How to properly replant currants in the spring. When is it better to replant currants in autumn or spring? You can replant currant bushes and when is it better

Sometimes there are situations when a bush or tree should be transplanted to a new location. This can happen for several reasons:

the plant doesn’t like it in the same place,
high density of plantings,
the plant often gets sick,
rejuvenation of an old bush,
shrubs can occupy an area necessary for other needs (for example, building a building),
it is necessary to increase the yield of the bush (the soil in the old place has become impoverished).

We replanted the currant bush last fall due to the growth of neighboring bushes. They began to interfere with each other.

Red, black and white currants are extremely unpretentious shrubs, so they usually take root well in a new place. But in the first years they may remain weakened and more susceptible to pests.

Black currants can be transplanted into almost any soil, but red currants are best transplanted into loamy soil (they do not like stagnant moisture).

Rules for choosing a place:

Choose an open, sunny area. Currants love light. Black currants can also be planted in partial shade.
The site should be flat with an average level. In the lowlands, the currants will rot, and on the hills and slopes the bush may lack moisture.
Try to keep the place not too windy. We grow currants on sunny area at the fence.
There should be sufficient distance between the currants and neighboring bushes. And the point here is not only about the dangers of thickening. Currants are easily infected by many diseases and pests from plants of other species.
Choose an area with light loamy soil. Be sure to check the acidity level - the pH should be neutral or slightly alkaline. Be prepared to further deoxidize the soil if necessary.
Please pay Special attention on what plants grew in the chosen place before. Good predecessors for currants are beans, potatoes, and corn.
The place should not be surrounded big amount thoroughly overgrown weeds.

When to replant currants in the fall to a new place

You can transplant currants to a new place almost any time from spring to autumn. However, the plant receives much less injury from this procedure when sap flow is slow and the shrub is in the dormant stage.

There are 2 options left - spring and autumn. Let's list the advantages of each period:

In spring, plants awaken from long sleep. If you perform a transplant before active sap flow in the roots and shoots begins (from March 10 to 20), then in most cases the transplant will be well tolerated by the plant. The disadvantage of this approach is that you will have to skip the current season, there will either be no fruiting at all or it will be weak - the plant will adapt. On the other hand, shrubs that have not matured in a new place are not threatened by winter frosts. For residents of the northern regions of Russia, only spring replanting of currants is suitable.
In autumn, many plants tolerate transplantation much easier than in other periods. Currants in in this case is no exception. Already next season in a new place the bush will be able to produce good harvest. It is important to carry out this procedure at least a month before the arrival of persistent frosts so that the roots of the plant can take root properly.

IN middle lane In Russia, currant transplantation is usually carried out from mid-September to mid-October, focusing on the long-term weather forecast from weather forecasters. While the temperature remains moderately warm, the plant is actively growing lateral roots, which it needs for rapid rooting.

Transplanting too early can play a cruel joke - the currants will begin to produce fresh foliage this season and will suffer greatly when frosts arrive. Late planting is fraught with complete freezing of poorly rooted bushes.

Preparing the seat and planting

Approximately 2-3 weeks before the expected transplant date, it is necessary to prepare the area:

They dig it up to the depth of a spade bayonet, simultaneously removing everything from the ground weeds and roots.
Dig a planting hole. On average, its dimensions are 60x60x50 cm (length, width, depth).
If you are planting several bushes, leave at least 1.5 m between adjacent planting holes.
On heavy soils, organize drainage. For these purposes, you can use pebbles, crushed stone, and broken bricks.
A layer of turf soil, a bucket of compost or rotted manure, 250 g of superphosphate, and 1 liter of crushed wood ash are poured into the bottom of the planting hole. It is advisable to mix the resulting fertile layer. The pit is left in this form for several weeks until planting.

Preparing currant bushes, transplanting

Before transplanting, you need to take care of the currant bushes that are awaiting this procedure. The plant should be pruned in the spring. The height should be shortened to 50 cm. All old branches must be completely cut off, and young branches must be shortened by a third.

If you prune later, please note that at least 3 weeks must pass between pruning and replanting.

To remove a currant bush from the ground, dig it to a depth of 30 cm, retreating 40 cm from the trunk. Then they carefully take it by the lower part and try to drag the plant up. If the currants do not yield, then use a shovel to cut off the side roots that interfere with the process. Do not touch the branches under any circumstances, they will break.

The plant removed from the ground is carefully examined. First of all, pay close attention to the roots of the plant - there should be no rot or other diseases on them (the affected areas must be cut off with a reserve). All pests and their larvae are removed along with part of the roots surrounding them.

In case of severe infections, the roots of the plant are immersed in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

Planting stages:

2 buckets of water are poured into the planting hole.
At the bottom of the planting hole, a small mound is formed in the center.
The bush is placed on a mound and the roots are spread evenly on all sides. As a result, the plant should be located relative to the cardinal directions in exactly the same way as in its previous location.
While one person holds the correctly positioned bush, the second begins to fill the hole. To prevent the roots from ending up in air voids, gently shake the plant several times without lifting it.
The soil around the planted bush is lightly compacted. Be sure to make sure that the root collar ends up 5 cm below the surface of the ground.
A trench is dug around the trunk and 20 liters of water are poured into it.
The tree trunk circle and trench are mulched with straw, dry leaves or peat.

If after planting the weather is dry without rain, the transplanted currants are watered once every 2 days with 20 liters of water for each bush.

Around the end of November, when constant frost sets in, the currants are carefully tied and covered with spruce branches. The fallen snow is raked up to the bushes from all sides.

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Transfer rules

After choosing a location, the ground for future planting should be dug up, carefully selecting weeds and other plant debris. Planting holes are made at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other (for tall varieties, choose the maximum distance). A large distance allows the bushes not to shade each other and eliminates infection by a disease that has arisen on one of the bushes.

The depth of the holes should be at least 40 cm, and the width - 50-60 cm, depending on the size of the roots. They are filled with fertile soil mixed with humus (compost), mineral fertilizers and wood ash. This is how the planting sites for transplanting black currants are prepared. If red berry bushes are to be transferred, add a little sand to the ground and cover the bottom with drainage (crushed stone). Keep in mind that the pits are prepared 2-3 weeks before the event.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the preparation of the transplanted bush. All old branches need to be cut to the ground, and young shoots should be shortened by 2 times. Then the bush is dug in a circle and removed from the hole. They do this carefully, trying not to pull the shoots or harm the roots. If the bush is not removed, it is dug up again.

Most frequently asked question question asked by summer residents concerns how best to replant currants - with a lump of earth or soil should be shaken off from the roots. If the bush is healthy, you can use the first option. Then you will need a piece of cloth, film or a bowl to move the extracted currants. But more often old plants are replanted, and then there is a risk of diseases or pests in them. Or they dig up a large bush for the purpose of dividing it. Therefore, the soil is shaken off from the roots. After this, the root system is carefully inspected for insect larvae and pests. The larvae are removed, dry and damaged tissues are also removed, and the entire root mass is treated with potassium permanganate.

Before placing the shrub in the planting hole, you need to pour water into it and mix the fertile substance. The root system is immersed in the resulting slurry and covered with dry soil, holding the bush suspended. The root collar should be 5-8 cm below the ground level. The transplanted bush is watered abundantly so that the soil around the roots is compacted and there are no voids.

Further care is carried out as usual: good and frequent watering, fertilizing and spraying.

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At what time of year should I replant currants?

The main criterion when choosing a period of year is the climatic conditions of the area. If country cottage area located in a cold region, it is better to think about replanting in the spring, when the snow has completely melted and the temperature does not drop to 0.

In the fall, the plant may die due to early frosts and an immature root system. This applies to a greater extent to red currants, so if you do not want to take risks or the variety is quite rare, it is better to plant in the spring.

There is no point in delaying the search for a new place. As soon as the frost subsides and the temperature stops dropping below 0, you need to take care of the plant. When it becomes too late to replant currants, i.e. the bush began to develop after winter, it is better to postpone replanting until autumn.

If the work was postponed until the autumn season, you need to wait until the plant sheds its leaves and moisture stops circulating in the branches. It is impossible to give an exact date, we can only note that for cold regions, replanting black currants is optimal at the end of October. For warmer areas - 2-3 weeks earlier.

Transplanting too early may result in the currants sprouting fresh buds that will freeze in winter. This will weaken the plant or even kill it. If the autumn turns out to be warm and dry, you should periodically water the transplanted currant bush.

After the autumn replanting, it is imperative to sprinkle the base of the bush with humus mixed with fallen leaves. This is done to enrich the soil, as a result of which the berry harvest will be much better.

A less popular and not recommended period for transplantation is summer. During this season, digging up and looking for a new place for currants is highly undesirable. If it turns out that you didn’t have time in the spring, and in the fall it won’t be possible for some reason, then you can start replanting in early June. But it's better to leave it for next year.

Only in emergency cases is it possible to transplant currants at the end of July or in August. For example, when you need to move, but don’t want to leave the plant, the bush is dug up and placed in a container, bucket or box for transportation. There should be as much soil on the roots as possible; you cannot shake it off. The soil in which currants will be planted must be dug up with humus. After planting, water regularly for 3-4 days.

As for young seedlings, they can be replanted in any season, even in summer. You just need to follow a few recommendations:

If you follow these simple rules, then you can re-feed the cuttings no earlier than in a year.

Features and main stages of transplantation

There are many reasons why people want to move a shrub to a new location. There are several situations when this is really necessary:

It doesn’t matter when it was decided to replant currants - in the fall or in the spring, or what reason made you take up this issue, the procedure will always be the same. The first step is to find a suitable location.

When choosing, you must adhere to several simple rules:

Currants do not tolerate dark places; the area should be well lit sunlight. It is necessary to pull out all the surrounding weeds, if possible get rid of the roots of other plants and dig up the ground.

Do not plant near places with high humidity, for example, next to a small pond or well. If the soil is excessively saturated with water, this leads to rapid rotting of the roots and death of the plant.
It is not advisable to plant next to tall fruit trees. The fungus can be transmitted to transplanted shrubs.
The red currant bush can be planted in sandy soil.

Having selected and prepared a site for planting, you can proceed to the following steps:

After transplanting to a new location, you need to regularly water the seedling over the next two weeks. There should be a lot of water. But you shouldn’t pour currants for longer than 2-3 weeks, because... the roots will begin to rot. IN next year, when cutting branches, you need to leave a maximum of 10 shoots.

Processing and caring for currants in autumn

Having figured out when and how to replant currants, in the fall it is necessary to properly care for the plant and help it survive frosts. If you remember about the berries only at the time of picking them, then every year the harvest will be less and less. Therefore in autumn period You need to follow certain recommendations:

Removing weeds and loosening the surface in the area around the plant will saturate the soil with oxygen, which is so necessary for the root system. When digging up the top layer of soil, you cannot go deeper than 5-7 cm.

It is not necessary to break up the layers of earth, then the moisture will be better retained. To prevent the roots from freezing, the loosened areas are covered with sawdust, peat or ash.

The importance of watering after replanting has already been said, but in the fall after harvesting, this procedure is also relevant. Prolonged drought of soil under currants leads to a decrease in the number of berries. Before frost sets in, especially if the harvest is harvested and the weather is still hot, you need to pour 3 to 5 buckets of water under each bush at least once a week.

Black currant bush for spring and summer period depletes the soil underneath, absorbing most of the beneficial minerals. In autumn, you need to take care of proper nutrition of the plant. You can use different fertilizers, but the best option is old manure, which has all the necessary nutrients.

You can also purchase mineral fertilizers. The most commonly used are superphosphate and potassium chloride. To prepare fertilizer, certain proportions must be observed. For one full bucket of humus, add 170-200 grams of superphosphate and 50-70 grams of potassium.

The mass is evenly scattered at the base of the plant, at a distance of 40-50 cm from the bush, dig up the soil with fertilizer. It is advisable to repeat the procedure every autumn.

Currants must be inspected for the presence of diseases and pests. If rust is found on the leaves, then you need to transplant the bush to another area. The most dangerous is considered to be the presence kidney mite.

The insect may not be visible to the naked eye. Unnaturally large buds, which look like a small head of cabbage, will help determine its presence. If there are not many of them, then you just need to cut off and burn the infected buds along with the fallen leaves and removed branches. If most of the plant is infected, you need to get rid of it.

Mature currant bushes need annual pruning of old branches that have stopped bearing fruit. Beginning gardeners are afraid to prune shoots for fear of harming the plant.

There is nothing complicated about this, just know that you need to trim at a distance of 10 mm from the fruit bud at an angle of 45 - 55 degrees. You can do this both in early spring and in autumn. But given that currants bud quite early in the spring, it is better to leave pruning for the fall.

When planting young seedlings, 3-5 buds are left on the branches, the rest is cut off. If you care for it correctly, such a bush will sprout several more shoots within a year. There are cases when, for some reason, shoot growth did not occur and the development of currants stopped. In such a situation, only strong branches are left, the rest are cut to ground level. This will promote the growth of second-order shoots.

Knowing all these simple nuances, it will not be difficult to choose the time and place to transplant currants. If you properly care for the plant, you can count on a rich harvest for many years.

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Cuttings

Cuttings are taken in the fall, when adult plants are pruned. In winter they are stored in the basement, buried, and planted in the spring. By the fall of next year these are already powerful two-year-old bushes. They are also replanted in the fall. Then the bushes shed their leaves, preparing for winter. Life processes slow down. The plant is transplanted in a sleepy state, and it does not notice the change in location. In addition, in the spring it is difficult to catch the moment when the plant is still sleeping, and the soil has already thawed to a sufficient depth to dig up a seedling. You can miss this moment and the buds will open, sap flow will begin, the plant will begin to grow and, when transplanted, will spend energy on survival. After all black currant Already at a temperature of +2 degrees it comes to life, after which it can be severely damaged by returning frosts. To protect the bush from this, it is necessary to carry out snow retention. Also, if strong winds blow on the site, then the autumn planting of seedlings should be covered with barriers. This will prevent snow from covering the ground in early spring.

Layerings

In early spring, horizontal currant branches are bent to the ground and pinned with wooden hooks. Stems will grow from the buds. They are hilled up and watered during the summer. Weak plants winter worse and are more damaged by frost: they are not mature enough, the bark is still weak and the roots are not yet lignified. Therefore, in a sense, a gardener needs to think about transplanting seedlings in the summer: water, fertilize, and make sure that the soil under the young plants does not dry out. Otherwise, it turns out that the seedling feeds mainly on the mother bush, and its own roots are weak. Then they will not survive the transplant.

In autumn, the shoot is separated from the bush, dug up along with the rooted shoots and divided into bushes. The bushes are transplanted to a separate area. At high temperatures In dry autumn, seedlings need regular watering. In this case, you need to provide them with shelter for the winter. Next autumn the bushes are transplanted to permanent place.

Sapling from the nursery

The question “when to plant a plant from a nursery?” It comes down to when to buy it - autumn or spring. Nurseries prune bushes in the fall, and then they prepare cuttings. They are sold in the fall. If a two-year-old seedling is purchased in the spring, this is a very good planting material. Of course, when buying, you need to expose the roots and evaluate their development. There should be two or three woody roots. In general, it should be a young, handsome bush. It should be planted as early as possible, before the buds open. Annual seedlings may also be sold in the spring. This is a good planting material. Only fruiting will occur next year. Valuable varieties, especially not local selection, are best replanted in the spring. But the bushes transplanted in the spring will bear fruit only next year. So the choice is this: either replant in the fall, but there is a risk of poor survival. Or replant in the spring, but fruiting is postponed until next year. When purchasing in the fall, you must remember that the seedling will overwinter. Therefore, if the site is poor enough snow cover, then it’s better to wait until spring. And if the snow is in perfect order, the currant bush will take root well and will not suffer from drought in the spring.

But plants in a plastic container can be planted throughout the spring, capturing the beginning of summer. It is only important to follow the nursery’s instructions and replant using the method of transferring soil from a container.

perennial bush

If it so happens that you need to move an adult currant bush, then it is better to do this in the fall. Some of the roots will inevitably be lost. To reduce their loss, it is good to use a basin during transportation. Plant it in a new place a little deeper than the bush grew in its previous place. And immediately shorten the branches. The bush will need to be watered, preventing the soil from drying out. It is also mandatory to mulch the soil under the bush. This will insulate the earth and create favorable conditions for watering in spring.

It happens that the bush gets sick. In this case, at the beginning of the period for transplanting currants in the region (in the middle zone - in mid-September), it is necessary to remove all dried and damaged roots, then give the bush a “manganese bath”, which will protect it from fungal diseases. Then plant it in a planting hole filled with compost and ash. For about 20 days you need to water the bush abundantly. Plant a circle of garlic around the bush - this will repel pests. Then the transplanted bush will have good opportunity winter.

Thus, when transplanting currants, the region, the ability of the site to retain snow and the age of the seedling are taken into account. By carefully approaching this issue, even a novice gardener will determine the timing for his currant seedlings.

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Planting black currants

Planting black currants is an important process, the correctness of which determines the further development of the plant and the size of the future harvest. Many difficulties encountered when growing fruit bush, can be avoided if you follow the rules for choosing the place and time of landing.

Choosing a time and place to land

In areas with a temperate climate, the most suitable time of year for planting shrubs is autumn, in September - October. In this case, the seedlings will take root better, and the first harvest of ripe berries can be harvested in the summer. Seedlings should be purchased immediately before autumn planting.

If planting is planned in the spring, then they need to be put away for storage, buried in a trench dug in a sunny and elevated area (so as not to flood in the spring) with a depth of 50 cm, a width of 35 cm and a length exceeding the length of the seedling by 20 cm. The trench must first be laid a layer of sawdust, moss or coniferous branches, 10–15 cm thick. Before removing the seedlings into the trench, they should be placed in a container with warm water, then rinse and dry the roots. After planting the seedlings in the trench, they need to be covered with soil, watered, and covered again with soil to form a mound 20–25 cm high. The last step is to throw spruce branches on top. In the spring, before sap flow begins and the buds open, you need to take the seedlings out of storage and start planting.

Spring planting of currants is carried out in areas with harsh winters.

When planting currants important It has right choice site: it should be moist and located in a non-swampy lowland or on a small hill, and groundwater should not lie too close to the soil surface, but not lower than 1–1.5 m from its surface. This need is explained by the fact that the bush constantly needs water, which it root system can be obtained from the soil. Too close groundwater A drainage layer must be laid at the bottom of the holes, otherwise the root system may rot or die altogether.

It is recommended to plant currant bushes on the south or southwest side to ensure good lighting. If the plant is in the shade, the berries will not ripen. The area should be windless, so you should choose a place near the house or along the fence, at a distance of at least 1 m from it.

Preparing the soil and pit

Currants are an unpretentious crop that takes root well on any soil, except rocky, sandy, marshy and heavy acidic soils. However, for growing black currants, loose and fertile soils with moderate or neutral acidity, for example, loamy. The acidity level can be easily checked using litmus paper: place 1 part of the soil sample and 4 parts of water in a container, mix the contents and lower the litmus paper into it. After 1 minute it will turn a color indicating the acidity level. Optimal level acidity for currants is 5.1–5.5.

In acidic soil you need to add 100–200 g of ash per 1 square meter. m of plot, and this process will have to be repeated annually, since the calcium contained in the ash is washed out when watering or heavy rains. Instead of ash, you can use 300–400 g of dolomite flour, 200–300 g of crushed chalk, gypsum or eggshells. If the soil has an insufficient level of acidity, it can be acidified by adding rotted sawdust, fresh manure, leaf compost. As you can see, any soil can be adapted for planting black currants; you just need to correctly determine its acidity level.

4 weeks before planting, you need to prepare the area for currants:

clear away weeds;
level the surface by filling in existing holes;
dig on the bayonet of a shovel;
contribute for each sq. m. soil 5 kg of organic fertilizers, such as peat, humus or compost.

If currants are planted in the spring, then preparation of the site should begin in the fall so that within six months the soil is saturated with useful components.

On the day of planting, you need to dig planting holes measuring 40x40 cm and 0.5 m deep. The distance between planting holes depends on the selected variety:

if the bushes are spreading, then the distance should be 1.5 - 2 m;
if the bushes are erect and slightly spreading, then planting holes can be dug 1 meter from each other.

If seedlings are planted too close together, the yield may decrease, and the life cycle of the shrubs will also be shortened in the future.

Selection and preparation of seedlings

Choosing seedlings for planting is a responsible matter, which determines whether the plant will take root or not. Viable bushes have a powerful and developed root system, consisting of two or three semi-lignified branches 15–25 cm long and many fibrous roots. The roots should not be dry and diseased. Damage to the root system is also not allowed. One- or two-year-old seedlings are better suited for planting, and the latter take root faster and begin to bear fruit earlier.

An important indicator of high-quality seedlings is the condition of the bark: it should be smooth, and the trunk under it, if the bark is plucked off, is colored green. A dead plant has a darkened, brown trunk under the bark.

Before transportation, the roots of purchased seedlings should be moistened with water, first wrapped in burlap, and then plastic bag- this way they won’t dry out and get injured.

A seedling ready for planting should have 1–2 smooth and flexible branches 30–35 cm long with buds of normal size and not swollen from damage by bud mites. The buds swell due to the fact that eggs are laid inside them, from which mite larvae subsequently hatch and infect the entire bush and neighboring plants. As a result of their activity, the number of healthy shoots is reduced, which negatively affects currant yields.

If you purchase planting material of different varieties and plant bushes nearby, the yield of the plantings will increase, and the size of the berries will also increase due to cross-pollination.

Planting methods

The choice of planting method depends only on the size personal plot and personal preferences of its owner. There are 3 ways to plant currants:

Tape - used for planting annual seedlings, which are planted in one line with a distance of 1 meter between them. In the second year after planting, a dense wall of strong chokeberry shoots is formed. The advantage of this method is the ease of care on both sides of the currant row.
Bush - more often used for planting spreading varieties of currants, so planting holes are dug at a distance of 2–2.5 m from each other in a linear or checkerboard pattern. This method is relevant if you have a large garden plot.
Single planting - used in a small free and well-lit area, the size of which does not exceed 3x3 m, which ensures better illumination and care. As a result, there is a higher yield of large fruits.

The procedure for planting seedlings:

Mix the soil from the pit with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, for example, superphosphate.
Pour a bucket of water over the prepared hole with soil.
Insert the seedling into the prepared hole at an angle of 45˚, no matter in which direction, straighten the roots, shake the seedling periodically so that air is not trapped between the roots. At vertical landing the bush will grow single-stemmed, and if inclined, branched.
Fill the planting hole with soil, deepening the root collar by 6–8 cm, and compact it.
Water the seedling with half a bucket of water.
Mulch the tree trunk circle with sawdust, peat or rotted manure, and the thickness of the mulch should be at least 5 cm.
Carry out the initial pruning of the seedling, leaving 2–4 buds on the branches.

Caring for seedlings during the first time after planting

Immediately after planting you need to dig around the perimeter trunk circle groove and pour water into it to moisten the soil. After the water has been absorbed, the groove must be filled with peat or turf soil, but do not use fresh manure and mineral supplements, otherwise the roots will get burned.

In the first time after planting, you need to intensively care for the plant: loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm 2–3 times a week, weed the tree trunk, water it abundantly and feed it. When watering and fertilizing, it is important to observe the timing, frequency and quantity of these activities.

Watering and fertilizing currants

Currant is a moisture-loving shrub, so at least 3 waterings are required per season:

the first - in early June, during the formation of ovaries;
the second - in the last ten days of June - the first ten days of July, when the berries begin to ripen;
the third - at the end of August - beginning of September, after the end of fruiting.

In the absence of autumn rains at the end of October, additional watering for the winter is necessary.

When watering, the soil should be moistened to a depth of 35–40 cm so that the entire root system has access to moisture. Water consumption for irrigation should be at least 20–30 liters per 1 square meter. m. Another condition is to water with warm water in the evening.

In the summer months it is necessary to add to the soil organic fertilizers, for example, 40 g of urea for each plant, or spray the leaves with foliar fertilizer.

Foliar feeding can be prepared at home: dilute 3 g in water separately boric acid, 5 g of potassium permanganate and 40 g of copper sulfate, and then add the resulting solutions to a bucket of water.

At the end of September - beginning of October, you need to once again feed the bushes with organic or mineral fertilizers, immediately water and dig up the soil.

Bush pruning

To form bushes, it is necessary to prune the plant. The appropriate time of year for this event is early spring, before the buds appear, or late autumn.

Currant pruning is carried out in several stages:

first - immediately on the day of planting you need to trim the branches, leaving 2-4 buds on each;
the second - after a year, when weak and small branches are cut off;
in the third year, all weak and diseased shoots should be removed, and healthy shoots should be pruned by 30%;
the fourth stage is carried out 6–7 years after planting - five- and six-year-old branches that will no longer bear fruit are removed.

Compatibility of currants with other plants

Onions are a wonderful neighbor for currants. If you plant it next to currants in late autumn onion, an important task will be completed - spring protection kidneys from kidney mites. The proximity to honeysuckle and apple trees is considered good for currants.

The situation is completely different with planting black currants next to red currants. If these 2 species are planted side by side, the yield of each will decrease sharply. This phenomenon does not apply to golden currants, which perfectly coexist with chokeberries.

Compatibility table of black currant with other plants

The same consequences are observed when adjacent to raspberries, which need a spacious area. Due to the rapidly growing root system of raspberries, which oppresses other plants, currant bushes begin to experience discomfort, lack of moisture and lose vitality, which negatively affects its productivity. For the same reason, cherries, plums and sweet cherries are another undesirable neighbors for currants.

Planting bushes next to buckthorn has an unfavorable effect, from which currants can become infected with goblet rust. Dangerous consequences for currants it is adjacent to bird cherry, which attracts the attention of the glassberry - a pest of all fruit and berry crops, and with gooseberries - due to the moth.

Black currants, for their part, benefit crops such as tomatoes and potatoes, repelling their pests with phytoncides.

Currant grafting

Blackcurrant grafting can be done in spring, summer and autumn. Most preferred summer vaccination on a high stump. When grafted onto a stump, black currant serves as a rootstock. This method allows you to get a currant tree with berries of white, red, pink or black.

Procedure for grafting onto a tall stump:

The rootstock stems need to be cut into a tall stump, a scion cutting should be prepared and they should be combined by simple copulation.
After the grafting has taken root, the rootstock should be shortened and a compact shrub should be formed.
In order for the grafted shoots to produce a harvest next summer, the basal shoots of the current year must be completely removed.

Transplanting currants to a new place

Mandatory replanting of shrubs is required when the soil is depleted, the initial choice of planting site is incorrect, and when redeveloping a personal plot. Other reasons for transplanting currants are:

variety propagation;
excessive density of plantings;
insufficient lighting;
contamination of the soil in the old place by pathogenic fungi;
frequent flooding melt water and rains;
the need to renew shrubs;
repeated freezing of plants.

To maintain high yields, it is recommended to replant currants every 5 years. In order for the plant to undergo this procedure painlessly and not die, you need to know the specifics of the transplant.

When should the transplant be carried out?

The time of transplantation depends on the region of growth: in the northern regions, due to the harsh winter, a spring transplant is indicated, and in the northern zone of Russia and the southern regions, an autumn transplant is recommended, which should be carried out no later than 3 weeks before the onset of frost. The preferred dates for autumn transplantation are from September 10 to 15. The timing of spring transplantation is also determined by weather conditions - the air temperature must rise to + 1 ˚C, and the soil must completely thaw, and is limited to the beginning of the growing season, that is, it is carried out in April, before sap flow begins and until the buds open.

Choosing a transfer site

The northern and north-eastern slopes of a personal plot are suitable for transplanting black currants; slight shading is allowed. Currants will grow well in the place where buckwheat, potatoes, corn, beets, and beans previously grew. Areas with high humidity and stagnant cold air are not recommended for replanting, as in such conditions fungal diseases develop and root rot may appear. If possible, you should choose sunny place, not flooded by rain and melted snow, with loose and humus-rich soil.

Preparing the soil and pit

Before replanting, you need to prepare the soil in the selected area: dig up the soil to a depth of 40 cm and add 1 square meter. m. of soil, a mixture of fertilizers from 10 kg of compost, 10 g of double superphosphate and 7 g of potassium chloride.

In August, before the autumn transplant, you should dig up the area again. The same digging of soil for spring replanting should be done in the fall.

Immediately before transplanting, you need to dig a planting hole: for young bushes - 40x40 cm in size, for adult bushes - 60 cm in diameter and 40 cm deep, and for tall and remontant currant varieties, the depth should be 60–70 cm. The final size of the planting hole depends on the size of the shrub's root system. The next planting hole must be dug 1.5 m from the previous one.

Each planting hole must be filled 1/3 with the prepared substrate: mix the soil from the hole with 10 kg of rotted manure, add 300 g of superphosphate and 400 g of wood ash, which can be replaced with 30 g of potassium sulfate. After filling the hole with soil, you need to water it with 10–20 liters of water.

Proper replanting of shrubs

If the currant bushes have thinned out foliage and begun to turn yellow, the size of the leaves has decreased, the berries have been crushed and the yield has decreased, it’s time to get down to business and transplant the plant from the depleted soil to a new location.

Spring transplantation of currants should be carried out after warming the top layer of soil to + 5 °C, until the buds on the shoots begin to bloom. The bush needs to be moved to a new place along with a lump of earth, so the plant will more easily survive stress and begin growth faster. During the first time after spring transplantation, currant bushes need to be watered generously with warm water. After spring replanting, the branches of the bush grow faster, and already next year sweet and sour currants will ripen on them.

Autumn transplantation of currants

Autumn, just like when planting currant seedlings, - perfect time years for transplanting adult bushes. Recommended transplant dates are from late September to early October. Moving to a new location should begin after the end of the growing season. Relatively old bushes are replanted entirely, but it is necessary to prune old shoots. Trimmed shoots are not thrown away, but are used as planting material. Mature currant bushes are transplanted together with a large earthen ball, so they will better take root in the new place.

Replanting by dividing a bush

This method of transplantation is not the most popular method of propagating currants. It is used when there is a shortage of planting material, as well as when there is a need to transplant the shrub to a new location. The advantage of replanting by dividing the bush is the rapid rooting and survival rate of the transplanted currants, as well as the possibility of carrying it out in early spring or autumn.

Before transplanting, prepare several planting holes 60–80 cm deep, mix the soil from the holes with manure.

Transplantation algorithm by dividing the bush:

Carefully dig the bush out of the ground so as not to damage the root system.
Remove dry branches from the bush and shorten young shoots to 30 cm.
Using an ax, divide the bush into several parts so that each part has a branched root and shoots with buds.
Straighten the roots of the resulting bushes and transplant the plants into prepared planting holes.
Fill with soil, compact, pour 10–15 liters of water and mulch with peat or manure.

Care after transplant

Immediately after transplanting, the currants need to be cut off; if this is not done, the plant will take a long time to get used to the new place. Also, at first, abundant watering is important: the soil should always be moist, a young bush will need up to 20 liters of water, and an adult - up to 40–50 liters per week. If the bushes were replanted in the fall, then it is recommended to hill them up, since in this case the plants will better survive the winter. But at the beginning of spring, the earthen embankment needs to be leveled, otherwise the currants will put down lateral roots there, which will freeze in winter.

After transplantation, the plant does not need fertilizing, since fertilizers were previously applied to the planting hole. Otherwise, the roots of the plant will get burned.

Growing currants April 23, 2016

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Before planting any plant in a permanent place, it is a good idea to think twice. It is a rare culture that will respond favorably to moving as an adult. However, sometimes you have to move a large plant to a new location. How to do this with minimal losses?

Autumn transplant

First of all, you need to correctly determine the timing of the manipulation. This should definitely be a time when the plant is dormant and will not feel the transplant. An adult bush has many growth points and developed leaf apparatus, and the roots are inevitably injured. Therefore, we need to think about how it will “wake up” in a new place and whether it will “pull” the load.

The safest time is autumn. At the same time, in the northern regions, winter frosts pose a great danger to the plant, so when replanting it is necessary to set the task so that the bush has time to take root before they occur. In regions with a warm climate, winter comes later, so you can replant currants until November inclusive.

It is also important to prepare the planting hole in advance. For autumn planting it is done at least three weeks in advance, and for spring - in the fall. You need to dig it up and tuck it in the same way as for a seedling. Choose a place that is sunny and has low groundwater levels. This recommendation is relevant for residents of the middle zone. To the south, in the forest-steppe and especially steppe zones, the crop requires partial shading, especially in hot weather. There are fewer wetlands in the south, and therefore you should select a sufficiently moist place, because black currants do not tolerate drought.

What about red?

For red currants, a layer of drainage should be placed at the bottom of the hole, because they are more sensitive to excess than to lack of moisture. In spring, the time for replanting is very limited - the crop is one of the first to enter the growing season. The operation should begin as soon as the snow has melted and excavation work can be carried out.

Particular attention to the roots

When digging up a bush, we strive to preserve the root system as much as possible. You can use the following method, which experienced gardeners used for transplanting shrubs. In the spring, we dig up the plant with a sharp shovel, having previously marked a lump of earth with which the transplant will be carried out. In this case, the long roots will be cut off, and new suction roots will have time to grow over the summer. Consequently, during the final digging in the fall, the bush will suffer less. A lump of earth with roots can be placed on burlap to make transporting it more convenient.

However, some experts recommend replanting currants without a clod of soil, but rather, shaking off the soil from the roots and carefully inspecting them, removing larvae and other pests, and possibly dividing the bush. Then the roots are washed with a solution of potassium permanganate. This method is more suitable for old bushes whose health is in doubt. With such a transplant, the plant is simultaneously rejuvenated by removing old branches. However, some of the branches will have to be sacrificed in any case, because when moving an adult bush, it is especially important to monitor the balance of the underground and above-ground parts.

If you have currants growing on your site, to get a stable yield from them high yields very important not only proper care behind the bush, but also its timely replanting. We will tell you when you can replant currants, whether it is possible to replant currants in the summer, how to transplant currants to a new place and how to care for them later.

In what cases is currant transplantation necessary?

Usually, currant transplantation is combined with its vegetative propagation, but sometimes you have to replant bushes for other reasons:

overgrown trees began to interfere with the currants;
old bush requires rejuvenation;
the plant began to hurt due to the fact that the soil under it was depleted.

For whatever reason you have to replant currants, the procedure for this procedure is the same for all cases.

Timing for transplanting currants

In the northern regions, currants are transplanted in early spring, when the snow melts and the temperature reaches above zero. But if the bushes have managed to grow, then it is better to postpone the replanting to September.

In the middle zone, currants are transplanted in October: depending on weather conditions - from the middle to the end of the month. If you hurry and replant the bushes at the end of summer or at the very beginning of autumn, they can quickly take root and throw out buds that will die at the first frost.

Watch the weather: the currants should have time to take root before the onset of winter, but should not begin to grow.

What is the difference between spring and autumn planting?

Currants planted in the spring take a long time to take root, and the berries will appear on it only after a year, while after autumn planting the plant needs one winter to adapt, and next summer you will be able to harvest from it.

Choosing a site for currants

When choosing a place for transplantation, you should consider that red and white currants are heat-loving plants, and they need to be planted on flat areas oriented to the south or southwest so that the soil is well heated by the sun. Water and cold air should not stagnate on the site, and the soil composition should be loose and breathable.

Black currant is not so whimsical: it can grow in a northern and north-eastern direction, and this type of crop tolerates even several hours of shade a day.

The best predecessors for currants are potato , corn , beet , beans And buckwheat .

Preparing planting holes for currants

Six months before transplanting, dig up the soil with fertilizers to a depth of 40 cm, adding 10 kg of humus or compost, 10 g of superphosphate and 7 g of potassium chloride per m². Two to three weeks before transplanting, dig up the area allocated for currants again and prepare holes in it with a diameter of 50-60 and a depth of 30-40 cm, placing them at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. Although it is better to focus on the size of the bushes when preparing pits: tall and remontant varieties currants will require pits up to 70 cm deep.

The holes for white and red currants need deeper holes, because a layer of broken brick, crushed stone or expanded clay up to 15% of the depth of the pit is laid on their bottom. Black currants do not need drainage.

Fill the planting holes to one-third of the depth with a fertile soil mixture consisting of topsoil, humus or compost (about 10 kg per bush), superphosphate (300 g each for black currants and 200 each for red and white ones) and 30 g each of potassium sulfate , which can be replaced with 400 g of wood ash. Then pour 1.5-2 buckets of water into each hole.

In the time remaining before transplanting the currants, the soil in the pits will have time to structure, become saturated with moisture, and the fertilizers will take a form that will not cause the currants to burn the roots.

2-3 weeks before transplanting, the bush is pruned, leaving only the developed areas necessary for fruiting: remove all branches older than five years, dry branches and shoots, and shorten the main branches of the bush by a third. As a result, the bush ready for transplanting should reach a height of 45-50 cm. Do not prune immediately before the procedure, because this is a double load for the plant, which it may not be able to cope with and will die: instead of concentrating all its energy on rooting, the bush will have to heal wounds and cuts.

Transplanting currants in autumn

Dig a circular trench 30-35 cm deep at a distance of 40 cm from the base of the bush, then tie the branches with a rope so as not to damage them, grab the bush at the base and pull up. Cut off the roots holding the plant with the bayonet of a shovel.

Having pulled the bush out of the ground, inspect its roots, free them from pests, remove dry and rotten areas and immerse them in a one percent solution of potassium permanganate for a quarter of an hour. If the currant roots are healthy, they are replanted without disinfection.

Place a mound of nutritious food at the bottom of the hole. soil mixture, the same one you used to fill the pit to a third of the depth, and place a bush on the hill. Spread the currant roots and fill the planting hole with soil so that the root collar of the currant bush is 5 cm below the surface level. When filling the pit, make sure that there are no voids left in it. Compact the surface of the tree trunk circle, form a watering hole in it, so that water does not spread over the area, and went to the roots, and pour 2-2.5 buckets of water into it. You need to pour water in portions, waiting for it to be absorbed. After watering, mulch the root area with turf soil, humus or peat. 1 4.7142857142857 Rating 4.71 (7 Votes)

How can you compare transplanting currants to a new place? Rearranging the furniture in the apartment. In both cases, the question arises: why? Let's try to ask ourselves this question and answer it honestly.

And also, if the reasons for transplantation are objective, we will try to describe the process of autumn transplantation that is correct and safe for currants.

Let us point out the main reasons that force us to carry out this operation:

major redevelopment of the site (if it turned out that the initial one was unsuccessful);
freeing up the space occupied by currants for other purposes;
moving the bush to a more suitable place;
thinning an overgrown berry plantation;
carrying out rejuvenation of an aged bush.

Another reason for replanting is often cited - soil depletion. Plants do not feed on soil and do not use it up.

The elements that they extract from the earth in water-soluble forms - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and a number of other elements in microscopic quantities - are easily replenished with mineral supplements.

But if the currant bush was initially planted in soil with a poor structure, then it can only be improved by digging up the bush and adding a sufficient amount of organic matter to the planting hole.

Choosing a new place for currants

The soil

In most cases, our capabilities in this matter are very limited. Fortunately, currants, like all traditional Russian plants, are unpretentious to external conditions.

It grows well on light loamy and sandy loam soils, especially since the substrate is under a small berry bush The garden can always be improved with organic matter (peat, humus, compost).

The soil acidity level should be neutral or slightly alkaline. This can be achieved, if necessary, by neutralizing acidic soils dolomite flour, chalk or lime.

Landing location

The requirements for the place of growth, although not very much, depend on the variety of currant, which can be: black (most often), red, white (one of the types of red) and green-fruited (a variety of black currant).

Any currant needs sun, and this applies to a greater extent to red (white), while black currants tolerate limited shading more easily. And this must be taken into account when choosing a landing site. The source of shadow can be a house, a fence, trees and, finally, the growing bushes themselves.

The distance from the fence, if it is a sunny place, should be at least one meter, the distance between the bushes is 1.5 meters. A close groundwater level is unacceptable.

Red currants react especially painfully to this; excessive soil moisture provokes a fungal disease of the root system. Sometimes this problem can be solved using drainage system or adding sand to the planting hole.

When to transplant currants

This can be done at any time throughout the growing season. But replanting a bush is a traumatic operation for the plant; it may not survive it. In addition, when doing this work in the summer, it is necessary to keep the root system closed without damaging the earthen ball.

Considering the size of the perennial bush, this is technically and physically difficult to do.

To minimize risks, currants must be replanted during their minimum biological activity, when there is no movement of juices in the shoots.

Optimal periods for transplantation

The plant has two such periods. This is early spring, when it has not yet woken up from hibernation, and autumn, when on the eve of winter all processes in it fade away. Both options have their pros and cons. When transplanted in the spring, the plant has enough time to heal its wounds and prepare for winter.

The disadvantages include the limited time for carrying out this work in conditions of spring time shortage. In addition, after transplanting in spring, you should not wait for the harvest this summer.

But this option is most suitable for the northern regions of the country with their harsh winters. To survive them, currants transplanted in the spring will have time to accumulate enough strength and nutrients.

Autumn transplant

For most areas, it is most preferable to transplant currant bushes in the fall. A plant transplanted in the autumn will produce a harvest next summer. Not a single season will be lost. In the fall there is more time to complete this work; it can be done slowly and efficiently.

At the same time, we should not forget that a plant transplanted on the eve of winter will encounter winter frosts weakened and needs help to survive them, i.e. By the time frost sets in, the seedling must take root. Optimal time blackcurrant transplants for central Russia - from September 20-25 to mid-October.

Other types of currants (red and white) take root more slowly, so the timing of their transplantation begins from the 10th-15th of September.

For other territories, this period is a month before the onset of stable frosts. During the transplant process, it is equally important not to be late with this operation, nor to do it too early.

If transplanted too early, when the leaves have not yet fallen, the shoots may begin to grow, wasting the energy necessary to prepare for winter. Such a bush will almost certainly not survive the winter.

Preparing the transplanted bush

Before replanting the plant, it must be dug up, minimally damaging the root system. Having retreated 40 cm from the stems of the bush, mark a circular line and dig a 30 cm deep groove along it. At this depth, root shoots that prevent the plant from being removed are cut off with a shovel.

The bush is pulled out of the hole by carefully grasping its lower part and at the same time cutting off the remaining roots. This is a two person job. For subsequent transportation to a new location, the plant is placed on a piece of thick polyethylene film, tarpaulin or construction waste bag.

Then it will be convenient to drag it all to the transplant site. If the new location of the currants is far away, a large basin is optimal for transportation.

Bush handling

The best option is transplantation with an earthen ball (transshipment), as it is the least traumatic. If this cannot be done, the root system is inspected, removing mechanically damaged and rotten areas.

For prevention purposes, the roots are immersed for 15 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1%). Another procedure must be carried out at least a month before replanting (it can be done immediately after harvesting) - this is pruning the bush.

Be sure to remove old branches, and shorten young shoots by a third. This will allow the weakened root system to cope with feeding the crown.

How to perform the procedure for transplanting currants

The planting pit should have a diameter of 60 and a depth of 40 centimeters. It is prepared three weeks before transplantation. The extracted soil is sorted by quality, putting the top one, as more fertile, aside. The hole is first filled with upper layer garden soil, then adding organic matter (humus, compost, peat), mix it all and let it compact before planting.

Before planting, the hole is spilled with water, a bush is placed in it and covered with earth, making sure that the root collar ends up 5 cm below ground level. To appear more The lateral roots of the bush are planted obliquely. For the same purposes, the shoots are pruned, leaving 3-4 buds on each sprout.

To ensure that there are no voids left inside the root system, the bush is periodically shaken while sprinkling with soil, simultaneously compacting the soil. All this is completed by compacting the soil around the currants and creating a restrictive bead for watering.

The procedure ends with watering and mulching the tree trunk circle with dry leaves, peat, sawdust or straw.

The main thing when transplanting currants

In the northern regions of Russia, currants should be transplanted in the spring so that the bush can take root normally during the growing season.
In the middle zone, black currants are replanted from September 20-25 until mid-October. Red and white - a week earlier. The main indicator of the start of replanting is the shedding of leaves.
For planting currants use slightly acidic or alkaline soil, for red and white currants - with the addition of sand.
When planting, it is advisable to deepen the root collar of the seedling by 5-10 cm. Over time, lateral roots will emerge from the buried part of the trunk, which will provide the transplanted bush with adequate nutrition.
The plant transplanted in the fall is mulched with humus, and when persistent frosts occur, additionally with dry leaves, straw or spruce branches.

Transplanting currants. How to transplant correctly:

Black currant - correct landing autumn:

There are a lot of opinions among gardeners as to whether it is possible to transplant currants to a new place in the fall, or whether it is better to do it in the spring. There is no clear answer. In addition, a lot depends on what kind of currant we are talking about: red or black. The black one is so unpretentious that some extreme sports enthusiasts, without hesitation, plant it in frozen ground. But the survival rate of red ones is much lower, so red currant bushes need to be replanted at least a month before the onset of cold weather.

However, no matter how unpretentious the blackcurrant may be, it is still wiser to complete all the work associated with its transplantation before the air temperature drops below zero.

Currant transplantation

Much also depends on the age of the plant being transplanted. If this is a young shoot, then the chances of successful survival are very high. But for an adult bush this is a lot of stress, which is inevitably accompanied by pain, decreased yield and other unpleasant consequences, up to the death of the plant.

Choosing a place for currants

Before replanting currant bushes to a new location, you need to decide on this location. It is better to choose an area for growing currants that is open and well-lit: this will allow the bushes to develop properly and avoid many diseases, which, in turn, will have a beneficial effect on the quantity and quality of the harvest. For the same reason, you should not plant currants next to berry and fruit trees.

Shade does not suit currants, so do not replant them north of houses or fences.

Also, currants do not like excess moisture, so damp and marshy areas are not suitable for them. The ideal soil for it is chernozem mixed with loam, and for red and white currants – also with the addition of sand.

Site preparation

The area must be dug up, adding humus, compost or wood ash. In order for currants to grow and develop well, they need a lot free space, therefore, the distance between planting holes should be at least 150 cm, and preferably two meters, if the size of the area allows. In addition, such a distance will help avoid widespread plant diseases.

As for the depth of the planting hole, experts advise digging it to about 60 cm. This is exactly how much is needed for the proper development of small lateral roots, which are the main source of nutrition.

Planting holes for currants should be dug about 60 cm deep.

When replanting red currants, the planting hole must be made deeper, and drainage must be formed at its bottom from crushed stone, broken brick or expanded clay.

Replanting currants

Two to three weeks before transplanting, the currant bushes must be pruned, removing all excess. This is necessary so that the shoots that are important for fruiting do not experience difficulty in feeding after the bush is replanted and the volume of the roots becomes significantly smaller.

Before planting, currants must be trimmed

The old bush must be carefully dug up on all sides, loosened with a pitchfork, and the deep roots must be carefully chopped off with a shovel. Then take it out and carefully inspect it, removing roots and stems that are of poor quality. You don’t have to remove all the earth, but if you are just moving an old bush to a new place, then in general it’s better not to remove the lump of earth touch it, but try to preserve it. This way the root system is less damaged.

Before planting, you need to pour 1-2 buckets of water into the hole and wait until it is completely absorbed. Haste can lead to excessive shrinkage of the bush and, as a result, its improper development.

Half a bucket of humus or compost should also be poured into the bottom. It will be useful to sprinkle a handful or two of superphosphate. This fertilizer will help the currants get stronger before the onset of cold weather. Superphosphate will also ensure better plant growth next year.

When filling the roots, you need to carefully ensure that voids do not form in the hole, which can cause improper development of the root system. To prevent such a nuisance, it is recommended to shake the bush periodically during the filling process.