without ventilation, which impairs air exchange throughout the house.
To correct the situation, into the air duct between the natural ventilation duct and the kitchen hood It is recommended to place a tee with a check valve on the side outlet. When the hood is not working, the check valve opens, ensuring free passage of air from the kitchen into the ventilation duct.
When you turn on the kitchen hood A large amount of warm air is released into the street for the sole purpose of removing odors and other contaminants that form above the stove.
To prevent heat loss, it is recommended to install an umbrella over the kitchen stove, equipped with a fan, filters and odor absorbers for deep air purification. After filtration, the air, purified from odors and contaminants, is sent back into the room. This type of hood is often called a filter hood with recirculation. It should be borne in mind that the savings from lower heating costs are somewhat offset due to the need to periodically replace filters in the hood.
Available for sale fans controlled by a humidity sensor. The fan turns on when a certain threshold of humidity in the room is reached and turns off when it decreases. All of the above features of the operation of fans in a natural ventilation system are preserved when working with a humidity sensor.
In any case, fan operation only leads to an increase in draft in the ventilation duct and a decrease in humidity in the room. But it is not able to limit natural draft, preventing excessive dry air and heat loss in winter.
In addition, in the natural ventilation system, several elements located in different parts of the house work in concert - supply valves, exhaust ducts, flow grilles between rooms.
Turning on a fan in one of the channels often leads to disruption of the operation of other elements of the system. For example, the supply valves in the house often cannot pass the sharply increased amount of air required for the fan to operate. As a result, when you turn on the hood in the kitchen, the draft in the exhaust duct in the bathroom overturns - air from the street begins to enter the house through the exhaust duct in the bathroom.
Natural ventilation in a private house is a system:
- simple and cheap to install;
- does not have any mechanisms requiring electric drive;
- reliable, does not break;
- very cheap to operate - costs are associated only with the need to perform periodic inspections and cleaning of ventilation ducts;
- does not make noise;
- the efficiency of its operation strongly depends on atmospheric conditions - most of the time the ventilation does not operate in optimal mode;
- has a limited ability to adjust its performance, only in the direction of reducing air exchange;
- in winter, the operation of the natural ventilation system leads to significant heat loss;
- in summer the ventilation system does not work, ventilation of the premises is possible only through open windows and vents;
- there is no possibility of preparing the air supplied to the room - filtration, heating or cooling, changing humidity;
- does not provide the necessary comfort (air exchange) - which causes stuffiness, dampness (fungi, mold) and drafts, and also serves as a source of street dust (pollen) and insects, and reduces the sound insulation of rooms.
Ventilation of the upper floors of a multi-storey private house
In a multi-storey building, as in a large ventilation duct, there is a natural draft, under the influence of which air from the first floor rushes up the stairs to the upper floors.
If we do not take any measures, then on the upper floors of the house we will always have stuffiness and high humidity, and in the house there will be a temperature difference between floors.
There are two options for installing natural ventilation in the upper floors of the house.
Read: Ventilation in a wooden house
It’s interesting that traditional for Russia houses with walls made of logs or timber do not have special devices for ventilation. Ventilation of rooms in such houses occurs due to walls (“breathing walls”), ceilings and windows, as well as as a result of air movement through the chimney when the stove is fired.
In the construction of a modern wooden house, various methods of sealing are increasingly being used - machine profiling of the mating surfaces of logs and beams, sealants for inter-crown seams, vapor-tight and windproof films in ceilings, sealed windows. The walls of the house are sheathed and insulated, and treated with various toxic compounds.
As a rule, there are no stoves in the rooms of the house.
A ventilation system in such modern wooden houses is simply necessary.
Ventilation of dressing rooms and storage rooms
Ventilation must be provided in the dressing room or storage room. Without ventilation, rooms will smell, humidity will increase, and condensation, mildew and mold may even appear on the walls.
The natural ventilation scheme for these rooms should exclude the flow of air from the dressing room or storage room into the living rooms.
If the doors of these rooms open onto the corridor, hall or kitchen, then the rooms are ventilated in the same way as the living rooms in the house are ventilated. To bring in fresh air from the street, a supply valve is placed in the window (if there is one) or in the wall. In the doors of the dressing room, pantries, a gap is left at the bottom, between the door and the floor, or another hole is made for air passage, for example, a ventilation grill is inserted into the lower part of the door.
Fresh air enters the dressing room or pantry through the supply valve, then leaves through the hole in the door into the corridor, and then goes to the kitchen, into the exhaust duct of the natural ventilation of the house.
There should be more than two doors between the dressing room or storage room and the room where there is a natural ventilation channel.
If the doors of the dressing room open into the living room, then the movement of air for ventilation of the dressing room should be organized in the opposite direction - from the living room, through the hole in the door, into the ventilation duct of the dressing room. In this version The dressing room is equipped with a natural ventilation channel.
Ventilation in your city
Ventilation
Ventilation of a private house. Air flows in the house - video:
The purpose of ventilation is to improve the air quality in the home. There is a conflict between the need to improve air quality and minimize the cost of modern ventilation and reduce its energy consumption.
Meanwhile, ventilation is not the only way to improve indoor air quality. The most important thing is to control the sources of air pollution. We are talking about everyday habits, such as not smoking in the room, making sure that bacteria and fungi do not multiply in the apartment.
The quality of air in a home clearly depends on whether materials with low levels of harmful emissions are used for construction. Natural materials such as wood, stone or glass are considered primarily as such.
By judicious selection of materials during the construction phase, good home air quality can be maintained even if a less expensive and energy-intensive ventilation system is installed.
More articles on this topic:
Building your own home is always accompanied by numerous troubles and worries. After all, before you start the “construction of the century” you need to clearly understand what you want to get in the end, otherwise it may well turn out to be the hut of a frivolous pig. Therefore, the house design must be selected taking into account all the details and, most importantly, the comfort of the future home specifically for you. Speaking of comfort, have you already thought about the internal systems of your home? They must be included in the project before the start of construction work if you want everything to be done conscientiously. Rebuilding or making any changes to an already completed building will be much more expensive, and it is not a fact that everything will “fall” as it should. For example, the ventilation device in a private house should be thought out precisely at the preparation stage, and only in this case will you breathe truly clean air in your new home.
Ventilation in a private house - options
What is generally proposed as an air renewal system for our homes? There are only three options:
- natural ventilation
- forced (supply and exhaust) ventilation
- mixed type ventilation (most often natural with forced exhaust)
And each option has its own advantages. Think for yourself, if you have a private house located in an area with excellent clean air, then it would be simply criminal (and, by the way, extremely unprofitable) to install forced ventilation in it, the functions of which, among other things, include cleaning the incoming air mixture. Why filter clean, fragrant air and end up with a sterile, tasteless atmosphere? However, in cases where your home is surrounded by an environment contaminated with various harmful and unpleasant impurities, it is necessary to remove everything unnecessary from the air entering the house, because no one wants to breathe industrial waste or exhaust gases. But how can you determine when which ventilation is best?
Conditions for choosing a ventilation system for a private house
Each of us wants to invest less and receive the highest standard. Therefore, it is important to identify from the very beginning all the factors that hinder or help such a result. And to select the most optimal ventilation system, you need to take into account the following components (this is the minimum option):
- cleanliness of the surrounding atmosphere
- material from which the building will be constructed
Of course, another important factor is always the availability of the required amount. And yet, this consideration was not included in our small list for the simplest reason - price should not be a decisive factor in the choice of ventilation in a private house, since savings in this case can then greatly affect your convenience.
But let’s move on to a more detailed description of the various ventilation options depending on the factors already stated. And in order to imagine the ventilation systems in a private house in a little more detail, here is a photo selection.
Natural ventilation
Natural ventilation is most optimal if two prerequisites are present:
- truly clean outdoor air
- the following building materials for the home:
- wood (houses made of logs or timber)
- adobe (or light adobe)
- brick
- gas block
- foam block
- cinder block
- expanded clay block
- ceramic efficient block
- monolithic expanded clay concrete
Mixed ventilation
Exhaust ventilation in a private house (as an addition to natural ventilation) is installed only in cases of real need, when a conventional hood simply does not cope with its purpose, despite the presence of normal draft in the air ducts. And the installation of such mechanical applications is carried out only in places with the most polluted air: kitchen, sanitary and work (boiler room or generator) rooms, which affect the atmosphere of the entire house.
Forced ventilation
Forced supply and exhaust ventilation with additional filtration of incoming air should be installed in any of two cases:
- if the outside air needs additional purification to get rid of harmful impurities or simply unappetizing odors
- if your house is being built from:
- 3D panels
- expanded polystyrene concrete
- SIP panels
- sandwich panels
- vacuum panels
- MDM panels
- SOTA panels
- and also if it is a frame house using Canadian technology, isodome or thermohouse
Having decided on these parameters, you can make the ventilation in a private house most suitable.
Advantages of natural ventilation in a private home
Despite the fact that recently many people prefer various technical devices (for example, supply ventilation in a private house), natural ventilation has its advantages. And in cases where it is appropriate, it is better to use this method. So what exactly is the advantage of this type of ventilation? And there are quite a lot of them.
- the cost of installing ventilation in a private house is reduced by an order of magnitude
- with the correct ventilation scheme in a private house, you get the opportunity to regulate the heat exchange of the entire space and even heat rooms in which heating devices are not installed - corridors, landings and flights, etc.
- the cleanest air, filled with freshness and natural aromas, fills exactly those rooms where it is most needed - bedrooms, offices, living rooms, that is, living rooms
- Optimal humidity is maintained in all significant areas of the house
And although we can talk about the advantages of natural ventilation for quite a long time, we have listed the main, most important ones. However, people often want to know in more detail about the processes that cause such manifestations, and especially for you: natural ventilation in a private house - video tutorial.
Is it possible to do the ventilation of a private house with your own hands?
The issue of saving when building and furnishing your own home sometimes becomes quite acute, and then many owners begin to think about doing all or some part of the work with their own hands. And it’s no wonder, because many people believe, and actually do it correctly, that it’s clearly not the gods who burn the pots, but even ourselves. However, before you throw yourself at the embrasure, you should clearly decide whether you have enough knowledge and skills for quite complex matters.
Let's return to ventilation - doing it yourself is not a problem. Installing ventilation in a private house is not that difficult. And yet, those for whom such an installation will be the first experience of this kind should at least consult with specialists. Yes, you yourself understand perfectly well that even a brilliant master must first study any business, and only then take on it.
Therefore, let's start with the main thing - let's calculate the ventilation in a private house. The most important factors in such calculations should be the number of people constantly in the building and the volume of air in the premises. Moreover, it is worth at the same time taking into account all the achievements of civilization that take oxygen from the air and poison it with any secretions (as you already understand, we are talking about various technical devices designed to make life easier in our homes), as well as which rooms will require more frequent air exchange. By the way, do not forget to immediately plan heating (or cooling) of the incoming fresh air. Of course, after digging through a bunch of literature, you will be able to calculate everything yourself, and it is even likely that the result of your efforts will turn out to be absolutely correct and suitable for your real situation. But is it worth spending so much time and effort on an operation that a professional will perform quickly and with a guaranteed result?!
Which option for air exchange calculations you chose is not so important. The main thing is that everything has been calculated, and now you need to look at ventilation projects in a private house and choose the most favorable one for your home. And in this case, it is better to consult with a specialist who knows how to make the work easier and still get a well-functioning ventilation system. In addition, an experienced craftsman will be able to tell you where to purchase high-quality materials at an affordable price, and in what quantities they will be needed during installation. But a person can easily install household ventilation pipes on his own, without involving hired workers. Here's what such an installation looks like - a video from a jack-of-all-trades specialist:
Well, the algorithm of actions is simple - the main thing is to decide on the type of ventilation to be installed, and installing it is a trifle, an everyday matter. So start thinking about it, and then do it. Fresh air for your home!
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