On a small summer cottage there is no point in installing an expensive septic tank. Moreover, if the dacha comes to life only in the summer, and the number of people living in it is small. You can make a septic tank from barrels at your dacha with your own hands. Previously, 200 liter metal barrels were used to build septic tanks. Over time, plastic barrels appeared on sale. They are much lighter and more durable. As a result, demand quickly shifted from metal barrels to plastic ones. Of course, a good owner not to carry extra costs, will use the barrels that he has. In this article we will look at how to make a septic tank from barrels, using both metal barrels and plastic barrels.
Choosing a place for a septic tank
When choosing a place for a future septic tank, pay attention to the location of wells with drinking water and residential buildings. According to the standards, the septic tank must be located no closer than 5 m from the living space and 15 m from the source of drinking water.
Installation of plastic barrels
So, you have chosen a place for installation and decided to build a septic tank from plastic barrels. You can start doing the work:
- For a small summer cottage, two or three barrels with a capacity of 200-250 liters are enough. Taking a little more space than the diameter of the barrels, mark the place for the pit. Keep in mind that the distance between the barrels should be 25 cm and they should be in one line.
- Get started with the hardest soil work. The depth of the pit is dug in steps. First, a hole is dug to the height of the first barrel. Each next barrel will be installed 15 cm deeper than the previous one.
- The bottom of the first two holes is covered with a sand cushion 10 cm thick. After this, it is well leveled and compacted. If your finances allow, the bottom can be concreted. Concrete is poured into the reinforcement, bent in the form of a loop with a protrusion outward. The barrels will then be tied to these loops.
- The bottom of the hole under the third barrel is covered with a layer of sand of about 50 cm. A layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is poured on top of the sand. This layer will filter the wastewater that goes into the ground.
- Place barrels with bottoms at the bottom of the first two holes. They will serve as settling tanks. If the bottom is made of concrete and there are hinges, then using belts we fasten the barrels to the hinges. This device will protect the barrels from floating in the spring.
- Install the first barrel with a removable top lid. You will use it to clean the container from sediment. From the top of the barrel, remove a riser from a sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm to allow gases to escape.
- If the design of the septic tank provides a filtration field, then cut holes in the second barrel located one above the other at an angle of 45 °. Pipes leading to the filtration field will be connected to these holes.
- In the third barrel, cut out the bottom with a jigsaw or grinder, and place it on the filter bottom of the pit.
- The barrels will be connected to each other by overflow pipes. Therefore, holes with a diameter of 110 mm must be cut in the sides of the barrels for sewer pipes. The hole of the pipe leaving the barrel should be 10 cm lower than the incoming one.
- Using a sewer pipe, connect the barrels together. Seal the joints with sealant.
- After the entire installation procedure, backfill the pit. The pit is backfilled in layers. As the layer is added, water is poured into the barrel so that the pressure does not crush the barrel. And fill the space between the walls of the barrels with a dry mixture of sand and cement. Each layer is compacted as it falls asleep.
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Filtration field
If the groundwater is deep, a filtration field can be added to the septic tank installation. In this case, installing a third filter barrel is impractical and is not installed. Let's take a quick look at how to make a filter field correctly:
- A trench is dug near the installed septic tank. Its width should accommodate 2 perforated pipes, and its depth should be about 70 cm.
- A geotextile fabric is laid in the trench.
- A perforated pipe is laid on top of the canvas and connected to the second barrel.
- The top of the pipe is covered with crushed stone and covered with the remaining edges of the canvas. The edges of the canvas should overlap each other by 15 cm.
- The wrapped pipes are covered with soil. If desired, the filtration field can be seeded with lawn grass.
Installation of metal barrels
If you have metal 200 lying around liter barrels, you can save on buying plastic ones. The fact is that you can also make a septic tank from metal barrels. The installation diagram and procedure are the same as when installing a septic tank from plastic barrels. Just to cut holes in the sides of metal barrels you will need a jigsaw with a metal file. You will also need a welding machine, which can be used to weld overflow pipes and a pipe for the release of gases from the first barrel. To increase the capacity of the septic tank, the barrels can be welded vertically with each other. Jumpers are welded at welding points for strength. Metal tends to rust quickly, so it is advisable to treat the surface of the barrels before installation protective composition. This could be bitumen or any other similar product sold in a hardware store.
Video
In this video you will find instructions for making a bath drain from a plastic barrel:
Purchase an expensive factory-made septic tank for the device autonomous sewerage on a summer cottage, used only in summer time, inappropriate. There is a simple way to solve this problem that does not require large financial costs. You can build a septic tank with your own hands from barrels by combining several plastic containers of various sizes into one system. Previously, such structures were made from metal barrels. However, with the advent of lightweight plastic products on the market, metal structures are used less and less. Operation of such sewerage facility possible only with a small amount of liquid waste. In practice, a homemade septic tank made from barrels is installed to collect Wastewater from bathhouses and temporary buildings.
Requirements for the installation site of the septic tank
When choosing a location for installing plastic containers for collecting sewage waste, they are guided by the sanitary standards and rules in force in Russia. It is necessary to maintain the required distances from the septic tank to the wells and wells used for sampling drinking water, as well as to the foundations of nearby buildings. It is recommended to retreat at least 5 meters from the house, and you can retreat at least one meter from the garage and bathhouse.
Requirements for choosing a location homemade septic tank in relation to other life support facilities for people living or vacationing outside the city
Approximate installation diagram for plastic containers
If in country house If no more than three people live in the summer, then to build a septic tank you will need two or three plastic barrels. The volume of these containers must be at least 250 liters. Barrels connected in series to each other using overflow pipes are installed in one line. Holes are cut in the plastic walls of the containers for installing overflow pipes. At the same time, it is taken into account that the pipe leaving the chamber should be located 10 centimeters lower than the incoming one. The depth of placement of each subsequent container should be 10-15 cm greater than the previous chamber (stepped arrangement).
Two sealed barrels are designed to settle wastewater, and the third with a cut out bottom is adapted for a drainage well for natural filtration of clarified water. The first two chambers are installed on 10-centimeter sand pads, well compacted and level. The third chamber (drainage well) is placed on a layer of crushed stone, 30 cm thick, which is poured onto a 50 cm layer of sand. This sand and gravel filter allows for additional treatment of wastewater that goes into the ground. In areas with high level groundwater, instead of a drainage well, filtration fields are installed.
The simplest diagram of a homemade septic tank, which can be built from plastic barrels, concrete rings, galvanized containers, etc.
List of required materials for installation
If a septic tank is being built from plastic barrels with an aeration field, then the following will be required: Construction Materials and equipment:
- fine-grained crushed stone (fraction size 1.8-3.5 cm);
- geotextile fabric;
- a pair of plastic barrels with a volume of 250 l;
- sewer pipes orange color diameter 110 mm;
- tees and angles for connecting pipes at different angles;
- perforated pipes intended for drainage;
- couplings, flanges;
- glue for PVC pipes;
- two-component epoxy sealant;
- Plumbing tape.
The tools you will need are a level, a shovel, a rake, and a jigsaw. In addition to the listed devices and tools manual labor Wooden pegs are also useful when marking the area for a septic tank and filtration field.
Features of installation work
First, using a jigsaw, holes are cut in the barrels for installing overflow pipes and ventilation riser. The hole intended for connecting the incoming pipe into the chamber is made at a distance of 20 cm from the top edge of the container. The outlet hole is made on the opposite side of the chamber 10 cm lower than the inlet hole, that is, at a distance of 30 cm from the top edge of the barrel.
Installing the overflow pipe into the hole cut in the first plastic settling barrel and filling the gap with two-part epoxy sealant
The ventilation riser for removing gases is installed only in the first settling barrel. It is also advisable to provide this chamber with a removable lid, which allows periodic cleaning of the bottom from settled solid particles. In the second settling barrel, two holes are made at the bottom, located relative to each other at an angle of 45 degrees, for connecting drainage pipes laid along the filtration field.
Important! Gaps in the holes formed due to loose contact between the pipes and the walls of the barrel are filled with two-component epoxy sealant.
Stage #1 - calculation of dimensions and construction of the pit
When calculating the dimensions of the pit, it is assumed that there should be a gap of 25 cm around the entire perimeter between the barrels and its walls. This gap will subsequently be filled with a dry sand-cement mixture, which will serve to protect the walls of the septic tank from damage during seasonal soil movement.
If you have funds, the bottom under the settling chambers can be filled concrete mortar, providing for the presence of mortgages in the “cushion” metal parts with loops that will serve to secure plastic containers. Such fastening will not allow the barrels to “float” through the veins, and thereby disrupt the established autonomous sewage system.
The stepped bottom of the pit must be leveled and covered with a layer of compacted sand, the thickness of which must be at least 10 cm
Stage #2 - installation of plastic containers
Place barrels on the prepared bottom of the pit and secure them with straps to metal hinges, walled up in concrete. All pipes are connected and gaps in the holes are sealed. Fill the remaining space between the walls of the pit and the containers with a mixture of cement and sand, not forgetting to compact them layer by layer. As the pit is filled with backfill, water is poured into the containers to prevent deformation of the walls of the barrels under the pressure of the sand-cement mixture.
Preparing the hole in the second settling barrel to connect the overflow pipe. IN this option the flange is connected not from the side, but from the top
Stage #3 - setting up a filtration field
In the immediate vicinity of the septic tank, a trench 60-70 cm deep is dug, the dimensions of which should allow the placement of two perforated pipes. The bottom and walls of the trench are lined with geotextile fabric with a reserve that is necessary to cover pipes covered with crushed stone on top.
A 30-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile and leveled bulk material and compact
Drainage pipes are laid with perforations in the walls, which are connected to the second settling barrel. Then another 10 cm of crushed stone is poured on top of the pipes, leveled and the backfill is covered with geotextile fabric so that the edges overlap each other by 15-20 cm. Next, all that remains is to fill the filtration field with soil and decorate this place with lawn grass.
As you can see, any summer resident can make a septic tank from barrels. Just remember that this structure is designed for the collection and disposal of small amounts of liquid household waste.
On initial stage construction cannot be done without the construction of a septic tank for wastewater. This is a rather expensive part of the work, but it is possible to reduce the cost. If a small building is being built, for example, a summer house or Summer shower, then a septic tank can be constructed from a plastic barrel. But before installation, you need to understand this issue in more detail.
Advantages
For permanent structures, it is mandatory to install a wastewater collection and treatment system, which can be purchased ready-made. But in terms of costs, the design will not be cheap, and the installation itself is quite complicated. You cannot do without such a complex installation, because water is constantly consumed in a residential building, and simple system diversion will not work.
But if it is necessary to provide a septic tank for country house, which is used only in the warm season, or for a temporary structure, it is recommended to install a septic tank from barrels. Such a system contains a small amount of water, but this is quite enough for a small water consumption.
Septic tank barrels can be used either new or used.
Such a structure can be made not only from plastic barrels, but also from metal ones. It is recommended to use plastic for this work, because metal is susceptible to corrosion.
Scheme
A septic tank is constructed from several barrels that are connected to form a single system. First, you need to draw up a diagram showing the building and the location of the septic tank installation. The latter will be located underground a few meters from the building's location.
The effluent passes through the drain riser, a pipe that reaches at an angle to the first barrel. A total of at least 2 barrels must be used. Then the wastewater from the first barrel passes through the overflow pipe into the second barrel.
For proper installation For a septic tank in a private house, you should definitely draw a diagram. This stage of work is necessary not only for permitting authorities, but also for the owner himself. The drawings will help you accurately calculate not only consumables, but also the sequence of installation.
If 3 barrels are used for a septic tank, then general scheme looks like that:
- The wastewater flows through the inlet into the first barrel, which is gradually filled.
- Large particles settle at the bottom of the first barrel.
- The liquid from the first barrel enters the second barrel through the outlet.
- In the second barrel, smaller particles settle at the bottom.
- Liquid from the second barrel passes through the outlet into the third barrel.
- The treated wastewater goes into the ground through the bottom of the third barrel.
When drawing up a septic tank diagram, it should be ensured that the inlet and outlet of each barrel are located at different levels: the inlet is higher and the outlet is lower. Due to this, the treated wastewater will pass into the next barrel through the outlet before the liquid level reaches the inlet.
Another one important detail: The system is installed on a slope. This installation will allow the liquid to flow freely through the pipes and not stagnate in some area.
Three-section cleaning is provided for the building where the toilet will be installed. But if you need to clean the drain that will come from the kitchen or bathhouse, then 2-section cleaning is enough.
Preparatory work
Installing a septic tank consists of carrying out calculations. For this purpose it is determined required amount pipes for laying them to the system. Then you should prepare the area where the system will be located. It is cleared of debris, vegetation and other objects.
The location of the septic tank from a residential building must be at least 5 m. It is permissible to maintain a distance of 2 m if sewer system installed for non-residential premises.
It is necessary to ensure a large distance from the septic tank to the river or lake. Effluent must not enter aquifers. Therefore, it is recommended to maintain a distance of at least 10 m to the river, and at least 30 m to the lake. If there are trees growing on your summer cottage, then you need to maintain a distance of at least 2 m to them, and 5 m to the roadway.
You should also prepare everything you need for work. For country house A septic tank option consisting of 3 barrels of 250 liters each is suitable.
Required materials and tools
To install a septic tank, you will need the following materials:
- Barrels.
- Sewer pipes.
- Couplings. Flanges.
- Crushed stone.
- Sand.
- Geotextiles.
- Wooden pegs.
- Sealant.
Regarding the choice of barrels it has already been said that best option– these are 3 barrels of 250 liters each. If necessary, the volume of barrels can be increased. Length sewer pipes depends on the distance at which the septic tank will be located from the house. The diameter of the pipes must be at least 110 mm.
If the barrels are installed above the freezing point of the soil, then any insulation will be required: mineral wool, foam plastic, expanded clay.
To carry out installation, you need to prepare a rake, a shovel, a building level and a jigsaw.
Rakes are used to clear and level the area. A shovel is used to dig the trench, and a building level will be used to install the system at an angle. A jigsaw is used to cut holes in the barrels.
Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels. Step-by-step instruction
After preparing everything you need, you can begin installation. This process is carried out in stages:
- Digging a trench.
- Bottom cushioning.
- Laying geotextiles.
- Backfilling of crushed stone.
- Installation of barrels.
- Pipe installation.
- System check.
- Backfilling the trench.
Before digging a trench Measurements should be taken carefully. To make your work easier, you can lay out all the parts on the ground: pipes, barrels. Then mark the contours of the system and start digging holes. To facilitate the work, you can use the services of an excavator, due to which the hole will be of the required size.
Then you should pour a layer of sand at the bottom of the trench, which will serve shock-absorbing cushion. The places where the first 2 barrels (filtering) will be located should be concreted. Place for the 3rd (last) barrel covered with geotextile and filled with crushed stone.
Installation
Before as install barrels into the pit, it is advisable to first connect them together with pipes. After all, doing such work in a pit will be very inconvenient. Holes for pipes are cut in the upper side parts of the barrels.
Shouldn't do big hole. The pipe must fit end to end, otherwise leaks will occur.
The joints must be treated with sealant. For these purposes, it is best to use a car one. The first two barrels will filter the wastewater, so they are installed with a bottom. In the first barrel, solid waste falls to the bottom, and in the second, smaller particles settle at the bottom. The third barrel receives 65% purified wastewater, and this liquid goes into the ground. That is why the bottom of the last barrel should be cut off.
The barrels must be connected to each other with pipes through which the liquid will flow from one compartment to the other. When such a structure is ready, it should be installed in the prepared pit. At the bottom of the third barrel it is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone to a third of its volume. Then a sewer pipe is connected to the first barrel, which departs from the house. In order to guide the pipe at an angle, it is recommended to use wooden pegs that are mounted on at different levels. Using a building level, which is applied to the top of the pegs, the required angle is set. Then a layer of sand is poured, followed by a layer of gravel on top so that it does not cover the tops of the wooden marks.
Ventilation and insulation
Ventilation of the installed septic tank should be provided. To do this, a pipe with a protective canopy at the top is brought out to protect against precipitation.
If the barrels are installed above the freezing point of the soil, then they should be insulated. When all the parts are connected and the joints are treated with sealant, the system is checked. To do this, water is supplied to the first container, and then possible leaks are checked. If they are missing, then you can backfill the septic tank.
To connect pipes with flanges and fittings, you can use a special glue that is compatible with the pipe material. This will ensure a tight connection.
The pit is completely filled with gravel. Then a layer of geotextile is laid on top of the barrels, and after that they are backfilled with soil. It is necessary to ensure that the lids of the barrels are not covered, otherwise it will be difficult to reach them during servicing in the future.
When building a septic tank, professionals advise taking into account several points:
- On soils that are not capable of absorbing water (clay, loam, sandy loam), as well as on soils where the groundwater level is close to the surface, you cannot install a septic tank. In this case, a storage installation is suitable, which does not clean, but collects wastewater. Therefore, you will have to regularly use the services of vacuum cleaners for pumping.
- The septic tank should be installed at a normal distance from the house, garden, road and river.
- To prevent barrels from freezing, you can immerse several plastic bottles half filled with sand. Due to this, icing of the walls can be prevented.
The most simple circuit installation of a septic tank from a barrel is presented in this video
Building a septic tank with your own hands from plastic barrels will provide a good level of comfort for country house. This method is quick installation wastewater system at minimal cost.
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Because because of this the size cesspool limited, then the use of metal barrels is permissible only for summer cottages, where it is not planned to live permanently, and the amount of drainage will be small. A small sewage tank would be inappropriate in a house where several people live permanently.
The main advantage of metal containers is their high strength, due to which they can withstand severe mechanical loads.
However, they have many more disadvantages, which is why their use is limited:
Advantages of barrels made of polymer materials:
- corrosion resistance, so the containers can last 30-50 years;
- high mechanical strength, which is almost similar to metal products;
- most types of plastic are resistant to aggressive chemical compounds that are part of sewage;
- The plastic sewer barrel is completely sealed and does not require additional waterproofing.
However, such containers also have a significant drawback - despite their large volume, their weight is insignificant. For this reason, the tank can be pushed to the surface under the influence of groundwater or frost heaving of the soil. Therefore, the construction of a septic tank requires that the sewer tank be well secured.
How to bury a tank with your own hands
Before burying a sewer container, you need to decide on its location. There are certain sanitary standards regarding the distance to residential buildings, water sources, site boundaries. It would be a good idea to entrust the choice of location for installing a septic tank to a specialist who will take into account the location of buildings on the site, communications, groundwater level and other nuances.
A plastic barrel for sewerage is installed in a pre-prepared pit; its dimensions must be larger than the tank. Thanks to this, if necessary, it will be possible to insulate the structure and securely fasten the barrel. The depth of the pit should be such that the intake hole and the supply sewer pipe are at the same level.
How to bury a barrel under a sewer, procedure:
- At the bottom of the pit, a crushed stone or sand cushion more than 20 centimeters thick is created.
- After this, the base is concreted, and a frame with anchors or hinges is installed for further attachment of the container.
- After 5-7 days, the concrete foundation becomes strong enough and the barrel can be installed.
- The container is attached to the foundation using steel strips or a bandage of cables.
- If necessary, the septic tank is insulated with polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam (read: "").
- Before backfilling the soil, the container must be filled to a certain level. During this work, it is important to take into account the manufacturer’s recommendations - depending on what polymer material the barrel is made of, the features of backfilling may differ.
- The barrel is connected to all inlet and outlet communications, ventilation pipe, after which it is finally covered with soil.
Sewerage from barrels is created quite simply with your own hands, which makes it possible to save on the services of specialists. If the barrel was securely fastened, and all installation requirements were followed, including the manufacturer’s recommendations, then the container can last for several decades.
In conditions country life the arrangement of an autonomous sewer system is as urgent a need as providing a home with clean drinking water from a well or borehole.
One of the most important nodes For local sewerage is a storage tank or septic tank designed to collect human waste and wastewater. There are several types of septic tanks. This could be a well made of concrete rings with additional sealing, old barrels dug into the ground, or modern system biological treatment. Each owner selects the type of septic tank that suits his needs.
An important factor is the cost of such a structure and the entire sewer system as a whole.
Description and principle of operation
Unfortunately, not everyone can afford to purchase an expensive treatment facility. And in some cases there is no need for it at all. For example, if you plan to seasonally collect wastewater at your dacha, entering the sewer system from a bathhouse or any temporary building. The owners quite reasonably believe that in the above cases there is no point in spending a lot of money on construction works or purchasing a biological treatment station. You can get by with an old container - a tank or a barrel.
With the spread and growing popularity of plastic products, the choice has become much easier.On the farm, or at least on the market, there is always a suitable plastic barrel that can be used as a country septic tank. You can dig either one barrel or several into the ground, connecting them to each other according to the principle of communicating vessels. In a design of several barrels, sewage water will be purified more efficiently. And the capacity of the septic tank will increase significantly.
From the three-chamber structure, filtered and settled water can be discharged through drains onto the lawn or garden, thereby moistening the soil near the root system of plants. Of course, the water in such septic tanks will not be completely purified. Therefore, three-chamber structures are used only when working with relatively clean sewage water draining by gravity from bathhouses, showers and temporary buildings.
If fecal matter is discharged into the sewer system, the water from kitchen sinks or dishwashers and washing machines, it will not be possible to purify water in a filtering septic tank from several barrels. In these cases, it is advisable to use a large-volume sealed container.
The operating principle of a septic tank made from barrels is quite simple. The containers are dug into the ground below the level of the sewer pipes. Waste enters the septic tank by gravity. Depending on the degree of contamination of wastewater, a sealed barrel or a system of barrels is used, followed by filtration of purified water into the ground.
Advantages and disadvantages
Like anything engineering structure, a septic tank made from plastic barrels has its pros and cons.
The advantages include:
- relative low cost of construction;
- ease of installation and operation;
- resistance to aggressive environments and low temperatures.
The disadvantage is:
- the relatively small capacity of the septic tank (especially if the first old small container that comes to hand is used);
- the likelihood of the container being squeezed out when the ground freezes.
Design Features
The selected barrel or several containers are buried in the ground below the level of the sewer pipes. This is done to ensure gravity flow. Pipes are laid with slight slope towards the storage or filter container.
The pipes are connected to the barrel body using pipes. Sealant must be used!To serve the family from three people V summer period you will need a container with a capacity of not 
less than 200-250 liters. If several barrels are used, they are installed in one line and connected in series to each other via overflow pipes. Moreover, each of the containers is buried 15-20 centimeters below the previous one (the so-called stepped arrangement), which ensures a slope between the incoming and outgoing pipes.
Typically, the first two containers are used for settling, and the third is used to filter clarified water into the soil. Accordingly, the first containers are always sealed, and the last one has a perforated bottom and is filled halfway with broken bricks or other filter material. A special cushion of crushed stone and sand is installed under the filter tank. 50 cm of sand and 30 cm of crushed stone are poured into the pit.
This bottom filling provides additional filtration sewer water. And in areas with high levels groundwater It is recommended to build a drainage field instead of a filter well, to which water is discharged using a drain system.
If the sewage system is not actively used, as mentioned above, it is enough to install one sealed barrel, from which the water will be regularly pumped out by a drainage or fecal pump.
DIY installation
Before installing even a completely sealed septic tank, you must make sure that the place chosen for work fully complies with all sanitary standards.This is done in case of depressurization sewer drain. Spilled dirty water 
poses a risk to human health and may contaminate environment.
A distance of 50 meters should separate the septic tank from any source of drinking water. From rivers and streams - 10, and from public reservoirs 30 meters. There are also requirements for placement relative to roads and even fruit trees. The septic tank is installed 5 meters from the road and buildings, and 3 meters from garden plants.
Work order:
- digging a pit and trenches for pipes;
- backfilling the sand cushion and sloping the trenches;
- filling concrete base in the pit;
- installation of barrels;
- connecting pipes (sewer products with a diameter of 10-11 cm are used, which are connected by pipes using sealant);
- backfill (a sand-cement mixture is used for the pit around the barrel).
Important points and mistakes
Common installation mistakes include: 
- Failure to comply with the slope of the pipes. As a result, sewage water cannot move by gravity.
- There are several sharp turns. The more bends in the pipeline, the higher the likelihood of sewer clogging.
- Failure to comply with the stepwise burial of two- and three-chamber septic tanks. This engineering error leads to poor drainage of water between the chambers of the structure.
Reviews
We use a 250-liter barrel as a septic tank to collect water from a bathhouse in the country. We bought a new one because we couldn’t find one that was the right size at home. plastic container.
When connecting the barrels to each other, keep the slope! We made a mistake at first, and the water in the first barrel began to stagnate. Appeared bad smell. It is necessary that the inlet for connection be made 20 centimeters from the edge of the barrel, and the outlet at thirty centimeters - 10 centimeters lower.
Very convenient and cheap septic tank. I used several old barrels. In the latter I installed a filter. There are no problems with operation - the liquid goes into the soil itself.
Selection and installation diagram 
- Barrels can be of any size. However, when choosing, it is important to consider the number of family members.
- A 250 liter capacity is enough for a family of two or three people.
- The product should not have too thin walls.
- Installation is carried out in compliance with all sanitary standards(the distance to residential buildings, sources of drinking water, roads is maintained).
- It is not advisable to use containers with a capacity of less than 200 liters.
Installation work includes:
- Preliminary preparation barrels - sawing holes for pipes. A hole is cut into the lid of the first container ventilation window for the riser through which air will flow.
- Preparation of the pit - backfilling with a sand cushion, pouring a concrete base with metal brackets for fastening containers.
- Installation of barrels and connection of pipes. Silicone cannot be used as a sealant!
- Backfilling of the pit and compaction of the cement-sand mixture.
Exploitation
To provide uninterrupted operation sewerage is necessary.
