Edge for tabletop with glue - how to glue? How to glue a PVC edge at home How to glue a melamine edge at home

Everyone knows a fact that often occurs when edgebanding is the melting of PVC edges, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.

There is a problem of wave-like formation on edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, peeling of the edge from the part, lumpy edges of 0.4 mm, whitishness of the edges and many other problems.

It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case more deeply than to attribute everything to the quality of the edges.

So first we should consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage at this stage in detail, we're talking about about using exclusively PVC edges.

The process consists of several stages:

    Gluing

    Trimming

    Milling overhangs

    Cycling

    Polishing

Gluing PVC edges.

Regardless of the type of machine, edge gluing is done using melt glue.


The likelihood of marriage occurring at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:

    Carry out the most suitable settings by trial and experiment

    Select a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature

    Take into account the parameters of laminated chipboard (humidity, friability)

The edge melts when glued.


If you use a feed speed of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply a more heat-resistant edge, and it must be taken into account that permissible temperatures, declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. We recommend changing the operating temperature of the glue bath.

After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, surface roughness appears:

A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the incorrect selection of hot melt glue.

The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right hot melt adhesive. Lumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of chipboard with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.

The problem can be corrected by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the bumpiness will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.

When gluing it forms uneven surface due to indentation of the chipboard structure:

This problem is easily solved. Simply move out the additional pressure rollers.


The seam between the edge and the end of the part is too noticeable.

When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled hot melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the glue to visually merge the adhesive seam of the edge and the chipboard.

The edge is melted on curved parts.

This problem is also worth looking at from the point of view of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.

So, for example, for machines manual type When the part moves around a stationary adhesive unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.

For equipment with automatic feeding, when the workpiece moves around the gluing unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive unit is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edge tape.

Overhang milling, scraping.


After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.

This problem occurs when the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.

Increase the cutter speed and reduce the edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.

There are chips on the edges of the edge.

Chips on a PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.

They may indicate that the rotation speed of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both.

Polishing.


In order to ensure that the edge is well polished and all remaining chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel and applying a release liquid to the surface of the chipboard.

Conclusion:

Based on the above, we recommend that when changing suppliers, you do not immediately attribute poor edgebanding to .

In order to make sure that the edge is not suitable, you need to check its use on several modes/machines, check whether the temperature and feed speed are set correctly, take into account the composition of the glue and much more.

Of course, the quality of the edges primarily influences the cladding process. Based on many years of experience in the supply of edge strips, we recommend that when choosing materials you base your choice not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.

So, in order not to spoil the product/part at the edge banding stage, you must:

    Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges

    Pay attention to how long the importer has been working on the market

    How many suppliers/factories does the importer have (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).

We offer to solve your problems at the edgebanding stage.

You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the “LUX” edge, and save without loss of quality by using the “STANDARD” PVC edge. ().

We are happy to solve any problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program/in production, we will accept a full refund.

We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edge materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.

Why edge chipboard is done and how to glue the edge with an iron

Chipboard is the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high-quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not very aesthetically pleasing internal structure of the product, edging is performed on the end side - the installation of special decorative panels from melamine, PVC or other available types of synthetic plastics.

Why else do they edge furniture?

In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, edging furniture performs several more equally important tasks:

  • Moisture protection. It is known that when wet, chipboard swells and loses its original shape and strength. The plastic edge prevents moisture from penetrating from the ends. This is especially true for rooms where there are constant flows of water - kitchen, bathroom, dining room, etc.

The edge, in addition to giving the furniture a finished look, performs several other important functions.

  • Insect and mold protection. Porous surface particle boards well suited for the proliferation of various microorganisms that destroy the internal structure of the material. If you glue it to the edge protective film, the service life of the furniture will increase significantly.
  • Fight against harmful substances. As is known, in the production of chipboards, formaldehyde resins are used, vapors of which can be released during operation through the open ends. The edge tape prevents these substances from entering the environment.
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    Where should edging be done?

    Furniture manufacturers often edge only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this seems quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can lead to certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal structure of the chipboard.

    If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, you can easily do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with a regular iron.

    Don’t be lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will look in detail at how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.

    Edge materials

    Edging open furniture surfaces can be done using different decorative elements, differing in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.

    • Melamine tape. The simplest and cheapest edge. It is used in budget products and can be destroyed by moisture or mechanical stress. The main advantage of such a tape is its price and ease of application.

    Advantages and disadvantages of melamine edging

  • PVC edge. May have a thickness of 0.4 or 2 mm. It is customary to glue thicker tape to the front surfaces, and thinner tape to hidden ends. This edge protects furniture well from chips and shock loads, but gluing it at home is difficult - this requires special equipment.
  • ABC plastic. The most durable option. Plastic edging is done only in production.
  • T-profile. It was used in the past, when there were few specialized machines for edging, and milling machines were installed in every workshop. A milling cutter was used to cut out a longitudinal groove in the end into which the edge is inserted.
  • Overlay T-profile. T-profile edging is the most convenient option For self-use. It's easy enough to stick it on chipboard end using liquid nails or glue. The disadvantage of this solution is the edge protruding above the surface, which increases the thickness of the product and after some time becomes clogged with dirt.
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    How to glue an edge with an iron

    In production, edging is done using tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation when high temperature ensuring the formation of a thin, even layer. In order to glue the edge, several rollers are used, pressing it tightly to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove any remaining glue and base material, and sand the joint until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.

    You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with already applied adhesive composition. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed in a similar way:

    • Melamine tape can be glued with a regular household iron. To do this, you need to cut off a piece of edge with a margin of length and width, place it on the end being processed and carefully smooth it with an iron. After passing the iron, the heated surface must be pressed using a wooden block or any other object capable of transmitting the necessary load.


    When heated, the adhesive firmly adheres the edge to the chipboard

  • After the edge strip for chipboard is glued, it is necessary to trim off its hanging ends and treat the surface of the edge. The tape is cut with a sharp knife located strictly perpendicular to the plane of the end.

    The knife used to remove excess edges must be very sharp.

  • After cutting, the edge must be sanded. This can be done using a block with sanding paper attached.
  • You can find out more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard below:

    Gluing the U-shaped profile to the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have already discussed this method earlier. This edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.

    The presence of microgaps between the U-profile edge and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or bathroom, so edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.

    Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. At the factory, you can order tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on a machine will ensure perfect evenness and precision of application. decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the minimum price.

    You might be interested to know

    http://drevplity.ru

    Furniture edging is an edge material that performs a protective and decorative function. These products are used to decorate the uncoated part of furniture facades and prevent minor mechanical damage and swelling caused by high humidity air.

    Our offer

    In the online store of the 21st Century company you can buy edge tape for furniture at reasonable prices. We sell of this material wholesale and retail, providing discounts for large orders. Our catalog includes melamine edges. These products are paper tape impregnated with melamine resins. Hot-melt adhesive is applied to their reverse side. Edge tape can be purchased for lining furniture for the kitchen, living room, bathroom and other rooms. As a rule, it is used in the manufacture of laminated chipboard cabinets.

    If you want to buy edging or other furniture fittings in our online store, simply add the selected products to your “Cart” and fill out the online application. If you have any questions regarding the assortment, current prices and terms of cooperation, call our company managers at the numbers listed in the “” section.

    If you make your own furniture from laminated chipboard or MDF, then after cutting the sheets it is necessary to protect their end parts, which will increase the service life of the product and give it a beautiful appearance. For this purpose, PVC furniture edges are often used, but there are other varieties. In this article we will talk about all the types, the need for edging and how to glue it yourself.

    Self-adhesive furniture edge - a narrow strip of melamine, polyvinyl chloride, ABS plastic or other material. It protects and decorates the cut area. When producing cheap furniture from laminated chipboard, edging is simply necessary, as it protects people from exposure to harmful formaldehyde. In addition, it gives strength and protects the material from moisture getting inside.

    Types of edges

    The most popular types of furniture edges are:

    For gluing on the machine, use a special hot melt adhesive for PVC edges. It is sold in granule form and becomes liquid when heated. The adhesive is applied to the tape either when heated or during the production of the tape.

    Chipboard edges

    To ensure that your countertop or cabinet edging is beautiful and durable, the best way is to have it edged in-house. This is usually done in the same place where laminated chipboards are purchased and ordered.

    Approximate prices for application (per 1 linear meter along with the material):

    • PVC edge 2 mm – 40 rub.;
    • PVC edging 0.4 mm – 25 rubles;
    • edge for melamine chipboard – 25 rubles;
    • You will have to pay additionally for processing curved areas.

    The most popular PVC edge in Russia is Rehau, it has wide choose color range, so you can choose a color to match any chipboard. The width of the tape varies - from 15 to 45 mm.



    To order this service for a store, you must first prepare a diagram of how to glue the PVC edge: in what places to apply it and what thickness. Those places that will not wear out can be covered with 0.4 mm PVC to save money (for example, the back and bottom edges). All visible areas are treated with 2 mm PVC. Where the joint will be attached to the joint with another part, no processing is needed.
    Difference PVC coating 0.4 and 2 mm
    Let's give an example.

    • On the internal inset shelf, only the front edge is treated with a layer of 2 mm.
    • The top cover is on all sides (the back edge is 0.4 mm, the rest - 2 mm).
    • The drawer front is processed on all sides with a thickness of 2 mm.

    To simplify calculations, you can use special furniture programs, they create the project automatically. As a result, to assemble an average wardrobe, a PVC edge for chipboard will cost 1.5-2 thousand rubles. It won't be very cheap, but it will be of high quality, safe and durable.

    Glue the edge yourself

    For those who want to save money, there is a melamine edge with glue that is glued with an iron. This option is quite suitable for repairs old furniture– don’t carry several small boards into the workshop. To solve the question of how best to glue the edge to the tabletop, it is better not to be lazy and contact the manufacturer, or still use an overlay profile, since melamine will quickly deteriorate from moisture and abrasion.

    An old Soviet iron or construction hair dryer. The iron thermostat is set to approximately 2.5 position. In addition, you will need a rag, a knife, fine sandpaper and a stand for fixing the parts.

    You can also remove old edge tape using an iron. To do this, it is heated and pryed with a spatula or knife.
    In this video you can see how to glue a 2 mm edge at home:

    To achieve truly good result It’s still better to order factory edging. The overpayment will not be too large, but the durability will increase significantly. Now on sale you can find almost any color of tape to imitate wood or a plain version.

    Melamine edging, despite the fact that it was invented quite a long time ago, is still quite widely used in the manufacture of modern cabinet furniture. Also today, its competitors (PVC and ABS edges) have appeared and become widespread, which, however, do not affect the popularity of melamine edges.

    Among its main advantages are such qualities as low cost and ease of sticking and processing (no complex equipment, everything you need is available in any modern house– but we’ll talk about that a little later). The main disadvantage of such edge material is the low mechanical strength(where the PVC is only slightly dented, the melamine will break off).

    In general, this type of edging materials has firmly established itself in small workshops and does not intend to leave them.

    Let's look at the process of edging with melamine edges in detail. The edge itself is sold with hot-melt adhesive applied to its inner edge (visible in the photo as a fine mesh).

    To work we will need an iron, scissors, a metal ruler, a block of fine sandpaper and a glove. It is enough to pull the glove on left hand(there will be a tool on the right).


    We place the part on its end (you can fix it in a vice or other clamp so that it does not fall). We put an edge on it, making a slight overhang from the end.


    Iron the edge heated to medium (when overheated, the glue boils and the edge bubbles, after which it can be torn off and thrown away), first towards the left hand.

    Unfortunately, both hands are not included in the frame, since I am not yet able to work with them and the camera at the same time.

    In this case, it is advisable to hold the iron perpendicular to the part with the nose facing you (the fact is that Soviet models have a slight concavity on the sole, which does not allow the edge to be pressed tightly to the surface, but backwards so that the wire does not interfere with work). You may find a more comfortable iron position for yourself, but that’s how I do it. The first stroke of the iron goes to the left hand, while it aligns the position of the edge. In this case, the tape primarily sticks to the surface. Then we move the iron to reverse side, rolling his left palm after him.


    Remove the iron and continue pressing the edge until the glue cools (4-6 hand movements).


    Using scissors, we cut the tape “to the edge” from the main tape.


    Immediately turn the workpiece over and cut off the edge on the reverse side.


    In this way, overhangs are removed from the ends of the workpiece. Moreover, it turns out to be flush with its end. Manufacturers offer special end cutters for this, but, as can be seen from the photo, it works just as well with scissors.


    Now we move on to removing overhangs from long edges. To do this, we lay the workpiece on the surface so that the edge hangs from the workbench (this way we do not risk breaking the overhang).

    Take a simple metal ruler or square in your hands (many people use knives, pieces of iron from planes and other exotic things, but I prefer a ruler, because sharply sharpened pieces of iron, at the slightest change in the cutting angle, tend to either move upward or, worse, crash into the material of the part, damaging the laminate (a ruler cannot do this).

    The square is placed on the surface of the workpiece at an acute angle to the edge (as in the photo) and in one motion the excess tape is cut off. At the same time, it should not be bent - the ruler should be tightly pressed to the surface of the workpiece. Along with the overhang of the edges, excess glue, which often protrudes from the joint, is also cut off.


    In principle, the edge is already quite smooth. But to achieve a better effect, it should be sanded.


    To do this, pick up a fine-grain sanding block (P180, for example) and make one or two (no more) movements, at an angle of 45 degrees to the workpiece, smoothing the edge and removing possible burrs.


    Sometimes a phenomenon called non-gluing occurs. It becomes clearly visible just after the overhang is removed.


    We take the iron in our hands again and warm up the defective area, at the same time pressing the edge.


    Then again, use your palm to firmly press the edge strip onto the workpiece. As a rule, this is enough.


    Now forming the edge joint in the corners. The edge (it is advisable to cut it off immediately with a small allowance - this way it is more convenient to work with short sections) is applied to the workpiece.


    It is pressed with an iron and also rolled with the palm of your hand. The result is a joint that needs to be finalized.


    Using scissors, placing the upper jaw on the edge of the workpiece strictly parallel to it, we cut off the excess.


    A small (no more than 0.5 mm) residue remains.


    We cut it by tilting the scissors at an angle of approximately 30 degrees.


    The result is a joint like this. From the end, it also remains to cut off the excess tape with a ruler according to the method described above.


    Furniture is important element not only in the apartment, but also in other rooms. It is used in offices, educational and medical institutions, etc. Today the choice is quite large. Products differ in design, size, materials from which they are made, and more. Thus, choosing the option that you specifically need will not be difficult.

    Based on what material is used in the manufacture of furniture, its cost is determined. If we talk about inexpensive products, they are mainly made from chipboard. This material is quite durable and wear-resistant. Excellent for furniture production.

    But here it is inner part It doesn't look very aesthetically pleasing. To hide this, additional actions are carried out, which are called edging. They consist of installing special decorative panels on the end side. They cope well with these tasks different types synthetic plastics. For example, melanin, PVC, etc.

    Melamine edge with glue: advantages

    The choice of edge materials that can be used in furniture production is large. If we talk about which one is the most popular, then this is melamine edge. Basically, this is what they prefer. No wonder. After all, it has a lot of advantages. The main one is the cost of the product. It is low enough that it is accessible to everyone. In addition, it is worth noting simple technology use. To carry it out you need simple tools, which are found in almost every home. At the same time, to perform edging with this material, no special skills or knowledge are required. Everyone can do it.


    In addition, it is worth noting such advantages as reliability and practicality. It is resistant to moisture and other unfavorable conditions. Perfectly protects furniture from them. At the same time, its choice is huge. Different textures, colors, etc. will help you choose it for any type of chipboard.

    Of course, like any other material, this one has its drawbacks. Firstly, it is very thin. Secondly, the drawing does not hold up well. Thus, you should not count on its long service life.

    Melamine tape with glue: features of edging

    Before you begin, you need to decide which tools will help you complete the task. this work. If melamine tape is chosen for edging, an iron is required. It is better to give preference to a small device. It is important that the sole is thick and free of damage and stains. An iron that was produced 30-40 years ago is perfect for such purposes. These products meet these requirements.

    Another tool you will need for this job is a knife. But an ordinary kitchen one will not work here. It must be shoemaker's or stationery. You can also use a planer knife. There are also special tools that are designed for these purposes. Such knives are produced by Virutex.

    And, of course, a block of sandpaper. You can purchase it or make it yourself. If the second option is chosen, then you need to glue sandpaper to a block of a certain size. In this case, you can use different grain sizes. Glue paper on all sides of the block. The most suitable grit size is 150 units for these purposes.


    How to glue melamine edge?

    The process of gluing the melamine edge is simple. Therefore, there is no need to turn to the experts for help. You can do it yourself. You can see how to do this in the video below.

    The quality of edging is influenced by various factors. The first and, perhaps, main thing is how the chipboard slab is cut. There are a number of requirements for the end that it must meet. So, it should be smooth, without steps or other defects formed after processing the sheet under saw blade. Only in this case will the adhesion of the tape be strong and reliable.


    When choosing an edge, you should give preference to the one on which glue has already been applied. You can find it in many construction stores. It is presented in the form of a bay of 200 pm. But this does not mean that you need to buy everything. You can take the size that you need.

    Process steps

    To glue the tape, you need to place the part correctly. That is, vertically. In this case, the end that is being processed should be at the top. Provide a stable position for the sheet so that it does not move. In this case, you can use a special device.

    Then prepare the required piece of edge. To do this, it is carefully measured and cut from the general tape. Moreover, its length should be 3-5 cm longer than the side that is being processed.

    You need to start gluing from the middle. The tape is laid on it, and the edges should be as smooth as possible. Then, holding it with one hand, iron it with the other with an iron that is preheated. You choose its temperature experimentally. As practice shows, a high one can lead to the appearance of bubbles on the edge, and a low one does not ensure adhesion.


    Do not put too much pressure on the iron, as this may cause the edge to move out of place. As a result, the gluing will be crooked. But if you press weakly, it will not stick. Moderate force must be applied.

    The quality of gluing can be determined during the process. When ironing the surface, the glue should be squeezed out from under the tape. Particular care must be taken at the ends of the product and the place where it comes into contact with the surface that is pre-laminated, since these areas adhere less well than others.

    Now you need to leave the edge to cool. At this time, you need to smooth the surface with a rag. This way, the tape will not peel off when it cools. The duration of this procedure is short. As soon as the base reaches a temperature of 50 degrees, you can remove the excess that has formed around the edges.

    Start from the edges. The ends that end up remaining must also be removed. Since the material has become hard, they break off easily. Then take a block of sandpaper and sand them down. This will give the timber an attractive appearance.

    If you approach this work responsibly and carefully, the quality of its implementation will be at the highest level. high level. Moreover, it will be impossible to distinguish the result from the one obtained when using special edging equipment.

    Furniture edges are a tape material that protects our lungs from toxic fumes when using interior items made of chipboard, MDF and laminated chipboard. Modern technologies, which are implemented in the manufacture of furniture, allow us to minimize the use of harmful components. However, it is still better to cover the ends with a special edge.

    Currently, a wide variety of furniture edges are available to the consumer audience. Individual varieties differ according to the material of manufacture, installation method and cost. Among other things, each facing product has its own obvious pros and cons. Let's take a closer look at the edges.

    Purpose

    In addition to giving furniture aesthetic qualities, furniture edges help protect the ends of products made from chipboard, MDF, and other common materials from the harmful effects of moisture. It is through the ends that insects, microorganisms, and fungal spores penetrate into the inner layers of wood, which accelerate the process of decomposition of materials. Furniture edges make it possible to eliminate the above manifestations.

    Areas of application

    Furniture edges are successfully used for processing the following interior items:

    • countertops, kitchen and office tables;
    • top covers of mobile and side cabinets;
    • sides and bottoms of cabinets;
    • ends of drawers, cabinets.

    Melamine edge

    This self-adhesive furniture edge is facing material on paper based. Products in this category are treated with impregnations in the form of melamine resins. It is the latter that endows the edges with protective qualities.

    Based on the number of layers of paper used in the production, multi-layer and single-layer melamine end tapes are distinguished.

    If we talk about the advantages of edges in this category, first of all it is worth noting the widest range available options. Thanks to this, the consumer has the opportunity to select exactly the end tape, the shade and parameters of which most accurately correspond to the existing needs.

    When gluing furniture, there is no need to use expensive equipment. For installation it is enough to use a regular household iron. Any housewife can cope with such a task.

    The disadvantage of melamine tapes is their insignificant thickness (from 4 to 6 mm). This results in the inability of the material to withstand significant mechanical stress. Due to the paper structure, such edges do not effectively protect furniture ends from moisture penetration.

    Furniture edging PVC

    This type of end tape is much more durable and resistant to all kinds of external influences compared to the previous solution. The material is available in two versions - 2 and 4 mm thick. Thin tapes are usually used for decorative finishing of ends that remain visible. 4 mm edges are applied to hidden surfaces where there is an increased risk of damage.

    The installation of edges made of polyvinyl chloride requires the use of special machines. Therefore, furniture processing using such tapes is carried out only in production workshops.

    Advantages of PVC edges:

    • durability and wear resistance;
    • effective protection of furniture ends from mechanical stress and moisture;
    • resistance to acids, alkalis, fats and salt solutions;
    • absolutely non-flammable.

    As for the disadvantages of polyvinyl chloride edges, we can highlight the lack of ability to independently process furniture ends at home, as well as some difficulties in obtaining perfectly smooth, glossy surfaces.

    ABS edge

    ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is an extremely durable, highly reliable facing material that does not contain chlorine. Therefore, edges made from this base are widely used in the furniture industry due to their safety.

    ABS has a more pliable, soft structure compared to PVC. The material is easy to process, does not accumulate a static charge of electricity, and the cutting process is not hampered by the adhesion of small chips.

    Advantages of ABS edges:

    • preservation of the original, rich shade throughout the entire service life;
    • the presence of a perfectly smooth surface;
    • no toxic fumes during processing and heating.

    The only drawback of ABS edges is their rather impressive cost in comparison with the same melamine products and polyvinyl chloride facing tapes.

    Acrylic edge

    What does such a furniture edge look like? Photos of similar products indicate their multilayer structure. Bottom contains decorative finishing or a drawing. Upper layer presented in the form. Thanks to this structure, a three-dimensional image effect is created. It is for this reason that acrylic products are also called 3D edges.

    Among the advantages of such products are a high level of rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress. Acrylic edges successfully protect the ends of furniture from scratches, impacts and chips. The main disadvantage here is the high price.

    Softforming and postforming edge

    Considering furniture edges and what materials there are for this purpose, one cannot help but note the options for surface treatment using softforming and postforming. These solutions make it possible to provide absolute tightness to the ends of furniture, table tops and facades.

    In general, there is no significant difference in the characteristics of these materials. The only difference is the possibility of laminating relief surfaces that have been processed with softforming edges.

    How to glue furniture edges?

    The use of melamine edges allows you to independently process furniture ends at home. The material is placed on glue and then fixed using a hot iron. This solution is quite acceptable if it is necessary to perform quick, relatively cheap repairs of old furniture.

    The work is carried out in several stages:

    1. To begin with, any old one is warmed up. In addition to it, you need a knife, a small fraction, and a rag.
    2. The edge is trimmed with a margin of several centimeters. The piece is applied to the furniture end, pre-treated with glue, and then heated with an iron.
    3. After melting the glue, the edge tape is pressed tightly with a rag.
    4. Once the material is securely fixed to the surface, all excess is cut off. First, the end parts are removed and only then the longitudinal parts.
    5. Finally, the surfaces are finished with sandpaper.

    To ensure the convenience of performing work, it is advisable to find a knife with sharp blade, which will not leave burrs. During the cutting process, you must be careful not to remove excess.

    Using the same iron, it is convenient to clean surfaces from the remnants of old edge tape. To do this, just warm up the surface of the device, walk along the end and pry off the unnecessary tape with a spatula or knife.

    Eventually

    If the main task in the manufacture of furniture is to obtain the highest quality result, it is better to resort to factory edging of the ends. When the only thing on the agenda is redecorating old interior items, you can limit yourself to gluing the surfaces yourself with colored tapes. Fortunately, today there is a wide variety of edges on sale that imitate natural materials and are distinguished by a whole host of original shades.

    Melamine edging, despite the fact that it was invented quite a long time ago, is still quite widely used in the manufacture of modern cabinet furniture. Also today, its competitors (PVC and ABS edges) have appeared and become widespread, which, however, do not affect the popularity of melamine edges.

    Among its main advantages are such qualities as low cost and ease of sticking and processing (no complex equipment is required, everything that is needed is available in any modern home - but we’ll talk about this a little later). The main disadvantage of such edging material is its low mechanical strength (where the PVC is only slightly dented, the melamine will break off).

    In general, this type of edging materials has firmly established itself in small workshops and does not intend to leave them.

    Let's look at the process of edging with melamine edges in detail. The edge itself is sold with hot-melt adhesive applied to its inner edge (visible in the photo as a fine mesh).

    To work, we need an iron, scissors, a metal ruler, a block of fine sandpaper and a glove. It is enough to pull the glove on your left hand (there will be a tool in your right hand).

    We place the part on its end (you can fix it in a vice or other clamp so that it does not fall). We put an edge on it, making a slight overhang from the end.

    Iron the edge heated to medium (when overheated, the glue boils and the edge bubbles, after which it can be torn off and thrown away), first towards the left hand.

    Unfortunately, both hands are not included in the frame, since I am not yet able to work with them and the camera at the same time.

    In this case, it is advisable to hold the iron perpendicular to the part with the nose facing you (the fact is that Soviet models have a slight concavity on the sole, which does not allow the edge to be pressed tightly to the surface, but backwards so that the wire does not interfere with work). You may find a more comfortable iron position for yourself, but that’s how I do it. The first stroke of the iron goes to the left hand, while it aligns the position of the edge. In this case, the tape primarily sticks to the surface. Then we move the iron in the opposite direction, rolling it with our left palm after it.

    Remove the iron and continue pressing the edge until the glue cools (4-6 hand movements).

    Using scissors, we cut the tape “to the edge” from the main tape.

    Immediately turn the workpiece over and cut off the edge on the reverse side.

    In this way, overhangs are removed from the ends of the workpiece. Moreover, it turns out to be flush with its end. Manufacturers offer special end cutters for this, but, as can be seen from the photo, it works just as well with scissors.

    Now we move on to removing overhangs from long edges. To do this, we lay the workpiece on the surface so that the edge hangs from the workbench (this way we do not risk breaking the overhang).

    Take a simple metal ruler or square in your hands (many people use knives, pieces of iron from planes and other exotic things, but I prefer a ruler, because sharply sharpened pieces of iron, at the slightest change in the cutting angle, tend to either move upward or, worse, crash into the material of the part, damaging the laminate (a ruler cannot do this).

    The square is placed on the surface of the workpiece at an acute angle to the edge (as in the photo) and in one motion the excess tape is cut off. At the same time, it should not be bent - the ruler should be tightly pressed to the surface of the workpiece. Along with the overhang of the edges, excess glue, which often protrudes from the joint, is also cut off.

    In principle, the edge is already quite smooth. But to achieve a better effect, it should be sanded.

    To do this, pick up a fine-grain sanding block (P180, for example) and make one or two (no more) movements, at an angle of 45 degrees to the workpiece, smoothing the edge and removing possible burrs.

    Sometimes a phenomenon called non-gluing occurs. It becomes clearly visible just after the overhang is removed.

    We take the iron in our hands again and warm up the defective area, at the same time pressing the edge.

    Then again, use your palm to firmly press the edge strip onto the workpiece. As a rule, this is enough.

    Now forming the edge joint in the corners. The edge (it is advisable to cut it off immediately with a small allowance - this way it is more convenient to work with short sections) is applied to the workpiece.

    It is pressed with an iron and also rolled with the palm of your hand. The result is a joint that needs to be finalized.

    Using scissors, placing the upper jaw on the edge of the workpiece strictly parallel to it, we cut off the excess.

    A small (no more than 0.5 mm) residue remains.

    We cut it by tilting the scissors at an angle of approximately 30 degrees.

    The result is a joint like this. From the end, it also remains to cut off the excess tape with a ruler according to the method described above.

    Furniture is an important element not only in the apartment, but also in other rooms. It is used in offices, educational and medical institutions, etc. Today the choice is quite large. Products differ in design, size, materials from which they are made, and more. Thus, choosing the option that you specifically need will not be difficult.

    Based on what material is used in the manufacture of furniture, its cost is determined. If we talk about inexpensive products, they are mainly made from chipboard. This material is quite durable and wear-resistant. Excellent for furniture production.

    But its interior does not look entirely aesthetically pleasing. To hide this, additional actions are carried out, which are called edging. They consist of installing special decorative panels on the end side. Various types of synthetic plastics cope well with these tasks. For example, melanin, PVC, etc.

    Melamine edge with glue: advantages

    The choice of edge materials that can be used in furniture production is large. If we talk about which one is the most popular, then this is melamine edge. Basically, this is what they prefer. No wonder. After all, it has a lot of advantages. The main one is the cost of the product. It is low enough that it is accessible to everyone. In addition, it is worth noting the simple technology of use. To carry it out, you need simple tools that are found in almost every home. At the same time, to perform edging with this material, no special skills or knowledge are required. Everyone can do it.

    In addition, it is worth noting such advantages as reliability and practicality. It is resistant to moisture and other adverse conditions. Perfectly protects furniture from them. At the same time, its choice is huge. Different textures, colors, etc. will help you choose it for any type of chipboard.

    Of course, like any other material, this one has its drawbacks. Firstly, it is very thin. Secondly, the drawing does not hold up well. Thus, you should not count on its long service life.

    Melamine tape with glue: features of edging

    Before you get started, you need to decide which tools will help you get the job done. If melamine tape is chosen for edging, an iron is required. It is better to give preference to a small device. It is important that the sole is thick and free of damage and stains. An iron that was produced 30-40 years ago is perfect for such purposes. These products meet these requirements.

    Another tool you will need for this job is a knife. But an ordinary kitchen one will not work here. It must be shoemaker's or stationery. You can also use a planer knife. There are also special tools that are designed for these purposes. Such knives are produced by Virutex.

    And, of course, a block of sandpaper. You can purchase it or make it yourself. If the second option is chosen, then you need to glue sandpaper to a block of a certain size. In this case, you can use different grain sizes. Glue paper on all sides of the block. The most suitable grit size is 150 units for these purposes.


    How to glue melamine edge?

    The process of gluing the melamine edge is simple. Therefore, there is no need to turn to the experts for help. You can do it yourself. You can see how to do this in the video below.

    The quality of edging is influenced by various factors. The first and, perhaps, main thing is how the chipboard slab is cut. There are a number of requirements for the end that it must meet. So, it should be smooth, without steps or other defects formed after processing the sheet under the saw blade. Only in this case will the adhesion of the tape be strong and reliable.


    When choosing an edge, you should give preference to the one on which glue has already been applied. You can find it in many construction stores. It is presented in the form of a bay of 200 pm. But this does not mean that you need to buy everything. You can take the size that you need.

    Process steps

    To glue the tape, you need to place the part correctly. That is, vertically. In this case, the end that is being processed should be at the top. Provide a stable position for the sheet so that it does not move. In this case, you can use a special device.

    Then prepare the required piece of edge. To do this, it is carefully measured and cut from the general tape. Moreover, its length should be 3-5 cm longer than the side that is being processed.

    You need to start gluing from the middle. The tape is laid on it, and the edges should be as smooth as possible. Then, holding it with one hand, iron it with the other with an iron that is preheated. You choose its temperature experimentally. As practice shows, a high one can lead to the appearance of bubbles on the edge, and a low one does not ensure adhesion.


    Do not put too much pressure on the iron, as this may cause the edge to move out of place. As a result, the gluing will be crooked. But if you press weakly, it will not stick. Moderate force must be applied.

    The quality of gluing can be determined during the process. When ironing the surface, the glue should be squeezed out from under the tape. Particular care must be taken at the ends of the product and the place where it comes into contact with the surface that is pre-laminated, since these areas adhere less well than others.

    Now you need to leave the edge to cool. At this time, you need to smooth the surface with a rag. This way, the tape will not peel off when it cools. The duration of this procedure is short. As soon as the base reaches a temperature of 50 degrees, you can remove the excess that has formed around the edges.

    Start from the edges. The ends that end up remaining must also be removed. Since the material has become hard, they break off easily. Then take a block of sandpaper and sand them down. This will give the timber an attractive appearance.

    If you approach this work responsibly and carefully, the quality of its implementation will be at a high level. Moreover, it will be impossible to distinguish the result from the one obtained when using special edging equipment.

    Why else do they edge furniture?

    Where should edging be done?

    Edge materials

    Edging the open surfaces of furniture can be done using various decorative elements, differing in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.

    How to glue an edge with an iron

    You can learn more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard in the video below:

    Gluing the U-shaped profile to the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have already discussed this method earlier. This edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.

    Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. In production, you can order tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on a machine will ensure ideal evenness and accuracy of application of decorative cladding, but it requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the minimum price.

    Making furniture with your own hands brings considerable savings Money. Basically, laminated chipboard, a material glued together from sawdust, is used for this purpose.

    The main task of furniture edges is lining the end surfaces of laminated chipboards.

    After cutting, its edges have an unattractive appearance and require further processing.

    The tabletop is the most vulnerable element of furniture, and its edge must be given special attention.

    At the moment, there are several ways to give the ends of the tabletop an aesthetic appearance. Only 2 of them are suitable for making edges at home:

    Applicable edges

    Modern technologies make it possible to produce various edges. However, not all are suitable for gluing at home. Melamine tapes are produced in widths of 19-54 mm. With a thickness of 0.2-0.4 mm, they allow you to refine the edges of countertops of various shapes.

    A large assortment of decors, which, in terms of color, closely match the chipboard.

    A PVC strip of the same width may be slightly thicker. For gluing the ends of the tabletop, edges are produced with or without an applied adhesive layer.

    PVC plastic obtained by extrusion is able to withstand temperatures from minus 10 to plus 50 degrees.

    Tools

    If you decide to glue the edge yourself, check that you have the tools. Prepare before starting work:

    To fix the PVC edge, you can use a clamp and a wooden block. If possible, use a hand router to finish the edging.

    The router is expensive and it is not profitable to buy it for one-time pasting.

    Prepare your workspace, taking into account the space for turning the tabletop. And, most importantly, buy the appropriate melamine tape or PVC edge.

    Choose a ribbon that matches the color of the countertop.

    Melamine tape

    The cheapest and most accessible way to improve edges. Does not require the purchase of glue and specialized tools. Everything you need can be found in any household, and the process will take a few minutes.

    The edge processed in this way looks very neat.

    Should be used for finishing hard-to-reach edges of table tops. At the same time, do not forget about dampness, which will penetrate under the edge and destroy the material.

    The gluing technology looks quite simple.

    PVC strip

    A more progressive and aesthetically pleasing way. True, its implementation requires some skill, but after practicing on scraps, you can master this method.

    The edge, resistant to abrasion and moisture, will ensure long-term use of the tabletop in any interior.

    When gluing the PVC edge, follow the following sequence.

    A properly selected and glued edge will give the tabletop an attractive appearance, and it will serve you for many years.

    You can also get such a smooth and neat edge yourself.

    VIDEO: Gluing furniture melamine edges with an iron.

    50 original types of countertops:


    Furniture edging is an edge material that performs a protective and decorative function. These products are used to decorate the uncoated part of furniture facades and prevent minor mechanical damage and swelling caused by high air humidity.

    Our offer

    In the online store of the 21st Century company you can buy edge tape for furniture at reasonable prices. We sell this material wholesale and retail, providing discounts for large orders. Our catalog includes melamine edges. These products are paper tape impregnated with melamine resins. Hot-melt adhesive is applied to their reverse side. Edge tape can be purchased for lining furniture for the kitchen, living room, bathroom and other rooms. As a rule, it is used in the manufacture of laminated chipboard cabinets.

    If you want to buy edging or other furniture fittings in our online store, simply add the selected products to your “Cart” and fill out the online application. If you have any questions regarding the assortment, current prices and terms of cooperation, call our company managers at the numbers listed in the “” section.

    Why edge chipboard is done and how to glue the edge with an iron

    Chipboard is the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high-quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not very aesthetically pleasing internal structure of the product, edging is performed on the end side - the installation of special decorative panels made of melamine, PVC or other available types of synthetic plastics.

    Why else do they edge furniture?

    In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, edging furniture performs several more equally important tasks:

    • Moisture protection. It is known that when wet, chipboard swells and loses its original shape and strength. The plastic edge prevents moisture from penetrating from the ends. This is especially true for rooms where there are constant flows of water - kitchen, bathroom, dining room, etc.

    The edge, in addition to giving the furniture a finished look, performs several other important functions.

  • Insect and mold protection. The porous surface of particle boards is well suited for the proliferation of various microorganisms that destroy the internal structure of the material. If you glue a protective film to the edge, the service life of the furniture will noticeably increase.
  • Fight against harmful substances. As is known, in the production of chipboards, formaldehyde resins are used, vapors of which can be released during operation through the open ends. The edge tape prevents these substances from entering the environment.
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    Where should edging be done?

    Furniture manufacturers often edge only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this seems quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can lead to certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal structure of the chipboard.

    If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, you can easily do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with a regular iron.

    Don’t be lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will look in detail at how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.

    Edge materials

    Edging the open surfaces of furniture can be done using various decorative elements that differ in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.

    • Melamine tape. The simplest and cheapest edge. It is used in budget products and can be destroyed by moisture or mechanical stress. The main advantage of such a tape is its price and ease of application.


    Advantages and disadvantages of melamine edging

  • PVC edge. May have a thickness of 0.4 or 2 mm. It is customary to glue thicker tape to the front surfaces, and thinner tape to hidden ends. This edge protects furniture well from chips and shock loads, but gluing it at home is difficult - this requires special equipment.
  • ABC plastic. The most durable option. Plastic edging is done only in production.
  • T-profile. It was used in the past, when there were few specialized machines for edging, and milling machines were installed in every workshop. A milling cutter was used to cut out a longitudinal groove in the end into which the edge is inserted.
  • Overlay T-profile. T-profile edging is the most convenient option for independent use. It is enough to simply glue it to the end of the chipboard using liquid nails or glue. The disadvantage of this solution is the edge protruding above the surface, which increases the thickness of the product and after some time becomes clogged with dirt.
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    How to glue an edge with an iron

    In production, edging is done using tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation at a high temperature, ensuring the formation of a thin, even layer. In order to glue the edge, several rollers are used, pressing it tightly to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove any remaining glue and base material, and sand the joint until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.

    You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use tape with an adhesive composition already applied. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed in a similar way:

    • Melamine tape can be glued with a regular household iron. To do this, you need to cut off a piece of edge with a margin of length and width, place it on the end being processed and carefully smooth it with an iron. After passing the iron, the heated surface must be pressed using a wooden block or any other object capable of transmitting the necessary load.


    When heated, the adhesive firmly adheres the edge to the chipboard

  • After the edge strip for chipboard is glued, it is necessary to trim off its hanging ends and treat the surface of the edge. The tape is cut with a sharp knife located strictly perpendicular to the plane of the end.

    The knife used to remove excess edges must be very sharp.

  • After cutting, the edge must be sanded. This can be done using a block with sanding paper attached.
  • You can find out more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard below:

    Gluing the U-shaped profile to the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have already discussed this method earlier. This edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.

    The presence of microgaps between the U-profile edge and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or bathroom, so edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.

    Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. At the factory, you can order tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on a machine will ensure ideal evenness and accuracy of application of decorative cladding, but it requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the minimum price.

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