Aerated concrete blocks are widely used in modern construction both in our country and abroad. Despite the fact that aerated concrete has good thermal insulation qualities, walls made of this material must be insulated (to reduce the cost of heating the house and increase the energy-saving performance of the entire building). Insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam is very effective and inexpensive way achieving this goal.
Selection of insulation material
Experts say that it is more expedient to insulate a structure made of aerated concrete from the outside than from the inside of the house: firstly, the usable area of the room is not lost; secondly, the “dew point” shifts beyond the aerated concrete blocks. To insulate aerated concrete buildings from the outside, the most various materials: mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene). Expanded polystyrene is the most popular due to its low thermal conductivity, durability and low cost. This material is fireproof due to the fact that it contains anti-foam. Also, the advantages of the material include ease of processing and installation: it is easy to cut into pieces the desired shape, and the slabs standard sizes(0.5 x 1, 1 x 1, 1 x 2 m) is convenient to attach to aerated concrete walls. The thickness of the material (from 20 to 100 mm) allows you to create a sufficient heat-insulating layer (if necessary, the panels can be folded in half). Also, to order, factories produce non-standard sheets of expanded polystyrene with a thickness of up to 500 mm. That is, for insulating aerated concrete with polystyrene foam there is big choice finished products.
Calculation of insulation thickness
To determine the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, you need to make a simple calculation. We take data for calculations from reference tables. SNiP standardizes the total required heat transfer resistance for walls (Ro) depending on the region (measured in m² °C/W). This value is the sum of the heat transfer resistance of the wall material (Rst) and the insulation layer (Rth): Ro = Rst + Rth. For example, we choose St. Petersburg (Ro=3.08).
Heat transfer resistance is calculated using the formula R= δ ⁄ λ, where δ is the thickness of the material (m), λ is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material (W/m °C). Let's say our house is built from aerated concrete blocks of the D500 brand, 300 mm thick (λ = 0.42 - we take it from the reference table). Then the wall’s own heat transfer resistance without thermal insulation will be Rst = 0.3/0.42 = 0.72, and the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer Rt = Ro-Rst = 3.08-0.72 = 2.36. As a thermal insulation material, we choose light polystyrene with a density of 10 kg/mᶟ (λ=0.044 W/m °C).
The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated using the formula δ=Rут λ. The thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene with a density of 10 kg/mᶟ is λ=0.044 W/m °C.
The thickness of the insulation is δ=2.36 0.044=0.104 m, that is, according to the rules and regulations, standard polystyrene slabs with a thickness of 10 cm are suitable for our house.
We check our calculations for the “dew point” temperature (formation of condensation in the wall):
The graphs show that the condensation zone (the area where the wall temperature lines coincide with the “dew point” temperature) is located in the heat-insulating layer and even at an outside air temperature of -30˚C does not reach the aerated concrete. Conclusion: our thermal insulation layer is calculated correctly, that is, even at the most low temperatures a wall made of aerated concrete will not become saturated with moisture.
Let's say you don't want to make any calculations, and you decide to just buy a material 5 cm thick. Let's see in what area the condensation zone will be located at this thickness and all other conditions being equal. For clarity, here is a graph:
We see that moisture is formed not only in the heat-insulating layer, but also in aerated concrete. The presence of water, the thermal conductivity of which is significantly higher (λ≈0.6) than that of aerated concrete and expanded polystyrene, leads to a decrease in the heat-saving characteristics of the walls of the structure, that is, the result is a “cold house”.
Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks
Despite the fact that the application polystyrene foam boards to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, it reduces its “breathing” properties; this material is widely used. The technology for arranging a thermal insulation layer is quite simple and can be easily done independently.
Preparing the walls
The surface of aerated concrete blocks is quite flat, so preparing the walls comes down to removing the buildup of adhesive mortar in the area of the interblock seams. Potholes (if any formed during the construction process) are filled with repair cement mortar. Then we cover the entire surface of the wall with an antiseptic solution (to prevent mold and mildew formation). After the antiseptic has dried, we prime the walls to improve adhesion when gluing polystyrene slabs to aerated concrete.
Installation of thermal insulation boards
We cover the walls of the building with sheets of expanded polystyrene using special adhesives. As glue, you can use ready-made dry mixtures (Ceresit CT 85, T-Avangard-K, Kreisel 210, Bergauf ISOFIX), liquid adhesives (Bitumast) or ready-made assembly adhesives in aerosol packaging (Tytan Styro 753, Ceresit ST 84 “Express”, Soudal Soudatherm, TechnoNIKOL 500). We apply glue to the slabs along the perimeter and additionally in several places on the surface.
Important! The adhesives should not contain solvents or other chemical components that can damage the surface of expanded polystyrene or disrupt the structure of the material.
Many adhesive compositions allow installation of slabs at ambient temperatures from -10˚С to +40˚С. However, experts in the field of house construction recommend carrying out thermal insulation work at a temperature not lower than +7˚С and in dry, windless weather.
First, glue the first bottom row along the entire perimeter of the building. foam boards, then fasten the remaining rows. We press the slabs with force against the wall surface and lay them in a checkerboard pattern. We check the correct installation with a level.
Important! In the corners of the structure, the panels are laid end-to-end, that is, in such a way that in one row the panel from the end of the building extends to the thickness of the sheet, and the panel located at an angle of 90 degrees rests against it. In the next row, the operation is performed in reverse order.
After the adhesive composition has completely dried (about 1 day), we additionally fasten each sheet using special dowels with large caps (“umbrellas”), which should not contain metal parts. The fact is that they rust and create additional cold bridges in the heat-insulating layer: that is, the dowel itself and the central nail must be plastic. Depending on the size, 5-6 dowels are needed for each sheet.
Using a puncher, we make a hole in the heat insulation layer and aerated concrete wall, then use a hammer to hammer in the dowel and insert the fixing nail.
After the installation of all fastening dowels is completed, we proceed to finishing the walls.
External finishing of polystyrene foam insulator
Since polystyrene foam has low strength and is susceptible to negative influence ultraviolet radiation, after its installation it is necessary to carry out finishing work.
First, on top of polystyrene foam using a special plaster mortar(or adhesive composition) we attach a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which prevents cracking of the plaster and improves adhesion. After complete drying, apply a layer of finishing decorative plaster. Such external finishing is quite sufficient to give the heat-insulating layer the necessary strength.
We insulate the floor with polystyrene foam
Insulation of a concrete floor with polystyrene foam is carried out in sheets with a density of 20-30 kg/mᶟ. We make flooring of polystyrene foam boards as follows:
- do a preliminary leveling fill (this is done if the difference in height of the base exceeds 5 mm), let it dry;
- prime the surface;
- We attach a damper tape along the entire perimeter of the room to the bottom of the walls;
- We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the screed (ordinary polyethylene is quite suitable: at the joints the material is overlapped - at least 10 cm, on the walls we add at least 20 cm; we fasten everything with construction tape);
- we lay polystyrene sheets on the floor according to the groove-tenon principle in a checkerboard pattern (the tenons must fit completely into the grooves);
- We lay a vapor barrier and reinforcing mesh on top of the thermal insulation layer;
- We make the screed of the required thickness.
On a note! This method of insulation is very effective, but the height of the room is reduced by 10-15 cm.
Floor insulation can be done not only using expanded polystyrene slabs, but also using expanded polystyrene concrete, making a screed out of it (since the thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene concrete is low - λ=0.05÷0.07 W/m °C). We prepare the solution for such filling ourselves by mixing the necessary ingredients: 20 kg of cement, 12.5 liters of water and 0.125 m³ of polystyrene foam granules, or we buy a ready-made dry mixture. After insulation with polystyrene concrete, we make a finishing screed (if necessary) and lay the floor covering.
Ceiling insulation
Polystyrene foam can be successfully used to insulate indoor ceilings. As a rule, thin sheets 5 cm thick are used for these purposes. Fastening the slabs to the ceiling is similar to laying them on external wall. The only difference is that you can use adhesives and plaster mixtures, which are intended for indoor use (they are cheaper than for outdoor use).
In custody
By correctly calculating the thickness of the thermal insulation layer made of polystyrene foam and following the technology of laying sheets and external finishing, you can build a warm and comfortable home for living in any region.
If you insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside, you can achieve a very good effect in terms of saving on heating the room. This is not a complicated and not too expensive process that will help you save good money on heating.
Gas silicate blocks: what are they?
Gas silicate blocks are one of the new building materials for the construction of walls. It is characterized by high heat and sound insulation, lightness and large dimensions. They also have a low price. But many companies inflate prices both for them and for their laying, so always find out prices from different sources, and, when hiring workers, prices for laying gas silicate blocks. These allow you to quickly erect energy-efficient buildings, but they are not highly durable.
Why insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside?
Many people ask the question: “Why insulate such a house if it will already be warm?” The goal is not only to increase heat conservation, but also to provide special protection for gas silicate blocks, which will significantly extend the life of your home.
Gas silicate blocks have low resistance to moisture. They absorb it and, when frozen, can form microcracks, which reduce their effectiveness and strength. On average, this material is designed for 200 freezing cycles. During a winter with unstable weather, more than 20 such cycles can occur, which means that the walls will last you about 10 years. Insulating the outside using materials that absorb moisture helps to avoid these very processes, which will significantly extend the life of the house.
How to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks from the outside?
Such buildings are best insulated in two layers. The first is an insulating material that can absorb moisture, and the second is an external one that can withstand atmospheric influences.
As an insulating material the best option is the use of isover. Isover is a modernized glass wool, which consists of organic fibers, which, in turn, are capable of releasing and absorbing moisture in significant quantities. Its peculiarity is that moisture is retained quite strongly, so that nearby surfaces remain almost dry.
Foreman's advice: some suggest using foam plastic as insulation. This option not bad, but not suitable for such buildings, since foam plastic does not absorb moisture, but, on the contrary, can lead to its accumulation, which will only speed up the process of destruction of the blocks..
The second layer can be a wide variety of materials, all of which are suitable for outdoor use. These can be plastic panels, wood or special plates made from complex polymers. The choice always remains with the consumer. It all depends on desire and financial abilities.
One common option is to use plastic panels. They have a relatively low cost and look beautiful. There are a large number of colors, which allows you to decorate the outside of the house to suit the taste of any person.
Foreman's advice: You can save money on external cladding, but in no case should you save on isover, because the effect of insulation and protection of your walls will depend on it.
The insulation process occurs as follows:
- Creating a frame outside the house - a frame is made to fix the insulation and plastic panels.
- Strengthening the insulation in the frame - it is fixed so that it fits snugly against the wall of the house and has no cracks or gaps. Thus, the ingress of moisture onto the wall is almost completely eliminated and the amount of condensation that forms on the walls during temperature changes is minimized.
- Sewing the frame with external material is carried out so that there are no holes or cracks, which provides additional protection and simply ensures a beautiful appearance.
Some materials for the top layer of insulation require additional finishing. Accordingly, you will need to select the type exterior finishing to complete.
How much can insulating your home save?
If a house made of gas silicate blocks is 20-25% more economical than conventional houses, then a house whose walls are insulated from the outside gives savings of up to 40%.
Such a house with insulation will help you reduce heating costs by almost 2 times, which is a pretty good indicator today.
How much does it cost to insulate a house like this?
The cost of insulating a house will depend on the choice of materials. When choosing materials, it is worth comparing materials based on their effectiveness in terms of thermal insulation, comparing prices in various stores and on the Internet, because the price from different suppliers can vary up to 20%.
No matter how much it costs you to insulate your home, it's peanuts compared to how much this home improvement can save you.
A house made of gas silicate blocks is considered one of the best in terms of thermal insulation. This is mainly due to the structure of the material, which is almost 90% air. The rest is a mixture of sand, cement, limestone and water using a certain technology. It is not always necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete due to the characteristics of the material, however, in the central zone of our country quite severe winter frosts prevail.
Houses made of gas silicate have quite high thermal insulation characteristics, therefore, it is recommended to additionally insulate them only in regions with severe frosts.
They do not allow you to do without insulation. This is a natural process. How to insulate a house from gas silicate from the outside will be discussed further.
Insulation materials
Insulating a house made of gas silicate blocks involves the use of a wide variety of materials. Most often, however, two types are used - mineral wool and polystyrene foam. It's worth talking about the advantages and disadvantages of both technologies in more detail.
When insulating a house made of gas silicate blocks with your own hands using polystyrene foam, do not forget about the ease of installation of this material. It can be mounted with ease, and a wide variety of tools can be used to cut it. Some people use regular construction knife, and some use a hacksaw.
It all depends on the desires and capabilities of the person. At the same time, foam plastic also has a lot of disadvantages that make this technology less in demand. The fact is that polystyrene foam has low air permeability. At the same time, the main material, namely gas silicate blocks, have a higher indicator of this characteristic.
Concerning mineral wool, then it is more acceptable as insulation for a house made of gas silicate blocks. It's simple perfect option, which has become widespread today. Mineral wool perfectly allows air to pass through and keeps it warm. This material is a little more difficult to install, but the characteristics of the walls will always be at their best.
There are other materials that are widely used for these same purposes, but they are used much less frequently than those discussed above.
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Tools and materials
So, now it’s worth talking about what you might need to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands. Here you will need to acquire the following:
- thermal insulation material, in in this case we will talk about mineral wool;
- dowels;
- glue;
- perforated corners;
- container for diluting glue;
- building level;
- fiberglass mesh;
- perforator;
- putty knife.
Basically, this should be enough to carry out the entire range of events.
Now you can proceed directly to insulating the house from gas silicate blocks. First you have to prepare carefully. The wall is cleaned of various dirt, dust, and all defects are eliminated. This is done to improve the adhesion of the mineral wool surface through the use of glue. If there are large defects on the wall, then they also need to be eliminated. This is done through plaster and primer. Only thorough surface preparation will allow all work to be carried out to the highest possible quality. At the level ground floor it is worth installing the frame.
It will serve as additional support for the insulation. Beacons should be placed at the corners of the house. Next comes the actual process of attaching the mineral wool to the wall. First you need to coat the surface itself and the cotton wool with glue. This will improve the properties of the materials to be fastened. During installation, it is imperative to avoid the formation of cross-shaped joints. Do not forget about additional fastening of the material. For these purposes, special dowels are used. They are umbrellas. They should be placed around the perimeter of the mineral wool slab, and they can also be additionally fastened in the center.
It is worth noting the fact that mineral wool itself is soft material, which should be further strengthened.
It is for these purposes that fiberglass mesh is used. Glue is first applied to the surface of the insulation, and then the fiberglass mesh itself is installed. Another layer of glue is additionally applied on top of the mesh.
After the process of reinforcing the insulation is completed, it is imperative to additionally insulate the corners of the building, door and window openings. This is done extremely simply. For these purposes, the same perforated corners that were purchased earlier are used.
Comments:
Insulating a house using gas silicate blocks is a reliable way to retain heat during the cold season. By itself, which includes gas silicate, it is an excellent heat insulator. However, due to high level moisture absorption of this material, as well as due to cold bridges that can form in places of masonry joints, walls made of aerated concrete need insulation and additional protection from moisture. Therefore, the question of how and how to insulate walls made of gas silicate is quite relevant today.
The need for work on insulation of private housing
It should be noted that load-bearing walls houses with a thickness of at least 30 cm, constructed from aerated concrete blocks with strength class D400, fully meet all standards in terms of thermal insulation. Therefore, they do not need to install an additional layer of insulating material.
However, in suburban one-story construction, gas silicate is very often used with a thickness of not 30 cm, but 20 cm with strength class D200. Walls made from such material have poor thermal insulation so they need additional insulation. External cladding plays an important role in the use of insulation. No matter how carefully the blocks are laid, without exterior decoration such a house will not have a beautiful appearance. Therefore, to make housing presentable, external finishing is used, which is best mounted on insulation in compliance with all standards for vapor and waterproofing.
From the above we can conclude that it is necessary to insulate walls made of gas silicate in the following cases:
- used during construction cellular concrete with a density below D500;
- wall thickness does not exceed 30 cm;
- the masonry joints turned out to be thick;
- The house is located in a region with harsh climatic conditions.
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Materials for insulating gas silicate outside
High-quality thermal insulation involves insulating walls made of gas silicate blocks both outside and inside the house. When choosing a thermal insulation material, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics:
- thermal conductivity - the ability of a substance to transfer heat (the lower the value of this indicator, the more heat will be stored inside the house);
- breathability - the ability of insulation to allow air to pass through;
- vapor permeability - the ability of a material to transmit water vapor contained in the air;
- moisture protection - due to its porous structure, gas silicate absorbs moisture well, so it needs additional protection from higher level humidity;
- fire resistance - the ability of insulation to withstand open fire;
- resistance to the negative influence of living organisms and chemical substances, which allows you to increase the service life of the insulation.
Most popular thermal insulation materials For external insulation walls made of gas silicate blocks are:
- mineral wool;
- expanded polystyrene;
- thermal panels.
Mineral wool has been used as insulation for a very long time. However, even with the excellent quality of its production and correct use This material begins to lose its thermal insulation characteristics after just a few years. This is due to the fact that mineral wool is not able to fully protect walls from moisture. As positive aspects mineral wool, it is worth noting its fire resistance, environmental safety and ease of installation work.
External insulation of a gas silicate house with polystyrene foam also has several negative points. This material has a low level environmental safety and poor vapor permeability, which can negatively affect not only gas silicate blocks, but also the microclimate in the house.
Thermal panels combine excellent thermal insulation characteristics and beautiful appearance, therefore, when using them, there is no need to additionally produce external finishing Houses. There is an opinion that it is better not to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks with thermal panels, as this does not allow the walls to breathe. However, you can get out of this situation very simply: create a ventilated façade using technological holes in the basement of the house and under the canopy.
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External insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks with mineral wool and expanded polystyrene
To insulate walls with mineral wool (expanded polystyrene) with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:
- electric drill with a set of drills;
- building level;
- comb spatula;
- hammer;
- mineral wool (expanded polystyrene) in the form of slabs;
- primer deep penetration;
- glue;
- dowels
Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are attached directly to gas silicate, so the first step is to thoroughly clean the walls of dust and debris, and then treat them with a deep penetration primer, which will improve the adhesion of the glue. Next, according to the instructions, the glue itself is prepared, after which it is applied to the insulation sheet in an even layer using a comb spatula.
The first row of slabs is installed and their horizontal evenness is checked using a building level. The next rows must be laid with a slight shift so that the seams of the slabs do not coincide. For more reliable fixation of the slabs, plastic dowels are used, which are installed at the joints of the slabs (2 pcs.) and in the middle of each element (1 pc.). After the glue has set, the insulation can be plastered, having previously applied a reinforcing mesh to it, and then painted with facade paint.
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Do-it-yourself external insulation of a house with thermal panels
Insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks along the facade: 1 - gas silicate block; 2 - horizontal sheathing – LVL timber 45*45mm; 3 - Ursa PureOne plate; 4 - vertical sheathing - LVL timber 45*45mm; 5 - hydro-windproof membrane; 6 - counter beam LVL 30*45mm.
Thermal panels allow not only to insulate walls made of gas silicate blocks, but also to reliably protect them from the negative effects of moisture and mechanical damage. This material is produced with finishing made of tiles, porcelain stoneware and natural stone.
Installation of thermal panels is carried out on a galvanized sheathing, which allows you to create between the insulation and building material ventilated space. First of all, an L-shaped starting strip is fixed at the bottom of the wall using a hammer drill and screws, the evenness of which is checked using a building level. Above the starting bar, hangers are attached into which the U-shaped profile bars are mounted. In this way, a frame is constructed over the entire finishing area.
Next, sheets of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene are laid between the profiles, after which thermal panels are attached to the vertical profiles using self-tapping screws. On last stage all works mounting clearances sealed with foam, and the seams between the panels with a grout mixture.
Gas silicate blocks, due to their efficiency and reasonable cost, have become one of the most popular materials for individual construction.
However, to ensure normal heat transfer resistance, the thickness of the aerated block wall is Middle lane Russia must be at least 500 mm, while in standard projects often the thickness is 400 and even 300 mm.
What should owners of such houses do to ensure comfortable temperature indoors and not go broke on insulation costs? Certainly, .
Another reason for the need for insulation is the formation of cold bridges when laying gas silicate blocks on cement-sand mortar. If the geometry of the stone is incorrect or unstable, the masonry is leveled by thickening the seam, which leads to a deterioration in the thermal insulation qualities of the wall and the microclimate inside the house, and increases heating costs.
For external insulation, mineral wool slabs or mats, polystyrene foam slabs, polyurethane foam in slabs or foam are most often offered. In order to do right choice, it's worth comparing specifications gas silicate and named insulation materials.
One of positive qualities gas silicate - vapor permeability, that is, the ability to let water vapor pass out. To maintain this property, it is necessary that the vapor permeability of the insulation be no less than that of masonry blocks. Let's compare vapor permeability in mg/m h Pa:
- gas silicate - 0.14 - 0.23;
- mineral wool slabs and mats - 0.3 - 0.6;
- polystyrene - 0.013 - 0.05;
- polyurethane foam - 0.0 - 0.05.
When comparing, we see that vapor permeability is higher than that of gas silicate, only for mineral wool. This does not mean that other heat insulators cannot be used to insulate aerated block walls - just in this case a system will be required forced ventilation, which means additional costs.
Two common methods of external thermal insulation
Builders most often offer one of two insulation methods: a plaster system, also called the “wet method,” and a ventilated facade, also known as a dry insulation method.
Wet facade
As follows:
- outer wall;
- insulation;
- adhesive mixture with embedded reinforcing alkali-resistant plastic mesh;
- facade finishing.
The method is good for self-execution, since it does not require the construction of a frame and high qualifications of the performer, however, such insulation can only be carried out at positive air temperatures.
Ventilated facade
A ventilated façade is considered more reliable among professionals and provides more opportunities for home decoration. The insulation scheme looks like this:
- outer wall;
- load-bearing frame;
- insulation;
- wind and moisture protective membrane;
- ventilated gap of at least 40 mm;
- curtain façade.
To perform thermal insulation using this method, you will need to build a frame with precise alignment façade surface, otherwise irregularities will be visible on the facade.
A ventilated façade provides more opportunities for exterior finishing; work can also be carried out when negative temperatures to minus 7°C, however, the performer is required to have skills in using construction tools.
Choosing a thermal insulation system, what is the best way to insulate gas silicate?
Both methods are suitable for insulating a house made of gas silicate blocks, with one small caveat: if the house is built from high-quality certified blocks.
In the case of using low-grade handicraft material with little mechanical strength the supporting frame will be impossible to fix on the wall: the gas silicate will simply crumble when screwing in the dowel screws.
Thermal insulation with mineral wool
For thermal insulation of gas silicate walls using the wet method, slabs with a density of at least 150 kg/m3 are used. To determine the thickness of the heat insulator, a thermal engineering calculation of the external enclosing structures is carried out. For the Moscow region, a wall 400 mm thick needs to be insulated with a layer of 80 mm mineral wool board.
Materials required for work:
- adhesive composition from dry building mixtures(SSS);
- a plinth with a shelf width equal to the thickness of the mineral wool slab layer around the perimeter of the house;
- insulation - basalt slabs;
- alkali-resistant across the façade area plus an additional layer to a height of 2 m;
- protective corner mesh or an additional amount of mesh for a width of 600 mm along the height of each wall corner;
- plastic corners to protect the internal corners of openings;
- plaster composition and vapor permeable acrylic paint For finishing;
- dowel-screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head (fungi) at the rate of 5–6 pcs./m2.
ATTENTION: The length of the dowel screws is selected based on the fixation into the masonry at 120 mm. The use of dowel-nails will lead to the destruction of gas silicate blocks.
Warming is carried out in several stages:
- Preparation of the base - the walls are cleaned of dust, dirt, oil or solvent stains, and excess mortar.
- Installing a base strip to support the bottom plate and protect the insulation from rodents. The plank is attached so that the shelf is 2 cm below the junction of the wall and the foundation.
- Apply on the back surface of the insulating board along the perimeter with an indentation of 1.5...2 cm from the edge and 2...3 marks in the center adhesive composition from SSS. The adhesive composition should not get on the end of the insulation - this forms a cold bridge. The slab is installed in place in the lower left corner of the facade. The operation is repeated over the entire surface of the walls, from bottom to top, placing vertical seams between the slabs at intervals of 300 mm.
- Glue strips of thermal insulation to the ends of the openings of windows and doors.
- A day later, the slabs are doweled, placing dowel screws in the corners and in the center of each slab, sinking the dowel head flush with the surface of the insulation. The overlaps of the slabs at the corners are cut off, the seams more than 3 mm wide between the slabs are filled with scraps of insulation.
- Glue a protective mesh - apply a 3-4 mm layer of adhesive to the surface of the basalt slab, apply a piece of mesh and use a spatula to embed it into the adhesive. Special corner mesh elements or an additional layer of protective mesh are glued to the corners of the house. Use pieces of mesh 5x10 cm to strengthen all façade corners of the openings, glue special plastic corners onto internal corners openings. An additional layer of protective mesh is glued to a height of 2 m.
- After the adhesive has completely dried for 97 days or according to the manufacturer’s instructions, the surface is primed with an adhesive primer and the finishing is performed.
Thermal insulation with polystyrene foam
To insulate walls with polystyrene foam using the ventilation façade system, you will need the following materials:
- adhesive composition from SSS;
- insulation - extruded polystyrene foam;
- dowel screws;
- base strip;
- lumber for constructing a load-bearing frame and counter-lattice;
- superdiffusion membrane;
- material for curtain façade- siding, plank, lining.
Before starting work, decide on the direction of the planks decorative material- the supporting frame will be perpendicular to the direction of the cladding strips. To simplify the work, it is advisable to draw the facade, mark the position of the sheathing beam on it - the planks are attached in increments of 600-5 mm, at the corners and edges of the openings of windows and doors.
ATTENTION: The base strip serves as protection against the penetration of rodents that make nests in polystyrene foam; its width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation layer.
Carrying out the work in stages:
- Facade preparation is similar to the wet method.
- Installation of the plinth strip.
- Fastening the sheathing beams to dowel screws.
- Installation of polystyrene foam boards with glue.
- A day later - doweling.
- Installation of a superdiffusion membrane - the panels are fastened with an overlap of 10...15 cm using vapor-permeable double-sided tape.
- Construction of a counter-lattice made of timber with a cross-section of 40x40 mm.
- Installation of a curtain façade.
Thermal insulation with thermal panels
Thermal panels - composite material, combining a structural (load-bearing) layer, a layer of insulation (expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam or mineral wool board) and a finishing layer of ceramic or other facing tiles.
The use of this material speeds up the work and is not associated with seasonal restrictions, but due to the large weight of the panels it requires a supporting frame made of metal profiles.
The most commonly used profiles are galvanized roofing steel for fastening drywall. To perform thermal insulation you will need:
- drill;
- dowel screws;
- insulation;
- metallic profile;
- base strip.
The work algorithm repeats the technology of the ventilation facade system with the difference that the frame is not made of timber, but of metal:
- Prepare the façade surface.
- Mount the plinth strip.
- A supporting frame is built from hangers and profiles attached to them.
- The insulation is mounted on the glue, and after a day it is secured with dowels.
- Thermal panels are installed.
Internal thermal insulation of the house
Gas silicate walls can also be insulated from the inside of the house, but such insulation will eat up 10 cm usable area along each wall, and then require forced ventilation to normalize the microclimate.
Mineral wool slabs or expanded polystyrene can be used as a heat insulator; insulation can be done either wet or dry. As a finishing material, plasterboard, chipboard or OSB is used.
Gas silicate blocks are an excellent masonry material, however, they should be purchased from trusted manufacturers, with a certificate of conformity, so as not to waste money on poor quality material handicraft production.
When performing work, you should remember that this material has low mechanical and impact strength, application percussion instrument pit punch is unacceptable.
Since the blocks have high moisture absorption, it is advisable to hydrophobize them with a special primer before gluing the insulation.
