In this article you will find a description of how to make decorative pendants with LED edge lighting with your own hands.
They are well suited for decorating children's rooms, as well as for any other room, for example, a hallway. You can put on plexiglass medallions images that are suitable for the occasion and age of the child - Santa Claus and a decorated Christmas tree for the New Year, angels for Easter, hearts for Valentine's Day, and illuminate them with LEDs. Use your imagination and you will get great results!
if you have laser machine for cutting plexiglass, you can skip the description of hand cutting and engraving. And who knows, maybe, if you have such a machine, you will start manufacturing and selling similar products.
So let's get started!
Download the PDF file to print the images used to make decorative lighting.
In the video you can see the process of making plexiglass figures.
Necessary materials
- Battery compartment AAAx3 (1 piece)
- Wood block with a section of 2.5x5 cm, length 30 cm (1 pc.)
- Wooden block with a section of 2.5x5 cm, length 15 cm (1 pc.)
- LEDs 3 mm (6 pcs.)
- Resistors 100 Ohm (6 pcs.)
- Pieces of plexiglass square shape 7.5x7.5 cm (6 pcs.)
- Eye bolt 1-¼″x5″ (1 pc.)
- Washer ¼″ with a diameter of 1-¼″ (2 pcs.)
- Hex nuts ¼″ (2 pcs.)
- Screws (2 pcs.)
- Small nails 2.5 cm
- Superglue or Moment glue
- Solder
- Self-adhesive paper (oracal vinyl film is best)
- Wires (two-core)
Paint (optional) 
Tools
- Dremel (universal high-speed hand tool for drilling, grinding, engraving, milling, etc.) or other tool with engraving attachments
- Sanding drum Dremel or sandpaper
- Soldering iron
- Wire scissors
- Wire stripper
- Small hammer
- Drill (better if used drilling machine)
- Drill 0.6 mm
- Drill 0.5 mm
- Drill 0.3 mm
- Hacksaw or plastic knife
- Hot air gun for heat-shrinkable tubes (can be replaced with a lighter)
Drill holes on the bracket bars (as shown in the photos). 
Solder a resistor to the positive leg of the LED. You can shorten the LED leads a little to save heat shrink tubing. 
Cut a piece of tube large enough to completely hide the LED leg with the resistor soldered to it. After this, put this piece of tube on the positive wire. 
Solder the resistor to the positive conductor (white in the example) and, by sliding a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing from the conductor onto the resistor, shrink the tube by applying heat to it. 
Solder another core (black in the example) of the wire to the negative terminal of the LED. 
Cut another piece of heat shrink tubing large enough to cover the exposed core. Put it on the opposite side of the wire, slide it onto the exposed section of the wire and shrink it using a heat gun. 
Remember that these LEDs are very sensitive to heat, so be as careful as possible when working. Better yet, buy them with a reserve in case you do make a mistake and ruin one of them while working.
Cut six square pieces of 7.5 x 7.5 cm from plexiglass. 
Cut off one of the corners of each of them, departing 0.5-0.6 mm from the top of the corner to create a plane for drilling a hole for the LED. 
Drill a hole in this surface with a 3mm drill bit. Using one of the LEDs, check the hole depth to ensure that the required depth is accurately achieved. It is recommended to use a drill press, but if you do not have one, use a smaller diameter centering drill first, and then, using a drill of the diameter we need, widen the centering hole. 
Plexiglas can be cut perfectly with a jigsaw, a circular cutting machine, or even a hacksaw. The key to achieving smooth surface at the cutting point is to use blades with big amount teeth. For example, when using a jigsaw, use a 30 teeth per inch (30 TPI) saw blade. The same goes for cutting machine– use a clean cutting blade with a large number of teeth. Of course, the best tool is a mini-circular saw from Dremel.
To protect against scratches, place masking tape on the plexiglass on both sides at the cut point and saw slowly. You can try using a knife to cut plastic, but it is likely that sheets of plexiglass with a thickness of more than 6 mm will not work for you.
Select several images that you would like to use for the LED mood lighting and resize them according to the cut out squares of plexiglass. If you are a good artist, you can draw something by hand. A PDF file was created for this article in Photoshop, which you can download above.
Print them out on sticker paper (preferably vinyl) and cut them out. 
Remove them from the adhesive backing and stick them onto the plexiglass squares. 
Don't shoot protective covering from masking tape on the opposite surface until you are completely finished. This will minimize scratches. 
Using sharp knife(for example, for modeling) cut out all the black areas from the applied sticker. For this article, images with outlines were used. Of course, if you have a laser cutting machine for cutting plastic, you won't need a knife. 
Using a Dremel, etch all the surfaces where you cut the decal from with a knife. If you don't have a tool, scratch the surface frequently with a knife, this method will also work. You can even treat plexiglass sandblaster, if you have one. 
The deeper the image is engraved, the better it will be visible when backlit. 
Peel off the pasted paper and appreciate your creations. If necessary, you can take a step back and adjust the images in places where your attention has waned. 
Clean the end surfaces of the squares until white and you'll get a nice outline around your image when the LEDs light up.
It doesn’t matter which crossbar, short or longer, will be on top, in the example the short one is placed at the bottom. The wood should be painted to give it a nice look. 
Drive two nails into the sides of each hole. They will be used to wrap the wires so that they have a neat and tidy appearance. 
Screw the nut all the way onto the eye bolt and place one of the washers on it. Place the bolt in the hole in the center wooden bracket so that the eye is on the same side as the driven nails (this direction will be “top”). Place a second washer on the other side of the bolt, then screw on the nut, then tighten it. The pictures show that a wing nut was used for convenience. 
Pass the wires of one of the LEDs through the hole in the bracket (from its bottom surface). 
Determine the desired length of wires and cut off the excess from the opposite side of the hole. 
Strip both wires a short length and wrap them around studs. This will secure them in place.
Do this operation with the remaining LEDs, making sure that all the “pluses” are on one side and the “cons” on the other. Make the free ends of the wire of different lengths. Take the bracket and evaluate how harmoniously the colors of the LEDs and the length of the wires combine. 
After the LEDs are at the required distance from the bracket and all the wires are twisted, you need to connect all the “pluses” and all the “cons” into the circuit using the same twisting method. 
When finished, connect the battery and make sure everything is connected correctly and all LEDs are lit. Twisting the bare wires onto the nails makes good electrical contact so you don't have to solder everything before testing. 
Once you see that everything works, take a soldering iron and solder everything. Remember that nails are great heat absorbers, so be patient and let the soldering iron do the work. This will require a little more solder, but they will solder well. Here, unlike LEDs, you don't have to worry about overheating.
The battery compartment used has two holes for attaching it. Fastening was carried out using screws. The wood used was soft enough that pre-drilling small holes was not necessary. If using hardwood, these holes may need to be drilled to prevent the screws from splitting the wood. 
Place the battery compartment on top of the bracket and screw it in place. Solder the red wire to any of the “positive” connections, and the black wire to any of the “negative” connections. Insert the batteries and make sure everything continues to work.
You may have noticed that a toggle switch was not used in this project. With similar, open battery compartment just remove or insert one of the batteries to turn it off or on LED backlight.
You would think that acrylic glue would work in in this case better than the rest, but that's not true. Use superglue. 
Fill the holes in the plexiglass medallions halfway with glue. 
Insert the LED into the hole and twist it slightly to ensure a secure grip. Carefully! If glue gets on plexiglass, it will leave marks on its smooth surface.
Take your time! Make sure that enough time has passed for a secure bond. Let the medallions sit. Give them an hour or so before attempting to handle them. 
In this case, you can connect them and get an idea of what everything will look like in the end.
Now you can hang decorative lighting and enjoy light lighting in the children's room. 
Attention! Do not hang the structure above the child; place it in a corner or nearby, but not above the headboard. The quality of your workmanship cannot guarantee the safety of the baby. However, a DIY decorative
Hi all! In this tutorial I'm going to show you how I made an amazing color LED lamp made of acrylic glass and wood. It is very modern and original design, which will fit perfectly into your bedroom or into an expensive office.
You can also watch the full video at the end of the article where you can find more detailed information about how I made this lamp.
So let's get started!
Materials you will need:
- Wooden blocks - buy from a local store or sawmill.
- Acrylic glass can be purchased at your local hardware store.
- RGB LED Strip Light with controller - .
- Epoxy resin.
Tools:
- Dremel high efficiency rotary.
- Cordless drill.
- Soldering iron.
- Stripper.
- Jigsaw.
- Metal ruler.
- Scissors.
Cutting wood and acrylic glass to size
For this project I decided to use solid wood. I had a small piece, 20mm thick, in my workshop that is perfect for this purpose.
The acrylic I used was 5mm thick and I think it's perfect combination with a tree.
The base of the lamp is 16 by 9 cm.
The top figure, placed vertically on an acrylic base, measures 28 by 14 cm
My experience cutting acrylic has shown me that if you move the cross slide slowly, the acrylic will melt, so you need to move it faster to get clean cuts.
Design drawing of the upper part of the LED lamp
Now I need to design the top of this lamp. I want to make a modern and clean design, which will match my room.
I outlined it with a pencil and cut out the shape using scissors.
Then I drew some lines using a ruler. The pattern consists of strips of the same width but different lengths.
I then made all the cuts and transferred the design onto acrylic.
Engraving the picture
Now it's time to use the engraving tool.
The flexible shaft engraver is great choice for this matter.
To make perfectly straight lines I used a metal ruler. I use an engraver to engrave the design onto the glass.
Next, I cut off the unnecessary parts with a jigsaw.
Drilling holes in the middle part of the wood for LEDs
Now I can move on to the base of the lamp.
Mark the middle of the wooden block.
I attached a 35mm hole drill to the drill and drilled a hole for the LEDs.
Don't damage your table when drilling - support it with a piece of wood.
Making a groove on the top of the base
For the engraved acrylic piece, I need to make a groove on the top of the light base. I drew an outline with an acrylic pencil, placing it vertically in the middle.
The best way to make a groove is to drill as much as possible more holes inside the outline, and then remove the excess with a file.
I will put LEDs directly under the acrylic, but I need to do something for them more space. So, the groove turned out to be 10 mm wide and 4 mm deep.
Making a hole in the bottom of the base for the controller
The controller will be placed at the bottom of the base. It's quite large, but I didn't have a smaller one, which means I need to find a way to fit it into the bottom of the tree.
I only use hot glue to secure it.
To make a square window for the controller, I drilled a hole 12 mm in diameter, and then inserted a jigsaw into the hole. I cut out the window and trimmed it with a file.
Another thing I need to do is drill 2 holes on the back bottom. These will be the holes for the adapter and the infrared receiver. Since I have a controller with a remote control.
LED Strip Light
I used a colored RGB LED strip. A length of 50 cm is quite enough, so I took scissors and carefully cut along the marked line, between the copper contact pads.
Before putting all the pieces together, I removed the protective film from the acrylic.
LED lamp assembly
I started the assembly by gluing the LEDs into the groove.
Then I moved on to other items and glued them with epoxy resin.
Epoxy-based glue glues acrylic glass to wood well, so I recommend that you use it.
After all the manipulations, we clamp the base with a clamp and wait for the entire structure to dry.
Sanding and painting the base
Temporarily I placed the LEDs inside the base and covered them masking tape so that dust does not get in.
Next, we go through fine-grained sanding paper.
The surface is ready to be painted, so I apply a clear varnish (shellac) to highlight the beauty of the beech wood. This is the most enjoyable part of the whole project.
Installing the controller
Everything works correctly so I can stick the controller on with hot glue.
Now I can enjoy the beauty of this beautiful design. This lamp is very simple and at the same time very modern.
It was a very interesting and exciting process of creating a lamp. I hope this one detailed instructions will allow you to make your own lamp with your own hands. In continuation of all that has been said, I recommend watching the video instructions for making and testing the lamp.
Plexiglas for edge lighting - beautiful and practical solution for home, apartment, office. Light spreads and refracts evenly through the canvas. Thus, a cozy atmosphere is created in the room. The drawing on the wall looks organic, not only performing a decorative function, but also illuminating the space at any time of the day.
Why do you need backlighting?
In the interior, edge lighting is used for several reasons. Firstly, it looks unusual, creating a diffused light flux. Secondly, this solution is practical: it is possible to organize high-quality lighting that consumes a minimum of electricity. And the final argument is the combination of aesthetics and functionality.
Edge lighting can provide a pleasant atmosphere in the home
Canvas lighting is used in tandem with the following designs:
- ceiling panels;
- false windows or framelights;
- kitchen apron panels;
- shelves;
- handrails of stairs, etc.
In fact, you can turn any idea into reality.
Video: “Profile for edge lighting”
From this video you will learn how to make a profile for end lighting.
Features of false windows
The design of end lighting in combination with a false window is popular today. Framelight is a panel where a poster with an illustration is placed. Any landscape, photo or painting becomes the new kind. Besides decorative function, a unique panel creates additional lighting.
The design is delivered ready-made; the user needs to insert a poster with an image. Often, an imitation of the view from a window, different landscapes, or photos are used as a picture.
The poster can be easily replaced at any time. Summer Street easily change to an autumn park or winter forest. Framelights are easy to use, as they are equipped with a click profile. Due to this, the upper part snaps off and the protective module is removed. A variant with a “Magnetic” design is also used. His system uses magnets to secure the canvas.
Using a false window, you can imitate any view from the window that you want Step-by-step instruction
Designing glass for edge lighting is within the capabilities of any homeowner. About the features of the process in order:
- We cut out a light panel of the required size and shape from plexiglass. To do this, we use a hacksaw, jigsaw, etc.
- We process the edges and make a recess at the end for the LED components.
- We apply the design to self-adhesive paper and glue it to the canvas.
- Using a scalpel, cut out the outline.
- Using an electric drill, we engrave the glass along the marked line.
Now you need to assemble the circuit. We take the LEDs and solder them to their positive terminals via a resistor. We insulate the contacts with heat shrink. Using acrylic glue, we attach the LEDs to the end holes of the canvas. To check the serviceability of the system, we connect the pluses and minuses along the wires and attach them to the battery holder.
The result is an excellent night lamp, assembled yourself.
You can do beautiful lamp made of plexiglass, if you follow the instructions Materials and tools
Have you decided to make your own edge lighting? Make sure you have everything you need at hand:
- acrylic canvas;
- aluminum profile;
- LED Strip Light;
- small 12V power supply.
If the panel should be located in a room with high humidity, you need a special tape. Are you considering a false window as an auxiliary light source? Then you will need an LED strip with increased performance.
The tools usually used are a hacksaw, electric jigsaw, drill, fastening components, etc.
To operate the plexiglass lamp you will need a 12V power supply. Acrylic preparation
It is important to ensure uniform illumination of the panel. We need acrylic High Quality. A balanced, rich glow is guaranteed by diffuse components. They appear in acrylic sheets during its special preparation. It is impossible to perform such processing at home, so you need to purchase a ready-made canvas that meets all the parameters. The thickness of the plexiglass is determined taking into account the dimensions of the light panel.
The ends in acrylic fabric must be polished. In the piece where there are no LED components, we apply reflective material. During production, acrylic is coated protective film. It prevents damage to the canvas and redistribution of light. Remove the film before installing the structure in the profile.
Profile assembly
Components at your disposal aluminum profile. We cut them into the right sizes at an angle of 45°. Then we connect the parts using the corners. Three sides are ready, now we install LED components throughout the entire interior. We connect the wires in advance to ensure contact with the power supply. The 12V adapter is capable of providing energy to a tape up to 5 m long. We screw at least 4 fasteners to the top of the profile for further installation on the wall.
Aluminum profiles for false windows must be mounted at an angle of 95° Working with the light panel
Three sides of the profile are assembled and the LED components are secured, we begin the installation of the light panel. We need a reflector - a sheet that reflects light. Let's add it to your profile. We also add an acrylic sheet, a film with an image, and a protective coating to the design. We install the canvas above the LED components. This promotes good light scattering. At the end we attach the last side of the profile.
An important nuance: the poster must be printed on backlit film - this way good light transmission is achieved. To make the structure more rigid, a backdrop of sufficient thickness is inserted into it.
Wall mounting
The light panel is ready, now you need to secure it. Hooks are mounted to the wall using dowels. All that remains is to hang the false window and connect the power supply.
Applying simple technologies, you will be able to arrange it on your own modern design in any room. Acrylic edge lighting will create a cozy atmosphere and, if necessary, perform a practical function.
It seems that no matter the number of lamps and fixtures in the room, the corners on the ceiling always remain dark. This fact never gave me peace of mind during renovations in one of the rooms. After a quick study of pictures on the Internet, I realized that what I liked most was the designer corner lamp by Peter Bristol ( Peter Bristol). It was made for Established & Sons and cost a whopping $900!
After searching a little more, I found attempts to make a similar lamp myself, but the information was incomplete, without any instructions.
I decided to take matters into my own hands and make my own corner lamp.
This lamp consists of 3 main components: triangular frame from plywood, an inexpensive lamp with a cord and a piece of transparent acrylic (plexiglass). This lamp is easy to make, although it will require some skill. You will need hand power tools, and if you have table saw, then this will simplify everything much.
Ready? Let's do it!
Step 1: Drawing a Triangle
Need to be drawn on a piece of plywood equilateral triangle. As you can see in the photo, I used a digital protractor, but this can be done using a regular protractor (each angle should be 60°).
The size of the triangle should be large enough to accommodate the lamp and base.
Each side of my triangle is 61cm.
After I drew the triangles, I drew another one with an indent of 2 cm (inner contour).
Step 2: Cut out the outer edge
Using the outer outline as a guide, cut out a triangle from the plywood. I made 45° cuts using a table saw circular saw. You can do the same thing using hand power tools, although it will take more time and the quality of the cut will suffer, you will have to finish it with a file.
Step 3: Cut with a jigsaw
At this point you need to remove the inner section of the triangle.
Use a large diameter drill bit to make entry holes for the jigsaw. I drilled holes near each corner.
Use one of drilled holes to start cutting. Saw as close to the pencil line as possible until you reach the next hole. Then repeat the same for the other 2 sides of the triangle.
Step 4: Removing Internal Corners
Step 5: Mounting Holes
To fix the frame of the corner lamp on the wall, you need to prepare the mounting holes.
I found some long screws and selected a drill bit that matched their diameter. I secured the frame with the beveled side down, as it would be on the wall, and drilled holes (from the outside).
I made a countersink so that the screw heads would be hidden in the frame during installation.
Step 6: Clear Acrylic
A piece of clear acrylic was used to hide the light bulb and diffuse the light. You may ask why I didn't use milk acrylic? The fact is that its surface will be glossy and it will not be “too” transparent, but this is a matter of taste.
We cut out a triangle from acrylic so that it extends 10-15mm onto the frame on all sides.
The plexiglass that you find will most likely be in protective film, it must be removed. Don't be afraid to scratch the acrylic. In the next step it will become clear why.
Step 7: Sanding the Acrylic
In order to diffuse the light, transparent acrylic must be made matte. I used a sander with sandpaper No. 120 (can be sanded by hand). I evenly processed the plexiglass on both sides.
The final treatment was done with 180 grit sandpaper.
Step 8: Attaching the Magnets
To secure the plexiglass to wooden frame and make it removable, because sometimes you need to change the lamp, I used neodymium magnets (they are much stronger than usual) measuring 5mmx1.5mm.
Place the acrylic on the frame as it needs to be placed. Make small corner marks on the frame, along the side of the acrylic.
After that do NOT through hole in acrylic to prepare a cradle for the magnet. The diameter of the hole is slightly larger than the diameter of the magnet.
Using instant glue or epoxy resin, glue the magnets into place on the acrylic.
Step 9: Mate
To give the magnets something to grab onto, I installed metal flat head screws.
To do this, I placed our piece of acrylic on the frame and marked where the magnets would be installed on the frame. To ensure that the plexiglass fits tightly to the frame, I made holes so that the screw head will be hidden in the frame.
Tighten the screws carefully, as the frame of the lamp is quite delicate.
Step 10: Electrical
Before mounting the light on the wall, prepare a cavity for the power cord at the back of the frame. I used a cable with a decorative fabric braid. I thought it was pretty cute and was cheap at the local store.
Mark where the cord will be located, then carefully cut out the cavity with any tool convenient to you.
Step 11: Attaching the Frame to the Wall
Position the frame so that all sides fit snugly against the walls. The design of the lamp is such that it fits into the corner only in a certain way, so you won’t mix anything up.
The lamp socket also needs to be attached to the wall as it will support the weight of the cord. Since we have a small enclosed space in the corner on the ceiling, it is preferable to use LED lamp, not an incandescent lamp.
Step 12: Enjoy!
With the help of magnets, the acrylic will almost fall into place on its own.
When you turn on the lamp, the corners will light up beautifully!
P.S. I made two of these lamps, one with a red cord and the other with a white one. I thought that white would stand out less against the background of the wall. In the end, I liked the way the red cord stood out on the wall.
A backlit plexiglass table is an area where you can use your imagination in an unprecedented way. There are many interesting technical and design moves, using which you will create a real futuristic masterpiece.
But we will start with a description of the basics. The main idea of a plexiglass table is that we lay an LED strip along its perimeter, the light from which passes through the thickness of the glass, lingering only in those places where there are any irregularities in the surface, such as roughness. And these irregularities begin to glow!
It is this property that we will use, purposefully cutting out all kinds of designs on the surface of the org. glass
The first thing we need is a frame into which the glass is inserted. We will lay and secure a ribbon on one side of the frame.
Then we install glass on top. In schematic form it will look like this. As soon as the light from the tape hits its end part, the inscription will begin to glow.
Now we add lighting from the bottom of the table and get a rather interesting result.
Interesting pictures and patterns on the surface can be a good addition. You can also put printed posters under glass - it will look very interesting. A particularly powerful move would be to make these posters lightboxes so that they glow in the dark. An example of a lightbox is shown below.
An idea that has been gaining particular popularity lately is the use of a volumetric mirror effect. It occurs when an LED strip hidden in the frame of a mirror, reflected repeatedly from it, creates the illusion of an endless abyss.
