How to insulate a brick house from the outside and what is better. How to insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside: selection of materials and insulation schemes How and with what to insulate brick walls from the inside

The brick is durable and non-flammable material, he endures high loads and is used in the construction of buildings of various heights. The main disadvantage of such a house is the high thermal conductivity of the walls. The problem can be solved by increasing the thickness brickwork or by insulating the building from the outside.

Insulation of brick walls is divided into three types: external, internal and intra-wall. The last option involves constructing a building using well masonry and placing a heat insulator during the construction stage.

Internal insulation takes away usable area premises, it causes dampness in the walls and is not effective enough. Its advantage is the ability to complete the work at any convenient time and the low cost of materials. If you have a choice, you should give preference to external thermal insulation.

Among its advantages:

The walls are protected from external influence, so they will last a long time.
Significant reduction in heating costs.
The opportunity to create the architectural design of the house to your liking.
Absence of moisture, mold and mildew on the surface of the walls.

Main characteristics of thermal insulation materials

In order for the protection of brick walls to be reliable and durable, the materials used must have characteristics that can withstand precipitation, wind, frost and heat.

Water absorption coefficient is a characteristic of a product that shows how much moisture it can absorb. It is better to choose a material with a low index.
The thermal conductivity coefficient is the main criterion when studying insulation. It shows the amount of heated air lost per 1 hour per square meter. m of material having a thickness of 1 m. This indicator is used as a guide when choosing the thickness of the insulation layer. The best products according to this criterion are polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
Flammability - determines how dangerous a material is in a fire. The products are divided into four cash registers according to this characteristic; preference is best given to G1, which go out without an open flame. Expanded polystyrene boards are susceptible to fire; when using them for cladding, choose those marked “C”, meaning self-extinguishing.
Density determines the amount of additional weight on the structure - the lower the indicator, the lighter the material.
The sound insulation level indicates the possibilities for reducing penetrating noise. All popular heat insulators have this quality to a sufficient extent.
Environmental friendliness - the criterion determines the safety of insulation for health. For exterior finishing it is not critical, but natural materials are preferable to synthetic ones.
Difficulty of installation - if the work is done with your own hands, you need to choose a simple and understandable technology for laying thermal insulation.

The list of popular materials for exterior cladding of a house includes a few products:

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
mineral wool;
warm plaster.

They have different composition, cost and installation features. Let's look at each material in detail.

Foam plastic - slabs of foamed polystyrene, which are cells filled with gas. This structure provides low thermal conductivity 0.032-0.039, good sound insulation and light weight. The density of the foam is 35-50 kg/m3, the recommended layer thickness is 10 cm. The material is capable of absorbing moisture, and therefore requires waterproofing. The disadvantage of insulation is flammability, vapor permeability and sensitivity to light.

Extruded polystyrene foam - the product has the properties of polystyrene foam, but in an improved version. The material does not absorb water, it is more durable and easy to process, its thermal conductivity is 0.028-0.032. The cost of extruded polystyrene foam boards is higher than other materials for thermal insulation.

Mineral wool is one of the the best insulation materials, it does not burn, is safe, has a low density - 35-125 kg/m3. The raw materials for the material are glass, stone and slag. Air voids of 10-15 cm remain between the fibers, thanks to which mineral wool has a thermal conductivity of 0.04-0.045, absorbs noise well and allows steam to pass through. For effective protection, a layer of 10-15 cm is needed.

The product is available in the form of rolls, mats and slabs. Basalt wool in the slab version is characterized by resistance to deformation and increased density - 75-150 kg/m3. The material fits easily into the frame and does not cause problems during installation. The only drawback of mineral wool is its high water absorption, which requires mandatory waterproofing. The insulation is affordable, which contributes to its popularity.

Warm plaster is a dry mixture of cement, lime, plasticizers and additives from expanded polystyrene granules, expanded clay, perlite. The material is somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation - 0.06-0.065, but has many advantages: it does not burn, is vapor permeable, resistant to moisture and microorganisms, and insulates sound well. Plaster has a significant density of 200-350 kg/m3, so it puts additional load on the foundation. The maximum insulation thickness is 5 cm.

Talking about how to insulate brick house outside, you cannot miss the opportunity to decorate with thermal panels. This material is characterized by a low thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.025 with a small thickness of 60-100 mm. The base of the product is polyurethane foam, the decorative part is made of ceramic tiles. The material is resistant to frost and moisture, can be quickly installed and does not require additional finishing.

Mineral wool thermal insulation technology

Insulation of a brick house is carried out in two ways:

creation of a ventilated facade;
« wet facade", gluing slabs to walls.

Mineral wool is optimally suited for the first method, which involves creating a sheathing and a multi-layer cake with vapor and waterproofing.

The surface of the walls is covered with a sheathing made of timber treated with an antiseptic compound or a metal profile. The guides are placed in increments less than the width of the insulation by 2 cm. This will allow the material to be laid more tightly.
Mineral wool is placed between the bars and covered with a waterproofing sheet.
The film is attached to the sheathing with a stapler.
Thin slats are placed on top of the moisture protection, which will provide an air gap between the insulation and the cladding.
The siding is attached to the slats.

Basalt wool slabs are strong enough to be installed without a frame. Correct styling insulation begins with screwing a horizontal metal profile at the bottom, which will keep the material from sliding. The plates are fixed with special glue and dowels with a wide head. Each row begins with an offset. After finishing all surfaces of the facade, a mesh is laid on the mineral wool and a layer of plaster is applied.

Insulating a house with polystyrene foam according to the “wet facade” principle

Panels of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam are attached to the wall using a simple technology called “wet facade” due to the presence of processes that require drying.

The brick wall is being prepared: cleaning from dirt, eliminating defects, priming.
A metal profile is attached at the base level, which will become a beacon when laying the first row and a drip for moisture.
Glue is applied pointwise to the insulation boards and they are pressed against the wall.
Additional fastening is carried out with dowels - in the corners and in the center.
Work begins from the bottom of the corner, the rows are laid offset for the stability of the structure.
On top finished insulation lay down plastic mesh for reinforcement and apply a thin base layer of plaster.
After the solution has dried, priming and final finishing with decorative plaster are performed.

How to apply warm plaster to walls?

Working with insulating plaster will take time, especially if you lack painting skills. To properly prepare the solution, the mixture is diluted according to the instructions.

Brick walls are cleaned and protruding parts are removed. The surface is primed with a penetrating compound.
A plaster mesh and beacons are attached to create a common plane.
The prepared solution is applied to the walls. The thickness of the layer depends on climatic conditions, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
You can create various decorative textures on the finished surface.

The insulation materials considered can be used in any region; the thickness of effective thermal insulation is calculated according to local climatic characteristics.

Today we will look at how to properly insulate a brick wall from the inside in detail. After all, this insulation option occurs quite often. It’s worth saying that in some cases it won’t work.

How to insulate a brick wall from the inside and what materials should be used we will consider below. Also in the video in this article and photos you can see the most difficult moments of performing this work.

Rules for insulating brick walls

Insulating the partitions of a building is a task that is of great importance in terms of retaining heat in living rooms.

These works can be performed both inside residential complex and from the outside:

Outdoor insulation is used in some cases, if the house is many years old and needs finishing, cladding or foundations, or from blocks and wood, are applicable. External insulation is preferable, as it is solid and easier to work with than inside. Having carried out such insulation, the room inside will not become smaller in area, does not need an auxiliary ventilation hatch and does not form a “greenhouse” inside the house.
If the room was built recently, the walls are made of expensive and attractive bricks, or the external covering of the house is not allowed due to the preservation of the architectural appearance of the building, then it is preferable to use insulation from the inside (see Thermal insulation of walls from the inside: choosing materials).
In addition, indoor insulation is carried out if it is not possible to carry out such actions from the outside of just one wall in a multi-year building with many apartments, but does not correspond to current requirements for heat protection. Then it is necessary to insulate the entire building from the outside to retain heat, because exceptional insulation will not provide much benefit.

The main thing that should be the basis of every home is comfort and warmth. No beautiful, ultra-stylish interior can replace a comfortable existence in a pleasant environment with optimal humidity and an optimal temperature difference, at which its readings at the floor surface are 2-4° higher than at the level of human growth. Such a favorable atmosphere can only be achieved with high-quality insulation of all surfaces of the room (apartment, house, cottage) - ceiling, walls, floor.

Wall insulation is an important issue in solving the problem of heat preservation in a living space. If in the insulation process of an old building or a recently built one that requires block, frame, wood or slag cladding, it is better to use the method of external work, then in a new, recently built house made of quality material better use internal insulation. For example, insulating the walls of a brick house from the inside is completely justified if the walls are perfectly laid from expensive and beautiful brick or if you want to create a more comfortable existence in an apartment multi-storey building, in which it is impossible to insulate only the wall of one living room from the outside.

Before starting internal insulation work, it should be borne in mind that the main inconvenience of this type of work is the reduction in the area of the insulated room, in contrast to the external method. But the process of insulating walls from the inside also has some advantages - significantly lower financial and labor costs compared to external insulation, no need for permission from any services to carry out insulation work and no need to invite specialists for external work.

Methods for insulating the walls of a brick house

There are several ways to achieve the desired thermal insulation properties of walls, which depend on the materials used in the insulation process:

plaster;
foam boards (foam plastic, expanded polystyrene);
mineral fiber mats (rolls or slabs);
liquid sprayed polyurethane foam.

It is necessary to dwell in more detail on each of these methods of insulating walls from the inside, considering their pros and cons.

1. Plaster insulation work is the cheapest, but most time-consuming and polluting method of insulation. Insulating plaster is applied in several stages:

Preparing the surface of the walls - cleaning from cracked and peeling plaster, paint or wallpaper, from old brickwork or construction dust from newly built, but rather cold walls. Insulating plaster is an affordable way for many to insulate walls with their own hands.
Strengthening thin (about 5 mm) slats on the surface intended for plaster to provide a gap between the reinforcing mesh and the wall surface.
Placement of a reinforcing mesh, with cells up to 5 cm, over the entire area of the wall to apply a durable layer of plaster without the formation of cracks.
Spray (the initial layer of plaster) with liquid, the consistency of sour cream, cement-sand mortar up to 1 cm thick in order to remove minor defects and unevenness of the brick surface, after wetting the wall with water.
Primer - a plaster solution of pasty thickness is applied in a leveling layer (two or three), with a total thickness of 5-6 cm. Primer layers can be applied either by spraying or spreading, thoroughly drying each layer.
Covering is the final layer of warm plaster, no more than 4-5 cm thick, made with a liquid solution based on fine sifted sand, the goal of the last layer is a perfectly flat surface.

2. Plates of foamed polystyrene materials (foam plastic or expanded polystyrene) are used quite often as insulation inner surface walls, including brickwork. More often, together with foamed polystyrene boards, as well as with mineral wool boards, mats or rolls, the walls of a brick house are insulated with plasterboard. Foam or polystyrene foam boards, which have very low thermal conductivity, are also excellent noise absorbers. In addition, foamed polystyrene insulation is very affordable and easy to install; it is quite possible to insulate walls from the inside with foam plastic or polystyrene with your own hands, even without special skills in construction. The main thing is to comply simple technology works:

applying a layer of plaster to the brick wall, if there is none;
cleaning, wall preparation - removal of old wallpaper and paint, puttying of possible cracks and large irregularities (small ones are leveled with a layer of glue), mandatory deep penetration primer with antiseptic antifungal additives;
coating with a layer of leveling putty, if necessary, and a primer;
diluting the glue - strictly according to the instructions on the packages of the dry adhesive mixture, dilute thoroughly, without lumps, to the consistency of thick sour cream;
coat only the surface of the wall with glue using a smooth metal spatula, then work the surface with a serrated (comb) spatula;
gluing - stick foam plastic (expanded polystyrene) slabs carefully in even horizontal rows, pressing them tightly against the wall, making sure there are no deviations from the plane of the overall leveled surface; there is no need to secure them additionally with dowels;
The slabs must be laid very tightly, avoiding the formation of cracks.

Further work will depend on the finishing coating: When insulating with foam plastic under plasterboard, before gluing the slabs, you should install fastening brackets according to the markings (in increments of 40 or 60 cm, since the width of the sheets is 120 cm) for the subsequent installation of the frame. After laying the foam on the wall, install the frame and attach sheets of drywall to it, which will serve as additional insulation. Fill the joints and screw heads with putty. The coating is ready for painting or wallpapering.

If it is necessary to apply putty after the polystyrene foam, then you should first prime the slabs, seal the joints with putty, and then apply the putty in an even layer, using a spatula, in one or two layers.

If a thin layer of plaster is planned on top of the foam, then strengthen the thinnest layer mortar (a special fine-grained plaster mixture) with a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass material, and on top of it, after the first layer has dried, apply the second, finishing one.

3. Insulation of walls from the inside with mineral wool, due to the rather loose structure of this material, is always carried out with subsequent covering with some finishing panels, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF or plastic, as well as sheets of plywood or plasterboard. Having excellent heat-saving and fire-resistant qualities, mineral wool is afraid of moisture. Therefore, to protect against condensate vapors settling in the thickness of the insulation and loss of insulation efficiency, it is recommended to first install vertical slats on the wall with a pitch narrower than the width of the insulation mats. They are designed to provide an air gap, which will allow the “dew point” to shift, that is, moisture condensation towards the cold wall.

Then you should place a vapor barrier (or waterproofing in a room with high humidity) over the entire wall area on top of the slats. Next, you need to install a frame for further placement of finishing panels or sheets, tightly lay mineral wool in sections of the frame, trying to avoid gaps (possible cold bridges). Then place a vapor barrier over the entire insulated wall area, resulting in a reliably heat-saving “thermos”. At the end of the process, you can attach finishing panels or sheets of coating to the frame for putty (painting, wallpaper).

4. Insulation with liquid sprayed insulation, usually polyurethane foam.

PPU – universal look modern high-tech insulation (similar to penoizol and ecowool in its characteristics).

This method is not yet widely used due to the rather high price of the insulating material. In addition, spraying polyurethane foam requires a special foam filling machine and certain skills for this work.

Before insulation with liquid material, it is necessary to prime the wall surface, having previously cleaned it. Then you should install frame structure(from wooden blocks or metal guides), spray the entire space inside it with polyurethane foam insulation, trying not to go beyond the frame. If excess foam forms after swelling, carefully cut it off. In the future, you can attach any selected finishing coating to the frame.

Having decided to insulate brick walls from the inside using polystyrene boards, it is better to give preference not to polystyrene foam, a cheaper material, but to extruded polystyrene foam, since the latter has fire-resistant qualities (due to the filling of polymer granules with not natural, like polystyrene foam, but carbon dioxide).

If you have the opportunity to choose which method of insulation work to use, internal or external, it is better to choose the latter. But if you insulate the outside brick walls is impossible, then the main thing for insulation from the inside is to ensure reliable vapor barrier.

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Choosing the appropriate method for insulating a wall from the inside

The walls of any house - the most important element, and external walls - in addition to their load-bearing function, also protect the internal space from adverse conditions environment. Modern construction using advanced materials and technologies creates multilayer structures that not only provide reliable protection, but also keep the house warm, reduce energy consumption and significantly save on heating. This, unfortunately, cannot be said about panel and brick buildings post-Soviet space, when the main thing was to complete construction quickly and inexpensively, and the cost of energy resources was not so significant. Today's realities force us to calculate finances and insulate existing housing. How to insulate a wall from the inside if other options are impossible? Let's try to figure it out.

Experts are still arguing about this, but what should a simple homeowner who is faced with a serious problem of heat loss do? In some cases, the recommended facade insulation is simply impossible when the apartment borders elevator shafts, staircases, corridors or expansion joint of the building. Or financial possibilities do not allow the involvement of expensive climbing specialists and specialized high-altitude equipment in insulation work. But if internal insulation is inevitable, it is necessary to carry it out as technologically as possible, because the consequences can be quite unpleasant, the elimination of which will entail serious material investments.

Disadvantages of internal thermal insulation

To find out how to properly insulate a wall from the inside, you should familiarize yourself with all the disadvantages of this process. Some are quite manageable, while others can lead to serious consequences. Therefore, this issue must be approached with extreme caution. You must be prepared for the fact that insulation placed on the inside of the wall will reduce the square meters of the home by about 0.5 sq/m. Insulation work should only be carried out in a completely empty room, both from objects and from residents.

The insulation process will not be limited to the installation of the heat-insulating layer; it will be necessary to take serious measures to protect structures from condensation and the installation ventilation system. If all recommendations are strictly followed this method insulation will not be as economical as at first glance. But otherwise, you will face unpleasant consequences in the form of smudges, mildew, mold, destruction of the finish and additional significant costs.

What processes are hidden behind the insulation?

Behind the insulating layer, processes take place that occur not only at sub-zero temperatures, but also in the off-season, when the temperature outside the window is slightly above zero. The main load on insulation occurs at low temperatures, when the differences between external and internal temperatures are quite serious. And exactly outer wall is the main barrier to serious impacts from the elements.

Temperature, affecting multilayer structures, leads to changes in humidity, and in this case, water acts as the main enemy. When water freezes, it expands and causes destruction of structures or connecting seams. This is what penetrates the insulation layer and destroys its thermal insulation properties and is an excellent environment for the growth and reproduction of microorganisms and fungi.

When water-air vapor reaches its critical saturation, cold surfaces become covered with water in the form of condensation. The favorable temperature for condensation to form is called the “dew point”. This directly depends on the humidity parameters in the room. If the outside air temperature has changed significantly, then the dew point moves inside the wall, since we heat the wall from the inside, and the cooling process occurs on the outside. In this case, the specific location of condensation directly depends on the characteristics of the wall, materials, thickness and relative position of each layer.

How to avoid negative consequences

How to properly insulate a wall from the inside? When carrying out thermal insulation work, experts recommend creating a continuous surface of a durable vapor barrier layer on the inside of the room. And in this case, the important task is to make the wall dry and warm, while maximally isolating the locations of the “dew point” from water vapor.

To do this, the insulation layer should be covered only with high-quality vapor barrier films with ideal sealing of joints and connection lines. A heat insulator with the lowest vapor permeability is used, then it is possible for steam to escape outside. The thermal insulation layer should be glued to the wall with a minimum gap, not along the beacons, but on the comb. Insulated walls are faced only with moisture-resistant plasterboard. To reduce room humidity, additional air exchange is arranged, ventilation systems are used, and windows must be equipped with control valves.

Choosing material

Mineral wool

You shouldn’t be like the majority and chase cheapness, speed and simplicity. Many people insulate rooms using mineral wool, which is placed between the frame posts without using a vapor barrier. A roll analogue is often used, which is not intended for vertical structures and does not have a sufficient resistance coefficient. It is ineffective and harmful way insulation.

"Breathable" properties of mineral wool, in in this case, are its main disadvantage. It is able to absorb moisture and provide unhindered access to the “dew point”. There is little hope that the cotton wool will not get wet, even if you use a special mineral board, whose thermal characteristics are identical to polystyrene foam. Even with careful gluing and sealed vapor barrier, there is a risk of moistening the surface of the walls and insulation. Then all efforts will be reduced to a negative result.

Expanded polystyrene

The best available material for internal wall insulation. The popularity of expanded polystyrene is due to its excellent thermal and performance characteristics. Extruded polystyrene foam increases thermal insulation walls with a minimum thickness of the insulation layer. It does not absorb moisture at all, does not lose its insulating properties and does not allow water vapor to pass through to the “dew point” zone. Even additional film insulation will be unnecessary. Reliable insulation of slab connections and junctions with structures will ensure the significant effectiveness of this material.

Purchase expanded polystyrene with a stepped edge, which ensures high-quality joining without gaps. It is quite justified to install expanded polystyrene on a façade system with the simultaneous use adhesive composition and fixation with disc dowels. In this case, the adhesive layer also performs an insulating function and polyurethane foam adhesive is recommended for use. The sufficient strength of the insulation makes it possible to carry out finishing work directly on the heat-insulating material. This material has a low specific gravity and will not cause overload of the wall.

Options for thermal insulation of a brick wall

If you are the happy owner of square meters in a brick house, then information on how to insulate a brick wall from the inside will not be superfluous for you. To do this, you can use polystyrene foam, having previously plastered the wall surface, or you can limit yourself to just plastering works.

The fastening for the first plaster layer is fabric or metal grid, which is sprayed in the form of a liquid solution applied to the wall with force and 5 - 10 millimeters will be quite enough. This method helps the mortar get into all the gaps and crevices between the bricks.

The second layer will be more serious - 50 - 60 millimeters and its basis will be soil. It is the soil that is the main insulating layer, which will completely cover the entire surface of the wall and level it. It is applied to the surface in more than one layer, in some cases in two or three layers. This application is necessary to ensure that the soil, which has a fairly solid weight, does not separate from the surface and does not fall. The third layer in this method of thermal insulation will be the finishing layer, only 3 - 5 millimeters. It will completely level the surface.

And if you have not decided how to insulate a cold wall from the inside, then experts recommend using modern material - polyurethane foam. Such a coating will become one with your wall and will completely block the access of moisture to the “dew point”. This monolithic, seamless and solid coating attaches perfectly to any base, leaving no gaps or seams. This is an ideal solution for insulating semicircular or curved walls. Work on insulation with this material should only be entrusted to a specialist.

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Insulating a brick house from the inside: necessary tools and materials. Thermal insulation of ceilings, walls and floors

Thermal insulation of residential premises is one of the main stages in the construction of a country house; if it is neglected, you may encounter adverse consequences. For example, over time, costs associated with heating will increase, supporting structures will weaken, and building materials will begin to deform.

To avoid all this, you need to insulate the house, and you will learn how to do this correctly by reading our article.

A brick house without external insulation - then it is necessary to secure the thermal insulation material from the inside

Effective insulation from the inside of walls

This is not to say that thermal insulation brick facades does not bear fruit from the outside; on the contrary, it is considered the most practical and correct.

But there are several factors why insulating the walls of a brick house from the inside can be called the most relevant.

Firstly, this is due to the onset of cold weather. After all, you will agree that it is more comfortable and convenient to carry out work on the installation of thermal insulation materials in a warm room than to work in the cold.
Secondly, the volume of the working area is much smaller, which allows you to save on insulation and finishing materials.
Thirdly, a reduction in heat loss associated with the presence of thermal insulation material in close proximity to the heat source.

Dividing work into several stages

Since the insulation from the inside of a brick house will be done with your own hands, we will begin to describe the installation process with the acquisition of all the necessary tools and materials. (see also the article Insulation for brick walls: select, evaluate, install)

Stage one - tools and materials

Drill.
Jigsaw (can be replaced with a hacksaw for metal or wood).
Hammer.
A screwdriver (or, in extreme cases, a set of screwdrivers).
Building level ( laser device will be much more effective).
Hammer.
Furniture stapler.
Mallet.
Putty knife.
Container for adhesive solution (in case the thermal insulation material will be fixed with glue).
Roulette.
Fine grain sandpaper for processing the primer.
Rope (string).
Dry adhesive solution.
Polyurethane foam.
Wooden beam (for sheathing).
Primer mixture.
Insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, liquid plaster or expanded clay are better suited for interior decoration).
Finishing material (wallpaper, plaster, paint, drywall).

Note! Much of the above can be crossed out, for example, if you decide to cover the walls with wallpaper on top of foam plastic, you can do without timber and stick them directly onto the primed surface.

The choice of materials depends on various factors, where price can become decisive. In terms of insulating qualities, those proposed by us are practically no different; the only difference is the cost and complexity of fixation. To get acquainted with each of them, we will choose a different material for each element of the room: polystyrene foam for the walls, mineral wool for the ceiling, expanded clay for the floor. (see also the article Expanded clay brick: specifics of production and use)

Stage two - ceiling insulation

This section will describe the instructions for preparing and insulating the ceiling in a brick house:

The first step is to prepare the surface: seal cracks, remove mold and mildew.
Install beacons around the perimeter of the room using a laser level to find a horizontal plane.
Attach wooden blocks (50x50 mm) to the wall and using a hammer drill, drill through holes in them so that there are small recesses in the wall for dowels.
Secure the bars around the perimeter of the room.
Stretch the string from one wall to another in 2-3 places to create straight lines (sagging is unacceptable).
Place the beams under the twine and secure them to the ceiling using various pads, the main thing is to achieve the most even surface possible.

For drywall it is better to use a galvanized metal profile, it is more durable and reliable

For your information! The distance between the beams should not be more than 50-60 cm, depending on the width of the rolled mineral wool.

Remove the rope.
Unpack the rolled mineral wool insulation.
Measure the length of the ceiling with a tape measure and cut off the required amount of material.
Dilute the dry adhesive mixture with water in a container (a metal bucket will do).
Using a spatula, apply the solution to the back of the insulating material. small quantities(along the perimeter and in several places in the center).
Press the insulation against the ceiling, hold it a little so that the glue sets.

It is better to take denser rolls, there is less chance that the material will settle

Cut drywall sheets.
Using wood screws and a screwdriver, secure the gypsum board to wooden beams, covering the thermal insulation material.
Dilute primer mixture with water and using a spatula, cover all joints and fastening points.

Now the surface is ready for final finishing; it can be whitewashed, plastered, painted, or wallpapered.

Stage three - wall insulation

Insulation of walls from the inside of a brick house begins like this:

The working surface is cleaned of dirt and dust, cracks, chips, and crumbled cement mortar are repaired.
Wooden blocks, measured to the building level, are mounted at the corners of the wall.
The string is stretched between them at the bottom and at the top so that the bars can be placed under the rope.
Vertical posts are attached according to width polystyrene foam boards.
Using a furniture stapler, waterproofing material is fixed to the bars. It is not stretched in a straight line, but with a girth of all elements.

As you can see in the photo, the water-repellent film is attached not only to vertical surfaces, but also to horizontal ones

The foam is cut with a hacksaw.
Using a drill and pop nails, secure the Styrofoam sheets between the vertical studs.
Now insulate all seams and joints of the material using polyurethane foam.

Don’t be afraid to apply excess foam; it can be easily cut off when it hardens with a regular stationery knife.

Note! You can use masking tape or any other adhesive tape to eliminate all sorts of gaps.

It is best to treat building bricks, which represent the walls of a house, with a primer before starting insulation work. This will increase the service life of the thermal insulation material, protect against the spread of fungal organisms and increase the strength of the surface.

As for finishing work, you can also use drywall and cover it with wallpaper or paint, or apply plaster directly to the surface of the insulation. In this case, you do not need a wooden sheathing; the insulating material is attached without any gaps. The complexity of this method is the need to level the wall, a labor-intensive and time-consuming process.

You can level the walls using ordinary cement-sand mortar

Stage four - insulate the floor

Now let's look at the option of floor insulation using expanded clay:

Surface preparation is an important stage; you should carefully insulate the floor around the perimeter of the room using various materials: plaster, sealant or cement mortar.
The next step is to install wooden logs in increments of 50-60 cm.

Important! Wood must be treated with antiseptics to increase its service life.

Using a furniture stapler, a waterproofing film is laid down to prevent moisture from getting on the insulation.
Expanded clay is poured between the logs to the very top.

This is what a floor insulated with expanded clay looks like

Everything on top is covered with boards or plywood.

Completion of floor insulation - stele flooring. It can be linoleum, laminate, parquet or ceramic tiles.

Remember! The main thing in thermal insulation of the floor is to eliminate all possible sources of cold penetration: cracks, holes, joints of walls and floors.

If you want to make a podium, raise part of the room, you can use double sand-lime brick M 150, it is quite strong and reliable, plus, on top of everything, it is quite inexpensive.

Features of insulation

The choice of materials should be made according to weather conditions, specific to your region. In some places it is enough to insulate only the walls and foundation with cheap polystyrene foam, but in others thermal insulation is required not only from the inside, but also from the outside.

It is advisable to fix heat-reflecting material on top of the insulation

Insulating seams and joints will greatly reduce heat loss. There are special foil tapes that not only prevent heat from leaving the room, but also effectively reflect it.

Adhesive tape with a foil surface goes well with foil-based insulation

Insulation interior walls brick house should be made only after all materials have been processed. If fungal deposits appear, they must be removed immediately, trying to cover as large an area as possible.

Conclusion

As you can see, insulating a brick house yourself is not that difficult, you don’t need any special tools for this, everything can be rented from hardware store. To simplify and save money, simply refuse materials such as drywall or expanded clay and opt for cheap polystyrene foam.

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Brick is a material that retains heat well. But this is often not enough, especially in regions with harsh winters. Therefore, it is recommended to additionally insulate the walls. Although the protective layer takes up some area, many homeowners prefer to insulate a brick wall from the inside with mineral wool or other material.

It is not uncommon to see mold and mildew on the walls inside your home. You can fight it, but it is practically useless; after some time it appears again. The reason is that cold air entering from outside collides with heated air. The point of contact is the surface of the wall where condensation collects, creating dampness. This is the most favorable environment for mold, therefore, by eliminating the accumulation of moisture, you eliminate the fungus.

It is advisable to additionally insulate brick walls.

Types of materials

As a rule, insulating brick walls from the inside is done with your own hands using inexpensive, accessible and effective materials. It is worth considering in more detail what to insulate and how to insulate it in order to create a reliable barrier to cold and moisture.

Mineral wool

High-quality internal insulation.

One of the most popular materials due to its excellent characteristics and natural origin. It is called cotton wool because it is produced in the form of mats consisting of fibers obtained by processing basalt. That's why it is also called stone wool.

It has an affordable price, long service life and very low thermal conductivity. It blocks not only the cold, but also extraneous noise, as a result of which the house will not only be warm, but also quiet. Perfectly transportable and easy to stow.

It insulates not only walls, but also floors, under-roof and attic spaces.

Before insulating a brick wall with cotton wool, it is necessary to plaster it, leveling out the unevenness.
Then the waterproofing film is attached. It will prevent the insulation from becoming damp and will keep it dry.
Then a frame made of wooden slats. The pitch between the slats is taken from the size of the mats minus 1-2 cm (for a tight fit of the material).
The mineral wool is tightly driven into the sectors.
Upon completion of the insulation work, the top is covered with a second layer of film, this time for vapor barrier. Now moisture from inside the room will not penetrate inside.
Next, you can finally finish the walls. It is most convenient to use drywall, attaching the sheets to the frame slats. The seams are carefully puttied and dried, then the walls are finished to your liking.

Foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam

The photo shows wall insulation with foam plastic.

Synthetic materials that fully meet all safety requirements. Eco-friendly, lightweight, cheap and easy to use. You can be calm in fire safety, since the foam is impregnated special composition, promoting self-extinguishing. When wet, the material does not absorb, but repels moisture due to its closed cellular structure.

It is also convenient because it does not require a frame to attach it to the walls.

Therefore, if you refuse lathing, the walls must first be well leveled and plastered. This is necessary because building brick it often creates unevenness in the masonry, the foam will be difficult to attach, and moisture will accumulate in the voids between it and the wall.
A waterproof film is attached to the leveled walls.
Special glue is applied to it and foam sheets are laid, pressing well and joining tightly. Moreover, the glue is applied not to the material, but specifically to the walls.
Next, a vapor barrier membrane or film is installed on the finished surface.
The joints on it are sealed with adhesive tape.
After all the work done, you can finally decorate the room.

Polyurethane foam

Insulation using polyurethane foam.

Very comfortable material, since it is applied using a special apparatus to the wall in the form of a foam layer.
It adheres perfectly to almost any surface; there is no need to specially prepare walls for it.
Creates a monolithic layer, and the thickness of the layer can be varied as desired.
Its advantages are that lathing and preliminary plastering are desirable, but not required.
It is applied in a very short time, hardens in a matter of hours, which significantly reduces repair time.
There will be no dust or debris during work either, and this is also a plus for the process and the material.
If a frame is made, the foam is leveled after application, then a vapor barrier and finishing coating are attached to the sheathing.

Insulating plaster

Warming mixture.

Not the most heat-saving material, but quite effective in many cases. The composition usually includes foam particles bonded together with cement or a similar composition. The advantage is that you can make a not very thick layer, saving space in the room. (see also the article External and internal decorative plaster to look like brick)

Note! Although the instructions warn that drying is required between coats, many people ignore this advice. As a result, the plaster floats, creating an uneven surface.

A mounting grid glued to the surface will help reduce this to a minimum.

Many people believe that a brick house should only be insulated from the outside. But this is not always and not possible everywhere. Moreover, if you are the owner of not a private cottage, but an apartment. Therefore, in this case, internal insulation is performed.

Naturally, the insulation layer takes up quite a significant portion of the space. For example, a layer of 5 cm in a room with an area of 4x5 meters takes up an entire square meter. For many, this is an unaffordable luxury. (See also the article How to plaster brick walls inside a house - it’s still the same lime, but there are nuances)

But, even if the base of your house is double silicate brick 150 m, you should not assume that it will be warm and dry enough inside. The only way out is that, if possible, use either very thin materials, or completely abandon the interior and do only the exterior finishing.

Conclusion

By insulating your walls, you will get rid of mold and mildew.

By choosing a material with the lowest thermal conductivity and carefully considering the work process, you will save on space. Housing that is thoroughly insulated from the outside will no longer require too thick a layer on the inside.

In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

klademkirpich.ru

How to insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside

How to insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside is not an idle question - insulation of a brick house is carried out for two reasons: to save energy costs for heating the home and to ensure a comfortable indoor temperature for living. Today we will talk about the main features of some methods of thermal insulation, which make it possible to increase the efficiency of the activities carried out several times.

Features of effective thermal insulation

There are several aspects to the effectiveness of thermal insulation measures:

Brick, and therefore the walls of a house made from this building material, themselves have good properties in terms of heat transfer resistance.
A brick house is good opportunity high high-quality insulation even at the construction stage (empty space is left inside the masonry, which is filled with a heat insulator, in particular, mineral wool-based panels).
External insulation of a brick house by cladding is possible using vapor-permeable insulation or by using foam materials. For better efficiency When choosing the first method, it is recommended to install a ventilated facade, which will ensure the removal of vapors from the masonry.
The fourth and final measure is the method of internal thermal insulation. Here, too, it is permissible to use several types of thermal insulation - everything depends specifically on each individual case and the preferences of the home owner.

Undoubtedly, in order for thermal insulation to be carried out at the highest level, insulation must be carried out comprehensively: it is necessary to reduce heat loss not only through wall surfaces, but also the ceiling, windows and even the foundation. But since all other measures have already been described by us in previous articles, this time we will write specifically about how to properly insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside.

Plaster as a decorative heat insulator

Plastering is perhaps the cheapest method of insulation, but at the same time, it is also the most labor-intensive.

The first stage is applying primer

First, you need to prepare the surfaces for the process: if the room has previously been renovated, we clean the old plaster and other existing layers until the masonry is visible. It is recommended to vacuum the brick to completely clean the surface of dust.

Now 5 mm slats are mounted on the base (they will create the necessary gap between the wall and the mesh) and the mesh itself is attached.

Stage two - applying plaster

After the mesh is fixed, it’s time to apply a layer of insulating plaster: it’s better if you choose an option with a low thermal conductivity. The insulator must be applied in several layers:

10mm spray (must be applied to damp brickwork). The consistency of the solution should resemble sour cream;
several leveling layers, the total thickness of which should not exceed 5 cm (applied only after the spray has dried, the consistency is thicker);
4-centimeter covering (due to the high cost of warm plaster, when insulating a brick house, this layer is sometimes made with a heat-insulating mixture). The main feature of the final stage is the ideal evenness of the surface.

Polymer materials – effective thermal insulation

To insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside, you need to choose the right building material and a polymer insulator in this case is an excellent choice. The technology, as in the previous method, has two main stages - preparatory measures and installation with finishing.

Preliminary preparation

Again, first of all, the surface of the insulated wall must be thoroughly cleaned of wallpaper, old plaster and dust. After this, the brick is treated with an antibacterial substance and primer. If the surface has too noticeable unevenness, it is recommended to apply leveling plaster.

Helpful hint: Sometimes it may be necessary to install sheathing (if the thermal insulation layer will be covered with plasterboard). Minimize the use of metal brackets, as the material conducts heat easily.

It is best to mount the sheathing bars with dowels in plastic containers. Having leveled the sheathing, you can proceed to the next stage - installation of polymer panels.

Installation of insulator and final finishing

How difficult the installation process will be depends on what kind of insulation you have chosen for the brick walls inside. For example, in order to glue foam panels, you will need cement-based glue. This mixture will ensure maximum adhesion. Each manufacturer has its own recommendations for diluting glue, so always strictly follow the instructions on the packaging.

And we will move on to the installation process:

Apply glue to the insulated surface with a spatula (make sure that all irregularities are filled with it, if they have not been eliminated previously);
It is necessary to apply the adhesive mixture to the polystyrene foam board along the perimeter, not forgetting to put a “fat dot” in the center of the sheet;
When using sheathing with glue, you can save money, since the insulator will be fixed frame beams;
The slabs are mounted horizontally, with maximum adjustment to each other. But if the installation technology is frameless, do not forget to move the seams - in a checkerboard pattern.
The joints formed between the panels can be sealed either with scraps of thermal insulation or with polyurethane foam.

Depending on whether the sheathing was installed or not, the final stage may look like this:

The walls are sheathed with wooden clapboard or plasterboard sheets;
Installation in progress plaster mesh on top of the heat-insulating layer, then level the surfaces with a spatula.

Regardless of which insulation was chosen for the brick walls inside the structure, one thing is important: with the onset of winter and cold weather, you can almost immediately evaluate the effectiveness of the measures taken.

teploizolyaciya-info.ru

From this article you will learn:

Why do you need to insulate a brick house?
What to consider when insulating a brick house from the inside
How to insulate a brick house from the inside with mineral wool
How to insulate a brick house from the inside with polystyrene foam
How to insulate a brick house from the inside with warm plaster
How to insulate a brick house from the inside with your own hands using polystyrene foam

Brick is a traditional material for the construction of buildings in Moscow, which can be used for decades even in difficult climatic conditions. The thermal insulation characteristics of brick walls depend on the number of masonry rows. The reason for freezing of wall structures may be their insufficient thickness or violation construction technologies during the construction of a building. The solution to this problem is to install thermal insulation on the walls. In this article we will look at how to insulate a brick house from the inside. You will find out what modern materials it is better to use for thermal insulation of brick walls and how installation work is performed.

When is it necessary to insulate a brick house?

A certain amount of heat and moisture is constantly released in our apartments and houses. These processes are associated with human life and occur continuously. Thermal energy is released during the cooking process, during the operation of household appliances, computer equipment, and so on. During wet cleaning, during daily hygiene procedures, when boiling water and during other actions, the level of humidity in the premises increases. Moreover, the higher the air temperature, the better it retains water.

If the walls are insufficiently insulated, condensation forms on their surface when the moist air cools. Moisture settling on the walls provokes the appearance of mold and mildew, the spores of which pose a threat to human health. They penetrate the respiratory system, which causes asthma attacks or leads to allergic reactions. In addition to being harmful to health, mold and mildew contribute to the destruction of the materials from which wall structures are built and spoil the finish.

Insulating the walls of a brick house will help prevent such problems. Regardless of which thermal insulation option is chosen - internal or external, you need to take a responsible approach to its implementation. With internal insulation, brick walls will not be in direct contact with the warm air of the room, so it is possible for them to freeze to the point of contact with thermal insulation material.

In this case, the effect of insulation will be minimal. A completely opposite result can be obtained by placing thermal insulation material externally, but in practice there are situations when such a solution will be impossible.

The need to insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside arises in the following cases:

The presence of a ban by regional authorities on changing the architecture of the facade of a building (ancient monuments, buildings on central streets, etc.);
On the outer part of the wall there is expansion joint;
A wall structure separates the technical room, elevator shaft or other objects where there is no access for installing thermal insulation;
The design documentation for the construction of the house provides for the installation of thermal insulation from the inside.

How will the insulation of a brick house from the inside affect performance characteristics façade structures? How will the microclimate inside the building change after this? Answers to these questions must be obtained before work begins. In other words, if insulating walls from the inside remains the only option for their thermal insulation, you need to carefully approach the choice of thermal insulation materials, strictly follow the technology and execution procedure installation work.

Nuances of insulating a brick house from the inside

To properly insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside with your own hands, let’s figure out what the thermal insulation of a building depends on. For the right choice thermal insulation materials according to their characteristics, it is necessary to consider some physical processes associated with insulation.

The term “insulation” means a change in the characteristics of building structures in relation to thermal conductivity (the ability to conduct thermal energy). High thermal conductivity indicators indicate that you have a bad insulator and you should not use it to insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside and outside too. To perform such work, materials with low thermal conductivity should be used.

As you know, building bricks are made by firing clay, which conducts heat well. A brick building without insulation heats up and cools down as quickly as the surrounding air. For example, it can be noted that such a popular material for low-rise construction as shell rock (comparable to the characteristics of a cauldron) conducts heat 8 times worse than brick, and polystyrene foam used to insulate houses from the inside is 27 times worse. In addition, baked clay has a porous structure and absorbs moisture well, which under certain conditions begins to actively evaporate.

The evaporation of moisture is accompanied by a decrease in temperature on the surface of the object on which this process occurs. Thus, a brick house, which in itself is not warm enough, becomes a refrigerator when moisture evaporates. Using this property, you can cool a brick dacha (without insulation) in hot weather by opening basement. Damp air from the basement, rising upward, will fill the brick with moisture from the inside, which will then evaporate outside. This process is similar to the operation of a conventional air conditioner.

How does insulation work? The material used to insulate walls from the inside makes it difficult for air to move freely. Immobilized air acts as a barrier to the flow of thermal energy. This principle underlies the design of a thermos and modern double-glazed windows for window structures. An even more effective protection against heat loss will be an air gap enclosed between the walls of a special substance. And the greater the number of such layers with partitions, the higher they will be thermal insulation characteristics material. This feature must be taken into account when choosing insulation.

Insulating a brick house from the inside helps shift the dew point to the internal boundaries of the load-bearing structures. The dew point refers to the conditional location of the place where moisture condenses from the warm air that is inside the building. It is necessary that such a point is not inside the wall structure, but as close as possible to its outer part, in any case, further than the middle.

This condition is satisfied by the thermal insulation of a brick house from the inside, which takes the form of an additional wall located with an air gap or close to the existing wall structure. Of course, such a solution will reduce the usable area interior spaces, which will be especially felt in a small apartment.

How to choose materials for insulating a brick house from the inside

To ensure a normal microclimate and optimal humidity in the room, good ventilation is needed. It has been noticed that it is easy to breathe in brick houses. This is explained by the high vapor permeability of the brick (namely, the porous structure of the material). At the same time, so that moisture does not collect under the insulation layer on the wall surface, but leaves the room without hindrance, the main rule must be followed - vapor permeability should increase towards the outside of the wall structure.

In other words, when insulating a brick house from the inside, you cannot use heat insulators that allow steam to pass through better than brick. Otherwise, condensation will settle on building structures. For example, covering a freezing brick wall structure with plasterboard will lead to dampness in the house during the cold season.

When insulating a brick house from the inside, you should take into account the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and its vapor permeability characteristics. There are three ways to prevent possible contact of a brick wall with moist air:

There are also other options for choosing brick wall insulation for installation from inside the house:

Foamed polyethylene, covered with aluminum foil. Thermal insulation foil creates additional strength and serves as a heat-reflecting screen. Installing penofol from the inside of a house built from foam blocks allows you to save up to 97% of the thermal energy produced by heating equipment. Penofol is glued to the walls from the inside without the use of auxiliary waterproofing (it is not susceptible to getting wet). In certain cases, such material can be used as an additional heat insulator when insulating a brick house from the inside with mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Sotoplast- an inexpensive and aesthetically attractive material, but it insulates very poorly. The fact is that honeycomb is a honeycomb of paper that is rolled between plastic sheets. In this case, there are too few partitions to create a reliable barrier to the passage of heat.

The simplest method, which some “masters” recommend, involves using Chipboard (chipboard). This material is not very effective as a heat insulator, but still provides a minimal effect. The thermal conductivity coefficient of chipboard is about 0.15, which is completely insufficient. Therefore, we can say that its use does not bring the desired result. Even if you have a large amount of this material lying around, it is better to use it for other purposes.

Arbolit- a marketing ploy aimed, rather, at deceiving the consumer than at solving the problems of insulating a brick house from the inside. It is made from reed, waste paper, reeds, sawdust and straw. This composition is bound with cement - and voila: the wood concrete is ready. It should be noted that behind the beautiful name there is a useless material for insulation.

Fibrolite- is also included in the category of ineffective materials for home insulation. It consists of cement mixture, wood shingles and magnesium, supplied in the form of durable slabs with low weight. Fiberboard as a building material has good characteristics. Its boards are resistant to moisture, do not rot or burn (they only smolder), but it is quite expensive, and its thermal conductivity coefficient is not much better than that of particle board. It ranges from 0.09 to 0.1.

Ecowool is shredded paper sprayed onto wall structures. This material has good characteristics for solving problems of insulating a brick house, but it will not last long. Spray it with outside on the walls of the house, after which the facade is finished with siding or other material. This spraying retains its thermal insulation characteristics only until the ecowool gets wet. At the same time, such material takes tens of times longer to dry than it takes to be saturated with water. With questionable performance characteristics, ecowool works at the level of high-quality insulation. Immediately after its application, it has a very good thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.04, but after five years this figure will increase to 0.08, and then it will grow even faster. In addition, when using ecowool to insulate a brick house, keep in mind that mice and other rodents love it.

Mipora- insulation with a complex chemical composition. This material is based on urea-formaldehyde resin with glycerin and a large number of various additives that provide strength and other performance characteristics. Mipora consumers can be attracted by its affordable price, but the real benefit appears only with large volumes of insulation. The main disadvantage of this material is its composition. To insulate a brick house from the inside, it is better to choose a heat insulator that is less hazardous to health.

Glass wool, basalt or ceramic wool- related materials by origin and characteristics. They differ from mineral wool in their higher resistance to moisture. These insulation materials do not absorb water well and dry very quickly. But they also have their drawbacks. After a couple of decades they will disintegrate. This process is accompanied by the release of glass dust, therefore, in order to protect the residents of the house, a thick film must be laid over the insulation.

When planning to insulate a brick house from the inside, you need not only to take into account the characteristics of the heat insulator, but also to choose the right installation technology. Almost all installation options can be done independently. Special devices and devices will be necessary only when insulating walls using the technology of spraying polyurethane foam on their surface.

Before purchasing body insulation materials, it is worth considering several factors:

insulation can be of 2 types: for external and for internal use (materials of these types may have very different characteristics);
coefficient of thermal conductivity;
insulation density (this indicator, together with the thermal conductivity coefficient, affects the weight and thickness of the thermal insulation layer);
the material for insulation from the inside must be completely safe for people.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside with mineral wool

The features of mineral wool as an insulator for wall insulation include:

Manufacturers of materials for insulating the walls of a house from the inside produce mineral wool in the form of rigid or elastic slabs. In the first case, the material has a density from 80 to 120 kg/m3, and in the second from 35 to 120 kg/m3. The structure of rigid slabs includes ventilation grooves, which increase the thermal insulation characteristics.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene as a modern thermal insulation material has a number of advantages, which include good thermal insulation properties, low weight and strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is classified as fireproof materials. Insulating a brick house from the inside can be done with its help in the same way as when using mineral wool. It should be taken into account that the sheathing ensures the formation of cold bridges, which contribute to the formation of condensation.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside using extruded polystyrene foam is carried out as follows:

The surface of the wall structure must be cleaned, leveled with a thin layer of plaster and primed.
Using polyurethane foam or a special adhesive composition for polystyrene foam, slabs of foamed polymer are glued to the surface of the wall. Individual insulation elements are placed with a shift of 1/2 the width. This will help avoid long vertical seams.
The joints of the polymer boards must be filled with polyurethane foam, after which the excess has hardened and the excess must be cut off.

The optimal finishing option after such insulation involves gluing a reinforcing mesh with further plastering of the wall surfaces for painting or wallpapering. You can also use the option of finishing the walls with plasterboard. To do this, profile sections about 100 mm long are secured using “fungi” dowels, but in this case the integrity of the thermal insulation is compromised.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside with warm plaster

Using plaster mixtures, insulate scrap bricks from the inside - not an easy task. This option is the most effective in terms of preserving free space in the premises of the house. Plaster is applied to walls to insulate them in layers.

The initial layer is called spray. It is applied with a liquid mixture, which qualitatively fills all irregularities and defects on the surface of wall structures. After this, a primer is applied in the form of a thick solution. The formation of this layer occurs in stages. Its final thickness should be about 6 mm. For the final layer, liquid cement mortar, glue or other compounds are used. The finishing layer serves to final level out unevenness and prepare the wall surface for facing work.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick house from the inside using polystyrene foam

Stage 1. Selecting Tools

For high-quality insulation of a brick house from the inside with polystyrene foam, you will need a certain set of tools. The time spent on selecting such a kit will be returned by minimizing downtime during installation.

You will need:

The list of equipment for insulating a brick house from the inside with polystyrene foam (or polystyrene foam) is not very large, since this technology does not provide frame elements or finishing panels.

Stage 2. Material selection

In addition to the foam itself, other materials will be needed to perform installation work. The complete list is as follows:

Stage 3. Preparing for insulation

Let's consider the issue of preparing to insulate a brick house from the inside:

On this preparatory stage finished, and you can move on to the main work on insulating a brick house from the inside.

Stage 4. Main works

Installation of insulation - not very good hard work, but it is necessary to strictly follow the technology of its implementation and the sequence of operations. Violation of the recommended procedure may aggravate the process of condensation formation.

An air gap should not be allowed to form between the surface of the brick wall and the insulation. Such a gap will become a place for condensation to form, which will subsequently lead to the appearance of wet corners, mold and fungal formations. The further procedure is as follows:

This is how insulation of a brick house with polystyrene foam is done from the inside. Let us note once again that this option is used only in cases where it is not possible to insulate the outside.

Which is better: internal or external insulation of a brick house

As we already know, insulation of buildings can be done from the outside and from the inside. If we make a detailed analysis of these options, then from a physical point of view it turns out that only installation of insulation with outside can be called insulation without footnotes and amendments.

The reason for cold walls in a brick house is the lack of heat to warm them due to large heat losses. When insulated from the outside, the wall is protected from outside air, which reduces the leakage of thermal energy.

In this case, by heating the inner surface of the wall structure, the possibility of moisture condensation is eliminated, since the dew point is moved outside the wall. Based on this, we can say that external insulation walls of a brick house effectively solves the problem of retaining heat and preventing dampness of building structures.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside modern methods provides a slightly different effect. Thermal insulation material applied from the inside protects it from the warm air in the building. As a result, the wall becomes even colder, since it is freely cooled by outside air. Moist warm air from the interior, under the influence of partial pressure, will pass through a layer of thermal insulation material, and its contact with cold wall will lead to condensation. As a result of the processes described here, the wall becomes wet, which, in parallel with freezing, causes the destruction of the wall structure.

Based on the above, we can come to the conclusion that insulating a brick house from the inside only leads to insulation of the walls from contact with warm internal air. The pitfall of this solution is that the moisture accumulating between the thermal insulation material and the cold wall will be invisible to visual observation. It may seem that the goal has been achieved, but over time, negative aspects may appear that accompany insulating walls from the inside.

Despite the negative aspects, internal insulation is quite common. The main reasons for this are the simplicity of the technology and the ability to perform all the work at any time of the year with your own hands, even without much experience. If you have already decided to insulate from the inside, we recommend choosing a material that is as impervious to moist air as possible. Such heat insulators include expanded polystyrene (EPS). The use of this material will minimize the problem of steam and condensation by preventing the wall from coming into contact with moist, warm air.

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Insulating a brick house from the inside has a number of disadvantages compared to insulating the outer surface of the walls. Therefore, when deciding to take such a step, you must understand that internal insulation is much less effective than external insulation, and you should not count on special comfort in the harsh winter. In addition, serious internal insulation will reduce the size of the house from the inside - at least 10 cm along each wall. After completing the insulation work, it will be necessary to carry out interior finishing of the walls.

When insulating walls from the inside, do not forget about vapor barrier; all insulation materials are afraid of water.

The advantage of internal insulation is its cost - lower than the cost of external insulation. In addition, the house retains its external architectural appearance.

Sometimes insulation from the inside is the only possible option - for example, in the case of a cold wall in a brick high-rise building.

When starting internal insulation of the walls of a brick house, you should be guided by the principle of increasing the vapor permeability of the material to the outside.

When choosing a material for insulating a brick wall from the inside, it is necessary to take into account the “dew point”.

That is, it is necessary to choose insulation with a lower vapor permeability than brick. This is necessary so that moisture from the air inside the house does not penetrate into the masonry, thereby increasing its freezing. On walls damp from condensation under the insulation, fungus and mold quickly grow, and this not only destroys the house, but also negatively affects the health of its inhabitants.

Therefore, before it is plastered and coated with special antiseptic and antifungal solutions.

It is also necessary to organize good ventilation in the house, be it special ventilation holes with access to the shaft or simply regular ventilation.

You need to decide why exactly you intend from the inside - the reason for this is year-round accommodation or just a comfortable stay in bad weather or off-season. This determines what type of insulation it makes sense to choose.

Let's look at the most popular types of insulation and the features of their installation from inside the house.

Features of penofol

Scheme of insulation with penofol, foil-coated on both sides.

This is a reflective multi-layer insulating material consisting of a base (foamed polyethylene of varying thicknesses from 3 to 10 mm) and construction foil. If you want to insulate a brick house used only at positive temperatures (for example, a dacha), penofol can be chosen as independent insulation. In addition, penofol is used as an additional insulation plus a vapor barrier when using mineral wool. Penofol comes in three types: “A” - with one-sided foil (for walls), “B” - with double-sided foil (for interfloor partitions) and “C” - with one-sided foil and a self-adhesive layer. It must be remembered that aluminum is a good conductor of electricity, and before you insulate the walls, you need to insulate the wiring well. The advantage of this material is the minimal loss of internal space, since insulation with standard 4 mm thick penofol is equal to an eight-centimeter layer of mineral wool with a vapor barrier film.

Required materials: penofol, aluminum adhesive tape, 20 mm thick wooden blocks for sheathing, wood/plasterboard screws, plasterboard or lining.

Penofol is attached end-to-end, the joint is secured with tape.

Necessary equipment: knife, construction stapler, saw for bars, hammer drill with a drill suitable for self-tapping screws.

We attach a sheathing of wooden blocks to the inside wall of the house in such a way that an air layer of 20 mm is maintained between the foam foam and the brick;
Using a construction stapler, we attach the penofol foil layer to the sheathing inside the room end-to-end, and glue the joints with aluminum adhesive tape;
we install a second sheathing of two-centimeter bars on top of the foam foam;
We attach plasterboard or clapboard to the sheathing. In the case of drywall, we finish the external finishing - we putty the seams, paint the wall or cover it with wallpaper.

Sometimes penofol is attached directly to the wall with glue or double-sided tape. This simplifies the work, but makes the insulation less effective. It is also possible to glue wallpaper directly onto penofol, but the wall becomes “soft” and dents remain on it.

Advantages of expanded polystyrene

Scheme of insulating a brick wall from the inside with polystyrene foam.

In other words, this is the well-known foam plastic. Easy to install, lightweight and budget option, available to anyone who wants to insulate their home from the inside. For greater fire resistance and less fragility, we recommend choosing extruded polystyrene foam. Choose the thickness and density of the sheets depending on the insulation purposes.

Required materials: polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, adhesive for polystyrene foam, mounting disc dowels, “fungi”, metal profile for plasterboard, plasterboard, self-tapping screws for plasterboard.

Necessary equipment: a knife, metal scissors, a wide spatula-comb for applying glue and a small handy spatula, a bucket for diluting glue, metal scissors, a hammer drill with a drill suitable for “fungi” and self-tapping screws, a nozzle for mixing glue or just a rod.

Foam plastic is affordable, easy to install and quite durable. The disadvantage of this material is that it takes up a lot of space.

dilute the glue for polystyrene foam according to the instructions (we choose carefully, since a number of paints and nitro paints destroy the foam);
apply glue to the walls with a spatula;
glue the sheets of polystyrene foam, tap them carefully to avoid air “pockets”;
we blow out loose seams between the sheets with polyurethane foam;
cut the profile into “crabs” 10 cm long;
we turn the pieces of the profile with the flat side to the foam, using “fungi” to attract them to the wall;
We attach profile sheathing to these “crabs”;
We attach plasterboard to the sheathing, then external finishing— we putty the seams, paint the walls or glue wallpaper.

It is not recommended to install the profile between sheets of expanded polystyrene directly on the wall, because in this case so-called “cold bridges” are formed, which do not so much cool the room as create conditions for the appearance of humidity and mold.

Application of mineral wool

Wall insulation scheme mineral wool, protected on both sides by vapor barrier.

Another budget and widespread type of insulation. The disadvantages of mineral wool include its high vapor permeability and carcinogenicity. Therefore, when insulating a house, it is necessary, firstly, to use a vapor barrier film, and secondly, when working with mineral wool, wear clothes with long sleeve, work with gloves and a respirator. To safely insulate a house from the inside, mineral wool must be covered with plasterboard, plywood, clapboard, etc.

Necessary materials: mineral wool in sheets or rolls, vapor barrier film (as an option - glassine, cellophane, penofol), metal profile for drywall (guide and rack), self-tapping screws for drywall, glue for vapor barrier type Delta, aluminum or acrylic adhesive tape.

Necessary equipment: knife, metal scissors, hammer drill, level (ideally a laser).

To install mineral wool, you will definitely need lathing. It can be made from a metal profile or wooden blocks.

stick it on the wall vapor barrier film, seal the joints with adhesive tape;
Using a level, we place a metal profile frame along the walls; it should be spaced from the wall surface at a distance slightly less than the thickness of the mineral wool. The frame must be made as rigid as possible, the distance between the longitudinal profiles should be slightly less than the width of the sheet or roll of mineral wool;
we evenly fill the resulting distance between the wall and the frame with mineral wool, the insulation should lie tightly, but not be too compacted - it is not the fibers that retain heat, but the air between them;
We attach a layer of vapor barrier or penofol on top, glue the joints;
We install the drywall, then the exterior finishing.

In addition to the walls, it makes sense to insulate the floor and ceiling.

To insulate the floor, logs made of timber are attached to the existing surface, between them either polystyrene foam is laid, followed by foaming of the seams, or mineral wool is tightly driven in. Afterwards, we recommend laying the floor with a vapor barrier film so that moisture from the house does not get into the “pie” of insulation and timber. Then floor boards and thick plywood are laid, which can be painted, or linoleum or laminate can be laid on top.

The ceiling can be insulated in the same way as the walls. Having completed all this work, you will get a room that retains heat well.