If you have started or are planning to start installing doors, then you should think through every step of your work in advance. So, important element doors are additional. If earlier, in Soviet times, this was not necessary, now technology has changed. In this article we will find out why extensions are needed and how to install extensions on interior doors done with your own hands.
Extras - why are they needed?
To begin with, let us briefly recall how it was before. Production of all building materials carried out one at a time state standard. For example, there were standards for bricks, blocks, reinforced concrete slabs, etc. There were also standards for the thickness of the plaster layer. Thanks to this, carpentry workshops had a specific wall thickness in the opening where the door or window would be installed. As a consequence, by setting door frame and there was no need to make any adjustments to the platband.
As for our time, the situation has completely changed. The production process of a number of building materials is carried out not according to an established standard, but based on the technical capabilities of a particular enterprise. What did this lead to? Now each enterprise’s bricks, blocks, etc. can have different thicknesses. As a result, the thickness of the wall in the door opening may be different in several cases. To hide a section of the wall after installing the door frame, they came up with door extensions.
What is dobor
Mostly door panels are made of MDF. But it is possible to produce them from natural wood. But in this case the price will be higher. By addition we mean an ordinary board that fits neatly with the doors. Modern manufacturers door frames are immediately provided with a special groove into which the extensions can be installed. As a result, this greatly simplifies Finishing work and allows you to beautifully decorate the doorway.
Varieties
Door extensions can be completely different:
- Ordinary.
- Telescopic.
- Combined.
By regular we mean a strip or board that is coated in the same tone as the door frame and the door leaf itself. Its width can reach up to 20 cm. If you have carpentry equipment, then you can make such a strip yourself.
By telescopic we mean a design reminiscent of appearance clapboard On one side, there is a special groove. On the opposite side there is a thorn. Due to this, it becomes possible to decorate a doorway of any width. The telescopic extension varies in width from 9 to 15 cm.
Well, the combined element, in addition to its main purpose, also serves as a platband. Using both the extension and the platband at the same time front door relevant when there is a need to increase the thickness of the opening. However, if the partition is significantly wide, then the combined strip will not help. That is, this is a corner that is directly attached to the door frame.
Installation methods
Do-it-yourself installation of interior door panels is shown in the video different ways. So, there are several methods:
- Due to the door frame.
- Installation on a manufactured frame.
- Fastening directly to the wall of the opening.
The easiest way is to install it in a groove on the door frame. In this case, liquid nails are used. This fastening material will be quite sufficient, since the door strip does not bear any mechanical loads. Another option is to use self-tapping screws.
So, regardless of the chosen method of installing extensions on interior doors, the sequence of all actions will be almost the same and it consists of the following steps:
- The dimensions of the extensions for interior doors are determined.
- Cut exactly to size.
- Installation of extensions on slopes.
- Measuring and cutting the top element.
- Installation top bar.
Necessary tool
Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors is done using a specific set of carpentry tools. Of course, depending on the circumstances, the set of tools may differ slightly, but you cannot do without the following equipment:
- Drill.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Screwdriver.
- Polyurethane foam.
- Hacksaw.
- Roulette.
- Pencil.
- Jigsaw.
- Square.
- Hammer, etc.
Now we invite you to consider several technologies for installing an interior door with your own hands different technologies. Step-by-step instruction will help you cope with all the work yourself.
Installation in groove
In this case, it is assumed that the door frame initially has special mounting grooves for installing the strip. This technology the simplest of all existing ones. So the whole process installation work boil down to the following steps:
- First, you need to use a tape measure to measure the distance from the installed door frame to the edge of the slope. With all this, it is necessary to take measurements along the length of the slope at several points. This will help you determine how strong the deviations are. It is very convenient to use a square for measurements.
- In addition to the width of the slope, you should also take into account the depth of the groove into which the plank will be installed. By adding these two amounts, you can determine the width of the required element.
- After this measurement, transfer it to the bar and use a jigsaw to make a cut along the workpiece.
- Next, the strip is inserted into the groove on the door frame.
- Carry out a similar operation on each side of the slope.
- The extensions in the groove must be placed on liquid nails or silicone sealant. It is better to use colorless silicone sealant.
- By laying the vertical panel, you will form the letter “P” in the opening. In this case, the top one is laid on top of the vertical slats. An angle of 90 degrees must be maintained in relation to the door frame.
- For temporary fixation, you can use adhesive tape. Use it to attach the bar to the box.
- All voids between the slope and the door panel should be filled polyurethane foam.
Important! But here important nuance. Use polyurethane foam on a special gun. This foam does not stick out much. Plus, its consumption is significantly less. If you use regular foam with a plastic tube, there is a high probability that the trim will tear out of the mounting groove.
- When the foam has completely dried, all residues are carefully cut off with a knife.
Installation without groove
How to attach the extensions to an interior door if there is no such groove? Let's consider the features of installing extensions on interior doors in this case. Let us immediately note that the process of installing extensions is somewhat more complicated, since it is difficult to draw the ideal line or contour of the opening. But despite this, achieving the desired result is quite possible.
So, the work process will look like this:
- It is necessary to take measurements from the box to the edge of the slope with a corner. Remember, measurements are taken in several places at once.
- Cut the planks to the appropriate size.
- Next, a frame is made from wooden blocks or aluminum plasterboard profile. The frame is installed strictly according to the level.
- The planks are fixed to the assembled frame assembly adhesive or self-tapping screws.
As a result, you will be able to achieve a flat surface.
Installation on metal doors
As a rule, the iron box is not very wide, so when installing iron doors You also can’t do without extras. These boxes do not have any grooves. Ideally, drywall can be used as add-ons. First you need to make a frame. You can use it as a basis wooden blocks. Drywall is fixed on top of them. The space between the gypsum board and the slope is filled with polyurethane foam.
Next, using liquid nails, the elements are glued to the drywall. Its surface is first primed for high-quality adhesion. Thus, the door extensions will have a reliable foundation. And considering that metal doors They are mainly installed at the entrance to the apartment; this method of installing the planks will completely eliminate heat losses on the slopes. The finishing touch There will be installation of platband.
If there are deviations in the opening
If the interior opening has deviations along vertical or horizontal lines, then a special method for installing interior doors with your own hands is required. So, what if the slope widens towards the outer edge? It is important to understand here that MDF, fiberboard, solid wood and other materials for additions cannot bend much, as they will crack. In this case, you can get out of the situation by installing a frame made of bars, plywood or drywall. That is, your task will be to achieve same size slope
The problem may also arise if the door frame installation technology is not followed, for example, there are vertical or horizontal distortions. In this case, it will not be possible to install the finish smoothly. The easiest way is to dismantle the box and reinstall it again.
Installation of telescopic extensions
Installation telescopic extensions for interior doors is very different from the installation of conventional doors. The difference comes down to the way the planks are connected to each other. So, from a telescopic assembly you will not be able to immediately assemble a slope of the required width. The assembly process is carried out in several passes. Otherwise, deformation of the surface may occur at the moment when the polyurethane foam polymerizes. The process comes down to this sequence:
- First, a rail is attached along the perimeter of the slope. The process of building up will take place on it.
- So, a telescopic extension for an interior door is being installed.
- The gap between it and the slope foams.
- Next, using a tenon/groove connection, the telescopic extension is increased.
- Each subsequent element is foamed separately.
Thus, by extension, a telescopic extension for interior doors is installed.
Installation simultaneously with the door frame
There is one more original solution- installation of extensions simultaneously with the installation of the door frame. In this case, the work looks like this:
- Place the door frame on a flat horizontal surface.
- The aspect ratios in angles and length are checked.
- If necessary, it is worth adding a quarter using a router. Remember, the depth of the quarter should match the size of the trim.
- WITH outside small pieces of plywood or drywall are installed around the entire perimeter of the box. Their width should be identical to the width of the future extension. These sections are fastened temporarily using small nails.
- Next, adjust the extensions exactly to size. At the same time, take measurements of the width of the wall in the opening and the door frame. Also determine the level of the wall. If there are deviations, then this factor must be taken into account.
- After this, you should apply liquid nails or any other sealant to the edge of the quarter.
- Next, the extensions are installed and the glue is expected to dry completely.
- After this, the installed temporary strips are carefully dismantled.
- Now you can put the door frame in its place.
Finally, the opening between the frame, the extensions and the slope wall is blown with foam.
Conclusion
So, here we have looked at all the features of installing interior doors with your own hands. As you can see, there are several technologies at once. If you do this work yourself, we advise you to choose the technology that is most accessible and understandable to you. Additionally, do-it-yourself installation of interior door panels in the video at the end of this article. In it you can learn about other nuances in this matter. Advice is provided by experts in this field. We hope that this article was useful to you and you were able to get a general idea of the types of door accessory technologies. Share your observations and experiences on how you handled the installation of trim on interior or exterior doors.
If there are no particular difficulties when installing interior doors (they are easy to choose by size), then with entrance doors it is somewhat different. The specificity of installing the block is that you will have to deal with the design of the top and side parts of the opening. The reason is the discrepancy between the thickness of the door frame beam and the similar parameter of the load-bearing wall.
The difference is sometimes significant. And if we add to this the need to level the base before finishing and eliminate significant defects in the slopes, then the repair will take a long time. Installing extensions on the front door allows you to get rid of many problems.
This is the name of the panels that organically “connect” the jamb with the cut of the wall, closing the gap between them. Decorative items You can either purchase (and a number of doors are equipped with such boards) or make them yourself. In any case, the rationality of this decision is obvious.
What benefits provide
- Interesting, original design opening. The range of boards is significant and color scheme(texture), and size. They vary within (mm): width - from 50 to 250, thickness - from 5 to 30.
- High speed of work. Installation of extensions is done quickly, and even a beginner in this field can do it.
- Partially increase sound and thermal insulation characteristics opening.
- They mask its irremovable defects.
- Protect slopes from damage and getting wet.
- At proper installation prevent distortions of the box due to temperature deformation and natural wear of the material.
Classification of additional strips
By location on slopes
- Vertical.
- Horizontal.
By material
- Tree.
- Metal.
By degree of protection
Accessories with or without lamination.
According to the specifics of installation
- Without protective edge. Such additions to entrance doors are the cheapest. But it is recommended to install them after additional processing of the edges. Otherwise, the gradual absorption of moisture initiates deformation and destruction of the material, if we're talking about about wood-based products.
- With protective edge. More reliable modification of panels. The difficulty is choosing the size. Any inaccuracy will lead to the need to adjust the fitting in place. This means that it will have to be cut off.
- Telescopic panels. They have docking tenons, grooves and are adjustable in width; The quality of the cladding and its durability are ensured.
Methods for installing extensions
Two methods are practiced. The choice of an acceptable one depends on the specifics of the room, the material of the wall and its condition.
Gluing the extensions
The simplest technology that does not require much time to implement. But it has significant disadvantages.
- Extras have correct geometry. Consequently, the surface on which they are attached must be as level as possible and not have differences in the height of individual sections, and this is not always possible or extremely difficult to achieve. Various techniques are used to eliminate minor panel distortions. But in this case, the manual cladding of the entrance opening becomes dramatically more complicated, and its strength decreases.
- Gluing the extensions eliminates the possibility of insulation and sound insulation. How important this is, you will have to determine for yourself.
Advice. For minor wall defects, it is advisable to use polyurethane foam as an adhesive. It will fill all the recesses, and after installing the extensions, it will ensure the evenness of the cladding and the reliability of its fixation. The large consumption of the product pays off in that finishing the entrance opening will not take much time, and the hallway will be free of dust and dirt.
Attaching extensions to the sheathing
The technology is familiar to everyone who has worked self-registration facade of the building, rooms with clapboards and other finishing panels and slabs. The nuance is that you need to select the material of the slats in relation to the additions. If they are metal, then the corresponding profile; for wood products - wooden blocks. The reason is the identity of the expansion coefficients; given their difference, warping of the cladding cannot be avoided in the future.
This technique allows you to place in cells load-bearing frame insulation, and before installing its slats, you can trim the wall with hydro- and sound insulation material. Many owners use foil-lined roll products (for example, penofol) for these purposes. For old buildings, houses made of reinforced concrete - good decision, which allows you to additionally insulate the opening in the area of the front door.
Features of installation of accessories
- It is advisable to use self-tapping screws to secure the panels. Nails are not recommended for several reasons.
- They easily split dry wood.
- The maintainability of the cladding is poor. If it is necessary to replace the accessory, there is a risk of damage to adjacent elements.
- When using polyurethane foam, the extensions must be secured with spacers. The composition tends to increase in volume, and this initiates curvature of the cladding. Gaps and differences in height form between the panels, and this cannot be eliminated; only dismantling the samples and everything from the very beginning (cleaning the base and then point by point).
- When decorating the entrance, designers recommend decorating the panels in a color different from the door; that is, make them slightly lighter or darker. This solution diversifies the interior of the hallway and effectively highlights the outline of the opening.
- Metal accessories for steel doors have no grooves. The procedure for installing them is specified in the manufacturer's instructions.
- Material. The best option- tree. The board is easy to work with (you only need household tools), and it is also inert to temperature changes. It’s more difficult with metal - it will have to be additionally decorated with a special film; It’s easier to purchase extras of the appropriate size. MDF options or other plates do not require tongue/groove connections (the strength is extremely low), and therefore it is better to abandon them.
- Dimensions. They are determined from the cut of the wall (plus the thickness of the cladding of the adjacent surface) to the frame of the front door; platbands are not taken into account.
- Product type. Boards with prepared grooves/tenons are more expensive, but these types of additions are easier to install, and the lining of the opening will be of the highest quality.
Further processing of the panels is done at personal discretion: impregnation, use of wood aging technologies, tinting with stain, applying a layer of varnish - there are plenty of options.
Accessories for entrance doors – perfect solution to decorate the opening. You just need to take into account that these decorative boards should be installed before installing the trim. To give stability to the cladding and increase the degree of sound and heat insulation, it is advisable to firmly fasten the panels to the frame. This solution eliminates drafts through the cracks; and they will appear over time due to deformation (shrinkage). Plus, the same foam gradually loses its properties (dries out), and soft insulation materials, although with different intensity, they absorb moisture.
Interior doors are installed on one of last stages repair. In addition to installation, it is of great importance here right choice sizes and configuration of the door block. We offer an article on how to quickly, correctly and technologically install doors, platbands and slopes with your own hands.
Dimensions and types of door frames
Before arming yourself with a chisel and a screwdriver, let’s study the basic rules and regulations for installation. The door block must be installed in the opening freely, maintaining gaps sufficient to form a foam seam.
The thickness of the door assembly is determined by the width of the pillars. For standard gypsum plasterboard partitions and half-brick walls, the door is installed in a block 75 or 73 mm thick. In the openings of main walls, pillars with a width of 100 mm are used. Please note that in the first case, the doors are installed without slopes.
The standard width of door leaves with a height of 200 cm and more can range from 600 to 1000 mm, sizes change in increments of 100 mm. For doors with a height of 190 cm, the minimum leaf width is 550 mm, the maximum is 900 mm. We will start from the dimensions of the canvas to calculate required sizes opening.
The thickness of the MDF box stands can vary from 22 to 33 mm. Factory-made pillars made of laminated veneer lumber can have a thickness of up to 35 mm, and those produced in “garage” workshops can have a thickness of up to 50 mm. Ultimately, what matters is the actual size of the narrowest part—the fake part. To calculate the horizontal dimensions of the opening, add to the width door leaf two thicknesses of the stand in the narrow recessed part. The height of the opening depends on whether the door is installed with a threshold or flooring will be laid in a continuous contour. In the first case, we add two values of the thickness of the slats in the recessed part to the height of the canvas, in the second - one value plus an additional 15 mm.
But that's not all. For the door to move freely and close, a gap must be maintained between the leaf and the frame. For doors made of MDF or prefabricated panels, the gap is 3 mm on each side of the rebate. For doors made of solid wood, the gap is 4-7 mm, depending on the quality of the wood and the assembly of the product. As for technological gaps between the door block and the opening, it is recommended to maintain a value of 15-20 mm.
Preparing the opening
It is not enough to simply make sure that the opening width corresponds to what is required at any arbitrary point. The profile of the door frame must fit exactly into the opening in a strictly vertical position, so at least one side should be aligned vertically.
Expanding the opening is not a problem; this is done using cutting wheel and angle grinder or hammer drill. But sometimes the opening has to be reduced. To do this, you need to secure a block of appropriate thickness on one or both sides. Sometimes, to reduce the opening, a wood lining is installed on all three sides.
The door block is fastened to the walls using polyurethane foam, which means the surface of the edges of the opening must have high adhesion. In gypsum plasterboard partitions, openings are formed by the central shelves of rack profiles. It is enough to clean their surfaces from traces of building materials and lightly sand them. sandpaper. Openings in stone walls It is necessary to clean it from dust and dirt, then coat it once with a primer.
Assembly and installation of the door frame
The door frame is assembled from two side posts, an upper crossbar and, optionally, a lower crossbar that acts as a threshold. Fitting and fitting of parts should be carried out on a flat floor, with the stand parts facing towards you.
First, cuts are made on both side posts: the protruding strip is cut with a matching hacksaw with a distance from the edge equal to the full thickness of the pillar. This is done for the correct abutment of the profile bars in internal corners Lutki. When the cuts are made, a jumper is inserted between them. Its length should be equal to the width of the door leaf, plus the values of the gaps between the door and the frame on both sides.
The height of the door frame is the length of the door leaf with gaps on the top and bottom or only on the top side for installation with or without a threshold, respectively. This distance should be set aside when the box is assembled on the floor without fastening. According to the marked length, the stands are simply cut in a miter box at a right angle.
If a threshold is installed in the lower part, it is cut out longer than the upper crossbar by at least two values of the thickness of the pillars. If the upper jumper is installed between the posts, then the threshold is simply applied to the box from below. Naturally, you need to remember to make undercuts for the central protruding strip. If, as a result, the threshold protrudes slightly beyond the dimensions of the door frame, it is not necessary to trim off the excess.
To fasten the parts of the box together, you can use non-heated anodized screws or furniture confirmations. The connection is made in the corners of the box: first, the fastened parts must be set at 90°, and then drill one pilot hole with a diameter equal to the rod of the self-tapping screw or confirmat without taking into account the thread, displacing it from the center by 15-20 mm. When the first fastening element is screwed in, the right angle is checked again, after which the second fastener is screwed in, also offset from the center, but in reverse side. If the box is installed without a threshold, its bottom is temporarily fastened wooden plank. The plank should be screwed into those places that will subsequently be hidden under the trim or additional trim.
Installing the box in the opening takes 10-15 minutes. At first door block it is fixed using spacers - wedges cut from polystyrene foam. You need two wedges for each vertical part of the box and one under the top crossbar. A foamed polyethylene tape is rolled out under the threshold of the box. Due to the soft fixation on foam wedges, the box can be freely adjusted. On the side into which the door will open, the frame should be positioned flush with the plane of the wall finishing. This is done using long rule, attached to the wall with a slight projection into the opening. Special attention you need to pay attention to the corners of the box, applying the rule obliquely along two adjacent sections of the wall.
Once the door is aligned, it is temporarily secured to the ends of the opening. If the stands have an overhead strip with a secret groove, the fastening is done through this groove - with a regular self-tapping screw all the way through. When installing doors in gypsum plasterboard partitions, this is the only option for invisible fastening. If the door block will have slopes, first, mounting or U-shaped plates for the plasterboard profile are screwed to the back side of the pillars, through which the frame is fixed in the opening.
The value of such fastening is purely nominal; it is necessary so that the block does not move due to foam expansion. When the door is secured, all gaps between the block and the opening are filled with polyurethane foam to half or 2/3 of the seam volume. It is important that the foam circuit is continuous. Further work on the door can be continued after 1.5-2 hours.
Hinges and other accessories
Practice shows that it is better to hang the door before the frame is fixed in the opening. Firstly, the door serves as a spacer element that does not allow the foam to squeeze out the flexible pillars. It is only necessary to place 3 mm chipboard spacers between the door and the frame while the foam hardens. Secondly, the loot on the floor is simply easier to manipulate when inserting loops.
First, the hinges are cut into the door frame itself, retreating 20-25 cm from the upper and lower corners. The hinge must be positioned so that the cylinder is almost flush against the corner edge. Parts of the loops with pins are attached to the loot, which should be facing towards the top crossbar. The hinges are first attached as is, without insertion, each screwed with two screws. Next, the plates are outlined along the contour with a sectional knife; this is necessary to trim the veneer, so it is guaranteed not to be undermined during the process of sampling the material.
Next, you need to remove the loops and walk along the formed cut with a chisel, turning the blade towards the inside of the cut. The hem should be made 1-1.5 mm deeper than the thickness of the hinge plate. After this, sampling can be done in two ways. The first and optimal way is to remove the thickness of the plate manual router, not reaching the cutter 1-2 mm to the hem line, and then form the edges of the sample with a chisel. The second method is to apply an arbitrary number of notches to the surface with a chisel and use it to remove the material, periodically trying on the loop until the plate is recessed flush with the rest of the surface.
To install hinges on the door, you need to temporarily insert the blade into the hinge, checking that the gaps are even on all sides. Further sharp knife On the corner edge of the canvas, two marks are placed exactly in those places where the edges of the hinge plates adjoin the door. Now the door can be removed, placed on its edge, the hinges screwed on, circled around them with a knife, and then - by analogy with inserting hinges into a door. If single-sided insertion hinges are used, the marks should be placed with a pencil along the edges of the cylinder, and then simply screw the back part of the hinge without cutting out the groove.
Locks, latches and sealing brushes are easier to install on the door when hung. First, at the end of the door, using a feather drill, a groove is selected for internal mechanism lock or latch. The final shape of the groove must be given using a chisel. Next, the body is installed in the groove, the lock is temporarily secured with screws, after which the outer bar is traced along the contour with a knife. After sampling the material, the lock or latch body is finally installed; you first need to drill holes for the square pin.
Installation of slopes and platbands
The final phase of door installation begins - installation of the decorative frame. You should start by installing extensions to form slopes. The best way their fastening is done with “liquid nails” glue, the type of which is chosen in accordance with the material of the walls. The top plank is installed first: it must be cut exactly according to the shape of the upper edge of the opening, taking into account the angles of the slope. To secure the top panel, you need to apply a bead of glue about 5-7 mm thick on it in a zigzag and press it firmly, supporting it with a long strip.
Next comes the installation of side panels. To accurately observe the upper slope of the slope, you need to attach a square to the door frame and mark the height difference that forms the upper extension. The width of the board is cut so that its edge protrudes above the plane of the wall by about 1 mm. It is important to remember that to the width of the trim you need to add approximately 2/3 of the depth of the groove into which the trimmed edge of the board is inserted.
The fastening of the platbands is also done using polymer glue. First, all parts must be cut to the size of the opening and the pattern of joining corners. There are two options here: the planks are either connected with an oblique cut at 45°, or first vertical trims with a straight end are attached, and then a horizontal element is inserted between them, the edges of which are made with an undercut of oblique slopes. For reliable pressing while the glue is fixing, it is recommended to cash both sides at the same time, tightening them with clamps.
Installed in the house beautiful doors They act as an entrance to the room, they are also entrusted with an aesthetic mission, helping the designer in creating a unique style in the interior of the room.
Additions, or need to be installed if the width of the box structure differs from the thickness of the wall where it is installed. In addition to the main function, to hide unsightly unevenness or to remove slopes that quickly get dirty out of sight, the extensions strengthen installed structure doors and hold it, protecting it from possible warping.
How to install extensions on interior doors yourself and is this even possible in principle? The answer is yes, it is possible, and most importantly, they can be installed both on existing doors and when installing new ones.
Extras - what types exist?
Every person should always have a choice, this statement also applies to extras, which can be done in two ways:
- on your own;
- in industrial conditions.
For making boards yourself, the following types of boards are most suitable:
- flat;
- edged;
- tongue and groove.
If the walls are damp or are distinguished by their considerable thickness the best view The material to be used for completing the installation yourself is waterproof plywood, which, due to its properties, will not be subject to deformation in the form of delamination, cracks and deformation from excess moisture.
Do with my own hands anything is always commendable, but accessories made in industrial conditions are not only convenient, but also much more economical. Manufacturers make additional boards from MDF, which is processed decorative coating, the length of the finished boards ranges from 80 to 550 millimeters.
The standard procedure for installing extensions involves attaching them to a special recess, which is located inside the new structure. If the extensions need to be installed on a door that is already installed, then attached extensions, which are adjacent to the frame, or underlay extensions, which are slipped under the installed door, are perfect.
What to do if the door is installed askew
There are situations when installing additional material will not be advisable and should not be done. And such a situation is a skewed jamb design, in which the level of irregularity of the top bar exceeds five percent. As a rule, the design of the box cannot be skewed, but if deviations can still be observed, this indicates a violation of the production technology, which led to defects in the design.
Necessary tools and necessary accessories
It is clear that to install the extension you will need certain tools, which include:
- manual milling machine for working with wood;
- hand circular saw;
- clamp with soft covering.
If the clamp saw is securely attached to the surface of the stool, with the disc facing up, you will get a completely functional circular saw, which is necessary when installing extensions. A soft covering for a clamp can be made using several layers of heat-shrinkable tubing, each of which must be heated in turn by bringing it to the fire and cooled.
Supplies for installing extensions you will need:
- stable stools - 3 pieces, it is important that their height is the same;
- five wooden planks measuring 30x30 millimeters;
- ten wedges;
- plasterboard, if it is not possible to purchase it, packaging plywood will also do.
Installing a door panel - basic calculations
At the first stage, it is necessary to correctly perform the calculations, for which doorway we determine the plane that will be the base, in Figure 5 plane “B”. The plane “B” will be the base, its mark on the floor is marked with a pencil. In order to correctly perform all calculations, the Pythagorean triangle method is used, shown in Figure 5:
- the width of the doorway, half of it, is taken as three basic lengths (ZI), that is, if the width of the doorway is 60 centimeters, then the indicator ZI will be 10 centimeters (60:2:3);
- using a cord, from each corner of the opening we measure the distance to point “O” and make marks 5l. The distance from the middle of the opening, point “O” in Figure 5, to the base point “B” should be 4l, only in this way the line between points “O” and “B” will be perpendicular to the surface of the opening.
Walls with a slope, how to install extensions
Using a slope in calculations, as a rule, it turns out that the walls are not far from ideal and cannot boast of their perfectly flat surface; on the contrary, they have either a negative or positive slope, what to do in such a situation. Faced with uneven walls, you can try to use plaster to level the slope, but the result will be positive only if the slope is no more than five millimeters. If the slope is more than five millimeters, then it is necessary to use an additional wedge, which is performed during the process of sawing the extensions.
Foam treatment
After the additions are installed, before plastering work is carried out, the cracks must be filled with foam. The main thing is not to forget that when hardening, polyurethane foam tends to expand significantly and increase in volume. Therefore, in order to prevent deformation of the jamb due to the pressure exerted by the foam, the wedges that act as a straightener should not be removed until the foam has completely dried.
Most in a simple way installing the extensions is their installation, carried out simultaneously with the installation of the door and its frame. Let's look at the installation procedure:
- on the prepared stools, the structure of the finished door jamb, which must be installed so that its inner side is located on top;
- using diagonals, we align the corners, the size of which should be the same, for this you can temporarily nail the bar;
- We cover the perimeter of the box structure with strips of plywood, which can be attached using nails, or drywall; for fastening, you should use self-tapping screws; the material should protrude;
- The top bar is installed clearly between the side ones. After that, we apply glue on the edge, which is suitable for wood, until the glue sets, we insert the extensions. After this, you just have to wait until the glue dries;
- the temporarily nailed strip can now be removed, and the door frame structure can be installed in the opening;
- using wooden spacers, the box is leveled, for which we use a plumb line to check verticality;
- We achieve a horizontal position of the top strip on the door using wedges, which after installation we treat with polyurethane foam;
- we treat the wall surface by applying a layer of plaster;
- Finally, we install the skirting boards;
- We attach the platbands with glue.
In order to facilitate the installation of the extensions, you need to make sure in advance that you have several wedges on hand, no larger than 4 millimeters in size. After preliminary preparation Before installation is completed, you must do the following:
- knock off a layer of plaster and check for the presence of a quarter in the structure, if a quarter is installed, in this case you only need to select the correct size of the extension;
- shorten the material to the required size;
- on inner side apply glue and install in place;
- using wedges we level the material, leveling its height;
- We insert the planks one by one into the prepared opening width;
- We fix the extensions using wedges;
- Apply a layer of glue to the extensions and install;
- We use polyurethane foam to process cracks;
- apply a layer of plaster.
Interior doors are installed.
Video instructions on how to install extensions on interior doors
01.08.2014
When choosing interior doors, we try to make our choice based not only on practicality; their aesthetic side is also an obligatory fact. With the help of a properly selected door, you can add a special, unique style to the interior of the room.
Installation of extensions on interior doors is required when there is a difference between the width of the wall and the width of the door frame. Door panels perform the following functions:
- closing irregularities;
- closing slopes;
- strengthening the main door structure;
- preventing the door frame from warping.
A completely logical question arises about how to install an extension on an interior door. And it is so possible to install extensions for interior doors with your own hands. Of course it is possible, and installation is carried out both on interior doors that have already been installed for a long time, and on doors whose installation is only planned.
Existing types of add-ons
Depending on your personal abilities and preferences, you can install extensions on interior doors with your own hands or give preference to those that are installed during the production process.
The most suitable material for additions can be used different kinds boards
Much when choosing a material depends on the type of room where the extensions for interior doors will actually be installed. If this is a room where there is a high level of air humidity, then the most the best option the doorway will be finished with extensions and platbands,
made of waterproof plywood. This material has the ability to maintain its stability and structure as much as possible, despite humidity.
Attention! If for a room with high humidity If an ordinary board is chosen, there will be a risk of cracks and deformations.
Modern man strives for perfection and therefore many try to do everything with their own hands. But as practice shows, making accessories with your own hands is not entirely advisable, since accessories made in industrial conditions are much more profitable in terms of price. In the industrial process, MDV is taken as the basis. She is passing the preliminary decorative treatment, and the size of ready-made extensions for interior doors is 80 - 550 mm.
The simplest and most standard installation procedure is to connect the extension to an existing recess. It is located inside the structure. In the event that the question arises of how to attach the extensions to an already installed interior door, you can solve this problem by using attached or underlay extensions.
Door installation process
In order to carry out installation, you must have everything at hand necessary tools, namely:
- manual wood milling machine;
- hand-held circular saw;
- a clamp with a soft covering.
The clamp can be attached to any flat surface, such as a stool. In this case, the disk should be positioned upward. The result is a device that performs the function of a circular. Exactly circular saw will become the detail that is simply irreplaceable in the process of installing extensions on interior doors.
A heat-shrinkable tube is used as a material for the manufacture of sheathing on the clamp. It just needs to be made from several layers. Heat-shrinkable tubing requires heating in order for it to become the required form, this requires alternate heating of each layer and then cooling.
In addition to the tools, you need some auxiliary elements:
- stools of the same height, 3 pieces. For convenience, you need to choose only very stable stools;
- wooden slats with dimensions 30*30mm.
- wedges in the amount of 10 pieces.
- drywall or plywood.
Marking
At the doorway where the installation of the extensions will actually take place, it is necessary to first make a beating reference plane. Special marks are made on the floor using a pencil. In order to make the chop as correctly as possible, you should use the Pythagorean theorem. Using the following figure, let's try to understand the correctness of its use:
- We measure the bottom width of the opening and take half of it. The half taken is equal to 3 base lengths, that is, equal to 3:1. If the bottom width is 60 cm, and we take only half, that is, 30 centimeters, then one base length will be equal to 10 centimeters.
- At a distance of 51 centimeters from the existing corners, 2 notches are made. As a result, from the intersection point (O) to the middle (B) the distance is 41 centimeters. The resulting straight line OB is equally perpendicular to the plane of the doorway itself. It is from the resulting line that all measurements and calculations must be made.
Attention! If it is possible to use a laser base surface projector, there is no need to go through the above procedure.
What to do if the walls have a slope
It is quite possible that the walls have a slope. If the slope is no more than 5 mm, then this can be corrected using a layer of plaster distributed under the platband. If the indicator is higher, wedges will be needed.
Working with foam
After the procedure for installing the extensions on the interior doors is completed, you need to blow out all the cracks with foam. It is known that foam has the property of expanding when it hardens and, as a result, the joint can lead. In order to avoid this you need to:
The procedure for installing extensions simultaneously with the box
Installation of the door frame along with the extensions is done in the following sequence:
Door with straight slopes
To facilitate the installation of extensions on interior doors, it is necessary to first prepare about 20 plywood wedges with a thickness of about 4 mm. After the preparation process, you can begin installing the accessories:
Composite type accessories
If the walls are covered with MDF or other similar material, then the remaining pieces of material can be used as an extension for the frame doors. But if we consider this issue from a technological point of view, then, of course, this operation relates to a greater extent to the procedure of wall cladding and does not correspond much to the technology of installing extensions on the front door or interior door.
What to do if the door is installed askew
In some cases it is not rational to install additional material. This is exactly the case when skew occurs. door jamb. This means that the degree of non-compliance with the upper limit is greater than 5%. Often, distortion of the box structure occurs when the manufacturing technology was violated during the production process. Failure to comply with the technology resulted in defects.
Conclusion
Installing extensions on a door frame is not difficult. The only thing that is very important is to be as careful and attentive as possible. It is very important to take all measurements as accurately as possible and check the evenness using a plumb line. When everything is done, the interior door will be used for a long time and no problems will arise throughout the entire period.
We will learn how to take correct measurements when installing trims and trim on the front door and interior doors in the next video.
