How to make scaffolding with your own hands. DIY scaffolding: a reliable assistant for repair work. Prices for poles, profile pipes

During the construction or maintenance of a private house, it is necessary to perform work at heights. Not all work can be done with a stepladder or ladder. In such cases it is necessary to use scaffolding.
Scaffolding can be made from various materials. The most common are metal and wooden scaffolding.
Metal scaffolding has great advantages. They are distinguished by their stability, safety and durability. But the cost of this design is quite considerable. Yes, and difficulties in assembly and large dimensions of the structure are not the most acceptable option.
An alternative to metal scaffolding is wooden scaffolding, which is easy to assemble and costs several times less. Another advantage of wood scaffolding is that they can be assembled with almost any available materials, using only available equipment. Wooden scaffolding can be transported to any distance independently and stored disassembled for a long time. Due to many advantages, many choose wooden scaffolding for construction and installation work.
Making wooden scaffolding is not difficult. It is enough to choose high-quality and durable wood of the right size. Since the structure of the scaffolding is temporary, it can be made from wood and boards, which are “not in good condition.”

Scaffolding process

1. First of all, you need to make a base. To do this, we take two beams and fasten them together using auxiliary boards. We secure the boards with self-tapping screws.

2. Cut the upper part of the beam at an angle. The bevel on the beam is necessary for further fastening of the remaining parts of the structure.

3. The finished part of the base looks like:

4. Next, we attach a 1 m long board to the cut site.

5. Consistently fasten to top bar three more parts of manufactured beams. Thanks to the presence of bevels on the beams, the structure takes on a stable shape.

6. To make the scaffolding structure more reliable and durable, it is necessary to strengthen it with the help of auxiliary strips. We fix the planks in the upper and middle parts of the structure. We do this work on both sides of the stand.

7. Additionally, we secure the stand at the base on several sides.

8. The finished part of the scaffolding looks like:

9. You can also strengthen the structure of the stand in the central part, while placing the fastening boards diagonally.

10. To perform the work, lay out wood flooring, which will serve as a place of movement.

11. Scaffolding stands can be made as many as necessary to perform safe work. The stands are easy to move from place to place without disassembling them. In addition, such a design can be used on various terrains and when performing work of any complexity.

12. Height wooden scaffolding can be adjusted by increasing the height of the wooden flooring.

Any construction of a house or facade works cannot do without the use of scaffolding. As a rule, scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Wooden scaffolding is, of course, easier to produce. To ensure the durability of the structure and enhance its strength, metal is chosen.

It all depends on the task and the required wear resistance of the particular scaffolding. The larger the working area, the more attention should be paid to strength. For the construction of private houses or adjacent structures, scaffolding is created 2.5 meters high and 1 m wide. It is better not to build a structure higher than 6 meters, because increasing the height of the structure reduces its stability.

Standard design involves the use of the following components:

Boards for flooring and lintels 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Beams for racks and stops measuring 10x10 cm. Nails or self-tapping screws (for small structures).

Spacers are placed between the legs to add strength to the structure. The racks are fastened with flooring and jumpers. To move between levels of scaffolding (up and down), steps are made from beams attached to racks, or an extension ladder is used.

Metal structures are assembled from steel or aluminum pipes. For this you need the following materials:

welding machine

Pipes 15 mm. are cut into 2 meter lengths and their ends are flattened.

From 30 mm. pipes are made into sections measuring 0.75 m (the length of one jumper) and 1.5 m.

The structural components are fastened together by welding or bolts. The jumpers are fixed crosswise on both sides. When one section is ready, you can build the next one.

Safety precautions during construction work should be paramount, so do not try to assemble and disassemble scaffolding more than two or three times. They lose strength from reusable assemblies.

Always check the strength of the assembly before starting work.

The need for scaffolding arose along with the need to construct or decorate buildings with a height of more than two floors.

The first such structures were made of wood, which is why they were called scaffolding. They are built around a building that needs to be repaired and are different types. Let's look at the most common types of scaffolding.

Wooden scaffolding

Wood has long been widely used in construction, and it can be used to construct scaffolding for finishing and repair work passing on low altitude. Typically this type of scaffolding is used for private homes or low-rise buildings. Since this type of scaffolding is the simplest and easiest to implement, we present the technology for its manufacture.

To construct wooden scaffolding, you will need boards 150x50 mm long, half a meter long, pieces of thin boards 25x100 mm, two long boards of fifty for supports and long boards of the required length for horizontal flooring.

First, triangular supports for the scaffolding are knocked together from the scraps of fifty, and then they are sheathed with thinner boards. The dimensions of the support triangles should be chosen based on the following factors: the support should not move away from the wall under the weight of the builder and its own weight, and there should also be enough space for a worker standing on the platform. In this regard, the length of the scaffold is usually chosen to be 400-500 mm, and the worker’s feet should not sag beyond the platform.

The supports are attached to the supports at sharp angles.

In this case, the upper end of the support is cut so as to insert it inside the support triangle, and the lower part is sharpened to be secured in the ground. After this, the scaffolding is brought to the desired position and the vertical part of the triangular supports is fastened to the wall with nails, without driving them in to the very tops, since then, after finishing the work, they will need to be removed. Then they place the ladder and begin to nail the flooring boards to the supports, in this case the nails are driven in all the way.

Before starting construction work, you should make sure that the structure is stable, and in general, wooden scaffolding should not be made higher than seven meters.

Metal scaffolding

They are made from aluminum or steel pipes, and there are two options for such structures: modular and frame. Modular types include suspended, wedge, clamp and modular (system) scaffolding. Frame scaffolding includes pin, flag and tower scaffolding.

All metal scaffolding requires anchoring to the walls of the building, and without such attachment, the height of the scaffolding should not be more than four meters, and then only on condition that the base under the scaffolding is perfectly horizontal and compacted.

Let's look at the main types of metal scaffolding.

Flag (frame) scaffolding

Such structures can withstand loads of up to 200 kg/sq.

meter. They consist of side frames, racks for horizontal and diagonal fastening of the side frames to each other and shoes for support on the ground. The dimensions of such scaffolding may differ depending on the manufacturer, but the construction scheme is the same.

Such scaffolding is easy to assemble and inexpensive, so it is very common. The frame scaffold fasteners are inserted into holes specially designed for this purpose and secured by turning. IN vertical plane the parts are connected by inserting the frame into the groove below the located element.

Tower tour

These scaffoldings can withstand a load of 200 kg/sq.m.

meter. Such structures are often used for repairing and finishing individual sections of building facades. Since it is quite expensive to build scaffolding around the entire building, and it takes a lot of time to assemble and disassemble them, a tower-tour is used.

It is a construction of their finished frames with a ladder, with wheels attached to its base. If frames with a height of over 4 meters are used, then additional spacers are attached to the frame of the first tier, and if the tiers of the tower are extended by 2/3 maximum height, then it is attached to the wall of the building with brackets or anchors. Such tower tours can be from 4 to 21 meters high and vary in the number of tiers.

Pin scaffolding

Used with a maximum load of 200 kg/sq.m.

meter. The horizontal elements of their design are fastened using pins, which are inserted into hollow pipe-eyes on vertical posts. Each level of scaffolding is assembled in stages, and the lower ends of the rack supports are inserted into the shoes.

For greater rigidity, diagonal braces are used. They can be mounted to a height of up to 40 meters, and are most often used for masonry work. Such scaffolding is made of steel tubes with a large wall thickness, and therefore they are capable of experiencing heavy loads.

Wedge scaffolding

Such structures with a standard load of 200-300 kg/sq.

meter have more complex design than the options described above. Their elements are secured with steel wedges driven in with a hammer. This increases the strength of the scaffolding, which is why they are used under heavy loads.

The special shape of the wedge prevents wedging. 8-hole flange rack locks are also used. Such scaffolding is used at heights of up to 40 meters for high-rise construction and finishing works.

Clamp scaffolding

Their standard load is 200-250 kg/sq.m. meter.

All elements are connected using clamps (rotary or blind), into which crossbars and racks are inserted and then secured with threaded bolts. The disadvantages include the complexity of assembly, but such scaffolding can be mounted to a height of up to 80 meters. Clamp scaffolding can also be used to work with complex architectural elements– for example, arches and domes.

Which type of scaffolding to choose depends, first of all, on the purpose of its use. Thus, for work at high heights, pin or clamp scaffolding is used, and for construction and finishing work at low heights, frame scaffolding is used.

Evaluate the manufacturing method:

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at height and make it possible to always have a supply on hand. Supplies.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. “Goat” scaffolds are usually called low portable tables that can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

Vertical posts (accept the working load and transfer it to the ground). Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame). Lintels (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid). Flooring (boards knocked together, serving as a working platform for builders) .Thoring slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over). Railings (protect workers from falling). Stairs (serve for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wood, but has no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters; the distance between the posts is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters; the width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

edged boards

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding.

Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for making small forests We can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

on a flat area, 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding, are laid out parallel to each other; the racks are connected with horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid; the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected by diagonal and horizontal ties; a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and fastened; the scaffolding is fixed on two side slopes, stops; railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving them in. Scaffolding made from profile pipes is similar in design to wood.

The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the “number of stories” of a metal structure. A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements: A profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m each and 4 pieces of 1 meter each). Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties). Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for making adapters and bearings). To make a railing, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long. Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings; 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties to each other and attaching them to the frame posts. The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations: the scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps ( high accuracy when working with metal, this is a very important factor); horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks; adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding; having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly panel, they are turned 90 degrees and in this position again fixed to the shield with clamps; ends and middle thin-walled pipes, intended for diagonal braces, are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them; having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked; the ties are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts; holes are drilled on the racks and railings for bolted connections; plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe sections; the assembled structure is placed vertically and the bearing bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes; flooring from the “magpie” board is laid on the side jumpers. Useful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring to its lower part at the point of contact with the jumpers you need to screw steel corners 30x30 mm. Diagonal ties need to be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ones on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly. If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then in it In the racks, you need to make holes for fastening the profile pipe of the thrust slope, which protects the structure from falling. In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, you need to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when increasing the length of the scaffolding). Video

Building a house is a responsible undertaking that requires a thoughtful approach, materials, tools and equipment. It is among the latter that scaffolding can be considered. These structures serve to make it possible to do finishing work at high altitudes.

Scaffolding allows the following work to be carried out at a height of 4 to 10 meters:

hem the gables,
make siding,
install a drain and so on.

In fact, there is more than enough finishing work. Moreover, scaffolding can be made higher than 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to do it yourself in accordance with all standards.

Attention ! You must be aware that working on scaffolding involves risk. Therefore, their strength should not be doubted.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Moreover, you have to pay a lot for delivery. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing material

In principle, there are only two alternatives. You can make your own scaffolding from metal or wood. Moreover, each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take metal scaffolding as an example. Making them with your own hands is not so easy. Moreover, this requires special equipment and materials that will most likely have to be purchased. But at the same time, a structure of this type has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to do the most complex work at a considerable height.

Advice ! After completing the work, metal scaffolding can be rented out. As a last resort, you can unwind them and put them in the garage.

If we rely on the experience of people who have encountered this issue, then the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase turns out to be quite expensive. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs must be worth it.

Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. In addition, after use they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, it is a disposable building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding, which you can make with your own hands, is several times inferior to its metal counterpart. But they cost practically nothing. Moreover, on every summer cottage can be found suitable materials. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is its low strength and low stability. Of course, if everything is done well, then this design can be used. That's why it's so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding is quite difficult to preserve, since untreated wood easily rots.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Nowadays, more and more often, non-construction forums can see entire topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course they exist and have mass important advantages in front of wooden and metal products. But it is not yet possible to produce them under industrial conditions.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of different types of structures

Making wooden scaffolding

This simplest design, which you can do with your own hands in just a day. To ultimately get a strong and reliable structure, simply follow these instructions:

Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
Place a second board in parallel.
Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
Lay the flooring.
To ensure increased rigidity, use brace boards. Use the ground as a support.
Increase level by level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that must be dealt with. Otherwise, the structure may not last for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the structure. The canon is considered to be a distance of two meters between risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the flooring is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance when constructing scaffolding is what fasteners use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. It is worth recognizing that both have their pros and cons.

Let's take self-tapping screws, for example. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making scaffolding with your own hands. But not everything is so simple. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their cap just flies off. Naturally, this may lead to complete destruction of the structure.

That's why the best option In order to make scaffolding with your own hands you will need nails. Moreover, it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their tips are bent.

The main reason for the fragility of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. This is why they often break under heavy loads. Nails are a completely different matter. They are based on soft metal. It may bend, but not break. That is why, if you want to make scaffolding with your own hands, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable advantages, nails are not ideal. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it is impossible to carefully disassemble the structure. You'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Therefore, experienced builders recommend that all those who decide to make scaffolding with their own hands fasten the basic version with self-tapping screws, and fix the final version with nails.

We make metal scaffolding with our own hands

First, we need to give one important clarification. In this option, the main structure is made of metal and the decking is made of wood. This is the optimal combination to achieve high performance.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself scaffolding is not made exclusively from metal.

Aluminum can be used as a metal for the frame. It is lightweight, so installation should not be difficult. However, it is not able to withstand too much load and this must be taken into account. It is best for each span to have the following parameters:

width - 100 cm;
height - 150 cm;
length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will provide the building created with your own hands with the necessary stability.

When creating a structure made of metal, you need to prepare properly, since the quality of materials is of particular importance here, you will need:

square profile,
pipes for spacers,
profile for connecting inserts,
flooring boards,
ladder,
connecting elements.

Naturally, you won’t be able to limit yourself to materials alone; to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

hacksaw for metal,
drill,
Bulgarian,
welding machine.

With this toolkit you can build a metal auxiliary device with your own hands.

The construction of scaffolding with your own hands begins with compacting the earth where the product will stand. This will ensure increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it wouldn’t hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is necessary element, if the finishing of facades will last for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must lay the boards with your own hands. This will provide greater stability. IN in this case no precaution will be unnecessary, since the slightest play can lead to the scaffolding collapsing, and you will not be able to do anything.

To make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, follow this algorithm:

To protect scaffolding from corrosion, you need to do protective covering. All you need is anti-corrosion liquid and special paint.

Results

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material you choose, for example, plastic structures can only be done under conditions industrial production. The most simple option is a wooden structure.

During construction work outside and inside premises (if they contain high ceilings) scaffolding is often necessary - it is not necessary to make drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repairs

Scaffolding is used very widely in construction and repair. Even ordinary DIY wall plaster without them it is not easy to carry out, and installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily knocked together trestle stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement of everything you need along the facade or wall being repaired. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs is the main benefit of scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so their cost can be included in the column “payment for the speed and convenience of repairs.”

Any scaffolding structure must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and consumables placed on them. If there is even the slightest doubt that the scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a ready-made, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such goods is quite diverse.

Classification of scaffolding

The term “scaffolding” itself is associated with the historical experience of decorating facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter “shelves” were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to descendants only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are designed with reusable use in mind. Structurally, scaffolding can be made in the following options:

Pin scaffolding is made of steel pipes, with welded bent fittings and socket locks. They are heavy and clumsy, requiring considerable time to assemble and move - but at the same time very durable. For example, stone or brickwork It’s best to do it with them. Pin scaffolding can be loaded with a large amount of heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and/or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a durable frame. May have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plastering or balcony siding– when the weight of building materials is small, and the work involves rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. They can withstand heavy loads and are still mobile. The fastening units are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
Clamp scaffolding is a universal structure with low load capacity for repair and restoration of curved facades;
Suspended - well-known “cradles”, with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. A structure can also be suspended between two stationary scaffolds without support from the ground.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only available for purchase; their independent “production” is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, can be assembled with your own hands if you have the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step-by-step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material– the creation of wooden scaffolding takes several repair stages, quite doable on your own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

The work will require several types of wood. The load-bearing supports are made of timber measuring 10x10 cm (a smaller cross-section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from the scaffolding). Horizontal decking is made from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm thick. Fence slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. The wood for supports and platforms must be free of knots and cracks and must be treated special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Planning the Frame

The end sides of wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not be an obstacle when repairing walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports made of 10x10 cm timber as solid rather than composite ones - then the strength of the multi-story structure will be higher. The minimum permissible width of homemade wooden scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise there is a high risk of the scaffold overturning during work. To work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a plane, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Frame Construction

Two beams no more than 6 meters high are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two are placed side by side in exactly the same way. The upper part of the beams should converge slightly upward for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding at the bottom a convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center-to-center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then at the top it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapezoids.

The timber sidewalls are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted with inside. In general, wooden scaffolding self-made can have no more than three “assembly floors”, so there will be only four sidewalls made of timber. Three correspond to the levels of the scaffolding, and the lower one serves for strength; it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a volumetric frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (or better yet, two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the accuracy of the docking will certainly suffer. The side cross members are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable scaffolding should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required convergence angle is small, otherwise an inconvenient gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Let's say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be sufficient.

Having installed the wooden sides vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side cross members with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and stored in a shed or garage.

Step 5: Final and Additional

All that remains is to nail the decking boards and fencing above each platform to the cross beams. On the sides of the scaffolding you can add additional crossbars that will serve as ladders. It is also useful to make a knot above each support in the form of a retractable pin for attaching the scaffolding to the earthen soil - on flat surfaces it is removed, and the entire structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

All photos from the article

When carrying out various works at height - from laying walls to façade cladding or applying plaster, it is necessary to construct structures that will allow the work to be carried out comfortably and at the same time ensure safety.

Professional builders use metal scaffolding, which is a prefabricated modular systems who may have the most different size, but for private use it is easier to build a structure from boards; this is the option we will consider in the article.

What you need for work

Before you build scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools:

Racks	For them, either a board measuring 50x100 mm or a wooden beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm is used, these elements will bear the main load and support the entire structure, so you should use only high-quality lumber without large knots, damage from woodworms and rot, this is very important for ensuring safety
Flooring and lintels	For these elements, a board with a thickness of 40-50 mm is used; it is important that the flooring can easily withstand the weight of several people and a small supply of materials (if necessary)
Spacers	Elements that impart rigidity and preserve the geometry of the structure being built are made from boards 30-32 mm thick; it is also used to create fences, which are mandatory to ensure a safe working process, because it is never excluded that someone will slip or trip on the scaffolding
Fasteners	Either nails or self-tapping screws of large thickness are used to ensure maximum reliability and strength of all connections. Can also be used modern version– mounting angles and plates, with their help the structure can be made even more reliable and durable, and besides, the price of these elements is low

Important!
Don’t forget about the tool, as you will need to cut wood, hammer in nails or tighten screws, as well as take measurements; the easiest way to do this is to use a tape measure, a square and a construction pencil.

The working process

The instructions on how to make scaffolding with your own hands from boards are quite simple, it is important to follow all the recommendations and requirements, this is where we will begin to consider the issue.

Basic design requirements

There are several generally accepted rules, the observance of which guarantees the reliability of the scaffolding you collect and ensures the highest safety:

The distance between the posts should not exceed 2-2.5 meters, since with longer spans the wood will not be able to provide adequate rigidity, especially under high loads;
The width of the decking to ensure comfortable work should be at least 1 meter, but making the structure wider than one and a half meters is also not recommended, since the stability of the system will suffer;
The maximum safe height of the structure is 6 meters, this is due to the fact that the same amount is maximum length lumber, and building up elements is not recommended.

Stages of work

The whole process consists of several operations that must be performed in a certain sequence:

First you need to connect the first 4 racks, to do this, first the long side is fastened together, this is done using diagonal struts, the second element is assembled in the same way, after which the end sides are connected using the same spacers, then the resulting structure must be installed and checked for stability, if necessary, reinforcement is made using additional jumpers and perforated corners;

Next you need to secure the jumpers, their location depends on the level at which the work will be carried out. It is important to calculate everything correctly to ensure the convenience of the process; if two rows of flooring are used, two rows of jumpers are made accordingly; they will also serve as elements providing rigidity; to further strengthen the support, it makes sense to attach them to corners with stiffening ribs;
The flooring is arranged along fixed lintels, for its construction, only a reliable board without cracks or damage is taken, it is necessary to cut it into pieces of the required length so that unnecessary parts do not stick out at the edges, these elements are best fastened using self-tapping screws, since they cause the wood to crack much less, and fixation is obtained much better;

Next you need to attach the fencing elements, their location directly depends on the location of the flooring. The general rule is that the elements should not be lower than waist level, sometimes it makes sense to nail two rows of boards for even greater security. Here lumber with a thickness of at least 30 mm is used so that, if necessary, it can withstand a sufficiently large force and not break;
The next stage is the installation of supporting elements, their number and configuration depend on the characteristics of a particular situation, the height of the scaffolding and the reliability of the soil around the house. Here it is important to learn one simple rule - install as many supports as necessary to ensure the best stability of the system you have built. The elements rest well on the soil, after which they are attached to the support posts;

Advice!
If the structure is wooden, then for additional reliability the system is attached to the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure, everything is very simple: one end of the block is fixed on the stand, and the other on the wall.