This might be interesting. The ability to change the supply voltage of a soldering iron designed for 220 V, among other things, allows you to return to operation an already burnt-out one. And use it in the future, for example, with a switching power supply from an imported TV, which at the output gives exactly half of the network one. Bringing these two products together results in an intermediate option between a soldering iron with a regulator and a full-fledged one. soldering station. Any radio amateur can do this. I’ll show you how to do this using the example of changing the supply voltage of a Chinese-made soldering iron, which was not trustworthy for use without modification.
Disassembling the soldering iron
To disassemble the soldering iron, it was necessary to completely unscrew two screws connecting the protective casing to the heating element and holding the tip, and three self-tapping screws securing the working part to the handle. Remove the insulation from the wires and unscrew the connecting twists.
Mica with soldering iron spiral
Inside protective casing a heating element. That's what they have to do. It is necessary to change the amount of wound nichrome wire - change the resistance of the heating element. Now it is 1800 Ohms, 400 Ohms are needed. Why exactly so much? Currently working with a UPS, the soldering iron has a resistance of 347 Ohms, its power is from 19 to 28 W, there is a desire to make the second one less powerful, so I added Ohms.
Soldering iron rewind
Winding a soldering iron tip
The tip is reinserted into the heater, clamped with screws and into the drill chuck. If you disassemble and unwind excess nichrome while holding the heating element in your hands, then everything will be much more complicated. The tie wire is removed.
The released fiberglass and mica wrappers are removed. There is a slot in the mica on the side of the tip into which a conductor is inserted, running from the nichrome to the power cable - therefore, the weakened mica wrapper is removed from it rather than unwound. Mica is a very fragile material. The end wound to the conductor is disconnected nichrome wire. Its thickness is just over 4 microns.
Nichrome must be wound onto something round, perfect option- spool for thread. Unscrewed it, rewinded it, and so on until the end. There is no need to disconnect the second end of the nichrome wire.
Soldering iron wire resistance
Now you need to wind a length of 400 Ohms, and in centimeters it will be approximately 70 (the total length of nichrome wire 300 cm is 1800 Ohms, hence 400 Ohms will be 66.66 cm). At a length of 70 cm, a latch (clothespin) is placed and in the hanging position of the coil, slightly guiding with your fingers, winding is carried out at intervals ensuring its termination at the first conductor. The number of attempts is not limited, the main thing is not to tear the nichrome. At the end of winding, a control resistance measurement is required.
As soon as I managed to reel required quantities nichrome, cut the wire with an allowance of 1 - 2 cm and wind it to the conductor. We put on the mica winding, passing the conductor into the slot in it and press it against it (naturally on top of it).
We install a fiberglass winding on top and, compacting it by pressing, wind the binding wire. A heating element designed for power supply voltage of 85 - 106 V is assembled.
Soldering iron assembly
Since the working part was previously attached to the handle with incomprehensibly clumsy and short screws, they had to be replaced. To do this, holes for new screws were deepened in the attachment points on the handle.
Before connecting the power cable with the conductors going to the nichrome heater, a plastic clamp was installed and adjusted on it.
The casing of the heating element ends with a kind of cooling radiator, through holes in it and is attached to the handle. To increase the cooling effect, the gap between it and the handle was increased using metal washers.
Tests
Soldering iron current consumption 190 mA
The UPS with which the soldering iron will work at the output under load gives from 85 to 106 V. Current consumption is 190 mA, this is at the minimum voltage. Power 16 W.
Soldering iron current consumption 240 mA
At maximum voltage, current consumption is 260 mA. Power 26 W. The desired has been received.
Heating rate
Finally, a test for heating duration. Up to 257 degrees in 2 minutes 20 seconds. An excellent result, if you take into account that from a 225 V network it heated up to 250 degrees in 5 and a half minutes.
Table. Dependence of the resistance of the heating element on the power and voltage of the soldering iron
And here is a table that will help you navigate the required resistance of the heating element, depending on the desired power and the available supply voltage. Author - Babay iz Barnaula.
I decided to rewind a burnt out 40-watt soldering iron. And why not, if all the materials are there?
But rewound to 220 V. burned out the first time it was turned on due to the emitted fumes at a voltage of 150 V. Because when rewinding I used fiberglass adhesive tape. Therefore, it is necessary to use insulating materials that are free from flammable substances or anneal them.
And first turn it on at low voltages, increasing it to 220 V. as the smoke stops. For example, for a soldering iron 40W. through light bulbs 15,25,40 W.
To suffer again, reeling thin wire 220V winding. I didn't feel like it anymore.
I took nichrome from a hair dryer and wrapped two layers. It turned out to be 30V, 1.1A.
Then I got an electronic transformer for 12V, which might be suitable
To power the soldering iron in one layer, but the soldering iron was already ready.
Basic materials for rewinding:
Mica. Taken from a large mica capacitor type KSO13.
Nichrome. From a hair dryer.
Step-down transformer and graphite rod from a battery for welding nichrome with copper wire.
Asbestos cord for thermal insulation.
Auto sealant black. Withstands temperatures up to 300 degrees.
Metal braid. For small soldering irons, braid from connecting hoses for toilets, boilers, etc. may be suitable... But it is very soft, maybe in two layers.
For 40W. A stiffer braid is better. From hoses high pressure, brake hoses, etc.
MGTF wire. To rewind the transformer and for the soldering iron, I used it with an outer insulation diameter of 0.7 mm. For welding two pieces of wire with a diameter of 2 mm insulation to nichrome.
We wrap mica around the winding area and secure it with several turns of thin thread.
Before winding, we weld one section with nichrome (if you don’t have experience, read it on the Internet, then practice), isolate the junction and insert the handles into the tube. I fix the first turn by winding the next two turns around it. Don’t forget that after the inserted leads you need space to attach the outer braid, about 1 cm. and from the end the same way. I fix the last turn by wrapping it several times with thin nichrome. We insert the second piece of thick wire into the handle, twist it tightly with nichrome, weld it, and insulate it. The leads of the wire sections from the handle must be firmly fixed so as not to accidentally pull out the turns. At least firmly insert a piece of wood with glue into the handle.
Now you can connect to a step-down transformer or to a power supply of appropriate power with an adjustable output voltage for testing normal operation heating winding and approximately determining the voltage and current at which it will operate.
After cooling, we wrap a layer of mica and then asbestos cord. The cord, unlike sheet cord, does not crumble and lies more tightly. Anyone concerned about asbestos can look for a replacement. Some kind of fiberglass cord or material.
Check that the tightened braid fits onto the cord. Lubricate with auto sealant and put on the braid. Using the same nichrome, we wrap the edge of the braid on the side of the handle, after which we stretch, compact the braid and wrap it to the tube from the front. We unravel and cut off the unnecessary part of the braid with wire cutters. While the sealant hardens, we assemble a soft cord that will not melt from the soldering iron tip. Since there was a wire in fluoroplastic insulation with an insulation diameter of approximately 0.7 mm, I used it. I took 6 wires, braided them - it turned out to be a soft, strong cable. We solder it to the leads from the soldering iron, and attach the solders to the handle with electrical tape. This makes it easy to re-solder the cable if it breaks near the handle.
Lightweight and small-sized electronic transformers for halogen lamps have given rise to their use to power low-voltage soldering irons.
I got it at 160W. with broken 12-amp transistors 13009. Since such power is unnecessary, I replaced them with the existing 4-amp 13005. Instead of 8 turns of the busbar for 12 V, I wound 45 turns with a tap from 39. The installed switch connects the soldering iron
To 39 turns - for soldering small items without overheating or to 45 turns. The output transformer is installed on the board using silicone with a gap of about 1mm to the board. If necessary, excess turns can be easily removed. If you install the soldering iron power switch inside the case, you may have to install the transformer by moving it to one side. An LED indicator with a diode and a resistor is installed in the center of the output. transformer, connecting it to the last turns.
The power plug can be attached to the case by cutting it off from similar devices, for example, wall power supplies, cell phone chargers. You can also attach a plug on a short cable, it is more convenient to connect to tees.
When turned on for the first time, the electronic transformer did not work. Low load. Since the load is constant and short-circuit. It’s not foreseen that without bothering with alterations to the OS voltage, I added a turn to the existing turn of the current winding on a small ring, and it worked.
What is written here is the general direction. Everyone will have their own path depending on the components they have.
As is known, the only available high-temperature insulating material with high thermal conductivity is mica. An ordinary collet pencil “helped” me to solve the problem of attaching mica to the surface of the mandrel. So, all I had to do was choose the appropriate pencil size and remove the tube with the slot from it.
In order not to crush the thin-walled tube when installing it in the drill chuck, I selected a steel rod of a suitable diameter and sealed the edge of the tube with it.
Now you can safely wind the heating element coil.
I think you have already guessed that if you insert the edge of a mica gasket into the slot of this tube, then, when wound, the turns of wire will reliably fix the gasket. After winding, the heating element can be easily removed from the tube by moving along the slot.
This is what a finished heating element made by yourself looks like. You can see all the intricacies of this technology in the attached video.
The press machine is installed on a wooden base 8.
Notes: 1. For any processing of plastics, and especially after cutting them (drilling, turning, etc.), it is necessary to remove residual stresses by boiling in water (more than an hour). Otherwise, the part may crack in the processing areas.
and split.
2. When using stockings made of nylon, nylon, etc. as raw materials, all seams must be removed, the toe and heel cut off, since
they are made from other materials.
3. When using nylon fabrics, you cannot use those whose base is made of cotton or other thread.
To obtain various decorative edgings, it is necessary to make dies 9 the required configuration. The die is screwed onto the sprue. When extruded, the mass acquires the profile of a die hole; upon exiting the die, the mass must be cooled in
It should be noted that with the help of this press machine (using dies) it is also possible to produce insulating gaskets from polyvinyl chloride (insulating edgings for metal-glass television tubes, etc.). The softening temperature of polyvinyl chloride is 80-100 ° C; when using other materials not listed here, to determine the softening temperature, you must use the data in Table 17, remembering that the temperatures of the onset of softening are given there.
Mica. Mica is a non-flammable, layered mineral with high dielectric parameters.
There are two varieties of natural mica: musk-
VNT - with high electrical data and phlogopit - with low electrical data. The first is used mainly in radio engineering, the second in electrical engineering.
A number of materials based on mica are also used as thermal and electrical insulating materials. Ground mica - micanite dust - serves as a filler in fire-resistant putties.
Varieties of mica and some materials based on it are given in table. 20.
Table 20
The most common grades of mica are:
CO-mica exemplary (muscavit);
SF filter mica (muscavit);
VLF low-frequency mica (muscavit);
High-frequency microwave mica (muscavit);
SZ - protective mica (muscavite and hard phlogopite).
Note. When manufacturing and repairing various equipment, and especially soldering irons, it is sometimes necessary to bend mica with small bending radii. To prevent mica from crumbling and breaking, it must first be calcined to a light yellow color. Mica becomes more elastic and bends without cracking or breaking.
Rubber. Rubber is an elastic insulating material with low electrical properties. Conventional rubber produced by the industry has three varieties: soft, medium hard and hard. In addition to indicating hardness, sometimes rubber has the following letters: A - low swelling in gasoline;
B - swelling in gasoline. Most shock absorbers and shock-absorbing pads are made by amateur radio operators.
They are made of rubber, although recently some plastics have begun to be used for these purposes.
Soft sheet rubber is used to make belts for amateur tape recorders.
Microporous rubber is used for various sound-absorbing coatings (for example, when creating high-quality sound units).
Paper. Paper is the cheapest insulating material, has low electrical data, but after appropriate processing (impregnation) it can compete with the best insulating materials. It is mainly used in the manufacture of permanent capacitors and transformer windings.
Cardboard is used to make insulating gaskets, transformer coil frames, etc.
Data for some papers and cardboards are given in table. 21.
Table 21
Fabrics. Widely used for decorative finishing of finished equipment. In combination with insulating varnishes and resins, they form the basis of some insulating materials.
Data for some fabric products are given in table. 22. Table 22
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Glass. The main material for various scales, protective glasses for instruments, the manufacture of optics, mirrors, etc. is glass. The main types of glass processing are cutting, drilling and gluing.
Cutting glass with a diamond or glass cutter is simple and doesn't require much explanation. But sometimes it becomes necessary to cut glass of complex configurations. To do this, a pattern is applied to the glass. the desired shape, but so that one side of this pattern falls on the edge of the workpiece." At this point, make a cut with a triangular personal file. With a red-hot sharp object (a device for burning wood with full heat or a soldering iron for brazing, described in one of the subsequent sections) slowly trace the drawn outline. A crack will continuously form under the hot object, visible to the naked eye. Next, the excess glass is broken off in small sections (preferably in water). Finished part boil in water for an hour.
If desired, the edges can be filed with a small abrasive stone.
Holes in glass. Holes in glass can be made using one of the following methods.
1st method. The hole in the glass is drilled with a regular drill without much pressure. The glass must lie on a hard and level surface. Drilling should only be done through a jig (a piece of metal sheet 5-8 mm with a hole equal to the diameter of the thickness of the drill), pressed tightly against the glass.
When drilling, continuously moisten the site of the future hole with the following composition (in weight parts):
Camphor - 8;
turpentine - 12;
2nd method. Drilling is done with a flat drill (sharpened with a spatula) also through a jig. The drill should rotate alternately in one direction or another.
the other side.
The emulsion in this case is silicate glue (liquid glass); The emulsion changes every time it becomes cloudy.
3rd joint venture The drill can be a copper (or worse, brass) tube of suitable diameter; conductor
is also necessary here.
A few drops of silicate glue with emery powder are applied to the site of the future hole (beam-
more corundum No. 000-240); When drilling, this mixture is continuously renewed.
Holes in relatively thick glass (more than 4 mm) are drilled copper tube, slightly widened at the end (with a center punch or other suitable tool), which facilitates the final drilling process and reduces the likelihood of damage to the glass.
Optical glass gluing.
Optical glass is glued special adhesives high transparency, such as fir balm and balsam.
Before gluing, glass is thoroughly degreased with dichloroethane or acetone and wipe with clean chamois. Glue is applied to both parts to be glued, after which they are clamped in a clamp. In this case, you need to make sure that there are no air bubbles at the gluing site.
Glass is glued to other materials using various adhesives, cements and putties, the recipes for which are given below,
IV. GLUES, PASTES, PUTTY, VARNISHES. THINNERS.
Adhesives are widely used in amateur radio practice. The use of the appropriate adhesive in combination with the correct technology allows you to simply and reliably connect metal with glass, rubber, glue plastic, porcelain and much more. Below are the most common adhesives.
Starch paste - this is paper glue; his
starch - 60-80 g/l;
borax - 25 g/l.
Starch is dissolved in */5 parts of water (cold), stirred thoroughly, brewed with the rest of the water (boiling water) and, finally, borax is added to the paste. Flour paste-this is an adhesive for paper and cardboard;
its composition:
Flour - 200 g/l;
wood glue (dry) - 50 g/l.
Flour is kneaded cold water until dough-like and filled with hot wood glue (temperature 80° C). Be sure to strain the glue.
Binding glue. Vao part (from the total volume of glue) of glycerin is added to the diluted hot wood glue (directly in a water bath).
Gum arabic glue for paper and cardboard is produced from gum (solidified juice) of some fruits
Wheat flour is kneaded with cold water until a batter forms. Aluminum alum is dissolved in the remaining water (heated to 50° C); The dough is placed into the resulting solution and boiled until a transparent syrupy mass is formed.
Dextrin glue- a common glue for paper. The recipe is simple: dextrin at the rate of 400 g/l is diluted with cold water.
Glue for cardboard. In 100 c. parts of water dissolve 9 c. parts of office (silicate) glue, 6 c. tsp potato flour and 1 c. tsp sugar. The resulting slurry must be heated until a uniform mass is obtained.
Photo glue. Photo glue composition:
starch - 60 g/l;
aluminum alum - 40 g/l;
chalk (tooth powder) - 40 g/l;
dry blue - 1 g/l.
Starch is poured 10 c. h. warm water, stir and add 30 V. hours of boiling water. Separately, dissolve alum in warm (remaining) water, pour the solution into the paste and stir well. After half an hour, chalk paste (tooth powder and blue) is added and mixed thoroughly.
Store the glue in a closed glass container. Glue for gluing fabric, leatherette and leather to wood. The composition of the adhesive is given in parts by weight:
wheat flour - 40;
rosin - 3;
aluminum alum - 1.5;
All dry ingredients are mixed, poured with water and stirred. The resulting doughy mass is placed on low heat and stirred until the mass begins to thicken.
Gluing is done with hot glue.
Casein glue. Glues paper, wood, fabrics. leather and ceramics. Casein (powder) is diluted in cold water at the rate of 250 g/l, adding water in small portions and continuously stirring the adhesive mass.
Glue composition:
wood glue - 200 g/l;
sugar -200 g/l;
slaked lime - 70 G(l.
Dissolve sugar in water, then lime and heat over low heat until a clear liquid is obtained. The resulting solution is filtered and dry wood glue is dipped into it. Within 24 hour The wood glue swells, and then it is dissolved in a glue maker.
In a closed glass container, the glue can be stored for a long time and does not lose its adhesive ability.
Glass glue. Dissolve gelatin in an equal amount (by weight) of a 5% solution of potassium dichromate (the solution is prepared in a darkened room). The resulting glue is insoluble in hot water. The parts are coated, tightened with a clamp (or tightly wrapped with thread) and placed at 5^-8 hour to the light.
Adhesives for glass and ceramics.
1. Casein dissolved in liquid glass (silicate glue) with the consistency of sour cream.
2. Gypsum mixed with egg white to the consistency of sour cream.
3. Plaster, soaked for a day. saturated solution of aluminum alum. After soaking, the gypsum is dried, ground and mixed with water until the consistency of sour cream. This glue glues ceramics well.
4. Dry finely ground chalk (tooth powder), diluted in liquid glass in the ratio G: 4.
Universal cement. In dentures it is used as follows; called “cement phosphate”; It glues ceramics very well and is not afraid of hot water.
Cement is diluted as follows. Pour into a glass container required quantity cement (powder) and fill with thinner. Mix everything thoroughly with a glass rod and immediately apply to previously degreased parts. The parts must be tightened with a clamp (or thread). Drying time 2 hour.
Leather adhesives.
1. Glue "Rapid"; its composition (in parts by weight):
celluloid -15;
acetone - 65;
solvent RDV (or No. 000) -20.
2. A solution of natural rubber (1-2 parts by weight) in carbon disulfide (10 parts by weight) with the addition of a small amount of turpentine.
5 L. A. Yerlykni 65
3. Carpentry glue(bone) with the addition of tannin until stretchy threads form. Rubber adhesives.
1. Natural rubber (1 part by weight), dissolved in solvent gasoline (Galosha gasoline) or in aviation gasoline B-15 century. h.).
2. High quality rubber adhesive; its composition is given in parts by weight):
carbon disulfide - 10;
gutta-percha - 1.3;
graphite - 10;
varnish No. 000 - 9.
Rubrax and bitumen No. 3 are melted and the remaining components are added to them. The resulting putty is thoroughly mixed. Glue the parts together with hot putty.
Rubrax putty consists of the following components (in parts by weight):
rubrax - 2;
varnish No. 000 - 2.5.
Rubrax is melted at a temperature of 120°C and chalk and varnish are added to it. Mix everything thoroughly. Glue with hot putty.
Paste for gluing glass to metal. This paste bonds glass to metal quite firmly. The liquid consistency of the paste allows you to glue large surfaces of these materials.
Paste composition (in parts by weight):
copper oxide - - 2;
emery powder No. 60-2;
liquid glass - 6.
All components are ground to form a homogeneous paste. The glued parts are heated to 100° C and maintained at this temperature for 2 hour, then cool to room temperature. After 12-14 hour the paste hardens completely.
Glass-to-metal putties. This type of putty is characterized by increased hardness of the glued seam, which can bear medium mechanical loads.
Below are two putty recipes (by weight).
1st recipe:
lead litharge - 2.5;
rosin - 3.5.
Mix thoroughly ground and dried ingredients and dilute with natural drying oil until the putty becomes thick.
2nd recipe:
lead litharge - 7;
manganese borate - 1;
rosin - 20.
Everything is ground, dried and mixed with natural drying oil until the putty becomes thick.
Paste for coating vitrified resistors.
When repairing vitrified resistances and especially when installing taps, it is necessary to restore the coating of the resistance, otherwise the life of the resistance is sharply reduced. You can restore the damaged resistance coating with a special paste (the recipe for which is given below).
Dried talc (6 parts by weight) is mixed with liquid glass(silicate glue), which is taken enough to get a mass of sour cream consistency (approximately 8-12 parts).
Damaged areas of the coating are coated with paste and dried at room temperature about an hour. Then the resistance is heated to 100-110° C and maintained at this temperature for 10-15 min.
Magnesite putty. This putty is used for gluing ceramic products and metal with ceramic parts. The glued seam can withstand heavy loads.
magnesium oxide -4;
porcelain flour - 2;
magnesium chloride solution (specific gravity 1.25) - 5.
Magnesium oxide is calcined for an hour at a temperature of 400-500 ° C. Porcelain flour is dried for 30 min at a temperature of 100-120 ° C. Magnesium chloride is dissolved in water at the rate of two parts of magnesium chloride to one part of water.
After this, magnesium oxide and porcelain flour are mixed, the resulting mixture is poured with a solution of magnesium chloride and kneaded until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
Apply the putty immediately after production. Complete drying time is two days.
Note. Porcelain flour can be obtained by heating pieces of old (broken) porcelain dishes and cool them in water, repeating this process several times.
Gletglycine putty. This putty (in application and quality of the seam) is similar to magnesite and is widely used in industry for connecting ceramic parts to each other and to metals.
Composition of putty (in parts by weight):
technical glycerin -1;
lead litharge - 8.
The litharge is dried for 2 hour at a temperature of 230-250 ° C, grind in a mortar and add glycerin to it in small doses (with stirring). Use the putty immediately after production. The drying time of the putty is one day.
Note. Lead litharge can be prepared from red lead. For this purpose at 100 G dry lead lead, you need to take 1 g of gas soot, mix everything thoroughly and calcinate at a temperature of 450-550 ° C for an hour.
Putty for filling cracks in iron and cast iron castings.
The composition of the putty (in kg):
iron filings - 1 ammonia - 0.02 slaked lime - 0.1 liquid glass - 0.1.
The dry components are mixed, poured with liquid glass and mixed thoroughly until
homogeneous mass. Apply the putty immediately after production.
Putty for strengthening iron reinforcement in stone.
Putty composition (in g):
iron filings - 100;
ammonia - 5;
table vinegar - 40-60.
Dilute the mixture of the first three (dry) components with table vinegar to the desired consistency; Use the resulting putty immediately.
Putty that prevents loosening of nuts. In industrial radio equipment, locking putty is widely used, which successfully replaces various types of locking washers.
Putty composition (in%):
nitroenamel DM-75;
talc - 25.
The putty is diluted to the desired consistency with acetone or RDV solvent.
§ 8. PAINTS, VARNISHES, ENAMELS, PRIMERS AND PUTTY
For metals, paints, varnishes and enamels serve as both anti-corrosion and decorative coatings.
Wood parts valuable species with a beautiful texture (color and pattern) are coated with transparent varnishes and polishes. Wood of less valuable species is sometimes coated with opaque (opaque) varnishes and paints.
Finishing wood with various clear coatings is discussed in Section V.
Primer. The painting of metals with varnishes and paints is preceded by a priming process.
Primer is practically no different from painting. The primer is applied to the surface of the part with medium-hard brushes (and very rarely with spray guns). After drying, the soil is leveled (sanded) using sandpaper No. 000-180.
It should be noted that a certain type of paint (varnish, enamel) corresponds to a certain primer. ^ Wrong combination primer and coating sometimes at - 1 leads to the paint (varnish, enamel) bubbling or crumbling after drying.
The appendix given at the end of the book lists a number of the most commonly used paints, varnishes and enamels. It also lists putties, primers and polishes, gives basic recommendations on liquefaction, drying mode, as well as the purpose of coatings and their properties.
Putty. The putty mixture is applied to the primed surface of the part using a spatula. Spatula - a flat spatula made of metal, wood or hard rubber.
If there are various irregularities on the surface of the part (cracks, chips, cavities, etc.), the putty in these places is applied with a slight excess (margin for shrinkage when the putty dries). The main layer of putty should not exceed 0.2 mm.
After drying, the putty is leveled with sandpaper No. 80-100, gradually reducing the grain of the sandpaper. It is good to level flat surfaces with a flat wooden block; Between the skin and the block it is necessary to lay a layer of fabric 2-3 thick mm.
Coloring. Painting is usually done in two layers. The second layer is applied with brush strokes perpendicular to the brush strokes when applying the first layer. Before applying the second layer, it is advisable to level the dried first layer of coating with sandpaper No. 000-180.
The tools for painting are most often soft brushes, but sometimes atomizers (sprayers) are also used. The latter are used when painting large parts with nitro paints.
The air pressure when painting parts with nitro paints should be 1-2.5 atm. For thicker paint consistencies, air pressure should reach 3-6 atm.
