Proper pruning of fruit trees. Pruning fruit trees and shrubs in autumn. Hedge trimming

Any novice gardener comes to master the principles and rules of pruning fruit trees. Without the procedure, the plant begins to grow additional shoots and produce less fruit; moreover, pests actively multiply on it.

Goals of the procedure

Even stone fruit trees need to be pruned after some time, despite the fact that they are very young. Post-planting pruning of seedlings leads to early yield, but the “skeleton” necessary for further development is not formed.

Pruning fruit trees must be carried out according to the rules, otherwise it can only cause harm. A large number of fruits on a thin trunk causes exhaustion, the plant begins to wither and may eventually dry out.

Thinning significantly increases the lifespan of a fruit tree. A smaller amount of foliage will allow for effective preventive actions against insects.

A tree that is properly pruned will develop better wood throughout the entire trunk. In addition, plants that have many branches produce low yields and the fruits are small. With dense foliage, the flowers do not receive enough light, so they often fall off, and the fruits at the ripening stage turn out to be sour, without the aroma characteristic of the tree.

If the plant is not pruned, it will begin to grow upward faster, caring for it becomes more difficult, and it is not possible to spray the entire crown. Humidity, which remains inside the dense crown, is the main cause of fungal diseases. After the rain has passed, the moisture necessary for the development of small spores remains on the leaves. IN in this case pruning can be perceived as an additional preventative measure when caring for an orchard.

In agricultural technology, pruning has been and remains one of the most important techniques for creating a good, fruit-bearing garden. Removing unnecessary branches results in longevity and resistance to cold weather.

Trees can be trimmed in two ways:

thin out;
shorten.

When thinning, the branches are removed completely, and when shortening, only from the first bud upward.

When the gardener removes what he thinks are unnecessary branches, the plant begins to replenish what was lost, and its growth intensifies, numerous growths appear, the main task is to correctly form the crown at this time, leaving only those branches that are capable of creating a strong skeleton.

It is the skeletal branches that need to be shortened so that growth appears on them, on which fruits will ripen in the future. Additional shoots should be trimmed further so that they do not interfere with the main ones. The formation of a tree takes place over five years, and for some late varieties apple trees - up to ten years.

During the fruiting period, the number of branches increases, extra shoots appear that thicken the crown, so the fruits are located inside behind the foliage; they do not receive enough light there, so they ripen unsweetened. That is why it is necessary to shorten annual shoots; sometimes they need to be removed entirely, observing the order of sap flow.

The branches are also pruned at the fruiting stage, when many overgrown branches form on the crown; as a result, inside the entire tree, the old shoots begin to wither, dry out and break. The gardener is required to systematically thin out the crown and remove small and unnecessary branches. When the fruiting period ends, the tree is rejuvenated; in the future, the harvest will only grow if productive shoots are left.

Deadlines

Fruit trees need to be pruned in spring, autumn and summer; in winter they remain dormant. In this case, the time for shortening the branches depends on the region where the tree grows. Not recommended autumn procedure in the northern and central regions of our country, since frosts come early there and the tree does not have time to close its wounds, sap flow stops and the plant may simply die.

For these regions, pruning is recommended in early spring when the air temperature is already above zero. They begin to tidy up the garden with old trees, since the buds bloom faster on them. All unnecessary branches should be pruned before the buds open.

In the south of the country, some gardeners remove excess shoots in winter, since severe frosts are not observed there. During this period, the procedure helps to rejuvenate the plant and give the young seedlings the correct shape. It is necessary to young tree did not begin to bear fruit too early, which negatively affects its development as a whole. If a tree has fruited abundantly for several years in a row, then it needs to be allowed to rest.

If we talk about the ideal size of a tree, then it should not exceed three meters in height. The crown width in diameter should also be 3 meters. Pruning excess branches in summer improves the quality of the fruit; wounds on the tree heal quickly, since sap is actively produced, which completely covers the cut.

Experienced gardeners prefer a procedure carried out in early spring, since the plant has time to recover over the summer and autumn.

In summer, not all trees can be pruned, preferably only those that are over three years old. In spring and autumn, crown formation is allowed on annual shoots. After ten years, the tree is considered old, it can no longer bear fruit as before, so it is rejuvenated by removing most of the old shoots. There should not be more than three cuts on one branch.

It is better to start shaping cherries, apricots and plums when there is already foliage on the branches, since early pruning can lead to fungal infection of the cuts.

Types and methods of pruning

An inexperienced gardener does not know that there are different types of pruning. fruit trees. Despite the fact that the process always boils down to one action - removing unnecessary branches, the purpose of such work may vary. It happens:

formative;
regulating;
rejuvenating;
restorative;
sanitary

When the main goal of the gardener is to create the correct shape of the crown, this procedure is called shaping. It is best to start work in February and early March, when active sap flow begins. If you are late, the tree will develop more slowly and there will be practically no harvest.

The gardener is required to correctly place the skeletal guides, which in the future will be a frame that can support the total weight of the fruit.

A young, actively growing tree needs to be adjusted minimally, just to provide the fruits with the required amount of light. This procedure is called regulatory pruning; it is carried out from February to April or at the end of summer.

Old trees are rejuvenated; the gardener, by removing old branches, stimulates the growth of new, more viable ones. On any tree you will need to remove old and dried shoots. This restoration procedure can be carried out at any time of the year, but better in spring.

If a gardener pursues health as his main goal orchard, then sanitary treatment will be required, which is carried out at any convenient time, but not in winter.

Remove shoots that are damaged by insects or disease, remove them at the root, and it is necessary to treat the tools afterwards.

Required Tools

To work in the garden you will need pruning shears, with which you can quickly and easily remove small branches. These garden shears have a ratcheting mechanism; in order to get a quality cut, you need to sharpen the blades regularly.

Construction saws are completely unsuitable for processing fruit trees; you must use a special hacksaw with shallow gaps between the teeth and high-quality sharpening.

To remove shoots located at a distance of two meters, an elongated pruner is required, the design of which includes an elongated handle. You can purchase a model with telescopic handle, which allows you to adjust the cutting height.

Massive trunks can only be removed with a chainsaw. You also need to have a stepladder and special clothing, including gloves, on hand.

It is best to wear safety glasses to prevent wood chips from getting into your eyes.

How to trim correctly?

There is a tree pruning chart for beginners as it can be difficult for them to decide where to start. The first to be removed are the shoots at the top, which resemble crow's feet. The next in line crossing shoots are sure to cut off those that grow towards the ground. Over time, young growth appears on the trunk, and this is also removed.

Young and old trees are shaped differently. If it is only a seedling, then before the fruiting period begins, it is necessary to form the future frame. The crown should grow evenly in all directions; one-year-old branches that lead to thickening of the crown are removed. When everything is done correctly, within a few years the tree will form an excellent fruit-bearing frame.

Young trees are pruned every year due to the intensity of growth. It is best to carry out the procedure in the fall.

In adult plants, it is much easier to form a crown. The main thing is to remove branches that are already old; ovaries practically do not form on them; they only consume the vital forces of the plant. The first time the crown is reduced several levels down, shoots are removed only from the south side.

Later, the “tops” that formed after the previous procedure are removed. The rest of the crown rejuvenates gradually, best time– late autumn and winter.

Aftercare

After pruning, you must continue to care for the trees. Treat them against insects, if possible, treat the cut areas with lime or varnish, which you can prepare yourself. This requirement is mandatory for shoots whose diameter is more than one centimeter. You can replace tar and lime with paint that contains drying oil.

New shoots will form in the place where the branch was removed; they are cut off with pruning shears. Plants must be fertilized so that they receive the necessary amount of microelements for further development. Potassium chloride and phosphorus are added to the root, or simple ash can be used.

Watch the following video for a master class on pruning fruit trees.

The process of pruning fruit trees has many goals, the main of which are: care, activation of growth and development processes, as well as protection from diseases. But the most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the harvest. However, positive results can only be achieved if the pruning is done technically correctly, with high-quality garden tools, and most importantly - in a timely manner. This article will discuss the correct pruning of fruit trees.

When is it necessary to prune the crown of fruit trees?

For each type and age of fruit trees, there is a period that is most suitable for pruning. The ranges of the procedure can be divided into several.

Autumn-winter. Pruning is carried out immediately after the complete fall of the leaf cover and the end of the movement of tree sap. This period is also called rest time. On the one hand, it is believed that this is the most favorable time for pruning trees. But on the other hand, it is during this period that, due to the lack of movement of tree sap, it is more difficult for the cut sites to heal. In addition, when pruning in low temperatures, you can freeze the shoots, which will lead to their damage and disruption of fruiting function.
Spring-summer. It begins from the moment the first movement of tree sap appears - this is the so-called vegetative period, and lasts until the fruit is harvested. Exactly this the right time for grafting and pruning fruit trees. An unsatisfactory result can be corrected before the onset of the cold season.

In addition to seasonal guidelines, before you start pruning fruit trees, it is worth considering a number of at least important factors, such as:

site location;
wind speed;
presence of precipitation;
temperature below 0°;

Tools for pruning fruit trees

Fundamental during the period of tree pruning are not only seasonal and weather, but also the quality of the instruments. The requirements for them are quite simple; they must be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. What you might need for pruning.

Secateurs. Refers to a type of garden shears. In addition to the main requirement - the sharpness of the blades, the tool must be light and easy to use, since usually pruning one tree takes a fairly long period of time. It is important to pay attention to the action of the ratchet mechanism; it will determine how hard you have to press the handles. In addition, the blades should have a small gap, otherwise the young shoots will get stuck in them, causing additional work.

Garden hacksaw. The blades must be well sharpened and have a tapered shape towards the end of the blade. The gaps between the teeth should have shallow cavities for the accumulation of sawdust material. Construction saws are not suitable for pruning fruit trees, as they can cause additional damage to the trunk.
Extended pruning shears. Differs from manual option, the presence of a long handle. This form is excellent for cutting shoots that are slightly taller than human height, without the use of additional funds in the form of a stepladder or ladder. There are options with a telescopic tube, which makes it possible to adjust the cutting height.

When pruning trees, you may need additional tools.

Chainsaw will speed up the process of cutting massive trunks, especially for mature trees.

Ladder or stepladder will allow you to form the crown of the fruit tree.
Workwear, complemented by protective gloves, will eliminate unnecessary injuries during work.
Glasses will be needed during cutting, to protect the eyes from sawdust and small chips.

Techniques for forming and pruning fruit trees

WITH technical point There are three types of tree pruning.

"On the kidney." This pruning method allows you to set the most correct direction for branch growth. As a rule, only young annual shoots are pruned in this way by cutting over the selected bud. During the procedure, the pruning shear blade should be directed towards the branch.

Important: the cutting angle should be as close as possible to 45° so that the bud is not “cut down”. In addition, it is necessary to avoid excessively sharp cuts, in which case the remaining kidney will lack nutrients. And too long a residual shoot may dry out and in the future it will have to be completely cut down, which will disrupt the process of crown formation.

"On the ring." Such pruning is carried out only with the aim of completely removing one or more branches. The reason may be a violation of the penetration of light into the crown or the wrong direction of the branches. In the latter case, the shoots take part of the nutrients, which can be distributed among more promising branches in terms of yield. If the shoot is relatively young and its thickness allows, then pruning is done with pruning shears, otherwise a garden hacksaw is used.

Note: there are a number of nuances that you should not forget about when cutting a branch into a ring. Do not leave an excessively long shoot and do not cut it flush with the bark. It is considered correct to trim along the outer edge of the ring, which is formed by bulges of bark at the junction of the shoot and the trunk.

"On a side branch." This type pruning is the least traumatic for fruit trees and preserves most of their viable functions. Its direct purpose is to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. Ineffective branches are completely pruned, so that all the main functions are taken over by the side branches, gradually replacing the main ones.

Types of pruning fruit trees

In addition to various technological aspects of pruning, there are also types of this process that determine the further development of the fruit tree and its productivity:

Formative. All actions are aimed at designing the future crown; as a result, the required density and shape should be formed. The best time for such pruning is February, early March. As a result, during the period of active movement of sap, which begins at the end of March, the fruit tree will be maximally fruit-bearing. Late formative pruning will cause delayed plant development or lack of harvest as such.

Important: properly designed skeletal (guide) branches, throughout the entire growth and development of the plant, will serve as a reliable frame, resistant to any loads, which will allow it to withstand even the heaviest harvest.

Regulating. Suitable for actively growing trees that require minimal adjustment. The illumination of the crown and the density of young shoots must be maintained in proper condition. Potentially successful period: February-April or August-September. During any of these periods, the fresh cut quickly closes and does not release tree sap.
Rejuvenating the species is intended for old trees. The main goal is to restore active fruiting. Pruning time: early spring and late autumn. This pruning is effective in stimulating the growth of new shoots and restoring the viability of a withering tree. Even if an “adult” tree gives good harvest, he still needs rejuvenating pruning from time to time, awakening the adventitious buds.

Seasonal pruning has a number of nuances that should be taken into account in order to avoid causing harm to the fruit tree.

Pruning fruit trees in spring

Spring is the most productive and successful season of the year for pruning fruit trees. It is important to wait for the final change in temperatures after winter so that the last frosts pass. Pruning must be done strictly before the first buds swell. Dry weather with temperatures above 0° will be ideal. Fruit trees should be pruned in the following sequence:
Pruning begins with older trees. After all, they are the main fruit-bearing composition. And only after this can the young seedlings be pruned. The reason lies in different periods awakening the kidneys.
If there are apple trees growing on the site, you need to start with them. After all, it is this tree that is most resistant to frost, and if the temperature drops again, after pruning this tree will not suffer, unlike others. But it is better to prune pears and cherries closer to May.

Regarding shoots, pruning begins with the least promising ones. What does it mean? Dry or damaged by frost, as well as insects, having intersections with others - these are shoots that interfere normal functioning crowns
Large fruit branches can only be cut down using the “ring” option. The cut area must be covered with a special solution or wet clay - this way it will heal faster and will not harm the entire tree.

Summer tree pruning

The process of pruning fruit trees can be carried out in summer period. The main purpose of such a procedure is only a slight adjustment regarding branches damaged by frost, if they were not identified in early spring. After all, during the period of active flowering it is much easier to identify shortcomings.

In addition to clearing incapacitated shoots, a number of activities can be carried out during this period.

Pinching (clothespin) is the process of cutting off the upper part of a branch. The young shoot can be easily cut with garden shears or pruning shears.

Pinching is an adjustment option that is performed when the buds produce young shoots and it is enough to break them out. The technique is quite similar to standard pruning, the only difference is that pruning occurs without intervention garden tools. Surprisingly, it is this option that has a beneficial effect on tightening the break point; it happens faster and less painfully.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn

The most favorable period for pruning fruit trees is, of course, autumn. It is thanks to it that the tree is prepared for changes in cold temperatures. The most important purpose of autumn pruning is sanitary treatment, that is, the removal of excessive dry, painful and damaged shoots. Thanks to such actions, tree pests and microorganisms will not be able to move to the healthy part of the fruit tree.
Among other things, autumn pruning of trees allows you to create the most effective conditions for ventilation and lighting of the crown. And distributing tree sap to healthy branches will increase yields for next year.

Note: before the onset of cold weather, all large cuts must be treated with a special protective composition, this will have a beneficial effect on speedy healing and preparation for low temperatures. Winter pruning of fruit trees is not recommended.

Fruit tree pruning schemes

Knowing all the principles and types of pruning fruit trees, it is still difficult to imagine where to start the procedure, especially for beginners in the field of gardening. A rough plan for pruning a tree can help a non-specialist in this matter.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the apical shoots - removing thin forks of branches in the form of “crow's feet”.

Next, you need to get rid of the crossing of branches; to do this, you need to trim the shoots directed towards the soil.
Particular attention should be paid to the space around the trunk: trim branches directed towards it and young shoots.
The formation of the crown is carried out by removing thickening (growing too close) and top branches (shoots from dormant buds).

The described method is ideal for annual pruning of a well-developing tree, but the methods of forming young seedlings and old trees have a number of certain differences.

Pruning young seedlings

From the moment of disembarkation young seedling into the ground and before fruiting begins, the main task will be to form a tree frame from skeletal branches, monitor the growth of fresh shoots and lay down future fruit formations. To ensure all these points, it is necessary to ensure crown growth - evenly in all directions. Therefore, one-year-old shoots and branches that thicken the crown mass are pruned. Actively growing shoots are truncated by 50%, and slower shoots by 25%. Thanks to such manipulations, the crown of a young seedling becomes powerful and fruit-bearing in a few years.
Young seedlings are pruned annually due to their rapid growth. The most successful period for pruning them is considered to be late autumn. After leaf fall, all damaged and excess shoots are removed. This not only allows you to prepare the tree for winter, but also achieves high-quality air exchange and lighting of the crown.

Pruning fruit trees video

Pruning mature fruit trees

It is quite easy to form the crown of new plantings; the main thing is to follow all the rules. But as for old fruit trees, certain steps must be followed. This is due to the fact that the entire harvest on such trees, as a rule, is located at the very top of the crown; the fruits are relatively small size and appear irregularly.
The painstaking process of reviving old fruit trees is carried out over several years and consists of the following activities.
In the first year, the crown is pruned several levels down and only on the south side of the tree. All work should be carried out with the aim of transferring the main branches to the side branch.
In the next season, it is mandatory to trim the “tops” formed during the previous procedure. Otherwise, they will absorb nutrients that are so necessary for the living part of the tree. The removal process is carried out “on a ring” basis; the time of year does not affect the quality of the procedure.

In subsequent years, the remaining part of the crown is trimmed, and then the “wolves” are cleared.
The most favorable period for pruning old trees is winter time. This is due to the fact that during this period, fresh cuts do not rot and pests cannot infest them.

There are certain nuances, by observing which you can carry out high-quality pruning of fruit trees, even if a person is doing this for the first time.

When carrying out the most severe pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), it is imperative to observe a periodicity of a year, or even two. Do not forget that the option of deep pruning is very traumatic for the plant, as a result of which a significant part of it may die.
If you want to get the most out of a fruit tree rapid growth, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruit-bearing buds.
Do not touch frozen branches of a fruit tree in winter. It is still recommended to wait until spring - then the picture of the dead areas will be more complete and they can be carefully removed.
When pruning, it is important to maintain the subordination of the branches. This means that the number of main and secondary branches must be uniform, otherwise the crown may be oversaturated with branches or excessively thinned out.
When cutting branches around the main trunk, you should not leave branches close to it, i.e. located at an acute angle.
It's important to remember that maximum level It is the horizontal branches that differ in fruiting. This should be taken into account when pruning fruit trees to regulate the amount of harvest.

Large diameter cuts must be processed special composition: garden varnish or heteroauxin - this will speed up the healing of the plant. Here's the use oil paint Not recommended as a coating for cuts.
Young trees need to be trimmed minimally - only to form a crown. Excessive changes can lead to deterioration in fruiting properties.

The painstaking work that goes into pruning fruit trees in the garden pays off over time. a decent harvest fruit. The most important thing is to adhere to generally accepted recommendations, because a seemingly simple process at first glance actually requires the performer not only to adhere to technology, but also to be careful.

Trees in the garden require care all year round, and how competently it is carried out, the longevity and productivity of fruit crops depend. One of the most important points in caring for trees and shrubs is pruning, the main task of which is correct formation crowns Formation begins at a young age, and its essence boils down to leaving and stimulating the necessary branches for development and fruiting, and removing those that interfere, those that grow incorrectly, old and diseased ones. Along with such care measures as fertilizing and protection from pests and diseases, proper pruning helps the plant to evenly distribute nutrition and strength, so the harvest on trees with a well-formed crown is abundant and the fruits are of high quality.

Fruit tree pruning

Pruning is the complete or partial removal of shoots and branches, a way of caring for decorative and fruit bushes and trees, serving to regulate their development, growth and fruiting. In addition to the formative function, pruning also performs a sanitary function - it thins out the crown and frees the tree or bush from branches that endanger the health of the plant and jeopardize its longevity. And if the tree has reached an advanced age, then timely rejuvenating pruning will give it new strength and prolong the years, practically without reducing the quantitative and qualitative indicators of the harvest.

Tree pruning is done both in spring and autumn; in some cases, trees are pruned even in summer. Let's make a reservation right away: autumn pruning of trees is permissible only in areas with mild, non-cold winters, and in the northern regions it is better to carry out this procedure in the spring, since frosts that occur soon after autumn pruning lead to freezing of the bark at the cut sites and dry out the wood, which, as a rule, leads to plant death. There are types of fruit trees that are pruned every year, or even twice a year, and there are those that do not need annual pruning.

Each agricultural technique has its own rules, and tree pruning is no exception. When to prune trees of certain types and how to prune fruit trees in the fall are the topics of our conversation.

Apple tree pruning

When to prune an apple tree

Apple trees are pruned in the spring, in rare cases in the summer, when there is not enough light for the ripening fruits in the dense crown, and also in the fall. However, if in the spring, before the start of sap flow, the consequences of winter are eliminated with the help of pruning shears - the frozen ends of the branches are removed, while simultaneously forming the crown of the tree, then pruning in November is carried out mainly for the purpose of sanitation of the crown. The procedure begins after all the leaves have fallen from the trees. Pruning of a columnar apple tree is carried out either at the beginning of summer or before winter.

Pruning an apple tree in autumn

In the fall, old branches are pruned, as well as rotten, broken, damaged branches. Since the tree is in a dormant state, pruning branches is stress-free. How to prune an apple tree in the fall? Here's roughly the plan:

First of all, cut off large broken or dried branches;
cut out the weakest branches that grow too close to each other;
trim branches that grow at an acute angle;
cover all cuts with garden varnish or drying oil paint: wounds on dry branches are treated immediately, and on young ones - only after a day;
Burn all cut branches.

In the photo: Growing an apple tree in the garden

Young apple trees are lightly pruned with pruning shears - the current year's growth is shortened by a quarter of the length. After this, the growing apple trees, unless they grow in height too quickly, are not pruned for three to five years, removing only dry and broken branches if necessary. Five to six year old apple trees need moderate pruning: strong branches are cut by a third. Heavy pruning is used in cases of thickening of the crown: to thin it out, the branches are shortened by half.

Rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees is carried out in three stages: approximately a third of the old branches are cut out in one year, the next third of the old branches are cut out a year later, and the last third after another year. The pruning shears will not take strong mature branches; you will have to use a saw. All tools you use to trim branches should be sharp and thoroughly disinfected.

Pruning columnar apple trees

As for columnar apple trees, you should know that the more you cut, the more actively what you left grows. If you cut off more than half of the branch, the remaining 3-4 buds will produce powerful shoots next year. If you cut less than half of the branch, the remaining 5-7 buds will produce 5-7 medium shoots.

You cannot cut off the central conductor of the column, otherwise the crown will branch out. Forming the crown in a columnar manner, in the year of planting the crown shoot of the seedling is tied to a support, and fruit links are formed from the side shoots, and if they are too powerful, they are cut into a ring so that they do not retard the growth of the conductor, and they wait for new shoots to grow from which can be used to form the skeleton of the crown.

Pear pruning

When to prune a pear

Beginners in gardening believe that pruning a pear tree is no different from pruning an apple tree, but this is not entirely true. We will tell you about when and how to prune a pear, and you do it yourself comparative analysis. Pear trees, like apple trees, are not recommended to be pruned every year.

Autumn sanitary pruning of pears is permissible as long as the temperature outside is above zero, but if frosts unexpectedly hit, then pruning must be postponed until spring - trees cannot be pruned in cold weather, since the wounds remaining after pruning not only do not heal, but also lead to freezing of the branches, which is why they die. It is best to prune a pear in the spring, when the air temperature warms up to 8 ºC.

However, if there is a need to do this in the fall, then pruning in September is quite acceptable, but not later. The most convenient crown shape for harvesting is pyramidal, and this must be taken into account when formative pruning of pears.

In the photo: Pears on a tree

Pruning pears in autumn

The formation of the crown of pear trees begins already in the first year of life: it is very important to determine the skeletal branches immediately, so that in the future the crown develops correctly and symmetrically. Annual seedlings are pruned at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground. In two-year-old trees that have already acquired 6-8 lateral branches, select 3-4 of them as skeletal branches and prune them at the same level. The conductor is cut 20 cm higher than the skeletal branches.

Pruning older trees in the fall primarily serves sanitary purposes: removing branches that thicken the crown, diseased branches, and those damaged during the fruiting period. It also doesn’t hurt to shorten the annual shoots by a third of the length, and even the crown if the pear is stretching upward too much - this will strengthen the tree, enhance its branching and serve as an impetus for enhanced bud development. However, when pruning, try not to disturb the pyramidal shape of the crown. After completing the procedure, treat cuts and damaged bark with garden varnish: on old, dry branches immediately, and on young, green branches only after a day.

To prune to rejuvenate an old pear, you need to start by shortening its top, but if you have been conscientiously pruning the tree from year to year, and the height of the crown corresponds to optimal indicators, then proceed to thinning it: remove dry, old, non-fruiting branches, cut out shoots , growing at an acute angle or parallel to the trunk, and shorten the remaining shoots by a quarter of the length. Treat all sections with garden varnish or drying oil paint.

To be fair, it should be said that rejuvenating pruning of old pear branches is less painful for the plant in the spring, when the air temperature reaches 5 ºC, but the buds have not yet woken up.

Pruning plum

When to prune a plum

Plum, like other garden trees, requires care all year round, and it must be pruned at different times as necessary. In the spring, before the buds open, frozen areas are removed from the plum and prepared for the growing season, forming a crown. In the summer, sometimes you have to help the tree cope with a bountiful harvest by preventing branches from breaking off by pruning, and in the fall, when the leaf fall ends, it is necessary to prepare the tree for winter.

In the photo: Fruiting plum tree

Pruning plum trees in autumn

Autumn pruning of plums, in addition to preparing the tree for wintering, is designed to increase its yield. When the growing season is completed and all the leaves have been shed, and the plum begins to prepare for sleep, dry and broken branches affected by insects or disease are removed from the tree, and if the top has grown above 2.5 m, then it should be shortened. Then shoots that are growing too actively are pruned, competing shoots are removed, which in the spring, having started to grow, will begin to thicken the crown, preventing the penetration of sunlight into it.

In young trees, shoots are trimmed from above and on the sides by no more than a third, and branches growing inside the crown are completely removed. Pruning of old branches is left for the spring, but if you need to do it in the fall, remove the stem branches that have not bear fruit this year, trim dead wood and branches infected with fungi or pests. All trimmings must be burned and the cuts processed. Old plums need to be pruned in the spring, because the wounds on them heal slowly, gum often begins to leak from them, and winter frosts can destroy a tree that could still grow and bear fruit for many years.

Cherry pruning

When to prune cherries

Cherries do not need pruning every year, but if such a need is ripe, formative and rejuvenating pruning is carried out in the spring, but this is a serious topic for a long article. In autumn, cherries are subjected to only sanitary pruning. The time for pruning cherries in the fall depends on the weather and climatic conditions of the region, for example, in areas with a cool climate, cherries are pruned in September, and in places with warm winters Pruning in October is quite acceptable.

The main sign that it’s time to start pruning is the end of leaf fall, but if weather forecasters predict the imminent onset of frost, it is better to postpone the pruning procedure until spring.

In the photo: Cherry fruits

Pruning cherries in autumn

Annual seedlings are not pruned in the fall, since they do not yet have enough strength to recover before frost. For older trees, up to five strong branches directed to the sides are left, growing no closer than 10 cm from each other. Mature trees are subjected to sanitary pruning, if necessary - broken, dry and diseased branches are removed. It is also necessary to remove all the growth, which weakens the tree and serves as a refuge for small rodents and harmful insects in winter.

If the cherry is rooted, the shoots can be used as planting material, since it saves varietal characteristics mother plant. The growth of grafted cherries is not suitable for this purpose, and the harm from it can be great, so it must be destroyed. Rejuvenating pruning of old cherries and formative pruning of young trees is done in the spring.

Apricot pruning

When to prune an apricot

Apricots are pruned in spring, summer and autumn, and in the spring the pruning is thorough - formative, sanitary, and, if necessary, rejuvenating. In summer, pruning is done only when there is a danger that the branches may break under the weight of the fruit. The task of autumn sanitary pruning is to prepare the apricot for wintering.

In the photo: Rich harvest of apricots

Apricot pruning in autumn

Before you start pruning, you need to determine what type of crown you want to form on the tree - tiered or non-tiered. If you have limited space, it may make sense to cup the crown, which involves shortening the branches by about half. But no matter what shape of the crown you form, in the fall you must remove all diseased, dry and broken branches, thin out the crown, removing shoots and branches growing inward - sanitary pruning of apricots must be done in the fall. However, it should be noted that apricot is a heat-loving crop, so be careful and try not to apply deep cuts, and if you do wound the tree, treat the wound with copper sulfate and cover it with garden varnish to prevent gum formation.

Peach pruning

When to trim a peach

Just like other garden trees, the peach, which until recently was outlandish in our gardens, can be pruned at any time of the year, except winter. In the spring, the tree is put in order after wintering, shaping the crown or correcting it, trimming the frozen ends of the shoots, and doing rejuvenating pruning of old trees. In summer, pruning is carried out only if the need arises. Autumn pruning, as you probably already understood, has the goal of preparing the peach tree for winter.

In the photo: Peaches on the tree

Peach pruning in autumn

In the fall, you will need to trim off all unnecessary and diseased branches so that they do not take away nutrition from healthy branches that are promising for fruiting. When freeing a tree from branches infected with some disease or affected by pests, do not forget to burn such branches so that the disease and pest larvae do not spread throughout the garden. After sanitary pruning, do not forget to treat the cuts with garden varnish or oil paint.

Cherry pruning

When to prune cherries

It is better to form the crown of cherries in the spring, but autumn pruning of cherries is carried out not only for sanitary purposes, like other garden trees, but also in order to rejuvenate the tree - these are the recommendations of most experts. However, there are practitioners who believe that pruning cherries in the fall should be done only in emergency cases - in order to remove diseased or injured shoots. Heavy pruning of cherries in the fall slows down their fruiting.

It’s up to you to decide what to do correctly. You can try rejuvenating pruning in the fall, and if you don’t like the results, next time reschedule the pruning until the spring.

In the photo: Ripe cherries on a branch

Pruning cherries in autumn

Professionals recommend forming the crown of the cherry tree in the shape of a cone with a wide base - it warms up and is well lit, and air circulates freely between the branches. You can also form the crown in a cup-shape or in tiers. In the fall, after the leaves fall, remove all diseased, dry, broken and disease- or pest-damaged branches and shoots. In order to rejuvenate the crowns, branches six to eight years old are cut into rings, and the sections must be treated with garden varnish or oil paint.

Pruning other garden trees

As you already understand, the main, intensive pruning of all fruit trees, except apple and pear trees, is best done in the spring, when the air temperature is already above zero, but the buds on the trees have not yet swelled. Ahead warm days, during which trees recover much faster from wounds and stress caused by pruning. On the eve of winter, it is better to limit yourself to only the most necessary measures– removing branches that will needlessly deprive the tree of nutrition in winter.

The same principle is used for autumn pruning of all, not just the described garden trees - quince, sea buckthorn, serviceberry, cherry plum, viburnum, mulberry and others.

In the photo: Fruit ripening

We offer you a description of some of the techniques used in tree pruning:

Bud cut: Using this type of pruning, you can change the growth of the branch in the desired direction. Select a bud on a one-year-old shoot that faces right side, and cut the branch near it at an angle of 45º so that there is no too large stump left on the side of the shoot opposite the bud - a thorn 1.5-2 mm high is enough, since a taller one may dry out and the bud will not awaken in the spring.
Ring cut: In order to remove an incorrectly growing branch that wastes nutrition from the tree, it is cut off completely along the outer edge of the ring - a kind of influx of bark at the junction of the cut branch with the one that remains. In this way, you will transfer the course of growth from an unnecessary branch to a necessary one, making the side branch the main one.

To care for garden trees The following types of pruning are used: formative, regulating, rejuvenating, restorative and sanitary.

Layer garden var applied to the wound should be no thinner than 3-5 mm. Instead of this time-tested product, it has recently been recommended to use latex paints containing copper salts, as well as the so-called artificial bark - a composition that accelerates tissue restoration and protects the wound from drying out, moisture and harmful microorganisms entering it.

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Garden trees and shrubs need competent and proper care all year round. To reap a bountiful harvest and be proud of a thriving, healthy garden, it is necessary to regularly prune trees in spring and autumn. After getting acquainted with the basic information, you can easily turn even the oldest tree into a young one, and receive fruits from it already next year!

How to prune trees correctly

The formation of the crown begins from the moment the seedling is planted and continues throughout its life. Dramatic transformation, deep and abundant cuts, experienced gardeners It is recommended to carry out in early spring, as soon as the temperature rises above zero. As a rule, this period occurs at the end of February or the beginning of March. At this time, the trees are in “hibernation” and will easily survive open cuts when active sap flow begins in the branches.

Autumn pruning is permissible only in southern regions with warm winters. In other areas, it is recommended to carry it out solely for sanitary purposes - to remove old, interfering and diseased branches. Let's look at examples of how to prune different fruit crops.

How to prune an apple tree

It is customary to prune the branches of ranetki and apple trees in spring and autumn. Summer removal occurs in the most urgent cases, for example, if there are not enough fruits sunlight due to the crown being too thick.

A newly planted tree needs to be pruned with pruning shears to 5 buds. A shortened stamp will ensure that the branches are raised above ground level, forming the correct crown, and root system the seedling will begin to grow faster.
The next removal is carried out exactly one year later, in the spring. By this time, 5-6 main strong branches should be leaving the trunk; they should not be disturbed. Side shoots should be trimmed, removing one from each by one quarter. (Fig.2)

Gardeners recommend not touching the developing seedling for the next 3-5 years, with the exception of cutting off diseased and dried branches.

How to prune a pear

Planting, growing and caring for a pear tree is much more difficult than an apple tree. In winter, the southern plant often freezes or even dies under the influence of severe frosts; it is for this reason that it is safest to form a crown and remove old branches in early spring.

For the first time, you need to remove exactly half of all thin, weak branches, leaving only straight and strong ones that will be able to withstand a bountiful harvest of the fruit tree.
Every year after harvesting, the tree is carefully inspected for the presence of dry and weak branches and, if necessary, pruned.
In early spring, the crown forms - you need to cut off last year's shoots by one third.

To rejuvenate an old, neglected tree and increase productivity, you need to trim the top of the trunk branches to the point of growth of the lateral branches, and reduce the volume of the skeletal branches by half.

How to trim a cherry tree

Sweet cherries and cherries do not require annual pruning. But it should be understood that the more dense the tree is, the greater the chance that the fruit buds will move to the ends of the branches, and the gardener will receive a significantly lower yield. Sanitary pruning is usually carried out in the fall, after the leaves have completely fallen off.

First, thin out the crown, give it more light and air.
Remove dry and diseased branches, if any.
Then remove branches that interfere with each other and intertwine. The ideal distance between branches should be 10-15 cm.
You also need to dig out the growth that appears, which weakens mature tree and serves as an excellent shelter for hibernating pests and insects.

Annual seedlings are not pruned in winter, since they do not yet have enough strength to recover before the first frost.

How to trim a plum

Some plum varieties begin to bear fruit as early as three years of age. However, it is not always possible to obtain a full-fledged good harvest. One of the reasons for the lack of fruit is an overly thickened crown. Plum branches grow very quickly, so experts advise paying special attention to their formation.

When planting a tree in early spring, pruning is carried out immediately to 5-6 buds. The stamp from the ground to the end should be no more than 40 cm.
For the first years after planting, it is necessary to regulate the size of the side branches. If their length is more than 60 cm, shorten them by one third.
Branches that grow at an acute angle to the trunk must be separated to the sides by hanging a small load on a rope.
Carry out subsequent pruning systematically - remove crooked, broken, weak and diseased branches.

With the right approach, the crown should form in the shape of a bowl. Then the light will reach every bud, and the plum will thank you with a good harvest.

How to prune other garden trees

For sea buckthorn, cherry plum, serviceberry, honeysuckle, quince, viburnum and others, the rules and timing for the formation of a beautiful crown are no different from those described above in the article. The principle is the same - you need to remove old branches, diseased ones and those that interfere with each other. You can make a cut in two ways:

Ring cut - the branch is removed with a saw or sharp knife along the rounded edge of the branch. At the end, you should be left with a beautiful, even cut, which must be treated with garden varnish.
Cutting to a bud helps change the growth of the branch in the direction you want. To do this, in the spring, a branch is removed above the desired bud, leaving a stump of no more than 2 mm.

To rejuvenate an old tree, you need to trim not only the crown, but also the roots. On the side from which you are pruning the branches, you need to dig a large trench 70 by 70. Place mineral and organic fertilizers, then fill the soil back. Thanks to this method you will cut off the old roots, at the same time rejuvenate and feed the tree.

A good owner is always pleased with a young fruit-bearing garden, but the longevity and productivity of trees will depend on competent, timely care of the plants. Perhaps the most important point In the process of growth, as well as the formation of the crown of fruit trees, pruning is necessary. Its essence is to stimulate the development and fruiting of the necessary branches and remove interfering, improperly growing, old, diseased branches. When proper pruning helps the plant distribute nutrition and strength evenly, you can hope for a bountiful, high-quality harvest.

Pruning, that is, complete or partial removal of branches, should be done to regulate the growth, development and fruiting of the plant. There are several types of pruning - formative, rejuvenating, pruning to reduce height, to reduce crown volume, and sanitary. In the first three to five years, formative pruning of the seedling is done.

When the crown is well-groomed, well-lit, and strong, then the onset of flowering and fruiting accelerates. You can make an old tree better, stimulate its growth, as well as the appearance of generative buds, increase productivity and activate growth processes with the help of anti-aging pruning. It should be carried out once every 3-4 years, when attenuation of apical growth is noticed. It is better to start improving the lighting of plants and increasing their productivity by reducing the height, as well as limiting the volume of their crown.

Sanitary pruning is a last resort for neglected fruit trees, when you have to remove broken and dried branches. There is no specific time when you need to do this type of pruning. The procedure for pruning plants can only be carried out at the right time, often late autumn - early spring. The weather will definitely make its own adjustments. It is important to remember that it is better to choose the plant's resting time. When the growing season of fruit trees ends and before the buds begin to swell.

Apple and pear trees should be pruned when they no longer have leaves. And fruit trees: plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach, cherry, sweet cherry and almond are best pruned the other way around, when foliage is present. At this time, there is less chance of infecting the plant with fungi and bacteria. For plums, this period is summer; the cut branches will have time to grow and also get stronger for the future harvest. It should be remembered that pruning fruit trees depends on the climatic conditions of your region. The times when each plant can be pruned for warm regions are highlighted in yellow; blue for cold regions, and green for general pruning times. Purpose summer pruning fruiting is the thinning of long young branches with fruits. It is better to shorten the branches now than they will break off and cause more damage to the tree.

Video “Correct pruning of fruit trees”

In winter, trees of winter-hardy crops can be pruned. It is, of course, better to choose the time of the thaw, since in severe frosts the wood will be fragile, the cuts will not be even, and the wounds will take a long time to heal. Even the cut points are left longer - about 5-15 cm - for protection; they will be removed later. If your seedlings are young, it is better to wait until spring comes. Stone fruit trees should not be pruned when there is dampness and moisture in the yard, as this can cause excessive gum production.

In summer, trees are very rarely pruned. Mainly due to the accumulation of assimilation products in plants and a decrease in leaf surface. When you remove what you think are unnecessary branches in the summer, you will weaken the tree and it will stop growing and developing. Deliberate weakening of the restoration process of trees is done only after the process of reducing the crown height. Definitely, in summer, old dried and frozen branches are better visible, and you can safely remove them.

It is in the summer that you can accurately determine the load of the current crop on the tree, so rejuvenating pruning of apricots, cherries and cherries is allowed. It is best to thin out pome-bearing fruit tree species in summer during a lean year.

What not to do

As already mentioned, trees cannot be pruned in severe frosts (down to −10°C); the tools do not cope well with fragile wood; the loosened tissues of the cuts shrink, and the wounds do not heal, which leads to damage to the buds and branches. Also, all sections should not be hermetically sealed with a special solution; such measures would be appropriate for sections larger than 2 cm in diameter. It should be remembered that large wounds on trees take about 2-3 years to heal.

You can only use a good sharp tool and a reliable ladder. If you worked with diseased plants, you should disinfect the tool with alcohol, otherwise you will infect healthy trees. If you planted a seedling in the fall, you do not need to prune it right away; it is better to wrap it and mulch it. Carry out pruning in the spring.

We remind you that pruning without harm to the plants must be done before the sap begins to flow. When pruning, do not leave sharp corners: you can avoid breaks and freezing. The correct angle would be 45 – 60°. Strive to replace poorly fruiting, old trees with young trees. Monitor the condition of the plants after pruning, use the experience gained independently in the future when working in your garden.

Video “How to prune fruit trees correctly”

If you still don’t know how to prune this crop, then the following video tutorial is especially for you.