» Shrubs

Autumn pruning fruit trees and bushes must be carried out annually. If this is not done, it will lead to thickening of the crown. Pests and diseases accumulate in the thickened crown, which causes a decrease or even loss of the entire yield.

If a tree has not been pruned for several years, it may be necessary to remove many branches. But it is not advisable to do this at once. It is better to prune such trees over several years.

When pruning fruit trees, it is very easy to harm the plant, especially when pruning young trees. That's why When starting pruning, you need to clearly understand which branch and why it needs to be removed.

Consequences improper pruning young trees are very difficult to correct, sometimes it even becomes impossible.

When pruning fruit trees, you must adhere to the following basic rules:

1. In one cut you cannot remove a large number of large branches at once. This can significantly weaken the tree and even cause disease or death in the future.
2. Branches with signs of disease, broken or dry ones are always removed first.
3. After removing large branches tree wounds must be covered with garden varnish.
4. Always try to use a sharp and high-quality tool, with a blunt instrument, you can cause lacerations, which will take a long time to heal.
5. Try use only clean tool , firstly, it is easier for them to work, and secondly, a dirty tool can harm the plant.
6. When trimming tall treestry to use ladders and stepladders. Or a special tool designed for cutting branches at height. Climbing tree branches is not recommended; this action can cause serious harm to the tree.

Methods for pruning shrubs and trees

There are two main ways to trim shrubs and fruit trees:

1. Shortening;
2. Thinning.

Both pruning methods are carried out with the aim of redistributing nutrients along the branches of the tree.

There are two methods of pruning - shortening and thinning

Pruning stimulates and intensively grows shoots and has a beneficial effect on the correct formation of the plant. Pruning leads to a reduction in the number of buds that consume food, the path from the root system to the leaves of the plant is shortened, which stimulates increased growth.

Shortening - This is the partial removal of the upper part of the shoot. Shortening stimulates the growth of young shoots and the development of buds located below the cut, and also helps to increase the thickness of the branches.

Thinning - This is a complete removal of branches. This pruning prevents the crown from thickening, prevents the development of diseases and pests, and therefore increases productivity.

Pruning ornamental and berry bushes

The very first pruning of shrubs is carried out during planting. In young 2-3 year old seedlings, shoots are shortened to 10 - 15 cm, no more than 3-5 buds are left on one shoot.

With proper care, young shoots will grow from these buds in the first year.

Pruning shrubs in the fall, all diseased, broken or dry ones, as well as shoots that are close to the ground must be removed. If in the first year of development the berry bush developed poorly and gave little growth, then all shoots must be cut off almost to ground level, leaving only 3-5 cm above the surface.

In the second year of life, the shrub should form several more new powerful shoots. In the second year of life, the shrub should grow several more young powerful branches. In the fall, the shrub is also sanitized with the removal of diseased, broken or dry branches.

When removing shoots, pruning is done as close to the base as possible.

In the spring, you need to once again pay attention to the condition of the bush and, if necessary, carry out another sanitary cutting.

Please note that spring pruning of shrubs is done before sap flows and buds begin to swell.

In the fall, spend it again sanitary pruning shrub, also cut off excess branches. On average, an adult and well-developed bush should have from 10 to 15 branches of different ages.

When pruning shrubs in the future, it is necessary to remember that branches grow most intensively in the first year of life, and then the growth rate decreases greatly. And by the age of five or six, the growth of branches practically stops.

In shrubs with abundant branching shoots are trimmed a little. In bushes with medium branching branches are cut at 25% of the length, and with weaker branches, about half of the shoot is cut off.

The formation of the shrub must be completed 4–5 years after planting.

A healthy bush, as a rule, should have the following ratio of shoots:

• 4 - 5 annual branches
• 3 - 4 two-year-old branches
• 2 - 3 three-year branches
• 2 - 3 four- and five-year-old branches.

Shoots of shrubs are removed depending on their physiological state, direction and strength of growth. And this ratio may change.

Never forget about updating and rejuvenating the bush - your future harvest will depend on this work.

How to trim a hedge yourself?

What it will look like hedge further, depends on correct formation in the first year, after her disembarkation. Therefore, the correct formation of a hedge should begin soon after planting.

Many amateur gardeners do not cut out young shrubs for the first few years, but this is wrong. To prevent the plant from growing upward, proper pruning must be done in the first year of life.. This will stimulate a good education new root growths. If this is not done, the lower part of the fence may be exposed, and the top will be thickened.

Many plants that are used for hedges, such as hawthorn, snowberry, privet, comb and mirabelle, are erect. Therefore, they especially require good pruning soon after planting.

Soon after planting, prune all plants., leaving shoots no more than 15 cm above the ground. This will stimulate the growth of powerful young root shoots.

On next year, it is necessary to carry out another severe pruning of the plant. This will ensure the correct formation of a dense crown. If the density of the bushes seems insufficient to you, you can do heavy pruning again next year.

Third and further years When the formation of strong root growth is completed, only cosmetic decorative pruning of plants is necessary. The interval between pruning depends on the type of plant and slightly on weather conditions.

How to prune a fruit tree yourself?

Self-pruning of trees must begin with the removal of dry, diseased, and old branches. It is these branches that reduce the yield of garden trees.

In order not to accidentally cause unnecessary injury to the fruit tree, you must immediately inspect the branches and decide on the number of branches that need to be removed. It is better to cut off one large branch than to cut off several small ones.. When pruning branches, it is not recommended to leave stumps on the trunk, but to remove the entire branch down to the base near the trunk.

When planning to prune a fruit tree in the fall, you should first prepare the tool. Make sure your hacksaw, secateurs or scissors are sharp. The level of injury caused to the plant depends on their severity. The better it will be sharpened garden tools, the less damage will be caused to the tree trunk. A sharp tool will do its job much better.

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Even old trees, with proper care, can produce tasty and high-quality fruits. To do this you should remove unnecessary branches and form the tree crown into a bush. In this case, it is necessary to leave only the strongest and youngest branches.

Proper pruning of fruit trees and shrubs is the key good harvest . You just have to master all the intricacies of gardening once and then apply and improve your skills in practice.

With the onset of autumn, life in the garden does not freeze, but begins to slowly fade away, and before the snow falls, gardeners have a lot of work: after harvesting, they need to prepare the plants for wintering and for the beginning of the next growing season, since it is in the fall that the success of next year’s harvest is laid. The easier the garden endures winter, the more grateful it will respond to your care for it. We have already written about how to prepare your garden for winter. In this article we will talk about autumn pruning of fruit bushes on the eve of winter.

Pruning fruit bushes

Berry bushes form the basis of the garden and are a source of vitamins and other useful substances for human body. Growing fruit bushes is not extremely difficult, but it requires time, effort and special knowledge.

One of the most important points of care is the pruning of fruit bushes, which should be carried out at a time determined by the agricultural technology of the species, since proper pruning has a positive effect on the health, lifespan and productivity of the crop, while untimely or incorrectly carried out pruning can cause serious damage to plants, and in some cases cases and irreparable harm. Autumn pruning Inspection of the main fruit bushes is carried out almost annually, and it is usually started when the bush enters a dormant period.

Each type of fruit bush has its own timing - some require pruning in September, others require pruning in October or November, and the methods of this procedure are not for everyone fruit crops are the same, but there are recommendations common to all shrubs:

• autumn pruning is done in areas where there are no severe and long frosts, otherwise the bark at the site of the wound may freeze out with the onset of winter, which can lead to the death of the bush;
• You cannot trim plants at temperatures below -10 ºC, because at such a low temperature the wood becomes too fragile, the cut tissue becomes loose, and the tools severely injure the branches;
• do not rush to prune the shrubs planted this year: it is quite possible that you made a mistake with the planting location and will want to move the bush to another part of the garden in the spring - in the new place you will begin to form the crown of the bush;
• autumn pruning is mostly applied to mature bushes and trees;
• be sure to treat cuts of thick branches (from 8 mm in diameter and more) with garden varnish;
• as pruning tools garden shrubs sharply sharpened tools are used - garden saws and pruning shears. Sometimes you have to work with an axe. A ladder may be needed.

Which shoots to prune depends on how many years a particular type of branch bears fruit. For example, black currant branches bear fruit for 5 years, therefore, branches older than five years must be removed, since they will no longer bear fruit, but will only begin to take away strength and nutrition from younger shoots that are promising in terms of fruiting. There are two methods of pruning: thinning, when the branches are cut off at the very base, and shortening - pruning only the upper part of the shoot. Best time pruning – a period of rest when sap flow has stopped.

Trimming berry bushes in autumn

The cut cannot be left

Pruning bushes in autumn- the most important agrotechnical event in autumn garden, in addition, aboutpruning berry bushes in autumn- one of the most important gardening techniques.

Obtaining high and sustainable yields of berry bushes largely depends on systematic pruning of the bushes. The main objectives of pruning are to form bushes, improve fruiting and improve lighting conditions for all parts of the bush. It is known that the bush can grow without pruning, but the result will be much worse, since it forms more slowly and the berries become smaller.

Pruning bushes (pruning berry bushes in the fall) is a rather labor-intensive operation, and if there are a lot of bushes (more than 10), then pruning will take more than one day. Bushes are pruned as in early spring, before the buds open, and in the fall, after the leaves fall.

The main problem for a gardener when pruning shrubs on his own garden plot- fear of cutting off excess, which means getting a smaller harvest. The effect of such “trimming to a minimum” will be corresponding- minimal. In order for pruning to give results, you need to “cut without sparing.”

Last spring I had to cut down a bush at the root black currant because he was infected kidney mite, gave small berries, and it was barely possible to collect a handful of berries from the entire bush. It was, of course, a pity to cut the bush at the root. But over the summer, at least eight new strong shoots more than a meter high have grown, the bush has become lush, strong, renewed, and this summer I expect a corresponding harvest from it.

The most an important part near the bushes- underground, therefore, no matter how many branches are cut, new shoots will quickly appear from dormant buds on the root collar of the bush.

According to N.P. Krenke, who formulated the theory of cyclic aging and rejuvenation of plants, new plant organs slow down the rate of aging of the entire plant. At the same time, aging of the plant is inevitable, but thanks to periodic rejuvenation, the life of the plant can be significantly extended.

It is very important to cut out old branches at soil level, without leaving stumps, as pests can settle in them. All cut branches are burned because they can be sources of pests and diseases.

To trim branches you will need pruning shears, and for larger and thicker branches- saw. It is better to treat large cuts with garden varnish.

It is difficult to give precise recommendations for pruning a bush, because each bush requires an individual approach. In addition, different berry bushes have their own specific pruning requirements. Therefore, it is very important when starting pruning to clearly understand what needs to be cut and why, and what to leave.

Raspberries

Pruning raspberries is simple and involves biological feature. As you know, raspberries have biennial shoots. In the first year these shoots grow, in the second they bear fruit and die. As a rule, shoots that bear fruit in the second year are cut out near the ground or even in the ground. At the same time, all excess and weak shoots are removed from the bush. This cutting can be done in the spring, but it is more favorable for shrubs- in the fall.

After planting raspberries in the second year, 2-3 shoots are left on the bushes for fruiting. In subsequent years, the number of shoots is increased and the number of shoots in adult bushes is increased to 10-12, and the rest are cut out.

In early spring, the shoots left in the bush in the fall are slightly shortened. The cut is made not in an arbitrary location of the shoot, but directly above the bud. Raspberry shoots bear fruit best in the middle part, so pinch off the tops. Shoots with pinched tops develop lateral branches, which will result in stronger fruiting and better and larger berries.

In particular favorable conditions When grown, annual shoots reach a height of 2.8-3 m. In this case, after shortening, they should have a length of 2.2-2.5 m. Under less favorable cultivation conditions, the length of the shoots is 1.2-1.5 m. Such shoots are shortened , cutting off the top 10-15 cm long.

A feature of remontant raspberries is the one-year development cycle of the above-ground part, so in the fall or in some cases in the spring, the above-ground part is cut down to ground level.

As the raspberry bush ages, the formation of new shoots gradually decreases. Then there comes a moment when very few offspring are produced and the yield decreases sharply. It has been established that the productivity of old raspberry bushes can be restored by removing the old rhizome. Thus, the relationship between the above-ground and root systems of the plant is changed, resulting in increased growth.

Anti-aging pruning should be accompanied by the introduction of increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers. Rejuvenation of raspberry bushes should be carried out every 5-6 years. This allows you to significantly extend the age of the raspberry plantation.

Black currant

The blackcurrant bush is formed gradually over 4-5 years. A fully formed and fruit-bearing blackcurrant bush should have 3-4 branches at the age of 1-2-3-4-5 years. In total, the bush will have 15-20 branches of different ages.

The age of a branch is determined by the number of annual growths. To do this, the outer annual rings are found on the branch and the age of the branch is calculated from top to bottom.

The skeletal branches of black currant bear fruit well for 4-6 years, then the degree of fruiting decreases, so the old branches are cut out completely at the age of 5-6 years at the base of the bushes.

Trimming is done as follows. Of the young annual shoots, 6-8 of the strongest and correctly located shoots are left, and the rest are removed. Then pruned annually:

1) all stems over 4-5 years old (these stems are easy to distinguish from young ones by their almost black color);

2) all drooping stems lying on the ground;

3) stems going inside the bush and strongly intersecting;

4) all extra shoots coming from the root collar, as well as shoots with tops frozen over the winter;

5) all dry and diseased stems.

The branch should also be removed if the growth of annual growth is weakened (less than 15 cm).

The drying tops of aging shoots are cut off to some strong lateral branch in order to enhance the growth of the remaining part of the branch.

Young shoots left for replacement are shortened. by one third, to enhance branching.

It is necessary to ensure that branches of all ages remain on the bush, since the best fruiting usually occurs on branches 2-3 years old.

Red and white currants

The technique for pruning red and white currants is somewhat different, since the fruiting nature of these crops is specific. A large number of fruit buds are formed in the upper parts of the shoots, which then turn into bouquet branches, crowdedly located near the boundaries of annual growth. They are more durable than black currants,- live and bear fruit for up to 4 years.

Due to these characteristics of fruiting in currants, it is impossible to shorten annual basal and annual lateral shoots located in the upper parts of perennial branches.

Red and white currants produce their main crop on 2-5 year old branches. When forming a bush, 3-4 of the strongest annual shoots are left annually. All diseased, weak shoots that thicken the middle of the bush are cut out.

The skeletal branches of red and white currants bear fruit for 6-8 years. Branches that have not reached this age are removed only when they do not form growth and do not bear fruit, or to cause intensive growth of basal shoots. All old, non-fruiting branches are cut out completely at the very base of the bush.

Full formation of fruit-bearing red and white currant bushes ends at 5-8 years. A formed fruit-bearing bush of red and white currants should have 2-3 branches of different ages, and in total it is recommended to have 10-12 well-developed branches of different ages. It is necessary to ensure that the composition of the branches of different ages is maintained, otherwise the time will come when all the old ones will die at the same time and the bush will not be able to quickly recover.

Gooseberry

Bush formation and rejuvenation of gooseberries is done in almost the same way as currants. A fruit-bearing, formed bush should have 15-20 branches in approximately the same number by age group.

In the year of planting, the bush is pruned, leaving 2-3 buds on the shoot. By the end of the first year, the bush will have 5-6 or more annual shoots. In the spring, in the second year of planting, last year's shoots are shortened by one quarter to one third of their length.

Gooseberries bear fruit on shortened shoots 2-3 years old, located on last year's growths. Pruning fruiting branches 2-3 years old is not practiced.

Gooseberries also bear fruit on older branches, 4-7 years old, so when pruning, only branches older than 7 years old are removed. Annual gooseberry shoots cannot be shortened, as this reduces the yield.

Every year, dry, excess and shading shoots are cut out from gooseberry bushes, then old, non-fruit-bearing branches covered with lichens and weaker fruit-bearing ones. All shoots older than 7-8 years are cut out. If such annual cutting is not carried out, the bush will become completely barren. In addition, a neglected bush often suffers from powdery mildew and other diseases.

When pruning gooseberries, you will need thick gloves and clothing that you won’t mind getting torn by the thorns.

Neglected berry bushes and pruning berry bushes in autumn

Bushes left for a long time without pruning become very thick, form weak growth and are characterized by a high percentage of old branches. There are very few young strong branches in them.

To restore growth, severe thinning is necessary. Remove all dry, diseased and broken branches. Special attention You should pay attention to cutting out the outer hanging branches and the inner branches that thicken the bush. Annual branches are also removed, leaving only 3-4 to replace the old main branches.

If the bush does not have a sufficient number of young strong branches, it is necessary to take measures to cause the appearance of basal shoots. To do this, cut out 2-3 old branches at the base.

The main purpose of pruning neglected bushes- cause the formation of new strong growths to gradually replace all old branches. Cutting out all the old branches in one year is impractical. They should be replaced within 2-3 years.

In addition, neglected bushes- These are sources of diseases and pests, especially dangerous if such bushes are located near new plantings. Pruning berry bushes in the fall and burning the branches will significantly reduce the risk of infection.

By combining correct and timely pruning of berry bushes in the fall with careful soil care, you can obtain stable and high yields for many years.

S. Zalmanova

***

Pruning trees and shrubs is an integral part of proper care for growing plants. Without this agrotechnical measure, the bushes will not have an attractive appearance, will lose their shape and will no longer be pleasing to the eye. Also, the lack of timely pruning leads to thickening of the crown. Therefore, pruning should be carried out regularly, taking into account the time of year, as well as the type of crop.

About the procedure methods

Pruning shrubs involves 2 methods:

1. Shortening branches. This method is used if there is a need to get rid of the upper part of the shoot. After this procedure, the diameter of the branches will increase, the shoots will begin to grow faster, and the development of buds will accelerate;
2. Shrub thinning. This involves pruning all branches so that the bushes do not become dense. After this procedure, the plant is not afraid of diseases and pests.

Carrying out these pruning methods has positive action per bush, because all the nutrients that the plant has begin to be redistributed along each branch. Spring pruning shrubs have a beneficial effect on the plant, and its shoots begin to develop more intensively, the branches grow stronger and gain healthy strength. After pruning, the number of buds decreases, and, consequently, the path of movement of nutrients from root to leaf becomes smaller, and crown growth increases significantly.

Shrub pruning

Types of shrub pruning (description, diagram)

Depending on what result is expected to be obtained after removing the shoots, gardeners choose a certain type of pruning. There are 3 types of trimmings:

• rejuvenating;
• formative;
• sanitary

Important! To ensure that the bushes are healthy and attract passers-by with their flowering, lush foliage and correct shape, it is recommended to carry out all of the listed types of pruning. It is necessary to use any specific type based on the time of year.

Rejuvenating

In order for mature shrubs to bloom lushly, they undergo rejuvenating pruning. Old branches are shortened, which activates the buds. The period of anti-aging pruning is practically unlimited. It can be produced from January to April, from August to September inclusive.

The branches are pruned 30% from the top after they bloom. For abundant flowering, old branches are removed. It is recommended to rejuvenate shrub plants once every couple of years.

Anti-aging pruning of branches

Sanitary

This type of pruning occurs in the fall and is required for all shrubs. The main purpose of this type of pruning is to protect shrub plants from various infectious diseases, preventing rotting of diseased or damaged areas of the bush. The process of this type of pruning involves removing all damaged or broken branches of the bush.

Important! For good ventilation, the crown is thinned out by cutting off immature branches growing inside the bush.

Formative

This type is used exclusively in autumn period. If for some reason pruning was not carried out in the fall, then when cutting the branches in the spring, their decorative appeal will be spoiled, because flowers grow on the shoots of the previous year. Formative pruning is to create ornamental plants from ordinary ones by adding shoots with accelerated growth force to the main branches. Weak branches growing from the root are removed.

Certain types of shrubs have fairly rapid growing root shoots, which makes the shrubs significantly increase in width. For this reason, it is recommended to get rid of shoots and most of the root growth around the entire perimeter.

Attention! You should be careful and careful when removing shoots, because... their excessive destruction leads to a deterioration in the condition of the crown of shrubs.

Indications for the use of radical rejuvenation

When shrubby plant no longer able to form strong and weak shoots, gardeners use radical rejuvenation. In this case, all branches are cut off at ground level. This will help activate the buds and shoot growth will appear again. After 1-2 years, you should start pruning weak and poorly growing branches.

Ornamental shrubs

Decorative pruning

IN landscape design Ornamental shrubs (cinquefoil, hibiscus, euonymus, derain) are often used. Beautiful view and lush flowering they decorate gardens, city streets, and parks. This type of plant requires constant and careful care. Pruning is carried out so that the bush maintains its shape, in accordance with the intended design.

Trimming in progress ornamental shrubs in the spring. The branches of young seedlings are shortened by 10-15 cm. Several buds are left, new shoots will grow from them.

The next year after pruning, the bush grows powerful branches. In the fall, it is advisable to carry out sanitary pruning of branches. It is necessary to cut off weak, unhealthy branches at the base of the plant. If in early spring it turns out that the bush needs pruning again, then it can be repeated. However, the pruning procedure must take place before the buds of the bush swell and the sap begins to flow.

Important! Branches can grow quickly only in the first year of their life, then the growth rate decreases, and after 6 years it stops. Therefore, it takes 3-4 years to create a decorative crown of a bush.

The ratio of shoots on a bush-type plant

The branches of shrubs are given 5-6 years to grow; after this period it is advisable to prune them. Therefore, it is important to know what ratio of shoots the shrub has by age. In order to determine the age of the branches, you can use the method of counting the internal rings that are observed in a cross section. The number of rings indicates how old the plant is. Typically, all shrubs have 4-5 one-year branches, two-year-old branches - 3-4, three-year-old, four-year-old and five-year-old branches - 2-3.

It is worth noting! It is necessary to remove shoots not only according to their age, but also according to their physiological state, appearance and direction of growth. Accordingly, the above ratio may change. However, changes in the number of branches and their age do not mean that the bush has an irregular shape.

How to trim a hedge

Hedge trimming

Leave the trim on late dates it is impossible, because the branches of the bush grow upward, which means that over time the lower part of the plant will be exposed, which is not aesthetically attractive. Therefore, the shoots are pruned in the first year, at a level of 15 cm above the ground. After this, strong root layers will begin to appear.

The following year the procedure is repeated, which will create a good crown. If it does not have a uniform density, it will need to be trimmed well again. After this, the growth of the crown will increase, it will come to the required form. After three years, the root growth will be fully formed. Shrub hedges will only require cosmetic pruning.

Shaped pruning of shrubs

To give the garden a special attractiveness, gardeners often began to use curly pruning. It gives the garden an exclusive and beautiful view. Before you begin this type of pruning, it is important to choose the right plant variety. Most preferable evergreen shrubs, such as boxwood, laurel, cypress, privet, conifers.

It is important to note! Pruning of curly bushes should be done annually. When landscaping the walls of a house, fence, or other buildings with ivy, pruning must be done several times a year. Each body type has certain cutting features.

spherical shape

To create such a figure, small trees are selected. To give the shrub a spherical shape, it is necessary to cut off the side shoots. You can use a template made of wire. It is placed against a bush, and the excess crown is cut off.

Cone cutting

The cone is one of the easiest shapes to trim. The haircut starts from the crown, from the very top to the bottom. To ensure that the figure is clearly proportional, special poles are used. A pyramid is built from them and the branches that extend beyond the figure are cut off. Barberry and juniper are best suited for a cone shape.

spiral tree

Conical shrubs are best suited for creating a spiral shape. You need to stick a pole near the bush and tie the bush to it. At the top of the pole, tie a ribbon and direct it to the ground, wrapping the plant in a spiral. Next, the shoots are cut to the trunk, according to the shape specified by the tape. When the bush acquires the required spiral shape, the tape is removed.

Spiral shapes

Gardening Tools

Important! For gentle and easy pruning, special tools must be used. The main tool for removing branches is a pruner.

This tool is divided into 2 types:

• With a curved blade. His job is to cut thick shoots evenly;
• With a straight blade. The blade of the tool rests on the end of the plant.

The secateurs are very effective in their work, however negative point in this tool is what to trim hard to reach places bush is impossible.

A garden saw is useful when it is necessary to rejuvenate bushes and remove branches more than 5 cm thick. The saw teeth are sharp and large enough (6-7 ml long), which makes it easy to cut down thick branches.

To carry out the work of pruning hard-to-reach shoots, gardeners use a lopper. This tool can easily cope with thick branches and is easy to work with in a lush crown.

To choose good tools, which will be effective assistants in the garden, pay attention to the following characteristics of the tool:

• it must be very sharp in order to cut the shoots smoothly;
• safe to use;
• convenient to use;
• the weight of the tool should be light, but capable of withstanding significant effort on the part of the gardener;
• It is advisable to choose a handle painted in bright color so that the tool can be easily found among the grass.

Important! Also, for trimming hedges, it is advisable to purchase garden shears, which cope with this task most effectively. When stripping and removing various problematic shoots, a garden knife will provide significant assistance.

Pruning fruit trees and berry bushes

Fruit bushes are pruned in the spring, before sap flow begins.

Not every berry grower needs annual pruning, because... some of them independently activate the formation of their crown; the berries on them grow on the shoots of the previous year; therefore, if they are cut off, there will be no harvest. Gardeners only need to periodically remove old branches.

Currant pruning

Young fruit trees(apple, pear) form every spring. From the time fruit trees are planted, gardeners begin to create a crown for uniform insolation. Pruning occurs by removing unnecessary branches and when fruiting begins, the fruits are ripe and the trees are already in the desired shape.

Plant nutrition

Important! After the pruning procedure is completed, the plants begin to urgently need nutrients. To do this, the bushes are fed with a solution that contains nitrogen and potassium.

When getting rid of branches in August and September, plants need phosphorus. This is due to the fact that in given time begins to form root system. Among experienced gardeners It is generally accepted that the most effective and useful top dressing is an infusion of compost.

Pruning berry and ornamental shrubs and fruit trees is a mandatory procedure in growing plants. This process must be approached carefully and carefully so as not to damage healthy and young shoots and to create a beautiful and lush crown. Therefore, among gardeners, a book written by Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, R.P. Kudryavets, became very popular and useful in pruning fruit trees and shrubs. It clearly presents all the information regarding the maintenance and care of plants.